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Hi, you're in the Archives, September 2014 - Part 2 |
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September 30, 2014 |
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Two little independent Glenglassaugh |
There aren’t that many independent Glenglassaughs, probably and partly because the distillery’s been silent for so long. Today we’ll have one Russian and one German expression at similar strengths. |
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Glenglassaugh 20 yo 1986/2006 (46%, Bristol Spirits for The Collection of Whiskies, Russia)  Thanks to some Russian friends on Facebook, I could learn that this series was made for Kollektsia Vin, a chain of wine shops in Moscow that was later bought by supermarket company Azbuka Vkusa, in 2010. So the range doesn’t exist anymore. How this bottle ended up in a nice little Breton wine shop, I don’t know. Colour: straw. Nose: typical. There’s a slight feeling of warm paraffin at first nosing, maybe touches of printing ink, then more moss and grass, as well as green apples. All that is rather fresh, and gets maltier after one minute or two. Porridge. Mouth: it’s good, solid malt whisky, with an orangey freshness, apples, always this slight waxy feeling, grass and then a few fresh walnuts. There isn’t much happening, but the feeling is pleasant. Finish: of medium length, always on oranges, walnuts and light wax. Rather cider in the aftertaste, with a sourness. Comments: maybe not a malt I’ll remember forever, but it went down well. SGP:451 - 82 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 34 yo 1976/2010 (45.9%, Art of Whisky, Artworks, bourbon, cask #2380)  This little German bottler has already issued quite a handful of excellent whiskies, always fairly priced if I remember well. Colour: white wine. Nose: there is this paraffin again, but otherwise it’s a finer spirit than the 1986, with more fruits although I wouldn’t call this ‘fruity’. Apples, greengages… Also touches of lemon, then whiffs of sunflower oil, unless that would rather be grape pips oil. It’s a rather delicate spirit, but it’s got character. A light character… Mouth: ah yes, this is where the differences wrt the 1986 are most obvious. Bigger, fatter, fruitier again, with several sour fruits that give it an interesting side. Grapefruits, sour apples, rhubarb perhaps… Also some melissa water, not-too-ripe grapes… It’s rather unusual, getting greener and greener minute after minute. After ten minutes it’s almost grapefruit juice. Finish: quite long, lemony, a little earthy… This could be a margarita, in a way. Fun stuff. Comments: fun stuff indeed. Rather unorthodox, but fun. SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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September 29, 2014 |
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The unlikely duos, Glenlivet 50 vs. Glenfarclas 47 |
This little session is dedicated to Roel. I'm sure the angels will love your T-shirts, Roel!
We may as well have called this little session ‘high price vs. fair price’ or ‘£18,000 vs. £800’. Or bourbon vs. fino. Or decanter vs. bottle. Or whatever… |
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Glenlivet 50 yo 1964/2014 (42.3%, OB, 100 decanters)  At £18,000 a decanter, this baby may be another divorce whisky, unless the honourable buyers are committed to doing the 'marital compensation trick'. Just in case you're not in the know, that trick consists in presenting your wife of husband with some fine piece of jewellery by Cartier or Van Cleef that will cost you the same amount of money (the exact amount, that's very important). Which, rather sadly, will just double the prices of our whiskies, as you may have already found out. Oh and this Glenlivet was matured in an ex-bourbon cask. Colour: gold. Nose: the first thing that’s striking here is the fact that it’s very ‘Glenlivet’. Sounds logical but after 50 years, that’s not always the case. We’re rather around a tarte tatin that would have been made with pears and papayas instead of apples, I’d say. I also find touches of acacia honey, just a little beeswax, a light spiciness (sweet korma, perhaps, ginger cake), maybe roasted cashews and then more orange blossom or earl grey tea. It’s all subtle and, I have to say, surprisingly fresh. But with all very old whiskies, the devil’s in the… palate. Let’s see… Mouth: surprisingly fresh and vibrant, and certainly more ‘tropical’ than other Glenlivets. Lovely touches of oranges, ‘supreme’ pina colada, these baked pears again (not the kind of pear notes that you’ll find in young whiskies), touches of papayas and guavas, a light honeyness yet again, tangerines… What’s really surprising is the fact that there’s no ‘political wood’, I mean, you know, when the taster finds quite a lot of wood and writes that he had feared he would have found even more. Not so here, it’s absolutely not an oaky whisky. A wee miracle. Finish: and even in the finish the oak is kept at bay, as it’s rather the citrusy side that keeps singing. I even find mangos in the aftertaste. And, granted, more cinnamon. Comments: light, clean, fresh, complex, subtle, elegant… In short, miraculous. Yes a Rolex Lady would work as well. SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Glenfarclas 1966/2013 'Fino Casks' (50.5%, OB, casks #4194, 4195, 4197, 1444 bottles) This little baby was bottled in December last year but it’s only going to be available in the coming weeks. It should be 47 years old if I’m not mistaken. Fino was unusual at Glenfarclas, where oloroso was/is the norm as far as sherry’s concerned. Oh and the price will lie around £750-800, which sounds pretty fair these days. I mean, very fair. As for the marital compensation trick, you may not need any. In case you do, may I suggest three Hermès scarves? Colour: deep gold. Nose: for a start, marmalade. The finest marmalade. Great but a tad disappointing because of the relative narrowness of the first nose. But then… there’s an avalanche of smaller, more complex, more tertiary aromas. Those would include chartreuse, wormwood, iodine (is that the fino?), walnut liqueur, vin jaune (no wonder), old roses, patchouli, eucalyptus, tangerines, almond oil, ale… The whole remains very clean, with that marmalady structure that keeps it focused. Perfect. Mouth: exceptional arrival, spicy and zesty at the same time. Again, marmalade with a little white pepper. And then, chartreuse jaune, orange liqueur, a funny herbal zestiness (angelica? Kiwi jam?) as well as walnuts again, but less than in the nose. I find the sherry rather discrete. Finish: very long and always spicy/zesty. The oak feels a little more than in the Glenlivet, but the spirit’s structure is fatter so balance is kept. Marmalade with pepper and wasabi or horseradish. Comments: I find this absolutely superb. To tell you the truth I had lower expectations because I had already tried a bottle of 1966 fino that was excellent, but not quite as stellar in my book (88-ish). SGP:661 – 92 points. |
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Today: JAZZ. Performer: Yusef Lateef. Track: Nayaz. Please visit his website and buy his music... |
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September 26, 2014 |
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The Unlikely Duos Number Three |
I have to say I find this set-up fun, I may go on for quite a while. |
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Glen Elgin 29 yo 1985/2014 (45.6%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 122 bottles) In theory, Glen Elgin can be stellar, but we’ve also got duds in our glasses. Let’s see… Colour: pale gold. Nose: a pretty typical waxy honeyness that can also be found in Glen Ord if I’m not mistaken. I’m not against that. Old wardrobe, beehive, a drop of engine oil, leather, a touch of earth, half a touch of plasticine, some menthol (Vicks), a trace of tar (new tyre, in fact)… All to my liking, no dull ‘modern’ nose at all. Mouth: it’s surprisingly light – not weak at all of course – but it grows on you, with some white chocolate, banana skin, cough syrup, After Eights and always this wee waxiness that works so well and ads body and texture. Notes of hay wine, do you know that? They make it in the Vosges Mountains and it is… and acquired taste. Finish: much longer than expected, maltier as well, with notes of strong Trappist beer (the blackish ones) and again, a little mint. Comments: carbonnade flamande in a bottle. Google is your friend, my friend. SGP:461 - 87 points. |
Good, which sibling? Another Glen Elgin? Too easy… |
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Glenallachie 9 yo 2004/2014 (50.7%, The Whisky Mercenary, Maltlover #1, Alex Agnew) I have to say I haven’t understood much of the stories behind this neat little bottling. Nothing to do with Spiro Agnew, I guess… Colour: gold. Nose: ho-ho, it reminds of some ultra-young Aultmores. There’s more fudge than in fudge – including the fudge they’re selling to tourists near Eilean Donan Castle. And shortbread, white chocolate, custard, Ovaltine, Mars bars, millionaire shortbread… Well I’m sure you see what I mean. And it’s really likeable. With water: a fresh spiciness coming through. Root beer and tonic water plus maple syrup and gingerbread. Unusual and pleasant. Mouth: bigger now, always all on fudge and caramel, but the wood’s spices are making up for that side, and make the whole more complex. A kind of bourbon made out of a 100% malted barley mashbill, perhaps. With water: no, there’s some rye as well. What’s this? In any case, it’s fun fun fun. Finish: long, spicy, rooty and nutty. Reminds a bit of aged potstill vodka. Comments: modern and good. I repeat, this is modern and good. SGP:462 - 82 points. |
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September 25, 2014 |
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The Unlikely Duos Number Two |
We’ve got quite a few new Special Releases yet to taste, but instead of having the ‘sure bets’ (such as the 30yo Caol Ila) we’ll rather play it a bit Janssenist and first have the Benrinnes. Not that I don’t like Benrinnes, but indeed, the name’s a little more... unlikely. Opinions opinions. |
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Benrinnes 21 yo 1992/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 2892 bottles)  Benrinnes in full sherry mode, fasten your seatbelts! And get your knives ready… Colour: full gold – not that dark for 100% sherry. Nose: bang, bang, bang. Old style malty rawish roughy meaty oily malty style. Yes I’ve written ‘malty’ twice. It’s quite aggressive but two other aromas come to my mind, beef jerky and marmalade. Some would have said ‘it’s evocative’. With water: hazelnuts come out, and the liquors made thereof by the Italians. Oh, and Nutella, tar, liquorice rolls, chocolate, ‘mineral’ sulphur... Mouth (neat): really punchy, really ‘Special Release’ whatever that means, mustardy, spicy and both mineral and tarry. Fat and almost brutal, but quite surprisingly, it’s kind of elegant. Maybe that’s the chocolate and mints? With water: some spicy oak coming out, grapefruits, angelica, gingerbread, curry powder… The whisky’s lifted a bit. Finish: very long, much spicier. Another whisky that reminds me of some peppered chocolate made in Spain (not Italy this time, although I believe they make some as well.) Comments: an oh-so-Diageo bottling, both spicy/oaky and true to the original distillate. I guess when you own so many distilleries, you have to make the styles stand out! Very good stuff. SGP:462 - 88 points. |
The other one? Let’s select… oh let’s be lazy and choose another new Special Release… |
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Singleton of Glendullan 38 yo 1975/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 3,756 bottles) Wow, almost 4,000 bottles of 38 years old Glendullan at £750 a bottle, that sounds like quite… the Everest. But is that expensive or is that cheap? Hard to say, after all we should care about the spirit, not about the name of the distilleries. Imagine this would be Port Ellen or Brora… Colour: gold. Nose: excuse me, but ‘wow!’ This is like a well polished old Jamaican rum, with plenty of essential oils and organic/mineral notes, plus a good deal of tropical fruits, but without any vulgarity. This is Glendullan, it’s not Versace. Almond oils, pine, marzipan, guavas, orange blossom, camphor… This could well be a winner, but let’s add water. Mind you, 57% vol. at almost 40 years! With water (with a huge viscimation ;-) – we’ve awaken the serpent!) : superb, with thousands of herbal teas, oils and embrocations. Humidor, cigars, eucalyptus, more oils… And maybe touches of white asparagus. Mouth: strong, spicy and candied. The spices are in the front, in fact, and I find the whole a little too strong. So… With water: the spices remain (cinnamon, paprika and nutmeg) but the fruits start to come out. Citrons, oranges, pomegranates (maybe)… Also more honey and pollen. Finish: long, zestier (which is great) and, of course, spicy. Cloves, cumin and pepper. Comments: of course they would have composed a super-vatting, or nothing at all. I find this Glendullan very impressive, you just have to accept quite a spiciness in your (old) malt. Beastly. SGP:571 - 91 points. |
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Today: JAZZ. Performer: Arthur Blythe with Roots. Track: Oliver Nelson's masterpiece Stolen Moments. Please visit their website and buy their music... |
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September 24, 2014 |
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The Unlikely Duos Number One |
That is to say a first whisky chosen more or less at random, and then another one that may have some kind of connexion to the first one, chosen after I’ve tried that one (Serge, once again, that does NOT make much sense!) |
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Highland Journey (46.2%, Hunter Laing, blended malt, 2014) A brand new blended malt composed uniquely with Highlands malts, although I'm not 100% sure that does mean that there aren't any Speysiders inside, since Speyside is a sub-region of the Highlands - isn't it? Colour: gold. Nose: some youth for sure, as I find a lot of sweet barley and sweet beer in this mix, as well as a fresh maltiness combined with overripe apples and plums. Zwetschkes, for example, or juicy ripe greengages. I really enjoy this freshness, it’s got something of a Californian IPA (says the guy who just discovered those this year.) Mouth: well in line with the nose, with good power and a zesty/nervous mouth feel. Plenty of fruits and, indeed, a bit of a firm waxiness that suggests ‘the Northeastern Highlands’. Well, there’s nothing in the Northwest anyway – as far as distilleries are concerned. And bags of fresh malted barley, white pepper and, again, sweet beer. Finish: good length, full of youth, fruity, malty and slightly yeasty. Comments: I like it. It’s young, it’s a bit raw, but it’s a very pleasant journey – yet it’s not totally trippy ;-). Close to the distillate(s). SGP:451 - 80 points. |
Good, let’s select… Well, something completely different, bearing the name of a blender… |
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The Famous Grouse 27 yo 1986/2014 'Commonwealth Games' (46.4%, OB, Glenturret, 1800 bottles)  This is well a single malt from Glenturret. I have to say we haven’t heard much about the Commonwealth Games in France – well, strictly nothing – but something funny may have had happened there according to some Scottish friends. Hope that’s not related to this whisky… Colour: gold. Nose: great! I mean, I like these rather steely notes that are very ‘Glenturret’, this shoe polish, the ink, the carbon paper, then the bitter oranges, the whiffs of ‘clean’ mud, the papayas… Very singular, very different. Mouth: yeah, it’s well a ‘different’ malt. Imagine a blend of calvados and coconut liqueur. I’d imagine some newish American oak has been involved at some point. Then cider, mead, sweet mustard, sweet oak, and again, this feeling of shoe polish. Finish: quite long, on marmalade and pepper. And shoe polish. Comments: certainly good stuff, pretty ‘different’ considering it’s a kind of touristic malt. Oh and it seems that it’s rather a 27 instead of the 28 years on the label. But who cares? SGP:451 - 83 points. |
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Today: FUNK. Performer: good old War. Track: Keep On Doin'. Please visit their website and buy their music... |
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September 23, 2014 |
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Strathmill and Strathmill |
Time for a slightly more obscure name for a change, with two newish Strathmills. The older one’s much lighter in alcohol, so we’ll have it first if you don’t mind, in a pretty unorthodox way… Oh and I’ve just checked that I’ve only tried 22 different Strathmills until this very day! Booh! |
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Strathmill 1975/2013 (42.1%, Malts of Scotland, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS 13047, 212 bottles) Colour: gold. Nose: a rather beautiful nose, relatively discrete but in an ultra-classic ‘un-sherried Speysider’ manner. So we’ve got overripe apples aplenty, some wild yellow flowers, touches of banana skin, a spoonful of honeydew, some custard, and then whiffs of crushed mint leaves and maybe a little eucalyptus. A little freshly sawn pinewood too. Mouth: the oak’s more obvious, which is quite normal at this ripe old age. Quite a lot of tea, herbal teas, cinnamon, white pepper, nutmeg. Some bitter chocolate too, liquorice wood, maybe a little chewing tobacco (or rather these little bags that they have in Scandinavia.) Pear drops, perhaps? Juicy fruits? Finish: of medium length, on herbal tea plus a little honey and walnuts. More liquorice wood in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s the nose that’s quite splendid. The palate is starting to show its oaky side. Mind you, this baby’s more or less 38. SGP:361 - 85 points. |
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Strathmill 25 yo 1988/2014 (52.4%, OB, Special Release, 2700 bottles) At £270, it isn’t cheap, but it’s not horrendously expensive. Cough, cough, now, it’s not Port Ellen either… Funny ‘Gatsby’ design. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite the opposite of the 1975, with much more toasted oak, Ovaltine and coffee. Maybe even a little chicory. In fact, it’s one of the maltiest whiskies I’ve ever nosed. And cornflakes! Mocha! Cappuccino! Quite a breakfast whisky, I’d say. With water: more fruits, around oranges and ripe gooseberries, but the malty side remains. Touches of menthol. I really like these pretty compact and focused noses. Mouth (neat): sweetened coffee and Mars bar (no, not deep-fried) plus more cornflakes than in a Kellog’s tri-pack bundle (buy two, get one free like.) They’re honey-coated cornflakes, I have to add. Funnily enough, I also find these notes of eucalyptus that were in the 1975’s… nose. Solid body. With water: same style, only rounder, and once again more oranges come through, together with a few Christmas spices. Gingerbread. Finish: of medium length, with a touch of spicy new oak (pencil shavings) and always a lot of malt. Ovaltine! Comments: the 1975’s nose was rather more impressive, but the 1988’s palate was way above that one. Can you deep-fry whisky? There has to be a way… SGP:451 - 88 points. |
| Pete McPeat and Jack Washback |
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Today: JAZZ FUSION. Performer: Kazumi Watanabe. Track: Naima. Please visit his website and buy his music... |
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September 20, 2014 |
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A Birthday Session, 1960 in Martinique, Scotland and Japan |
| It's my birthday today. For this special occasion I decided to choose three spirits that were distilled in my birth year. That, I agree, doesn’t make much sense, as it’s only a number, but I also wanted to select three very different aged distillates, for once, while keeping some kind of coherence, which will be that common vintage, 1960. Other than that, well, this is just a normal session! |
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Habitation Saint Etienne 1960 (45%, OB, Martinique, +/-2013) This baby was distilled at the original Habitation Saint Etienne, which got closed in 1988. The brand’s still in use, and even alive and kicking, but it’s been ‘squeezed’ as HSE. There are many great bottles under that name, by the way, but the spirit can’t be exactly the same as the original, unless it was distilled before 1988. Please note that this rhum was probably poured into inert containers (demijohns or bottles?) some time in the 1980s or 1990s, so it might have aged only for around 20 years. Probably for the better if you ask me, the rhum was lying in La Martinique’s tropical climate. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: an extreme smoothness, the whole being extremely delicate, elegantly fragrant, with some sultanas, touches of ylang-ylang, some honeysuckle, oriental pastries and then whiffs of old humidor as well as hints of dried figs and dates. Keywords: elegance and mellowness. It’s not very sugarcane-y, having said that, and one could have mistaken it for some old cognac. Remember, old spirits tend to converge! Mouth: the oak feels, and it starts grittier than expected, punchier as well, with a faint grapey side (cognac again.) The good news is that that all that tends to mingle and to become smoother, with raisins again, dried papaya slices, a tiny touch of mustard or even wasabi, then more bitter chocolate. Some tannins for sure. Strong black tea. Finish: quite long, drier, oaky and chocolaty, but always with some raisins that are the guardians of smoothness in this context. I love the hints of black olives and liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: a superb nose and a palate that tends to be a notch too oaky for me, that’s an old story as far as… old spirits are concerned. But it remains a very great old spirit for sure. SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Macallan 1960 (80°proof, OB, Campbell, Hope & King, Rinaldi Italy, +/-1975) A famous series, all whiskies being 15 years of age, although that was not always advertised. I’ve tried quite a few vintages from 1946 to 1963, all ex-sherry wood, but I had kept the 1960 for this special occasion. Now’s the time. Colour: dark amber. Nose: both the resemblance and the differences are striking. Did they use to add a bit of rum into Macallan at CH&K? Of course I’m joking, what’s similar is the ‘old humidor’ side as well as the dried fruits, while what’s obviously different is the slightly steely profile, the whiffs of roasted malt, the notes of toasted cake and the chocolate. Also the wood smoke that arises after one minute. More globally, this is obviously drier; I’d even say it’s both drier and less emphatic than many other vintages. The raisins have been burnt here. Mouth: wider, fuller and more ‘immediate’ than the rum, and without any noticeable oakiness. It’s typically old Macallan, in fact, with this sherry that does not taste like plain sherry at all, and that brings many dried fruits, from figs to raisins and from dates to prunes. No meatiness here, no gunpowder, no grapey notes, rather those fruits plus some tobacco, some fresh fruits as well (ripe bananas, perhaps) and then just one drop of cough syrup that brings even more complexity (a little wormwood, aniseed, mint, sloe, juniper…) Impeccable. Finish: long, rather round, with some chocolate, marmalade, maybe cherries in kirsch, figs… Fresh oranges in the aftertaste lift it. Comments: one of the whiskies that converted many people to malt whisky. No wonder! Even if other vintages have been even more stellar in my opinion… SGP:562 - 92 points. |
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Yamazaki 1960/2003 (56%, OB, Japan) I believe this baby used to be the oldest Japanese single malt when it was launched, before being dethroned by both Yamazaki 50 yo and Karuizawa 1960. Yamazaki, as you probably know, is Japan’s oldest whisky distillery (although there are rumours of even older, so pre-1923, much smaller long-gone distilleries.) Colour: dark red amber. Nose: one can feel that this one’s spent much more time in wood, because its rather varnish and even acetone that first reach your nostrils. But as usual, those notes do get mellower, leaving room for a lot of tobacco, polished wood, roasted chestnuts and then many dried fruits and chocolates. Becomes more and more chocolaty over time, and tertiary as well. Ham, mushrooms, old Bourgogne, humus… Quite superb! With water: even more superb and incredibly complex. Marzipan, old books, old oils, sesame oil, cedar wood, a touch of caraway, turmeric, earth… A fabulous nose indeed, but with old whiskies, that doesn’t say anything about the palate. Mouth (neat): again, the oak feels, but what’s really striking is this massive coconut, there’s more coconut than in a coconut! That comes from the oak again, of course, and I have to say I’ve never tasted such a profile before. Tannic coconut milk. Not too sure this time… With water: rather curious! Coconut-and-menthol flavoured black tea, I’d say. Almond oil as well, liquorice wood… Finish: long, tannic, always with a lot of coconut and some bitter chocolate. Very cocoaty (excuse me?) Comments: I found the nose totally impressive, probably one of the greatest noses ever once the varnish had vanished (good one!), but in my book, the palate was rather too oaky - even if that was high quality oak. SGP:471 - 87 points. |
(Muchas gracias, Cyril, Emmanuel and Diego) |
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Today: DISCO JAZZ or birthday party music? Performer: Les McCann with Houston Person. Track: don't fear the disco beat in Road Warriors. Please visit Les McCann's website and buy his music... |
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September 19, 2014 |
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New Port Ellen Special Release and compadre |
| You may remember that this year’s Brora Special Release was WF’s 10,000th review – old news, already – and since there’s no old Lagavulin this year, the only other old SR peaters this year are the obligatory Port Ellen and a Caol Ila 30 years old. Hum, not sure Diageo will like the wording ‘obligatory Port Ellen’. Anyway, let’s try that one today, beside another 1978, a rather rare one that’s not often to be seen… because our friends the Swiss seem to have quaffed it all, more or less. Grüezi! |
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Port Ellen 1978/2002 (46%, Signatory Vintage, Silent Stills, for World of Whisky St Moritz, cask #5347, 302 bottles) Some sister casks haven’t been much to my liking, I had found them extremely dry and vegetal. Let’s see… Colour: white wine. Nose: well well well, it hasn’t got the immense and implacable punch that the Rare Malts 20 and 22 had, while it’s also rather un-tarry, so a bit un-PE, but on the other hand, it’s a very coastal one, with plenty of sea air, iodine, oysters and all that. Also touches of white fruits, yellow peaches, green melons, greengages, and just hints of candy sugar. A very civilised Port Ellen, fresh and clean. Too clean, perhaps? Mouth: very different. Not much Port-Ellenness either, but there is more punch, around ‘oyster juice’, pepper, ink, cardboard and then plenty of ashes. And then, once again, a little candy sugar. So I find it good, for sure, but it’s rather forgettable as a Port Ellen. Finish: rather long, a little acrid, with notes of leaves and grass. A strange touch of mustard in the aftertaste, that comes together with a little plasticine, almost plastic. Comments: indeed not all Port Ellens are/were utterly stellar. SGP:466 - 83 points. |
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Port Ellen 35 yo 1978/2014 (56.5%, OB, 14th Special Release, 2,964 bottles) Let’s try to forget about the heavy price tag, and focus on the juice! After all, should you test-drive a new Ferrari, you’ll focus on the engine and the chassis (and the brakes!) more than on its price, won’t you. But is this a Ferrari or is it a badged FIAT? Let’s see… (apologies, I’m known for my very crappy car analogies, but I just can’t help.) Colour: gold. Nose: its quite brutal! At this pace, they’ll still have ‘young’ PE by 2050, unless the stocks are almost depleted indeed (which they are since around 2000 anyway, ha!) After that initial burst of alcohol and creosote, many smaller elements are falling into place, one after the other. Turpentine, eucalyptus, tincture of iodine, seaweed, almond oil, pink grapefruits, tobacco smoke, chartreuse, coal, walnuts and apples… But rather less tar than expected. With water: some very nice notes of white wine (sour) and brine, humus, fir smoke, damp wool, garden bonfire… Mouth: triple bang! It’s huge, it’s massive, it’s sharp at the same time, and it’s almost… young. Quite some smoke, a little fish oil, grapefruits and lemons, smoked tea, liquorice, kippers, green tea. A lot of lemon zest, with something rather green, pungent, tannic… Grape pips? Cider apples? Not an easy baby for sure, but it’s not a peat monster. With water: the greenness is even more obvious. Liquorice wood, grass, green apples, kippers, maybe a wee touch of chlorine (nope, I’m using my usual Vittel), grapefruits, a little salt… And bags of apple peelings. Finish: long, rather on cider apples, smoked fish… The greenness remains. I have to add I’m finding little tar in the aftertaste, just a little – better late than never! Comments: we’re very close to last year’s release, as far as I can tell, this one being maybe just a notch rougher. On the other hand, it’s a very moderately tarry PE that’s probably less ‘immediate’ than earlier versions. Oh, and quality remains very high, of course, even if I have the feeling that the Caol Ila 30 will be (even) more to my liking. Just a feeling (yeah yeah). This new PE should come out around mid-end October. SGP:366 - 91 points. |
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September 18, 2014 |
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‘Old’ ones at 35 years of age |
| I think I forgot to tell you that we’ll only select high flyers for these celebratory sessions. I’m meaning 90+, unless I fail. But no need to tell you why I’ve decided to pair the two babies we’ll have today. I agree this does not make much sense once again – the idea’s abysmally weird, in fact - but I had though it would be fun to taste two ‘old Old’ of very similar ages. A double O, in a sense, but sadly no Stromness! (whisky historians and lovers of oldies will underst… oh forget!) |
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Old Pulteney 35 yo (42.5%, OB, 2014) This new old Old Pulteney comes from a combination of bourbon and sherry casks, and is relatively fairly priced (at 600€ - gosh I'd never have thought I'd write that.) Colour: ancient gold. Nose: this is subtle, starting with whiffs of quince cake, overripe apples, oranges and eucalyptus leaves, as well as a little patchouli and ‘old suitcase full of old papers.’ Very delicate, and indeed it reminds me of last year’s 40 yo – or was that the year before? I also get distant notes of sauna, or would that be a Moroccan hammam? And then more cassis/blackcurrant, both buds and berries, maybe coated with milk chocolate. All subtle, bordering fragility, maybe… After fifteen minutes, much more brioche, honey, cake, praline, raisins… Mouth: who said it would be fragile? The arrival is rather perfect, fruity, almost youthful, without any straight oakiness. Rather notes of oranges again, cooked rhubarb – or jam, light golden raisins, a little honeydew and mead… At the spice department we’re rather having cinnamon and a little caraway, while the sherry’s becoming a little more obvious, with some kind of spicy walnut. The mouth feel is more than acceptable despite the low strength and the old age. Finish: good length, maybe a notch drier and just a wee bit bitter towards the aftertaste, but that’s the old age and that’s normal. A salty touch. Comments: not tired, this one, and it’s certainly less ‘fragile’ than the 40yo (and yet the 40 yo was much higher in alcohol.) Only complain, it’s too easily quaffable at 600€ a bottle! Really excellent. SGP:551 - 90 points (but 91+ without the finish/aftertaste). |
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Old Fettercairn 34 yo 1975/2009 (57.2%, Whisky-Fässle, Bourbon hogshead) The only other +/-35 yo whisky I have that I've not tasted yet and that starts with the word 'Old'. No I haven't gotten any 35 years old Old Rhosdhu! Having said that I remember two Fettercairns 1975 by The Whisky Agency that have been pretty brilliant (both WF 91.) Colour: deep gold. Nose: a different beast for sure, but oddly enough, there are similarities. It’s not one of these whacky old Fettercairns at all, and although there is a little engine oil and maybe traces of a kind of green pitchiness (geee), the vast majority consists in fruits, both fresh and as jams. Lemon, plums and green melons, I’d say. Rather tobacco in the background. With water: wax and grapefruits, in a Clynelishian manner. Mouth (neat): very big, and quite strange, in a good way. We’re well at Fettercairn’s – Fettercairn’s finest. Plenty of walnut and apple skins, quite a lot of menthol (mint lozenges), then more ginger, tonic water, Campari and… smoked bacon! Beautifully weird. With water: more gingery, cinchona-like flavours plus bitter oranges and almonds. Finish: long, lemony, waxy, almost resinous, with a dry aftertaste on chlorophyll and paraffin. Comments: vive la difference! SGP:562 - 91 points. |
PS: again, don’t be surprised by the high scores, that’s these sessions’ whole point! |
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September 17, 2014 |
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Four Ardbeg through the ages |
| We may take it a bit easier for a little while, that is to say not post new sessions each and every day. Not that I feel I need some kind of recovery (even if after a tremendous Lagavulin-and-jazz-and-friendship-fuelled weekend on Islay, I may be suffering from a serious case of Islay blues), I simply feel the need to take it, well, yeah, a little easier after our 10,000th whisky review. |
Some kind of whisky holidays, if you like. |
But meanwhile, back at the ranch… let’s do some Ardbeg! I’ve got the new Supernova to taste (ex-bottle, not ex-blogger mini) and this is the problem with NAS whiskies, you just don’t know where to sneak them in a b****y vertical line-up! So since earlier batches have been issued in 2009 and 2010, let’s assume it’s rather older than 11, while we’ve got a 11 years old to taste indeed. Well, I believe that one may make for some kind of solid foundation, or benchmark, or reference… |
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Ardbeg 11 yo 1975 (86 US Proof, Duthie for Corti Brothers, Sacramento, +/-1986) That is right, young old Ardbeg, probably ex-refill. I couldn’t tell you whether the purifier was on or off when this baby was distilled, or simply out of order (I know, pure anorak stuff), but it’s always great to be able to taste legendary distillates at a young age, that is to say when the spirit’s still got a lot to tell. Let’s see… Colour: pale white wine (hurray!) Nose: pah pah pah pah pah! It’s a very pure and very crystalline Ardbeg on the nose, certainly not a fatty one and certainly not a peat monster either. Lemon and oysters, I’d say. Well, at least for a few minutes, because it’s gaining momentum over time, with more marzipan and, above all, more and more diesel oil, broken branches and ashes. All in all, it’s the purity that’s impressive here. Oysters anyone? Fishing ground. Mouth: how lovely! Once again, it starts delicately, but rather on some kind of smoky fudge this time, although lemon and oysters are well there in the background. And then, there, high-impact peat smoke, pepper, ashes, even a little chilli, liquorice wood, salt - and even touches of mustard, somehow ala Brora 1972 if you see what I mean. And bitter almonds. The texture is pretty oily, if not absolutely fatty. Finish: quite long, a bit acrid, and certainly very ashy and smoky. Love the chilli-and-lemon-and-fudge (and smoked salmon) signature. Even more smoked fish in the end of the aftertaste. Comments: it hasn’t got that very peculiar herbal and tarry fruitiness that these Arbegs tended to develop after more years in wood, and I wouldn’t say it’s extremely complex spirit, but then again, only 11 years. What a distillate! I think it was better than the official 10 that used to be available around the late 1980s. SGP:358 - 92 points. |
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Ardbeg ‘Supernova SN2014’ (55%, OB, Committee Release, 2014) The very heavy – and very second degree, I’m sure ;-) - spacey marketing tends to put off quite a few whisky lovers these days, and we’re even starting to see more and more mockery here and there, but that can’t change the whisky itself, can it? Anyway, I had liked the first Supernova a lot back in 2009 (WF 89), and the 2010 version even more so (WF 90.) This new 2014 has more sherry in it, according to the distillers. It might also be older, but I’m not too sure. Not sure at all… Colour: white wine (hurray!) Nose: sweet Vishnu, we’re close to the 1975! So much for ‘old’ vs. ‘new’ Ardbeg, I have to say this baby’s well within the same lineage, with a similar peatiness, similar lemons and similar oysters. And ashes, peat smoke and all the rest. Granted, it’s rather less complex, a bit fatter and a notch less crystalline, but that may come from the higher strength, let’s see… With water: they diverge now. This is more brutal and certainly more medicinal. A lot of antiseptic, then pinesap and this mega peat that smells just like… The distillery. I just couldn’t be against that. Love this nose. Mouth (neat): it’s sweeter than the 1975, for sure, with more limoncello for example, but once again, the peatiness and the ashes are similar. Having said that the sharpy spiciness that was in the 1975 is almost absent here, there’s this limoncello instead. With water: this feeling of swallowing a Cuban ashtray at 4 in the morning. An ashtray into which someone would have also poured the remainder of a glass of mojito! Finish: very long and while the ashes and peat remain huge, it tends to become a tad sweeter. Is that the sherry? Comments: love this big Ardbeg. Less complex than the 1975 for sure (that wasn’t hugely complex either), but it’s got ashy style and peaty substance (wot?) Certainly not just a gimmick. SGP:459 - 90 points. |
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Ardbeg 1998/2014 (58.2%, Malts of Scotland, Amazing Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 14027, 222 bottles) Cool, this baby came with George Clooney and Brad Pitt on the label ;-). Colour: light amber. Nose: different for sure. More dry, chestnuty, chocolaty, meaty, with some ham, some dry tobacco, some heavy liquorice, some tar (I remember some ex-oloroso Port Ellens by DL), some brine, gherkins, beefstock, then kiwis… A touch of manure as well, horse sweat… And yet, all that remains rather elegant, no mean feat! With water: yup, it’s fresher, kind of cleaner, with spearmint, new leather, tealeaves… and maybe rather chicken stock this time. And bacon. You can tell your mum (or the police) it’s soup you’re having… Mouth (neat): a metallic touch in the arrival, as well as bags and bags of dried figs and caramel. Very thick, but not cloying, balance is preserved. Orange marmalade, thick quince jelly (luv’ that), and then a growing feeling of pipe tobacco juice. Raspberry ganache. Not as meaty as on the nose, by far, and rather sweeter and even fruitier. Mind you, they seem to have tamed a 1998 Ardbeg! With water: no, wait, the spirit strikes back. The sherry becomes drier again, liquoricy and leathery, while Ardbeg is taking the lead – and it’s more Led Zep than Vivaldi. Finish: very long, much spicier. Ginger and sweet mustard plus some kind of smoked caramel. Saltier aftertaste – which was expected. Comments: at first I had felt that the sherry could hinder the spirit from singing, but that was not the case, after all. Great. SGP:558 - 92 points. |
You say more sherry? Here we go… |
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Ardbeg 20 yo 1993/2014 (57.1%, A.D. Rattray for Jurgen's Whiskyhuis, sherry hogshead, cask #1732, 142 bottles) This one’s older, twenty’s already a ripe old age these days. Colour: palish gold. Nose: first, there’s much less sherry than in the MoS, and second, this is much more brutal at first nosing, with more acrid leaf smoke, concentrated white wine - or sauce, such as verjuice/verjus sauce. The great, great news is that it tends to become mezcaly – or agavy - which is something that I adore. Could also be young Jamaican rum! Also almonds and plasticine, but no rubber. A different take altogether. With water: you may start to look for the phone number of the nearest anti-maltoporn brigade… Fab nose! It’s smoky mezcal and heavy-style young rum galore. Mouth (neat): terrific attack, both rounded and sharp. I know, that doesn’t make much sense but the agave-syrup-coated mouth feel blends well with the sharpish lemony peat, if you see what I mean. And there’s a fair share of salt and brine. Maybe a tiny anchovie? And a drop of antiseptic? With water: you may call the anti-maltoporn brigade now. Ashes, herbal liqueurs, salt, almonds, kippers, samphires, wax, ink, mezcal again… Finish: endless, sharp, chiselled, ashy and smoky. Charmingly unsexy. Comments: it was a close tie between the 1998 and this one, and I wouldn't say one is ‘more better’ than the other, it’s just that I love great mezcal. I know, I know… SGP:468 - 93 points. |
No whisky under 90, that was some session! All in all, I’m feeling that Ardbeg will always remain Ardbeg, as long as they stay clear from any unlikely ‘wine technologies’ that would bore even a very novice hence very enthusiastic Franco-Japanese sommelier. |
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Best
malts I had these weeks - 90+
points only
Ardbeg ‘Supernova SN2014’ (55%, OB, Committee Release, 2014)
Ardbeg 1998/2014 (58.2%, Malts of Scotland, Amazing Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 14027, 222 bottles)
Ardbeg 20 yo 1993/2014 (57.1%, A.D. Rattray for Jurgen's Whiskyhuis, sherry hogshead, cask #1732, 142 bottles)
Ardbeg 11 yo 1975 (86 US Proof, Duthie for Corti Brothers, Sacramento, +/-1986)
Singleton of Glendullan 38 yo 1975/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 3,756 bottles)
Glenfarclas 1966/2013 'Fino Casks' (50.5%, OB, casks #4194, 4195, 4197, 1444 bottles)
Glenlivet 50 yo 1964/2014 (42.3%, OB, 100 decanters)
Macallan 1960 (80°proof, OB, Campbell, Hope & King, Rinaldi Italy, +/-1975)
Old Fettercairn 34 yo 1975/2009 (57.2%, Whisky-Fässle, Bourbon hogshead)
Old Pulteney 35 yo (42.5%, OB, 2014)
Port Ellen 35 yo 1978/2014 (56.5%, OB, 14th Special Release, 2,964 bottles)
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