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July 26, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Six Dornoch single casks
There’s more and more of these Dornoch single casks out there these days, which is great as many are very good and it’s very satisfying to see independent, quality-focused businesses like this succeed. Especially as they add much needed colour (and character) to Scotch Whisky’s all too often monochrome marketplace. Let’s catch up and try six of them from last year. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (50.2%, OB, cask #67, 1st fill bourbon octave, 77 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: syrupy green and exotic fruits with a nibble of wood spice behind. Green pepper, sandalwood, pulped pineapple and mango juice. This one feels like a very careful balance between the fruitiness of the distillate and the obvious power of that tiny cask. With water: a pina colada, really dominated by coconut water, fruit pulp and hints of hot climate rums. Mouth: a nicely concentrated feel upon arrival, with tropical fruit juices and teas leading the charge. Although, you do get a bit more assertion from the wood here, with more green pepper, wood spice, cedar and sandalwood notes. More impressions of pineapple juice and some greener hints of crushed nettle. Makes me think a little of some very good Inchmurrin. With water: more peppery heat and power from the wood, but the general fruity structure still holds true. Finish: medium, on white pepper, fruit salad chewy sweets and sunflower oil. Comments: I would say balance has just about been struck. On one had it shows the superbly concentrative power of these wee bourbon casks, but on the other, they have a short lifespan.
SGP: 651 – 86 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2017/2024 (55.2%, OB, cask #22, 1st fill bourbon octave, 69 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: leaner, greener and grassier. More on cooking oils, crushed green herbs, grasses, nettles, lime leaf, lemongrass and hints of ginger – would make a good Dark N Stormy cocktail! With water: peaches and cream with some pink marshmallow, gorse flower, sandalwood and rapeseed oil. Mouth: this one also has quite a bit of American oak coconutty vibes up front, also some hints of new leather shoes, condensed milk, mineral oils, tinned peaches and fruit salad juices. Again, pretty spicy and peppery. With water: some sort of spiced limoncello, with tiny hints of fruity red chili, more cedar wood notes, lanolin, cooking oils and lemon oil. Finish: rather long, with some more exotic notes coming through, along with cannabis resin and pineapple jellybeans. Comments: they are a lot of fun these young Dornoch single casks, you just have to be in the mood to get your chops around a bit of wood spice.
SGP: 651 – 87 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (55.8%, OB, cask #82, bourbon octave, 80 bottles) 
Colour: deep gold. Nose: banana chips, herbal teas with honey, fruity muesli, crushed nettles, mango chunks, more cannabis resin and a nicely aromatic waxiness emerging. With water: lemon verbena, hot house flowers, vapour rub and tea tree oil. Mouth: another very syrupy and spicy one, but I find here that the fruitiness keeps pace a bit more, it’s also got an even more pronounced grassy and olive oil vibe. Crushed nettles, cider apple, mint, jasmine flower and spicy, exotic fruit teas. With water: juicy fruit chewing gum, lemon curd, fruit salad juices and cooking oils. Finish: long, quite fruity, even a bit estery with some green banana in the aftertaste. Comments: I enjoy the distillate character that seems to dominate a little more assertively here. Was it a refill octave?
SGP: 641 – 88 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (56.3%, OB, cask #94, 1st fill bourbon octave, 93 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: resinous fir woods, menthol characteristics, rolling tobacco, even toothpaste. This one is off to a slightly more unlikely start. There’s also some foam banana sweets and even a bit of banoffee pie. With water: caraway, coconut shavings, ground ginger, nutmeg and baked plantain. Mouth: coconut cream, retsina, green peppercorns, banana liqueur, some rather strong mead and sweet cider. It’s a bit dominated by the wood for me, I’m afraid. With water: café latte, stout ale, pumpernickel bread and flambeed banana. Finish: quite long and very spicy. You definitely feel the wood closing in. Comments: a good example of what happens when these wee casks cook the whisky a tad too intensely.
SGP: 561 – 84 points. |
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Dornoch 7 yo 2017/2024 (56%, OB, cask #38, 1st fill bourbon octave, 74 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: another tenser and sharper one, immediately quite refreshing after the previous one in that it’s much more about cut grass, olive oil, lemon rind, bay leaf, crushed nettles, gooseberry and lime. Also an elegant and fresh herbaceous quality emerges with a little time. With water: lemongrass, wool, peppery watercress, juniper and hint of pineapple. A much more unusual profile than the others, but I like this more distillate-driven and sharp profile. Mouth: rather citric, sharp and even with quite a bit of acidity. Again, very tense and precise in profile, perhaps even slightly austere. A little chalky, some lemon juice, wool, dry waxy notes, mineral oils and, with time, some underlying green and yellow fruits emerge. With water: grassy, oily, drying, waxy and mineral. A more classical old school profile finally emerges and brings a greater sense of coherence. Finish: long, mineral, even slightly salty, with olive oil, grass, petrol and wax. Comments: complex, grown-up whisky for distillate geeks! Obviously, that includes me.
SGP: 461 – 88 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2019/2024 (60.7%, OB for The WhiskyFind 10th Anniversary, cask #160, ex-Islay quarter cask, 164 bottles)
Presumably an ex-Laphroaig quarter. Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: It’s a good job we saved this one till last, the peat comes through loud and clear, but with some Dornoch fruit character at play as well. Sandalwood shaving foam, tangerines, charred pineapple rings, slightly sooty and waxy notes, bonfire embers and unlit cigars. With water: aromatic wood smoke, anchovies in brine, miso paste, smoked olive oil, a bit more complex and settled now I would say. Mouth: really quite peaty, big wood spice notes, hot BBQ sauce, TCP and black olive tapenade. Also, a lot of tar, old rope, hessian and malt vinegar. With water: still a massive dram, very salty, umami and with a dense, thick, slightly ashy smokiness. Finish: long, tarry, dry and full of raw peat and bonfire smoke. Comments: Dorphroaig? The peat has really dominated here and produced an immensely potent, slightly monolithic wee dram. One of those clever and very fun whiskies that would lead you endlessly in circles if tasted blind.
SGP: 466 – 86 points. |
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July 25, 2025 |
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Indie Allt-A-Bhainne in a duo |
We really enjoy these little low-key sessions, and this time we'll steer well clear of any debates or controversies about the various spellings of this very modern distillery's name. Well, it was modern when it was built by Seagram back in the 1970s. |
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Allt-A-Bhainne 7 yo 2016/2024 (61.7%, DH Global Spirits, 1st fill oloroso octave, cask #1031738C, 57 bottles) 
A small outturn, very young, but that means nothing. I mean it could be very good… Colour: red macassar (if such a hue truly exists). Nose: straight onto prunes in Armagnac and orange liqueur, then chocolate leaning towards artisanal Nutella (if such a thing exists). We’re then onto millionaire’s shortbread and a cashew tart doused in maple syrup. You see where this is going. With water: pecans and roasted peanuts, slathered in chestnut honey. Mouth (neat): red fruits cooked in honey and Spanish mandarin liqueur, all on a bed of chocolate sauce. With water: we’re back with all manner of roasted oily nuts glazed in honey and caramel, the whole lot splashed with triple sec. Finish: long, more chocolatey. Comments: you could say this little Allt-A-Bhainne is doggedly ploughing its own furrow! We do enjoy this style of young little beast, very well put together…
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
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Allt-A-Bhainne 27 yo 1995/2024 (52.6%, Milroy’s, Vintage Reserve, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel) 
It’s not every day one gets to taste a fairly old Allt-A-Bhainne, and let us hope, at least, that it’s close to the distillate. Colour: gold. Nose: this is very much ‘natural Speyside’, imagine baked apples and pears gently placed atop a bed of custard. Fair enough, you may add a bit of meringue if you like. With water: banana foam of the highest pedigree and marshmallow, with even a faint whiff of 1970s Jell-O – I swear I’m not making this up. Mouth (neat): this is lovely, quite ‘high definition’, curiously but charmingly mentholated, then we’re off with lemon balm and a whole medley of wee citrus fruits, starting with bergamot. We a.d.o.r.e. bergamot at WF. With water: more fresh malt now and a very citrus-forward hop character. In short, it’s like a top-notch, high-ABV IPA. Has someone distilled and aged an IPA already, or am I dreaming? Perhaps our Californian friends? Finish: long and brimming with freshness, which might be slightly dangerous, all things considered. Comments: these two Allt-A-Bhainnes were quite different, yet they both had this shared fruity vibrancy. Honestly, I swear, we really must go and have a word about A-A-B’s house style with the blenders at Pernod Ricard.
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
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July 24, 2025 |
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A variety of very different Bowmores on the table, till '69
Bowmore firmly holds a spot in our top five in terms of the number of different expressions we've tasted, and today we're going to mix things up a bit. For instance, we mentioned the partnership between Aston Martin and Glenfiddich the other day, so it’s now time to sample a Bowmore that also happens to be the result of a collaboration with this iconic car brand. We'll just avoid bringing up any issues with electronics, clutches, overheating, or sluggish gearboxes. Right... |
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Bowmore 21 yo ‘Aston Martin’ (51.4%, OB, Master’s Selection Edition 4, 2024) 
The 22-year-old from 2022 had been decent (WF 83). The trouble with this recent 21 is that it was hurled into some Tawny Port, which doesn’t exactly scream ‘Aston Martin’ if you ask me. But let’s set aside all prejudice and press on… Colour: bronze gold. Nose: hmm, stock cube, mead, spent fireworks, boot polish, leather, stewed red fruit, buds, and dried raisins… With water: the more ‘Bowmorian’ traits emerge—sea water, peat, oysters, liquorice… In short, it’s better with water. Mouth (neat): in the vein of those early wine-finished Bowmores, starting with the inexpressible ‘Claret’. It clashes in a Miles Davis circa 1970 kind of way—the resemblance ends there, alas for this Bowmore. Smoked prunes, scorched orchard leaves, and lashings of umeshu as served in a sushi joint. With water: again, slightly improved, though there’s lavender and violet poking through. Oops, just like the old days. Finish: medium in length, on smoked red fruit jam with a slightly soapy edge. Comments: one really wonders whether it wasn’t the Aston Martin mechanics who cobbled this together, a serviceable dram, but entirely far-fetched. Not for us, really, they ought to try Toyota next time…
SGP:664 - 78 points. |
Quick, let’s try to pull ourselves together—with a barrel… After all, when it comes to casks, according to our theory, less is more, isn’t it? |
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Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2023 (51.1%, The Whisky Agency, 15th anniversary, The Perfect Dram, barrel, 124 bottles) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: lovely age, splendid vintage, pristine purity, gorgeous exotic fruits, and a magnificent coastal profile—it couldn’t have turned out any better, especially after the 21 AM. With water: about three litres of Loch Indaal water, lemons, clams, pinewood smoke, and a splash of Sauvignon Blanc… Mouth (neat): on those creamy citrus notes Bowmore does so well, both fresh and oily, with a lemony, salty peat of the highest order. And let us not forget the oysters. With water: same again, it’s utterly delightful. Finish: likewise, only even saltier, as is often the case towards the end. Comments: even before our nose hovered over the tulip glass, we knew this was going to be a 90. There must be some kind of energy at play…
SGP:565 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 2002/2025 (58.2%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, for The Whisky Dreamers, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS25014, 146 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re back in the more tropical, fruitier, and downright seductive vintages, yet the whole remains very pure and taut—in short, it’s lovely, almost effortlessly so, and in the best possible sense. But do watch those watts (ha, up to 59.9% we tell ourselves it’s manageable, past 60.0% and it’s playing with fire). With water: the mango bursts wide open. Mouth (neat): this one meets the 1997s in sheer clarity and precision, very ‘clear line’ style, though with added iodine and a feeling of petrichor. With water: Bowmore in high definition—mango, lemon, sea water, beechwood-smoked salmon, and do pass the Riesling, please. Finish: no real shift, which is a good thing, though once again, it gets a tad saltier. Comments: we went in hunting for flaws and came back empty-handed. So, according to our patented system stretching as far as Kamchatka and beyond, this will be, once more…
SGP:655 - 90 points. |
How about revisiting some past glories? No heatwave in Alsace these days, so let’s make the most of it, we’ve got a clear run ahead… |
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Bowmore 30 yo 1990/2020 (53.7%, Kingsbury for Club Qing, hogshead, cask #3971)
Angus has already tasted it. And of course, he liked it a lot, but let’s not allow ourselves to be swayed, eh… Colour: pale gold. Nose: there’s a whiff of paraffin oil, or a parcel from Temu to start with, though in this context, that’s not necessarily a bad omen, as gradually fresh fruits begin to sneak in, especially wee citrus ones, then metal polish, varnish, glues, and more and more oyster juice, petrol, rhubarb, green tomatoes… In fact, the complexity only grows from there. With water: still a little chaotic, as if the cask had sprung a leak or been on a few escapades. Wool, chalk, sourdough, and the like. Mouth (neat): salty pear eau-de-vie, in an old Bowmore? Water ought to straighten out all those molecules… With water: ah yes, there we are, it all falls into place, a 90% manzanilla blend with 5% seawater, 5% lemon juice, and 5% pear juice. I do hope those figures add up… perhaps not. Finish: long, very slightly acetic, always very salty, maritime, and still a tad unruly. Comments: quite a different old Bowmore, perhaps with some discreet remnants of the 1980s, and something of a fascinating puzzle piece. But do set aside some time if you're going to tackle it…
SGP:565 - 89 points. |
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Largiemeanoch 20 yo 1974 (50.6%, The Whisky Connoisseur, Arthur J.A. Bell, cask #2087, +/-1995)
No need, surely, to remind anyone that these Bowmore/Largiemeanoch bottlings belong in the pantheon of malt whisky, ever since that head-turning 12-year-old 1967. So, let’s remain humble… Colour: white wine. Nose: the early Largiemeanoch were loaded with intergalactic sherry, but here we’re faced with something of unfathomable purity—passion fruit, peanut butter (pure, naturally), and gently salted pink grapefruit. Dazzling. With water: that old tweed jacket, the one that’s seen countless downpours and tempests, and yes, even a wet dog. A very small dog, a Yorkshire. Mouth (neat): please summon the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade sofort! Never before had we imagined smoked and salted bergamot jelly. With water: the austerity returns, citrus peels and high-grade Italian bitters. Forget anything too crimson in colour… Finish: long, with the emergence of meaty and fishy notes that only serve to amplify the overall complexity. There's even a drop of nuoc-mam and a hint of bitter almond right at the death. Comments: none, except that we no longer recall what became of The Whisky Connoisseur. Must dig into that one day. Reminder, the Largiemeanoch 1967/1979, credited to Howgate Wine Co., was WF 97. Not that it matters in the slightest, of course.
SGP:666 - 93 points. |
We continue, going back through the years, with one final dram… |
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Bowmore 36 yo 1969/2006 (44.0%, Duncan Taylor, Peerless, cask #6090, 233 bottles)
There were many sublime Bowmores from the 1960s in the stocks of Abe Rosenberg/Duncan Taylor, and here’s an example, likely a proper fruit bomb. Colour: white wine. Nose: a genuine fruit bomb. One still wonders why Bowmore (and Laphroaig too) threw away the recipe! It’s really just an astonishing fruit salad from every continent, with mango, passion fruit and those dainty pink bananas taking the lead, before—slightly fashionably late, we must say—mineral and ashy touches stroll in ‘for the glory’, as it were. There’s also fresh mint, lavender honey, a touch of candle wax, and a whisper of new fabric. That’ll do, we’ve not got all day, but just to note, the minerality builds in stature, though it never dares unseat the fruit salad, which sits proudly on the throne… Mouth: this is getting embarrassing. We’re moving into citrus overload territory, layered with all sorts of ashes and those wonderfully salty Bowmore notes said—after a few drams—to come from the barrels having been rolled through Loch Indaal to reach the puffers when they couldn’t dock at the pier. Aye well, take that as you will. Finish: long, even saltier, with a touch of ultra-premium margarita, grapefruit and salt in the dying embers. Comments: must dig out those old Malt Maniacs articles that, if memory serves, spoke of peat ‘transmuting’ into tropical fruit with age. This is right up there with the stellar Largiemeanoch. Worth mentioning though, some of the sister casks were less robust, less spectacular, possibly down to natural ABVs nudging closer to 40%.
SGP:754 - 93 points. |
Now that was what you’d call a proper tasting session at WF. |
(Thank you, KC and Steffen) |
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July 23, 2025 |
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It had been a while since we last tasted Glenfiddich! Hard to believe that when I first sampled single malts – in an “American-style” bar in Burgundy – the only ones available were Cardhu (with the white label) and Glenfiddich; the rest were still virtually unknown! But I know, that was ages ago... Anyway, today we’re going to taste a recent version of the famous 12-year-old, followed by a more prestigious release that did come out last year. Sound good? By the way, no Wardhead (teaspooned Glenfiddich) in the stash at the moment, are they still circulating? Oh and Glenfiddich are apparently sponsoring Aston Martin in F1 these days, they have even just launched a celebratory co-branded 65 yo 1959 into Harrods, 79,000.00 £GB (I mean a bottle of whisky, not a car). After Bowmore, it would seem Aston Martin have taken quite a liking to a broad selection of whisky brands lately… |
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Glenfiddich 12 yo ‘Our Original Twelve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025) 
We last sampled this humble 12 back in 2018, and it wasn’t bad at all (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: maltier and greener than expected, with sharp wee green apples all over the place—utterly unmistakable. Then come the expected pears, melon rind, buttery croissants (mais bien sûr), and a touch of freshly cut grass. Hints of young oak and a whisper of liquorice wood flicker in the background. All very pleasant, really, with a rather charming Proustian quality about it. Mouth: yes, fresh again, with a delightful wee acidity, rather fine light oak, and once more those just-under-ripe apples and pears. These add a welcome brightness, lifting the whole and keeping any sluggishness well at bay. A dainty shard of shortbread too. Finish: not exactly the longest of finishes, but in this case the modest 40% vol. isn’t too much of a handicap. A few zesty notes help bridge the gap left by the missing watts. Some clean peppermint in the aftertaste. Comments: I see no reason to downgrade this fresh and chirpy little malt—utterly easy-going and faultless in its own right. Still very pleased with it, even… decades on from my first ‘fiddich!
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
Just as an anecdote, on my first trip to Scotland, I was also served Glenfiddich, but at the time it was almost mandatory to drown it in ginger tonic or other questionable fizzy drinks. Anyway... |
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Glenfiddich 31 yo ‘Grand Château’ (47.6, OB, 2024)
Roughly 2,000 bottles, according to an AI—I know, I know. Oddly enough, this elderly wee creature was finished in Bordeaux rouge casks for no fewer than 9 years, so technically we’re looking at proper double-maturation. At nearly 2,000 Euros a bo', one sincerely hopes said Bordeaux—labelled ‘rare’ by the brand—was from a 1st Grand Cru Classé. Colour: somewhere between salmon and apricot. Nose: the wine’s influence makes itself known straight away, with vineyard peaches, upmarket sangria (but of course), blackcurrant jelly and blackberry jam, all neatly draped over a tray of pastries, scones, blueberry muffins and the like. Gentle touches of liquorice and mint lend a civilised air to the whole. It’s very much a winesky, but one of the haute-couture kind on the nose, no doubt. But when, oh when, will the invasion of red fruits in malt whisky finally come to an end? Mouth: here we drift a little closer to the malt again, with blood oranges, a touch of gunpowder (presumably from a bit of S******, quite unobtrusive), reminiscent of many an ex-sherry. Then come cherry pie with honey, pepper, cinnamon, and something frankly akin to mulled wine, with brown sugar, star anise, cloves, and more cinnamon. Finish: rounded and pâtissier, with a surprising rum-raisin and old ratafia character in the afterglow. Comments: there’s clearly a broad blended aspect here, or even something mildly trans in character, but one cannot deny it’s very well put together, and of course a bit of open-mindedness goes a long way. Now then, which Grand Château was it really?
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
The question, naturally, remains: is a bottle of Grand Château really worth forty-five bottles of the 12-year-old? I’ll let you decide... Oh and after thorough research, it turns out that the name of the Bordeaux château used to finish the Glenfiddich 31-year-old "Grand Château" has not been publicly disclosed, neither by the brand, nor by the château. |
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July 22, 2025 |
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Deanston, we have a problem…
Indeed, yet another serious contender for the SHOTY Award in San Francisco (Stupidest Headline Of The Year). In any case, the issue is that we don’t have enough Deanston, even though improbable versions have been multiplying over the past few years, but still, it’s a name that’s practically come back from the dead within those years. We like Deanston, let’s see what we’ve got…
(AI slop) |
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Deanston 17 yo 2002/2020 ‘Organic PX Finish’ (49.3%, OB, 3,102 bottles) 
A finishing in organic PX, do admit that’s rather amusing. You might say we’ve taken five years to finally crack open this baby. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s not earth-shattering, but it’s well-balanced, on cake, walnuts, sultanas and amber ale. Some toasted hazelnuts and dried goji berries. Nothing further to declare. Mouth: a notch greener, a little wobblier, with a bitterness one wouldn’t quite expect from an ex-PX—perhaps that’s the organic angle at work (only teasing, mind). A faint note of bell pepper and green walnut sneaks in unannounced. Finish: long, leaning towards a dry bitterness, Noilly Prat, Fernet Branca, bitter chocolate, and a touch of rubber… The aftertaste is slightly astringent. Comments: we didn’t start with the easiest dram, that much is clear, but it does have its merits. For instance, the organic character of the wine, though aren’t all the great wines organic nowadays?
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
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Deanston 15 yo ‘Tequila Cask Finish’ (52.5%, OB, 2023)
I know, yet another tequila finish, but I implore you, let us not be afraid! Mind you, the finishing did indeed take place in casks sourced from the highlands of Jalisco, which had previously held 100% blue agave tequila made from plants aged 7 to 8 years. Said casks had already been used four to five times prior. Right, we know the lot now, don’t we? Colour: white wine. Nose: not much in the way of tequilaness or agaveness at this point, rather a malty malt, leaning towards bruised apples and candlewax. With water: hints of paraffin and a subtle note of olive oil. We rather like that. Mouth (neat): odder, fairly rubbery, with lime peel and a distinctly offbeat edge. The addition of water should do it a world of good. With water: indeed, much improved, becoming saltier, the olive oil makes a comeback, a faint smokiness emerges (think pine wood smoke), and the tequila finally begins to show itself. Finish: medium in length and a tad more earthy. Green walnuts. Comments: we’re not exactly doing cartwheels, but it’s not bad at all. I nearly added a ‘caramba!’ (it’s getting worse, S.)
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
Let’s move on to the indies, if you don’t mind… |
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Deanston 17 yo 2008/2025 (50.3%, The Whisky Agency, ruby Port barrel, 164 bottles)
Hurrah, The Whisky Agency! But oops, ruby Port? What happened there? Let's have a look… Colour: reddish amber. Nose: frankly, I’ve no idea where this is coming from, but there’s a tomato sauce aspect (a serious case of synaesthesia?) mixed with shoe polish and a hint of peat that… well, actually works. Do you believe in miracles? These little blackberries and that salted butter caramel go together rather splendidly, it reminds me of one of the finest puddings ever served by the late André Parra at the Ermitage de Corton in Chorey-les-Beaune, though I really don’t know why I’m telling you that. With water: more polish and cherry eau-de-vie. Mouth (neat): this is proper supercharged Port, seriously. Blackberries and candied cherries, both preserved and jammy, along with stewed bell pepper and a fair amount of blackcurrant bud. With water: the blackcurrant bud takes centre stage. Finish: similar story. Bitter oranges and blood oranges in the aftertaste. Cherry clafoutis right at the very end. Comments: utterly improbable, yet it works. I was bracing for disaster, but it is The Whisky Agency after all!
SGP:561 - 83 points. |
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Deanston 2008/2023 (60.2%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, the Midnight Series, refill butt, cask #DL1854, 662 bottles)
Why Midnight Series, I’m not entirely sure. Perhaps slightly darker casks than usual? Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a little rubber here, possibly from the sherry cask, but mostly it’s all about chocolate and Ethiopian mocha. That said, at this strength one had better add water without delay. With water: this leans a bit towards old plum brandy, even a touch of rustic Armagnac. Mouth (neat): very much young eau-de-vie, tutti-frutti straight from the still, or indeed plums, especially after a second run through. In short, it’s a tad ‘hot’… With water: not much development, really, we remain in plum and cherry jam territory. May I recommend the one from Itxassou in the Basque Country? Finish: good length, still plummy and, above all, that rubbery note we already encountered earlier in this session. Comments: in short, I think this is pretty good, but perhaps not quite essential.
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
Promise, next time we’ll have some ex-bourbon or ex-refill hoggie Deanston. In the meantime, see you soon, stay tuned. |
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July 21, 2025 |
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A little trio from Dufftown |
We’re talking about the Dufftown distillery here, not the small town of Dufftown itself, which, as you know and as far as I’m aware, is home to Glenfiddich (William Grant & Sons), Balvenie (William Grant & Sons), Mortlach (Diageo), Dufftown (Diageo), Glendullan (Diageo), and Kininvie (William Grant & Sons). Convalmore and Pittyvaich are no longer operational, as you’ll also be aware. |
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Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo ‘Luscious Nectar’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
It’s curious, this recent need among distillers to tack names onto age statements, as they’ve done here with ‘Luscious Nectar’, which does sound a little like ‘slop’, doesn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: light and pleasant, in the style of its same-aged neighbour whose name ends in ‘fiddich’. Malt, bruised apples, multifloral honey, a touch of custard. A slight sense of überblend, if you see what I mean. Mouth: fully consistent, light, malty, faintly herbal, otherwise on nicely ripe apples and a hint of Earl Grey tea. Finish: fairly short, on fruity beer. Comments: woosh, it almost slipped by without notice. Nectar, I’m not so sure. Luscious, certainly not.
SGP:441 - 76 points. |
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Singleton of Dufftown 18 yo ‘Sublimely Smooth’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
The last time we tasted the 18 was back in 2013, and it hadn’t exactly blown us away (WF 79). Let’s see if there’s been any progress, even though the word ‘smooth’ tends to send half the malt aficionados running for the hills. But not ‘the neighbours’... Colour: gold. Nose: still rather gentle, though seemingly a notch fuller than the 12, with discreet touches of beeswax, candied orange peel, and the subtlest suggestions of coriander seed and garden-fresh mint leaves. It’s an attractive nose, not exactly a bomb, but undeniably charming in its soft-spoken way. Mouth: alas, the 40% strength no longer quite does the trick, even if the profile holds together with notes of orchard apples and Valencia oranges lightly steeped in honey, along with a barely-there hint of mild Espelette pepper. One might dream of this elegant arrangement being issued at a more conversational 45% vol. Finish: shortish but by no means hollow, with lovely, warming spices and a rather endearing finale on lemon and orange marmalade toast. Comments: appears to have fared better than last time, though after twelve years, such judgments inevitably carry a dash of speculative romance.
SGP:451 - 80 points. |
Come on, let’s call on the good old days… |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet ‘Over 8 Years Old’ (80° proof, OB, Arthur Bell for Sposetti Genoa, cork stopper, 1960s)
Attention, there have been sublimely stellar versions of this 8-year-old, such as the one for Ghirlanda in Italy around 1968 (WF 92). 80° UK proof equates roughly to 46% vol., as you know. Colour: gold, very slightly bronzed. Nose: and here we are, metal polish, bone marrow quenelle soup, braised chicory, top-flight mead, antique orange liqueur and the faintest, most discreet trace of cork, almost imaginary. Mouth: a hint of peat smoke, old raisins in a tin box that clearly predate the moon landing (they do last forever), ancient herbal liqueurs, and without doubt a touch of tiredness that veers into pine resin territory more than it ought to. Finish: long, though slightly bitter, remaining on fir bud liqueur and resinous notes throughout. The aftertaste leans towards salted honey. Comments: it’s always a bit of Russian roulette with these old bottles, and timeworn corks rarely do favours, but there’s still a clear glimmer here, after sixty years or more, of the intergalactic calibre this juice once possessed, even if it’s now re-entered Earth’s atmosphere. Right.
SGP:571 - 85 points. |
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July 20, 2025 |
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A few more rums, some extreme
First, the usual apéritif, and probably quite a bit of sugar...
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Dictador 16 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2024) 
Fruit of the inexpressible ‘solera system’. They told me this 16 wasn’t too bad, but let’s remain cautious… Colour: deep gold. Nose: well, this isn’t dreadful, it’s got a developed edge yet remains rather fresh, on dead leaves and bay, nori, then praline and ginger liqueur. It’s that latter element that’s a bit troubling, truth be told. Mouth: oops, this is still terribly sweet, even if it doesn’t immediately trigger rejection, even at room temperature. Still, it’s not good, the flavours are unpleasant, with burnt sugar and rubber. Finish: fairly long, and that’s precisely the issue. Very ‘burnt sugar’. Comments: unpleasant at 20°C, though I imagine it might go down more acceptably at 5°C. A rather poor wee thing, really; the ‘Capítulo I’ we tasted last time was far better, in our opinion.
SGP:720 - 39 points. |
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TDL 2006-2008/2024 ‘Harmony’ (57%, Vagabond Spirits for Takumi Spirit, ex-bourbon, Trinidad)
TDL, essentially, is the new Caroni, isn’t it? Colour: amber. Nose: it’s fruity, the texture feels of the ‘light’ kind, with orange liqueur, acacia honey, candyfloss, and a whole bag of sugary Easter eggs. With water: tar and shoe polish come out first, then wafts of fresh plywood and a decidedly Ikea-like character. Mouth (neat): there’s a rough, bagasse-like edge to it, gritty yet sweet at the same time, with rather striking acidity. Belize does spring to mind… With water: everything seems to gather around preserved lemons, olives, and honey. It’s very sweet-salty and gently bitter-sweet at once. Finish: same. Comments: not easy to pigeonhole, but I rather enjoy this gently improbable ‘self-blend’.
SGP:552 - 85 points. |
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Saint James 12 yo 2010/2023 (45%, La Maison & Velier, Magnum Series #2, Alex Webb Edition, Martinique, agricole)
This is the Magnum Series linked to the famous photo agency, though these aren’t magnums. I think this is going to be good. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh yes, cassata, strawberry muesli, white clover honey, fresh turmeric, fennel and star anise. Bright as the lens on an old Leica (eh?). Mouth: terrifyingly beautiful and distinguished, it truly resembles nothing else. Delicate hints of coconut cream, then all those spices we just mentioned, especially the aniseed. It’s rare to find this much anise, even chez Pernod Ricard (ahem), but as it happens we adore anise. In short, this is a true Martiniquan pastis. Finish: very long and now very bitter. Extreme liquorice and extreme anise. Comments: love it or loathe it – your call. There’s something properly bonkers about it.
SGP:471 - 89 points. |
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T.D.L. 8 yo 2016/2025 (67.5%, The Colours of Rum, ex-bourbon, Trinidad, cask #4, 314 bottles)
Yet another blatant assassination attempt at 67.5% – where are the authorities when you need them? Colour: gold. Nose: at this stage, we’re not far from the Vagabond, both estery (glues) and fresh and fruity (pineapple, pear, amyl diacetate and so on). With water: quite remarkable how it falls into line, becoming soft and fruity (pear liqueur), but also showing lovely and elegant touches of fresh tyres, engine oil, plus honeysuckle, iris, jasmine… All of this is rather fascinating to follow. Mouth (neat): it hits hard, all glue and pear indeed, so let’s not linger – water, quickly… With water: bang on, quite amazing how water smooths everything out, even if some notes of sticking plaster start to emerge, alongside lemons and lemon balm. Finish: long and surprisingly salty. Comments: a real treasure hunt, as one gradually tames it down from 67.5% to around 45%.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
We're heading straight to Jamaica... |
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HD 9 yo 2015/2025 ‘DOK’ (68.9%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, Edition #17, cask #2, 297 bottles)
I trust you know that in rum, ‘HD’ doesn’t stand for Harley-Davidson, right? But ‘DOK’ means 1,500 to 1,700 gr esters/hlpa, which is roughly the ‘eleven’ on Nigel Tufnel’s Spinal Tap scale. Colour: deep gold. Nose: at such strength, there’s barely anything perceptible, one simply wants to save her/his nose and olfactory bulb. Let’s say there’s a bit of acetone, Formica, and balsa. With water: dried pears, jujubes, bicycle patches, an old moped, worn tyres, and a genuine heap of dried flowers, which is rather unusual. Mouth (neat): well, this isn’t really ‘enjoyable’ at this strength, it’s almost, say kind of vulgar (Everclear is near) and ‘industrial’. Let’s move on… With water: much better, though it remains a touch odd, jumbled, rounded, curious, and not all that ‘DOK’ in the end. These beasts are truly difficult to bring down to an ideal drinking strength, it seems we rather failed here, to be perfectly honest. Finish: same. Comments: I think we somewhat botched this one, frankly. Mea Culpa.
SGP:552 - 82 points. |
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Hampden 1 yo 2023/2025 ‘Oloroso’ (62.3%, The Colours of Rum for Catawiki, Jamaica, cask #135, 75 bottles)
1,300–1,400 gr esters/hlpa here, so a proper C<>H. One must say, the ultra-young HDs from this series we’ve tasted so far have been nothing short of interstellar. Colour: full gold. Nose: UHU glue, formic acid, gherkin brine, and garlicky mussels in white wine. With water: more petrichor, fresh tar and black garlic. I find it utterly brilliant, I fear. Mouth (neat): as for the oloroso, who knows, but the rest – glue and salted liquorice galore – is utterly gorgeous. One just needs to enjoy this rather, let’s say, excessive style. With water: superb saline tension, marked by whiffs of acetone and ammonia. It’s absolutely mad, really. Finish: massive salty and ‘chemical’ bitterness, which inevitably pushes the drinker into a bout of introspection, something along the lines of, do I really like this, and if so, why do I like it, am I normal, will society judge me, etc, etc, etc. Comments: pure madness, the kind you simply won’t find in malt whisky; bacterial fermentation has clearly become the flavour of the day. Just saying…
SGP:374 - 90 points. |
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HD 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘DOK’ (55.9%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter, Jamaica, refill cask, cask #3, 173 bottles)
Just to remind you, that’s 1,500 to 1,700 gr esters/hlpa. Octomore looks like a lemonade in comparison. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s rather immaculate yet far from simple, on seawater, citrus, oysters, tyres, clams, cigarette ash, seaweed, and peat smoke… Peat smoke? With water: you've just opened a massive jar of pickled gherkins – congratulations! Mouth (neat): massive indeed, mezcal and burnt tyres, cocoa, ashes, hyper-intense coffee… With water: a great deal of salinity, which slightly upsets the rest, though we happen to adore saline (formerly ‘mineral’, formerly ‘salty’, occasionally ‘vertical’) wines and spirits. Finish: very long but a little mad, let’s be honest. It feels a bit like you’ve just drunk the entire Mediterranean Sea, from Gibraltar to the Gulf of Iskenderun. Comments: what a beauty, this is the manzanilla of rum! But beware, if ultra-salty spirits aren’t your thing, step aside and leave the bottles for those of us who are into it. Us, for instance.
SGP:364 - 91 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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July 19, 2025 |
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Happy Birthday to Angus!
We've got two or three things to celebrate this month on WF, for instance, our 23rd anniversary on 27th July, and I believe we'll be tasting a few Broras we've never tried before. We're also celebrating Angus's birthday – today he's joining us a day early to mark his fortieth with some of his favourite distilleries, all in legendary bottlings. - S. |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent andskilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Old Laphroaig for my 40th plus suitable aperitifs
It's my 40th birthday this weekend. As such, I thought it would be as good an occasion as any to write notes for all these rather tasty old Laphroaig 10s that have accumulated here at Whiskyfun's Scotland office. It's also true that I tend to mark every major milestone in life with a large Laphroaig session on WF, so why break this enjoyable tradition now. |
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UPDATE: I also just became an Uncle for the first time last night, courtesy of my sister. The best possible 40th birthday present, so this session is really for my beautiful new niece. Like an independent bottling of a heavily protected, top level malt whisky brand, she remains, for now, unnamed. |
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Apart from Laphroaig, I am a Glen Grant lover as well, and this being my 40th, it seems like the sensible course of action to prime our palates with some old Glen Grant. Now, since we are starting out with an aperitif that would ordinarily put the brakes on just about any session, it seems only fitting that we have a strategic 'pre-aperitif aperitif'. Is there a name for that? An amuse-dram? |
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Glen Grant 1948/1960 (70 proof, Berry Brothers, bottled 1960) 
A bottle I opened with recently with good friends in London, Serge already beat me to penning notes for this baby. Colour: pale amber. Nose: some kind of astonishing and miraculous old sherry cask influence that no longer exists. A whole forest of mushrooms, petrichor, damp earths, mosses, aged tobacco, cigars in an ancient and well-kept humidor, peat embers in a cast iron hearth, dried orange rinds, bergamot, cough syrup and more old furniture and library aromas than Downton Abbey (I've never watched it I'm afraid, not sure how accurate that is). Mouth: two parts ancient sauternes, one part herbal cough syrup, two parts green Chartreuse and one part black miso paste. Broths, earth, embrocations, wax, totally dried out honey, herbal teas and peaty camphor (what?). Finish: medium but dazzlingly waxy, earthy, full of dry peat smoke, dried out old herbal liqueurs, very old tobacco and more umami vibes of soy sauce, miso and Maggi! Comments: pretty much as expected. This at even 43% would have been incredible, as things stand, it'll be a mere...
SGP: 562 - 92 points. |
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Glen Grant 27 yo (100 US proof, Gordon & MacPhail, Esquin Import for USA, securo cap, c1963)
I'm not only a Glen Grant fanatic, but a total securo cap geek too, so this is very much 'birthday appropriate'... Colour: deep gold. Nose: one of those aromas that is totally laden with honeys, fir wood resin, pure honeycomb, cask aged mead, exotic hardwoods, herbal tinctures, medicinal embrocations and pure beeswax. Astonishing density - like a black hole for honey and wax! Also tiny salty edges begin to creep in, umami seasonings, broths, waxed hessian, paraffin. With water: just a couple of drops here, but the nose becomes immediately fresher and more balanced by many crystalised and dried exotic fruits, also melon and the impression of a blend of ancient Benedictine and Drambuie (need to try that sometime!). Mouth: you remember 100 proof USA = 50% ABV and we are quite some way from the usual experience of old G&M bottle + 100 proof (which usually equates to around 57% ABV. Not that it isn't immense whisky, and in fact it probably benefitted from that targeted reduction, it's alive with mechanical and workshop oils, vapour rubs, old dried out flower honeys, pure camphor, crystalised lemon slices and endless things like putty, sheep wool, dry herbal notes. The faintest suggestion of dry peat smoke, or perhaps just coal smoke, in the background. With water: more powerful now, more of a gravelly mineral character: struck flints, pebbles and chalk etc. Then hints of natural tar, wormwood, pine resin, salted honey and more mead and herbal liqueurs. Finish: long, herbal, elegantly spicy, some drying turmeric earthiness and more of these dazzlingly dense honey and wax vibes. Comments: as we often observe when tasting these very old Glen Grants: this is pure, effortless class! Perhaps one of the reasons I love Glen Grant so much, apart from its obviously pleasurable qualities, is that there are just so many amazing old bottlings of it to be unearthed, even after many years of searching for and tasting these old rarities. As a whisky it was bottled consistently by the owners but also by so many different merchants, bottlers, importers and private entities. That's easy to understand when you taste these amazing old Glen Grants, but it means there are so many to taste and they document a changing malt whisky over the best part of a century in a remarkable and endlessly entertaining way.
SGP: 662 - 93 points. |
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OK, on with the main act. I will attempt to do this in an order that, more or less, goes backwards in time. If I get it wrong, please complain directly to Serge. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo (43%, OB, litre, c1988)
Colour: gold. Nose: soft, quilty, aromatic peat smoke, sea air and abundant mangos. Really this trademark balance of dry and elegant, yet distinctive peat with medicinal embrocations and exotic fruits. I get the feeling we are going to be really pushing the boundaries of how to describe this profile during the course of this session... Mouth: superb arrival, an almost jelly-like textural exotic fruit, like tropical fruit salad juices pooling in the base of the bowl, all muddled up with some peat embers, a sloosh of seawater and some iodine drops. Stunningly juicy and moreish palate! Finish: medium, but gloriously on peated mangos, passionfruit, dried guava and coal smoke. Comments: pretty emblematic and a perfect jumping off point for this session. No wonder they sold this in litre bottles, utterly lethal!
SGP: 655 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Single Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (40%, OB, Rossi Import, cork, 75cl, late 1980s)
The first of a few by this importer... Colour: pale gold. Nose: very proximate to the litre, but perhaps a noticeable softness which we're assuming is due to the lower ABV. Still, we're in a comfortable world of embrocations, delicate exotic fruits, smoked teas, mineral salts and seashore aromas. Mouth: still shines very brightly at this slightly measly bottling strength. Perhaps a slightly more even balance between peat and fruit here, plus a little more lean towards citrus on the latter. Finish: longer in fact, more lemony, more on smoked teas, seawater, grapefruit and fragile peat smoke. Comments: same as for the litre, but we just lose one point for the slightly softer presentation...
SGP: 554 - 91 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Japanese Import, cork, late 1980s)
Love the line on this label 'Genuine 10 Years Old'... Colour: deep gold. Nose: a significant leap up! This is really a much deeper, richer and more emphatically peaty profile, with strong waxiness, more complex coastal inclusions and even more luscious exotic fruit notes. Fir wood resins, coal smoke, engine grease and sheep wool. Amazing sense of texture. Mouth: just brilliant, immediately enveloping and powerfully peaty, with dried and ripe exotic fruits in harmony, lemon cordial, iodine drops, Umbongo and crystalised mango. Finish: immense, a big, generous and effortless swell of arid peat smoke, sea salt, tar, iodine and jellied tropical fruits. Comments: even if you are highly familiar with these old Laphroaigs, they can still come out of the shadows and mug your socks off if you're not careful. Totally astonishing old whisky of immense character, poise, power and depth that just leaves you a little speechless. This is the quality that I have sometimes referred to as whisky that goes beyond just technical accomplishment and also has 'soul' - even if that does sound like some kind of grasping, latter day marketing doublespeak.
SGP: 655 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (40%, OB, UK market, screw cap, c1985)
We have always assumed that the wee codes in the lower corners of the labels on these old 10 and 15yo bottlings, denoted the year of bottling. In this case it's 85264. Not sure anyone has ever been able to confirm for certain if that's the case though. The first two numbers do generally seem to correspond with the evolution in design and packaging (screw caps to corks etc) throughout the course of the 80s into early 90s. Although, the codes only seem to have been in use from around 84-88? If there are more learned Laphroaig lore wizards out there on the internet, please step forth... Colour: gold. Nose: soft medicinal embrocations, that familiar sense of gentle, yet thick peat smoke, and all the usual underlying dried and preserved tropical fruits. I would add some beautiful heather honey and waxes into the bargain with this one too. Mouth: beautifully luscious with the fruits really up front on this one, supported by stunningly fresh and pristine coastal qualities. Beach pebbles, drying seaweed, rock pools, sand and iodine all muddled in there. Some bitter lemon and grapefruit too. Finish: long, harmoniously fruity once again, on salted honey, delicate peat smoke, some TCP and waxiness. Comments: at first I felt this one was in trouble after that immense Japan import, however, while on the lighter side, it's still gorgeous and commendably stands firm!
SGP: 654 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Rossi Import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
I have no doubt there are plenty of you out there who know a lot more than me about precisely dating these old bottles nowadays, so please forgive my highly 'ballpark' school of bottle dating for these notes... Colour: gold. Nose: We are back to similar Japan import territory. This is similarly rich, deep, much more vivid, immediate and impactful than those later 80s examples. The profile is dense and peaty, with more sherry influence than on the Japan version and a totally stunning salty, umami and earthy profile that brings in nori, seaweed, soy sauce and then goes more towards these tropical fruit notes, only they're more focussed around specifically dried exotic fruits and exotic fruit teas. You really feel the shift in eras here towards 'old' Laphroaig. Mouth: absolutely stunning! Call the anti-maltoporn brigade! Totally beautiful, powerful but simultaneously dry and slightly brittle peat smoke, natural tar, hints of bone-dry Fino en rama, crystalised guava, lapsing souchong, iodine drops and a stunning waxiness, both in flavour and texture. Finish: astonishing, a glorious burst of pure kiln peat smoke, tar, wood resins, camphor, iodine and smoked honey! Comments: I cannot decide between this or the Japanese import, although I find this one a shade drier and peatier.
SGP: 566 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, St Raphael Import, France, screw cap, c1984)
We are going to be having a bit of a battle of the nations in this tasting, I probably should have mentioned previously... Colour: gold. Nose: it's so funny (and amazing) how these various batches / vattings of old Laphroaig 10yo seem to teeter between fruitier versions and peatier versions. This one is really leaning more towards exotic and really rather embarrassingly opulent fruits. A rich medley of passionfruit, guava, papaya and mango. All backed up by wafts of delicate peat smoke, bitter grapefruit, seawater and preserved lemons in brine. No messing about here. Mouth: similarly amazing. These old 10s remind me of the old Lagavulin 12 year old cream label bottlings, in that there are many versions with wonderful, often subtle variations, and most will blow your cotton socks off! Lusciously fruity and getting richer and peatier, gathering power as it goes along. Perhaps a notch sweeter with some subtle honey notes too. Finish: another gloriously long, fruity finish that's compellingly balanced by elegant peat, salted honey, waxes and tiny salty notes. Comments: I would also say that there are probably many more batches of the old Laphroaig 10s compared to the Lagavulin 12s. Anyway, we probably shouldn't score everything 94 points in this session, so, for sake of variety, we'll say a measly 93 for France ;)
SGP: 654 - 93 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Seager's Australian Import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
Here comes Australia... Colour: pale gold. Nose: first the Ghillie's Club, and now this! Whose underback did those Aussie's smooch to deserve this! Despicably fruity, an upturned tropical fruit market. Pure exotic fruit smoothies, sandalwood, distant sandy beaches, coal smoke, tar, lemon oil, seaweed and a single drop of iodine. I'd say this profile feels more driven by lighter, more refill profile wood influence, but that's pure speculation. Given time there's an utterly beautiful and pretty subtle peat note coming through. Mouth: same comments as on the nose, but the palate is saltier and earthier and much more rugged and powerful than expected. Once again, your mind cannot help but think about more refill moulded, distillate driven characteristics. Stunning salinity, hypnotic tropical fruit, perfect, bone-dry peat. Finish: gah, you don't need to know. Whole goonbags full of juicy fruity peaty old Laphroaig! Comments: I'm afraid we have no choice but to return to...
SGP: 655 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, South Africa import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
South Africa's turn... Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps ever so slightly more discreet, that is, on bone dry, beautiful peat smoke, wood smoke, smoked teas, camphor, hessian, salted liquorice, seaweed, coastal aromatics and beach pebbles. A gorgeous profile, but you notice the slight absence of fruits after the previous ones. Now, of course, if we were tasting this after the present batch of 10yo, we'd be veritably gushing about all the fruit on display! Mouth: aligned with the nose, in that it's more dominated and driven by saltiness, coastal qualities, waxes, petrol, medicine, pure peat smoke, tar and camphor. In time there are some glimmers of grapefruit, guava, mango and citrons, but they're all on the subtle and background side of things. Finish: long, glorious, stunningly dry, salty, mouthwatering, would give the greatest Manzanillas and Finos a serious run for their money. Stunning traces of tropical fruit teas in the aftertaste. Comments: we are nit picking, but I suppose we have to. I adore this drier, leaner profile of old Laphroaig, but I also think just a notch more exoticism does elevate things even higher.
SGP: 466 - 93 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (90 US proof, OB, Buckingham Wile import, USA, screw cap, early 1980s)
There are notes for this one multiple times on WF already, to the point that it’s becoming silly. However, as already observed in aforementioned notes, there must be batch variations for these bottlings, which means we always have to record notes whenever a new bottle crosses our path. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. Colour: pale gold (there are certainly darker vattings under this label, so the whole batches argument does bear some weight). Nose: South Africa's salinity + Australia's fruitiness, all given oomph by these extra degrees of alcohol = a totally incredible nose. This goes really into even more exotic and vividly fruity territory, pure, ripe, exotic fruit medleys. Fruit salad juices, seawater, pink grapefruit, waxes - utterly exquisite and mind blowing. Mouth: it's the peat and salty, coastal qualities that dominate and take the lead from the arrival. Amazing precision, power and intense fusion of all these influences. The fruits are still there but they're sharper, more crystalised, drier and even showing a tiny hint of acidity. Indeed, the whole thing is astonishingly fresh, vibrant and immense. Finish: glorious, extremely long, everything all at once but with perfect cohesion and sense of purpose. Comments: mesmerising old Laphroaig. Almost makes you a bit melancholy, imagine if all Laphroaig 10s over the decades had been bottled at 45%... Anyway, I stand by my excuse that there are many batch variations of these old 10s and as such, they are always worth revisiting from bottle to bottle. This one is really quite extraordinary.
SGP: 766 - 95 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Rossi Import, screw cap, 1970s)
Let's see if this one can climb over the USA import. It's entirely possible we did these final two in the wrong order... Colour: deep gold. Nose: deep, fat, earthy peat smoke, layered with dried exotic fruits, tropical fruit teas, dried herbs, ancient medicinal ointments and tinctures, old rope, creel nets, mineral oils, ideas of old leather, beeswax and camphor. You do get the sense that you are going back a step even further into Laphroaig's history. There's a depth, a breadth and fatness of character and texture here that really speaks with the accent of direct coal firing, worm tubs, floor maltings and brewers yeast! With time it's really this stunningly dense, fat, dry, old style peat that totally dominates the nose. Mouth: actually, we needn't have worried at all about whether this one would suffer by comparison. This is really in the same league as other old famous Italian imports such as Bonfanti. What's amazing is, after all those amazing later bottlings, how much you notice the dominance of the peat here and how the character of the peat has shifted so decisively. I would say those 1980s bottlings are on whole fruitier and lighter than this. Finish: very long, extremely peaty, perfectly dry, saline, with delicate tropical inclusions and just a general sense of utter, spellbinding perfection. Comments: I am probably far too generous, far too emotionally bound up in these whiskies and not particularly analytical or professional in the slightest. But, lest we forget, this is WhiskyFUN, and I am turning 40, and I don't care ;)
SGP: 565 - 95 points. |
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I owe hugs to KC and eternal gratitude to Yan for this session. |
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PS: In case you are wondering, 'did he make a megaphroaig blend of all of them?' Yes, of course I did. I'm not an idiot! And you'd be correct, it's pretty sublime. Cheers! |
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July 18, 2025 |
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A mini selection of seriously
boosted Brackla |
No doubt this will be an adventure, as at least the official ones, like their mates over at Aberfeldy, can be finished in some rather unexpected casks. In short, we’ll see what’s in the stash... |
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Royal Brackla 10 yo 2014/2024 (46%, James Eadie, first fill barrel and refill butt, casks #1598-303564, 1155 bottles)
We had tasted an excellent 2013 in the same series (WF 87). Colour: apricot. Nose: curiously winey to begin with, with poached peaches in red wine, stewed cherries, strawberry jam... But where on earth is that coming from? Mind you, it’s most enjoyable, especially as we then veer off towards Battenberg cake (like), chocolate mousse and rosehip herbal tea. Amusing and very pleasant, with vanilla appearing a little later on. Mouth: those surprising winey notes return on the palate, though less pronounced, together with blood orange, bay leaf, cherry stems tea, and a hint of ginger tonic… Finish: same composition lingering for quite some time, with a slightly bitter aftertaste (Seville oranges). Comments: a pretty good wee Brackla, though it feels somewhat less compact, polished and coherent than what James Eadie usually proposes, or so it seems to me. For once.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
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Royal Brackla 10 yo 2014/2025 (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, Small Batch Edition #17, first fill sherry PX hogshead finish)
Another young malt that's fairly ‘budget’, which we’ve absolutely no quarrel with. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh, how funny, we've just popped open a fresh tin of shoe polish while a teapot of lapsang souchong sits nearby, along with a hefty walnut and raisin loaf. You get the picture. Mouth: quite close to the previous one, with a certain tension, but also spiced herbal infusions, salmiak, dark honeys, and even the usual black turrón, here bolstered by black pepper and a wee lick of tar. Finish: fairly long, more peppery still. Peppermint and black pepper as the signature. Comments: again, this wee Brackla was far from typical, but the combination with PX worked rather well.
SGP:562 - 84 points. |
We’ll finish with an official bottling that’s also had a bit of a boost for a few months: |
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Royal Brackla 22 yo ‘Exceptional Cask - Tokaji’ (53%, OB, casks #50,000-50,004, 1380 bottles)
The label doesn’t seem to make it clear, but once again, this is just a finishing, although in the case of Tokaji, that might actually be good news. Incidentally, we’ve never quite understood why Sauternes finishings tend to work fairly well, while those in Tokaji have given us, over the past 25 years, some perfect little monsters. Longrow 1995, anyone? Right then, let’s get to work… Colour: gold. Nose: immediately dissonant, a bit like Ozzy singing Bach, but in the end, I think it sort of works, even if the apricot tart and banana cake notes are wildly ‘over the top’. Masses of cake batter too, pre-oven, already packed with sultanas steeped in kirsch. With water: notes of nougat with a heavy dose of honey. Mouth (neat): it’s like we’re sipping a very sweet muscat, say from Samos. Except this is stronger, of course. With water: imagine a mix of viognier, gewurztraminer and muscat. That’s rather fun too, though I reckon it could use a good deal of ice. Finish: same again, very fruity, almost sweet without quite crossing the line. Comments: perhaps best enjoyed over a Japanese ice ball? We do like it, though maybe not €300-like—it’s a pricey little muscat, ha.
SGP:741 - 84 points. |
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July 17, 2025 |
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A Fettercairn trio, formerly Old Fettercairn
Quite simply because it’s been a good while since we last tasted Fettercairn, which we consider to be one of the few truly transformed malts of recent years. Generally speaking, they’ve become very good — which isn’t something you can say about everyone, is it? |
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It's worth noting that Fettercairn celebrated its 200th anniversary in 1824, as it was the second Scottish distillery to receive an official licence. A series of limited and vintage editions was released, but we've never seen them anywhere. We probably just haven’t looked properly. (Picture Fettercairn) |
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Fettercairn 14 yo (47%, OB, ex-bourbon, travel retail, 2024)
According to the owners, this is an expression where ‘tropical and orchard fruits intertwine with delicate sweet spice’ Let’s have a look then… Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s still a bit of that yeasty, slightly dirty/funky side found in older bottlings, which is exactly what makes Fettercairn a truly distinctive malt. A malt that isn’t at least somewhat distinctive is of no interest, is it? Anyway, it smells of bière de garde, crêpe batter, cider, pear, damp chalk, and indeed there’s a touch of tropicality, though more in the shape of not-quite-ripe bananas than anything properly exuberant. Mouth: much the same on the palate, it’s a little bittersweet, still fairly yeasty, peppery, leaning more towards pear juice than mango, if you catch my drift. Apple juice mixed with mirabelle plum juice, plus a little white pepper and a touch of paprika. Nice enough. Finish: fairly long, with a return of the bière de garde and pepper, and a marked gueuze-like character. Comments: in short, a very good Fettercairn that hasn’t let go of its dirtiness, nor its pepper, nor that very faint soapy edge. Applause!
SGP:662 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 17 yo (47%, OB, travel retail, 2024)
One learns from an airport website that this wee dram contains 259.7 kcal per 100 grams, which adds up to a rather staggering 1,817.7 kcal per bottle, thus explaining why it’s wiser to sip our whiskies in moderation if we don’t want to be upsized too quickly. Amongst other reasons, naturally. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: very honestly (I know, that never sounds like much when you open with that), this isn’t far off the 14-year-old, just more focused on citrus, tangerines, zest, old-school triple sec… Which means it’s less ‘dirty’, but still quite lovely all the same. Mouth: very good, all on mint and citrus, you could almost believe it was a Metropolitan French mojito with a splash of Cognac. Nothing more to add, except that the little combo of wax, ginger, pepper, and paraffin remains tucked away in the background. Finish: fairly long, with no major shifts other than a few touches of bitter orange liqueur. Comments: I like both versions.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 28 yo (42%, OB, first fill bourbon, +/-2024?) 
Let’s be upfront: we weren’t particularly fond of the first version of this 28, some seven or eight years ago. The price was rather high too, though back then all the Scots seemed to believe anything around 30 years old was worth 1,000 Euros. Colour: deep gold. Nose: er… this is somewhere between new trainers, feints, bruised apples, cider vinegar and farmhouse yoghurt! It’s actually kind of likeable, eminently different from anything you’ll find elsewhere, and remarkably easy to intellectualise, if you see what I mean, though it’s a long way from being remotely crowd-pleasing. Right then… Mouth: oof, this is tough, honestly. Like the leftovers of a Swiss or Savoyard fondue from last week, diluted with Calvados by a vindictive soul. Finish: difficult, cheesy, yeasty, peppery, but again, kind of likeable in its sheer strangeness. Comments: a manzanilla gone wrong, without even passing through the amontillado or palo cortado stage. In fact, it’s the extreme oddness of this old juice that gives it charm, though it’s most definitely not one for ‘the neighbours’. Right, that’s enough politically correct commentary.
SGP:372 - 70 points. |
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July 16, 2025 |
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A small sack of grains
We do this from time to time, taste the few grains we've received over the past weeks or months. Note that we’ll be staying in Scotland and avoiding column-distilled malts, which because of that become grains up there. However, if you distil grains in a pot still, they still won’t count as single malts (ooh, S.). Let’s pick one at random... |
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Girvan 33 yo 1991/2024 (46.0%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, barrels)
Colour: light gold. Nose: light and pleasant, on corn syrup, sweetshop treats, vanilla and coconut liqueur. A little chamomile as well. Mouth: still light, sugary, all on sweets and more coconut. A kind of sugary English tea with a good deal too much sugar. Finish: medium in length, no particular development. Sweet and rather narrow. Comments: no wonder it’s not very ‘malty’ at all (I know what I'm tryng to say), and no matter how hard I try, I shall never truly manage to enjoy these ultra-light whiskies originally designed to tame malts and cut costs. Unless we stumble upon some stellar sherry casks, but we shall see…
SGP:630 - 78 points. |
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North British 32 yo 1991/2024 (46.6%, Whisky for Leiden, first fill bourbon, cask #264532, 185 bottles)
In theory, it was corn. Colour: white wine. Nose: I find this much better on the nose, it’s less sweet and more herbal, with a much more restrained coconut and vanilla combo, along with lovely green teas and a touch of blond tobacco. Very pleasant at this stage. Mouth: it really makes a difference on the palate, with admittedly some notes that are a little too sugary for me but also touches of gentian and wild carrot. In short, some rootiness, and that’s something we quite enjoy. Finish: it gets sweeter but remains fairly under control. One just shouldn’t linger too long on the finish, perhaps by quickly reaching for a wee glass of water. Comments: not bad at all, I think.
SGP:540 - 83 points. |
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Invergordon 18 yo 2006/2024 (62.3%, Wilson & Morgan, sherry, cask #446)
Let’s be honest, slipping an ex-sherry Invergordon into a grain line-up is almost unfair to the others. Colour: dark amber. Nose: immediately high-grade old bourbon territory, with varnish and wood glue, maple syrup, toffee, chocolate, chestnut cream and green walnut liqueur. With water: bouillons, cigars and leather! Mouth (neat): are we absolutely sure this isn’t Enmore in disguise? Though do mind the strength… With water: aggressive in a rather charming way, quickly turning ‘Japanese’, with umami, soy sauce and, to be honest, MSG. Frankly, it’s pretty extreme, but we’re not here to do embroidery (our warmest regards to embroiderers everywhere). Finish: varnish returns, alongside chestnuts and walnuts. Comments: top grain, and there really isn’t that much of it about, at least in my humble opinion. One barely even noticed that the aftertaste was actually a tad sugary.
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
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Butterscotch & Vanilla & Toast & a Generation 30 yo (40%, Atom Brands, blended grain, +/-2023)
Blimey, they really went for it! I shall taste this blended grain discreetly; I’d be far too worried someone might see me… Colour: light gold. Nose: well, blow me, it’s not bad at all, with touches of sesame, hay, white chocolate filled with grated coconut, and candy apples… Mouth: it’s light but not weak, featuring sweet herbal teas with rock sugar, still that white chocolate with coconut that might evoke childhood memories for some, roasted peanuts rolled in sugar… All rather pleasant. Finish: not long but as soft as a sunset over a Greek island (really?) A surprising little salty touch. Comments: charming and very understated, almost a no-lo whisky. Indeed, there are good ones!
SGP:330 - 84 points. |
Since we're on the topic of blended grains… |
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Compass Box ‘Hedonism 2024’ (43%, Compass Box, blended grain, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 7746 bottles)
Big effort on the label, very ‘Gustav Klimt’, with a decent budget clearly devoted to the gilding. Colour: straw. Nose: I rather like this, with vegetable oils, leaves, soft little resins, even a faint smoky touch, and above all, mercifully little of that deafening vanilla and coconut duo. Doesn’t feel too weak at 43% vol. Mouth: well, it’s still grain, but it’s neither too hollow, nor too mute, nor overly sweet. A sort of popcorn-in-the-haybarn with a squeeze of lemon, if such a thing existed. Finish: a bit short, but the lemony side saves the day. Not bad. Comments: does the warbling live up to the plumage? Perhaps…
SGP:440 - 82 points. |
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Strathclyde 20 yo (52.9%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Ireland, 1st and 2nd fill marsala hogsheads, 364 bottles)
Unlike malt, grain is really all about the cask, end of debate… And we’re rather chuffed, turns out we were in Marsala barely a month ago, I may have told you before. Yes indeed, that’s Sicily, southwest coast. Colour: full gold. Nose: very smart indeed, the grain has drawn in the earthy fudgey tones of the marsala, even the faint fermentary edge and a whiff of fire-baked bread. With water: gentian! Where on earth did that come from? Mouth (neat): still recognisably grain, the texture remains a little soft, but there are unsweet raisins stepping in to lend a hand. With water: and boom, the gentian returns to the rescue, more discreetly than on the nose. Gentian cordial (do you know Suze?) Finish: medium in length but pleasant, thanks to its earthy, rooty profile. Comments: very fine grain, and a rather unusual one at that.
SGP:451 - 84 points. |
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Girvan 9 yo 2015/2024 (59.3%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon hogshead finish, cask #193413, 280 bottles)
Great Scott, they dared bottle a 9-year-old Girvan! Either the windows at Single Cask Nation HQ were already spotless, or this is actually very good… Colour: light gold. Nose: I’d wager it’s the latter, peanut oil and sunflower oil, with this unexpectedly fatty side, plus faint puffs of ink and light herbal teas. With water: proper popcorn and vanilla cream, then most of all, metal polish and motor oil. Hurrah! Mouth (neat): highly entertaining, it rather feels like swallowing a mix of limoncello and nail varnish—not exactly recommended, mind you. With water: it gets even funnier, with some asparagus, soft soap, varnish and paraffin. Finish: gentler, but marked by almonds, pistachios, and still that vegetable oil. And hey, a bit of pear on the aftertaste. Comments: this is great fun while still managing to be a bit intellectual. Do remember, this is 9-year-old Girvan we’re talking about.
SGP:550 - 85 points. |
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Strathclyde 34 yo 1989/2023 (51.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, oloroso hogshead finish, 366 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: not bad, the sherry does its job, with roasted peanuts, turrón, praline, a pack of blond cigarettes, honey, glacé cherries and raisins. With water: pu-ehr tea, earthy and almost smoky, which is rather nice. Mouth (neat): chocolate, chicory, dried raisins, salted butter caramel. With water: it loses a bit of stamina here, a pity, perhaps best not to add water. Some coconut begins to show, and in this particular context and only in this context, coconut is the enemy IMHO. Finish: not very long but reasonably pleasant, except for the aftertaste which leans a little too far toward stale tea. As usual, it lacks just a touch of texture. Comments: started off very well. Save the water, it’s better, and together, we’ll save the planet.
SGP:550 - 80 points. |
One last quick one, nicely done, hopefully… |
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Port Dundas 24 yo 1999/2024 (51.8%, Whisky Age, hogshead, cask #711825, 247 bottles)
Always those very handsome labels, perhaps just a little too handsome for plain old grain whisky. Alright then, I exaggerate. Colour: white wine. Nose: hold on, something’s gone terribly wrong, they must’ve blended mezcal and nail varnish and bottled the result. Glorious nose, but is this really mere grain whisky? I rather doubt it. That said, let’s not forget Port Dundas was the seminal grain distillery. With water: just glorious milk chocolate. Mouth (neat): crème brûlée and varnish, butter cream, orgeat, pistachio syrup, macadamia nuts… What sort of sorcery is this? With water: no, skip the water, it falls apart a little on the palate. Best forgotten… Finish: coffee storms in, mocha, all pairing beautifully with the crème brûlée. Comments: one might almost call this the perfect 5 o’clock whisky.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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July 15, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today peace, love and Tullibardine
Often a rather unusual malt, in the best possible sense. Let’s see what we’ve got…
(Tullibardine Distillery) |
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Tullibardine 13 yo 2012/2025 (53.5%, Liquid Treasures, The love and peace series, 1st fill palo cortado quarter cask, 117 bottles)
Now then, just like last time, this label feels tailor-made for us boomers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: indeed, it’s the palo cortado speaking loud and clear, and we’re not the least bit displeased. Gorgeous Andalusian vinosity, all on walnuts, mustard, herbs, bitter oranges, but also old cellar, ancient casks, mushrooms, saltpetre… We’re very much into this… With water: splendid walnut and raisin cake with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Already mouth-watering. Mouth (neat): very fine bitterness, just like in a true palo cortado, followed by those bitterish oranges, a bit of tobacco, and a rather surprising basaltic edge. Some preserved lemon too. With water: it rounds out and mellows nicely, though black pepper also makes an entrance. Let’s call it peppered and honeyed orange liqueur. Finish: long, attractively spiced and, above all, thoroughly Jerezian. Aftertaste on crushed pepper and dark chocolate. Comments: we may be closer to Jerez than to Blackford, but that suits us just fine.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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Tullibardine 12 yo 2012/2024 (55.8%, Alister Walker’s Infrequent Flyers, virgin oak finish, cask #804984, 227 bottles)
Well now, one can’t help wondering whether the next use of this cask will be a ‘2nd fill virgin oak finish’, even though that’s clearly an oxymoron, isn’t it. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is rather the polar opposite of the palo cortado version, even if there’s a shared DNA, on baker’s yeast and pepper. Banana skins, mandarin liqueur, sourdough, a drop of shampoo, and a little church candle (votive)… With water: pizza dough and oregano. I’ll have a napoletana, if you don’t mind. Mouth (neat): this is good, defined by pink pepper and a notably lemony hop. With water: that citrusy aspect from the fresh oak really bursts forth and does risk overwhelming the palate a touch. Finish: long, all on citrus syrups and liqueurs. Aftertaste somewhat liqueur-like, then oddly saline. Comments: the sherry version did rather outshine this baby, but it remains a fine little dram. So then, can one actually mature whisky in 2nd-fill virgin oak? Answers on a proper postcard, please.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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July 14, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Unlikely Duos, ex-Saladin box Glen Albyn and fitting guest
Times are tough for little WF. The days when we could line up four Millburns, five Coleburns, or even three Convalmore, or indeed, two Glen Albyn we’d never tasted before, seem to be long gone. |
Glen Albyn around the time when the 10 yo
was distilled (Diageo/SMD) |
But don’t worry, I’m not about to try to make you weep by saying we’re now reduced to tasting Speyside NAS whiskies dressed up in decommissioned red wine casks. Still, when we unearth, say, a rather irresistible Glen Albyn, as we have today, we have to do quite a bit of scheming to find it a worthy sparring partner. In this very case, we looked into which distillery was closest to the old Highlander and found that it was Ord—if we exclude Uile-bheist Distillery, which, having visited last year, still seems highly unpredictable for now. Will we ever get to taste it? We’ll see. But for the moment, feast your eyes on this likely little gem from Inverness… By the way, I thought I had some old Mackinlay blend that, indeed, used to include Glen Albyn, but I must have dreamed it. Anyway, let’s carry on… |
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Glen Albyn 10 yo (43%, OB, ‘Pure Highland Malt’, UK, bottled by John E. McPherson of Leith, clear glass, 75cl, +/-1970)
This is not the one for Italy (D&C Import). Actually, I must humbly admit I’ve often had a tough time with these Glen Albyns ‘OB’, knowing full well that there have been some splendid batches, but also a few rather more troublesome ones. We’re not talking about the 10-year-old cask strength for Giaccone here, are we, clearly a different league. That said, I was told this particular batch we’re having now was top-tier, though I wouldn’t know how to recognise it myself, save for the fact that it’s not one of the Italian-bound versions. Colour: gold. Nose: how about a mix of cauliflower, farmhouse cider, slag, chunks of zamak, paraffin and slate? This is seriously old-school! Mouth: roots of all kinds, with lemon and salt, some quality green peppercorns, curious notes of underripe pineapple, a touch of kale and, above all, papier-mâché with quite an invasive minerality, tinged with hints of vinyl, olive oil and various other dry oils. Finish: oddly long, continuing on salted liquorice and modelling clay blended with apple juice. Comments: it’s almost like listening to Roamin’ in the Gloamin’ by Harry Lauder on an old gramophone. You try scoring that!
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
So, permanently closed in 1983 and demolished in 1988, Glen Albyn was already using malt from a Saladin box rather than traditional floor maltings at the time this 10-year-old was distilled. As was, incidentally, ta-da!... Glen Ord (nice segue, S.). Indeed, Ord upgraded its malting operations in 1961, replacing its traditional floor maltings with a Saladin box. How fitting, as we’re about to taste a 1962… |
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Ord 24 yo 1962/1987 (46%, Cadenhead, Aberdeen, black dumpy, 75cl)
These 1962 Ords can be notoriously variable, despite their legendary reputation, some utterly sublime (such as the CAD 1962/1989 at 55.4%, or the Bouquet by Samaroli…), others more… improbable. Of course, the geeks mainly remember the brilliant ones. Or the utter disasters. Everyone recalls Loch Dhu the black whisky, for instance, but who remembers Jackson’s Row the blond whisky?? Anyway… Colour: gold. Nose: ace! as they used to say at Loch Fyne Whiskies. The most glorious mix of beeswax, sesame oil, peanut oil, basalt and wee citrus fruits, bergamots, kumquats (hello Dutch dentists), leading eventually to a few glints of copper polish, a classic trait of this series, though here it’s nicely restrained. Mouth: unmistakably a black dumpy. It’s very fine, though one day we ought to let some of these old liquids being analysed to see whether they’ve remained drinkable and haven’t been slightly poisoned or tainted by their closures and/or old glass. But let’s drop the decadent and unreasonable hygiene talk—this waxy, salty, and indeed metallic profile is beautiful. This time, it’s grapefruit that takes the lead, followed by a faint hint of leek soup. The wax does return, unmistakably Ord. Finish: rather long, with wax, metal, and metal polish all well accounted for. Some slightly salted apple and grapefruit bring it all together in the aftertaste. Comments: these babies are never easy to score. I’d say the cask strength versions age a little more gracefully, not that anyone will be shocked. But what a stunning bottle!
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
The profiles of this Glen Albyn and this Ord were still remarkably similar. Pure old-school Highlands! |
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July 13, 2025 |
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A few more rums, though not all of them are malternatives |
I'm afraid so… At any rate, not the first we’ll have, as we're making another attempt with A.H. Riise, following the rather terrifying sugar bomb from a fortnight ago, which went by the thoroughly immodest name of "Non Plus Ultra Ambre d’Or Excellence" (WF 30).
('The Neighbours', AI slop) |
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A.H. Riise ‘Family Reserve Solera 1838’ (42%, OB, Virgin Islands, +/-2024)
The solera trick propped up by a pseudo-ancient vintage always seems to work. Naturally, your brain knows it’s a load of old nonsense, but these brands don’t speak to your brain, they speak to your gut. Here, the rums are also said to be ‘aged up to 25 years in oak casks’. The key part, naturally, being ‘up to’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: let’s be fair, this nose is rather pretty, on a blend of tangerines and ginger not entirely devoid of elegance, even if there’s also a faint whiff of Dr Pepper and a touch of lavender toilet water that’s a tad awkward. Still, over ice, this nose kind of works. Mouth: a sugary bomb, as expected, and one gets the distinct impression we’re dealing with far more than the 100g/l measured here and there. Do bear in mind that the legal EU limit is 20g/l, so this is not rum, not even close. And frankly, it’s not good, it tastes like some concoction of fake Apérol mixed with LIDL’s own-brand cherry liqueur. No, no, do not try this at home. Finish: suffocating, cloying, quickly now, three large glasses of sparkling water… Comments: while there’s undoubtedly even worse out there, we’re not far off the lakebed here. In fact, this is more the Mariana Trench.
SGP:920 - 15 points. |
Quick, a reward for our efforts… |
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Clairin Le Rocher 41 mo 2019/2022 (49.10%, The Navigator, Haiti, cask LR17 JD-2-V2)
Bottled by Providence/Velier for Navigate World Whisky in South Africa. Sounds cool. This is clairin ‘ansyen’, Creole for ‘ancien’, which of course means ‘old’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: much like with mezcals, one tends to favour the ‘blancs’, yet here the wood influence after these 41 months remains very restrained, allowing full expression to notes of cider vinegar, antiseptic, cracked olives and furniture polish. Really lovely. Mouth: the oak is a touch more noticeable now, but it morphs everything into a great big parcel of salmiak. So, we’re talking liquorice, olive oil, salt, nutmeg and pine sap, with a bit of ash in the background, which does lean rather ‘Islay’, it must be said. Finish: and it’s also slightly mezcal-like, since we mentioned mezcal earlier. Comments: a blend of salted liquorice and olive oil—hmm, that’s giving me ideas, like a martini of the dead. By the way, we adore this South African clairin.
SGP:363 - 88 points. |
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Diamond 2014/2025 ‘Port Mourant’ (53.6%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter catch 3, Guyana, bourbon, cask #5, 280 bottles)
A young ‘Port Mourant’ from the John Dore pot still. It seems the ester level was very high… Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes, smoked praline over fir wood, puncture-repair glue, brand-new trainers from an improbable DNVB doing business via Facebook, and a whiff of fresh formica that only boomers would recall, though apparently that glorious material is back in vogue. In any case, this feels bone-dry. With water: hay smoke, very trendy with certain chefs. Mouth (neat): this is ultra-dry, like an intensely salty manzanilla aged in fresh cedarwood, or something along those lines. With water: same again, though now we’ve got green olives charging in en masse. Finish: same story, and it lingers for quite a while. Aftertaste: ultra-dry. Comments: packs quite a punch, and as they say, ‘probably not one for the neighbours’. A baby that is to rum what brut nature is to Champagne (S., please, will you stop talking about Champagne?)
SGP:273 - 89 points. |
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Port Mourant 15 yo 2010/2025 (54.3%, Spirit of the Day, Guyana, bourbon, cask #5)
I’m rather fond of the very ‘IBM 1970’ style labels from these small French bottlers. Colour: gold. Nose: we’re extremely close to the previous one, so much so that I had to double-check I hadn’t poured the same rum into two different glasses. Let’s just say there are a few extra hints of dill and anise here, a touch more herbal freshness, but otherwise it’s much the same, which is of course excellent news. With water: it’s definitely that fresh rubber note that characterises these Port Mourant batches from Diamond. Mouth (neat): same story again, though this time there’s a little more pear, with the rest being conifer, olives, rubber and salted liquorice… With water: same comments again. Finish: likewise. Comments: excellent stuff, though still probably not one for the neighbours.
SGP:373 - 89 points. |
By the way, ‘the neighbours’ are absolutely lovely people, who won’t shy away from enjoying a good wine or spirit, though they don’t know the first thing about them, feel no need to learn more, and are perfectly happy with verdicts like ‘I like it’ / ‘I don’t like it’. Which, we quite agree, is far better than ‘it’s good’ / ‘it’s not good’ – the kind of judgement typical of people whose education has been a bit haphazard. That said, ‘the neighbours’ are truly charming people, who might even share our level of geekery, though rather in areas like politics, batik, gardening or country music. We all have our ‘neighbours’, don’t we. Now, let’s move on to Jamaica (the neighbours are also very fond of Bob Marley but they never heard of Sly and Robbie) … |
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Clarendon 24 yo 1999/2023 ‘JMM’ (53.4%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, cask #1, 238 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: all the classic markers of a Jamaican, but delivered gently, it bridges the gap between olives, petrol and varnish on the one hand, and ripe bananas, slightly underripe mangoes and pineapples on the other. With water: a burnt and resinous side comes through, but the fresh fruit keeps things in balance. Some modelling clay. Mouth (neat): more intense on the palate, with lovely salty bitters, tar, sea water, fresh grass, and a few acetoney touches… With water: the esters really lift off, clearly more prominent than in the Port Mourant, which once again highlights the beauty of comparative tastings. Finish: long, just a touch drying, and a little oaky. Comments: we’re still a fair way off the most boisterous Jamaicans, yet this rather lovely Clarendon is already very typical, with a pronounced mango-varnish character.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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Hampden 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘<>H’ (65%, Rest & Be Thankful, LMDW Foundations, Jamaica)
Between their Octomores and their Hampdens, one could say that the house of Rest & Be Thankful has truly carved out its own style, which isn’t all that common among independents. In short, we’re not dealing with chamber music here… I must admit I wasn’t familiar with the ‘<>H’ mark, but it seems it’s in the 1,000-gr ester/hlpa range, the equivalent of ‘<H>’. Geekier than that, you die. Colour: deep gold. Nose: Hampdens hit you like a freight train, instantly and without mercy. Diesel, olives, gherkins, acetone, a touch of ammonia, all wrapped in vanilla and banana cream, though with moderation. I do mean just the vanilla and banana cream. With water: enters the sea, or rather the docks of a northern port, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Hamburg and the like… Mouth (neat): no prisoners taken, but no complaints either. Classic, unfiltered Hampden—salty, petrolic, and then veering more towards something like a mix of cane syrup and frosty mint syrup, just at 65% ABV. Assassins! With water: textbook Hampden, deeply salty and packed with hydrocarbons. Finish: same story, very long, though once again rounded out by that vanilla. Comments: of course it’s rather masterful, but don’t even think about trying to get your neighbours to taste it.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
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Hampden 1 yo 2023/2025 ‘Fino’ (61.9%, The Colours of Rum for Catawiki, cask #147, 75 bottles)
We’re in the 1,300–1,400 gr ester/hlpa range here, which would also correspond to the C<>H mark. See last week’s little brother which had seen some Madeira rather than fino. While we say our prayers, let us remember that Hampden is one of those very rare spirits that really don’t need long ageing. Colour: gold. Nose: I’m sorry to say, I adore this. Utter precision, zero external influence, with a fino that, in any case, is probably playing in exactly the same league. Pushing things a bit, one might even claim Hampden belongs to the fino category of rum. Gorgeous carbon, acetone, and tidal sea water. With water: no change whatsoever. I reckon you could drop this to 10% ABV and it still wouldn’t make much difference. Mouth (neat): insanely vinegary and crammed with brine and ultra-concentrated liquorice. With water: what a creature! A bit more on the plastic side, but it’s plastic that harms no planet. Finish: ultra-long and ultra-saline. We wonder whether the famed fino didn’t just further amplify the profile of this little C<>H. Anchovy in brine. Comments: could we perhaps get more details about that famous ‘fino’? I liked this ‘fino’ a tad better than the ‘Madeira’, which was already quite stellar.
SGP:364 - 90 points. |
These little Hampdens remind us of one of Confucius’s precepts: “Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away.” The trouble is, they’re also session killers, so, adios. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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July 11, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today young
Glen Scotia for CMF |
Well, we’re two months behind. It’s always a bit of a challenge for a somewhat seasoned taster to rid themselves of the biases built up over decades of not always successful experiences with this or that brand or distillery. In any case, Glen Scotia has made great strides in recent years, as has the entire group by the way, starting with Loch Lomond.
(Bodega Vega Real, Castrillo de Duero, Valladolid) |
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Glen Scotia 9 yo ‘Heavily Peated’ (54.3%, OB, Campbeltown Malts Festival 2025, Ribera del Duero finish)
Given the extreme makeover (unusual peatiness, Spanish red wine), I must confess I rather hesitated before approaching this baby, but then again, why not, let’s see whether it truly jars or how badly it does. Right, see if we’re in the realm of strawberry-coffee-mustard style... Or not. At any rate, Spanish red wine continues its invasion of Scotland. Colour: great maiden's blush (that’s a real colour). Nose: indeed, there’s something of the artificial strawberry sweet and cigarette ash about it, but also a coastal breeze that feels quite pleasant, along with some blood orange. With water: a chalky note emerges, orange peel, sourdough, bakery scents. Mouth (neat): very odd but not unpleasant, very taut, very much on grapefruit and lime, with some scratchy ash in the background only. It almost feels like a syrup-free Caledonian ti-punch. With water: rather nice, though we’re quite far removed from traditional malt whisky territory. The flavours remain clean, sharp, nervy, and still heavily on vivid citrus. Finish: fairly long, with no major changes save for a touch of brine atop citrus peels. Raspberry makes a late entrance in the aftertaste, together with some… cinsault rosé. Not sure they have cinsault in Ribera del Duero, have they? The vast majority is tempranillo anyway. Comments: there’s something both youthful and uninhibited in this concoction that, all things considered, I find rather endearing, even if, truth be told, it’s not exactly ‘my thing’. But love the great Riberas.
SGP:755 - 82 points. |
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Glen Scotia 8 yo 2014–2016/2025 ‘Glen Toon’ (57.1%, Decadent Drams for Campbeltown Malts Festival 2025, 1st fill hogshead and barrel, 430 bottles)
A blend of 2014 and peated 2016 composed with evident care, well, one imagines. Colour: pale gold. Nose: shock and awe, this one blasts the official bottling without the slightest hint of shame. Far more mineral, and not far from a fine Chardonnay, with chalk, dandelion flowers, flint in a most Chablis-like fashion, some lees, bread dough, and honeysuckle. With water: lovely vanilla emerges, strudel too, but above all, a good deal of stones and wet pebbles. Mouth (neat): the balance is rather clever between the peat and the citrus-driven tension. At this stage, it’s closer to a Sauvignon Blanc, though still packed with flint. With water: excellent, bitter oranges and ginger tonic, with a pinch of salt and one of white pepper. All this works beautifully. Finish: long and curiously refined for such a young stylistic blend. Italian bitters in the aftertaste, Campari direction—I do mean direction. Comments: clearly, some proper work went into this, whether in the lab or in the kitchen. It clicks together shockingly well considering the age.
SGP:464 - 88 points. |
Hold on, we've found a third one – let's taste it quickly… |
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Campbeltown Blended Malt 9 yo 2014/2023 (54.3%, Whiskyfacile, Black Cat, sherry hogshead, cask #23, 96 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: rather lovely sherry with a faintly ‘bourbony’ touch (pencil shavings), featuring delicate notes of game birds, dried figs, toffee, and cigar box. With water: fresh cement and equally fresh pumpernickel. We're getting closer to the raw ingredients here. Mouth (neat): cedarwood is quite forward, alongside salted butter caramel, fudge, millionaire’s shortbread, and raisins… Very nice texture. With water: out come the fruit loaves, crusty farmhouse bread sheltering bits of candied zest, raisins, figs, and apricots. Would you kindly pass the butter? This should go down a treat with foie gras. Truly. Finish: long, just a wee bit more ‘dirty’, ‘leafy’, with the tiniest flecks of ‘gunpowder’. Comments: really very, very good, though ever so slightly on the ‘adventurous’ side.
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
Another lovely little tasting session today. Even if, frankly, we could do without those red wine casks, which are starting to get quite tiresome. Soon enough, the guidebooks will be saying that Scotch whisky is distilled beer, aged in neutral oak casks, then flavoured with wine from Spain, Italy or France. Let’s quickly light a few candles to make sure that never happens… In any case, may no one accuse me again of talking too much about wine in our very modest and rather clumsy tasting notes! LOL (as we used to add B.I.C. - before the informational chaos). |
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July 10, 2025 |
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Some Aberfeldy and some red wine
The brand’s use of wine has become so massive it’s actually quite funny. The trick is to take it all with a pinch of salt. Look, here are two new examples today – both limited editions. |
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The cynics might say that’s actually the best news in all of this... I just hope these babies won’t overshadow the impression left by their recent and very excellent Aberfeldy 2014 ‘Exceptional Cask Scottish oak finish'. |
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Aberfeldy 15 yo ‘Finished in Bolgheri Red Wine Casks’ (46%, OB, Red Wine Cask collection, batch #2924/B, 2024)
Now then, Bolgheri is the very place where those super-Tuscan Bordeaux-style blends hail from, which, truth be told, we rather struggle to finish (Sassicaia, Ornellaia and suchlike) The worst of Italy, really, despite their having so many other absolute marvels elsewhere. Imagine gleefully planting Sangiovese or Nebbiolo in France! Madness. Colour: gold. No rosé hue, thankfully. Nose: naturally it’s all right, it doesn’t reek of raw stave or new planks, but there’s a duo of pepper and green capsicum, along with blackcurrant bud, which always tends to set the nerves slightly on edge. It’s a layered nose, one might say, with a delayed and restrained arrival of raspberries and cherries. Mouth: decent, though not terribly charming, with a rather awkward and somewhat Janus-like split personality. Raspberry liqueur-filled chocolates, green pepper and cardamom, with cherry and black pepper stepping in a little later to help steady the ship. Finish: fairly long, though rather leafy. Comments: definitely an improvement over other, previous red-wined ones
SGP:561 - 77 points. |
Right, I’ve probably ruffled a few feathers again, I’m afraid. But wait, here comes a genuine Italian… |
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Aberfeldy 18 yo ‘Finished in Sangiovese Red Wine’ (46%, OB, Red Wine Cask collection, batch #2924/A, 2024)
Sangiovese is the noble grape of Chianti, responsible for some of the world’s greatest red wines. But in whisky, well, let’s see, though philosophically, we’ll take this over some dreary ‘Bordeaux blend’ any day. Colour: gold. Remarkable how little visual impact these wine casks actually have. Nose: phew, as expected, this is much better, more on Mediterranean scrubland herbs, myrtle, waxes, wild cherries, even olive oil and maraschino. Altogether a very Italian sort of Aberfeldy. Mouth: now that’s more like it indeed. Far more expressive, herbal, slightly acidic, jittery, with tart cherries and the kind of liqueurs our southern friends do so well, plus, predictably enough, a few pretty notes of grappa. Still not entirely Scottish malt whisky in soul, but the European flair is rather charming. Finish: long, and quite strikingly on bitter orange and pepper. I even get two or three black olives, though perhaps I’m dreaming. Comments: a lovely result from what sounded like a daft idea. Perhaps next time with the finest Gran Selezione?
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
Phew! Let’s move on to a young, naturally presented Independent, and that’ll be us done for today… |
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Aberfeldy 10 yo 2014/2024 (60.7%, Fragrant Drops, refill bourbon barrel, cask #252, 207 bottles)
This ought to be clean as a whistle. Colour: gold. Nose: new-make barley eau-de-vie, orange and banana peels, barley sugar, muesli, baker’s yeast, brioche dough… Exactly what one expected really, we’re firmly in raw ingredient territory here. With water: no real shift, save for a little vanilla and even more barley syrup showing up. Mouth (neat): rather like this, it’s all apples, pears and an assortment of little plums, with a fairly assertive farm-cider vibe. Nature at full throttle! With water: the beers come charging through, reminding us once again that whisky is, first and foremost, distilled beer. Finish: long, a touch more herbal, a notch more peppery. Comments: basic but very likeable, in a super-natural, very young, very rustic style.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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July 9, 2025 |
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Five Linkwood B and one Linkwood A |
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| Linkwood when A was still standing (geograph) |
There’s been quite a bit of Linkwood among the independents lately, and we’re certainly not complaining. Especially since we’ve also got a Linkwood from the old distillery up our sleeve – just wait and see… Let me remind you that Linkwood A was the original distillery, founded in 182, with production starting around 1824/1825. In 1971, a second facility, Linkwood B, was built next to it to increase production capacity. From 1971 to 1985, both Linkwood A and B operated in parallel. In 1985, the original distillery was permanently closed (and demolished around twelve years ago) and only Linkwood B remained active. Everything we’re going to taste, then, comes from Linkwood B, except the last one. |
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Linkwood 9 yo 2015/2025 (50%, Elevenses Whisky, Fairgound Delight, refill bourbon hogshead, 694 bottles)
Some newcomers to the scene, I presume, as I’d never heard of Elevenses before. The bottle’s rather amusing, it’s a bit reminiscent of Spanish grapeseed oil, and the price is almost as reasonable as that of actual grapeseed oil in Spain. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: it’s fresh, youthful, very close to the distillate, with notes of gherkin brine, pear juice and sunflower oil. This is clearly all about the raw materials. With water: a touch of geranium blossom, some cake batter, and a slight saponification after dilution… Mouth (neat): curiously a tad saline, otherwise quite barley-forward with hints of fruit peelings, apples… With water: more malty and more floral, even slightly peppery but that’s probably just its youth showing. Finish: medium length, on pear and still that faintly saline edge. Comments: jolly pleasant and above all very natural.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Linkwood 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.8%, Fragrant Drops, oloroso quarter casks, casks # 29791-29792, 294 bottles)
From the same parent company, it would seem. The whisky’s pedigree, however, is clearly heading in the opposite direction… Colour: amber. Nose: coconutty oak, walnut wine, dried figs, dates, sultanas… All very pleasant indeed. With water: tobacco and Thai broth. Mouth (neat): creamy, on candied ginger and coriander seeds (the oak again), orange marmalade, a touch of yellow curry, dates… With water: works a treat, a lovely spicy, peppery profile with sweet paprika and lemon-tree honey. Finish: long, spicier still, with a big gingery comeback. Comments: serious work with those quarter casks, you either like it or you don’t, but there’s no denying it’s been very well crafted and tightly steered.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Linkwood 10 yo 2013/2023 (57.1%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Spring, refill bourbon barrels, cask # 307180)
Colour: white wine. Nose: pure pears and cherry clafoutis. With water: a drop of barley syrup. Mouth (neat): pretty superb, taut as a bowstring and bursting with fruit. Pear eau-de-vie straight off the still, with a few dashes of vanilla for good measure. With water: no major changes. Finish: long, same story, clean and fresh. And very much on the pear. Comments: slightly reminiscent of the Elevenses but with a bit more bite. Lovely bottle.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Linkwood 15 yo 2009/2025 (56.2%, Signatory Vintage, Symington’s Choice, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #8, 683 bottles)
They’ve really become the emperors of sherry at Signatory over the past couple of years, haven’t they, with some rather prime space left vacant by certain major Speyside distilleries. Colour: mahogany. Nose: this is the expected style, cedarwood, touches of graphite, chocolate, umami notes, a lovely meaty character, and some proper Corinthian raisins… With water: in come mentholated and camphory touches, though the cedar stays firmly in place. Pencil shavings. Mouth (neat): oh, very good, more on the earthy side, black pepper, liquorice, walnut liqueur (big time) … With water: even more powerful, loaded with spices and wood extracts, yet oddly enough, balance has been struck. Finish: long, almost thick, still on pepper and cedarwood. Comments: this one really speaks volumes. Definitely a bottle to cellar for, say, thirty years, just to smooth out the corners.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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Linkwood 16 yo 2008/2025 (58.7%, Signatory Vintage, The Whisky Exchange exclusive, Bourbon Cask Series, cask # 800064, 174 bottles)
Now this, this is surely a clever one… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s oily yet bright, with a touch of fusel oil, but also splendid yellow citrus and wild wee apples, service tree berries, jujubes and the like. All this on a panettone fresher than a daisy at dawn. Gorgeous vanilla cream, plus a sheet of carbon paper. Okay, Gen Z? With water: in comes motor oil and even a bit of Bakelite. Boomer territory, barely. Mouth (neat): oh yes, fresh, rich, yet fresh, yet rich, on vanilla cream, sunflower oil, granny smiths and golden delicious. With water: lemony, fatty, very good, fresh, beautiful apples. Finish: fairly long, still on green apples, malt, and a very discreet vanilla + coconut combo. Rather brilliant. Comments: yes, very good, really taut.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
It’s already time to wrap things up… |
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Linkwood 12 yo 1959 (43%, OB, for Samaroli Silvano, 2 litres, +/-1971)
Here comes Linkwood ‘A’! One of the very first imports by Silvano Samaroli! And bottled in a two-litre format no less, hence a ‘super magnum’. There were other vintages in this ‘black label’ series, 1958, 1960… But not in super magnum, I believe, those are exceedingly rare. Colour: gold. Nose: wait a moment, I was mistaken, this is Sicilian olive oil blended with a few drops of moped fuel mix. Ex-Malaguti, perhaps? This kind of opulent fatness could only come from an old-school distillery, here ‘old’ Linkwood indeed. Lovely little hints of charcoal, setting spray, ink, grated lemon zest… It’s the fatness and texture on the nose that truly impress. Mouth: to be honest, there’s a hint of soapiness, a touch of light-struck flavour, but the rest unfolds on plasticine, apple peel, walnut and almond skins, and above all that famously saline manzanilla character. Finish: same again, textured, oily, not showing its age in the slightest. The barley itself remains as well – just imagine, likely harvested in 1958! Comments: let’s be honest, this is clearly an old malt for die-hard geeks, but here’s to you, Silvano-in-the-sky!
SGP:352 - 89 points (though emotionally, much more). |
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July 7, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today middle-aged Longmorn OB vs IB |
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| We’re about to get the latest of the official 18-year-olds, which I believe followed the famous 16-year-old that somewhat alarmed enthusiasts at the time, due to its very high price compared to the previous 15-year-old. In short, we’re going to compare this latest 18-year-old with an IB of a similar age, randomly selected from the sample library at WF HQ. |
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Longmorn 18 yo (48%, OB, +/-2025)
Aged in American oak and traditional hogsheads. Careful, not to be confused with the Annual Releases 2023 or 2024, which are cask strength. Colour: gold. Nose: this strikes me as much better than the recent 16s (circa 2022) which rather lacked oomph, now this one’s quite rounded and soft, and clearly more on the pâtissier side than the fruity, especially if one compares it to bottlings from the 1980s. Custard, warm scones, shortbread, dandelion blossoms, notes of orange liqueur, touches of redcurrant and apple, then white chocolate and a little coconut, all with due restraint… In short, everything's ticking along nicely. Mouth: more malty on the palate, a touch rougher after that very civilised nose, more on candied oranges and lemon zest, then baked apples with a good bit of cinnamon. Stewed peaches. Finish: fairly long, more citrus-forward, with orange, pear, honey, and also a few grassy touches. A bit of panettone then turns up, especially on the aftertaste. No complaints whatsoever. Comments: what one might call a perfect allrounder, I don’t see who wouldn’t like this (barring a few fierce competitors). It does better than simply stand in the shadow of its cousin at Glenlivet.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Longmorn 17 yo 2007/2024 (43.8%, Whisky-Doris, barrel, 132 bottles)
A small and thoroughly trustworthy German outfit, warmly recommended. Worth noting this is genuine cask strength, no reduction whatsoever. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: exactly what one hopes for from a slightly old-school independent bottler, meaning a malt close to the distillate yet with its own character—here we’re treated to some lovely notes of chalk and apples which, to be honest, bring to mind a good champagne made purely from pinot meunier. Those are all the rage these days, by the way. In short, I adore this nose. Mouth: getting closer to the fine official bottling, but even though it’s 5 degrees lower in strength, this one feels punchier, more lemony, with a touch of wax and those endlessly fascinating chalky or even limestone notes still very much in play. Even if this isn’t a malt of immense complexity. Finish: fairly long, on lemon, apples and beeswax. We shan’t bang on about champagne again, but still, I’m thinking of Boizel’s Brut Ultime or Drappier’s Clarevallis, both extra brut yet rather different. Comments: sorry for harping on about champagne instead of this truly lovely natural Longmorn. Entschuldigung.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
In short, none of them disappointed. Promise, we’ll do a big Longmorn session very soon. |
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