| |
| |
August 15, 2025 |
|
  |
WF’s Little Duos, today Lindores Abbey |
We don't often get to taste 'new cats' on their own like this, except perhaps Daftmill and Ardnamurchan. But rest assured, it’s something you’ll be seeing more and more of on WF… And here we are in the Lowlands, right across from the famous abbey where Scotch whisky was born - at any rate, no one’s ever managed to prove otherwise. |
(Lindores Abbey Distillery) |
Oh, and the address? Naturally, it’s ‘Abbey Road’. And on top of that, today is the Feast of the Assumption — how fitting, WF! (Just joking) |
|
Lindores Abbey ‘The Cask of Lindores II’ (49.4%, OB, bourbon cask, 2023) 
I don’t believe we ever tried Batch 1. Colour: white wine. Nose: green pears, vanilla and chalk. It’s very simple, square-cut, efficient, pretty. In the second layer, a few whiffs of apple shampoo – that’s right. Mouth: herbaceous but also fruity, close to barley and yellow citrus. A few touches of varnish, before the pear returns, and finally a sack of 245 kilos of jelly babies. Finish: fairly long, on fruity sweets like those famous Swiss Sugus. Comments: all this is very ‘Lowland’, a bit in the style of certain old Auchentoshans from days gone by. Is it triple distilled?
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
|
Lindores Abbey ‘Thiron 2024’ (49.4%, OB) 
A rather amusing tale of partnership with the mother abbey of Lindores, the Abbey of Tiron, in France at Thiron-Gardais, south-west of Paris. This youngster matured in three types of casks, namely ex-red wine, ex-bourbon and fresh French oak from the region around the Abbey of Tiron itself. Why not! Colour: straw. Nose: similar to the previous one, though a tad more marked by fresh oak, which, you’ll say, was to be expected. The good news is that the red wine influence is barely noticeable. It’s pretty, balanced, and dare I say, suitably monastic. Mouth: nice presence, fruity, with a clearly defined but fresh woodiness, a touch of pepper, and plenty of apples. Finish: rather herbal, though not particularly long, on infusions and liquorice wood. Comments: a very charming bottle, just a wee touch too oaky for me.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
With a shout-out to all our very distinguished Belgian friends from the now very quiet Lindores Whisky Club in Ostend. |
| |
August 14, 2025 |
|
|
Some Glenallachie and quite a bit of sherry
Amazing how this name has grown in importance in recent years. Well done. |
 |
|
Glenallachie 12 yo ‘Sauternes Wine Cask Finish’ (48%, OB, 6,000 bottles, +/-2022)
These are obviously not the kinds of expressions we usually favour (the ‘wineskies’), yet you never know, Sauternes can sometimes work rather well and at GA they do know their way around finishing/double maturation… Colour: light gold. Nose: vanilla, apricot yoghurt, mirabelle yoghurt, all-flower honey ‘from the European Union’, then herbal infusions, lime blossom, chamomile and so on. Nothing to complain about, a lovely nose. Mouth: quite creamy, close to a first fill bourbon, without too many obvious nods to Sauternes, rather on a fine apricot tart topped with vanilla cream and acacia honey. A few little jellybabies from Haribo. Finish: medium in length yet tighter, leaning more towards lemon. The aftertaste is more herbal. Lemon jellybabies, all in all. Comments: cool, very easy bottling.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
|
Glenallachie 14 yo 2007/2022 (64.9%, Signatory Vintage for Waldhaus am See, Animal Edition No.2, first fill sherry butt, cask #900164, 538 bottles)
Here we are in St. Moritz, Switzerland, in the Engadine. A charming place, though in this case, at 65% vol., it’s clearly not for the faint of heart. Colour: dark amber. Nose: caramel, toffee, fudge, millionaire’s shortbread (unsurprising in St. Moritz), dried raisins… But the alcohol does block it a little. With water: sherry, sherry, sherry. A rather pleasant vinosity, in fact. Mouth (neat): it packs a punch and feels a touch rustic. Corn syrup and caramel. With water: it remains a bit rough, close to the eaux-de-vie of which, I’m certain, they produce a fine contingent in the Engadine. Plenty of kirsch, above all. Finish: same again, it’s a bit monolithic. Comments: perhaps straight from the bottle after a long day’s skiing? Quite a beast, at any rate.
SGP:461 - 82 points. |
|
Glenallachie 9 yo 2014/2024 (58.6%, Best Dram, 1st fill PX sherry hogshead, cask #9900214, 315 bottles) 
Colour: dark amber. Nose: absolutely all in on the toffee and caramel, as if this bottle had been tailor-made for Starbucks! As such, it’s simple, but very charming in that simplicity. With water: sorry, but we must roll out the Mars bars once again. Family pack, please, plus a superbly ‘over the top’ mix of honey and moscatel. Mouth (neat): liquid caramel, but also all manner of young Catalan rancios and thick, sweet muscats. PX in action, but here it seems to work rather well. Beware: if your lips start sticking together mid-tasting, that’s perfectly normal, no need to dash off to your doctor. With water: splendid! Heaps of raisins, but we’ve nothing against raisins. Finish: same again. Comments: extremely full-on in the sweet PX style (PX isn’t always sweet) but I must confess I rather like this extravagant side. The neighbours will love it.
SGP:741 - 86 points. |
|
Glenallachie 14 yo 2008/2023 (54.1%, Duncan Taylor, Single Cask Collection, sherry, cask #30900803, 628 bottles)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: fairly dry sherry, rum, very dry raisins, nuts, pecan pie, roasted peanuts… With water: raisin rolls, scones, cheesecake with muscat raisins. Mouth (neat): there’s a PX side to it, but drier, less extroverted, and therefore perhaps a little less, shall we say, stimulating. Bitter oranges and grey pepper. With water: it’s the cask’s ‘honey’ that takes the lead, and one doesn’t feel the distillate has much else to say. Finish: fairly long, on honey and sultanas. The aftertaste is more herbal. Comments: in this style, I tend to think it’s better when it goes fully extreme, decadent, exuberant and frankly ‘too much’, if we’re doing it at all. Here, it’s really very lovely, but still a touch on the polite side…
SGP:651 - 80 points. |
|
Glenallachie 2008/2022 (64.7%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Kirsch Import Germany, sherry butt, cask #80901090, 598 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: curiously gentle and mild given the voltage, though it still carries notes of old walnut, damp wine cellar (right, dunnage) and cabbage leaf. With water: saltpetre and slag. Not exactly top-notch, let’s say. Mouth (neat): a little muddled, on green pepper, artichokes, aubergines, pea pods and leather. I doubt the intention was for anyone to tackle this baby without a single drop of H2O – it’s as rough as a Prussian Unterfeldwebel, as my dear grandmother, born in the 19th century, might have put it. With water: better, you’ll say it was about time, but it still feels rough and, frankly, somewhat marked by sulphur. Finish: fairly long, more herbal, yet also with bitter oranges. Comments: not hugely convinced by this cask, which clashes like a rapper who’s lost his backing track.
SGP:471 - 77 points. |
Time for one last one, as we’re starting to flag (just a bit) … Come on, let’s make an effort! |
|
Glenallachie 30 yo ‘Batch 4’ (49.1%, OB, cask strength, 2024)
We’ve never tried any of the previous 30-year-old batches. In this case, it’s five casks, three PX and two oloroso, though we don’t know if this was full maturation or just re-racked ‘at the right time’. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: strawberry jam turbocharged with kirsch and cognac at first, then leather, tobacco, mulled wine and, indeed, rancio come quickly to the rescue. Whiffs of rose petals and patchouli lend charm to this composition which, let’s admit, gave us a bit of a fright at the outset. Mouth: this is good, very aromatic, rather oriental in its spicing, almost like tasting Japanese red bean paste seasoned with umeshu and caraway. If that sounds strange, don’t worry, it’s a very fine old Glenallachie, even if it feels as though it’s been through a touch of cosmetic surgery in Istanbul or São Paulo. In short, very good, just a little surprising. Finish: long, sweet, passing through pine nuts and old plum liqueur, which ties back to the aforementioned umeshu. It ends on blackberry, raspberry and blueberry jams. Comments: a lot of cask work here, quite evidently. Raspberry really is something else!
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
In the end, our favourite was the 9-year-old from Best Dram. Long live Best Dram! |
| |
August 13, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Glengoyne
We miss seeing much of Glengoyne these days; twenty years ago, the famous zero-peat Highlander was a regular presence on WF. But that was another time…
(Glengoyne has the amusing (and rather marketing-friendly) quirk of distilling its whiskies in the Highlands but maturing them in warehouses on the other side of the road, in the Lowlands.) |
 |
|
Glengoyne 18 yo (43%, OB, +/-2024) 
Nice to see this one now at 43% vol., as more recent versions of the 18-year-old were still bottled at 40% vol., which did feel rather stingy in the current climate. Here we have a marriage of first fill and refill sherry. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s a fact, this is quite a splendid nose, very gentle, very classical, with a subtle maltiness complemented by soft honeys, orange liqueurs, lemon peel, a twenty-five-kilo sack of fully ripe apples and a two-hundred-and-fifty-gram bag of sultanas. In truth, the sherry plays in counterpoint and never once overwhelms at this stage. Mouth: to be frank, it brings to mind certain old bottlings of Macallan, doubtless it’s the sherry that’s responsible for that impression. Let’s say the 18-year-old from vintages of the 1970s. So, sultanas, the faintest touch of menthol, a very light earthy and mushroomy side, orange cake, honeyed gingerbread and apricot, plus a wisp of tobacco. Finish: not very long yet perfectly classical. Honeyed tisane and very ripe apples in the aftertaste. Comments: a slightly amped-up version would be a smash hit.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
We’ll dig out an old version to serve as a sparring partner… |
|
Glengoyne 1972/2013 (46.8%, Malts of Scotland, Angel’s Choice, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 13009, 124 bottles) 
We’re still on the hunt for what might have caused that remarkable abundance of extraordinary malts from the 1972 vintage—perhaps an alignment of planets? Or maybe a massive clearance of first-class casks just as the loch of whisky at the time had reached truly excessive levels? Colour: gold. Nose: simply s.u.b.l.i.m.e. Very delicate and wholly unexpected wisps of smoke wafting over a basket of dried or fully ripe fruits. Apricots lead the dance, followed in step by very ripe plums and papayas, then comes an exquisitely subtle beeswax. There’s much more besides, but let’s move on if you don’t mind. Mouth: a great whisky, a great vintage, and in addition a bourbon cask that has left the distillate largely unmarked. This could almost have been a fifty-year-old Grande Champagne from an excellent small house. Let’s move along, this skittle, as we say here, is twelve years old and there were only one hundred and twenty-four of them. Finish: same again, but how superb it is! Comments: so, was there an alignment of planets over the Highlands in 1972? Or perhaps a comet in 1971, likely the year of the barley harvest?
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
| |
August 12, 2025 |
|
|
Seager Evans’s distillery, built in 1958–1959, was, as R.J.S.S. McDowall wrote at the time, “such a change from the many drab places which exist, a breakaway indeed from the almost studied careless shabbiness of the Speyside distilleries.” Quite so. The current ‘new’ owners, Elixir Distillers, have not yet released any spirit they’ve distilled themselves, but they have already offered some interesting ‘semi-official’ bottlings from existing stocks, such as this one… |
 |
|
Tormore 10 yo ‘Toasted Barrels’ (48%, OB, Blueprint Cask Program, 1,500 bottles, 2025)
The ‘replica’ wave shows no sign of retreating, and this design strongly evokes the old official Tormores from the 1970s. You’ll say those were excellent!... Toasted casks are a different breed from the usual charred ones typically used for whisky, but a strong toast will also leave its mark on the contents, leaning towards coffee yet with fewer tannins. Colour: straw. Nose: for the moment we’re on mineral and citrusy tension, which brings to mind some young Pulteneys we’ve just sampled. It’s fresh, with a fatty side on the nose (sunflower oil, green banana, peanut butter) but, thank goodness, there’s no avalanche of coconut and vanilla in sight. A few dandelion petals fluttering in the background. Mouth: there’s a distinctly spicy and resinous edge here, one wonders whether it’s European oak—or even Mizunara? Also heaps of maquis honey with a punchy character, and a definite juniper note that’ll have you sailing straight across the North Sea to Holland. Let’s not forget the speculoos, which are also quite dominant. All in all, it comes across as more of a blend component, and in fact that’s exactly what it is, the future ‘new’ Tormores won’t be flying solo in this particular style. Finish: hints of mint liqueur and turmeric. Comments: very unusual and leaning more towards the spirit of some young Germanic distilleries, I’d say. That said, it’s very well executed.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
|
Tormore 13 yo 2011/2024 (54.3%, The Whisky Cask Company, oloroso finish, 221 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: of course, a finish is not quite the same as full maturation in second-fill, but sometimes you get awfully close, and that seems to be the case here. Lovely toffee, dunnage, old bodega butt from Jerez, coffee, the inevitable slightly singed walnut cake… With water: plumes of pipe tobacco. Haven’t puffed one in ages, barring a borrowed pipe from our friend Max last year, but still adore the aroma. Mouth (neat): opens with orange marmalade laced with ginger and pepper, then moves into wildflower honey (nothing from large-scale agriculture), before circling back to toffee and fudgy caramel. I find this very good and rather successful. With water: classic sherried whisky territory, textbook stuff really, and without the slightest fault—no spent matches, no truffle, no town gas, no cabbage soup. Finish: same again, very good, creamy, orange, caramel and fudge. The pepper makes a welcome comeback on the aftertaste. Comments: very well done, TWCC.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Perhaps a few older Tormores?... |
|
Tormore 33 yo 1990/2023 (49.8%, Brave New Spirits, Cask Masters, 190 bottles, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #1989)
Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes indeed, this has a lovely fatness right from the start—fresh butter and sesame oil, glorious notes of freshly snipped greenery, then clementines and a whole basket of apples. Add a few floral touches and you’re looking at a nose that’s supremely elegant and rather classic. Mouth: brilliant, perhaps teetering on the edge of coconut macaron overload, but it’s so well balanced here that it becomes utterly charming. Flower jelly, green tea, candied sugar, and once again that overflowing basket of apples, plums, pears, peaches, greengages, apricots, and… (S., we get the point). Finish: medium in length, once more nicely fatty, with a touch of pistachio oil and some orange. The orange cleverly keeps the coconut in check, which is no small achievement, mind you. Comments: a beautiful ‘young old’ malt, with the layered complexity of age and the sprightly brightness of youth. You see what I mean…
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
|
Tormore 31 yo 1992/2024 ‘For Mankind’ (45.4%, The Whisky Barrel, Apollo 11 55th anniversary, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #1036, 263 bottles)
I fear humanity may be in need of more than a fine whisky and a trip to the moon in these trying times. Colour: deep gold. Nose: that lovely fatness returns straight away, but here it shifts quickly toward dark turrón and maple syrup, kougelhopf, and damp forest floor after a summer rain. There are whiffs of basalt too, though the question is whether they’ll carry over to the palate, which could be slightly awkward. Let’s see… Mouth: not at all, it’s a precise oloroso profile, led by both old and green walnut, then cocoa and dark tobacco. Bone-dry like a great oloroso, it deserves nothing but applause. Finish: ah, now the fruits arrive, in a bit of a chaotic stampede. The faintest brush of black truffle and saltpetre. Comments: the perfect counterpoint to the 1990. Give it a little time and, despite the relatively low strength, a drop of water to ‘stir up the fruits’.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
|
Tormore 33 yo 1992/2025 (53.7%, Whiskyland, chapter 12, 157 bottles)
The label rather brings to mind the old film ‘The Wicker Man’, doesn’t it? Perhaps this is a whisky intended for certain wild rituals in the far northern reaches of Scotland, let’s see. Colour: straw. Nose: well now, it’s the same—or nearly—as the 1990, only a touch more refined, but conversely a little less fruity. A bit more on perfectly ripe baby banana, and absolutely no trace of coconut, so none of that ‘Scottish piña colada’ effect here. You see what I mean. With water: we’re setting course for minerality and mirabelle plums. Very lovely, fresh, elegant, easy-going, well-balanced. Since it’s just us here, it rather brings to mind those old Benriachs from the 1970s. Mouth (neat): rich, fruity, and spot on. Fruit salad with honey and olive oil, oranges of every variety, and a very welcome touch of salt. I do think we don’t mention salinity often enough when it comes to mouthfeel in malt whisky. With water: the citrus takes centre stage now. Very fine indeed. Finish: ultra-classic, fresh and fruity, with loads of small, slightly fatty components that remain eminently elegant. Comments: what a trio these three older Tormores have made!
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
| |
August 11, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today
Balvenie and Burnside |
Burnside is the name given to teaspooned Balvenie, as everyone knows, so it’s officially a blended malt. What we don’t know, however, is the size of the teaspoon used in the process, nor what it’s made of. Scrap metal? Brass? Copper? Silver? Solid gold?
|
 |
|
Burnside 28 yo 1996/2025 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection)
A rather amusing case (sort of) since while these Burnsides are indeed produced by William Grant, it is WM Cadenhead who owns the brand. One imagines there’s ample material here to keep a few lawyers in cigars, but let’s not trouble ourselves with such matters between gentlemen. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakable whiffs of slate, mirabelle plums and apricots, then yellow blooms, mimosa, chamomile, broom and yarrow… Followed by freshly baked brioche with the merest drop of orange blossom water. Classical, archetypal, fresh and upbeat, not what one would call a labyrinthine dram at 28. Mouth: fairly rich, heavily leaning towards honey and preserves, where apricot and mirabelle once more make a confident showing, joined by a juicy Williams pear. Syrupy notes then take the reins, rendering the whole affair rather luscious, though some citrus keeps things agreeably in check. Finish: medium in length, mostly on honeys and syrups drawn from yellow flowers and fruits, with a most decisive touch of mullein. A dusting of white pepper edges forward in the aftertaste. Comments: an utterly charming little dram, very much in the Balvenie mould. The reticent cask influence is an unqualified asset.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
|
Balvenie 19 yo ‘A Revelation of Cask and Character’ (47.5%, OB, The Balvenie Stories, European oak sherry, 2023)
A proper full maturation in sherry casks, which is rather less common than many would imagine. European oak is seldom used as well, come to that. This bottling pays tribute to those charming coopers, which is, of course, a much more familiar theme in whisky, isn’t it. Colour: full gold. Nose: all of Balvenie’s signature traits are on display here, as we’re not dealing with a full-blown sherry assault, though more in the direction of prunes wrapped in bacon than mirabelle jam, even if a few somewhat unexpected perfumy notes do flutter in—I’m thinking iris, a lightly musky edge, posh cologne, orange blossom water, even a splash of raspberry eau-de-vie… Mouth: stewed red fruits show themselves fairly boldly upfront, with even a slight sangria character (well done to the Spanish coopers!) yet the balance is never lost, as the oranges, including bitter ones, then march in to complete the picture, alongside dark honeys. A whisper of leather. Finish: the leather and cherry-scented tobacco take the reins, the whole being of moderate length. Comments: a very, very lovely variant of Balvenie, though we do still lean towards their versions showcasing massive yellow fruits, ha.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
| |
August 10, 2025 |
|
|
|
|
A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A small selection of cognacs and armagnacs |
|
| Domaine d’Espérance (Domaine d’Espérance) |
Since it is Sunday! We shall start with one or two old bottlings of cognac from big houses, as an apéritif… |
|
Otard ‘X.O.’ (40%, OB, cognac, +/-1980) 
This baby was matured at the Château de Cognac, according to the silkscreen-style back label. Otard, apparently now Baron Otard, is a house you hear less about these days; even we at WF have only tasted very old bottlings or very old vintages. Colour: amber. Nose: lovely nose, honeyed and full of raisins, thus rather rich, but with a mineral and earthy tension in the background that adds much complexity, not to mention those tiny mentholated and camphory touches that appear after a few seconds. In short, on the nose, this is beautiful, a lovely surprise. Mouth: really very soft, one feels syrups, a fatty and sugary side one could do without, a bit of a pity. Vin de paille, pineau, sweet muscats, all that. This liqueur-like side is not really for us. Finish: rather long, still gentle, even slightly cloying. Still loads of raisins. Comments: we liked the nose a lot, the palate less so. I do not think this is OBE, despite more than forty years in bottle.
SGP:740 - 76 points. |
|
Camus ‘Célébration’ (40%, OB, La Grande Marque, 1970s)
A version launched by Camus to mark their centenary in the 1960s; let us see how this cognac has resisted the passing of time… Colour: dark amber. Nose: already on the nose, much drier and more vegetal than the Otard, perhaps more marked by slightly more rustic crus, which we like a lot here. A touch of marc, then undergrowth, coffee in great elegance, and liquorice that grows ever more present. Mouth: this time the condition is perfect, the style rather complex, a little caramelly yet also beautifully earthy and resinous, with the arrival of the proverbial ripe vineyard peach and the no less proverbial maple syrup, which further pushes the caramel side, whether the latter be entirely natural or slightly ‘boosted’ in the kitchen. You see what I mean. Finish: fairly long, lovely, quite fresh despite that caramel, even with a slightly malty side. Comments: a fine old bottle, and easy enough to find.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
|
Pierre de Segonzac ‘XO La Rencontre Lot90’ (40%, Art Malts, Grande Champagne, 2024)
Formerly house Pierre Ferrand. I think the House Pierre de Segonzac is no longer related to Cognac Ferrand. The rest of the story is a bit complicated, so let us rather focus on the juice… Colour: bright amber. Nose: formidable nose on dark nougat and praline, with just a very light varnish and a touch of bud. Not very far from the old Camus, truth be told, only this is more compact, most elegantly compact. Mouth: a slightly old-style cognac, blending apricot tart with fir honey and, once again, maple syrup and toffee. Not such a light structure at 40% vol. Finish: fairly long, closer to the grape cluster but still dominated by honey and maple syrup. Touch of peach liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: very much in the Camus style.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
Let’s have a little Armagnac… |
|
Domaine d’Espérance 23 yo 2001/2025 (49.7, The Colours of Armagnac, Bas-armagnac, No.1, cask #71, 210 bottles)
Pure folle blanche! It is really nice to see rum or whisky specialists taking more and more interest in armagnac. Domaine d’Espérance is located in Mauvezin-d’Armagnac, in the Landes. Colour: amber gold. Nose: very much on dark honeys of all sorts, the panettones we keep mentioning here, then agricole rum à la Neisson (I assure you) and, if you search well, minute puffs of garlic-fried ceps. Which, of course, is utter murder. Savoury. Mouth: much firmer on the palate, with toasted oak that takes you in a gentle pincer movement, plus a slightly acidic coffee grounds side, the whole thing being utterly beautiful. This style suits armagnac so well! Now, where are those garlic ceps? Finish: very long, on resinous woods and menthol tobacco of the Kool type. I have no idea if the brand still exists. Plenty of dark chocolate and mint in the aftertaste. Comments: a slightly combative armagnac, if you see what I mean. It is very, very ‘armagnac’.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
|
Laubade 23 yo 2001/2025 (50.7%, Grape of the Art, Bas-armagnac, cask #90, 251 bottles)
Here is pure baco, or Gers piquepoul, a cross between folle blanche and noah said to be a little less refined, but in our glass, we have never noticed that. But we are no experts… Colour: full gold. Nose: the complete opposite of the previous one, much rounder, sweeter, seductive, fruity, floral, in other words more dangerous. I find mainly tonnes and tonnes of tiny dried figs, the queens of dried fruits. Though the fig is not a fruit, it is a flower, did you know? Also mandarin liqueur. In short, magnificent. With water: white Bordeaux of twenty years or more. Mouth (neat): of great beauty, full of ease, citrus, flower jellies and honeys and pear liqueur. Superb notes of old sémillon. With water: even older, and less old, sémillon. One drinks this like wine, frankly. Finish: not that long, but still totally seductive, with what we could now call a ‘muscaty’ aspect at this stage. Comments: absolute danger here, goes down like iced tea. Peach, naturally. They should add a warning sticker to the bottle.
SGP:641 - 91 points. |
|
Garreau 36 yo 1988/2025 (45.9%, Liquid Treasures for Korea Brandy Society, Bas-armagnac)
The independent Garreaus have undoubtedly been among the revelations of recent years. Colour: full gold. Nose: again a very different profile, this time we are in sweet wine territory, VDN, Rivesaltes, floc de Gascogne, sweet PX, apricot liqueur, agave syrup, with a very slight toast… On the nose this is beautiful, we just hope the palate will not be too, let us say, schmalzy. Mouth: no, but it is very fruity, while displaying fairly marked oak, so it stretches between black teas and fresh fruits, but I find that it works very well. Sultanas then arrive en masse and join a very infused Earl Grey tea. Finish: long, fruitier, between Williams pear and mirabelle, with pink peppercorn as counterpoint. Comments: the Laubade is a session-killer, so a thousand bravos for surviving with panache and even glory.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
|
Domaine Lous Mouracs 1986/2025 (47.3%, L’Encantada for German Armagnac Festival 2025, Ténarèze)
Ugni blanc and colombard, and 35 years in wood, so, I suppose, a few years in a demijohn. Colour: amber. Nose: again, a pack of Kool or green Dunhill’s, so tobacco and mint, then small aniseed and varnish touches before tipping towards peach and apricot soup. Then it carries on with a procession of tisanes and infusions, among which we shall note especially thyme and rosemary. Impeccable. Mouth: mainly on fruit soup flavoured with mint and liquorice. You could list dozens, of course apricots and peaches, but also all sorts of plums. The slight varnish and clove side is still there too. Finish: long, now really rustic, but that is what one expects from a Ténarèze. Relatively marked tannicity. Comments: a magnificent country armagnac, to drink on a picnic (if you are not driving afterwards, of course).
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
|
Hontambère 1988/2025 (44.3%, POH!, Ténarèze)
100% ugni blanc here, and a name that has made its mark among malt freaks lately. Quite rightly so. Colour: amber. Nose: cooked fruits in abundance, we feel like visiting a jam factory in full production. A few real touches of tomato sauce too, which is utterly brilliant, then crazy amounts of damson, sprinkled with cinnamon and white pepper. Finally, a touch of pinot noir, I have no idea where that comes from. Mouth: again the rusticity of the Ténarèze, tannins, prunes, old plum spirit, strands of dark tobacco (let us say unfiltered Gauloises) and liquorice wood. Even notes of cured ham, Bayonne-style, in short this is serious stuff. Finish: long on, ach, erm, euh, Mon Chéri. Sorry. Comments: we are borderline ‘corrida’ here. A rusticity one might say is fully assumed.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
Here, for the last one, we’ll shift things a bit… |
|
Domaine de l’Arlot 2007/2025 (51%, Authentic Spirits, fine de Bourgogne)
I remind you that a fine is distilled wine, so cognac and armagnac are fines. The difference here in Burgundy is that the grape varieties used are intended to make (great) wines, whereas those of cognac or armagnac are ‘distillation’ grapes, which rarely make it into wine to be drunk as such. In any case, here we are in Nuits-St.-Georges, the most terroiry of the red Burgundies in my humble opinion. We adore them. Colour: gold. Nose: utterly treacherous because for now, I feel we are in Cognac. Stewed peaches and pears, sultanas, apricots, jasmine, only a few waxy touches and those closer to ‘the stalks’ suggest a difference. With water: little change. Mouth (neat): only a few touches we might call ‘fat and rustic’ signal a difference indeed… At least at the start, for gradually, we draw nearer to leaf, soil, even marc and stalks… With water: the waxy and herbal side strengthens; we are no longer in Cognac at all. Touches of glue, almond skins, fresh walnuts, fresh mint… Finish: long, herbal, textured. Comments: I find this very good but rather intellectual; I think it calls for immersion… in Nuits-St.-Georges.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
| |
August 8, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little duos, today
Amarone vs. Madeira |
I mean, Glencadam, which we like, but also, more wine craziness. In other words, let’s not expect too much… |
|
Glencadam ‘Reserva de Madeira’ (46%, OB, 2024)
A straightforward Madeira finish, but that might actually work with Madeira, one knows the score. Thanks to the excellent Glencadam, we’re soon to complete our grand tour of the world’s wines; only Lichtenstein’s Pinot Noir will remain (which, by the way, isn’t half bad). Colour: gold. Nose: a touch winey and fermentative at first, then veering towards fudge and peanut butter. A few whiffs of lees in the depths of an old cask, some cider, and a faint vinegary note, though nothing off-putting at all. Mouth: it’s alright, fairly coherent, with caramel, baked apples, a touch of mustard, and rustic cider. We’re not quite in Calvados territory, but then again, we sort of are. Finish: surprisingly short, like a shooting star (wow, S., how poetic). Comments: genuinely better than just decent. We hope this sort of bottling might inspire some to explore the eponymous wines, in this case, the grand wines of Madeira.
SGP:631 - 79 points. |
|
Glencadam ‘Riserva di Amarone’ (46%, OB, 2024)
Good heavens, Amarone! You may say there are some fine ones out there but let us gently remind ourselves that this is essentially a kind of red straw wine, hyper-concentrated. It’s about as close to malt whisky as Vladimir P. is to the teachings of Mahatma G. Colour: pale gold, surprisingly. Amarone, really? Nose: not a trace of Amarone, red wine, red berries or anything of that ilk, not even cassis jelly, cherry cream or strawberry jam. In short, it’s just malt, charming, well-made, pleasant, on baked apples and, still, a few discreet little berries. Mouth: hard to pin down, rather winey but wavering, with a slightly shaky character and, in any case, it’s sweet. Fruit pastes, preserves, candied cherries… Finish: becomes trickier, more vinous. Comments: the Madeira still seems to have the upper hand in this debate, even if we’re not exactly sipping from the mountaintops.
SGP:641 - 77 points. |
So, we’re hoping for the Liechtensteiner Pinot Noir very soon… |
| |
August 7, 2025 |
|
|
Today Laphroaig twice crazy
I know, we knocked back litres of Laphroaig in July, but the Element 3.0 has just arrived, so let’s have it. We’ll also have a ‘Secret Islay’ of around thirty years of age; unfortunately, we know the quality of those batches, and it’s doubtful that the new official release, good as it may be, stands much chance in this fratricidal duel... |
|
Laphroaig ‘Elements L 3.0’ (55.3%, OB, 2025)
Laphroaig remains one of the rare distilleries still managing to flog NAS whiskies at lofty prices, let’s be honest. But there’s a tale here, as this one is apparently ‘the result of a fire in our kiln that burned peat for longer and at higher temperatures than usual’ Now isn’t that awfully credible? Colour: gold. Nose: it’s mostly pronounced woodiness we’re getting here, fir sawdust, green tea, and a peat that, at this stage, prefers to whisper rather than shout. The whole remains bone-dry nonetheless. With water: still bone-dry, now leaning into soaked cask wood, fig leaves, and green tomato vines. Mouth (neat): not unpleasant on the palate, somewhat oily and cask-driven, though a few exotic fruit notes do peek through, the sort that once built Laphroaig’s reputation, beyond the love it or hate it USP. On the other hand, those green tannins and that oddly artificial smoke become increasingly grating and assertive. With water: a sliver of gentleness emerges, circling around lemon marmalade, but let’s not kid ourselves, it’s the bare minimum. Finish: long but rather simplistic, with an astringency that overstays its welcome. Comments: really not great, in all honesty. L 1.0 and L 2.0 were considerably better in my humble opinion, and at €175.00, this is frightfully not very good value, we must humbly add.
SGP:476 – 80 points. |
|
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky 30 yo 1993/2024 (48.2%, Casky Finest Selection & Revel Hibiki, refill barrel)
We’re back in Hong Kong this time. As they say, these ‘secret’ independent Laphroaigs from the late 1980s to early 1990s generally range from the superb to the utterly sublime. Colour: straw. Nose: magnificent soft camphory and briny sweetness, rather in the style of that other Islay distillery now under the same ownership (right, Bowmore), plus wet campfire ashes suddenly doused by a cloudburst. Could one get more poetic? The usual tiny oysters are in place, almond oil as well, and a bit of soot. However, it isn’t medicinal in the slightest. Mouth: thirty years is indeed the perfect age for peated Islays, and here comes further proof. The bitterness is exquisite, should you share my fondness for it, with salinity cranked up to eleven, flashes of green pepper, then heaps of ashes, with that peculiar impression of having popped a cigar in backwards. An extinguished one, naturally. Finish: rather long and very dry, pushing even further into the ashes, which may be a tad drying but who cares in this setting. A whisper of lemon on the aftertaste, and even a wee dash of cough syrup. All in all, textbook Laphroaigness. Comments: only drawback, there are no surprises. Well played once again, Hong Kong whisky people.
SGP:367 - 91 points. |
| |
August 6, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today young Pulteney ex-bourbon
Always a real pleasure to head a bit further north, along the east coast…
(AI slop) |
 |
|
Old Pulteney ‘Harbour’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
A small NAS probably rather kind-hearted, matured in first and second fill bourbon casks. If it doesn’t lean too heavily on vanilla cream, this could be quite good indeed… Colour: white wine. Nose: no, this is fine, quite the opposite in fact, it’s fresh, the sea is clearly perceptible too, with touches of salted candied lemon, grapefruit, and streusel. Nice coastal tension, just what one expects from Pulteney. Mouth: slightly softer on the palate but the balance has been especially well crafted, there’s none of that vanilla-and-sawdust overload one might have found in similar bottlings ten years ago. Grapefruit returns, along with passion fruit, seaweed, our friends the oysters, and a white pepper that does its job without being over the top. Finish: fairly long given the strength, a bit ‘old-Ardbeg-ten-long’, we’re talking early 80s to early 90s batches. Comments: I find this super good, certainly a worthy candidate for the Bang-For-Your-Buck title this August.
SGP:552 – 86 points. |
|
Pulteney 13 yo 2012/2025 (58.9%, Lady of the Glen, refill barrel, cask #800134, 241 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the profile is naturally quite close but it’s even less marked by American oak, consequently showing more lemon and green apple, and naturally more power as well. At this stage, it also seems a little more mineral than maritime, or so it seems to me. With water: we’re extremely close to the wee ‘Harbour’, only leaning more clearly towards minerality and even greenness. Mouth (neat): powerful, cutting, extremely sharp, all on lemon and soluble aspirin tablets. Lemon-flavoured tablets, for example. This minimalist side is very lovely indeed, we sometimes call these babies ‘Bauhaus’ whiskies. With water: it becomes very chalky. As luck would have it, we do like that. Finish: very long, ultra-precise, dominated by a maritime lemon. Perhaps there are lemon trees in Wick? There are some on the other side, near Ullapool… Comments: a superb creature, taut as a competition bow (and the first to mention Agincourt/Azincourt again will answer to me).
SGP:552 – 87 points. |
| |
August 5, 2025 |
|
|
Four Glen Grants, three aged 30 years and one old 12
(a session that nearly failed)
Remembering that Glen Grant was the star, before other more heavily marketed brands started muscling in on the market. We’re talking fifty years ago, aren’t we. Here, let me give you an example to illustrate the point…
(In the 1980s, all brands were running more or less the same adverts, here Glen Grant in Italy.) |
 |
|
Glen Grant 12 yo (43°GL, OB for Armando Giovinetti, Italy, 75cl, +/-1970)
In a square bottle. Colour: gold. Nose: unbelievable medley of stewed fruits, candied fruits, peat, ashes, coastal notes, old toolbox, waxes and beeswax polish, all delivered with unfathomable mastery. There. Mouth: implausibly fruity smoke, with incredible fatness, waxes, camphor, a touch of gentle turpentine, mountains of candied fruits and sultanas… Only the relatively modest strength might be considered a tiny flaw after all these years. This, at 100° proof! Or indeed 100° Gay-Lussac. Finish: yes, not tremendously long, but splendid, with marrow dumpling broth and smokiness in the aftertaste. Comments: one wonders why Giovinetti seemed to have moved on to Macallan a few years later…
SGP:652 - 92 points. |
Right, now three bottles aged around 30 years, simply arranged in order of increasing strength… Good luck to them, after the 12-year-old Giovinetti… |
|
Glen Grant 29 yo 1995/2024 (45.6%, Signatory Vintage for Wu Dram Clan, bourbon barrel, cask #88198, 1996 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: this is a basket of fully ripe pears and apples, completed with a little barley syrup and acacia honey, with only the faintest mentholated touches. A few vineyard peaches also saunter in after a few minutes. It’s simple, pinpoint, perfect. Mouth: the apples and custard glide over the pears in this subtle and curiously refreshing mix, which then unfolds into lime blossom, thyme honey, then a few citrus notes and a slightly mentholated pepper that grows increasingly assertive. Finish: medium to short in length, slightly more on the herbal side, which is quite expected. Comments: an old whisky that’s fresh and fruity, more of a ‘drinker’ than a sipper, if you see what I mean. We love it here.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
|
Glen Grant 30 yo 1994–1995/2025 (46.6%, Decadent Drinks, Whiskyland, Chapter 14, 360 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: I’m terribly sorry and must offer my deepest apologies to the gentlemen at Decadent & Land, but this is, for all intents and purposes, the same whisky as the previous one. If you dig really deep, you might find a very slightly more exotic note, but that would be it. Mouth: perhaps a touch more tension, and a slightly more pronounced herbal side, though that may well be down to the extra 1% ABV. Finish: the same story. Comments: truly sorry, but this is the kind of problem that sometimes arises when our tasting lineups are a little too, perhaps overly, consistent. In short, another top Glen Grant to gulp down with no further justification than taking sheer pleasure.
SGP:641 – 89 points. |
|
Glen Grant 30 yo 1994/2024 (57.5%, Milroy’s 60th Anniversary, bourbon barrel, cask #10045)
The honourable bottlers remind us on the back label that Glen Grant was being offered as an official single malt as early as the 1930s. Colour: straw. Nose: zut alors, the same phenomenon occurs, this one just seems a little closer to herbs and leafy greens, along with lemon peel, though that may stem from the significantly higher bottling strength. With water: perhaps a chalkier touch. Mouth (neat): on the palate it feels tighter and more nervous when at cask strength, a little ‘greener’. With water: it’s almost identical to the others at similar strength (more or less). Finish: same again. Comments: same again.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
The deciding factor: you shuffle your glasses at random, then try to figure out which is which once they’ve all been reduced to a similar strength. Here, it’s virtually mission impossible, except, of course, for the sublime 12-year-old Giovinetti. |
| |
August 4, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Isle of Raasay including the Macleans'
This is one of the new distilleries that has managed to establish its own style and character, even though times seem to be tougher, as they are for many others. For our distinguished readers who may not be aware, the Isle of Raasay lies just to the east of Skye. Today, we’ll be exploring the latest release for the remarkable Maclean Foundation. But to begin with, a lighter version in terms of alcohol... but not in terms of story! |
 |
|
Isle of Raasay 3 yo 2001/2024 (50.7%, OB, Quercus Humboldtii Virgin Colombian Oak)
Frankly, this Colombian oak lark really makes one chuckle, what an idea! Do note this is full maturation, not some afterthought finishing, but then again, this baby is only three years of age. Let’s not get into carbon footprints, shall we… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s mad how our brain works, knowing the oak hails from Colombia, I’m getting coffee and cola, but also an abundance of candied fruits and a few lovely whiffs of fir smoke. For now, it’s a very pretty nose. With water: more cola yet, everything else boosted as well. Very jolly. Mouth (neat): this is good, it’s creamy, it’s rather rich, it’s modern, veering between coastal smoke, candied orange peels and a splash of pine bud liqueur. One could almost believe it came from some American craft distillery. With water: really splendid, with more turmeric stepping forward, indeed rather leading the charge. Also some heather honey. Finish: long, on strictly identical flavours, which is good news. Lovely notes of pink and white pepper. Comments: I find this really excellent, and I doubt one could do much better at three years of age. ‘Colombian oak’, I must be dreaming…
SGP:654 - 87 points. |
|
Isle of Raasay 5 yo 2019/2025 (61.1%, The Maclean Foundation, charity bottling, release 3, cask #557, 246 bottles)
The proceeds from this baby, launched in parallel with Charlie Maclean’s three sons rowing across the Pacific (9,000 miles, no less!), are earmarked to fund clean water access in Madagascar, a most worthy cause indeed. Colour: deep gold. Nose: gorgeous tangerines, turmeric once more, all gentle and rounded, with papaya and guava, a whiff of fresh panettone from Panettone & Panettone, and a faint trace of Italian bitter. All in all, this one feels rather Italian, this Raasay, but at Château WF, that’s always good news. With water: tiny spices and hints of damp earth, like strolling through a hothouse filled with exotic flora. Mouth (neat): I feared it might flounder after the Colombian variant, but not a bit of it, this is gloriously oily, brimming with honey and citrus fruits sprinkled with posh peppers. With water: excellent, more of everything, beautifully fruity with all manner of citrus and slightly earthy spices. Finish: long, candied, with flavours clearly aligned with Italy. The finest of amaros! Comments: I hereby certify, on record, that my score has not been boosted simply because it’s a charity bottling backed by the Macleans. Swear on the holy barley, cross my heart and hope to die, this one stands proudly on its own. – Serge.
SGP:652 - 90 points. |
| |
August 3, 2025 |
|
|
Rums from Brazil to Trinidad
In fact, we're going to Brazil, Madeira, Mauritius, Cuba, Trinidad, Panama and Jamaica. Does that work for you?
|
 |
|
Casa Engenho 8 yo (43%, OB, Brazil, +/-2024)
From a ‘Traditional Brazilian Farm Distillery’ near São Paulo, established way back in 1889. This isn’t cachaça, mind you, but rather proper rum, distilled from the estate’s own cane juice. Now nothing whatsoever to do with the Madeiran ones from Engenho Do Norte or Engenho Novo, which we’re rather fond of. 'Engenho' means ‘mill’ in Portuguese. There, now we more or less know everything… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s light yet shows a lovely salinity, faintly fermentary touches, and even hints of ashes and iodine that wouldn’t bother anyone fond of coastal malt. Then there’s some freshly sawn fir wood sneaking in. All in all, a fresh and charming nose. Mouth: same general sensations, a fine salinity again, a discreet but rather charming vinegary edge, then increasingly camphory notes that veer into the medicinal. One only wishes it had packed a little more punch. Finish: the fresh cane makes itself known, though the finish doesn’t hang about for too long. Comments: this is most pleasing, I must say I quite like it. I’ll see if I can get my hands on more.
SGP:352 - 82 points. |
|
William Hinton ‘Smoked Rum’ (40%, OB, WH Club, Madeira, +/-2025)
Rum from Madeira, presumably of the agricole persuasion, finished in ex-peated whisky casks. What could possibly go wrong? Colour: gold. Nose: well, let’s be honest, it seems to work, as the fermentary, slightly mustardy ashes from the rum meld rather agreeably with the peaty smokiness of the whisky, even bringing out a rather amusing tar-and-anise combo. But the devil always lurks on your palate… Mouth: mad stuff, but it still works. Capers and olives, bags of ashes, lime juice, and again that touch of mustard, even a wee bit of horseradish and ginger à la sushi-bar. Finish: medium in length, still very pleasant, with a lingering impression of smoked olives. Comments: now here’s a surprise! Just goes to show… Though it’s a pity it wasn’t bottled with a little more oomph. How many times do we write that each week?
SGP:363 - 84 points. |
Well then, let’s continue the journey with another rum that's been in a whisky cask… |
|
Penny Blue 15 yo 2009/2024 ‘Ex-Whisky’ (60%, OB, Mauritius, LMDW Foundations, cask #206, 94 bottles)
Attention, this is not a finishing, it’s a full maturation in an ex-whisky cask. Perhaps ex-Glenrothes, as Berry Bros. are at the helm? Colour: amber. Nose: soft and rounded, all on cake and the sort of pastries served in proper British hotels for afternoon tea at five o’clock sharp. We shan’t list them all but suffice to say the whisky influence remains rather discreet. With water: it’s the sugarcane that takes centre stage, and perhaps there’s a touch of malt in the background. Mouth (neat): very powerful, lemony, plenty of sugarcane but it clearly calls for water. With water: creamy and gentler, with candied citrus peels and the faintest whisper of salt. It remains a light-textured rum, as do most Mauritian offerings, at least in my limited experience. Finish: of medium length, mild and easy-going. Comments: well, it wasn’t an ex-Laphroaig cask!
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Let’s carry on with whisky… |
|
The Outlaw Rum Co. 2019 ‘Flagship’ (40%, OB, Trinidad, cask #001)
So, Caribbean rum aged in Huntly (rings a bell) in ex-Scottish whisky casks. Colour: gold. Nose: full-on petrol and we’re all for it, likewise that gloriously overripe mango that fills the room like some tropical potpourri. At no point do the low ABV levels make themselves known, at least for now. This must be TDL. Mouth: very good! Same markers—petrol, mango, bananas, liquorice, hints of jasmine, a drop of seawater and half a black olive—though the wattage does feel a tad restrained. Finish: lovely, but the lack of punch becomes more apparent here. A pity. Comments: really excellent, but let’s have a slightly more ‘bodybuilt’ version next time, please.
SGP:642 - 85 points. |
|
Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (51.9%, Whiskydudes, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #88191, 128 bottles)
Supposedly one of those old HC casks (not too sure, some are) many of which turn out to be quite splendid. We approach this one with the same greedy anticipation as a large cat locked in a cupboard for three days (true story—though not us, the cat) … Colour: dark red amber. Nose: maestro-level stuff indeed, albeit a little reticent for now, all on old wood varnishes, cocoa, naturally cigars (but of course), and blood orange liqueur… I reckon a few drops of water will help it come alive. With water: magnificent, the tiny herbs emerge, alongside soil, undergrowth, mosses, and a whisper of umami. Mouth (neat): it is sweet, but in the very best way, with a wide array of syrups and liqueurs—orange, prickly pear, grenadine, violet, and yes indeed, sugarcane. With water: the herbs come back, so do the soft spices, though the syrupy texture persists. Finish: long and very gentle. Comments: it does feel like it may have been ‘dosed’ either at birth or somewhere along the way, but it suits it rather well, no worries there, even if the semi-sweet profile is quite pronounced.
SGP:740 - 88 points. |
|
El Ron del Artesano 2007 (57.4%, OB, Panama, oloroso sherry cask, +/-2024)
Panama may not be our favourite rum source, but this is without doubt our preferred Panamanian-fuelled brand. Colour: gold. Nose: what’s rather charming here is the combination of hay and dried flowers with toasted hazelnuts, all wrapped in a rather elegant molasses note. With water: curious whiffs of bagasse and damp fields after the rain. Mouth (neat): creamy, easy-going, in the style of the big-name supermarket rums, only much better, even if there’s more caramel and praline than strictly necessary. Loads of orange liqueur as well, and a grapefruit that helps to hold everything in tension. With water: nothing to complain about really, I suspect this is the best you can hope for in this sweet style. The oloroso seems to help a little, though it’s not a dominant feature. Finish: not very long, but clean. A slightly sugary aftertaste, nonetheless. Comments: a lovely Panamanian, no doubt, and it stays well within its style.
SGP:640 - 85 points. |
|
Boulet de Canon ‘1’ (46%, Compagnie des Indes, blend, +/-2015)
We’re rather fond of this small French outfit, even if I believe they’ve been keeping a low profile of late. All’s well? This one’s a blend of rums from Trinidad, Barbados and Guyana, finished in Talisker casks. Indeed. They’ve released many Boulet de Canons since, but this is the first, so it carries a bit of historical weight (of sorts). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s fresh, all on yellow and white fruits, it feels youthful, with a faint smokiness (Talisker?) that’s actually quite pleasant. More of a pocketknife than a cannonball at this stage, but we’ve nothing against a trusty penknife. Mouth: earth, ashes and even a hint of peat take the lead at first, though it quickly turns sweet. There’s a rather straightforward cane syrup character here. Finish: medium length, sweet and gentle in style, though never excessive. Comments: the name conjures something along the lines of a rampaging tyrannosaurus, but this one’s more like a cuddly lamb. Here too it feels a bit like it may have been slightly ‘dosé’ as they say in Champagne.
SGP:632 - 80 points. |
|
Trinidad Distillers Limited 16 yo 2008/2025 (63.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club #3, Trinidad, 231 bottles)
Same question as when tasting Caroni, ‘heavy or light?’ Or a bit of both? If there’s no petrol-mango in here, I’ll eat my beret. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: petrol-mango (too easy, S.), freshly sawn orchard wood, peanut butter, and quite a bit of ethanol which initially gets in the way. Only one solution, with water: fresh plywood and new balsa, tar and coal tar, but also bitter almonds and two or three mussels in white wine. Yep. Mouth (neat): peach liqueur, mango liqueur, black pepper, basil, varnish, aniseed, liquorice, acetone. With water: slightly bitter olive oil, likely Spanish, then it unrolls into exotic fruits with salted liquorice. Finish: mango comes back to wave goodbye, which is nice. A hint of rose jelly. Very pretty salinity. Comments: let’s say it plainly, the mango and tar combo is irresistible. But how much is the Club membership? Not like at Turnberry, we hope.
SGP:662 - 90 points. |
One last pour, let’s make it pop… |
|
Clarendon 10 yo 2004/2024 ‘MBS’ (60%, LMDW Foundations, Magnum series #2, Jamaica)
The MBS marque has nothing to do with any Saudi crown prince, this is actually the lightest marque from Clarendon/Monymusk, with likely fewer esters than Glenkinchie, unless the pipes hadn’t been properly cleaned after a previous ‘heavier’ run. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: indeed light, but elegant, you’d almost think it came from Belize or Barbados, with dandelion, natural vanilla, popcorn, nougat, sugarcane juice, and quince jelly… With water: a touch of gently singed hay. Mouth (neat): there are a few esters, even a hint of wood glue, but the rest is soft, fresh, vanilla-driven, very much on almond croissants and those dainty Caffè Armani pâtisseries (best forgotten). With water: all on macarons and amaretti. But of course. Finish: curiously short yet still focused on small almondy pastries. Comments: nothing especially distinctive here, it’s just extremely good.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
So, we need to find another creature, hang on a second… |
|
Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 ‘HTR’ (59.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, Intercaves Limoges)
Caroni is a bit like Port Ellen or Karuizawa ten or fifteen years ago, just when you think they’re gone, there’s more. HTR means ‘Heavy Trinidad Rum’, naturally, and Limoges is home to the most beautiful train station in the world, I assure you. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: well indeed, this one slams down the cocoa, American V8 engine exhaust, lit cigars, tapenade, and plastic model glue. You know the style... With water: even more exhaust fumes and coal tar. Mouth (neat): dry and woody as it gets, but that’s just how we like it. Likely tropical ageing, very politically correct, though it sometimes pushes the oak into heavy-handed territory. Fir wood, dark tobacco, thyme essential oil… On the flip side, the salinity and everything around the varnishy notes add some fine tension and energy to the whole. So far so good. With water: indeed, still good, the salinity takes over and we half expect oysters, mussels, razor clams and even lobsters to come clattering in. Forgot to mention our dear friends green olives and garlic cloves. Finish: very long, classic. Comments: after all these detours, and despite the now ever-present oak, we must admit this remains one hell of a spirit. Just don’t add too much water, even at 60% vol., as it only boosts the already pretty extreme tannicity. Bonkers rum.
SGP:373 - 90 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
|
| |
August 1, 2025 |
|
|
Today, we're setting off around
the world again |
|
| The Chuan, Eimeishan, Sichuan, China (The Chuan) |
There really are an incredible number of new whiskies from all over the world, it's genuinely exciting, even if it's a bit hard to keep up with, one has to admit... We're starting from France, as usual. |
|
Tchankat ‘Classique’ (43%, OB, France, +/-2025)
A whisky from the land of Armagnac, down in Gascony. Mind you, this isn’t malt, rather 80% maize, 10% barley and 10% rye. It’s been matured for three years in re-toasted Saint-Julien casks, so the cabernet influence should remain somewhat restrained. Colour: deep gold. Nose: not half bad, and thankfully it doesn’t reek of cassis or strawberry from fifty yards away, instead we’re more in shortbread and damp stones territory. Even the maize doesn’t seem to be overdoing it on the sweetness front, at least not on the nose. In short, it’s rather likeable. Mouth: nicely done, the French oak brings along a fair share of spices but that actually creates a rather smart style here, re-toasting the casks was clearly a shrewd move. Cherry tart dusted with cinnamon and grey pepper, although the texture is just a tad on the light side. No idea whether they’ve used their Armagnac stills (this is the Samalens house pulling the strings here) but it works a treat. We’re veering more and more towards kirsch and even guignolet. Finish: medium in length, still spicy, with a touch of woodiness persisting. Comments: no doubt about it, this is well crafted and doesn’t go off in all directions. You couldn’t even call it ‘winey’.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
Let’s head to Brittany and Burgundy while we’re at it... |
|
Eddu 'Carnet de Voyages – fûts de Bourgogne’ (46%, OB, France, 650 bottles)
A finishing of buckwheat whisky in Corton Grand Cru casks. That said, we’ve never been able, empirically speaking, to establish a direct organoleptic link between the prestige of a wine and the quality of a whisky finished in its casks. Frankly, between a Corton and a passetoutgrain, you’re unlikely to notice a real difference if the cask quality is comparable. Now admittedly, it rarely is… Colour: gold. Nose: this is distinctly earthy, slightly gamey, a touch madeira-like, with even a faint foxiness that’s not necessarily out of place in this context. The much-anticipated blackcurrants and stewed cherries only make a late appearance. Mouth: we’re well off the beaten path of malt whiskies here, edging closer to certain cask-aged gins in fact, with some quite unexpected citrus notes layered with wild mushrooms. It’s jolly amusing and even rather good, if one is game for an adventure. Finish: long, spicier, again mostly steered by citrus and forest floor. Comments: I’d say this sits more or less in the same league as the previous one.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
|
Tanaka (40%, OB, Vietnam, +/-2025) 
Here we have a rice whisky, produced by a Japanese gentleman in Vietnam. Hooray, it’s our very first Vietnamese whisky! Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s exceedingly light, leaning on vanilla, green tea, herbal infusions, a touch of rock sugar, and a little more vanilla… As it’s all very gentle, it can’t possibly offend – and indeed it doesn’t. Mouth: it’s sweet, light, lacking in texture, with faint hints of roasted hazelnuts, corn syrup, then a few tea-like tannins. Finish: very short. A dash of grey pepper. Comments: it’s likeable enough but I’d say it absolutely calls for ice. Which, of course, we didn’t use.
SGP:320 - 65 points. |
|
The Chuan (40%, OB, China, Pure Malt, +/-2025)
Here’s the general release from this splendid distillery in Sichuan (courtesy of Pernod Ricard), which we had the pleasure of visiting in May. We’d already enjoyed two special editions, and here comes the most widely available version, probably the most approachable too, bottled at a friendly 40% vol. Beware, there’s Chinese mizunara oak inside! Colour: gold. Nose: we’re getting that Far-Eastern Speyside character again, a broadly classic malty structure uplifted by rather ‘Chinese’ notes, such as dried citrus peels (chen-pi), which we’re rather fond of, especially in older versions twenty years and up. There’s also a peculiar fermentary note that instantly recalls the place itself, notably their plum wine. Salted butter toffee ties it all together nicely. Mouth: very smart. The saline, resinous oak brings fir trees to mind, the plum comes back with gusto, as does the toffee, then a well-mannered array of spices joins in. That said, this is miles away from the hyper-spicy Sichuan cuisine style – of which we sampled some quite... remarkable examples, let’s say. As the locals put it, ‘it punches’. This pure malt, however, is much gentler… Finish: back into more classic territory with coffee, chocolate, prunes and richly malty dark beer. The 40% vol. never posed a problem. Comments: one often avoids using the term ‘entry level’, and in this case, that would’ve been a mistake indeed.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
|
Amber Lane 4 yo 2020/2024 (61%, Truth & Consequence, Australia, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #94, 107 bottles)
Naturally, they took home gold at the IWSC. They use a pot still and practise double distillation, so a rather intermittent process, let’s say. Angus tried an Amber Lane a while ago – and quite liked it – but I’ve never had one in my glass, I’m afraid. The distillery is located in New South Wales. Colour: gold. Nose: inevitably a bit hot at this strength, the ethanol is quite forward but nothing out of the ordinary. Wee liqueurs, sugar-coated eggs, sweet African bread… We’ll be needing water. With water: quite a bit of saponification at first, then it settles down and heads towards fresh ginger, after which the whole thing begins to improve steadily. Orange cake, baklavas, various other Levantine pastries… Mouth (neat): a bit eau-de-vie-like at first, with a plum core and citrusy flashes on top. I believe water is essential here, as it so often is (well done, S.) With water: very nice now, chiefly on citrus zest, still with some fresh ginger clinging on. Finish: medium length, pleasant, with plum jam and ginger. Comments: I think this is a proper success, even if the youth is showing.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
|
Hellyers Road 21 yo ‘Peated’ (52.5%, OB, Australia/Tasmania, cask #20FO5c01, 2025)
This one’s a double maturation with four years spent in peated whisky casks. So it’s not a peated distillate per se but do note the second maturation took place in casks that had held peated malt also produced by Hellyers Road. So it’s self-double maturation, if that’s even a term. Colour: pale gold. Nose: just picture this, you’re smoking mango and cassata in peat smoke, then adding grapefruit juice and white Sancerre. Or Australian sauvignon blanc if you prefer. With water: in come the wilder touches, mud, raw wool, bread dough, grist, but the mango and banana still keep the place in order. Mouth (neat): absolutely pure and precise, the smokiness is assertive yet glorious (must’ve been a very heavily peated cask) while a myriad of white and yellow fruits, both grand and humble, frolic in the background. The oak is ever so slightly noticeable. With water: excellent stuff, saline, perfectly poised, with once again the character of a fine white wine. With oysters! Finish: long, on lemon, ashes, smoked fish and focaccia. Comments: nothing particular to add, this is classic Hellyers Road right where we expect it. That said, achieving such a peaty profile from a mere finishing, however extended, shows once again just how dominant, and even invasive, these molecules can be. But that’s just how we like it…
SGP:645 - 90 points. |
Since we’re in the Commonwealth, here’s another one ‘peated by the cask’… |
|
Spirit of Yorkshire 6 yo 2018/2025 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, England, 2nd fill ex-Islay Barrel, 249 bottles)
In other words, this is Filey Bay, which we’ve already sampled several times. We had great fun earlier this year with their rather good ‘Orange Wine Barrique’. Colour: white wine. Nose: clearly, unless you’re a seasoned Filey Bay expert, it’s tricky to determine what comes from the distillate and what from the ex-Islay barrel. In any case, we’re near bread, grist, oil, chalky white soil à la albariza, and even, I kid you not, Alsatian flammekueche (flatbread, fromage blanc, bacon, onions). Hints of paraffin, wet chalk... With water: edging even closer to cereals and ashes. Mouth (neat): precise, peaty, lemony, yeasty. There are, albeit with less depth and complexity of course, certain resemblances to Tasmanian whisky. With water: the whole becomes more integrated, citrus stands out, there’s even a medicinal side (ha-ha!) and, shall we say, a touch more gentleness. It’s very well done. Finish: fruits and a few drops of crème de menthe take over, almost pushing out the Islay peat. Comments: to be honest, we had our doubts, but as we went along and kept adding a little Vittel (Nestlé, we didn’t find the cheque) this lovely composition came together beautifully. No, no politics.
SGP:655 - 88 points. |
Go on then, one last one, let’s head back to the Far East… |
|
Nantou Omar 2015/2024 (53.8%, OB for HNWS, The Antelope & Kanpakai, Taiwan, virgin oak, cask #01180385, 187 bottles)
Just a reminder that these Omars are produced by TTL, a Taiwanese state-owned company. We’ve already tasted some cracking ones and in fact, we’re planning a full ‘Omar’ session soon with a good dozen or so. God willing… Colour: gold. Nose: this is all about barley purity and heavily charred oak, so think croissants, vanilla, banana and the like. In short, it’s simple yet rendered in high-def. With water: fresh herbs emerge, basil, mint, oysterplant, lemongrass, watercress… Mouth (neat): in my humble opinion, Omar leans closer to the Japanese in style when compared to its compatriot Kavalan (which we’re also rather fond of) whose approach is arguably more ‘international’. Anyway, this opens with a lovely, forthright attack, extremely close to yeast and barley, and therefore beer. It follows that same line. With water: notes of ginger, turmeric, ginseng, along with yellow peaches. Finish: fairly long, on herbal infusions, vanilla and fresh oak. Comments: perhaps not ultra-distinctive, but the quality remains very high in my most humble opinion.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
World malt whiskies just keep on improving, I get the feeling fewer and fewer fall into the sub-75-point category these days. Unless it’s the state of the world with its numerous predators that’s making us want to paint everything in a rosier light. |
 |
July 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Old Orkney Malt 25 yo 1999/2025 (50.3%, Decadent Drinks, HHD + sherry butt) - WF 91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Largiemeanoch 20 yo 1974 (50.6%, The Whisky Connoisseur, Arthur J.A. Bell, cask #2087, +/-1995) - WF 93
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Orkney 10 yo 2013 (57%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, sherry hogshead) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Clarendon 29 yo 1995/2025 ‘EMB’ (61.5%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, N°16, 148 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Unnamed Farm Distillery in the Heart of the Kingdom of Fife 2023-2024/2024 (63.4%, James Eadie, Project 1927, spirit drink) - WF 87.5 ;-)
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
A.H. Riise ‘Family Reserve Solera 1838’ (42%, OB, Virgin Islands, +/-2024) - WF 15 |
| |
July 31, 2025 |
|
|
Secret Orkneys and Highland Park
We're not in a position here to confirm with complete certainty that it's the same thing, are we. However, the difference between Scapa and Highland Park isn't all that hard to spot. Let's get into it and let’s start by going to Frankfurt — but not Frankfurt, Kentucky, right?
St Magnus in Kirkwall, Britain's most northerly cathedral (AI slop) |
 |
|
Orkney Single Malt 18 yo 2006/2024 (53.2%, Whisky Spirits for Whisky Time Frankfurt 2025)
With the city of Frankfurt printed upside down on the label! Thankfully, the distillery remains the right way up. Colour: white wine. Nose: unmistakable, with those maritime and mineral tones, followed by tart apples, lemon and olive oil we so adore yet which tend to elude the official expressions. With water: soot and paraffin, then brand new engine oil. Mouth (neat): squarely on the hallowed HPCBBNS axis (HP -> Clynelish -> Benromach -> Ben Nevis -> Springbank). Immensely saline! With water: how utterly delightful! Pure waxes, lemons, green apples and seawater. Finish: more of the same, and for a good while at that. Comments: it starts with a bang.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
|
Orkney 11 yo 2013/2025 (63.6%, Lady of the Glen, 1st fill bourbon, cask #10001, 203 bottles)
They say it’s cask strength, good to know, knowing that unless I’m wrong, HP fill at 63.5% vol., which means we’ve earned some extra-0.1% within eleven years! Colour: white wine. Nose: a fairly similar style, though leaning more towards yellow fruits and pollen, with fewer coastal and mineral elements, but instead we do find some virgin wool. A few touches of vanilla and coconut, almost certainly from the 1st fill bourbon cask. With water: orange peel, or rather mandarin zest. Mouth (neat): straight into acidic fruits, fresh rhubarb, lemon, not-very-ripe gooseberry, then a touch of liquorice and vanilla, though the coconut is nowhere to be found this time. In fact, we shall not complain. With water: veering back towards the classic profile, coastal and mineral. Excellent. Finish: long, with the arrival of green pepper, waxes and hints of indeterminate petroly derivatives. The White House might be able to enlighten us… Comments: performs extremely well following the quite superlative 18-year-old from Frankfurt.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
Update: HP seem to actually fill at some unusual 69.5% vol. (Thanks, Tim) |
|
Orkney (HP) 14 yo 2010/2024 ‘Edition #30’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt)
I dare say the ‘HP’ on the label might stand for more than just ‘high potential’. Colour: amber. Nose: the typical sherry of this series, with roasted nuts and chocolate, hints of truffle, meatball soup, Maggi seasoning, toffee… With water: mushrooms and ferns, but above all lashings of chocolate fudge, even edging towards mole sauce. Mouth (neat): a marked oloroso sherry style, dry yet brimming with orange liqueur, heaps of black pepper and earth, and a few stouty touches. With water: in the same vein but increasingly dominated by old walnuts, while the salty edge becomes more pronounced too. Finish: long, on leek and chicken soup, grated dark chocolate and still plenty of pepper. Comments: very good, even if we've drifted from the cleaner style of the previous ones. A heavily sherried profile inevitably dials back a bit of distillate character.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
|
Secret Orkney 14 yo 2010/2024 ‘Edition #23’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt)
Not quite the same designation here, we've gone from ‘Orkney (HP)’ to ‘Secret Orkney’. Rather mysterious, wouldn’t you say… Colour: gold. Nose: clearly straddling both worlds, the truffle and leek have vanished, replaced by more orange and leather, the whole appearing fresher, fruitier, and unmistakably more ‘HP’. Beeswax and a faint hint of camphor. With water: edging ever closer to the sea, with seaweed and saline manzanilla… Mouth (neat): touches of ginger and turmeric, spiced orange peel… With water: I like this a great deal, it’s lively despite the sherry, nicely taut, all on citrus, pepper and heather honey of course. This feels closer to the officials. Finish: a medicinal turn in the finish, cough syrup laced with black pepper, orange liqueur and honey. A lovely concoction that ought to cure anything. Wax in the aftertaste. Comments: refill really is a splendid thing.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
|
Orkney 10 yo 2013 (57%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, sherry hogshead)
Winter? Oops, looks like we’ve missed sherry monster season. Colour: dark amber. Nose: a cleaner, fruitier kind of sherry, perhaps more on the ‘PX’ side, with Corinth raisins, dried figs, Mars bars, bursts of forest floor (moss, old stumps) and fir honey. We absolutely adore fir honey at WF Towers. With water: pure official style, but official from the 1990s. Gentle smoke, dried fruits, woodland notes, honeys, everything’s in place. Well done! Mouth (neat): fairly rich, caramelised, loaded with three tonnes of raisins and a full lorry of figs and dried dates, plus a few glacé cherries. And yet it never goes ‘too much’, which is near miraculous. The distillate, quietly humming in the background, keeps its saline and mineral frame intact—perhaps that’s why. With water: perfect, saline, smoky, mineral, yet rich and honeyed at the same time. Finish: long, more on black pepper, rich but curiously fresh. We did not say refreshing, mind you. Comments: a smart move, this is pretty flawless—I do hope they won’t mind that I tasted this baby in summer.
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
|
Secret Orkney 17 yo 2004/2022 (53.1%, Whisky-Doris, 20th Anniversary, sherry butt, cask #13, 240 bottles)
We’re a little late to the party, though we’ve already tasted some splendid HPs from Whisky-Doris in the past… And if they celebrated their twentieth in 2022, then they’re the same age as little Whiskyfun! Hurray! Colour: gold. Nose: though it’s a butt again, we’re right back into more traditional HP territory, with both softness and firmness, wax, honeys, baked apples, smoked paprika, crushed pepper… In a nutshell, it’s lovely stuff. With water: a few wafts of walnut skin, spent matches (just the one, fear not) and chocolate. Oddly, the water has brought out more sherry than distillate. Mouth (neat): excellently fruity and taut, smoky, saline, rich yet elegant, characterful, all on candied fruits and all manner of citrus. It’s excellent, I believe we’re in high-score country. With water: leather and tobacco, but all in fine balance. The salinity shines through. Finish: fairly long, elegant, firm and yet rather rich. A sensation of smoked sultanas and seawater in the aftertaste. Beware, it wakes up! Comments: very, very charming and quite fascinating to follow, especially if you practise progressive reduction (not a new neo-eco-Trotskyist political theory, rest assured).
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
|
Old Orkney Malt 25 yo 1999/2025 (50.3%, Decadent Drinks, HHD + sherry butt)
Aged first in refill hogshead then finished in a sherry butt. Decadent Drinks now own the ‘Double O’ or ‘O.O.’ marque, once held by Stromness Distillery and later by Gordon & MacPhail. It’s genuinely part of Scotland’s, and particularly Orkney’s, whisky heritage, so hats off to D.D. for keeping O.O. alive! And who knows, maybe one day they’ll unearth an old cask of Stromness, long forgotten in some derelict warehouse? That could well be the plot of ‘The Angel’s Share 2’, no? Someone ought to mention it to Ken Loach... Colour: deep gold. Nose: rooted in the earth, with last year’s fruits, pipe tobacco, Thai broth, a box of Cuban cigars, and the exhaust of a sports car (so, no Tesla), more mead than honey. With water: leather and bay leaf coming to the fore. Mouth (neat): firmer than expected, roasted and grilled, almost slightly burnt, all on chocolate and lightly salted coffee, with a surprise appearance from prunes in Armagnac. Well, fancy that… With water: back to dry sherry, almost mustardy, and particularly on damp earth, dried meat, black pepper and pine needles. Finish: we’re now in the realm of very old Madeira, Marsala or dry sherries. Comments: it’s not the destination that matters, it’s the journey, and here’s a perfect illustration. That said, I imagine this bottle may divide opinion a little; it’s like free jazz, not everyone’s cup of tea (least of all ‘the neighbours’).
SGP:463 - 91 points. |
NB: The two Signatory bottlings that are heavily sherried might seem slightly below the others at first glance, but that’s not really the case. First, we always tend to favour the cleaner versions, and secondly, these SigVs are offered at much more accessible prices than the others. So hats off to them, they’re excellent HPs! |
| |
July 30, 2025 |
|
|
It’s Highland Park’s turn, back on WF
Careful now, there’ll be no Whitlaw, no Magnus’s Own Stuff, nor any Secret Orkney today, but we will have some soon… For now, let’s see what we’ve got under the proper label, chosen a bit at random for the sake of, shall we say, fun. Still, these Brownian sessions always end up falling into the right order in the end… |
|
|
 |
|
Highland Park ‘The Dolphins 2nd Release’ (40%, OB, 2018)
An expression that’s an officially licensed product for the Royal Navy Submarine Service. At a modest 40% vol., Her/His Majesty’s submariners aren’t exactly at risk of descending into delirium tremens mid-dive. Just jesting of course, though we do know that HP can gracefully handle very low strength and still shine, which isn’t something all malts can claim. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well then, it’s certainly very light, but far from unpleasant, rather it’s quite charming actually, with a whisper of faintly smoked hay and delicate honey, a splash of Bellini (Champagne with peach purée), the faintest demitasse of lapsang souchong, and a satchel of liquorice wood. Lovely nose, just exceedingly gentle, though not without a certain quiet complexity. Right. Mouth: the low strength does let it down somewhat, rather on the dry side, with the lapsang souchong suddenly pushing to the fore. Not quite what we were hoping for. Wee salty touches and a bite of toasted bread. Finish: short, nearly incidental. Comments: I dare say at 46% vol., this might have made quite the splash, but as it stands, it rather dives off into the depths due to a lack of… propulsion. The nose is a hundred times better than the palate, in my most humble opinion.
SGP:452 - 80 points. |
|
Highland Park 21 yo ‘2024 Release’ (46%, OB)
This isn’t yet the new livery, the one that’s supposedly more ‘organic’. Quite the elaborate recipe all the same, as this baby was assembled from, and I quote, ‘48 casks: 25 first-fill, sherry-seasoned American oak quarter casks, 15 refill butts and 8 first-fill, sherry-seasoned European hogsheads, all hand-selected and laid down in 2001 and 2002’. Right then, let’s dive in. Colour: full gold. Nose: straightaway those hallmark notes of polish and honey (they say heather honey, though one’s not entirely certain) which are truly lovely, then we’re onto pecan pie drizzled with maple syrup. Delicate minty glimmers flicker in the background. A very attractive nose, not overly complex but distinctly ‘HP’. Mouth: there is peat here, and a drier profile than on the nose, more along the lines of chocolate, tobacco and black tea, with surprisingly restrained fruit, while the whole shifts steadily towards salted liquorice. Perhaps that’s the Viking edge of HP showing through. Finish: not particularly long but displaying charming notes of walnut cake. The aftertaste holds faint touches of gunpowder and artichoke, plus a whisper of violet sweet. Comments: not monumental, yet it’s still quite beautiful. We shall see whether the next batch veers towards the ‘fruit and honey’ side, presumably under that much-talked-about new label, ‘less Viking and more organic’ (my words).
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
|
Highland Park 2013/2024 (65.5%, OB, Ten Years of the Highland Park Appreciation Society, first fill European oak sherry puncheon, cask #3655, 663 bottles)
At this strength, here’s an HP that could well take our heads off like Thor with his hammer. Yes, one does adjust to brand environments, as you can see… Colour: rich gold. Nose: maple syrup, maple syrup and maple syrup. That’ll be the strength at play. So, with water: the maple syrup remains front and centre, but we’re now joined by all manner of honey cakes, jams (apricot, mirabelle plum), and then, gradually, a growing smokiness, led as ever by its faithful emissary, lapsang souchong tea. Also flint, and a few puffs of brake pad. Mouth (neat): this seems excellent—smoky, candied, salty, smoky again, with some extreme grilled bacon… But we shan’t probe any further without adding water. With water: everything calms down a touch, thankfully. Chestnut jam, and even onion jam, then increasingly more ashes. One does wonder whether these ashes come from heavily charred casks (come on!) or from an especially peaty distillate. Or both, perhaps… Finish: long, rather on tobacco, leather, a hint of spent matches, and some candied orange peel. Comments: a bit of a brute, but we’re very fond of it. Many whisky lovers are ever so slightly masochistic, did you know?
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
Since we’re already taking a bit of a beating... |
|
Highland Park ‘Cask Strength Release No.4’ (64.3%, OB, 2023)
And bang, we’re behind again. In any case, it’s amusing, don’t you find that some brands seem to believe that as long as they’re bottling at very high strength, in the style of ‘farclas 105 back in its glory days, they can merrily abandon age statements? And ‘Robust and Intense’, that’s what the wee label says. No kidding… Colour: gold. Nose: the alcohol is quite prominent, naturally, but it’s much cleaner than the previous one, with far less smoke and rather more on cooked fruits, jams, soft honey, orange marmalade, sweet sherry (perhaps PX) and even a hint of patchouli… With water: it’s clean, ultimately rather easy, well balanced, on raisins, jams and roasted peanuts. Mouth (neat): ah indeed, rustic stuff, clearly very young, malty and blazing hot. Rather like moonshiner’s eau-de-vie from some forgotten valley where the state never sets foot ‘because they’ve neither the time nor the budget’. With water: quite nice! Sweet roots, spices, various honeys, and a gentle saline smokiness pushing through… Finish: lemon jam splashed with just a trace of pine liqueur takes the helm. The aftertaste stays faintly smoky and salty. Comments: we found batch #3 a bit middling (WF 83) but this #4 is clearly an improvement.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Let’s move on to the indies, their casks are generally a bit cleaner… |
|
Highland Park 19 yo 2004/2024 (54.7%, Duncan Taylor, Single Cask Collection, sherry cask, cask #50171094, 311 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s more mineral, more on chalk and crushed limestone, but also fresh bread, raisin rolls, brioche with sultanas… It feels almost like a more old-school HP than the recent OBs we’ve just tried. With water: chalk and clay marls after a summer thunderstorm (what?) then a fresh baguette at six in the morning. Mouth (neat): much tauter and more nervous than the OB C/S #4, lemony, on pink grapefruit, sharp riesling, lime, and ginger tonic… We’re huge fans of all that, let’s not pretend otherwise. With water: perfect—fresh yet full-bodied, with a very discreet and wonderfully elegant sherry, giving full expression to a distillate firmly driven by citrus. We’ve said it before, citrus—and honey—will save the world. Finish: long, flawless, precise, not a single off-note, and heading straight towards that most conclusive of flavours: beeswax. Comments: this is surprisingly excellent, though I’m not surprised. I know exactly what I mean. A magnificent cask, provided you let it breathe and find just the right amount of water.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
|
Highland Park 2015/2024 (58.3%, Swell de Spirits, Pop’ Series, for Inter Caves France, first fill tawny porto butt, cask #560, 424 bottles)
Careful now, this is full maturation in a port cask, not just a cheap two-month finishing job (in French, ‘porto’ means ‘Port’). Colour: gold. Nose: I regret to inform you that the nose is magnificent, one even wonders whether this might have been an old white port cask from Niepoort or other good ones (S., they say tawny, t.a.w.n.y.) . Wild mirabelles and bergamots, then clover honey. With water: out come mineral elements, flint, crushed slate, and then bread dough. Mouth (neat): classic young HP, with all the usual attributes, citrusy and mineral tension, various honeys, peach skins, apple and pear peel, and then a burst of grey pepper suddenly taking charge… With water: everything falls into place, fine peat, citrus, precise honeys, soft spices, raisins… In fact, the gentler side of the port is now beginning to make itself known. Finish: as is often the case, it’s the dry notes (leather and tobacco) that bring balance and prevent it veering too far into jammy territory. Not that we have anything against jam. Comments: a round of hearty applause. Not even ten years old, mind you!
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
|
Highland Park 10 yo 2014/2024 (51.5%, The House of McCallum, Auld Alliance, bourbon and Margaux, cask #279, 343 bottles)
We assume this underwent a finishing in a Margaux cask, so red Bordeaux. There are indeed white Margaux wines, but they’re exceedingly rare and as yet not granted the Margaux blanc designation. That said, Médoc blanc is reportedly in the works… Colour: pale gold. Nose: no blackcurrant, no cherry, the Margaux keeps its distance, save for a few tell-tale green pepper notes typical of cabernet. The rest is quite attractive, with orange liqueur and those ‘mineral maritime citrus fruits’. A dash of barley syrup. With water: it turns more coastal and even medicinal. A faint touch of iodine tincture and a couple of small oysters. Mouth (neat): once again, the wine remains discreet, though there is some blood orange. Fruity brioche, panettone, marmalade, a few salty and earthy touches, and liquorice. With water: fresher, more lemony, and more saline. Finish: long and refreshing, with bitter almond notes. Tiny drops of seawater in the aftertaste. Comments: we went looking for the Margaux, but truth be told, it was well hidden. That may not be such a bad thing.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
|
Highland Park 18 yo (57.1%, Dràm Mor, 5th birthday release, refill hogshead, cask #3535, 292 bottles)
Is it pure affectation that they’ve chosen not to mention the vintage? We imagine so, and we rather like that. Colour: white wine. Nose: a lovely idea to draw from casks quite different to the usual official house style, here we’ve got a profile that’s very fresh, vertical, maritime, on sourdough bread, seaweed, grist, ground almonds, and cooked whelks… How delightful. With water: ink appears, along with a pile of books and magazines, then baker’s yeast. Someone really ought to establish an aroma conservatory, because at the rate things are going, soon everything will smell like plastic, cocaine and gunpowder (come on!) Mouth (neat): firm, powerful, candied, citric, salty, peaty, compact. Will that do? With water: as excellent as it gets, salty, fresh, maritime, like a plate of smoked cockles drizzled with lemon juice. Finish: fairly long, still fresh and saline. A truly coastal HP, splendidly austere into the bargain. Comments: who could possibly object to this style, which catapults you straight to the edge of the North Sea?
SGP:563 - 88 points. |
I think one last wee dram will do for today… |
|
Highland Park 18 yo 2006/2024 (59.2%, C. Dully Selection, bourbon hogshead, cask #3571, 232 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the magic of true refill, close to the distillate, which makes perfect sense when you’re dealing with a superb make like HP. Top 5 material, without question. That said, it’s a discreet, sensitive nose—summer rain, foliage, I almost want to say cucumber—the very definition of aromatic understatement. A porcini carpaccio like the one I had at L’Ambroisie in Paris, one of my greatest gastronomic memories. But I digress. With water: fresh plaster, a rain-dampened wool jumper, and small cider apples. Mouth (neat): this time we’re close to newmake—you almost feel like there’s been little or no maturation over these 18 years. Unusual and utterly charming! But careful—it’s still 59.2% vol. Yup. With water: beautifully balanced, apple, pear, barley, green melon, faint ashes… Finish: fairly long, more on herbs. Artisanal kirsch in the aftertaste, and the finest kirsch belong among the greatest spirits on Earth! Comments: full of charm, but it’s an austere sort of charm, unadorned, natural, probably not one for ‘the neighbours’.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
Heads up, the ‘Secret Orkneys’ are coming soon, and I can tell you there are some real beasts among them. Stay tuned. |
| |
July 29, 2025 |
|
|
A wee duo, or perhaps is it a trio of Daftmill
There’s this fantastic ‘Project 1927’ by James Eadie, which brings together six newmakes from some rather avant-garde young Scottish distilleries. Despite their modernity, all of them were keen to experiment with production techniques from the 1920s—yeasts, fermentation methods, and so on. Proof, if ever it were needed, that tradition can be forward-thinking, don’t you think?
Among these six distilleries is an ‘Unnamed Farm Distillery in the Heart of the Kingdom of Fife’, whose newmake we’ll be tasting today. And to round off the session in a way that’s perhaps a little coherent, we’ll also have two Daftmills. |
 |
|
Unnamed Farm Distillery in the Heart of the Kingdom of Fife 2023-2024/2024 (63.4%, James Eadie, Project 1927, spirit drink)
This one was distilled from homegrown Golden Promise barley, floor-malted on site and fermented for approx. 100 hours using brewer’s yeast. Colour: white. Nose: explosive indeed, far more estery than anticipated, with an immediate slap of green olive (a somewhat rare creature in the Kingdom of Fife) and copper polish. The intensely fermentary aspect is, of course, well to the fore as well, bringing thoughts of sourdough bread, but care must be taken as this is seriously potent stuff that could in no time incinerate our nostrils. With water: now we enter the world of small fruits, all either in the process of fermentation or recently caught in the act. Cherries, plums, raspberries, little berries of indeterminate origin, and even a glimmer of shochu. Mouth (neat): with due caution, pear eau-de-vie comes as no surprise, nor does the limoncello, but the damp earthiness, salty flashes and fresh woodland mushrooms are rather unexpected in a newmake. With water: this calls to mind wild cherry eau-de-vie as produced by the finest Alsatian distillers, such as Marcel Windholtz in Ribeauvillé. Which is to say, ‘they could bottle this as is’. Finish: long, now properly salty, though there can’t be a gram of actual sodium in the dram. Clearly, it’s a question of certain papillae being activated, presumably by ions or some such, but we’ll admit the chemistry of the palate is not quite our domain. Comments: yes, they could absolutely bottle this and I’m certain it would make smashing martinis. We shall test that theory forthwith this very evening.
SGP:662 - between 85 and 90 points (we don’t really score newmakes, after all). |
|
Daftmill 2009/2025 (55%, OB for Aquavitae, bourbon cask, casks #03+055/2009, 362 bottles)
This is a ‘double single cask’, you understand. Oh, and he-ha, the Daftmill label does indeed specify that they are located ‘in the Heart of the Kingdom of Fife’, which surely cannot be mere coincidence. That said, several new distilleries now reside within the Kingdom of Fife but let us move on… Colour: pale gold. Nose: typically very taut, mineral, and uncompromisingly herbaceous, as though it had been infused with grapefruit peel, which suits us marvellously as we’re rather partial to such aromas. There’s also woodruff, lashings of it, along with a little lemon verbena. With water: virtually unchanged, save for the appearance of slate and chalk, both delightfully pulverised. Mouth (neat): splendidly pure and textural for an ex-bourbon, all vanilla, lemon, and exceedingly lively wee herbs, with the soaring elegance of the driest white wines. One might even say it’s ‘Sauvignoning’. With water: it takes a turn for the rootier, now evoking sweet gentian, celery stalk… Always a happy place in my book. Finish: long, pure, indefatigable yet never fatiguing (if that makes sense). A rather startling umami quality right at the end. Comments: it borders more on watchmaking than mere distilling, so precise it is.
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
|
Daftmill 2011/2024 (56.3%, OB for the Milano Whisky Festival, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #094-98-99/2011, 615 bottles)
There’s also a first fill oloroso version from an earlier Milan festival, but let’s stay focused on the bourbon today… Colour: white wine. Nose: naturally it’s very close, though this one’s a tad cleaner, a touch fruitier, but everything else is near-identical. Let’s say we’ve moved from Sancerre’s Sauvignon to Chablis’ Chardonnay. With water: ah, a few faint petroly notes, but we soon return to a far more civilised lemon custard. Mouth (neat): rather fatty, even oily, with limoncello making a triumphant comeback (Italy, of course), along with a proper chalkiness. And it’s just so good, it’s frankly getting a little embarrassing. With water: touches of pine liqueur, orange blossom and a pinch of paprika, all layered over the classic chalk-vanilla-lemon-fresh bread combo. Finish: lovely, pure, and downright moreish. Another bottle that really ought to come with a warning label. Comments: absolutely superb, albeit with just a fraction less of the previous one’s surgical precision. Still flying very high indeed.
SGP: 661 - 89 points. |
In any case, here’s hoping Daftmill has laid down a bit of that ‘James Eadie-style’ newmake for ageing! As freshwater anglers like to say, good things come to those who wait. We simply can’t wait… |
(Merci, Martin and thanks to The Whisky Lodge) |
Previous entries
(archived)
|
|
| |
|
|
