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December 7, 2019 |
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Angus's Corner
From our casual Scottish correspondent
and guest taster Angus MacRaild |
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Mixed malts:
Fettercairn,
Benrinnes
& Glentauchers |
| A quick visit to some more left field distilleries today. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo (40%, OB, 2019) 
I’m aware Serge tried these quite recently, but I have a solo Fettercairn that is calling my name and I am more than a little curious myself. Colour: pale gold. Nose: Even at the rather miserly bottling strength this is still cries out ‘Fettercairn’ with these notes of mud, cheese rind, steel wool, mechanical oils, farmyard and root vegetables. It doesn’t sound pleasant I know, but there’s plenty of charm to admire here. Continues to develop with some rather nice notes of sunflower oil and various freshly bake breads. Mouth: a tad straighter than the nose might have suggested, although the arrival is still rather fatty and all on copper, metal polishes, turnips and touches of caraway and muesli. Some kind of fermented green tea perhaps? Finish: Medium and back to these various notes of lamp oil, pumpernickel, tea and roast root vegetables. Comments: Seriously, Fettercairn, 40%? I can’t help but feel this stubbornly bewildering yet undeniably charismatic make would benefit hugely from a bit more oomph.
SGP: 451 - 79 points. |
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Fettercairn 28 yo (42%, OB, 2018)
Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a very pleasing syrupyness about this one initially, with a light waxiness and exotic note to boot. Although you still get wee whispers of the more upfront unusualness of the 12yo in the form of damp grains, cow shed, puddle water, bitter cereals and metal polish. Again a rather vegetal aspect too. Mouth: again this feeling of damp grains, but also tea leaves, fresh mint, asparagus, vegetable oil, some sootiness and notes of bitter ales, camphor and menthol tobaccos. Again this feels a curious mix of unusual but a little lacking in power at the same time. Finish: A tad short and on breads, ground ginger, mustard powder and cornflakes. Comments: Hard to know what to make of this. It had some very attractive moments, but I can’t shake the impression Fettercarin - in all its glorious weirdness - is a spirit that needs a higher abv. Same score as the 12 I think.
SGP: 461 - 79 points. |
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Fettercairn 30 yo 1988/2019 (56.9%, Signatory Vintage for C. Dully, cask #2007, hogshead, 219 bottles) 
A bottling for some notorious Swiss whisky folk who don’t seem to need sleep whenever they’re in Limburg… Colour: gold. Nose: what I love is that there’s a definite DNA between this and the officials. These notes of grease, exotic fruit syrups, horse sweat and - if I may borrow a Sergeism for a moment - wet dog. It’s just that here everything is more muscular, direct and punchy which works very well. Rye bread, herbal medicines, bitter ales, soot and roast root vegetables again. Fettercairn raw (what a frightening thought). With water: some kind of salted honey drizzled over breakfast cereals. Ginger cake, Scotch broth and hints of plasticine. Mouth: lots of putty, concrete, muesli drizzled with heather honey, some very light hints of fragrant soaps, mint leaf, caraway and crushed Brazil nuts. Sweet, spicy, unusually lactic and with some lightly extractive notes from the wood. With water: wow! opens terrifically with water. Wider, spicier, more breads, sultanas, dried fruits, some bitter herbal notes, darjeeling tea, camphor, tool boxes. Pretty excellent with water I have to say. Finish: Long, rather bitter and herbal, notes of heather, caraway, olive oil, yeast and baking soda. Comments: Switzerland: I came for the yodelling, but I stayed for the Fettercairn! Very clever selection, worth trying if you can. Although water is pretty essential with this one I’d say, I initially had it a couple of points lower when neat.
SGP: 572 - 88 points. |
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Benrinnes 15 yo 2004/2019 (54.8%, Cadenhead, Chilean red wine cask, 252 bottles) 
Quite frankly, this looks terrifying… Colour: radioactive salmon. Nose: roses, litchis, raspberry jam, pot pourri, red fruit teas and things like rainbow sherbet and candy floss. Otherwise it feels oddly taut and closed. With water: some touches of bread and green pepper emerge but generally this is strange and jarring. Organoleptic dissonance. Mouth: I’m sorry but: ouch! This is just overwhelmed with jarring and bitter red wine flavours. A kind of flabby, plastic fruitiness. I really find this unpleasant and seriously imbalanced. With water: not much in the way of improvement. A kind of sickly, jammy and flabby fruitiness. Disjointed whisky. Finish: medium and on sweet jams, cloying cereals and artificial fruit notes. Comments: I’m sorry, but why bottle this? For the amusing colour? I am reminded of everything I hate about wine finishing. I know that others disagree and of course that’s fine, but this really feels like a flawed mess.
SGP: 631 - 63 points. |
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Benrinnes 18 yo 2000/2019 (55.7%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 4 bourbon barrels, 618 bottles) 
Colour: straw. Nose: a breath of fresh air after that wine abomination. Soft waxes, menthol vapours, sweet cereals, butter and lime curd. Very good, clean and characterful Benrinnes. With water: lovely development towards white flowers, lemon balm, more vapour rubs and sweet cereals. Mouth: rather gentle on arrival, plenty heathery honey notes, cereals, light tobacco notes, more menthol, waxed canvas and lemon tea. Unfolds rather beautifully from a shy start. With water: great texture, lightly waxy, bready, notes of pollen, mint tea, lemon peel and white pepper. Finish: good length, all on putty, mint, cereals, pollen and more fruit tea notes. Comments: straightforward, clean, simple and rather elegant Benrinnes that manages to be both light but charismatic at the same time. I’d take a miniature of this over an entire cask of that wine finish. The kind of whisky that any malt drinker could find abundant pleasure in.
SGP: 561 - 87 points. |
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Benrinnes 18 yo 2000/2019 (58.7%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, bourbon barrel, 186 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: very similar territories to the Small Batch only here there’s more greenery, more ripe garden fruits, grassy notes, newspaper ink, dried banana chips, oatmeal and some bitter orange marmalade. With water: interesting development towards dried flowers, geraniums in greenhouses, potting sheds and things like clay, brown bread and a tiny hint of marshmallow. Mouth: a tad drier and leaner than the Small Batch, rather peppery, punchy, flinty and on dry cereals, dried herbs and hints of eucalyptus and hessian. Still same excellent quality though. With water: a little sweeter and more opulent now. Lime leaf, hessian, custard made with old dessert wines and hints of lamp oil. Finish: good length and on white pepper, heather honey, dry cereals, breads, dried herbs and sunflower oil. Comments: I can see why they chose this one for the single cask, rather smart as it has some notable and quite fun deviations from the Small Batch. Same quality and same score, despite the different profile.
SGP: 461 - 87 points. |
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Benrinnes 18 yo 1999/2017 (48.4%, Douglas Laing Old Particular, sherry butt, 253 bottles)
Colour: light amber. Nose: very lovely initial aromas of damp leaves, soft earthy tones, wine cellars, fruit tobaccos and aged mead. They always used to say Benrinnes worked best in sherry and its easy to see why in a nose like this. Some nicely drying notes of fresh brown bread, walnuts and then damson jam and rosewater. Lovely stuff. Mouth: a beautifully old school sherry. Leafy, nutty, very slightly meaty, some bitter chocolate, herbal extracts, black coffee, prunes, strawberry jam, green walnuts and more tobacco. There’s an overall lightness of touch about this one but the flavours are all perfectly pitched and harmonious with each other. Impressive! Finish: Good length, some bitter chocolate alongside more savoury notes of liquid seasonings, dried herbs, old fruit liqueurs and Dundee cake. Comments: A great wee surprise. No doubt from an impeccable, and possibly rather old, sherry cask.
SGP: 661 - 88 points. |
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Glentauchers 2004/2018 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail, refill hogsheads) 
Always love these licensed ‘distillery labels’ from G&M. Colour: white wine. Nose: rather autolytic and yeasty at first nosing, also with some acetic notes of white balsamic, fermenting hay and some kind of lemony goat cheese. Sounds funny but it’s actually pretty good. One of these whiskies that manages to feel bigger than its ABV. Continues with some lovely notes of trampled ferns, grasses and petrichor. Mouth: nice arrival, all on muesli, soft waxes, paper, clay, canvas, cereals and lemon jelly. Easy, yet displaying a clever complexity. The cereal profile gets bigger and more dominant with time. Finish: medium and all on buttery toast, cereals, sunflower oil, plain pistachio nuts and cornflour. Comments: The epitome of naked, easy and pure malt whisky. A perfect intro for anyone who wishes to understand the benefits of good refill wood.
SGP: 551 - 84 points. |
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Glentauchers 2011/2018 (63.4%, Whisky Illuminati ‘Solaria Series’, cask #900364, sherry butt, 150 bottles)
A series from a newish indy bottler here in Scotland. This cask has only been partially bottled, and the rest will continue to mature until a later date. Which sounds quite fun to me. Colour: amber. Nose: a rather punchy and direct sherry. Quite modern in style with lots of red fruits, bitter chocolate, freshly brewed black coffee and maraschino cherry juices. Some soft herbal notes along with cocoa and something like Jagermeister. Surprisingly open considering the strength. With water: again rather dense and rich, all on chocolate sauce, Nutella, treacle, caramel toffee and muesli full of chopped dates and walnuts. Mouth: impressively syrupy and velvety in texture. Almost like quaffing pure chocolate sauce cut with prune eau de vie. Don’t get me wrong, there are still quite a few pangs of youth but you feel the cask and its machinations for this distillate are towards cleanliness and opulence. Rather sticky and fudgey in the mouth with notes of treacle sponge and fruit jams. With water: perhaps tad cloying now with these notes of ruby port, raspberry jam and cassis. However, it remains impressively full bodied, nutty and clean. Finish: long, chocolatey, leather and increasingly meaty with these notes of herbal broths, meat stocks and then some gingery spice in the aftertaste. Comments: There’s plenty to admire here, not least the impressive mouthfeel and texture. There’s still a few imbalances of youth but will be a fun one to follow when the next bundle of bottles come out of the cask in a few years time.
SGP: 661 - 85 points. |
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December 6, 2019 |
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World whiskies ad libitum |
We’re trying this again. Last time, we started in London and then got stuck in lovely Sweden because of some excessive amounts of very good whiskies! That’s what’s happening when you improvise a line-up, but let’s see if we can do better. And we’ll start this in… France! Ta-da-ta-da-taaa-taaa-taaa-taaa-ta-da… Err, excuse me… |
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Armorik 10 yo ‘Batch 2’ (46%, OB, 2,000 bottles, 2019) 
2018’s first batch was excellent (WF 87), but it’s true that Bretons are Celts too (as if that mattered much…) Colour: gold. Nose: yeah, malt, barley, cakes, roasted nuts, touches of raisins, walnuts, drops of stout, gâteau Breton (hey I am joking), a little menthol and a few pine needles… This is malt whisky as in the books, as we say. Mouth: big, very slightly smoky (where does that come from?), with a sappy side, perhaps touches of fresh putty, otherwise all those roasted nuts and slightly burnt cakes that we were expecting. And of course this maltiness, and this handful of raisins. Finish: rather long, rather drier, with a few rubbery notes (all good in this context) and more cakes. Orange cakes, perhaps. Comments: not much to add, this could as well be some very good 20-yo Speyside whisky. Score unchanged, let us rest our mind for a moment.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
From France to… the Czech Republic! |
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Pradlo 2002 (41.7%, OB, Czech Republic, +/-2019) 
Pradlo are rather famous for their pre-Velvet Revolution ‘Hammerhead’, which surprised everyone when it was bottled, a few years ago, but this is their newer capitalist juice, if I may say so. Colour: colour. Nose: I knew it was going to be pretty good, and I have to say I find it even better. There’s one thing that’s more in the front than elsewhere, for example, and that would be honey (and mead, nectar, pollen)… A beehive-y nose, how come could I be against that? Gingerbread, honey cookies, touches of gentian and other roots, drops of maple syrup on pancakes, whiffs of earth… Hey hey! Mouth: a little more unlikely on the palate, because of some very gingery oak and some funny notes of turnips and stewed celeriac. A little less sure now, there’s quite some sawdust as well. Finish: medium, with some sawdust and hints of burnt wood. Blueberry jam in the aftertaste, that’s cool! Comments: I think they reduced it a little too much, which may have made the oak stand out. Now I’m all in favour of blueberry jam.
SGP:541 - 78 points. |
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Holy Distillery ‘Amazing Grace’ (55%, OB, Taiwan, rice whisky, cask #43, 2019) 
Neither Kavalan nor Nantou, this is yet another Taiwanese distillery, which I hadn’t heard of before. I haven’t tried many rice whiskies (I mean, knowingly), I just remember Brooklyn’s Môtô that was… pretty unusual. It’s true that Môtô are using glutinous rice. Anyway, let’s see if this is a holy spirit indeed (S., you old French secularist!) Colour: red/mahogany. Moves like oil. Nose: we’re rather far from malted barley, but there’s something extremely attractive in this nose, something that reminds me of some of Lost Spirits’ experiments. Let’s say some coffee, something slightly merloty, whiffs of old copper kettle, a little umami, miso, soy sauce, caraway, cloves, and really a lot of myrtle liqueur. Ever tried myrtle liqueur? Check the Corsicans. With water: blackberry liqueur, walnut stain, kummel, Bovril, pumpernickel, gingerbread, heavy stout… Well, there is some action in there and that’s an understatement. Mouth (neat): extremely thick and heavy, hyper-extractive, spicy, concentrated… Loads of ginger and cloves, myrtle again (really, it’s the first time I’m finding some whisky that’s this close to myrtle), coffee-Cointreau, black pepper, bitter oranges… It’s really got the texture of some liqueur, but without any sugar (and no glycerine either, I suppose). With water: it does take water well but gets extremely herbal, while the very spicy wood tends to come to the front. Lavender and dried fish or something. I know, how unusual. Finish: a long as a Fidel speech, as we used to say when the Lider was still alive. But agreed, quoting Castro about a holy whisky may sound as a little too provocative. What would the Vatican say? Comments: very entertaining but extremely difficult to score, for lack of any proper references or comparisons. Apart from Lost Spirits’… But I’m positive this is good and very interesting.
SGP:472 - 80 points. |
While we’re at it, perhaps another kind of biblical whisky, bottled at 55% vol. as well… |
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Milk & Honey (55%, OB, Israel, for La Maison du Whisky, 2019) 
This one was finished in a peated cask, so it is some kind of pre-blended malt, shall we say. I’ll add, before we proceed, that I could informally try M&H’s new ‘regular’ malt and thought it was wonderful. Never judge a distillery by their odd single casks, try their core range! Colour: gold. Nose: there clearly is a feeling of assemblage, with a combination that’s a little unusual, with some juniper, a smokiness that’s not totally a smokiness, quite some ginger indeed, some stems and leaves, ferns, camphor, pine resin, and then perhaps some green curry and hints of garam masala. At some crossroads, shall we say. With water: calms down, with more custard and softer honeys and creams. The peat is more obvious, more delicate as well. Very nice nose, I would recommend you reduce it right away. Mouth (neat): very much similar, very spicy, curry-like, with a pleasant bitterness (chewing your used tea bag, eating wakame), and a growing fruitier roundness that starts to balance it after a few seconds. Kumquats, mango chutney… With water: once again, water does wonders and lets oranges and quinces come out, while we almost say adios to any kind of grassy bitterness. Finish: long, the spicy oak being back. Some salt and pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a difficult exercise and another one that they should deliver with a wee bottle of water. It loves swimming. Very good, but the new ‘regular’ M&H is even better in my book.
SGP:463 - 84 points. |
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Domaine des Hautes Glaces 2013/2019 ‘Ampelos’ (52.5%, OB, France, 584 bottles, 2019) 
This is ‘Climatic Single Malt Whisky’, you understand, meaning it comes from a single ‘climat’ (a s they would say in Burgundy, for example), so pretty much a small ‘terroir’. It was distilled in 2013 but the barley was harvested in 2012. Colour: full gold. Nose: crushed bananas, coriander seeds, Moroccan sweet bread, gingerbread and speculoos, and just a drop of liquid chicory coffee. Add some notes of honeysuckle, elderflowers, and gorse. With water: another one that loves water. Were in front of a table full of various breads, somewhere in a ski resort in, say Tyrol. Not showing off, they really serve dozens of various breads for breakfast over there. Mouth (neat): very bready, in the very best sense of that word. So, bread (mazeltov, S.!), cumin cookies, a drop of absinth, peach leaves (did you know you can make a great liqueur out of peach leaves?) and various spicy cookies. Not spacey cookies, right. With water: unexpected salty touches. The tiniest bit of anchovy. Finish: long, more on fruit breads. Wholegrain bread with tiny bits of dried apricots and orange zests. Would you pass the foie gras, please? Comments: love this feeling of liquid bread. Expecting a Lafayette blend, 50% DHG, 50% Westland. No, pure speculations.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Why wouldn’t we drive back to the Czech Republic? |
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Pradlo 30 yo (43.7%, OB, Czech Republic, 2019)
This old ‘Hammerhead’ was just bottled to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the velvet undergr… I mean, the velvet revolution (no disrespect meant at all, friends, on the contrary). I suppose it was distilled before the Velvet Revolution, since that took place between November 16 and December 29, 1989. Colour: gold. Nose: really very soft, rather on fruit peels, overripe apples, barley, oatcakes, and greengages. Mown lawn. It whispers rather than shouts. Mouth: indeed, it’s soft, rather on walnuts indeed, orange zests, teas, rhubarb, Swedish bread (Krisprolls), then more grass indeed. A wee touch of sugar, perhaps. Finish: a little short and a little more liqueury, not too deep and a little sweet. Comments: rather light whisky, pretty good but more historical than hysterical (yellow card, S.!)
SGP:341 - 79 points. |
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Starward ‘Two-Fold’ (40%, OB, Australia, 2019)
They’ve distilled wheat and malted barley and matured the result in some Australian red wine barrels. I agree that’s all very scary, but I’ve tried it before and thought it was rather ‘good to print’. Now who still bottles at 40% vol.? Colour: apricot. Nose: the thing is, at 40%, even the wackiest concoctions become noseable. In fact, this is pretty nice, think panettone with additional red berries inside and a poke of goji berries, as they would say in Scotland. Nice bready/leaveny background. Mouth: this is clearly something else. I had expected something ‘pure pot still’ given the recipe but not at all, it’s more kriek beer and Jaffa cakes, more gojis, and green tea. Cherry-stem tea. We’re clearly far away from Scotch malt, for example, and perhaps not even extremely ‘whisky’, but it’s a fine spirit, rather fresh, with good red fruits. For once, the red wine did not kill the whisky. Finish: nice, fresh, very cake-y, very pleasant. Comments: I was about to go for 79 but the nice finish lifted that a wee bit. Very honest effort from Downunda – and I know regular barrels will be much more to my liking.
SGP:341 - 80 points. |
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Rampur ‘Double Cask’ (45%, OB, India, 2019)
Rampur’s maybe a little less well-known than Amrut and Paul John, but I thought their ‘Select’, which I had tried last year, was extremely okay (WF 80). This one’s seen both some bourbon and some sherry wood, hence the word ‘double’. No they haven’t racked their brains. The price is a little steep though (72€). Colour: gold. Nose: get out of here, litchis and rose petals! We’re between mei-kwei-lu and gewurztraminer, but the funny thing is that this works a treat. Litchi juice, really, and a few mucaty touches. Mouth: impressively on gewurztraminer. Really, I made some marc de gewurz quite a few times with my friends, and flavours are rather similar. Turkish delights, rose jelly, parfait amour, blueberry muffins… And not one single off-note. Finish: medium, fresh, on… marc de gewurztraminer. Comments: some Indian whisky that’s rather more ‘Indian’ than others. Did you notice that I have refrained from quoting rose lassi? Impressive Rampur, smartly done.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
Good, a last one, and let’s stay in beautiful India – that would be in Goa. Or would that be Campbeltown? |
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Paul John 7 yo 2011/2019 (55.4%, Cadenhead, World Whiskies, India, bourbon hogshead, 348 bottles)
Matured for 5 years in India and 2 years in Campbeltown. Not too sure about the outturn, please don’t take my word for it. Colour: amber. Nose: starts Laphroaiggy, really, so pretty camphory and even smoky, and would go on with mangos and mouthwash for kids. Funny and unusual. With water: bandages and ointments blended with mango juice, then grass smoke. I mean, proper grass. I mean, from a lawn. Mouth (neat): big peat, tiger balm, mojito, tropical wood (cachaça) and cedar wood. Highly unusual indeed, let’s hope water won’t make it… explode! With water: no, on the contrary, it became a little saltier, more on brine and oysters with some tabasco spread. Gets peppery indeed. Finish: long, bitterish, salty, bittersweet in fact. A lot of ginger. Comments: another labyrinthic one that would just lose you. Very hard to score.
SGP:464 - 82 points. |
That's enough for now. See you. |
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December 5, 2019 |
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Little duos, today Craigellachie 2005 |
We’ve had some very good Craigs’ a few weeks ago, so time to go for them again, although we’d just have two little 2005s today. |
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Craigellachie 13 yo 2005/2019 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, refill bourbon barrels, batch #19/101, 1314 bottles)
This baby’s a vatting of four casks. Colour: white wine. Nose: plain and pure barley eau-de-vie an custard with drops of pastis and some kind of fennel extract, then apple pie, sweet beer, williams pear and brioche. Does what it says on the tin, it’s well Scotch single malt whisky (Mr. Einstein, you’ve got competition). Mouth: very malty and very much on ale, with quite a lot of sourness, green oak perhaps, artisan cider, then calms down, with more vanilla, brioche again, and just a drop of café latte. Also stewed rhubarb an green plums. Finish: rather long, sweeter and rather rounder this time, but with quite a lot of pepper and greener ginger. Comments: certainly good and even rather flawless, but I would have thought this baby would have been, say a little silkier and smoother.
SGP:351 - 80 points. |
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Craigellachie 13 yo 2005/2019 (58.1%, Single Cask Nation, bourbon hogshead)
(Picture of a sister bottling). Our American friends’ ‘first UK + European release’. So, virtually Brexit-ready already, that’s what I’d call an admirable adaptability ;-). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s much stronger, and yet relatively easier at very fist nosing, more mineral for sure, getting then pretty leafy/chalky and a tad aguardienty, as they say in… err, well, no one’s saying that I suppose. With water: fennel seeds just like in the G&M, aniseed, then muesli, raw wool and some unexpected seaweed. Mouth (neat): sharp in a good way, on not-too-ripe kiwis and lime. Which, I suppose, you could mix with that aguardiente. Then a touch of wasabi, which completes this feeling of ‘green’ whisky. With water: super-good, and rather more on all things green apples. A glutamate-y touch (I know, no one’s saying that either). Finish: long and rather sharper yet, on wasabi and pepper over green apples. Peelings in the aftertaste. Comments: some very excellent ‘green’ whisky – but is it organic as well?
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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December 4, 2019 |
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Angus-in-Edinburgh had had quite a bag of old Irish the other day, which made me kind of jealous. Let’s have some newish Irish to recover! |
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The Pogues (40%, OB, Irish blend, 2019)
This is the band’s official whisky. It’s said that it is what keeps Shane MacGowan alive (although not exactly kicking). Hey, my words, not an official statement of any sorts! Colour: gold. Nose: certainly not unpleasant, even if a little light and with whiffs of sawdust and coconut, certainly not something unseen in Irish blends. Notes of milk chocolate, café latte, walnut cake, and some engaging freshness. Mouth: it really is good whiskey, with this feeling of coffee-schnaps, notes of sweet ale, overripe apples, and a touch of soot and green smoke. A drop of lapsang souchong, shall I say. The body’s a tad thin but not exactly weak. Finish: a little short but with good presence and a sour-sweet aftertaste. More ale, in other words. Comments: I’ve been told this was made at West Cork, but I think it’s got more bone and more flesh. Very good Irish for the price.
SGP:452 - 80 points. |
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The Pogues Single Malt (40%, OB, Irish single malt, 2019)
As it says. The 40% vol. are bad news here, feels a little scrimpy. Colour: paler gold. Nose: feels a little younger, quite bizarrely, and certainly much maltier, breadier, sourer and even more on ale. Wee touches of tequila and white rum here and there, some gingerbread, walnut wine, and then even grappa. It is kind of grappa-y, and that works. Mouth: misery and putrefaction, why oh why not 43% vol.? Because this is very good juice, with the same slightly ‘meta’ flavour palette, with pears, grappa, rum… How funny and how good! A feint metallic side in the background, which is very Irish in my book. Also rosehip tea and more gingerbread. Finish: sadly a little short, with more spices around cinnamon and just plain sawdust. Comments: not my business but I would do a version at 46 or 50% vol., the juice would stand it.
SGP:451 - 81 points. |
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Jameson ‘Triple Triple’ (40%, OB, Irish blend, 2019) 
A fairly new Jameson for travel retail. Triple triple does not refer to the number 9, it’s a matter of being triple-distilled and matured in three kinds of cask, namely bourbon, sherry and malaga. Colour: gold. Nose: at bit hard after the Pogues’ malt, as this JJ&S is much shier and almost silent, although I’m starting to find nots of raisins after a minute or two, and then hints of eucalyptus. Very light, but this is another one that’s not unpleasant, without the raw harshness of some of the Scotch blends that are sold for similar prices. Mouth: less defined and refined than both Pogues, and rather on wood and fruit peeling. I suppose most people drink these juices on ice, or as mizuwari. Yeah I can use that word too. Probably refreshing once you’ve added a lot of fresh water and ice cubes. Finish: short, a tad sweet and ethanoly. Comments: not a bad tipple (wow!) there are some very nice parts, such as the nose. The palate is not necessary, I would say.
SGP:341 - 73 points. |
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Tullamore D.e.w. 12 yo (40%, OB, Irish blend, 2019)
40% vol. once again, but this is a disease! This is the 21st century, good folks! Colour: gold. Nose: nice, fresh, on apples and peaches, then sawdust and these wee sooty and metallic touches. Then hints of brioche and baked raisins, or perhaps panettone, with whiffs of orange blossom. Very light, but balanced and rather seductive. Mouth: ah, good, fresh, with banana cookies and some chocolate, IPA, some mead, some gingerbread, but sadly a little sawdust once again, beyond cinnamon. A higher strength would have improved that part, for sure. The middle is thin. Finish: short, even abrupt. Leaves only sawdust and two raisins. Comments: good but frustrating.
SGP:341 - 77 points. |
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Tullamore D.e.w. 14 yo (41.3%, OB, Irish single malt, 2019)
Comes with a very William-Grant-ish cask-strength look-alike A.B.V. Come on, 41.3%, that’s just like 40%, is it not. This was matured in bourbon, sherry, port and madeira. Madeira can work very well, let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: pear cake, melon cream, preserved peaches, custard, acacia honey, tinned litchis, and a drop of gewurztraminer. Not a bad combo, I have to say. Mouth: good. IPA and the same flavours that we found on the nose, that is to say (I’m copy-and-pasting) pear cake, melon cream, preserved peaches, custard, acacia honey, tinned litchis, and a drop of gewurztraminer (S., you lazy piece of a so-called whisky blogger!) Finish: good but a little too short, and probably a little too sweet, as if some syrup was added, which cannot be the case. Very sweet malmsey? Comments: certainly a good drop! The body’s frustratingly weakish, though.
SGP:431 - 79 points. |
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Redbreast 12 yo ‘Cask Strength Batch B2-19’ (55.8%, OB, single pot still, 2019)
I had rather loved a 12 C/S at 57.7% but that was in 2011. Colour: gold. Nose: what a difference 15 more degrees make, used to sing Gloria Gaynor. Quite. Having said that I’m not quite finding the expected melons and mangos, I’m rather unearthing notes of rum and chocolate. Water, maybe… With water: some menthol, fabric, and above everything, metal polish and chlorophyll. Mouth (neat): bursts with fruits and sweet grains, which gives it a blendish side, rather than pure pot still. Popcorn, bubblegum, a little varnish, saccharine, sweet maize… With water: I must be doing something wrong, it keeps feeling young and blendy. Finish: medium, a little harsh and rustic. Comments: water is totally mandatory here, but even then, we’re very far from the previous Redbreasts, whether young or older. A much simpler, harsher spirit, without much of the trademark seductively arrogant fruitiness.
SGP:451 - 78 points. |
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Eala 24 yo 1991/2016 (55.8%, The Whisky Cask Company, Celtic Trilogy, rum cask, cask #6847, 283 bottles) 
A Swiss bottling. I believe this stems from those parcels of casks of Bushmills that were sold before Diageo handed over the distillery and the brand. We’ve already tried the two sisters and both were magnificent. We had kept this one for harder days… Colour: chestnut wine. Nose: sweet Vishnu, hurray! Pipe tobacco, Jamaican rum, tar, tamarind jam, black olives, tomato compote, crude cocoa, chicken soup, miso, chestnut honey, Marmite… What a maelstrom! With water: melon liqueur and the most fantastic dried figs ever. Mouth (neat): sweet Vishnu, are you still there? In truth this is a little brutal, not quite properly polished around the edges, but the rest is luminous, on pomegranate juice, oloroso, straw wine, prune juice, molasses, pipe tobacco, tar drops, more miso… Well, you see. It’s just a little harsh. With water: we tamed it and brought out figs, dates, cinnamon rolls, and raisin bread. Oh and a little cane juice, perhaps. Finish: long, on fig wine and drops of arrack and raki. We’re almost in Turkey now. Comments: Extraordinary Irish whisky, even if we tend to like the cleaner counterparts even better. Like, you know, simply ex-bourbon.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Irish Single Malt Whiskey 15 yo 2002/2019 (57.9%, Artful Dodger, bourbon, cask #346, 291 bottles)
Mathematically speaking, a 2002/2019 cannot be 15 years old, it can only be either 17 or 16. Now speaking legally, it could be of any age, even 3. That would be fun! Colour: straw. Nose: all on coconut water, vanilla and sawdust at first nosing, it’s almost as if we were entering one of those huge palettised warehouses at Midleton. Then a little earth, prickly pears and oolong tea, which is very lovely. With water: lovely touches of soft hand-cream (Chanel, ha-ha) and marzipan, then fresh baguette. Mouth (neat): rich and creamy, slightly sour and yeasty (in a good way), with sweet pastries, greengages, and a good glass of artisanal mead. With water: loves water and swims well, getting fruitier, more honeyed, and more in the style of ‘B.’ Finish: rather long, going towards some kinds of pre-Brexit peppered thin mints of some sorts. Jaffa cakes as well. Comments: a superb middle-aged Irish that would just play with you. A teaser!
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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An Irish 12 yo 2006/2018 (47.5%, Cadenhead for Flanders Finest Cask Selection, bourbon hogshead, 324 bottles)
This one for Belgium, so probably good with waffles. Or mussels. Or carbonnade flamande. Or garneelen croquettes. Or political stability. Colour: straw. Nose: super nice, although probably ‘coloured’ with some cask stemming from some not-too-distant island. I mean, not too distant both from Campbeltown and Ireland. A lovely medicinal side that’s got strictly nothing to do with Ireland (or only after a rugby match against the French, ha), and some melons. Unusual, but very nice. Mouth (neat): yeah, this is not quite ‘Irish’, unless some ex-peated Connemara wood was used. Peat, mercurochrome, preserved peaches, bananas, brown bread, cinnamon, breading, and some echoes of coal. Finish: long and really very peppery. We’re almost geared towards old young Talisker. Comments: it is all a little mysterious here. Connemara? Or some unpeated Irish that’s been finished in some ex-Laphroaig (respectively Lagavulin, Ardbeg or Caol Ila) wood? I couldn’t tell you, but I’m finding this hybrid baby very good.
SGP:553 - 86 points. |
We’ve got many more Irish to taste, but that’ll happen… well, sooner or later. Please stay tuned. |
 Check the index of all Irish we've tasted so far
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December 3, 2019 |
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Little duos, today Glen Scotia |
Everybody seems to love the new official oak-boosted expressions, and indeed they seem to have saved many an uncertain cask using contemporary wood technology (rejuvenation/STRising and re-racking, really). But we’ll rather have two little IBs today… |
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Glen Scotia 9 yo 2008/2018 (55.9%, Kintra, 239 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: indeed there is this pretty peculiar coastalness, as if someone would have slightly smoked some mentholated gooseberries and then shipped them to America on a ship. Like Greta. Very nice wax, candlewax, paraffin, plasticine… It really is a ‘different’ malt whisky, but I find it much less porridge-y and even yoghurty than earlier Glen Scotias. With water: it’s got an obvious medicinal side, also some vanilla. Mercurochrome matured in first fill bourbon wood. Mouth (neat): indeed, it’s very idiosyncratic. Crushed mint leaves plus lime juice plus engine oil and waxes. Works. With water: gets very creamy, while lemons would creep in. Another malt that’s pretty limoncello-y. Finish: long, creamy indeed. Limoncello wood? Comments: I can’t remember having spotted lemon trees on the Mull of Kintyre. Have you? After all, they’re still getting a wee bit of the Gulf Stream, aren’t they.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
Now who would have easy access to Glen Scotia’s warehouses? But of course, their favourite neighbours… |
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Glen Scotia 27 yo 1992/2019 (45%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 150 bottles)
That’s not many bottles and given the low natural strength, some leakage may have occurred. Just a wild guess. Colour: straw. Nose: this is a little touchy, I would say. It’s pretty sooty, with also whiffs of chemical yeast, then yoghurt sauce, soft honey vinegar, Woolite, copper polish, fino, fabric, turnips, sorrel soup… I’m really curious about the palate, because the nose was a little unlikely. Quite a soup, really. Mouth: it’s a little hard, dry, austere, very grassy and leafy, bitterish, with a sour, almost yoghurty dirtiness in the background, then those turnips again, eggplants, artichokes… A very unusual drop for sure, void of any kind of sweetness, not to mention fruits. Would they have distilled roots and vegetables? Finish: rather long, now with green lemons (not lime) and notes of raw aguardiente. Comments: it’s actually not too far from some cachaças that I could try, or am I dreaming? A very different malt, not easy to assess but really worth checking out.
SGP: 361 - 81 points. |
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December 2, 2019 |
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Little duos, today perfect Teaninich |
Another little name that’s gaining traction these days… I’d bet that in twenty years’ time, after peat, the blue chips will be Strathmill, Glen Spey, or Teaninich. No I won’t mention the future third-rank names, but I have got a few ideas, haven’t you? |
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Teaninich 12 yo 2006/2019 (51.7%, Hidden Spirits, cask #TH619)
Colour: straw. Nose: classic malty and beerish start, going towards tomato leaves after that, then seaweed and moist chalk and plaster. Some cider as well, which is to be found in many such raw youngish malts – and which I rather enjoy. With water: yeah, that old sweater that you once forgot on the beach, and more chalk. Mouth (neat): oh excellent! Straight lemon juice blended with pastry dough, fresh brioche… and chalk. No further literature needed, this combo always works in my book. With water: excellent. Teaninich, really! Fresh liquorice, green pears, more chalk, limoncello, that’s all a well-known song, and that’s not Katy Perry. Finish: medium to long, maltier again, with good dough, chalk, and grapefruit/lemon. A touch of nougat in the aftertaste. Comments: cool Teaninich, almost a surprise. Ah, Diageo’s old shoebox distilleries..
SGP:452 - 88 points. |
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Teaninich 13 yo 2005/2019 (56.2%, Single Cask Nation, 2nd fill bourbon hogshead, cask #487, 277 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: a little more rounded, vanilla-ed, syrupy in a way, but only by contrast, otherwise we’re rather on broken branches, more fresh breads and pastries, that chalkiness again, perhaps fern and moss, cider apples, perhaps a little hessian, a touch of mercurochrome… That’s a little intriguing, I have to say, let’s see what happens once water’s been added: perfect! Citron liqueur, watermelon juice, fresh croissants, and barley syrup. Mouth (neat): starts creamy, with a little ginger cream and certainly some white pepper, goes then the melon route, but it would remain peppery all along. Some sweeter harissa – bring the couscous! Bitter oranges. With water: much sweeter and fruitier. Syrups, liqueurs, and citrus juices. Impeccable. Finish: not that long, but right on the same citrusy flavours. Comments: lovely, it’s a tie. Reminds me a bit of some old (obviously) young Rosebanks.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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December 1, 2019 |
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Cognacs randomly
(not obligatorily a good idea) |
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Pierre Ferrand ‘Renegade Barrel No.2’ (47.1%, OB, eau-de-vie de vin, +/-2019)
Most online retailers advertise this as being a Cognac, but it is not since they’ve done a finishing in chestnut on it. By law and like with Scotch, Cognac = oak. Now it’s to be remembered that chestnut was not uncommon in the wine world, but that was mainly because chestnut barrels used to be… cheaper. Oh and this is NAS. Colour: gold. Nose: not quite Cognac indeed, despite some rather lovely notes of stewed peaches and melons, rather a spirit that would sit between Scotch and Cognac. Some sultanas, vanilla, also balsa wood, perhaps? Cedar? Feels young. Greengages. Mouth: pretty good, a tad sweet, raisiny, with typical stewed melons, grapes, apricots, also honey and a little caramel. Feels a little too sweet for me, in fact. Finish: long, really too sweet now, this is a little cloying. A shame, because the juice was probably pretty good in the first place. Why torture some fine Cognac? Comments: feels a little unnecessary, but I can’t think of any spirit that’s properly ‘necessary’. Except that one that cures snake bites, according to W.C. Fields. So, what’s next?
SGP:631 - 76 points. |
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Tesseron ‘Composition’ (40%, B, Cognac, Fine Champagne, +/-2018)
A youngish blend of Grande and Petite Champagne (a.k.a. Fine Champagne), packaged like if it was whisky. Aye, why not! Loved Tesseron’s Lot 90 earlier this year (WF 89). Colour: deep gold. Nose: not extremely expressive, and that’s an understatement. Buttercream? Fresh American oak? Popcorn? Watermelon? Vanilla? That’s the problem with these 40% vol., that’s really getting too low, especially, listen to this please, since no one’s using those large ‘fishbowl’ style Cognac glasses anymore, you know the ones that used to amplify just any nose. Mouth: better, brighter, with good honey and peach sauce, sultanas, jams, touches of wild strawberries as well as strawberry yoghurt, but it would then start to nosedive, getting weaker and a little tea-ish, which is another word for drying. Finish: fine but short and a little liqueury. Peach and melon liqueur, with a little tea from the oak. Comments: no, not my business but they could have done this much better. A rather wibbly-wobbly offering, pretty disappointing given the Tesseron name and their reputation. Bad malternative.
SGP:520 - 70 points. |
A bad start, that happens… But… |
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Vallein-Tercinier 32 yo Lot 86 ‘Bons Bois’ (44.5%, Maltbarn, 158 bottles)
Why and how this would be a miss, I don’t know. After all, this one has got a number of excellent advantages, the name Maltbarn, the name Vallein-Tercinier, and last but not least, the vintage that was the year when the band ‘Europe’ released their wonderful single, ‘The Final Countdown’ (which opened a whole new market for hearing aids). Joking. Colour: gold. Nose: typical house-style, ridden with preserved and fresh fruits, from papayas to melons and from pink bananas to peaches. This style is extremely appealing to malt enthusiast, because we’re oh-so close to some 1966-1972 vintage malts such as Lochside, Clynelish, Caperdonich, Glen Grant, Glengoyne, Glenugie… Well, you see. Mouth: ah, this one’s a notch more herbal than other expressions, which is lovable. Between fresh liquorice and melon skins, I would say. Other than that, we’ve got all our friends, figs, cocoa, dates, mangos, raisins, chestnut honey, cinnamon… It’s also a tad more drying than some siblings, or is that me? Finish: rather long, rather more on chocolate. Comments: no-quibble Cognac. Reminds me of that new chocolate that Lindt & Sprüngli have just released, which is milk chocolate with 65% cocoa inside. It’s called Lindt Excellence, and of course they pay me. Not, but love it almost as much as I love this Cognac.
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
Let’s keep our game high, if you don’t mind… |
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Borderies N°65 (55.8%, Cognac Grosperrin, +/-2019)
Which equates to the 1965 vintage, in unofficial Cognac talk. Borderies is a smallish cru that’s supposed to age a little faster than Grande or Petite Champagne, but to tell you the truth, I’m totally unable to confirm that. Colour: deep amber. Nose: I find it relatively earthy at first nosing, and a tad spirity as well, but that may well come from the pretty high strength (by Cognac standards). Notes of caramel and molasses, perhaps. I suppose we’ll have to wake it up… With water: menthol and camphor win it, it’s almost as we had opened a new pack of thin mints. The usual stewed peaches are there too. Mouth (neat): extremely punchy, almost aggressive, acerbic, pungent, with big sharp citrus and some gritty caramel. Water please! With water: it would remain a little harsh, almost young, rustic, on the other hand I really enjoy how lively it remained. Bags of oranges, perhaps a little horseradish, pepper, grittier teas… Finish: long, with a certain tannicity, some dry spices, and a few old walnuts. Comments: just the opposite of a silky old Cognac, this one’s a pretty dry, tireless fighter.
SGP:361 - 86 points. |
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Grande Champagne N°34 (45.1%, Cognac Grosperrin, +/-2019)
That’ right, 1934, great vintage in Bordeaux and elsewhere, so I suppose that’s the same with Cognac. Colour: deep amber. Nose: always like it when it starts with coffee and hints of burnt molasses, while in this very case, stewed and preserved fruits would really start to abound after just five minutes, offering a rather huge complexity. Apricots covered with caramel, peaches poached in sweet wine (PX), some perfect artisan milk chocolate, black nougat, notes of Turkish delights, mocha, liquorice… It really is a wonderful nose, with no signs of tiredness whatsoever after eighty-five years. Reminds me of some old jazzmen in that respect. Mouth: just a touch of tannic oak in the beginning of the arrival, but the fruits instantly take over in a beautiful manner. Various oranges, the usual peaches, some liquorice, a good few aromatic flowers (haven’t we mentioned wormwood before?) plus some pink grapefruit that prevents the oak from fighting back. More and more bitter chocolate, cracked pepper, tobacco (like Gauloise), dry molasses… But then again, the fresh fruits would never give up. It’s almost Federer vs. Nadal on our palates. Funny touches of cumin and cloves emerging after a good five minutes. Finish: long, surprisingly tense and citrusy, almost acidic. The same cloves and cumin remain in the aftertaste. Comments: not very fruit but absolutely fantastic, if still a little rough and tannic at times. These old Cognacs will never, ever die – contrarily to most malt whiskies, who would probably be flat dead, or at least pure oak juice at this ripe old age. Incredible work by Grosperrin, sourcing these old glories throughout the countryside (while avoiding the gunshots, ha-ha).
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
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November 2019 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Jura 1989/2019 (53.5%, OB, Rare Vintage, bourbon, 1,500 bottles) - WF91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Bladnoch 32 yo 1958/1990 (44.5%, Duthies)- WF93
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Balblair 8 yo 2011/2019 (57.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 648 bottles) - WF89
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Worthy Park 2017/2019 (67%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky, Jamaica, single cask) - WF91
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Suntory Brandy ‘V.O.’ (37%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?) - WF18 |
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November 30, 2019 |
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Angus's Corner
From our casual Scottish correspondent
and guest taster Angus MacRaild |
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| Liquid Irish History |
| It’s been a while since I’ve done an exclusive Irish session. I always enjoy older bottlings of Irish Whiskey. Even if they aren’t always technically as thrilling as their Scottish counterparts from similar eras, they very clearly exhibit their own style and are always quite fun and instructive to taste. |
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John Power & Son ‘3 Swallows’ Pure Pot Still (43%, OB, -/+ 1950)
There’s not too much info on this one, but we can be certain that it comes from the old John’s Lane Distillery. Indeed, it would have been distilled entirely through pot stills as it seems that they only added a column in 1961. Colour: light gold. Nose: Like many of these very old Irish bottles the immediate impression is of a fusion of OBE - metal polish, soot, porridge - and some rather specific older Irish Whiskey characteristics. In this case mechanical oils, root vegetables, orange cordial, paraffin and steel wool. Teeters between metallic and greasy with some very light fruity notes which fade in and out. Impressive and charismatic old stuff. In time it really starts to open up with gentle waxiness, dusty old book jackets, old copper coins, celeriac and mineral oil. Mouth: impressive texture and delivery. All on white pepper, canvas, ink, charcoal and some notes of plain porridge and bread dough. Goes on with caraway, some lighter cereal tones and lamp oil. Very old school in profile and nicely distinct from Scottish whiskies of the same era. Finish: a bit short but rather dry, oily and mineral with a hint of citrus peel. Comments: cleaves very close to this rathe classical old Irish pure pot style. The more I have of these sorts of bottles the more I enjoy them; I would love to find an example bottled at full strength to see how this sort of make holds up over decades with a bit more oomph.
SGP: 451 - 84 points. |
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John Power & Son 7 yo (43%, OB, 1960s)
This one should theoretically be 50s distillate. Probably distilled after the previous one was bottled. Colour: yellowy gold. Nose: bolder, richer and sweeter but also far more herbal and liqueurish. Like old verbena liqueur perhaps. Some unusual notes of curry leaf, mustard powder and soot. But there’s also more familiar tropes such as metal polish and these mechanical oily notes. Keeps developing along this line of bitter herbal qualities which I really enjoy. Mouth: funnily enough you notice the wood presence more here - understandably given the age statement. There’s almost a more modern note of green pepper and sawdust but it’s very slight and bound up in all these caraway, fennel and lemon cough medicines. Hints of pine sap, menthol tobaccos and limoncello. Funny and very entertaining. Finish: longer, more nippy and peppery than the previous one. More sooty, autolytic and mineral notes. Comments: This one feels a tad fresher and punchier so it goes up a notch technically in my book. But there’s a nice overall sense of cohesion between the flavour profiles of the two bottlings. Interesting to note the more pronounced wood influence.
SGP: 561 - 86 points. |
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Let’s head over to Bow Street… |
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John Jameson & Son 7 yo (40%, OB, 1950s)
Interestingly, this one states on the rear label “The materials used in its manufacture are MALTING BARLEY, WHEAT AND OATS”. Why do I feel like I’m being shouted at in a thick Irish accent? Colour: gold. Nose: fascinating. In some ways were very close to the Powers 7yo with this liqueurish and herbal profile but here it’s more concentrated, syrupy and slightly fruity with tinned exotic fruit syrups. Also some notes of black coffee, red fruit teas and spiced mango chutney. There’s a little of this metal polish and sooty quality too but it’s more restrained here. Mouth: ooooh! Superb arrival, all on exotic fruit teas, lemon peel, cough medicines, herbal liqueur, soft waxes, putty, lemon barley water and the refreshing tannin of black tea. I find this really quite excellent. Finish: medium and showing a metallic waxy quality, some grassy rapeseed oil and a few seeds and cereals. Comments: I love the fruitiness that this one retains - a higher malt component in the mash? Anyway, this is probably about as good as these old official Irish Whiskeys can get I suspect. Would kill to try this at cask strength.
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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John Jameson & Son 12 yo (43%, OB Italian import, mid-1960s)
It’s surprising in some ways that the Italians didn’t take more keenly to these Irish Whiskeys at the time, their profiles seem like a natural fit for anyone with a taste for 5yo Glen Grant or Grappa… Colour: pale gold. Nose: very good, we’re opening on bitter orange marmalade with coriander, fruit salad juices, cereals, herbal cough medicines, quince and even a wee kumquat. There’s an added layer of complexity and integration here, no doubt due to the extra age, but also some characteristics that might be classed as more ‘generically old school’. By which I mean you could almost be nosing an old 1970s bottle of Auchentoshan 12yo - maybe… Anyway, it’s a harmonious and superbly elegant old nose. Mouth: Cocktail bitters, white pepper, camphor, hessian, waxes, chalk and limestone. This mix of plain minerality, dry waxiness, light dustiness and light warming mustard and peppery quality make for quite a pleasurable drop. Although, it doesn’t quite have the fruity panache of the 7yo. Finish: Good length, nicely bitter, drying and full of bitter citrus fruits, specifically grapefruit peel and a hint of tarragon. Comments: I like it a lot, it’s an easy one to nose and sip and we’re still firmly in ‘old Irish’ territory. I think it doesn’t quite match the more opulent cheekiness of the 7yo though.
SGP: 551 - 87 points. |
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Now, from ‘young old’ to ‘old old’… |
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Knappogue Castle 36 yo 1951/1987 (40%, OB, sherry casks) 
Distilled at the old Tullamore Distillery which was mothballed in 1954. I know this bottle will set you back a few pennies at auction, but imagine if it was from a similarly long lost Scottish distillery. Make of that what you will. Colour: light amber. Nose: what’s funny is that even with all these extra and evidently older layers on top, there’s still this rather clear ‘Irish’ accent on the nose. Lots of tangerine and marmalade mixed with coal dust, hessian, cloves, olive oil, marzipan and brown bread. Very good but perhaps a tad light. Mouth: hmmm, a little flat and dusty on arrival. Good but a bit cardboardy. Some nice mineral oil notes along with wet grains, orange cordial, green herbal teas and a soft, dusty waxiness. Finish: Medium but on the shortish side. Some notes of mirabelle, lemon peel and quince with a bitter herbal note in the aftertaste. Comments: There’s plenty to enjoy here, and the historical heft is not lost on me. It’s just that I tend to prefer the much more playful and fun ‘old youngsters’ than these longer matured old Irish.
SGP: 550 - 80 points. |
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It would seem remiss not to have a couple of modern day Irish Whiskeys to finish… |
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Irish Single Malt 13 yo ‘Batch 2’ (48.4%, That Boutique-y Whisky Co, 2200 bottles)
Shout out to all the Father Ted fans. Colour: white wine. Nose: pure pears! Pears, pears, pears and did I mention pears? You could also find some rather elegant grassy notes, green apple peelings and some kind of custard made with poire williams. Pear drops sweets melted in a pan with nail varnish remover. That sounds terrible but it’s not meant to be. Mouth: Guess what? PEARS! (says the loud Jameson rep from the 1950s) Seriously, this is more pears than a Perry orchard. There’s some lemon, some grass, some rapeseed oil and perhaps a little vanilla syrup. But mainly it’s about the pears. Finish: Medium, quite cereal and featuring pears. Comments: Pears. No, seriously, it’s very good and wonderfully green and fruity. It’s just a little lopsided towards, well, pears.
SGP: 630 - 83 points. |
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An Irish 10 yo 2006/2019 (47.4%, Cadenhead Small Batch, 2 bourbon hogsheads, 648 bottles)
You may note the discrepancy between age and vintage / bottling year. This is almost certainly due to the legality that Irish Whiskey is only as old as the number of years it matures in Ireland. Hence the 10yo age statement from Cadenhead. How very ‘them’ - if I may. Colour: white wine. Nose: surprisingly different. This could almost be vendange tardive pinot gris with these light and toasty honeyed notes wrapped around minerals and some slightly salty mead. Quite a departure from all the others. Pretty unusual and rather good I think. Notes of putty, chalk and something akin to lemon-infused goat cheese. Mouth: rather peppery and fruity on arrival. Exotic fruit yoghurts, mango lassi, lemongrass, chai tea, kumquat and unusual fruits like kiwi and star fruit. Some olive oil and toasty cereals. Finish: good length, again nicely peppery, citrusy, grassy and mineral. Comments: Very good! Great and unusual selection by Cadenhead. Worth trying if you can find it. I really enjoy this quite unusual and oh so Irish fruit profile.
SGP: 640 - 88 points. |
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What I really enjoyed about this wee tasting was that while there are quite distinctive differences between the older Irish pure pot still whiskeys and their contemporary single malt counterparts, the overall impression remains one of distinctiveness. It often feels quite evident that you’re drinking an Irish Whiskey - something Scotland could do well to learn a thing or two from on occasion. |
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Big hugs to Martin for the old ones! |
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November 29, 2019 |
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Little duos,
today Caperdonich 23 years old |
And why not! Caperdonich is becoming scarce these days, now I have to say I’ve never come across some that were anywhere near the very stellar 1972s. Remember Pernod closed Caperdonich for good in 2002, while the buildings have been demolished eight years later. |
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Caperdonich 23 yo 1994/2017 (50.7%, S-Spirits Shop Selection, bourbon hogshead, cask #88858, 197 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s got absolutely nothing to do with the perfect 1972s indeed, as this is rather rough spirit, with leaves, bitter almonds, green tea and whiffs of green peppers, and in the background, some kind of pot-pourri. With water: whiffs of putty and fresh pine sap, then yeast and fresh rye bread. Mouth (neat): really rough, and rather on raw eaux-de-vie, kirsch, plums… Always loads of grass and green teas as well, and a pungent side that wouldn’t go away. With water: a little rounder and fruitier (cherries) but the pretty grassy bitterness keeps control. Some cinchona, something prickly on your tongue… Finish: rather long and really peppery. More green pepper and more leafy notes. Comments: I thought this baby was pretty difficult, although I won’t deny that there’s something appealing in this rather extreme peppery austerity.
SGP:361 - 78 points. |
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Caperdonich 23 yo 1995/2018 (58.4%, Signatory Vintage, 30th Anniversary, cask #95050, refill sherry hogshead, 265 bottles)
I’ll say it again, what a wonderful collection that was! Couldn’t we keep celebrating for a wee while?... Colour: gold. Nose: there’s something austere again, such as leaves and grasses, but this time we’ll also find struck matches and quite some black earth and moss as well as some menthol, but all that would slowly go away, leaving more room for notes of dark pancake syrup, glazed chestnuts, and a little sweet and moist pumpernickel. With water: lemon squash and lemongrass, jelly babies, and Kougelhopf dough. Mouth (neat): big and strong, this is almost manzanilla and limoncello, fifty-fifty. And some artisanal (and lethal) kirsch to push that towards these 58%. Notes of Fernet-Branca, artichoke, Campari… With water: does a U-turn and gets much, much fruitier. More jelly babies, lemon drops, Fanta… Finish: long, and back on Campari and other bitter liquids. Fresh marzipan in the aftertaste. Comments: careful with water. It’s not a very easy drop, you rather have to work on it, but it would then deliver once you’ve found the right amount of water.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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November 27, 2019 |
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Little duos, today very good Glendullan |
As I may have said before, I enjoy tasting these young underdogs as much as I like trying some 1975 Ardbegs or 1976 Lagavulins. Perhaps not 1972 Broras, let’s not exaggerate… |
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Glendullan 7 yo 2010/2018 (59.9%, Master of Malt, bourbon, cask #10161)
We shall expect some high extraction here, as well as litres of café latte. Colour: white wine. Nose: not at all, this is as fresh as a daisy in the morning, and just shock full of fresh pears, gooseberries, and plums, then fruity IPAs. You were wrong again, S. With water: pure barley eau-de-vie. But rather a good sketch than a bad picture, as they say in Taos, New-Mexico. Mouth (neat): williams pears and some sweet ale, that’s the whole story here. Baby whisky, really. With water: more of all that insolent youth, rather on beers than on fruits this time. Finish: medium, and rather on, hurray, café latte! Proud as a peacock. Comments: rather immature, but pretty perfect in its simplicity. Reminds me of a few new OBs, but those are rather advertised as NAS. Because seven, that’s no deal.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
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Glendullan 1996/2018 (50.8%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS18027, 271 bottles)
A rather older Glendullan, that’s interesting. Colour: gold. Nose: We’re rather geared towards menthol cigarettes here, as well as patchouli and various herbal teas, before it would then rather drift towards plum cakes, very ripe greengages, and some kind of good stout from Bonnie Scotland. With water: wonderful malt, chocolate, tobacco, and sweet meat sauces. The one some mothers would pour over meatballs. English brown sauce? Mouth (neat): ginger wine, chocolate, Jaffa cakes, cloves, tapioca, Buckfast wine, chestnut honey… Indeed, it’s very different, and pretty unusual. And much to my liking, it’s got ‘old flavours’ that no one on the continent would like to encounter anymore. No, I did not mention Marmite and other loco yeast extracts. Oh and chicory/chicorée. With water: excellent! Malt extracts, chocolate, more chicory drink, pipe tobacco, rancio, oloroso… This baby had a lot of things to tell us. Finish: long, rather on raw chocolate and marmalade, but the yeasty/umami-y notes would not give up. Brilliant. Comments: top notch, bordering the 90-mark. This was some hoggie.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Magellanic Cloud #1 2009/2019 ‘116° U.2.1' 1897.2’ (58.7%, Scotch Universe, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead)
This one’s said to be Glendullan, but I wouldn’t bet on that. What’s sure is that the very honourable bottlers do like figures – and astronomy. Colour: gold. Nose: nothing tells me that this is not Glendullan. There are similarities with the wonderful MoS, except that this is shier, gentler, and rather more on plants and herbs. I’m thinking broken branches, asparagus, then raw chocolate, nuts, green tea, perhaps carrots? But it tends to become more ‘sherried’ indeed, with fresh walnuts playing first fiddle. With water: perfect oloroso (could have been amontillado too). A pinhead of Marmite yet again, tobacco, walnut wine, and all that jazz. Mouth (neat): indeed, same family as that of the MoS, except that this one’s the more turbulent younger brother. Bags of ginger, curry-like flavours, caraway, juniper, raw chocolate, walnut skins… With water: it’s got a little ‘sulphur’ now, of the meatier kind that we always enjoy in, for example, sherried Mortlach. Other than that, always more walnut, cracked pepper, caraway, cloves, bitter oranges. Finish: more of all that, for a long time. Comments: raw stuff, a tad boisterous. I’m all for that.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
We’ll soon do a few official Singletons, stay tuned… |
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November 26, 2019 |
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Little duos, today very loco-loco
Glenturret again |
Because look, indeed you may wonder, was Glenturret always this whacky? There’s only one way to find out… (yeah I made a phone call to my insurer.) |
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Glenturret ‘Tayside’ (43%, OB, rotation 1978) 
Well, the brand’s website now claims that Glenturret was established in 1775, but this old official bottling rather used to state 1776. Now is that really important? Of course not, it was probably all illicit anyway back then. Let’s fasten our seatbelts… Colour: gold. Nose: fusel oil, eraser, ink, plasticine, soap, and ‘dead oyster’. Very difficult, if you ask me, so let’s not insist... Mouth: sweet Mary and Joseph, what is this? Dead animals, plastic, candles, old shoes, paint thinner, sauerkraut, stale lime juice… In truth, this is just undrinkable – and yeah, almost unthinkable. Finish: pretty long, and unexpectedly salty. Shrimps fed on plastic waste. Comments: almost a nightmare, but in a way, it's fun to try. Many old Glenturret OBs were a bit like this, so careful if you ever spot ‘bargains’ at auction houses. Long story short: urgh! Did some Scots make this? Now it’s true that the Scots also do square sausage… (ha!)
SGP:273 - 25 points. |
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Glenturret 23 yo 1994/2018 (50.7%, Artful Dodger Collective, PX octave, cask #618)
What a difficult exercise this may have been… Will the little octave have saved this (possibly) very deviant whisky? Colour: gold. Nose: funny. Bacon, coal smoke, new car engine, capers, suet, brake fluid, ink, carbon paper, rusty iron… It’s not that this doesn’t work, it’s just pretty unusual. But this is Glenturret, is it not… With water: following an old Jaguar. Blimey, those stupid carburettors! And diesel fuel. Mouth (neat): what a funny baby indeed. The main difference with the old Tayside is that you could drink this one, provided you’re not afraid of grass juice, leaves, green walnuts, liquid soap (pine-scented), cider vinegar, extreme manzanilla, and yeah, ink. With water: die-hard manzanilla (or vin jaune) freaks would manage to drink, and even enjoy this. Normal persons, just go your way. Finish: long and, cough, soapier and more vinegary. Challenging. Comments: this really is heretic whisky, possibly only for fidgety hipsters, I would say. Or manzanilla fanatics. Or both, hipsters who’re into manzanilla; yes I know a few.
SGP:261 - 75 points. |
PS: rinse your glasses twice! |
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November 25, 2019 |
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Little duos, today Glenturret |
Glenturret’s some action malt, shall we say. Did you know it’s now in the skilled hands of the owners of Lalique crystal? Now, we must try a newish NAS ‘Triple Wood’ now, which is pretty scary if you ask me. No age statement and a lot of oaks, what can go wrong? |
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Glenturret ‘Triple Wood’ (40%, OB, +/-2019)
What’s more, it’s a finishing. Colour: gold. Nose: well, I do not dislike this. It’s obviously very young, it’s full of bread and sawdust, as well as sour pastries, porridge and grist, and to tell you the truth, you’d rather believe this was made by some craft hipsters/distillers somewhere near Santa Fe. Or Ulan Bator. Or Buenos Aires. Mouth: same feelings. Beer, yeast, dough, sawdust, tapioca, sour mead, and guess what, malted barley. Finish: medium, with a sawdust that really starts to feel a little too much. Cinnamon and cardboard. Comments: some aspects are extremely fine, it’s just a little too ‘crafty’ for me. But I find this very encouraging, it’s almost as if one of, if not the oldest distillery in Scotland had started it all over again.
SGP:351 - 79 points. |
Let’s check an older one… |
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Glenturret 30 yo 1988/2018 (52.4%, Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary, cask #532, hogshead, 234 bottles)
Angus already tried this one for these modest pages, but let’s not be influenced… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s well one of those older ‘lol’ Glenturrets, blending varnish with sour vegetables and meats. Big savoury notes, Maggi, soy sauce, oyster sauce, onion soup, then rather game, leather, horse saddle… Horse saddles have always been very ‘Glenturret’ in my book. With water: pinecones and needles, poultry, moist pipe tobacco, Vicks embrocations, and really a lot of menthol as well as some very earthy, pu-ehr-type tea. Mouth (neat): orange squash, paint, perhaps even acetone, very old sauvignon blanc, grapefruits, rotting oranges, yeast extracts… I know you see what I mean. Glenturret. With water: leather, amontillado, tobacco, carboard, and plastic, then raspberry drops. Very mad whisky, I wouldn’t say it’s got a lot of, say, focus. Finish: long and weird, a little acetic (balsamico) and full of rotting fruits, with a slightly sulphury ending. Which is very Glenturret indeed. Comments: totally loco malt whisky that goes into strictly all directions, except smoke. Almost impossible to score, could be 70, could be 80, could be 90. Let’s remain Cartesian…
SGP:472 - 80 points. |
Good, I’ve now checked, and it looks like Angus rated it 92! Here, it takes all sorts to make a world. |
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November 24, 2019 |
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White Sunday rums, still looking for malternatives |
Will the quest ever be over? Let’s have a few unusual ones… |
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Veritas (47%, Velier, blend, 2019)
A white blend of ex-column Foursquare and Hampden (ex-pot still, obviously) poured into an old Chartreuse V.E.P. look-alike bottle. A tribute, I suppose. Let’s see if we find some wormwood, or artemisia in there… Colour: extremely pale white wine. Nose: the Jamaican seems to be having the upper hand, as we’re finding obvious notes of new wellies, Ardbeg (yep), some burnt sugar, and some kind of sweeter olive brine. Some shoe polish and burnt sugar too. Mouth: lemons, limoncello and lemon marmalade at first (nope that’s not kind of the same thing), then fresh ginger and pepper. It’s very spicy, much spicier than spiced rum, which is usually very sweet (don’t ask, the world of rum is full of contradictions). What’s troubling is that I’m also finding notes of aniseed-led herbal liqueur that, indeed, may hint at Chartreuse, but I’m sure that’s just my mind playing tricks on me. Finish: rather long, appropriately roughish, and pretty sweet, if not a tad sugary, quite curiously. But after all, Chartreuse is sweet too. Comments: in rum as well, veritas veritatis et omnia veritas (way too easy, S.)
SGP:562 - 85 points.
Update: there is a little pot still Foursquare inside too |
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O Reizinho 2015/2019 (45%, Latitudes, Madeira, white agricole, 1200 bottles)
Let’s not forget that just like Martinique, Madeira has got a proper agricole appellation. This white rum could rest in a vat for four years. Colour: white. Nose: lovable nose, first on cut hay in an old barn, then on woodruff and patchouli, then rather on plasticine, graphite oil and pickled onions. It’s very singular and pretty subtle, going more towards elderflowers after two minutes or three. Mouth: pure cane juice at first, then something earthy (old pot, sandstone) and notes of bitter oranges, citronella, and perhaps a little oregano, or is that tarragon? (no, not Chartreuse this time!) Very good. Finish: medium, with rather more liquorice wood and more minerals. A feeling of blood orange and sweeter olive oil in the aftertaste. Comments: I’m a fan of Madeiran rums, it’s great to have something different and really natural. Oh, yes, Madeira belongs to Portugal.
SGP:452 - 85 points. |
Well, we did quite a few Japanese brandies the other day, why not do a few Japanese white rums? |
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Nine Leaves ‘Clear 2013’ (50%, Japan, white) 
From Okinawa. Some wrote that this was made out of muscovado sugar, so that’s neither cane juice, nor even molasses. I suppose they moisten/dilute some raw, unrefined sugar and let that ferment, and then distil. Not too sure… Colour: white. Nose: not quite silent, but rather vodka-ish I would say – at first sniffing – while very light touches of lime and acerola seem to emerge over time. I would say we’re rather between some very light gin and some vodka. I wouldn’t say there’s much more happening than in a John and Yoko movie. Mouth: fine but indeed, rather on lemon and juniper, and not much on anything cane-y. Not sure anyone would recognise rum. Perhaps a touch of sake, since we’re in Japan? Tutti-frutti eau-de-vie? Finish: medium, sugary – not properly sweet - and slightly lemony. Comments: nice-ish but extremely expensive, and rather too spirity for me. And it’s not all about ‘purity’, despite what some would like us to believe.
SGP:441 - 68 points. |
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Kyomi (40%, OB, Japan, white, +/-2019?)
This one too comes from Okinawa, it’s even ‘Pure beauty of Okinawa’, as stated on the label. It’s much less expensive than the Nine Leaves (like 35€ vs. 80€) and stems from Helios Distillery, where they make the very good Reki pure malt (WF 82) and the excellent Teeda rum (WF 86) – as well as some cheaper sourced boozes not worth mentioning. Colour: white. Nose: oh yeah, coconut water and diesel oil over crushed olives and rotting bananas. All perfect. Really! Mouth: starts dirty-ish, with rotting fruits (not quite the same thing as rotten fruits) and gets then more tarry and on polishes, plasticine, engine oil… In the background, some salt, some brine, some olives. Finish: only medium, that’s because of the strength. Higher, please! Comments: as singular and idiosyncratic as the Madeiran. Clap clap clap… But frankly, who still does 40% vol. these days, unless forced by law? That makes it a tad weak, sadly.
SGP:452 - 83 points. |
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Kikusui Kochi ‘Seven Seas’ (40%, +/-2019?)
This one’s pretty cheap, around 23€ in Japan, and matured for 3 years. Some retailers on ze Internet are trying to sell it for 199€. Now careful, there are other Seven Seas rums around the world, I see that they have one in Mauritius, for example. It seems that this one’s made by some sake makers in Kuroshio, but not too sure… I also think it’s related to Ryoma, which is an excellent rum in my book. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: back on moderately aromatic, err, aromas. A little fermentary (dough, yeast) and a tad dirty (wet dust), perhaps… But these bready touches are pleasant. I’m also finding whiffs of elderflowers again, just like in the Madeiran. Mouth: good! Lemon beer, does that exist? Touches of vanilla, drops of brine, this very feeling of good sake, some fresh biscuits, touches of salt… There’s a little sugar as well, but we’re fine since lemons are running the show. Finish: medium, with unexpected wee touches of bacon, perhaps something a little ‘umami’, then back on vanilla, bread and lemon. Comments: another very good Japanese rum. Very happy about that.
SGP:441 - 82 points. |
In theory, we should have stopped, but since we’ve mentioned umami, there’s this thing that I’ve got on my shelves and never dared try… |
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Audemus Umami (42%, OB, spirit, France, +/-2015)
Apparently, some very mad compatriots have distilled capers, and blended the end result with neutral spirit. So technically speaking, this is ‘nothing’, that is to say just ‘spirit’. Stuff for mad mixologists and boozers that already tried everything, in other words. Wish me luck… Colour: white. Nose: first and foremost, eggplants, then charcoal, some kind of smoked soap, samphire, coffee, and perhaps truffles. It is not unpleasant, quite the contrary, just hard to ‘locate’. Mouth: some sweetness, and a lot of gentian. Did they add any gentian? Basically, this is almost Suze at a higher strength, while I’m not finding anything properly ‘umami’. No real savoury notes, no glutamate, no soy sauce, no malt extract, no matured tofu… Finish: medium, rather sweet, with even more gentian. Comments: it’s a very fine experiment, I know some Alsatian distillers who would make this kind too. I remember, for example, some celeriac eau-de-vie by Metté. Wasn’t it Metté?
SGP:550 - 75 points. |
Good, we’ve had enough playing today! |
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November 22, 2019 |
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Time warp session, today Balblair again |
Indeed I thought we should have another go a the new ‘AS’ range (as opposed to VS, vintage statements). We’ll first select the new 15, and then see what we can find in the ‘older’ boxes… |
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Balblair 15 yo (46%, OB, +/-2019)
This baby’s supposed to be ‘tropical and mature’, according to their website. Well, were I a proper whisky preacher wearing a large hat, I would now mention a chica that I once met in a shady bar in Manaus and… Certainly not! Colour: gold. Nose: so much difference from the 12! So much more traditional Balblairness, with that peculiar fruit salad sprinkled with honey and vanilla sauce… Melons, bananas, apples, oranges, guavas, fresh mint leaves, white chocolate… Nutshell: Balblair. So, I was once in Manaus when the… Oh come on! Mouth: very good, very Balblair, full of fruits, custard, corn syrup, white chocolate, caramel, syrups, oranges… It just tends to become a little spirity and pretty hot – hot like that girl whom I met in Manaus while… Erm, apologies. Finish: rather long, still a tad too warming, perhaps, but all the rest is rather perfect. As perfect as that… <censored>… Comments: no, sorry, never been to Manaus, and neither do I wear tropical hats under our temperate climates. Temperate so far…
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
So an older bottling… why not this?... |
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Balblair 10 yo (100° proof, Gordon & MacPhail, 75cl, +/-1978)
G&M have had some stunning Balblairs, so our hopes are super-high now… Colour: brownish amber. Nose: this is Cognac, not malt whisky. There’s a huge rancio, a lot of metal polish, bags of old walnuts, quite a few Cuban puros, and just piles of flints. Forgot to mention very black chocolate, like 100% cocoa, and some very old amontillado. With water: pure oloroso-y goodness. Amazing rancio, walnuts, old lathers and tobaccos, furniture polish, and just more walnuts again. Walnuts just everywhere. Mouth (neat): sweet John Coltrane! It’s all on green walnuts, tobacco, meat broths, very bitter oranges, and yeah, green walnuts. Tends to try to take your tongue hostage, having said that, so careful… With water: loves water, gets slightly softer, displays more oranges, both bitter and regular, and naturally, always with huge numbers of walnuts. Superb dry sherry all around. Finish: long, really a lot on proper chocolate and walnut, and always with rancio in the aftertaste. Comments: masterly, this is why sherried whiskies became so popular. But there is sherry and there is sherry (look where that's got us!)
SGP:362 - 92 points. |
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November 21, 2019 |
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Little Duos, today young Balblair |
Should we expect a basket of fresh fruits? Ideal when the weather’s getting colder… As far as concept and packaging are concerned, Balblair just fell in line, just like Glenrothes. No more vintage goodness, back to traditional age statements. Not that we would complain mind you, after all that’s better than going NAS. Let’s have the (relatively) new 12, and then find an IB… |
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Balblair 12 yo (46%, OB, +/-2019)
Mixed feelings here and there, especially amongst the glitteratti and chatteratti of whisky, but let’s see… Colour: white wine. Nose: not the same Balblair, I hate to say, much more on porridge and cut apples, perhaps white currants, but with less roundness and expressive fruits than in the younger vintages. Cider, touches of fennel, rhubarb, all that’s pretty nice, though. Mouth: more tangy fresh apples, a little vanilla, more sweet cider, hints of grist and even flour, getting a little sweet-and-sour, not unlike some of the Gueuze beers. Also notes of lemon pie, covered with meringue s’il-vous-plaît, but the whole tends to become a little grassy and bitter, with quite some cinnamon. Finish: medium, maltier, with notes of white peaches and vanilla. Comments: I wouldn’t say it’s sheltering a lot of clean fruity Balblairness, but it sure is a very fine malt, while only a few geeks may complain.
SGP:441 - 79 points. |
So we said a young independent Balblair… That’s become a little uncommon, has it not? Well you can always count on… |
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Balblair 8 yo 2011/2019 (57.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 648 bottles)
Why so young? Well, this was actually one puncheon that’s been re-racked into two 1st fill sherry hogsheads in 2017, both seemingly re-married when disgorged this year. Ah, nothing beats family life! Colour: straw. Nose: fresh milk and butter, a little mustard and dry Madeira wine, fresh walnuts, iodine and aspirin, bandages, tapioca… I find this extremely intriguing, but first fill sherry, really? Was it fino? With water: maize bread, mustard, and natural wine! (macerated whites). Mouth (neat): some funny little beast for sure. Same flavours, more or less, mustard, cinchona, walnuts, chalk, prickly pears, artichokes, some salt… Wait, manzanilla? With water: same flavours, more or less, with in addition, just both a little sweetness and a little pepper. Finish: long like a great fino by Equipo Navazos. Just opened a Bota 54 de Fino the other day, pristine fino! Pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: this funny baby destroyed its official counterpart, I’m afraid. Sadly, I love this bone-dry style of whisky, and here we have more proof that in certain cases, excellence knows no age. What a great little whisky by Cadenhead!
SGP: 371- 89 points. |
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November 20, 2019 |
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Little duos, today red-wine
finished Aberfeldy |
There’s this brand new 15 with its rather spectacular Château-Palmer-like gold-on-black label, and then we’ll try a moderately-packaged indie… |
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Aberfeldy 15 yo ‘French Red Wine’ (43%, OB, batch #2919, 2019)
This new baby was finished in ‘French red wine cask from Pomerol Bordeaux’. So no Palmer, which is a Margaux as you well know, rather some extravagant merlot, I suppose. Colour: apricot. Nose: no and it’s funny that instead of some rich prune-y notes, it’s rather menthol that would come out, then verbena and wormwood, even pinesap, and then indeed, cherries, but it’s certainly not pinot-noir-y… I find this pretty attractive, and more complex et subtle than your average ‘red-wined’ malt whisky. No sour stems or leaves either, no spent lees… . Mouth: this is malt whisky. I’m not kidding, we’ve come across many such finished whiskies that had become proper wineskies. Very pleasant notes of raspberry ganache (okay, that’s the wine) over pumpernickel, pipe tobacco, Linzertorte, and then a wee cracked pepper/cloves combination. It seems that they’ve monitored the proceedings very closely, like the milk on the stove, as we say. Great balance – they’ve managed to convince me, more or less. Finish: rather long, the 43% never feel, it’s kept good body, without ever getting too jammy. Comments: not quite a Pétrus of malt whisky but I’m rather impressed, while I had first put my pistols on the tasting table. But please, no amarone!... ;-)
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
So, another wine… I mean, another Aberfeldy… |
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Aberfeldy 2000/2018 (50.7%, Malts of Scotland, finished in a Marsala hogshead, cask #MoS18029, 321 bottles)
Marsala stems from Sicily, and comes in all colours. So was this red or white? Let’s try to find out… Colour: apricot, so possibly red. Nero d’Avola? Nose: it’s much more ‘creative’ than the official, whatever that may mean, but not excessive either, so pretty well mastered. Sour cherries, strawberry jam, pumpernickel again, a wee hint of molasses, blood oranges, and then, quite unexpectedly, rather a lot of cured ham. Iberico or Italian, I couldn’t tell you. No sulphur whatsoever, just saying. With water: as always, it would get earthier, almost a little muddy, but there’s also a much unexpected peatiness coming out. Wait, peat? Mouth (neat): it’s rather rougher than the OB, with more stems and leaves, pepper, sour herbs, rosehip, also blood oranges aplenty, pomegranates, perhaps tamarind… There’s no proper clash, but there are some wee fights between the wine and the whisky, with the cask as the arbiter of elegance. With water: takes water very well, not the case with all red-wine finished whiskies. Cherry cake. Finish: medium, a little sour. Fortified mulled wine and sangria – or something like that. Comments: I would say the OB was a little better integrated and less leafy, but they’re extremely close. Red wine, pff…
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
Didn’t I just give high scores to two middle-aged red-wine finished malt whiskies? What’s happening? Am I getting soft? (Never!) |
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November 19, 2019 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today the top of Bladnoch
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No new bottlings this time, but why would we have to try so many new releases? This is not public service, mind you! And we’ll avoid the terrible official ‘cubistic’ bottlings of recent times, thought they were, yeah, pretty terrible… (wrongly finished and insanely priced). |
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Bladnoch 22 yo 1992/2014 (51.6%, The Nectar of The Daily Dram)
This one by our inenarrable Belgian friends. I promise we won’t mention football. Colour: straw. Nose: starts a little ‘regular’, with good maltiness and some pleasant touches of some kind of sooty porridge, but the expected lemony notes do make an appearance after one minute or so, between fresh tangerines and just English marmalade. Some paraffin. With water: some lemon zests and some paraffin. This is extremely Bladnoch. Mouth (neat): a funny salty start, it’s almost as if we’re having some oak-aged margarita of some sort. Perfect citrons and lemons after that, notes of citric IPA, and then a huge lemon pie covered with tons of meringue. So very Bladnoch indeed. With water: a little perfume, soap, lavender… But nothing too serious. Careful with water. Finish: rather long, and reminiscent of some kind of oak-aged limoncello matured in Napoli. But who would do that? Comments: top-of-game Bladnoch, typically citrusy and very excellent. Frankly, who would dump this into wine wood?
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Bladnoch 32 yo 1958/1990 (44.5%, Duthies)
A very rare bottling for sure, now I’ve tried a black dumpy 1958 by parent company Cadenhead a few years back, which had been just stellar (WF 92). But that was in 2007… Colour: deep gold. Nose: shall we call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade now, or wait a little longer? This is just astounding, in fact, with an unusual mixture with crystallised tangerines and lemons, some amazing bergamots, some crushed fresh almonds, and just a wee touch of old menthol liqueur. The kind that our ancestors used to take after a long and heavy meal. This nose is simply exceptional, getting earthy, herbal, and extremely complex. Old pinewood. Leaves you speechless. Mouth: oh sweet Vishnu! Embrocations, fir and tar liqueurs, bergamots and kumquats, bitter herbal liqueur (ever tried old Unicum?), and some garage-y stuff, between oils, waxes and greases. Finish: tends to keep exploding on your palate, with an avalanche of pine-y and sappy flavours. We could mention many old liqueurs, Verveine, Génépy, Chartreuse, Bénédictine; well I’m sure you get the idea. Comments: miraculous old whisky. Its contemporary brothers can be fabulous as well, but never quite as miraculous, because by law, consistency erases chance. Do not discuss.
SGP:471 - 93 points. |
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November 18, 2019 |
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Little duos, today Deanston
indie vs. official |
A little name that’s not that little anymore. The owners are sometimes pushing the limits of ‘whoot’ teknohhlogy’ (with a Glaswegian accent), but that can be good fun as long as merlot - and perhaps PX - is kept at bay ;-). |
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Deanston 10 yo 2008/2019 (56.6%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 276 bottles)
This might be raw. Colour: white wine. Nose: typical distillate-driven Cadenhead, this time with bags of tangerines and a saucerful of muesli (no secrets here), then rather classic chalks and lemons. It’s rather delicate, in fact, well-carved, precise… And just lovable, in fact. With water: fresh oriental bread, with a little aniseed and orange blossom water, and honeysuckle in the background. Sweet Vishnu, Deanston! Mouth (neat): a blend of fresh mirabelle and pear juices at first, then more on some IPA, with a citrusy hoppiness. Impeccable unflavoured young barley eau-de-vie from some good stills. With water: absolutely pristine, excellently fruity, with a very fresh and not-too-yeasty breadiness. Notes of flower syrup too. Mullein? Finish: medium, very clean, with more honeyness. Comments: a fantastic and authentic (no wonder it’s in this collection) young distillate-forward malt whisky, almost spiritual. Much more refined than expected.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Deanston 15 yo ‘Sauternes finish’ (57.3%, OB, 1194 bottles, 2018)
I suppose this will be the opposite of the Cad, let’s see… Colour: rich gold. Nose: I say well done, this is not only a bath of apricots, roses and plums, while the relation to the ultra-clean Cad remains obvious. Touches of bouillons, heather honey and mead, chutneys, sour-sweet sauces, then flowers (honeysuckle and heather indeed) and just fresh malt bread. So far, so good. With water: a little menthol coming out, which is not uncommon in some sweet wines (Sauternes, Monbazillac, Jurançon…) Mouth (neat): perhaps a tad more difficult for a short while, with quite a lot of ginger and green wood spices, as well as a wee soapy side that may come from a few grams of sulphur. But all that tends to become more discreet, while the plums are coming to the front, together with a little Italian nocino (green walnuts) and hazelnut liqueur. With water: not many changes. A little leather, perhaps. Finish: rather long, on walnut wine and mirabelle jam. Not a very common combination, but it works. Quite some gewurztraminer in the aftertaste, bizarrely. Comments: it remains a finish, but it’s a very fine concoction.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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November 17, 2019 |
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Mad Armagnacs
and brandies from elsewhere |
Just another strange idea on a lazy Sunday afternoon (remember the Small Faces?)... |
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Clos Martin 15 yo ‘X.O. Folle Blanche’ (40%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2016)
This is pure folle blanche, which is Armagnac’s seminal grape. The problem is that at 40% vol., we are not expecting much here – but that may be a mistake. Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps a mistake, since we rather enjoy these whiffs of apricot and melon jam, these fresh sultanas, the lovely stewed rhubarb, and the touches of fudge and praline. Having said that there’s also a little vanilla, while in my book, vanilla should never feel in any aged spirit. Am I too harsh? Mouth: good, but a little sweetish, so a little too soft and even supple, with good jams and syrups before it would start to nosedive, because of the low strength. What’s more, reduction brings out the green tannins, but we’re below the limits here. Finish: a little short, with sultanas, caramel, and green tea. More caramel in the aftertaste. Comments: good soft Armagnac – despite the folle blanche – that would have needed a better backbone if you ask me. But it’s also true that the market for high-strength Cognac or Armagnac, in France and probably elsewhere, remains very small, so we couldn’t blame them.
SGP:640 - 80 points. |
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Bas Armagnac 1979/2019 (43.3%, Cadenhead, 492 bottles)
At Cadenhead they’re calling these ranges the ‘Alternative Spirits’. I would have added an M. They would not tell you about the domaine/estate, but they did not forget to mention that this is ‘Armagnac from France’. It’s true that Armagnac from Outer-Mongolia remains grossly overestimated. Colour: amber. Nose: this is ultra-classic Armagnac, both rich and refreshing, with some fudge and coffee and then a mentholy development that would lead to some pine-y notes. Otherwise, candied oranges and apricots are well there, whilst an awesome earthiness is emerging. Remains a little rustic, but that’s what you’re expecting from some proper French ;-) Armagnac. Mouth: indeed, classic Armagnac, a little vinous, dry, rustic, and with echoes of Calvados that are not unusual in artisan brandy. Finish: rather long, a little gritty, and pretty mentholy. More pine liqueur. Comments: rather old-school farm Armagnac. I find it good, but we’re not quite up there with the best if you ask this humble French taster. Same score.
SGP:361 - 80 points. |
Perhaps a fresher Ténarèze? |
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Armagnac Ténarèze 1990/2019 (47.8%, Cadenhead, 456 bottles)
This one came from France too ;-). Oh and pst, it cannot be both Bas-Armagnac and Ténarèze. Now, it’s said that Ténarèze are the Armagnacs for the true aficionados, who also love corrida, foie gras and rugby. Colour: amber. Nose: once again, this is rustic Armagnac, but it’s got strength and the assertiveness (what?) that the 1979 did not quite have. Stewed peaches, honey, raisins, prunes, and blond caramel. A touch of orange blossom water. Mouth: oranges, apples, raisins, maple syrup, demerara sugar, peaches, all that in a structure made out of some kind of mentholy oak – which is just perfect. No, not mizunara. Finish: long, earthy, with wonderful notes of lemongrass and, indeed, limoncello. Unusual and lovely. Comments: forgot to say, this is natural cask strength. A lovely bottling by the Scots, a smart move that any Gascon rugby player will just applaud. This Ténarèze is very good, if still rustic and ‘farmy’.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
Perhaps what’s supposed to be a benchmark Armagnac now? |
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Domaine de Baraillon 1976-1979/2019 (43%, OB, for Passion for Whisky)
A wee multi-vintage bottling by the Jimmy Pages of Armagnac. Colour: deep amber. Nose: the gap is pretty huge here, as this is simply stunning, complex, well-rounded, floral, fruity, slightly oriental, and certainly tropical. Mango jam, dandelions, heather honey… This is a nose to die for. Mouth: forgot to say, these 43% vol. do represent the natural cask strength here. The spirit is amazing, just a tad oaky at times (black cigars, black tea) but there’s also as much chocolate as in the most superb chocolate pie in Paris. Check Jacques Genin, he’s also a dedicated whisky lover. Melon jam, apricots, Smyrna currants, more chocolate, even more chocolate (all that from the oak)… And just a little rancio. Finish: long and very chocolaty. Black tea in the aftertaste – that’s the tannins. Comments: the oak shows a wee bit, but come on, Jimmy Page!
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
So, didn’t we say brandies from elsewhere? Why not Japan? Now, is Japanese brandy truly Japanese? Or is it like with Japanese whisky? Let’s see what we have… |
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Suntory Brandy ‘V.O.’ (37%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?)
This is extremely cheap (approx. 9€ a bottle) and probably sourced from a friendly ex-Soviet republic – or lovely India. Just a wild guess… Oh and VO means Very Old, so extremely young in booze business vocabulary. Colour: gold. Nose: not un-nice, on marzipan, roasted nuts, pine nuts, and toasted oak. No fruits to be seen here, but they might arrive in the aftertaste. Hope, always hope. Mouth: It’s pretty lol, akin to the cheapest brandies de Jerez. Cardboard, wood chips, molasses, burnt caramel, saccharose. This, is some impaired brandy. Finish: short, which is great news. Comments: some very lousy spirit, pretty bad, not poisonous though. Just very bad… For desperate Tokyo boozers only, I suppose. Suntory, come on! Looks like V.O. means Very Off-putting.
SGP:620 - 18 points (this is why we need a 100-scale, whatever some unexperienced chatterboxes may think of it). |
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Suntory Brandy ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?)
You’ll find this priced at 20€ at Rakuten, or 200€ at online retailers that specialise in trying to milk the naïve enthusiasts. Colour: full gold. Nose: oak and roasted chestnuts at first, then something bizarrely metallic, between some old military aluminium pans and copper coins, then really a lot of roasted raisins. Sure raisins belong here, but this many? It’s extremely curranty. Mouth: loads of raisins over an oaky and slightly structure. Really reminds me of some of the cheaper Armenian brandies. The better Armenian brandies are way better than this, in my book at least. Finish: medium, on the same notes. Cardboard and roasted raisins, some soap in the aftertaste. Comments: not quite there yet, but we’re making good progress. It’s much less sweetish than the V.O., which is a good thing.
SGP:451 - 40 points. |
Excuse me? Of course, the X.O…. |
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Suntory Brandy ‘X.O. Deluxe’ (40%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?) 
40€ at Rakuten, much more at the milkers’ ;-). This is the Deluxe version, there’s also a Super-Deluxe one, which we’ll also try in a few minutes if God lets me live. Colour: amber. Nose: we’re starting to talk, with not just raisins over oak chips and caramel, but also stewed peaches and apricots, some honey, touches of menthol and pine resin, as well as a little nougat. All is fine, this is akin to a pretty good entry-level Cognac by a large house, in my opinion. Mouth: pretty okay indeed, despite some burnt wood in the arrival. Some burnt caramel too, some toffee, then those stewed peaches again and a spoonful of pancake syrup. Sadly, the oak’s not extremely well integrated, as if some oak chips - or boisé - had been used. Indeed, entry-level Cognac. Finish: medium, a little bitter and too oaky. Or oakchippy, shall we say ;-). Once again, a wee soapiness in the aftertaste. Comments: not really to my liking, but it’s okay. Ish. The nose was pleasant.
SGP:541 - 65 points. |
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Suntory Brandy ‘X.O. Super Deluxe’ (40%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?)
45€ at Rakuten, 50€ at auctions, 150€ at ‘that’ lol-website that only sells Japanese spirits. No, that’s not PT-Barnum.com. Colour: deep amber. Nose: drier and more on chocolate, I would say. Toffee, black honey, perhaps a little South-American rum… Like… Mouth: undoubtedly better, but still a little drying and rather oak-forward. We’re talking boisé-like oak, oak essences and so on. A feeling of caramel, bitter chocolate, and very black tea. Let’s not forget to mention the obligatory raisins too. Finish: medium, with notes of figs, honey, pancake syrup indeed, and cocoa. Drying aftertaste. Comments: not something I would sip, but rather of sound and fair marketable quality.
SGP:451 - 72 points. |
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Nikka Brandy ‘X.O. Deluxe’ (40%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?)
37€ at Rakuten, 180€ ‘elsewhere’. Really, this is laughable. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very similar to the Suntories, with raisins and caramel in abundance, as well as peach and apricot jams. Having said that there are some additional floral notes, around gorse and dandelions, also blended honey, and perhaps even touches of ripe mangos.… It is a pleasant nose. Mouth: we’re undoubtedly closer to a proper good Cognac, with more depth, stewed fruits, jams, grapes, honeys, milk chocolate, raisins of course… The oak also feels more ‘natural’ and better integrated. Finish: medium, never bitter or cardboardy, rather on earl grey and perhaps a touch of cinnamon. Comments: this, I would certainly quaff. Well done/made/selected/sourced, Nikka.
SGP:551 - 78 points. |
A last Japanese please, and another X.O…. |
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Kirin Brandy ‘X.O.’ (40%, OB, Japanese brandy, +/-2019?)
This baby will ‘make any occasion a relaxing one’, you understand! I don’t think it’s to be seen outside Japan. Colour: full gold. Nose: same as the Nikka, word for word, so very ‘good Cognac V.S.’ indeed, although it would tend to become drier and less fruity after a good minute. Mouth: fair, a tad grassier than the others, sappier as well, with curious touches of aniseed and tangerine liqueur. As if some kind of creative blending had occurred, perhaps for the (slightly) better. Good notes of maple syrup and pineapple juice. Finish: medium, with a touch of pepper over liquorice, marmalade and raisins. Comments: I am not against this slightly unusual brandy, at all.
SGP:551 - 77 points. |
Yeah, what wouldn't we do for The Cause! |
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November 16, 2019 |
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Angus's Corner
From our casual Scottish correspondent
and guest taster Angus MacRaild |
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| A trio of Octomore |
| There’s three new(ish) Octomore upon my desk. Let’s do battle in ascending order of age. |
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Octomore 3 yo 2016/2019 'Edition 10.4' (63.5%, OB, virgin heavily toasted French oak, 12000 bottles) 
‘Virgin heavily toasted French oak’… Should I prepare a last will and testament…? Colour: coppery orange. Nose: toasty indeed. There is this anticipated pencil shaving aspect but it comes with lots of charcoal embers, warmth, ground green pepper, some kind of sweetened sawdust and herbal toothpaste. Also something like smoked orange peel. Hard to describe really. A rather simmering, peppery spiciness and over time it develops a sort of farmy, silage-tinged edge. What is undeniably impressive is that it isn’t at all aggressive or jarring, it’s very unusual but there is some kind of cohesion going on. With water: anthracite, dung, burnt toast, chip fat, mutton stock, putty and rather a lot of creosote. Some burning pine cones as well perhaps. Mouth: Ouch! You really feel the strength on arrival. Hot, sharp and hitting notes of raw medicines, paint thiner, antiseptic, carbolic acidity and chilli flakes. Pass the gimp mask please, not to mention a small Loch of water… with water: hard to fit enough water into a copita glass! This herbal toothpaste note is back, alongside peppered and smoked beef jerky, hot smoked paprika, bacon jam, camphor, burnt plasticine, scorching hot bovril, marmite, burnt twiglets. Totally mad whisky. A pleasing glimmer of root beer and caramelised brown sugar after a while. Finish: extremely long, very hot and prickling with red chilli, wood spices, aniseed, cough medicines, steel wool, very salty meat stocks, rather disjointed… have we fallen through a wormhole? Comments: I’m not sure what to say. Personally speaking this is just not my cup of whisky. Despite some initial promise on the nose I feel it really fell apart technically. And the neat palate was borderline painful. Now, having said all that, I suspect there are some extremist whisky pals out there who will want to marry this bottling. Not really sure what to do about a score, this kind of profile exists quite far outside normal whisky spectrums.
SGP: 477 - 69 (meaningless) points. |
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Some recovery time might be in order… |
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Octomore 5 yo 2013/2019 'Edition 10.1' (59.8%, OB , 1st fill barrels)
This one entirely from Scottish grown Concerto barley apparently. Colour: pale straw. Nose: After the terrifying phantasmagoria of the 3yo this feels almost merciful. Drying kelp, wet rocks, chalk, sandalwood, lime juice, mineral salts, brine cut with olive oil. Classical, modern, pure and rather elegant for an Octomore. Lemon peel in a rock pool almost. With water: bath bombs, citrus oils, more mineral salts, crushed sea shells, limestone, hessian cloth and gauze. Really lovely nose. Mouth: extremely salty. Pure brine, pink sea salt, green olives, capers, anchovy paste and fish sauce mixed with lime juice. Almost brutally coastal and there’s a tiny animalistic farmy note underneath as well. A very precise head-butt of coastal purity. With water: develops more towards medicine and pure antiseptic now. Lemon juice, fresh oyster, mercurochrome and olive pickling juice. Finish: long and pin-sharp. Some peat smoke, black pepper, seaweed broth and smoked mussels. Comments: When I think of Octomore, this is pretty much the flavour profile that comes to mind. It’s a style of almost militant purity, one that it has pretty much made its own and I think this bottling does it as well as any.
SGP: 367 - 88 points. |
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Octomore 8 yo 2010/2019 'Edition 10.2' (56.9%, OB for Travel Retail, 1st fill barrels and ex-Sauternes, 24,000 bottles)
This one was distilled from Optic and Oxbridge Scottish grown barley, then spent four years in ‘ex-American Whiskey casks’ and the subsequent four in Sauternes. So more of an even handed double maturation than a finish. Colour: gold. Nose: a far more bready profile compared to the others. Closer in fact to a ‘world’ whisky style in some ways with these autolytic notes of brown bread, toasted seeds and pastries. The smoke is in there but it’s a tad subdued. Some leathery and sooty qualities make themselves felt as well. Notes of caraway, rather a lot of green pepper and carbon paper. With water: much more sooty and with an earthy smokiness about it. Medical, grassy and more herbal. Mouth: a mix of salty, meaty and bready on arrival. Smoky bacon crisps, sourdough, ink, aniseed and hot paprika. Gets increasingly medical and there’s a definite syrupy sweetness to the palate which is quite a departure from the coastal purity of the 5yo. There’s still a rather ‘Octomorian’ directness about it but it sits in a sort of triangulated position between farmyard, sweetness and medicine. With water: more towards plain peat smoke now with camphor, creosote, limoncello and sweetened cough syrups. Finish: long and more elegant and herbal than the previous two. Some bonfire smoke and tarry notes. Comments: I think the maturation worked pretty well here. I find this sweeter side feels quite natural and attractive. The peat feels unusually subdued.
SGP: 566 - 86 points. |
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