Two extremities of French whisky


September 30, 2022

Little duos, two extremities
of French whisky

Old French whiskies! There are tons of new malt whisky distilleries in France these days (well, distilleries that are making whisky, which is not exactly the same concept), but French whiskies that are +/- 15 to 20 years old are extremely rare and surely stuff of pioneers. Let's have two of them…

Eddu 21 yo 2001/2022 'Graal' (43%, OB, France, 304 bottles)

This is buckwheat whisky, which Eddu, a.k.a. Distillerie des Menhirs in the far west of Brittany have pioneered in the very early 2000s already (they had released their first buckwheat whisky back in 2002). Buckwheat a.k.a. black wheat or sarasin is a very traditional 'quasi' or 'pseudo' cereal in Brittany, with the best crêpes made out of it (yum!) Frankly, some are making whisky out of rice, so why not buckwheat. Yeah, I know rice IS a cereal. What's more, we've already tried some excellent Eddu in the past. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we're wandering between old malt and old cognac territories, with this peachy sweetness, honeys, raisins, ripe melons, ripe damsons, then vanilla and brioche, a floral side (dandelions), perhaps a little mead, beeswax, old firwood, mirabelles, macaroons… I find it lovely and extremely civilised, as there are strictly no obvious woody tones. Mouth: once again you could believe this is old cognac, and we shall not complain. Raisins, more honey and beeswax, orange zests, tarte tatin, preserved peaches, dried figs… and still no obvious tannins. Extremely seductive. Finish: medium, still very fresh and fruity, with touches of agricole rum this time (really) and raisins/honey in the aftertaste. Comments: an awesome spirit. Oh and I'm finding it funny that while just everyone in Charentes is also making whisky these days, some Breton whiskymakers would have managed to make a wonderful 'cognacqy whisky' using some pseudocereal. Great fun, very superb drop, very well done.
SGP:641 - 88 points.

A short drive from the west of Brittany to the north of Alsace (that's only around 1,000 kilometres after all…)

Uberach 2004/2022 (46.5%, LMDW, Version Française, Banyuls cask)

So this insane Alsatian malt whisky has first spent a lot of time in an ex-Banyuls cask (heavy sweet wine), was then reracked into small virgin casks, and then let to rest in demijohns since 2017. So technically, I believe it is a 12 or 13 years old. Oh and the colour alone is a little frightening. Colour: dark mahogany. Really. Nose: tar and black Corinthian currants, stewed rhubarb, morello cherries, old Burgundy (say Clos Parantoux by Henri Jayer – joking but thank god you don't have to pay when quoting a wine), a lot of walnut stain, other herbal decoctions (peach leaves), and then a growing sweet fruitiness that really lifts it, around blackberries and cassis jelly. Some gamy notes in the background, grouse, wild boar, pheasant, umami, old soy sauce… Mouth: what a concoction. More walnut stain, pipe juice, a triple ristretto, black chocolate (like 85% cocoa), meats, more wild boar pâté, roasted chestnuts, black raisins, bouillons and broths, cold cuts, bresaola and Grisons meat, beef jerky, perhaps even Turkish 'pemican' (forgot the Turkish name)… Of and a lot of tobacco. Finish: long and a little leathery – this was to happen. Black 'Gauloise' tobacco in the aftertaste. Comments: whether this is totally legal or not, I wouldn't be too sure. Of course it is, great fun, well done Master Jean!
SGP:572 - 86 points.