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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 6, 2022 |
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Longmorn
2005 to 1969 |
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There will be some Glenlivet soon, but let's first have a few Longmorns. The officials don't find their ways easily, but we do have some quasi-OB by G&M in lieu of the traditional apéritif…
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Longmorn 2005/2020 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Distillery label)
G&M cranked up the volume here, as the former 2005, bottled in 2019, was at 43% vol. Good move, loud applause. By the way, we used to call these series 'licenced bottlings' but the new denomination is 'Distillery label', however you won't find a picture of the Distillery on those labels. Just to make things clear (more or less). Colour: gold. Nose: very malty, very much on pot ale, bitter beer, the usual walnuts, then fudge and a thin slice of pumpernickel, allspice or rather as-el-hanout. Whiffs of old wine cellar, with some mustiness. Old hessian bags lying in a corner. Mouth: a feeling of kriek beer at first, muscovado, then cooked beer, cherries, malt, some mentholy toffee and a wee feeling of old wood. Some chlorophyl and some tobacco. Finish: a little short, more on walnut cake. Artichoke liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this baby pretty dry and bitter and believe earlier, lighter vintages had been a little easier. Very good drop though.
SGP:361 - 82 points. |
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Longmorn 15 yo 2004 (60.4%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #7.246, 'Conversations and ruminations', 157 bottles)
This baby was finished in a refill rum cask. Colour: white wine. Nose: you do feel a pretty varnishy rumness, certainly not unpleasant. That almond-smelling glue that we were having at school in the 1970s, does it still exist? Rather wonderful notes of nougat, custard and white chocolate. With water: more sweet rum coming out, but do not expect Hampden or Worthy Park. Orange squash, earl grey, cane syrup, sourdough and grist. Mouth (neat): tight, very almondy at first (marzipan), then with a little acetone and sweet varnish once more. With water: grassier but very good, with a tarry side in the background. Finish: medium, well between the two worlds. Comments: the word 'conversations' was spot on. The rum chatting up the malt.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Longmorn 16 yo 2003/2020 (59.8%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Gathering, #7.243, 'Twinning', 396 bottles)
This time it was finished in first fill PX, so let's be extra-careful. Colour: full gold. Nose: acetone and varnish this time again, then the largest and moistest panettone ever, old Bénédictine, and indeed proper old PX (as in PX, not as in whisky finished in PX-seasoned wood). Very pleased this far. With water: great fun, with gentian, leaves, tobacco, old tea, Smyrna raisins, rancio, cherry liqueur, potpourri… I find this nose extremely nice indeed. Mouth (neat): bold, creamy, extremely on nougat and, once more, panettone and bergamots. A little cinnamon liqueur, perhaps baklavas, orange blossom water… With water: perhaps not as majestic as on the nose, but these oranges; marmalades and pickled ginger work well and in sync. Finish: long, a tad grittier and leafier. Bean curd, mochis… Comments: success, once more. One of the nicest PX finishes I tried lately.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
Hold on, here, we do have a quasi-OB… |
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Longmorn 48 yo 1969 (44.4%, La Distillerie Générale, 2nd fill hogshead, cask #22717, 372 35cl bottles, +/-2018)
La Distillerie Générale is actually an in-house independent operation within Pernod Ricard, where they harbour some lovely cognacs, rums and, indeed, malt whiskies from their portfolio. They are rather hard to find and, I believe, exclusively for the French market. I'd add that we've already tried quite a few stupendous 1969 Longmorns, many from G&M's racing stable. Colour: full gold. Nose: that point where propolis, chlorophyl and teas are about to take over, but have not yet. I believe you could say that's an ideal moment. Subtle pine resins, fir honeydew, certainly patchouli, lime tea, then citron jam, late-harvest riesling, glazed chestnuts (marrons glacés)… A really fabulous nose, while we had rather tried some old sherry monsters as far as Longmorn 1969 was concerned. Mouth: same comments, word for word. That very particular moment… Marmalade, putty, marzipan, teas, mint, eucalyptus, camphor, juicy sultanas, earthier and more balsamic honeys, orgeat, fig jam… And old cognac! Finish: a tad drier, getting a little piney, which is normal, even if it loses one or two points here. Comments: perhaps a little more fragile than the sherry monsters from similar vintages and ages, but it is gloriously subtle. Gainsbourg would have added, 'and erotic'.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
Perhaps a chaser, for the road. Let's check the older boxes… |
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Longmorn 21 yo 1992/2014 (52.1%, Acla Selection, Bourbon Hogshead, 144 bottles)
An older bottling from our distinguished neighbours Switzerland. Colour: gold. Nose: I remember those orchardy, meursaulty, mineral, flinty batches. Apples, plums, pears, acacia honey, peanut oil, chalk, a tiny handful of Haribo bears, preserved mirabelles… Everything's in order here. With water: apple and quince jelly. Mouth (neat): perfect firm fruits, greengages, granny smith, green pears, starfruit, all that spread with chalk. With water: did I mention apple and quince jelly? Finish: rather long and totally on orchard fruits, plus lemon and vegetal oils in the aftertaste. Very fresh signature. Comments: just 'very good' and totally au naturel. Hoppla.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Check the index of all Longmorn we've tasted so far |
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