Upper-Class Tomatin


October 7, 2022

Little duos, today Upper-Class Tomatin

Giant mangos being harvested at Tomatin around 1976 ;-) (Photograph Tomatin)

We'll keep discussing and arguing about any real vintage effects in whisky for ages, as well as about the actual reasons why some years are particularly legendary. What's sure is that '76 was probably the Latour '45 of Tomatin, while we'll remember that at that time, Tomatin was the largest malt Distillery in Scotland. But first, a wee '89…

Tomatin 32 yo 1989/2022 (44.9%, Skene, hogshead, cask #100468)

We've already tried several excellent malts by Edinburgh's pretty discreet Skene, a lovely company where they seem to be busier with bottling good whiskies than with mailing out tons of senseless press releases. Please note that we haven't got anything against press releases in themselves. Colour: white wine. Nose: pure dry chenin blanc, really. Chalk, greengage, citron, honeysuckle, elderflowers and acacia blossom. Whiffs of fresh vanilla pod in the background. Beautiful and charming nose, all we'd need now is a bunch of langoustines. Mouth: it's incredible that we're finding more dry white from the Loire in there, maybe a pretty grand Savennières? Some lemon and orange drops, touch of mentholy oak, lemon tarte (with meringue!) and then, this time again, green plums, greengages, not-too-ripe mirabelles… Finish: medium, tart, with a very pleasant greenness. Those greengages again. Tiny echoes of older wood in the aftertaste. Comments: flowers and plums all over the place, bordering perfection.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Tomatin 45 yo 1976/2022 'Warehouse 6 ' (46%, OB, hogsheads, casks #32+33, 350 bottles)

This rather pricey baby (north, sometimes way north, of 4K€) is a vatting of two hogsheads. I believe we've already said what we we're thinking of the vintage 1976 at Tomatin (and at other ueber-fruity malt distilleries). Colour: gold. Nose: the fruit section at Fortnum & Mason's, as we sometimes say. Or multi-vitamin fruit juice. Or a large basket of tropical fruits, including wild mangos and ripe passion fruits, plus several kinds of bananas and pineapples. This is simply irresistible, in the league that already gathers 1960s Bowmore or Lochside, not to forget the best batches of Laphroaig 10 (1970s bottlings). Legends. Mouth: the question was, 'wouldn't it have become a little oaky?'. The answer is 'no'. Same combination of tropical fruits, plus a floral side (those elder and acacia flowers again, perhaps as beignets). In truth this needs no further literature, it is simply perfect fruity whisky. Finish: amazing zesty, citrusy finish, with limes, oranges and tangerines, then various zests in the aftertaste. Comments: extraordinary. You could add some high-class rum and come up with the most glorious Ti'punch ever, provided money's no issue.
SGP:751 - 92 points.

Check the index of all Tomatin we've tasted so far