| |
| |
October 21, 2025 |
|
  |
Ten Blair Athol at full gallop
Blair Athol is much more than just the last petrol station (so to speak) before Edradour, there have already been a fair few truly historic bottles. |
|
 |
And if you've never tried an old 8-year-old with the black label from the Arthur Bell era, do so as soon as you can; they still come up at auction now and then. Let’s not forget that Blair Athol was, for a brief time, part of the famous Classic Malts of Scotland… granted, it was very short-lived. Right then, let’s go about things a bit randomly today, but we’ll try to keep a certain logic to it... |
|
Blair Athol 12 yo (80°proof, OB, Pure Malt, +/-1975) 
This isn’t the black label one, rather the blue label that came just after. There was also a crimson-labelled Dufftown in the same vein. Colour: white wine. Nose: full-on barley with a dash of engine oil and paraffin for good measure. One almost feels transported to a field just as the combine harvester has rumbled through, its engine not exactly purring, mind you. It’s utterly charming. Mouth: similar impressions carry through, though we’re now veering into overripe apple territory, beyond the barley syrup and a whisper of lightly sweetened tea. Immensely malty, quite beer-like on the whole, not tremendously complex, and certainly without the dazzling fruitiness found in 1960s vintages. Still, rather good. Finish: medium in length, on apples and malt. Comments: this is very, very pleasant indeed, though all told just a tad on the simple side—think… Bell’s.
SGP:541 - 83 points. |
Speaking of bottlings from the 1960s, let’s move from theory to practice... |
|
Blair Athol 8 yo (80° proof, OB, Highland Malt, UK market, early 1960s) 
Colour: gold. Nose: nothing much to do with the 12-year-old, this is far oilier and more phenolic, with hints of smoke, greasiness, earth and wax, along with floor polish and paraffin, and some rather surprising notes of fresh mango to round things off beautifully. A stunning nose. Mouth: superb, citrus takes the lead from the outset, soon giving way to a mad gallop of earthy and oily flavours—olive oil, sesame, a touch of metal polish and boot wax, and a splash of old-school cough syrup with a serious alcohol kick (the sort that had you back on your feet in no time). And then, the mangos return, though in rather more discreet quantity. Finish: fairly long, just a hint metallic and faintly peaty, yet gloriously waxy and citrusy to the last. Comments: sheer beauty! Between us, I might well have guessed an old young Springbank had I tasted it blind.
SGP:562 - 92 points. |
Right, that’s enough of the old relics... |
|
Blair Athol 15 yo 2009/2025 (46%, Royal Mile Whiskies, small batch, French oak, 633 bottles) 
Careful now, French oak often means wine casks, let’s see… Colour: ripe apricot. Bingo. Nose: there’s definite wine influence here, with strawberry-raspberry jam, even a touch of wild strawberry liqueur, blood orange, and a good deal of rosehip tisane. The malty, slightly waxy backbone holds it together rather well, let’s be honest. Mouth: no doubt about it, winesky territory, and one could easily picture this in a spritz atop a mountain of ice cubes by the poolside at forty degrees in the shade. Prosecco already included, how convenient. Joking aside, it’s actually rather nice. Finish: long, fairly soft, with a touch of grey pepper and some red berries keeping it lively. Comments: malt whisky 3.0. Let’s not be stick-in-the-mud traditionalists, this is very nicely done.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
|
Blair Athol 12 yo 2013/2025 (51.6%, Tri Carragh, 1st fill Port barrique, 174 bottles)
The reracking (quite right) took place in 2024. One might expect another red fruit explosion… Colour: gold. Nose: far less vinous than the previous one, though that may well be down to the higher strength, let’s not leap to conclusions, even if the hue is indeed less ruby-ish. Raisin buns, honey... With water: even more raisin rolls and honey. And let’s face it, raisin rolls are one of civilisation’s finer creations (aren’t they?) Mouth (neat): lovely! Caramel, fudge, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, candied cherries... The caramel stands out particularly and leans rather heavily towards crème brûlée. With water: perhaps just a touch more grapey now, with hints of stalkiness not usually found in Port, though maybe best not to add water here. Finish: medium length, more charming without dilution. Comments: water swept away the raisin rolls. Still, no matter, this remains an excellent Blair Athol.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
|
Blair Athol 16 yo 2007/2024 (55.1%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, oloroso sherry)
Gorgeous label, let’s hope we find those mushrooms on the nose… though too much mushroom in a wine or spirit can tip into flaw territory. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: quite a bit of red fruit for an oloroso, and there’s clearly some PXness in the mix too. That said, it all comes together rather perfectly, classic, rounded, fruity, full of figs, walnut wine, and ta-dah, Mars bars. Certainly not a particularly dry oloroso. With water: marzipan soaked in kirsch. We do love that, brings out our Teutonic side. Mouth (neat): surprisingly jammy for an oloroso, more reminiscent of cream sherry in fact, especially as the sherry impact is utterly massive here. But that jamminess is lovely, bolstered by a good dose of pepper. With water: again with the almond paste and cherry liqueur, plus that distinct ‘cream’ character. You might call it oloroso dulce, but there’s a hint of Guinness in there as well... Finish: long, a touch less polished, more rustic in style. Comments: I feel this oloroso was slightly searching for itself, but all in, it’s still a thoroughly excellent maltsherry.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
|
Blair Athol 13 yo 2009/2023 (51.7%, Whisky Picnic Bar and T.S.M.C., hogshead, 282 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: back to base camp, barley, sunflower oil, soft vanilla and very ripe apples. You’ve no idea how much joy this sort of thing brings. With water: all clean lines, chalk, grist, oils, cider... Mouth (neat): magnificent, with bitter almonds, Seville oranges, pine honey, green tea… glory be to natural hogsheads! With water: even better, now with touches of mint and a dash of absinthe. Finish: fairly long, rather refreshing, and that’s precisely the danger with this kind of malt. They really ought to slap on a label reading “not to be used to quench thirst”. Comments: truth be told, it’s probably not the most complex malt whisky out there, but the balance and authenticity are simply spot-on.
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
|
Blair Athol 12 yo 2009/2021 (58%, Timeless & Tasty, Whiskies & More 7th Anniversary, bourbon hogshead) 
‘The label showcases the vibrancy and charisma of Hong Kong’s women’, or so it claims. Colour: pale white wine—hurrah. Nose: we’re even closer to the distillate now and having sampled the new make on-site in Pitlochry myself, I can vouch for it. Fresh brioche, biscuits, panettone, caramel fudge, oatcakes and just a wisp of the gentlest honey, think acacia. With water: a little more pear now, a sure sign of youth. And remember, youth is the future (how smart, S.). Mouth (neat): magnificent young malt, very fresh, very fruity—apples, pears, lemons and plums—with an even higher danger coefficient than the previous dram. With water: but this is glorious! Honeyed cider with a touch of vanilla and a few drops of Californian IPA, something like old-school Lagunitas from fifteen years ago. Finish: fairly long, with splendid bitterness. Comments: this whisky was clearly chosen by an aesthete. I’ve no idea who that was, but they deserve the platinum medal of Whiskyfun—if such a thing existed, of course.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
|
Blair Athol 11 yo 2014/2025 (59.2%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, for LMDW, hogshead, cask #308672, 277 bottles)
This one's really brand new. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is amusing, there’s a very Germanic currywurst note to start with, laced with floral touches of lily, hibiscus and jasmine… What on earth? With water: back to cakes, barley, limestone and sourdough. Mouth (neat): compact and efficient, sweet and spicy, almost like an entire tin of Basler Läckerli. And if you don’t know Basler Läckerli, that’s your problem, not mine (S., please!...) With water: the water blows open the exotic fruit, banana, plantain, and a beautifully soft ginger. Finish: rather long, honeyed, coated, sweet but indeed quite spicy too, with plenty of ginger and even a dusting of dried porcini powder, Italian-style. Comments: a young, rich, marvellously syrupy version, highly recommended.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
... how about we taste a very old Blair Athol?... |
|
Blair Athol 38 yo 1986/2025 (51.5%, One8Nine, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #20078, 122 bottles)
It doesn’t seem I’ve ever come across such an old Blair Athol before, have you? The price strikes me as very reasonable, what's more... That said, one always feels a degree of trepidation before approaching such an old malt, has it weathered the years with dignity? Let’s find out promptly... Colour: mahogany. Nose: exactly what we'd been hoping for, extremely old umeshu mingling with a medley of ancient waxes, antique books, prunes and tamarinds, cigars, hoisin sauce, lovage, chestnut honey and... some venerable armagnac and very old agricole rum. Never has the old adage—that all the world’s ancient spirits eventually converge—rung truer. Splendid. With water: old wood dust and crumbled masonry, then dazzling echoes of jamon iberico—say, 9,582,437 belottas, if that were a valid rating. Mouth (neat): a rather surprising profile on the palate, opening on propolis by the ladleful, then pine resin, pepper, bitter orange, and above all, black truffle. Mind you, we are not speaking of sulphur here, this is pure black truffle. With water: the addition brings out oaky and fir honeydews. Finish: long, with the arrival of mint chocolate, as fashioned by a proper artisan chocolatier in Perthshire—or anywhere, really. Tamarind jam, black propolis and fir resin seal the whole affair. Comments: this is not one of those old malts trying to appear young like a fading Hollywood actress attempting a comeback—on the contrary, it wears its years proudly, and that is precisely what gives it its towering charm.
SGP:581 - 93 points. |
I think we need one last very young BA to cleanse the palate before moving on to other topics on WF… Well, you know what I mean. |
|
Blair Athol 9 yo 2014/2024 '100 proof Edition #9' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill oloroso butt)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: it gives precisely the impression that, had this whisky aged on to the venerable age of 38, it might’ve ended up alarmingly close to that sublime 1986 we’ve just tasted. Do with that what you will... With water: stout, toffee, and chocolate fudge galore. At the end of the day, it’s still a young malt. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent in its earthy, resinous profile. Bitter orange lifts everything nicely and, believe it or not, almost makes it feel fresh. With water: much the same again, just maltier and a touch softer. Barely. Finish: long and even more chocolate-forward, with just the faintest dusting of pepper. Comments: a lovely bottle, you simply have to like chocolate. Perhaps a slice of chocolate cake, then…
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
Right, ten is enough. There’ll be more Blair Athol soon, but for now, we’re officially calling it a day. I’ll just add that it’s a real shame the vast majority of available BAs are independents, with official bottlings practically non-existent, Òunless you count the very old releases from the ’60s and ’70s. That’s over 50 years ago, after all... You’re quite right, and then there’s the Flora & Fauna version... |
| |
October 20, 2025 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today indie Royal Brackla
We want more natural Brackla! Even if the base malt doesn’t exactly burst with personality, despite its inherent royalty… That said, as usual, if you really want to get closer to the distillate, you’ve got to turn to the (good) indies. It’s a mad world. |
|
Royal Brackla 13 yo 2011/2024 (48.5%, Thompson Bros., refill butt, 727 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: oily nose, on peanut oil, sesame oil, then hay and salted butter caramel. And really, who could object to any of that? Mouth: a full transposition of the nose onto the palate, though a little rougher, more rustic. Almond croissant, hay wine, white pepper, coriander seed, Dutch genever... Finish: long, drier still, even more on the genever. Comments: absolutely lovely, far from a ‘standard’ Scottish malt, much closer to a northern European genever. In short, it’s intriguing, exactly what one also hopes for from an independent bottler, actually.
SGP:361 - 87 points. |
|
Royal Brackla 11 yo 2013/2024 (53.6%, Fable Whisky, Hesperus, hogshead, cask 301779, 314 bottles)
These labels remain absolutely sublime, and I mean it. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a bit like the same whisky, only more austere, more Jansenist, but also more herbal—fennel, dill... With water: back to beer, wash, bread dough... Mouth (neat): same profile as the admirable Thompson Bros. edition. Pepper, bitter almond, juniper, coriander, candied lemon... With water: a little less oomph now, makes one wonder whether the water was really needed. It turns slightly drying but still remains very excellent. Finish: rather long, wilder, more peppery, though ultimately more honeyed. Comments: very, very good, just a touch more unruly.
SGP:451 - 86 points. |
| |
October 19, 2025 |
|
|
Cognac is back with some knack
(Wonders from 1994 to 1939)
Aren't our headlines always absolutely brilliant — I honestly don’t know how we’ve not won an international award for them yet. Right then, let’s kick off with one of our now-traditional aperitifs… |
 |
|
Otard *** Spécial (40%, OB, +/-1960)
Straight from the Château de Cognac where, according to what the label tells us, King François 1er was born in 1494. Colour: deep gold. Nose: classic indeed, with a rather pronounced and wholly positive OBE, and I rather doubt this nose was quite so lovely at birth, given that it’s merely a modest ***. A delightful combination of sultanas, peach syrup, linden honey and orange blossom, with not the faintest fault to report. One wonders whether some older Cognacs found their way into the vatting, perhaps due to a ‘cognac lake/lac’, the French equivalent of the ‘whisky loch’ in Scotland. But let’s not get carried away with conjecture... Mouth: ah but this really is very good, fairly rich yet ever fresh, jammy but without excess, with plenty of figs and peaches at first, then moving towards honey and thyme infusion. A trace of salted liquorice, quite an original twist in this context. Finish: fairly long and still rather lovely, with a discreet toastiness of the most respectable kind. Comments: doubtless some very fine crus nestled in this little Otard from some 65 years ago. One to keep an eye on at auction, I should think...
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
Now let’s shine a spotlight on three star-producers, vertically, from 1994 down to 1939… In no particular order: Grosperrin, J-L Pasquet, Vallein Tercinier. |
|
Vallein Tercinier 'Lot 94' (48.1%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Fins Bois, 90 bottles, 2025)
A Fins Bois own-estate from Vallein Tercinier... Colour: full gold. Nose: one of those bottles with but a single flaw, that being how utterly predictable they are when it comes to quality. Here we have damp earth and forest floor à la old white Burgundy, followed by aged wood in the cedar or even sandalwood register, then a neat array of dried fruits and preserved ones, all wrapped in mentholated touches and wisps of incense. Simply irresistible, by thunder! Mouth: firmer than expected, starting out on mint leaves and a little fir resin, then camphor and even a hint of Tiger Balm, quite the surprise, before bringing in liquorice wood, gentian, and eventually some restrained dried fruits. This firmer side makes it rather splendidly ‘malternative’, if I may say so. Finish: long, turning towards a combination of walnut and crème de menthe. Comments: more robust and less fruity than the older Cognacs from the house, but perhaps all the more quintessentially ‘Fins Bois’. The fact is, we adore this as well.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
|
Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 86' (45.3%, OB, Kirsch Import Awakening Series, Grande Champagne, 2025)
A new bottling unveiled at Whisky Live Hamburg just last weekend. Colour: gold. Nose: at first nosing, it’s far fruitier than the 1994, though no less structured, especially once a rather earthy liquorice note begins to make itself known, with, believe it or not, wee touches of pale ale and even a faint smokiness. I swear it. As for the fruits, we find the usual peaches and melons, then a little orange, but all in rather discreet fashion. Mouth: I promise you there’s a bit of brown ale, along with currants, dried figs and dates, a faint charcoal note, then quite a bit of green tea, lending it a slightly dry and rustic edge. Finish: fairly long, even drier, on tea and tobacco. Citrus notes linger in the aftertaste. Comments: lovely bitter tones in this utterly charming Cognac that feels ever so slightly pastoral.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
|
Vallein Tercinier 'Lot 78' (48.4%, OB, Kirsch Import Awakening Series, Grande Champagne, 2025)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s almost pure orange blossom honey to begin with, then come a few soft spices—cinnamon, liquorice, star anise—followed by ripe rather than dried fruits, with mellow apples, nectarines, and even hints of rose-infused banana compote. Well, I’m not entirely sure such a thing exists, but I find this nose rather dazzling. Mouth: a slight touch of old Calvados at first (those mellow apples again) and some tobacco notes, then a little flurry of herbs—aniseed, mint, even lovage—before the citrus elements come marching in. A light touch of green tea as well. Finish: long, mostly on honey and citrus, with additional notes of liquorice and mint. Comments: what would you have me say...
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
|
Grosperrin 'N°67' (40.6%, OB, Héritage, Petite Champagne, 2025)
1967—Hendrix, the Yardbirds, the Doors, Cream, Engelbert Humperdinck... Well, perhaps not Engelbert Humperdinck. Colour: deep gold. Nose: Maître Guilhem at what seems to be his finest. Granted, he didn’t distil this one himself, but he selected it—and in this context, that’s nearly the same thing. A devilishly fruity affair, with all manner of herbal infusions, and above all, a clarity and expressiveness one wouldn’t quite expect at just over 40% vol. That said, it does seem Cognac handles lower strengths far better than malt whisky. Figs and honeys in an infernal tango. Mouth: not a hint of tiredness, rather a medley of various oranges, prickly pear and pomegranate. Admittedly, there’s the faintest nose-diving after a good fifteen seconds on the palate, but a gorgeous Assam-style tea steps in without missing a beat. Finish: not eternal, of course, but possessed of rare elegance. The honeys are sublime. Comments: kindly disregard all that business about Engelbert Humperdinck. Think Menuhin instead.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
|
Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 63' (45.6%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Grande Champagne, 90 bottles, 2025)
Colour: full gold. Nose: drier and more on the woody side, though in a register reminiscent of a well-stocked humidor and sandalwood, then we drift into fruit skins—apricots, pears, peaches—plus touches of vanilla, honeysuckle, acacia blossom, linden, sweet woodruff, and even the faintest hint of lily of the valley. All this with great finesse, even a touch of discretion, which is absolutely not a flaw, quite the opposite, especially in today’s world (not the most helpful comment, S.) Mouth: a rather unexpected liveliness, almost lemony, with passion fruit and then pear sorbet, all wrapped up in soft liquorice and a trace of wild carrot. Truth be told, it’s pristine and quite stunning. The lemon–liquorice duo works far better than one might have imagined. Finish: it doesn’t budge an inch and remains on those deliciously fresh and taut notes for a good fifteen caudalies. At the very least. Comments: just as the nose was discreet and well-mannered, the palate is fresh, energetic, and just a little bit cheeky. We love it.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
To wrap things up, I’ve got an intriguing duo for you: a 1939 and a 1945. We could’ve saved them to mark some WWII anniversary or other, but hey, this is Whiskyfun, capeesh? |
|
Grosperrin 'N°45' (52.2%, OB, Héritage, Fins Bois, 166 litres, 2025)
The vintage of victory and peace, of course, even if officially this isn’t a vintage Cognac. The bottling strength is particularly high for something this old, so one would imagine it was transferred into demijohns fairly early. Or perhaps it was aged entirely in a dry cellar. Colour: copper amber. Nose: far richer than most of its predecessors, more honeyed, with more raisins, dates, dried pears, and even a faint touch of molasses. What one might call a proper ‘old-school’ Cognac, with perhaps a bit of ‘seasoning’ during cask preparation, eighty or seventy-nine years ago. Or not. With water: some mint and herbal teas make an appearance, along with a peach skin touch. Mouth (neat): oh! Almost simple, which, again, is by no means a flaw here—quite the opposite—with notes of honey, triple sec, maple syrup and a little instant coffee. Old-school indeed. With water: it opens like an oyster once water is added, branching out into marmalade citrus, even more honey and maple syrup. A bit of peanut butter as well, would you believe. Finish: long, more classic, more graceful too, and in any case, the freshness in this V-Cognac is absolutely remarkable. Light tobacco and wood in the aftertaste. Comments: when compared with what’s happening in malt these days, even including the very old ones, it’s hard to see how this could be rated at anything less than...
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
Let’s leap over the Second World War to bring this decidedly superlative little session to a close… |
|
Grosperrin 'N°39' (45.5%, OB, Héritage, Grande Champagne, 118 litres, 2025)
One always learns something interesting from Grosperrin’s labels. In this case, that a donkey entered the cellar during the removal of the cask from the estate at Salles-d’Angles. Though one suspects it may have rather been the Wehrmacht that did something similar when this lot may have been first filled, in spring of 1940. You should remember that in Cognac, the vintage refers to the year of the harvest, while distillation must be done before March 31 the year after. But not sure these rules did apply back in 1940. Colour: golden amber. Nose: dazzling freshness, precision and fruitiness, with a surprisingly mineral edge—wet chalk, slate—alongside honey, peaches, and, would you believe, traces of old malt whisky. Also a little salted butter caramel, as in a very old Sauternes that’s finally digested its sugars. Once again, there’s even a bit of peanut butter this time again, though we’re well aware that’s a rather vulgar descriptor. Still, we truly adore proper, unadulterated peanut butter. Mouth: let us dispense with the wood notes straightaway, here personified by a touch of English tea, and focus on this extraordinary pear and banana ganache profile. Also some mango, fir honey, and still that salted butter caramel. Finish: at this point it gets just a touch tea-ish and perhaps doesn’t quite hold its ground against the 1945, which we find a notch above, but it remains an utter delight. Surprising apple notes in the aftertaste. Comments: still very much up there, of course, just slightly less elevated than the splendid 1945. I mean, the N°45.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
Well, what a session, truly, what a session! You’ll say that with a line-up of JG, JLP, and VT, things were bound to be on the right track anyway. Sharp observation — bravo! |
| |
October 18, 2025 |
|
|
|
Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
A Brace of Bladnoch
I don't taste Bladnoch too often, and I have to admit I am not really at all familiar with the output of the (relatively) new owners. That being said, I am a fan and I love the older ones. We'll have one of each today and see how we go... |
 |
|
|
 |
Bladnoch 23 yo 2001/2024 (49.2%, OB for Hedonism Wines, Amontillado sherry cask, 317 bottles) 
Colour: amber. Nose: a nicely autumnal sense of soft dark fruits, plums, old armagnac and touches of caramelised brown sugar, rolling tobacco and suggestions of earthy potting sheds. An upfront impression of sweetness that doesn't suggest Amontillado to me, but then these elegant earthier and drier aspects begin to slowly take control - which is very charming. Mouth: a tad spicier and more vinous than expected on arrival, with rather a lot of cupboard and mulling spice qualities, all spice, clove etc. Then some bitter herbal notes alongside these sweeter qualities that suggest Buckfast and Jägermeister (what a combo that would be: BuckBomb anyone?). Goes on with some big notes of Cointreau, rancio, plum wine and sweetish orange marmalade notes. The spiciness hovers on the precipice of slightly too much, but never altogether goes there. Finish: quite long, warming, the spice recedes to an easy peppery warmth, bitter orange marmalade now and some vielle prune. Comments: a little out of step with itself at times, and featuring some rather funny sweet and spicy qualities that feel like they've come from the wood, but in the end it lands firmly in the 'charismatic and good' category.
SGP: 551 - 87 points. |
|
|
 |
Bladnoch 33 yo 1988/2022 (54.1%, Gordon & MacPhail 'Connoisseur's Choice' for Kensington Wine Market, cask #2107, refill sherry hogshead, 53 bottles) 
Next time I go to Canada, KWM is top of my hit list in terms of places to visit... Colour: white wine. Nose: wonderful, and very different from the more common 1990s, this is much more about waxes, citrons, sandalwood, mineral notes, cooking oils, hessian cloth and dried herbal notes. Extremely old school and almost displaying notes you might associate with positive old bottle effect, with these slightly dusty and old dried herbal notes. With water: tiger balm, shoe leather, face cream, papaya - some beautiful old dry Riesling vibes too. Mouth: amazing fruit profile upon arrival, so different, showing lots of lychees, rosewater, kiwi, star fruit, dried mango and passion fruit. Stunning and complex fruit profile that really is a departure from the norm. Also greener notes of gooseberry and cider apple that supply ample freshness and even an impression of acidity. Beyond that also these superb waxes and crystalised honey notes. With water: further impressions of old bottle vibes, mature dry white wines, camphor, putty, linseed oil, dried flowers full of pollen and a hint of dried lavender and more sandalwood. Finish: medium, sappy, peppery, waxy and back on green and yellow fruit notes. Comments: was there really only 53 bottles in this cask, maybe that explains this highly concentrated and complex profile: a lot of air! I love how this feels ever so Bladnoch, while also being distinct from most of the other casks from these late 80s / early 90s vintages I could try. Great selection!
SGP: 551 - 91 points. |
|
|
| |
October 17, 2025 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today Glen Ord
There's this new official Special Release, and there is one by Signatory. In other words, a proper fight... |
|
The Singleton of Glen Ord 17 yo 'Into the Blue' (55.5%, OB, Special Releases 2025, second fill ex-sherry and mezcal finish)
Into the blue? In any case, agave spirits do seem to be making their mark on Diageo's malts, and one can’t say it’s a daft idea given our fondness for top-notch mezcals and great tequilas. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly oily at first nosing, with earthy touches and pipe ash, then increasingly briny olive oil and gherkins in brine. This is all very mezcal indeed, though perhaps not quite what one would expect from an Ord. Let’s dig a little deeper, if you don’t mind... With water: more notes of damp paper and wet cardboard, still plenty of olives, some green tapenade (anchovies, garlic and olives), and even a dab of aioli. The malt itself doesn’t have a huge amount to say, but we do enjoy the overall effect. Mouth (neat): a UFO of sorts, the mezcal is front and centre—salty, peppery, briny, packed with olives—then a honey and vanilla combo that feels almost out of place in this context. All this is rather ‘trans’, as they say. With water: the malt resurfaces, with hints of beer and chocolate, but the mezcal still runs the show, cartel-style. Ha. Finish: medium in length, earthier still, with a touch of coconut in the aftertaste. Comments: a wee Glen O(rd)axaca in fine fettle, even if the whole remains a little... odd.
SGP:352 - 82 points. |
|
Glen Ord 12 yo 2012/2025 '100 proof Edition #43' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill bourbon barrel)
Let’s be honest, these fights aren’t much fun when the outcome is this predictable... Colour: pale gold. Nose: grape seed oil and peanut oil at first, then citrus peels, paraffin, fresh barley, sourdough starter, and wee apples from an old orchard. Oh bother! With water: hints of soaked ashes and crushed slate, plus some fresh apple juice. Still awfully painful, I mean, I mean the opposite, right. Mouth (neat): pure lemon and wax. A flawless profile, crystal-clear lines, total freshness—it’s practically a single malt in a bikini. Quite excruciating indeed. With water: I hardly dare say it, but Ord is a truly great malt, and this is an expression of remarkable fidelity and admirable purity. It’s honestly a bit much. Finish: painfully long, precise, chiselled and... painful. Comments: since we’re among ourselves, we can admit that one rather expects this kind of ultra-distillate-forward profile from the... distillers. Signatory really ought to be awarded the Légion d'Honneur (a fairly pointless French bauble).
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
| |
October 16, 2025 |
|
|
A solo tasting, Roseisle!
We never do this – but this time, we’re just not feeling creative enough to pit another malt against Roseisle. Unless… well, you never know... |
|
Roseisle 14 yo 'Harmonic Grace' (55.9%, OB Special Releases 2025, refill and rejuvenated casks)
Remember that? Everyone was talking about Roseisle when the distillery first fired up the stills, and then... radio silence. We visited back then; it was a lovely experience. Playful label, very ‘AI’. The name ‘Harmonic Grace’ sounds like a Buddhist mantra, by Imee Ooi perhaps? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s light, soft, malty, on apples and pears, with no edges and nothing out of place. One thinks of Glenfiddich 12 straight away. With water: a few notes of roasted peanuts and white nougat. Mouth (neat): of course it’s good, it’s ultra-classic, all on malt with touches of coffee, limoncello, and pilsner beer. Very light, very ‘natural’, despite a few hints of that absolute abomination some call Dubai-style chocolate. With water: no major change, save for a faint bitterness. Finish: rather short but pleasing, more on lemons and beer. Comments: this is certainly very good, it’s just a tiny wee tad dull(ish).
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Wait, we've finally got an idea for a sparring partner. What would you say to this…? |
|
Aldunie (Kinninvie) 26 yo 1997/2023 (52.6%, The Whisky Blues, barrel, cask #2032, 155 bottles)
These labels remain as stunning as ever, but William Grant's Kinninvie has never exactly been the stuff of malted dreams... Truth be told, it probably wasn’t designed to catapult malt enthusiasts straight to Mars. Colour: pale gold. Nose: but how very close this is to Roseisle! Pre-AI whisky, one might say, very good, but slightly devoid of emotion. That said, there are plenty of charming wee touches, green tea, putty, lime, quince, fresh rubber... though all of it speaks in a whisper. With water: much the same, though a tad more characterful and earthy than the Roseisle. Mouth (neat): right, this is really very good now, with a lovely lemon and some green apple, along with a hint of liquorice wood. No complaints here. With water: folds in a little, moving towards beer, cider, and liquorice. Finish: rather long, a touch fuller and fresher than the Roseisle’s. Comments: neither Ardbeg nor Brora, but it takes all sorts to build a malty world, does it not. Seriously, this is a very, very good malt, nothing to fault.
SGP:5514 - 85 points. |
| |
October 15, 2025 |
|
|
A cracking stash of M&H
Recent events in the Middle East have given us reason to celebrate — and let’s be honest, such occasions have been rather scarce in recent years. So, we’ll be tasting a few M&H whiskies from Milk & Honey. In fact, quite a few, in true Whiskyfun style. Let’s take a look at what we’ve got in the library...
(Picture M&H) |
 |
|
M&H 2019/2022 'Ex-Rye Casks' (56.7%, OB, APEX, Israel, 2,111 bottles)
We know this kind of light in-cask blending of malt and rye can work rather well. Colour: gold. Nose: it's very dry, led by oak and fresh bread, with the faintest hints of fresh putty in the background. With water: the fruitiness steps forward with dilution, bringing wee pears and a touch of lemon peel, while the rye becomes more vocal too. Bags of green tea. Mouth (neat): very powerful, mostly on oak spices, peppers of all hues and small green fruits, gooseberries, lime, cactus flesh... With water: this is when it's at its most pleasant, fresh, still taut and rather dry, but very clean. Green tea in full bloom and a dab of honey. Finish: quite long and a continuation of the palate. A wee touch of violet in the aftertaste. Comments: very clean and compact, the rye works nicely. In short, we like it.
SGP:451 - 82 points. |
|
M&H 2019/2023 'Madeira Wine Casks' (52.3%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,466 bottles)
This was a dessert-style Madeira wine, not a dry one. Colour: gold. Nose: much more presence than the rye, with a toasted side reminiscent of botrytis, raisins, hints of bresaola, a touch of camphor and an even lighter menthol... With water: and even faint smoky touches after dilution. Mouth (neat): the Madeira sings loudly but it works, very grapey, very expressive, still with those toasted notes but also a good dose of blood orange. Lovely stuff. With water: no major changes but it was already in fine shape. Finish: the blood orange returns alongside sultanas, with some pepper and black tea. A bitterness appears here, but it's well reined in. Comments: cheerful whisky, rather the opposite of the much more austere ex-rye.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
|
M&H 2018/2022 'Pomegranate Wine Casks' (57.4%, OB, APEX, Israel, 3,049 bottles)
This one spent the beginning of its life in bourbon, and was finished for six months in some intriguing pomegranate wine casks. I don’t believe I’ve ever tasted anything quite like this... Colour: gold. Nose: well we’re closer to the rye than the Madeira, surprisingly back to something more austere. Oak, putty, leafy notes... With water: citrus peel emerges. Mouth (neat): here comes the fruit! It’s zesty, lemony, plenty of lime and pink pepper. I’m not quite sure I could identify pomegranate wine blind, I must admit... With water: still citrus-led, and that’s very much to our liking. Note to self: track down a bottle of pomegranate wine post-haste. Finish: oranges return, both sweet and bitter. Comments: lovely tension, a delightful surprise.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
|
M&H 2019/2023 'Tokaji Wine Casks' (52%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 1,550 bottles)
One thing’s for certain, Tokaji and peat clash terribly. But there you go, I think this whisky wasn’t peated... Colour: pale gold. Nose: the sweet wine is rather prominent, bringing us closer to Greek muscats, perhaps even orange wine and rose liqueur. Under these conditions, the malt does seem to struggle a bit to assert itself. With water: water changes everything, it becomes better balanced, more malty, more forthright. Mouth (neat): it’s spectacularly fruity and sweet, yet there’s a peppery acidity that keeps it all in check. In the end, it’s really not bad at all, though the Tokaji remains firmly in charge. With water: once again, water brings balance. White grape berries, not necessarily furmint, a lovely honeyed vanilla and even a wee touch of salt... Finish: medium length, soft, very pleasantly fruity. Comments: water is a must; there you have it.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
|
M&H 2019/2023 'White Port Casks' (53.6%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: a faint whiff of sulphur that's not bothersome in the least, and vanishes quickly anyway, then salted butter caramel and quince jelly. With water: psst, just between us, it’s rather like Glenmorangie’s ex-Sauternes, Nectar d'Or. In fact, I dare say it might be a wee bit better, or rather more to my liking. Mouth (neat): very good, much fresher and livelier than expected, on orange liqueur and crème brûlée, with grated candied orange zest. No quibbles. With water: water often settles the matter, and here it brings out all manner of oranges, which we adore. Finish: aged orangecello and mandarins. Comments: my favourite so far.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
|
M&H 'Hartman's Cigar Blend' (50%, OB, Israel, virgin oak, PX and bourbon, 2024)
Hopefully we’re still allowed to taste this special blend, even if it’s been a long time since we last puffed on a cigar. Colour: deep gold. Nose: bravo. Very malty, closer to barley than all the previous ones, creamier on the nose too, with citrus to be sure, but also herbal infusions, vanilla pod, croissants, brioche — all is well so far. With water: indeed, it’s the citrus, especially tangerines, that lead the dance. Mouth (neat): truly excellent, like a well-made citrus liqueur with very little sugar. We’re miles away from the 'cigar blends' of old, those often heavy-handed things laden with sherry, chocolate, leather and... tobacco. Not here, this is fresh as a daisy. With water: an infusion rich in orange blossom, Earl Grey, and so on... Finish: rather long, a touch more on the wood, but as ever, the citrus straightens everything out. Comments: one almost wants to dig out an old Cuban Dom Pérignon from the humidor to enjoy alongside this splendid little M&H. Well, we’ll think about it.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
I must admit, a slight shiver of apprehension is setting in now... |
|
M&H 2019/2023 'Recioto Wine Casks' (55.1%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles) 
I think Recioto is something of a cousin to Amarone, so we’ll approach this one with a touch of caution. Red wine and whisky, you know how it is... Colour: apricot. Nose: strawberry cake, cherry cake, goji berries and panettone. Perhaps the panettone will come to the front once water is added... With water: black pepper. In theory, pepper and strawberry go together beautifully, but theory and practice often don’t see eye to eye. Mouth (neat): it’s well made, it’s just not my thing. Grenadine, pepper, kirsch-soaked cherries and rustic sourdough. With water: it creaks and squeaks on all fronts. A personal take, as always. Finish: strawberry bread, grape seeds and bitter spices — does strawberry bread even exist? Comments: as I was saying, it’s probably well crafted, but it’s not really my cup of malt.
SGP:461 - 75 points. |
|
M&H 'Jerusalem Mountains' (55.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,285 bottles, 2025)
For this series, terroir refers to where the whisky was matured — in this case at higher altitude, where the climate is gentler than elsewhere in Israel. The concept is somewhat akin to what the Japanese at Mars do with their various ageing cellars. In return, there’s no stated age or vintage here, at least as far as I can tell. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly soft vanilla and a few touches of fir bud liqueur, then a little honey, also fir-driven. All quite subtle, but to the point. With water: classic young malt, very well executed, in the style of certain young Scots or indeed Japanese. Mouth (neat): say no more, this is very good. Fresh, malty, lemony, beautifully herbal, with notes of verbena and a splash of Chartreuse. I rather feel M&H have upped their game with this very recent baby. With water: same impression. Tiny hints of anise and mint, exactly what was called for in this context. Finish: not very long but the addition of finger lime seals the deal. A very faint tarry note in the aftertaste. Comments: let’s remain polite — we won’t say we’re surprised, but... well yes, we are surprised.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
|
M&H 'Dead Sea' (57.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 5,609 bottles, 2025)
Here we are at some -350m altitude, what’s going to happen? I haven’t checked this part, but I imagine the base distillate was the same throughout, and that the only variable was the maturation location. In short, a proper scientific approach... Colour: gold, so a slightly deeper hue. Nose: it’s a little less expressive, a little less fresh, perhaps a tad oilier. One gets sunflower oil, for instance, though I’ve no idea whether sunflowers grow in Israel, ha. The rest is close to the ‘JM’. With water: yes, slightly fattier... Mouth (neat): even closer to the Jerusalem, to be honest I’m not sure I could reliably detect the influence of the maturation site on the palate. Finding more salt, for instance, could simply be a trick of the mind (or what’s left of it, ha). Anyway, let’s move on — it’s very similar... With water: same again, very close, and thus very good. Finish: again very similar, but with some pink grapefruit notes emerging right at the end that weren’t quite as noticeable in the previous one. Comments: to do this sort of thing properly you’d need blind tastings and all sorts of controls. We’re a bit mad, but not that mad. At least, we hope not.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Let’s pick up the pace. We had a feeling these 'Terroir' expressions would be good — but not this good... |
|
M&H 'Sea of Galilee' (56.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,001 bottles, 2025)
Colour: gold. Nose: less expressive than the previous two, probably closer to the more ‘core’ M&H expressions, which we haven’t sampled today. That said, there are some lovely hints of exotic fruits and a few raisins, plus tiny pinches of turmeric and ginger. Raisin and banana cake, would that do for you? With water: closer to the previous ones, perhaps a tad spicier. Mouth (neat): much more expressive on the palate, citrus comes back to take charge, there’s fresh resinous wood — in short, all is well. With water: orange buttercream steps in to keep order, green spices too. Finish: here we’re almost identical to the Dead Sea. Comments: superfluous.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
|
M&H 'Negev Desert' (54.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 2,194 bottles, 2025)
A desert should, in theory, push up the strength, but that doesn’t seem to have been the case here. Colour: gold. Nose: a decidedly fruitier version, more on sweets, jelly babies — honestly, it almost smells like a young Balblair, just like the ones we tried yesterday. Seriously! With water: small citruses, great pleasures. indeed, that’s our new motto. Mouth (neat): fresh, lemony, very pretty, it feels a bit like we’ve landed in the Lowlands of Israel, if such a place existed. With water: well, blow me, they really didn’t miss the mark with this series. Finish: lemon tart, with meringue of course. Comments: a thousand bravos!!!
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
|
M&H 2020/2023 (67.2%, OB, for Whisky Picnic Bar, Israel, Private Cask Selection, Dead Sea ex-bourbon cask, cask #2020-2156, 148 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: nothing, nichts, nada, niente, and that’s the murderous strength. Perhaps a few extremely distant notes of very, very ripe oranges. With water: jelly babies, perhaps... There’s also a marked minerality, quite unusual. And hang on, a bit of pineapple? Mouth (neat): a flamethrower in your mouth, but again, the citrus seems to be trying to wrest back control. With water: now perfect, compact, fruity, irrepressible (yes?) and sublimely citrusy. Finish: young Rosebank? Comments: make no mistake, if folks like our friends in Taiwan are starting to select casks like this, it’s not without good reason. Honestly, we adore it. And blast it, barely three years old!
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
| |
October 14, 2025 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today indie Balblair
Let us see what treasures we hold, and venture forth in search of northern fruits… |
|
Balblair 14 yo 2011/2025 (53.1%, Dràm Mor, PX quarter cask finish, cask #9026, 76 bottles)
Sorry for always writing ‘Dràm Mor’ with only half the required accents, it’s just that while we do have an ‘à’ on a French keyboard, the other one’s sadly missing. I know, lazy typing… Colour: full gold. Nose: the fresh fruitiness of the distillate and the thicker, stickier fruitiness of the PX appear to be getting along peacefully and together sketch out a profile that’s a bit along the lines of sultanas, freshly squeezed orange juice and light honey, with no intrusive woodiness despite it being a quarter cask. With water: peaches poached in wine with pepper. Mouth (neat): powerful, peppery, fairly woody, a bit more disorderly, with notes of Swiss cheese, raisins and spicy orange marmalade. It’s rather unusual, let’s put it that way. With water: little change. Finish: long, even drier, and more peppery too. Dark tobacco. Comments: a somewhat un-Dràm Mor Dràm Mor, this slightly offbeat Balblair in my view. Then again, a PX quarter cask, that’s a bit of an oddball idea, how shall I put it… But we know the next Dràm Mor, whatever it may be, will be in a completely different league.
SGP:561 - 80 points. |
Let’s take the opportunity to bring out an older independent release, from a grand vintage at Balblair… |
|
Balblair 18 yo 1990/2008 (58.7%, Riegger’s Selection, hogshead, cask #160)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: we’re straight into full-on Haribo territory here, with peach and apricot liqueurs, fizzy lemonade, candyfloss and the whole jolly bag of sweets. With water: all-in on stewed apples and rhubarb compote. Mouth (neat): some grey pepper, fruit-flavoured sweets, limoncello and a punchy Californian IPA. But it’s the ginger tonic that comes through next and ends up taking the reins a little. With water: the yellow fruits reclaim their place, banana foam sweets, peaches, lemon… Finish: fairly long, with notes of that fashionable spritz everyone’s into these days, the limoncello spritz. Comments: really good stuff, rather easy, zesty and fresh. Balblair’s fruitiness shines through beautifully.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Hold on, we’ll add an unusual official release for China. So much is happening there these days… |
|
Balblair 1999/2016 (48.1%, OB, for Single Malt Club China, cask #1709, 498 bottles)
I think I had never seen this baby before, but that’s hardly surprising. There were some lovely official 1999s around the mid-2010s. Colour: mahogany. Nose: tons of dried figs, prunes, tamarind jam and toffee. It’s really quite spectacular, like an old PX from a solera that was started ages ago. That said, this extravagant ensemble is then joined by more classic notes of walnut biscuits and pipe tobacco, and even a little aniseed. An extremely exuberant nose and I do wonder, since we’re sort of in China, if there isn’t also a hint of hoisin sauce. Mouth: incredibly powerful at this otherwise rather reasonable strength, with a lovely bitterness to start, then the prunes return with more pepper too, along with heaps of bitter oranges. Black pepper then takes the upper hand, with even a few ashes. Finish: back to tobacco, dark chocolate, and of course, more pepper. Comments: it’s a bit like an old family Armagnac, something like a Ténarèze. I don’t think many malts are made with this level of sherry infusion anymore, but we’re certainly not complaining.
SGP:662 - 88 points. |
| |
October 13, 2025 |
|
|
More remarkable blends and secrets (a solera session)
A solera session means we add tasting notes whenever the fancy takes us, and publish them when we feel like it too. Yeah, alright, it’s a weird concept, just one more for the pile. |
 |
|
Scallywag 'Noir' (52.8%, Douglas Laing, Speyside blended malt, 2025)
'Predominantly finished in PX' does it say on the label. One might quietly wonder whether this isn’t a cheeky rehash of the infamous Loch Dhu, 'the black whisky'. Let’s have a little look then... Colour: not quite black, rather a deep amber, I would say. Nose: this is quite the concoction, no question about that, and indeed, Loch Dhu isn’t a million miles away. Buckets of blackberry and blueberry jam, hefty spoonfuls of black Corinth raisins, then blackstrap molasses and a good pot of strong Russian tea, naturally of the darkest kind. With water: a slight earthiness emerging now. Black soils, naturally. Mouth (neat): what it immediately brings to mind is those old Macallan 'Gran Reserva' bottlings from some twenty years ago. Incredibly sherried. Back then, we did rather raise an eyebrow or two, yet these days they’re rather sought-after. O tempora, o mores. Still brimming with Corinth raisins, thick jams, stuffed dates and even a splash of Armagnac. From Ténarèze, naturally. With water: this edges closer to classic sherry, but in a sweet, rich and very thick PX-driven sort of way. Finish: long and tremendously jammy. Have we mentioned the Corinth raisins? Comments: at one point, we did fear this little fellow might become a bit suffocating, but in the end it remains vastly superior to... Loch Dhu, The Black Whisky.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
|
Timorous Beastie 'Phantom Smoke' (54%, Douglas Laing, Highland Blended Malt, 3,000 bottles, 2025)
This was '100% finished in heavily charred crocodile casks'. I believe this is entirely new, the less seasoned enthusiast will be relieved to learn that 'crocodile' refers not to the material used to build the cask (this isn’t a handbag), but to an extremely intense charring method also known as 'alligator'. Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh, very much on 'eau-de-vie', with touches of wax and apple and pear skins, then orange blossom focaccia. With water: waxes, lanolin and leatherette, plus plenty of small fruits from the garden. To be honest and fair, we’ve tried our best but are failing to locate any trace of 'phantom smoke'. It's true that we do not believe in them. Mouth (neat): this is simply excellent, crocodile char or not. A gently earthy maltiness, close to raw barley, husk, grist, and, well, you get the idea. And apples. With water: becoming increasingly 'Sutherland', which is most delightful. Waxy apples and oranges. Finish: long, fresher and crisper, more on green apple. Comments: I fear we’ve entirely missed both the 'crocodile wood' and the 'phantom smoke', but what’s certain is that this is a superb offering, well done to the wee mouse.
SGP: 551 - 87 points. |
|
House of Hazelwood 33 yo (57.3%, OB, The Legacy Collection, blended grain, 291 bottles, 2024)
They say this is a 'transatlantic blended grain scotch whisky'. We’ll take their word for it, although how a Scotch can be transatlantic is anyone’s guess. Reading the label more closely, we learn there was extended maturation in virgin American oak, which may explain the claim. Fair enough! Colour: rich gold. Nose: this does indeed sit somewhere between old bourbon and mature Scottish grain. Coconut, macaroons, fresh oak and popcorn aplenty. With water: even more towards the fresh oak, joiner’s workshop, perhaps even a luthier’s atelier. Mouth (neat): white chocolate, coconut liqueur, soft nougat, charred corn on the cob and just a couple of drops of orgeat. It’s really very gentle. With water: softer still, edging into liqueur territory now, even more coconut, then milk chocolate with crushed hazelnuts. Finish: not particularly long, but the white chocolate and grated coconut come roaring back with a vengeance. Comments: rather an anti-malt, and in that sense not quite a whisky for us nasty purists, but I’ll readily admit this is absolutely delicious. One for pudding!
SGP:630 - 87 points. |
|
Sutherland Blended Malt (47.9%, Thompson Bros., blended malt, Limburg 2024 exclusive, 120 bottles)
Yep, late again etc... Colour: white wine. Nose: apples, apples, apples and plums, arranged in a fresh, youthful and lively composition, reminiscent of what one finds in the charming seaside town of Brora, though with less wax. Could there be a spot of Westport in here? Mouth: we adore this honesty, this very earthy purity, full of terroir, orchard fruits and even a slight salinity. Finish: long, more on herbs now, and even saltier. Comments: don’t tell me they added seawater when no one was looking? In any case, we’re rather fond of this slightly unruly youngster in the end.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
While we're in Limburg... |
|
Blended Scotch Whisky 19 yo 2005/2025 (45.1%, Fadandel, Whisky Fair 2025, refill sherry butt, cask #91)
Oops, not for Limburg after all, but for Kolding. We’ll look up where Kolding is later. There are whisky fairs everywhere these days. And let it be known that many so-called blended Scotches now contain not a drop of grain. Colour: gold. Nose: this is very gentle, very soft, rather moderately aromatic, and actually seems to contain a fair bit of grain on the nose. So, it is a proper 'blended Scotch', my bad. Milk chocolate, dried flowers, maize and vanilla. Mouth: more pleasing on the palate, the malts begin to show, with sunflower oil, light beer, chamomile infusion, and half a spoonful of marmalade. Finish: medium in length, leaning back towards the grain. Popcorn, dried apples and delicate honeys. Comments: a blend that may be finding its feet, but it remains thoroughly good, like everything coming from Fadandel, really.
SGP:640 - 83 points. |
|
Enigma 40 yo (44.5%, Cadenhead, Highland single malt, bourbon hogsheads, 636 bottles, 2025)
A Scottish malt sporting the flag of England, really? Right, rumour has it, unrefuted, mind you, that this is in fact Glenmorangie 1985. So, let’s go in search of almond, plum and vanilla pastries, shall we... Colour: gold. Nose: take a young Sauternes from a respectable little château, pour in some orange and quince juice, toss in a few shards of vanilla fudge, and you’ll be hard pressed to claim this couldn’t be Glenmorangie. Or Westport, come to that. Mouth: a rather entertaining arrival, sweet, salty, sour, bitter, we’re only missing umami. Then it opens up on beer, hops, a fairly delicate oakiness and a hint of English cigarette tobacco. Finish: fairly long, more on wood now, with apricot and peach skins. Then oolong tea, quince and a drizzle of honey. Comments: there’s absolutely nothing here to prove this isn’t Glenmorangie. A cask that’s held beautifully through four full decades.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
|
Old Perth 21 yo 'Macallan & Highland Park' (43.6%, Morrison Scotch Whisky Distillers, blended malt, oloroso sherry casks, 2025)
This is indeed a blended malt, but we’re told exactly what’s in it, even if not the proportions. It’s one of those Edrington blends that pop up here and there, though in this case with no grain whisky whatsoever. The Highland Park dates from 2004, while the Macallan was older. The marriage took place in 2015, quite by chance according to the story, and they lived happily ever after in cask for another ten years, until now. Rather touching, no? Colour: mahogany. Nose: it’s a Christmas chocolate selection box, complete with pralines, dark chocolate, gianduja, and of course, whisky truffles. Then come notes of jam—blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrant—and some marmalade, with a faint coastal touch, no doubt from the HP. Mouth: really very good, still chocolatey, with a dry sherry style that does recall younger Macallans from thirty years ago. Then those jams return, lifted by lemon juice and black pepper. Nothing to complain about here, this is excellent, with also a faint saline note, perhaps from the HP. Finish: good length, perfectly in line with the palate, with full-cocoa dark chocolate ultimately taking charge. Comments: utterly excellent and very old-school sherry, very oloroso-y indeed.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
|
Couvreur 2016 'Garden Party Edition 2024' (51%, Michel Couvreur, for Au Jardin Vouvrillon, 200 bottles)
Pure Golden Promise barley here, and an unnamed Scottish single malt, matured in first fill cream sherry in the house’s cellar in Burgundy. Logic would suggest Glen Garioch, since the label reads 'Old Meldrum', but nothing is certain. Colour: golden amber. Nose: the cream sherry—a mix of oloroso and sweet PX, sometimes with a hint of Moscatel—certainly makes itself known, but I must say the combination with Golden Promise screams old-style Macallan, here as well. On the other hand, there’s a faintly earthy note, even wet beach sand, that could suggest Glen Garioch from quite a few years ago, albeit unpeated. The abundance of walnut, naturally, calls back to the sherry. With water: water brings out touches of pine resin, oil lamp and old cellar. In Burgundy, naturally. Mouth: the sherry is assertive, but it’s a lovely cask, balanced, sitting somewhere between toffee, fudge, chestnut cream, toasted sesame oil and walnut liqueur. In the background, a few dried Corinth raisins and hints of tobacco. With water: moves toward dried fig. Classic stuff... Finish: fairly long, rather creamy, reminding me somewhat of a tobacco ice cream I once tasted long ago. Comments: I must confess this is excellent, without the overly sweet notes one might fear from something labelled 'cream'.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
|
The Bastard No.2 14 yo 2009/2024 (62%, The Whisky Dudes, blended malt, refill butt and fresh Madeira finish) 
Madeira often works rather well. Colour: full gold. Nose: an immediate blast of sulphur (from candles), then spent matches, then flintlock stone. No leek and cabbage soup let’s not exaggerate, but yes to mains gas. This takes quite a while to settle, but oddly, it doesn’t clash entirely with the Madeira. I suspect water will be crucial here. With water: it’s calmed down a little, but the sulphur remains front and centre, now mingling with MSG and Brussels sprouts. What a strange beast! Mouth (neat): again, very odd, but that oddness is oddly likeable. Right. Pepper, mustard and truffle oil. With water: devilled sauce, horseradish and toffee, green pepper and leather, cinnamon infusion, Sichuan pepper, liquorice wood... It’s really quite mad and, in any case, totally deviant. Finish: very long, very peppery, rather bitter. A huge dollop of mustard in the aftertaste, but it’s true that dry Madeiras can exhibit pronounced mustardy notes. Comments: well, we were warned, they didn’t call it 'The Bastard' for nothing. Great fun, but technically, no way this can climb to 80 points or more, it’s just too... deviant. The sulphur is omnipresent but the whole is very... fun.
SGP:472 - 79 points. |
We’re wrapping up our Solera No.1 here – Solera No.2 will be kicking off soon. |
| |
October 12, 2025 |
|
|
|
|
A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A selection of rums to ease us into winter
Let’s begin with the inevitable aperitif which, generally speaking, is anything but a true malternative. Still, it’s important to take a broader view, isn’t it? |
|
Carùpano 12 yo 'Reserva Exclusiva' (40%, OB, Venezuela, +/-2024)
What, you say poor Venezuela hasn’t yet become an American state? Colour: gold. Nose: molasses honey and corn syrup, just missing the pancakes. Joking aside, it’s harmless and not at all unpleasant. Mouth: too sweet, though you do get a touch of sugarcane. One does wonder whether there’s actually any alcohol in here. A hint of orange liqueur, which is rather nice. Finish: short, sweet, but not dreadful. Comments: we’re certainly not about to rush out and buy a pallet of double-magnums, but there’s something endearingly cheerful here. For a rum bearing the words ‘reserva’ and ‘exclusiva’—always a red flag for the bargain basement—it’s doing surprisingly well.
SGP:720 - 72 points. |
|
Ampov 2022/2025 (45%, OB, Cambodia, Ex-Cognac cask, batch #2)
We’d already greatly enjoyed their ex-Port version two or three weeks ago (WF 87), and Cognac ought to work even better, exerting less influence on the distillate. Colour: pale gold. Nose: perfect pot still rum, fresh, very close to the cane, delightfully grassy (hay, lawn, a bit of compost and even cow dung, which is splendid), then veering towards fermenting fruits, plums, bananas... The Cognac seems to be playing a background role, and that’s just how we like it. Mouth: oh, this is lovely! Hints of diesel and liquorice laid over a bed of bananas and olives. Well, that’s about the size of it. It’s just ever so slightly lacking in alcoholic backbone—perhaps it would shine even more brightly at 48 or 50%. But not my business, as they say. Finish: good length, saltier now, even more on olives, capers and samphire. Candied lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: a future rum star, in my very humble opinion, especially as there’s something quite rare here in the world of rum and aged spirits more broadly: a refreshing humility.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
|
Papa Rouyo 'Viraj' (52.9%, OB, LMDW Itinéraires, Guadeloupe, agricole, ex-sherry, 2025)
Let’s say it plainly, we were quite fond of the first Papa Rouyos, but we’ve never had the time or the space to follow their progression, which we rather regret. Colour: gold. Nose: very discreet, to say the least. Biscuits, amaretti, a couple of drops of maraschino, a bit of marmalade, kirsch-soaked cherries... This cherry note is intriguing, let’s see where it leads... With water: now we’re getting closer to the cane and the earth, after a tropical downpour. Mouth (neat): this is straight up cherry and pistachio cake. Or perhaps a Black Forest gâteau with a double shot of kirsch. Agreed, we’re straying a bit far from Guadeloupe. With water: once again we’re pulled back towards a slightly lemony cane, as if by an elastic band. Hints of strawberry liqueur too. Finish: medium length, leaning more towards jammy notes and pink pepper. Comments: cracking stuff, just a touch disconcerting.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
|
Planteray 15 yo 2010/2025 'Haiti' (40.5%, Planteray, for LMDW, cognac finish, cask #Rime F2-13, 258 bottles)
This from distillerie de Jeanty, though I must humbly admit I haven’t the faintest idea who or where that is. And we shan’t even ask ChatGPT, alright? As by our reckoning, about 50% of what ChatGPT says on spirits is utter nonsense. I kid you not. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a clairin side to this, which is already enough to make us happy. Olives, carbon, rubber, rotting fruit, damp earth, rainwater... Mouth: loco-loco, with some improbable fruitiness and again those ‘rotten’ notes, but we can’t help ourselves, we love all these deviations. Let’s be clear, this isn’t Glenmorangie. Finish: long, curiously tertiary, candied fruit -> mint -> earth -> esters. Only the aftertaste is slightly less to my liking, a bit too sweet for me. Comments: never tried this sort of rather unlikely combination before, and that’s no doubt where its charm lies, here at WF Towers.
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
|
HD 2014/2024 '<>H' (56.8%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter catch 1, Jamaica, refill barrel, 165 bottles)
We’re very pleased indeed, as there are tonnes of new Hampdens around at the moment. So, it’s time to clear out last year’s releases, isn’t it? Colour: pale gold. Nose: as soon as you fill your wee tasting glass, it’s as if you’ve just opened a box of brand-new made-in-China Nikes. Simply add the requisite amount of olive oil, fresh tar and rubber. With water: curiously Chinese. It’s been nearly forty years since I first visited China, and those ‘crazy plastic’ aromas have never quite left me. Mouth (neat): extreme and magnificent. You know the drill, varnish, solvent, olives and lemons, with a surprisingly refreshing lift. With water: there must be fruit, and here it’s lemon. Finish: same again, with a vinegary saltiness taking the lead and refusing to let go. Comments: painfully good, if we may say so.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
It’s very hard to follow a Hampden—unless it’s with another Hampden of the integral muerte variety... Especially when it’s from the same crazy brand... |
|
Hampden 8 yo 2017/2025 '<>H' (67.9%, OB, Jamaica, bourbon barrel, cask 44, 229 bottles)
You’ve seen the ABV, of course we called our lawyers immediately—you can never be too careful. Dear people of Hampden, you may well become acquainted with my (not necessarily grieving) widow if anything goes awry here... Colour: gold. Nose: it’s getting tedious—yet another marvel. Peaches, quinces, acetone, seawater, diesel oil and old-school hairspray. With water: same again. Mouth (neat): Hampden, I hate you. Remember the saying, hating someone is like drinking poison and waiting for them to die—never has that been more apt. With water: utterly incredible, and at around 45% ABV it crushes you like some miserable Republican worm. Or a pitiful French bureaucrat—they’re no better. Alright, let’s calm down, these Hampdens do send you a bit mad... Finish: eh? Comments: a proper little marvel—perhaps the Zeus of spirits these days.
SGP:572 - 92 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
|
| |
October 10, 2025 |
|
|
Six Glen Garioch of all kinds |
Some recent releases and some old glories, to accompany and explore the frequent stylistic changes of the famous distillery from the Eastern Highlands. Granted, it’s not the first time we’ve done this, but it’s fascinating to trace the different eras of Glen Garioch. Well, let’s say we’ll give it a go...
(Visit Scotland/AI) |
 |
|
Glen Garioch 11 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 2025)
A double maturation in bourbon and fino, now that is intriguing, perhaps the fino will drag this distillate back to its older style, the one from the 1970s?... Colour: pale gold. Nose: there was a notion, but not quite, it doesn’t veer towards peaty smoke, rather towards sharp apple, mustard and seaweed, then increasingly towards soot and damp cardboard. Let’s say we’re halfway there, and that’s clearly the fino talking. Mouth: exactly what we were expecting, to the point where we’re wondering whether it wasn’t rather some pumped-up manzanilla instead. Seawater, lemon, mustard, cider apple, bitter orange. As almost always, the 46% strength is spot on. Finish: long, even more saline, almost on a mix of seawater and lemon juice. Comments: we’re rather fond of this, although it’s probably not terribly crowd-pleasing.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
|
Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2022 (53.4%, Whiskyjace, Art Edition No.7, barrel)
I was tempted to say a few words about the label, but we’re short on time (it’s morning, S.) Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh apple, limestone, a touch of paraffin, and mandarin peel. It’s fairly tight, but very pretty. For now... With water: it tightens up a little around malted barley, paraffin and candle wax. Amen. Mouth (neat): like the Cadenhead, sans the fino. Very lemony, fresh, taut, with a fine burst of sauvignon blanc in full flow, as in a Sancerre. With water: we remain in the same territory, although once again the barley peeks through. The lemon holds its ground, however. Finish: long, fresh, on apple, lemon and cereals. Comments: a bit like a Lowland, but with more body. In any case, we’re close to the distillate here, and we love that. A lot.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
|
Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (53.2% Hidden Spirits for Rudder, Japan, cask #GG1123, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 267 bottles)
Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: very close to the previous one, only this time seemingly stripped of any cask influence, and so we’re on apple, wax and lemon zest, but in infinitesimal amounts. With water: chalk, grist and soot. Sounds like the name of a 1965 American folk trio. Mouth (neat): is it a little newmakey? Probably, there’s eau-de-vie here, notably kirsch and pear, along with grass and limoncello. My only issue is that I rather like this ultra-natural style. With water: once again it tightens up on apple peel and citrus rind over a bed of fresh malt. Perhaps a little elementary at this stage. Finish: long, narrow, compact, on grass and barley. It’s almost a regression. Comments: malt in its natural state, tailor-made for Hobbes and Rousseau.
SGP:451 - 86 points. |
|
Glengarioch 13 yo 2011/2025 (52.5%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain and Ireland, 1st fill European oak Oloroso finish, cask #374456, 592 bottles)
I rather like their dainty touch of spelling Glen Garioch as one word. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry is obvious, of course, and comes laden with heaps of tobacco and old ashes from an old pipe. Plenty of mustard, oregano, sage and Maggi too, over a slice of smoked ham. With water: honey! Do you hear that? Honey! Chestnut honey, no less! Our favourite honey... Mouth (neat): dry again, on a mix of leather, more mustard, more lemon, more tobacco, and walnut wine (Nusswasser). With water: not much movement now, save for the arrival of Seville oranges and turmeric, but all in measured doses. Finish: just a tad rounder and softer, no doubt the influence of that very chestnut honey. Comments: of course it’s very good, we were expecting no less.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
|
Glen Garioch 15 yo 2010/2025 (53.3%, Wu Dram Clan, for Whisky Live Hamburg, oloroso sherry butt, cask #5611, 191 bottles)
By purest chance, just as we’ll be putting this tasting note online, we’ll be en route to Whisky Live Hamburg via Deutsche Bahn. See you there? Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps it’s due to a few extra years, but here we’re decidedly closer to the ground, to the earth—both the acidic Scottish soil and that chalky albariza of Jerez. There’s also quite a bit of salted butter caramel, walnut biscuits, ultra-dried raisins forgotten in an old iron tin, and dried jujubes... In short, it’s complex, certainly broader than the previous ones. With water: the water awakens a touch of new leather and tobacco but also amplifies the dried fruits, very much like an apéritif mix. Which is jolly convenient... Mouth (neat): a little flint at first, then it unrolls, starting on bitter orange, moving through various dried fruits, notably thin apple slices and of course sultanas and goji berries, then drifting towards pepper and cardamom. With water: that flinty edge becomes even more pronounced, yet we’re not into the sulphur, and it makes a rather lovely counterpoint to the dried fruits queueing up at the door. Figs, raisins, longans, dates and so on. Finish: long, curiously massive and yet balanced, with the pepper gradually taking control, followed by more bitter orange lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: the way the pepper arrives unexpectedly in the dying moments is quite something. Fortunately, we’re rather fond of pepper.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
And this little one from days gone by, we did more or less promise it to you, if I’m not mistaken... |
|
Glen Garioch 29 yo 1968 (55.4%, OB, for the US, Distillery Archive, hogshead, cask #617, +/-1997)
Some of the greatest malt whiskies in the world ended up in this official series which, it must be said, now seems rather unfairly forgotten. To be fair, many of these bottles had more sherry than actual bottles of sherry. Truly... Colour: mahogany. Nose: the union of peat and sherry, in the manner of certain legendary Laphroaigs. A sublime medley of spices and dried fruits, which we shan’t list here, plus mentholated liquorice and high-grade tar. We’ll stop there for now, but the score may speak volumes. With water: oh, those varnishes, those paints, that turpentine, that linseed oil! Mouth (neat): these Glen Gariochs from the late 1960s to the mid-1970s rank among the greatest peated malts in the world. Here, it’s chocolate locked in a duel with smoke, underpinned by a sublime dryness that leads, naturally, to deeply infused aged walnut liqueur. The bitterness is magnificent. With water: the citrus leaps from the glass like frogs from a pond, especially blood oranges and bergamots. Finish: very long, now utterly sublime, salted butter, crème brûlée, old walnuts, fir honey, sweet paprika, ashes... Comments: none, forgive me.
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
| |
October 9, 2025 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today Glen Moray 10 yo
Just a tequila-finished OB, followed by an IB that should take a very different path. |
 |
|
Glen Moray 10 yo 2014/2024 'Tequila Cask Finish' (55.2%, OB, Warehouse 1)
Tequila is now among those rather curious new finishes being imposed upon our dear malt whiskies, though to be fair, if even His Majesty Lagavulin has done it, then they’re all allowed a go, aren’t they. Naturally, we jest, amigo—agave might well lend a kick to younger Speysiders that may not otherwise be terribly distinctive... Colour: gold. Nose: to be honest, we remain firmly in malt territory, with green apple, beer, and indeed some grapefruit and pink pepper, before discreet whiffs of mezcal begin to emerge. It’s no condor of the Andes just yet, but it’s quite pleasant. Yep, we do know where the Andes are... With water: the water seems to bring the malt forward and tone down the tequila’s impact. Well, fancy that. Mouth (neat): fairly brutal on the palate, with plenty of lime peel and a good dose of green pepper, but also, indeed, an earthy, medicinal side that’s rather unusual. The tequila, perhaps? With water: the whisky turns extremely cloudy, almost like pastis, but the whole remains quite coherent, now bolstered by additional citrus, salt, and... peat. Hold on... Finish: long, very limey, bordering on a turbocharged margarita. Comments: honestly, it’s fun, it’s well made, and the two spirits do manage to tango quite nicely together... Mexican tango.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
|
Glen Moray 10 yo 2014/2025 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill sherry hogshead, 297 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: at first, a fairly classic sherry, with those touches of young bourbon one sometimes finds in certain ex-sherries, especially a bit of fresh wood varnish, but then come less usual notes such as grilled aubergines and green pepper, and perhaps even black olives (a very small black olive). In short, a highly amusing and rather surprising Mediterranean twist. With water: coal tar and new rubber! And compost. All very intriguing and thoroughly lovely. Mouth (neat): a tad aggressive, peppery, even spicy, yet full of charm and anything but boring. We always enjoy this sort of thing. With water: still cohesive. Salted butter caramel with black pepper, plus a few strands of tobacco that might have wafted from your unfiltered Gauloise. Finish: very long, bringing in green walnuts and old ones too. More salt in the aftertaste, some amaro, and even a return of that varnishy, walnut-stain-like character. Comments: a slightly mad Glen Moray, certainly deviant, but here ‘deviant’ rather seems to amount to an obvious competitive edge (what?) We love it.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
Indeed, we’re absolutely loving this slightly mad young Glen Moray, so much so that Decadent Drinks even earned themselves a ticket for another round… |
|
Glen Moray 31 yo 1990-1991-1992/2025 (50.5%, WhiskyLand Chapter Seventeen, Decadent Drinks, refill hogsheads, 223 bottles, 2025)
A multivintage in the style they so enjoy producing, with a charming, self-explanatory label that leaves little doubt as to what’s inside. Colour: full gold. Nose: a world of honeyed delights and ripe orchard fruits, all of them very mature. A dash of lemon juice has been drizzled over the whole to lend a most becoming liveliness. With water: a touch more tension emerges, ever so slightly herbal, along with three or four sultanas and a tiny profiterole. Mouth (neat): mirrors the nose. One simply feels compelled to add that it’s very good. With water: honestly, just the same, ripe apples, plums, soft honeys, hints of fresh hay and herbal infusions, plus a wee dash of yellow chartreuse and verbena. A whisper of mint and liquorice too. Finish: this is where some sherry makes itself more apparent, particularly through notes of leather, walnuts and tobacco, though it all remains gentle and well-mannered. A touch of tannin in the aftertaste. Comments: tasted blind, you might almost mistake this for an official Glenlivet 30-year-old. In truth, it’s the polar opposite of the 10-year-old above and, at times, we had them both at the same score.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
| |
October 8, 2025 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today indie Cardhu
We were mainly keen to revisit a Cardhu from Cadenhead’s that we gave a really poor rating to about… fifteen years ago. Independently bottled Cardhus are rare enough to warrant this sort of attempt at rehabilitation (right). But first, a more recent expression, also independently bottled. |
|
Cardhu 10 yo 2013/2023 (48.4%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask #DL18175, 367 bottles)
Frankly, this wee taster doesn’t quite know what to expect here, but let’s trust that if DL deemed it worthy of single cask status, they must have had a good reason, so let’s see... Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: if you’re partial to Williams pear eau-de-vie, this one’s squarely for you. And thus, very much for me too, as I’m awfully fond of Williams pear. Beyond that, we find a little custard, vanilla fudge, and sugarcane syrup. Mouth: it’s a touch firmer on the palate, more tutti-frutti as it were, but also sweeter, evoking candied apples and those Haribo jellybeans we do mention from time to time. Other than that, the cask appears to have been even lazier than Gontcharov’s Oblomov. Finish: medium in length, very clean, with malt, apple and lemon all making a fine return. Comments: we’re really quite close to certain Glenfiddichs here. Very pretty stuff, though one has to be comfortable with this rather ‘immature’ style. As for me, I’m quite taken.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
And so, this infamous Cadenhead that deserves a second chance... |
|
Cardhu (Cardow) 13 yo 1987/2000 (56.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 312 bottles)
With a bit more bottle ageing than the last time... Colour: straw. Nose: well now, we’re back in the nudist territory of that DL style, all apple and pear spirit, though this one’s rather more on the herbal side, with amusing whiffs of gherkin and even curly kale, plus some flint and freshly broken stones. With water: the stones come to the fore, the rest retreating politely. Mouth (neat): blimey, this has blossomed into something lovely, extremely lively and taut, very sharp, bursting with green apples and a few bitter oranges and lemons, then some rather under-ripe berries. With water: excellent! A veritable ode to bottle ageing. Limoncello, orange juice, green apple liqueur, fir honey, chalk. Finish: similar, though a notch more herbal. Hints of absinthe and green pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: well, there we are then!
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
| |
October 7, 2025 |
|
|
Three Glenlivet plus two, including a prestigious last-minute guest
Three independents from Signatory and one official bottling, does that sound good to you? And how about we finish off with the oldest single malt in the world? |
Paul Nash, Battle of Britain, 1941, oil paint on
canvas (IWM Non-Commercial Licence) |
|
Speyside (GL) 16 yo ‘Edition 7’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 2024)
Nothing proves it’s Glenlivet but it’s hard to imagine what else it could be. Colour: amber. Nose: a proper old-school sherry, all about walnut cake and bone-dry raisins, with a lovely spoonful of orange marmalade thrown in for good measure. With water: faint touches of damp forest floor and a dab of menthol. Mouth (neat): rather more assertive and self-assured than the nose would suggest, though it does lean on the rustic side. Marmalade, chocolate and toffee jostling for attention. With water: here come hints of ginger, along with a creamy swirl of pistachio and almond custard. Finish: fairly long, staying its course without major deviation. Still some ginger, now with a good crack of black pepper. Comments: very good, though it does have a somewhat unrefined edge. Ideal for the chrome hipflask emblazoned with the Confederate flag and the Harley-Davidson logo.
SGP:451 - 83 points. |
|
Speyside (GL) 16 yo ‘Edition 8’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 2025)
Colour: amber. Nose: this one feels tighter, more chocolatey yet also more refined, with a noticeably richer Armagnac-soaked prune character. We’re preferring this so far. With water: it aligns with the previous in overall style, just with a slightly greener, more herbaceous touch. Mouth (neat): clearly our favourite, there’s more wattage, more verve, a lovely burst of pink pepper, oranges, toasted almonds… With water: no question, this one pulls ahead of Edition 7, more citrus-led with a good crackle of pepper and even a faint earthy rootiness coming through. Finish: long, lifted by zest and elegantly bitter peppers. Comments: it still carries a rustic edge, mind you, but more the kind of rustic you’d find in a stainless-steel hipflask from the MoMA design shop.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
|
Glenlivet 28 yo 1976/2005 (57.5%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, refill but, cask #4310, 384 bottles)
We’ll admit it, we weren’t especially taken with these Glenlivet batches back in the day, but a bit of time in bottle can work wonders. Mind you, we had been far more impressed by other Glenlivet casks from S.V. Colour: white wine. Nose: the butt was clearly on the shy side, here we’re leaning more towards cider apples and gooseberries, with a little porridge and honeyed oat gruel in the background. This isn’t hard rock, nor is it free jazz. With water: it stays soft and simple, bringing to mind tinned greengages. Mouth (neat): very lively, all on green apples and green pepper. Quite the surprise. With water: a touch of almond milk appears, but it remains surprisingly narrow and perhaps not immensely inspired. Finish: same story, just a bit of lemon and green apple stepping in to save the day. Comments: let’s not go overboard, it’s still really good, but believe it or not, we find the recent ‘100 Proof’ editions superior.
SGP:461 - 82 points. |
Let’s move on to the official bottling, after a long break due to the drop in bottling strength, not always the easiest to manage in a lineup... |
|
Glenlivet 25 yo (43%, OB, The Sample Room Collection, PX & cognac, +/-2023)
A finish in first-fill Pedro Ximénez Sherry and ex-Cognac casks made from oak from the Tronçais forest, top-notch wood! Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s really all on patchouli and dried figs at first, then moves swiftly into plum tart dusted with cinnamon, followed by chestnut honey subtly laced with black pepper. I must say I’m rather fond of this nose, PX and Cognac or not. A beautifully crafted aromatic profile, very classy indeed. Mouth: same impression, this is very well put together, elegant and reasonably full of flavours of cake, honey and soft spices, with cinnamon leading the pack. Lovely touches of marzipan-stuffed dates and then vine peach jam, which may well be the Cognac speaking. Finish: not hugely long at this strength, but still balanced, drifting more towards chocolate filled with raisins. Comments: I really like this very elegant, gentle and flavourful Glenlivet, certainly more so than the old 25 ‘XXV’ from a good ten years ago.
SGP:541 - 88 points. |
A last-minute addition: the new oldest single malt in the world, and therefore, inevitably, the oldest Glenlivet. This new baby – though it's becoming rather difficult to call this sort of malt a 'baby' – has knocked last year’s 84-year-old Macallan off the top spot as the oldest single malt ever bottled. For the record, we never got to taste the latter. Letting people taste something like this is clearly a bold move, especially when it's being served to commentators who likely won’t be buying it, and who therefore won’t be going through the usual mental and/or vocal process of justifying their purchase decision. Perhaps it’s this kind of attitude that sets the braver houses apart from the less daring ones, or from those with less confidence in their products, or who prefer to put all their energy and budget into pedestalising said products. You know, the way many used to do back in 2015... Anyway, enough rambling. Hats off and thanks to G&M for letting us taste their most extraordinary whiskies, truly a class act... |
|
|
Glenlivet 85 yo 1940/2025 'Artistry in Oak' (43.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, first fill American oak transport sherry butt, cask #336, 125 bottles)
This butt was part of a small batch of former transport casks that made several trips back and forth between Jerez and Bristol before being decommissioned and falling into the hands of Gordon & MacPhail, who had them filled at the Glenlivet distillery in early February 1940, just five months after the start of WWII for the United Kingdom (and France). Some of these casks have already been bottled, notably at 70 years of age (WF 91) and 80 years (WF 93). There could be two or three left following this brand-new 85-year-old, and my own little theory is that we might eventually see a 90-year-old, maybe even a 95, and who knows, perhaps a 100. Or perhaps not... I do hope to be around to taste that potential 100-year-old, is it possible to sign up already? Now, the usual doomsayers will claim that at such an age, whisky has long since passed its prime. In my experience, that’s often true – but not with Gordon & MacPhail. Proof? If proof were needed, we actually preferred the 80-year-old to the 70. Naturally, the casks are carefully monitored, and in any case, any malt becoming too fragile or overly tannic would be cast aside without hesitation for a release of this stature. So, shall we taste?
< (I suppose the bottle and its container can then be used as the Olympic torch for Los Angeles 2028) |
Colour: deep gold. This relatively light hue is already, in itself, an excellent sign. Nose: the first clue arrives instantly, this cask housed several generations of sherry and has evidently rid itself, at least in part, of its most assertive tannins. The result is immediate notes of sweet almonds and fresh oil paint of great beauty. Think ex-Matisse studio, or better still, Paul Nash – the vintage fits. Then come marmalades and even fresh oranges, leading us to where all great aged spirits eventually converge: dried apricots, peaches in syrup, and old Sauternes, the whole accentuated by just a discreet flick of crème de menthe and fir bud liqueur. From the Vosges, naturally. And a whisper of liquorice. The freshness is astonishing, it’s almost a sprightly 85-year-old gentleman, the Harrison Ford of single malt. In truth, this nose is superb regardless of age; after all, 'age is just a number', isn’t it? |
Cask #336. You can clearly read the
marque 'Bertola Xeres', which you can
still find today at Diez-Mérito. |
Mouth: once again, the freshness is remarkable. You do feel the age, please don’t put words in my mouth, age absolutely matters here. It’s just that there’s no fatigue, no weariness, no drying out, as is sometimes the case. Time, indeed, but without the ravages. Apple tart, candied oranges, reduced-sugar marmalade (really), a touch of English pipe tobacco, quince liqueur, pollen and honey, again that trace of fir liqueur, and even, would you believe, some perfectly ripe fresh cherries. That’s perhaps the most surprising and frankly extraordinary part. Finish: rather long, and now even more complex, with the emergence of various teas and herbal infusions, which might be responsible for the very faintest hint of tannin that, however, never becomes drying, not even in the slightest. And just the tiniest touches of cocoa and thyme in the aftertaste. Comments: to be honest, one almost doesn’t feel like assigning a score to this genuine work of art, but then again, that’s what we do. Still, we shall allow ourselves to include a very modest emotional factor in this final tally.
SGP:561 - 95 points. |
At this rate, it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that a 100-year-old — and I swear this is pure speculation on my part, because I haven’t the slightest hint of any information about the possibility of a 100-year-old in 2040 — might well score 100 points. At that point, we could shut down Whiskyfun for good… assuming that miserable little website is still around by then. After all, the Malt Maniacs' motto was, quite fittingly, ‘Quaestio Aqua Vitae Perfectum Per Ardua Ad Nauseam’. |
Previous entries
(archived)
|
|
| |
|
|
