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Hi, you're in the Archives, October 2012 - Part 1 |
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October 12, 2012 |
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Tasting the new Talisker 35 and another one. Make that two. |
Yes that’s just the same headline as yesterday’s. We’re more into whisky than into headlines. And just like yesterday, we’ll have two ‘opponents’ to the new 35, an official and an undisclosed indie ‘distilled on the Isle of Skye’. Can’t be Bladnoch, don’t you agree? |
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Talisker 12 yo (45.8%, OB for Friends of Classic Malts, European Oak, 21500 bottles, 2007)  We could have tried a recent batch of our beloved 10 but this older 12 was waiting in my sample library… It was issued to celebrate the 10 years of the Friends. Colour: full gold. Nose: not an easy one to pin down, it keeps changing, going from a briny peatiness to red berries and other slightly winey aromas (peonies). There’s also something slightly soapy and violety, but it keeps improving after a few seconds (right, minutes), becoming more and more coastal (campfire on the beach). The spirit finally defeats the sherry, which makes me more than happy in this context. Anyway, I’m not too fond of this nose… Mouth: it’s very good but the violety touches are back, which gives the whole a whacky kind of profile, somewhat ala Bowmore 1985. Nothing excessive though, the rest is quite beautiful, rightly briny and smoky. Smoked and salted grenadine. Finish: medium long, more on seawater and blackcurrants. Comments: again, I’m not too much into this kind of ‘balance’ but that’s very personal. Other MMs liked this baby a lot, I’ve seen scores ranging from 85 to 88. SGP:545 - 78 points. |
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Cuillins Dew 13 yo 1992/2005 (55.3%, Whisky Circle Pinzgau, cask #3196)  Colour: white wine. Nose: interestingly, this baby’s both raw and rough and, on the other hand, chiselled, crystal-clean, on lime juice and fresh oysters. Zing! If there ever was a coastal malt, it’s this one. The smoke isn’t too big so far. With water: some kind of extreme lemon juice, very sauvignony (geeee…) Wee farmyardy notes as well. Mouth (neat): wooh! Pure lemon juice, salt, pepper and liquid smoke. Quite extreme, it reminds me of an old 8yo by Milroy’s, I don’t think I ever posted tasting notes for that one. Sharp as a blade, as they say. With water: becomes oily, almost thick, syrupy. Smoke and lemon syrup, that is. Perfect if you like this style as much as I do. Finish: very long, with Talisker’s pepper kicking in. Works well with lemon, doesn’t it. Some salt playing with your tongue and your lips. Comments: there aren’t many similar Taliskers around. I doubt our Pinzgauer friends still have some bottles left but if they do… It’s a miracle. SGP:456 - 90 points. (I had tried this a few years ago already and liked it a notch less. Maybe further breathing improved it). |
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Talisker 35 yo 1977/2012 (54.6%, OB, 3090 bottles) After the rare and quite fabulous 34yo 1975 for Asia from last year, here’s a 35! Colour: gold. Nose: hey hey, this one really reminds me of the older ones from the early 1950s (G&M’s), with this very peculiar combination of soft almondy touches (between marzipan and linseed oil) and a sooty smokiness plus notes of quince jelly, plums, tangerines and leather cream. Soft and as complex as an old Montrachet (if I may say so, sorry about all these wine references but its quicker and easier). With water: s.t.u.n.n.i.n.g. It’s hard to imagine a nicer nose, unless you’re fiercely against peat, zesty tropical fruits and some kind of almond(-iness). Mouth (neat): ah yes! Many old peaters tend to lose their, well, peat when becoming older but that’s not the case here, not at all. So it’s very peaty and medicinal, with a perfect balance, a perfect mouth feel and a perfect fruitiness, blending passion fruits and lemons. Extremely good – but that was to be expected. Great feeling of fullness, it’s all perfectly integrated, like in Mona Lisa’s portrait. More oomph on the palate than on the nose (not Mona Lisa’s). With water: please call our friends from the anti-maltoporn brigade! Finish: maybe not the longest but the freshness is impressive. Oysters, pepper and lemon, the perfect combo. Smoked fish in the aftertaste. Comments: punters like me will probably talk more about the new Port Ellen, the new Brora and the new Lagavulin, but this Talisker has got this je ne sais quoi that the others don’t quite have, or have to a lesser degree. Maybe that’s what we could call ‘an elegant fullness’? SGP:566 - 94 points. |
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McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
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October 11, 2012 |
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Tasting the new Lagavulin 21 and another one. Make that two. |
It’s the turn of the new Lagavulin 21 today. As far as sparring partners are concerned, I thought we could have one of the latest batches of the well-known 16s, as well as an undisclosed one from the times when Lagavulin was still easily available at indies’ (albeit as ‘unknown’ single malts). |
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Lagavulin 16 yo (43%, OB, +/- 2012) It appears that I haven’t written notes for the 16 since 2009. A shame, I tell you. Colour: gold. Nose: we’ll do this quick. I think it’s rather less on liquorice, rubber, tar and raisins than older batches, and rather more on fresher and slightly cleaner coastal notes, soot, earth and ashes. In short, it’s rather cleaner and a little less ‘big and fat’. The whole remains wonderful. Oh, and there’s always bags of fresh walnuts. Mouth: yet again, I feel it’s a tad lighter than previous batches, less mouth coating, but also more elegant and refined. Black olives and brine, kippers, shellfish, smoked tea, liquorice allsorts and a little marzipan. Seville oranges. Finish: rather long, saltier, with a great bitterish/waxy aftertaste. Comments: still the one I’m taking when I’m in a bar and when the range isn’t the widest. It never lets you down. I feel it’s becoming cleaner and more vibrant year after year (or is it me? ;-)). SGP:357 - 90 points. |
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Fuaran Ile 1990/2003 (58%, Ian McLeod, cask #6489, 310 bottles) There were many casks at the time, both at 46% and at CS. This is a CS version, obviously. Lagavulin exegetes say it was the best one, let’s see. Colour: white wine. Nose: oooh yesss! It’s an extremely straightforward Lagavulin, maybe a tad rough at times but extremely satisfying. Brine, seawater, fresh cardamom, then ham and a rather massive peat. Also pencil leads, kerosene and bags of green apples. Naked and beautiful. With water (while it becomes as cloudy as the cloudiest clouds): stays on the same notes, plus maybe a little more apple skins. Ultra-clean. Mouth (neat): triple-bang! Nothing too complicated thus far but the combo works beautifully. Lemon juice with a little cane syrup, brine and smoke. Does little but does it perfectly well. With water: becomes a little Ardbeggian, funnily enough. More tar and liquorice. Finish: very long, with more pepper as often. Salt, marzipan and overripe apples in the aftertaste. Comments: a great ‘natural’ L********, quite different from the official 12 CS (less medicinal and earthy). Same very high quality. SGP:357 - 90 points. |
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Lagavulin 21 yo 1991/2012 (52%, OB, sherry, 2772 bottles) Everybody remembers the massive 21yo 1985, an absolute wonder that had everything in my opinion. So… Colour: pale amber. Nose: I think it’s a gentler, cleaner, more civilised version w.r.t. the old 21. The sherry isn’t as big and there are many rather refined and elegant herbal notes instead, starting with mint, pine resin and camphor. It’s after two or three minutes that the complexity of it all starts to be more obvious, with first many dried fruits (first raisins, then maybe sliced apples) and bags of tiny phenolic notes such as lamp oil, putty, carbolineum, anti-rust paint and just a little gunpowder. Leather polish. With water: it’s the tobacco that comes out. Lit cigarettes, shoe polish and sultanas. Dates spirit (some kind of arrak). Mouth (neat): once again, it’s probably not as thick and heavy as the older 21. We’re rather more on tobacco, lemon marmalade and pepper at first sips, with some bitter herbs in the background. Bitters, ginger… It’s even quite smooth, with a slightly syrupy honeyness. Cloves, juniper berries… It’s also fairly spicy indeed. With water: more, much more dark chocolate and pepper, as well as quite some toffee and ‘dry’ Demerara sugar. Becomes drier and fino-ish. Finish: long, on tobacco, walnuts, chocolate, coffee and, to make it more ‘coastal’, something such as samphires. Comments: not as ‘in-your-face’ as the old one, rather less impressive in a way, more civilised and, as expected, of very high quality. Also more directly linked to the 16yo than the previous one. SGP:467 - 91 points. |
(With thanks to Konstantin) |
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October 10, 2012 |
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Tasting the new Brora 35 and partners |
Good good good, Diageo’s new special releases are out and I’ve been wondering whether I should rather taste the four big peaters together (Port Ellen 12th, Lagavulin 21, Talisker 35 and Brora 35) or taste each of them separately, ‘against’ some worthy sparring partners from the same distilleries. I’ve chosen the second set-up, WF’s usual favourite, for the sake of comparison (which is reason with whisky, isn’t it). So today it’s going to be the Brora, expect the others in the coming days… |
One of the big questions w.r.t. these official Broras is whether they’re single vintages or not. I don’t have the answer but maybe we could try to find out, by first tasting two emblematic vintages as aperitifs, that is to say a moderately peated 1975 and a very peated 1972, both at low, easier strengths. I agree, a 35yo could also contain some 1976 or 1977, but I haven’t got any at hand just now. Tell me about a whisky blogger… |
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Brora 25 yo 1975/2001 (43%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, Autumn-Winter)  I have tried some 1974, 1976 and 1977 by Douglas Laing but never a 1975. Now’s the time, Charlie. Colour: straw. Nose: I think we’ve never come this close to a ‘peated Clynelish’. That means that there’s a lot of peat smoke (more than in the official 1975s Rare Malts) and a lot of wax, the whole being very dry, very sooty, very ashy. Once you get used to the smoke, many tinier elements start to step in, such as burning grass (right, smoke again), huge notes of high-end green tea, beer and quite some cigar smoke. Smoky indeed! Some barleyish notes remain after 25 years. Mouth: sweeter now and less peaty. Good attack despite the low strength, good mouth feel and a profile that’s rather on some kind of smoky apple juice. Quite some lemon after that, a little barley sugar, herbal liqueurs and then more smoked tea (Lapsang souchong) before a straighter smokiness kicks in again. Smoked fish. A bit less entrancing than on the nose but still quite excellent. Finish: long and more and more peppery. Smoke, pepper and apple juice. Comments: it may not be one of the Wonders of Sutherland but it’s still a very fine dram. I think the palate was slightly ‘less good’ than the nose. SGP:455 - 87 points. |
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Brora 1972/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Old map label) These Broras used to represent the best quality/ABV ratios around in my opinion (WF 92/93 for the ones that were bottled in 1992 and 1993 – still have to check the other ones). Colour: full gold. Nose: this is no whisky, it’s a very old vin jaune from Jura or one of the best finos. Amazing notes of old walnuts, apple skin, leather and then the expected smoke, 1972-style, except that there’s almost no farmy notes or even coastal ones. It’s almost like if you plunged your head into an old coal stove. Not a working one, mind you. Brilliant. Mouth: oh la la la la! Some kind of fortified Château-Chalon. Incredibly good. Smoked chartreuse, walnut liqueur, salted liquorice… What a glory, bigger than many malts at 60% vol. Thick ashes, pinesap, some kind of smoked raisins, wax, oysters, lemon… and more Château-Chalon. Stunning, quick, call the anti-maltoporn brigade! Finish: maybe the longest ‘40%’ ever. Utterly amazing, mesmerizingly satisfying (c’mon, S.) Comments: 17 years of bottle ageing may have done some good, but frankly, what a dram. Not too sure the new 35 will manage to beat this utter wonder, let’s see… SGP:468 - 95 points (almost 96!) |
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Brora 35 yo (48.1%, OB, 1566 bottles, 2012) This is obviously the new one. No blah, blah, blah, let’s try it. Colour: gold. Nose: first questions tackled first, no it’s not too woody. In fact, it’s not woody at all at this point. Second, yes it’s rather an ‘early’ Brora and in truth, it sits right between the 1975 and the 1972 as far as profiles are concerned. That means that it’s pretty smokier than last year’s 32yo (which was quite smoky already) and very phenolic, although it’s obviously lighter and kind of ‘easier’ than the various 1972s Rare Malts. Are you following me? What Else? Notes of vin jaune again, soot, petrol, flints, then whiffs of fish (think tinned sardines), putty, plasticine, maybe a little fresh butter, wax… Tends to sauvignonise (hey?) a bit after a few minutes, which can’t be bad news as far as its zestiness and liveliness are concerned. Also a little herbs (fresh coriander, eucalyptus, mint) and wee notes of vegetables (turnips? Parsnips? Celeriac?) I could go on and on, better stop now. Drop water. Mouth: well, the oak’s a little more obvious now, especially after the superlative 1972, and the smoke’s also lighter while there are rather more crystallised fruits and other rounder notes, the whole being rather more 1975+ than ‘1972’. Well, that was true for a good 30 seconds but the Broraness never stops growing after that, the whole becoming more and more complex. I get bitter oranges, touches of aniseed, camphor, ashes, hints of tropical fruits (mainly passion fruits and mangos, also lemon), kippers… all that on a thick layer of ashes and tars that make it so, well, Brora. What’s sure is that it’s not tired at all despite the 35 years and the –relatively – lower strength. In my experience, that wouldn’t happen at all the other peaters’. Finish: long, sappy, smoky, drier now. Tannic touches. Comments: brilliant again, although it may not totally reach the astounding level of the best ‘pure’ 1972s. But more about the 1972s in the coming months… (shhh!) SGP:466 - 94 points. |
 Check the index of all Brora I've tasted so far
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October 9, 2012 |
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Macallan ‘Gold’ (40%, OB, 2012)  No more age statement on this new entry-level Macallan but on the other hand, it’s fully matured in sherry casks from Jerez (as indeed and as you may well know, not all sherry casks come straight from Spain). The new labels are also more and more ‘Buckingham Palace’ (I mean, its gift shop). Colour: pale gold. Nose: do not expect a big sherriness such as in the older tens or twelves from the 1990s or early 2000s, it’s rather a slightly grainy/malty whisky at first nosing. Having said that, there’s also very nice notes of fresh oranges and vetiver, with something clearly perfumy but in a very nice way. Green oranges (or Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès, baby). In short, a fresh, interesting nose. Mouth: much old style sherry on the palate, with raisins and honeydew, Demerara sugar, cornflakes… And then we’re back to oranges, oriental pastries (with a lot of orange blossom water) and a little marzipan. Works very well. Finish: medium long, honeyed, with a little clove and carvi in the aftertaste. Comments: interestingly, it does not feel like only 40% vol. I think it’s a rather perfect access-category malt whisky, people used to middle to top-range blends will not feel disoriented. I like it better than the 12yo ‘Fine Oak’. SGP:541 – 81 points. |
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Macallan 1991/2012 (45%, Samaroli, cask #4139)  The old labels are back! Colour: white wine. Nose: very fresh, with very little oak influence and rather a full bag of gooseberries, redcurrants and then a combination of ripe apples, soaked barley and sweetened porridge. As ‘natural’ and youthful as it gets. Oh, and whiffs of both coal and wood smoke. Mouth: sweet and very ‘natural’ again, on just the same flavours plus touches of aniseed. Tinned fruits (pears, papayas, apricots). Nice and clean. Finish: medium long, a little more on cider apples and sweet beer. Walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: a fine example of a very naked Macallan. SGP:441 - 83 points. |
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October 8, 2012 |
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Tasting another bunch of Caol Ila |
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Caol Ila 14 yo ‘Unpeated Style’ (59.3%, OB, 2012) The newer batch of the famous ‘Highlands Caol Ila’, now a 14 years old after the 8s, the 10 and the 12s and ex-European oak this time. Colour: pale gold. Nose: once again, just like with the younger batches from the previous years, there is a little peat but much less than in the ‘Islay’ Caol Ilas. It’s rather a kind of mineral Williams pears eau de vie at first nosing, with some smoke and vanilla, then there’s rather notes of sponge cake, vanilla fudge and ‘light’ sultanas as well as more and more lemon (that feeling of good limoncello). With water: almost no peat left and, I must say, not a lot of sherry. Resembles a lightish/youngish Seysider of good quality. Mouth (neat): very big, very powerful, even a tad prickly (peppered lemon juice). Less peat this time, and more cakes. Lemon, plums, oranges, then lavender honey and quite some black pepper again. With water: sweet, rounded and very easy this time. Cranberry and gooseberry juices plus a little barley water and cider (Strongbow rather than artisanal cider). Finish: medium long, clean, fruity, easy. Comments: don’t expect a sherry monster! I think I enjoyed last year’s cleaner and zestier 12 a little better. SGP:642 – 84 points. |
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Caol Ila 19 yo (55.9%, The Whisky Exchange, 2012)  Another ‘tribute to the old officials’ bottling by TWE. This baby was just introduced at The Whisky Show London. Colour: white wine. Nose: textbook, ultra-classic mineral Caol Ila. Some kind of smoked cocktail made out of oyster and lemon juices. Also traces of exhaust fumes and burnt rubber, ‘in a good way’. With water: it’s its medicinal side that comes to the front, with almost a Laphroaigness. Also more ashes and soot (coal stove). Mouth (neat): exactly what happened on the nose, plus touches of green olives. So flints, oysters, lemon and ‘good’ rubber (yet it’s not rubbery at all, well, I know what I’m trying to say). Some wax and ashes as well, maybe one or two capers… (briny and a little sour, works very well). With water: all perfect. Smoked and salted lemon juice. Oysters and touches of chilli sauce. Rocks. Finish: long, very zesty, very fresh. Comments: still youngish but already great. Caol Ila is a good example of a name that’s widely available and almost always excellent. Very good value. SGP:357 - 88 points. |
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Caol Ila 16 yo 1995/2012 (52.2%, Whisky-Doris, bourbon hogshead, cask #9814, 310 bottles) Colour: white wine. Nose: again a classy, relatively narrow but crystal-clean nose. Lemon, ashes, peat smoke and seawater, why ask for more, I’m asking you. With water: not much development but everything was there in the first place. Maybe it got a little more medicinal (antiseptic). Mouth (neat): perfect earthy/rooty start. A lot of gentian, brine, smoked almonds and marzipan plus the usual ashy smoke (or smoky ashes, as you like). With water: more of all that, just easier to quaff. A little more salt, actually. Finish: long, clean, zesty and salty. And earthy. Comments: some of these batches can be a little too sweet for my tastes but it’s not the case at all this time. SGP:347 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 1981/2012 (51.3%, Whisky-Fässle, bourbon hogshead) This little baby was bottled for the Whiskystammtisch Goldener Rebstock. Sounds pleasantly German doesn’t it. Colour: straw. Nose: a rather wild one, extremely briny, starting to show great signs of aging including these sooty/tarry notes that were to be found in 1960s Caol Ila. Waxed paper, fresh putty, menthol… Lovable. With water: fresh tree bark, sea water, oysters… Mouth (neat): woahh, this is goo… I mean, to my liking. Strong herbal notes, kippers, very big peat, salted anchovies, cider and menthol, then more lemon liqueur. It’s really a big, very peaty one. With water: purfekt. Dry, leafy, very peaty, almondy, kippery… Finish: it’s the lemon that strikes back but the brine hasn’t said its last word, especially in the aftertaste. Marzipan. Comments: as good as it gets, almost worth 91 in my book. Well selected, Stammtisch! SGP:457 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 1982/2012 (51.2%, Archives, bourbon hogshead, cask #758, 207 bottles) Colour: straw. Nose: funnily enough, 1982 isn’t 1981 – not saying vintages mean much in whisky of course. The lemon is louder in this one, the grass as well, it’s sort of narrower and ‘younger’, less smoky too… But kippers and anchovies are there so let’s add water. With water: whiffs of wet newspapers (wet iPads won’t work, what shall we do?) Mouth (neat): big and creamy mouth feel and truckloads of lemons and pink grapefruits. It’s not particularly complex but what a wonderful, err, compactness! Simplicity can be an asset, after all… With water: the ashy and putty-like side grows bigger. Finish: long, clean, perfect. Brine and lemon and bitter almonds. Comments: it’s very different from the 1981 (no, not all Caol Ilas are the same, not at all!) but I just couldn’t tell you which one I liked best. That would change every 30 seconds. SGP:356 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 1993/2012 (56.1%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 12037, 225 bottles) A sherry cask is quite unusual with recent Caol Ilas, it’s interesting… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s funny how sherry will change Caol Ila’s style, although I’m not familiar with 1993. It gives it a ‘Laphroaigness’, that is to say something more medicinal, between bandages and camphor, plus touches of rubber on top of all that. Other than that, it’s pretty sweet and fruity, with ripe plums and apricots. Sultanas. With water: even more medicinal and a little more costal (oysters). Less sweetness but there’s a feeling of barbecued marshmallows (don’t shoot!). Mouth (neat): oh yes this is unusual. Creamier, oilier, fattier than the usual CIs, with some honey and maple syrup that do go well with the peat. Wheelbarrows of marzipan, citrons, brown sugar… With water: truly excellent now. More vanilla, plums, maple syrup… It’s as if the sherry cask behaved like a bourbon barrel at this point. Finish: long and much, much saltier. Comments: there are so many Caol Ilas around – many excellent, a ‘different’ one is always welcome. I really like it a lot. SGP:557 - 88 points. |
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Caol Ila 28 yo 1984/2012 (53.5%, The Whisky Agency, bourbon hogshead, 254 bottles) Colour: straw. Nose: textbook crystalline, mineral, ashy peat, then a rather long development with the expected brine, cut apples, leaves, lemon juice and just touches of menthol. Flawless and lovely so far. With water: perfect briny peat and just 1cm3 of manure, which I like. Seashells. Mouth (neat): some cane syrup then a sharper, grassy peat. Unusual notes of Zwetschke spirit (plums), that came unexpected but it works. Other than that, we have the usual ashy lemons and smoked oysters. With water: peat and seashells up, and grass even more. Apple peelings. Pleasant bitterness. Finish: long and grassy, then very salty. Salted chlorophyll? Comments: this baby never stops improving with water. Another excellent one, we’re very close to the 90 points. SGP:366 – 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 30 yo 1980/2011 (59.4%, Douglas Laing, Old & Rare, refill hogshead, 270 bottles) High strength at 30 years of age, was this matured in Kentucky? (S., drop it). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s one of these old Caol Ilas that went toward marzipan and walnuts, soot and leather polish, fresh butter and Barbour grease. And fresh paint. Lovely nose, just a bit strong. So, with water: absolutely superb, in the style of the ‘older old Caol Ilas’. There are whiffs of muddy dogs (yeah, a variant of our beloved wet dogs – I’m sorry, dogs), damp newspapers, creosote, some seawater, walnut wine, more fresh paint (any colour)… Mouth (neat): fantastic. Some kind of smoked lemon liqueur, with of course a briny side and again quite some walnuts and a little putty. Cigar ashes, fresh walnut skin… With water: ideal. More lemon, more tangerines and a little more salt. And marzipan. And oysters. And salted liquorice. Finish: not the longest but it’s all very elegant. Lemon, salt and putty. Comments: it’s rather in the style of the CIs that were distilled 10 or 15 years before. An adorable old Caol Ila that love water. Well, water is obligatory. SGP:456 - 92 points. |
I think we just tried our 350th Caol Ila for whiskyfun. Not that there’s anything to be proud of, mind you! |
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Today: JAZZ. Performer: Don Cherry. Track: Universal Mother (from the controversially comlmercial album Here & Now, 1976). Please buy Don Cherry's music! |
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October 5, 2012 |
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A short Caroni verticale. Rum again. |
Caroni used to be a Trinidadian distillery that was very famous for its very heavy rums. It stopped distilling in 2000 (other sources say in 2002, not too sure). Caroni were using both columns and pot stills, not too sure if the results were then blended prior to filling the casks or not. |
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Caroni 12 yo 2000/2012 (50%, Velier) 2000 was the last vintage at Caroni. This baby was entirely aged in Trinidad, then shipped to Scotland for bottling. I like the old label a lot. Colour: full gold. Nose: starts fairly smoky, with some toasted bread, gingerbread and then there's more spicy oak, cedar wood, cinnamon, touches of beef stock, Grand-Marnier… It's not that heavy and globally rather elegant. After a few minutes, there's also a little tar coming through. Natural rubber. With water: perfect! Great smokiness, then moss, fern and fresh mint. Soot. Mouth (neat): rich, coating, sweet, toasted and ridden with dried fruits. Bananas flambéed, Corinthian raisins, molasses, dark pipe tobacco… In the background, that very unusual smokiness again. Eucalyptus wood fire? With water: gets a little easier, sweeter and rounder. The oak comes out more as well, as (almost) always. Finish: long, mentholated, phenolic. I love this style. Comments: rum for us malt drinkers. Loved the smoky part. SGP:652 - 88 points. |
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Caroni 15 yo 1997/2012 (52.1%, The Whisky Agency & The Nectar, 324 bottles) Colour: full gold. Nose: were' pretty much in the style of the 12yo, except that this one is even smokier and toasted. A notch meatier as well, with also hints of camphor and old roses, patchouli... Very nice nose. With water: very nice notes of ham, chicken bouillon, old books, rather coal smoke this time… Mouth (neat): akin to the 12 once again but with less smoky stuff and rather more spices, especially black pepper, ginger and even touches of wasabi. Chillies. Big mouth! ;-) With water: orange zests, grass and herbs. Carvi, pepper… Lovely spiciness. Finish: long, rather grassy. Tarry and liquoricy aftertaste. Comments: same very high qualitry as in the 12, no need to come up with a different score. Ah, Caroni! SGP:752 - 88 points. |
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Caroni 20 yo 1992/2012 (60.21%, Velier, 1,621 bottles) This one was aged in Trinidad from 1992 to 2008, then in Guyana until this year. Colour: amber. Nose: more closed, less aromatic than the younger ones but that may come from the higher strength. I get quite of wax and raisins, though… And less wood smoke. A little butter. With water: superlative! Mainly sultanas and cough syrup, then loads of other dried fruits. Wonderful, slightly medicinal in fact. Mouth (neat): extremely rich, thick, mentholated, very extractive. Oils, spices, greases and other stuff from the wood on top of bags of overripe bananas and pineapples. Very heavy rum, you have to like that. I do. With water: wunderbar concentration. Oranges, liqueurs, dried fruits, herbs, spices, liquorice… and more liquorice. Yes, it's got everything. Finish: pretty endless, on the same notes. Leaves your palate amazingly clean, which doesn't happen very often with these heavy rums. Comments: I already had some superb 1992 Caronis but I think this one is even better. Impressive spirit. SGP:761 - 90 points. |
Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far |
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Today: ROCK AND ROLL. Performer: French rocker Eddy Mitchell. Track: C'est Un Rocker. Please visit Eddy Mitchell's website and buy his music! |
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October 4, 2012 |
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Tasting a bunch of new sherried Speysiders |
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Glenburgie 1990/2012 (50%, Gordon & MacPhail Exclusive for Symposion, Sweden, cask #12517, 560 bottles) Colour: amber. Nose: a rich, meaty sherry at first nosing, with large portions of fruitcake mixed with pipe tobacco and beef jerky. Quite some tar as well, a just opened pack of liquorice rolls and also hints of bacon. After a few minutes: more old wine, cellar, some mustiness, all quite beautiful. With water: even meatier. Ham and chicken bouillon (with parsley!) Mouth (neat): excellent attack, very old style and, in a way, very ‘old sherried Speysider from G&M’s’. Yes, no wonder, although this baby isn’t very old. Then a feeling of cedar wood, more tobacco, black Corinthian raisins, prunes, orange zests, chocolate… and always a little bacon. With water: a notch drier, the oak got louder and rougher but it’s all under control. Finish: long and very chocolaty. More liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: classic and very great first fill sherry, very old style. SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Glenlivet 14 yo 1997/2012 (55.3%, Signatory for La Maison du Whisky, oloroso sherry butt, cask #123533, 514 bottles) Colour: amber. Nose: much similar to the Glenburgie, only drier and rather more on dried mushrooms and leaves at first nosing. Musty as well, with some humus, wet clothes, some coal smoke… It’s only after two or three minutes that more dried fruits, raisins, prunes, come through. With water: fairly identical. Maybe a little more menthol, in fact. Mouth (neat): rich, punchy and much sweeter now. Slightly prickly or fizzy, with orange drops, Schweppes, then bags of cardamom and cloves. The citrusy part is quite lovely and really lifts the whole. A lot of bitter chocolate too. With water: becomes pleasantly syrupy. A blend of cough syrup, cane juice and melon liqueur. Finish: long, a notch greener but never tannic. Oranges and raisins in the aftertaste. Comments: simply another very good sherry monster, maybe just a tad less ‘wow’ than the Glenburgie. SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Glendronach ‘Cask Strength’ (54.8%, OB, batch 1, 2012) This is a brand new one and a vatting of oloroso and PX casks. I know Glendronach isn’t officially a Speysider but I think it does behave like a Speysider. Ahem. Colour: amber. Nose: … and yet a very similar profile, I wouldn’t say that the PX brought much more roundness and sweetness – so far. So a lot of dried fruits again, Corinthian raisins, rich tobacco, chocolate, bacon, mint… and quite some fresh walnuts as well (skins). With water: more leather, game and tobacco (cigar humidor) as well as whiffs of black truffles. Mouth (neat): now it’s sweeter, and quite unusual too. Oh, and rather brilliant. Starts quite nervous, on pink grapefruits and ginger tonic, before some beautiful notes of tangerine liqueur and gingerbread join in the dancing. Absolutely lovely. With water: more bitter oranges and more ‘greenness’ (herbs, chlorophyll) that go very well with this profile. Finish: long, creamy, not cloying at all. Great balance. More black raisins, cocoa powder and cardamom in the aftertaste. Comments: well, it seems that they did it again. Big yet impressively balanced. Not too sure about the price but it’ll probably be a bargain. SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Tamdhu 1988/2012 (52.3%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 10029, 209 bottles) Colour: deep gold. Nose: starts very much on tobacco, struck matches and gunpowder, as well as flints, rocks and clay. Vegetables, brake pads (not after the Nürburgring, mind you), leather... Very segmenting for sure, as they say. With water: gears toward truffles and even more mineral notes. Flint. Mouth (neat): the matches and gunpowder are there again, together with notes of ginger, limoncello and orange marmalade. Cinchona. With water: orange marmalade, ginger tonic, Alka Seltzer. Finish: medium long, with more ginger. Comments: it is sulphury, but then again, I believe sulphur isn’t a flaw as long as it’s not excessive (which depends on every taster’s detection threshold and taste). Not my cup of malt, though, but I know some aficionados will love it. SGP:361 - 78 points. |
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Glen Grant 58 yo 1953/2012 (47.9%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #2604) So many old wonders have already been bottled under this famous ‘book of kells’ label! Colour: dark amber. Nose: perfect nose, between honey, cough syrup, sultanas and sandalwood. Absolutely no signs of over-aging but as almost always, that may happen on the palate. Other aromas: myriads. Tobacco, ham, chocolate, Grand-Marnier, camphor, incense, raspberry jam, dates, peonies, blackcurrant jelly… and God knows what else. Let’s not tempt fate with water. Mouth: hurray, it does not start on plain oak or and an over-tannicity, rather on mint-flavoured tea and chocolate, not without a feeling of ‘After Eights’. More orange and lemon liqueurs after that, as well as many spices and herbs, including cardamom as often, eucalyptus, quite some cumin (another sign of old age or heavy oak in my experience but it’s not excessive here), rosemary, cloves, more chocolate… Finish: a few more tannins, which is normal. Becomes a tad greenish but it’s all alright. Some palo cortado in the aftertaste. Comments: another complex old Glen Grant by G&M that was filled in perfect wood. SGP:571 - 91 points. |
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September 2011 |
Favourite recent bottling:
Flaming Heart ‘4th Release’ (48,9%, Compass Box, 2012) - WF 91
Favourite older bottling:
Longrow 18 yo 1974/1992 (46%, Wilson & Morgan) - WF 94
Favourite bang for your buck bottling:
None in September |
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October 3, 2012 |
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Tasting two new and very unusual blends |
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The Entertainer (46%, Compass Box, blend, 1,000 bottles, 2012) Another beautiful Dada bottling by Compass Box, who seem to have hired both Picabia’s grandson and the Tiger Lillies’ lead singer. This is a Selfridges exclusive bottling, let’s see if the roar is on par with the look. Colour: gold. Nose: well in Compass Box’ style and far from most ‘commercial’ blends, with a fresh, clean and very coastal peat, then more antiseptic and herbal liqueur (Bénédictine). With such a good dose of peat, no grains have much to say and we won’t complain. So yeah, it’s some kind of peated Bénédictine or Chartreuse. Different, medicinal and very likable. Mouth: bang, the peat strikes first and leaves no prisoners. Technically a blend but as always with CB, it’s a blend that tastes like a malt. So, some kind of slightly sweetened and smoothened peater, with an earthiness, herbs and a little wax in the background (just a little). The peat does most of the talking and we won’t complain. Finish: long, smoky, peaty and grassy. A little salt in the aftertaste. Comments: all very good, much peatier than, say Great King St. I cannot not feel sorry for Selfridges’ patrons if they aren’t too much into peat, they’ll be surprised by this ‘little blend’. Ha ha ha. SGP:456 - 87 points. |
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Samaroli ‘Evolution 2012’ (45%, Samaroli, blended malt, cask #4, 2012) Samaroli reduce this series step by step over one year, like the best cognac houses do, and not in one go. This one is a ‘marriage’ of rare whiskies such as (fasten your seat belts) 1957 Mortlach, 1959 Springbank, 1964 Bruichladdich, 1967 Laphroaig, 1973 Longrow, 1971 Glen Garioch or 1988 Lagavulin (the youngest malt in the vatting), all whiskies in proportions of 3.5 to 5% each. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is very ‘antique’, it smells like the inside of an old wardrobe in an old attic in an old house (in an old country – maybe not). What’s very funny is to catch fleeting notes of Laphroaig, then Longrow, then old Glen Garioch, then old Laphroaig again, and so on, back and forth. All that is put together by some greatly old wood, not only oak, also fir or thuja. Also hints of fur (yeah, mink), roses, orange blossom water… Very special, very unusual. |
Mouth: soft and bizarre, in a good way. There’s something old (the old malts, obviously) and there’s something modern (the oak). I seem to feel the old peaters quite vividly (camphor, eucalyptus) but there’s also a layer of milk chocolate and orange marmalade plus a few ‘green’ spices, cardamom, some kind of light curry, a little fudge, green tea, then touches of kirsch… It’s all very complex, with good body. Tastes old and not too old at the same time. Finish: pretty long, with unexpected notes of strawberry jam. Comments: frankly, it’s excellent but I don’t quite understand why and how they have ‘married’ such old wonders that would have been instant hits on the market as singles. My guess is that they might have used old bottles (like Macallan already did) but anyway, who cares, it’s excellent. SGP:454 - 90 points. |
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October 2, 2012 |
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Tasting two glorious 1983 Karuizawa
plus an aperitif |
And the aperitif will be Asama, a vatting of Karuizawa 1999 and 2000 (not far from being the last vintages if I’m not mistaken) |
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Asama (46%, OB, Karuizawa 1999+2000, +/-2012) Colour: gold. Nose: a tad raw and winey at first nosing, with some kirsch, mushrooms, and some kind of rancio (reminds me of some Rivesaltes, which also gives it a cognacqy side). Other than that there’s quite some tobacco and cedar wood as well as walnuts. Old wooden wardrobe, charcoal... Mouth: a lot of brown sugar and corn syrup at first sipping, then more fudge and toffee, with very nice notes of earl grey tea in the background. Perfect mouth feel. Goes on with a little orange and ginger liqueurs as well as touches of verbena (or rather the liqueur they make in Le Puy, called Verveine du Velay). Finish: long, creamy, fresh, with both more oranges and more mint and even a little strawberry. Comments: a kind of surprise, some could have thought they would have used casks that weren’t fit for bottling as single casks for this. Well, I think it’s excellent, both very drinkable and intriguingly complex. We’re far from the old dodgy OBs by the former owners. SGP:662 - 87 points. |
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Karuizawa 28 yo 1983/2012 (57.2%, OB, Noh Whisky, sherry butt, cask #7576, 571 bottles) Fun that they put a photograph of this humble taster aboud to try an old Karuizawa on the label ;-). Colour: dark amber. Nose: we’re roughly in the same category as the older ones from two or three years ago (1967 and such). That is to say that it’s ridden with incense, sandalwood, pipe tobacco and crème de menthe at first nosing, just before a massive combination of chocolate, prunes, coffee, peonies, eucalyptus and dried beef (Grisons meat) starts to strike. With water: figs and dates galore! And raisins, leather cream, old balsamic vinegar, almond oil… Truly wonderful. Mouth (neat): exceptional! Sure it’s a tad bitter and very ‘extractive’ (Jaegermeister) at very first sips, but the richness and the complexity are astounding, especially since the whole is also quite nervous (lemon) and anything but too thick – so it’s not cloying at all. The best pipe tobaccos. Menthol. With water: blimey, there isn’t the tiniest flaw in there, although it becomes a notch narrower with water. Maybe… Finish: long, fruity, jammy, spicy. Touches of green oak in the aftertaste, that’s were this baby’s maybe a little less stunning and loses one or two points. Comments: these babies are pretty unbeatable. Both massive and very elegant whiskies, not too sure Scotland can beat them fair and square. SGP:662 - 93 points. |
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Karuizawa 1983/2012 (62.1%, OB for La Maison du Whisky, cask #8597, 262 bottles) Colour: full gold. Nose: this is stunning. Far from the sherry monsters, it’s rather a marvellous blend of Virginia tobacco, dried apricots, quince jelly, beeswax, linseed oil and just touches of old books. Vanilla pods. With water: yaaay! Absolutely wonderful, almondy, waxy, phenolic, resinous, mentholated… And quite medicinal, but not in an Islay way. And a great earthiness in the background. In truth, there’s something bourbonny, in a great way. Mouth (neat): extremely creamy and superbly herbal. Warning, it’s quite extreme in fact, with some very strong cumin, mint, juniper and cinnamon, but it's, well, stunning. Also something like lemon-flavoured marzipan. Eucalyptus Lozenges, thyme. With water: a white-oakiness comes out a little more, with more sweet ginger and a little encaustic. Finish: long, lemony. Cinnamon, nutmeg, more lemon-flavoured marzipan and touches of limoncello. A little curry in the aftertaste. Strong tea as well in the aftertaste. Comments: the oak became a little louder with water, this one was ahead of the Noh on the nose but I liked that one’s palate a little better because the oak was less obvious. Anyway, great, great drams again! (how do you say dram in Japanese?) SGP:562 - 92 points. |
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October 1, 2012 |
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BW1 (52.9%, Specialty Drinks, Elements of Islay, 2012) It’s the first B*w**** in the Elements of Islay series. Colour: straw. Nose: we’re on a lot on motor oil and definitely on whiffs of car engine at first nosing, just before more brine, raw wool, seaweed and fresh walnuts come through. Also paraffin, white truffles, grapefruits and a bag of salt/rocks. With water: it’s the peated barley that got louder. Kiln smoke, flint, wet wool, soot… Mouth (neat): excellent attack, nervous, perfectly simple, lemony, very zesty, sweet, fruity and only slightly salty. Some butter cream and just touches of Williams pears, with the peat and some pepper roaring in the background – but only in the background. Dangerously drinkable! With water: one could quaff lethal doses of this. Finish: rather long, saltier now. Comments: maybe I’m not a total fan of the nose but the palate is wonderful. SGP:446 - 87 points. |
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Bowmore 15 yo 1997/2012 (53.9%, The Whisky Agency, bourbon barrel, 228 bottles) Colour: white wine. Nose: this one’s completely different from the BW1, that is to say much, and I mean much more on sauvignon blanc and gentian spirit (I’m not making this up, it reeks of gentian). Other than that, there’s a little vanilla custard, chalk, oysters and just touches of fennel or wild carrot tops. Maybe a little sake as well, seawater. With water: insanely gentiany. And verbena, wormwood, other herbs… I love it but it’s very personal – yup, as always. Mouth (neat): we’re much closer to the BW1 but this is a tad less fruity and citrusy, and rather saltier and, again, more on earth and roots (which I love). Did I mention gentian? With water: more lemon, an immense zestiness and quite some salt. Tequila paf. Finish: long, with more grapefruits. Slightly hot aftertaste (pepper) but there are nice touches of liquorice allsorts – should you like that. Comments: we’re approaching perfection. This after five more years, aahh… SGP:447 - 89 points. |
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Bowmore 10 yo ‘Tempest’ (55.1%, OB, first fill bourbon, batch #4, 2012) I’ve loved all the three previous batches; very clever use of fresh American oak. Colour: straw. Nose: yeah, first fill bourbon. In truth, it’s a little disturbing right after the ‘natural’ ones, because of these pretty heavy whiffs of vanilla pods and grated coconut, and maybe also because the Bowmoreness is now minimal, with little coastal notes and a slightly subdued peat smoke, but on the other hand, there are also beautiful notes of fresh mint, lemon balm, citrons and grapefruits. Let’s say the jury’s still out at this point. With water: sweet oak all over the place, which makes it a little liqueurish. Mouth (neat): very creamy, with a sweet and oily mouth feel – typical fresh American oak again. So some coconut again, sweetened herbal teas, angelica, crystallised ginger and plain ginger liqueur. ‘Engineered’ but lovely – or the other way ‘round. With water: becomes a tad too oaky (plankish) now. Finish: long, rather gingery. Comments: excellent but maybe this new batch of Tempest became a little too sweet, and not enough ‘Bowmore’ w.r.t. the previous ones. A little too much newish oak this time? Are we touching the limits? Just a personal feeling… SGP:656 - 86 points. |
Good, let’s try some older Bowmore now… |
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Bowmore 1974/2012 (51.8%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist#2, cask #3841, 150 bottles) I’ve tried many vintages of Bowmore, but I believe it’s the first time I come across a 1974. This should be interesting, will it be more ‘early 1970s’ (i.e. excellent) or rather late 1970s (sometimes quite poor)? Colour: gold. Nose: hmm… hard to say. There are these slightly unlikely notes such as ‘new plastic pouch’ as well as quite some porridge and, maybe, tiny-wee ideas of baby vomit. A little cabbage too, new tyres, ink (newspaper of the day)… On the other hand, some tropical fruits from the earlier vintages do remain, such as mangos and grapefruits. A little undefined so far, I’d say, although it tends to improve quite a lot with more breathing. With water: rather nicer. More farmy notes, a little manure, cow stable, a little seaweed. Mouth (neat): definitely better at first sips, with many more fruits, grapefruits, citrons, some lemon balm, honeysuckle honey, then more cough lozenges, smoked tea, pine tar liqueur… Having said that, it tends to become much drier over time. With water: becomes a little more briny and rather more medicinal at the same time. Finish: not very long, more on smoked tea and brine. Dry and slightly sour aftertaste. Comments: let’s put it this way, it’s an old Bowmore and I think old Bowmores ought to be respected. SGP:454 - 80 points. |
| PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
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Best
malts I had these weeks - 90+
points only - alphabetical:
Brora 1972/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Old map label)
Brora 35 yo (48.7%, OB, 1566 bottles, 2012)
Caol Ila 1982/2012 (51.2%, Archives, bourbon hogshead, cask #758, 207 bottles)
Caol Ila 1981/2012 (51.3%, Whisky-Fässle, bourbon hogshead)
Caol Ila 30 yo 1980/2011 (59.4%, Douglas Laing, Old & Rare, refill hogshead, 270 bottles)
Caroni 20 yo 1992/2012 (60.21%, Velier, 1,621 bottles)
Cuillins Dew 13 yo 1992/2005 (55.3%, Whisky Circle Pinzgau, cask #3196)
Fuaran Ile 1990/2003 (58%, Ian McLeod, cask #6489, 310 bottles)
Glendronach ‘Cask Strength’ (54.8%, OB, batch 1, 2012)
Glen Grant 58 yo 1953/2012 (47.9%, Gordon & MacPhail for LMDW, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #2604)
Karuizawa 1983/2012 (62.1%, OB for La Maison du Whisky, cask #8597, 262 bottles)
Karuizawa 28 yo 1983/2012 (57.2%, OB, Noh Whisky, sherry butt, cask #7576, 571 bottles)
Lagavulin 16 yo (43%, OB, +/- 2012)
Lagavulin 21 yo 1991/2012 (52%, OB, sherry, 2772 bottles)
Talisker 35 yo 1977/2012 (54.6%, OB, 3090 bottles)
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