Glen Moray back on the table


Mars 16, 2022

Glen Moray back on the table
More and more a joy to try Glen Moray. I believe we're having more and more anyway, unless that would be a consequence…

Glen Moray 18 yo (47.2%, OB, +/-2021)

We've already tried the 18 three years ago and it didn't disappoint. Time to try a newer batch (possibly from 2022 actually). Colour: gold. Nose: malty bread, nuts, praline and mashed pumpkin, with a dollop of chestnut honey. Exactly as I remembered it (just checked my older notes, ha). Mouth: the strength works very well. Nice marmalade, praline again, marzipan, with an excellent maltiness and notes of bitter ale, then a lighter, albeit just as bitter fruitiness that works very well. Wee touches of grapefruit skin, perhaps. Finish: rather long, with a wee touch of bitterish oak that's pleasant in this context. Very Speysidey. Firm, straight malty aftertaste. Comments: very good, just as I remembered it. Glen Moray's become a very solid drop, I think.
SGP:451 - 86 points

Glen Moray 2008/2021 'Barolo Finish' (52.9%, OB, UK exclusive, Warehouse 1 Collection, 853 bottles)

Glen Moray 2008/2021 'Manzanilla Finish' (54.6%, OB, UK exclusive, Warehouse 1 Collection, 1240 bottles)

Hurray, Manzanilla! I've always believed that both universes were perfectly synchronised and that no clashes are ever to be feared. Trivia: manzanilla is a fino that's aged in or around Sanlucar de Barrameda. The name manzanilla characterises the place where the wine matures, not where the grapes are grown (although of course, they have to come from the Sherry triangle). Colour: gold. Nose: right up my alley. Soft walnuts and ground mustard, chalk (chalk is paramount), dough, a little fresh parsley and cress. With water: wonderfully chalky and mustardy. Love this (as I always say in these kinds of cases, bring the langoustines!) Mouth (neat): the green walnuts feel a tad 'amplified', with more skin than flesh, you could almost call this wee dram 'Glen Moray Pasada'. Quite. Also lemon, more cress, leaves… With water: it may lose a part of its focus once water's been added. More grassy and leafy bitterness, perhaps, and less fresh walnuts. But it remains excellent. Finish: long, tight, tart, even slightly acidic (in a good way). Comments: I'm a fan, even if this was only a finishing. Could we have Vin Jaune next time, I'm sure owners La Martiniquaise have got the right contacts. Or even savagnin (not ullaged/ouillé, naturally).
SGP:371 - 87 points

Glen Moray 2008/2021 'Barolo Finish' (52.9%, OB, UK exclusive, Warehouse 1 Collection, 853 bottles)

Glen Moray 1998/2021 'Barolo Finish' (52.9%, OB, UK exclusive, Warehouse 1 Collection, 853 bottles)

This one from three casks. I've never been a huge fan of Nebbiolo in my whisky, but I know some trustworthy reps within the company prefer this Barolo over the Manzanilla. Colour: gold with discreet salmony hues. Nose: gone are the days of ueber-fast flash-finishing in just any red wine cask! Indeed this is not un-nice (but the manzanilla any time), with red berries that behave and rather no undesired leafy tones (geranium, tomato or fig leaves). A good clafoutis and rather raisin rolls, plus funny touches of overripe bananas. With water: the whisky's maltiness is having the upper hand. Good butterscotch and toffee, plus a little raspberry ganache. Mouth: tighter, with some Szechuan pepper, stewed peaches and cherries. Rather more red-wined on the palate. With water: a little pine resin and blackcurrant buds, reminiscent of classic dry young Barolo indeed. Finish: long, grassier at first, then on clafoutis and Szechuan pepper again. Comments: not my favourite style but I need to bow.
SGP:561 - 85 points

Well done Glen Moray! Perhaps one or two IBs now…

Glen Moray 13 yo 2007/2021 (56.9%, Oxhead Whisky, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #5757, 218 bottles)

No wine this time, shouldn't we expect croissants, shortbread and beers? Colour: straw. Nose: I'm sorry, but I'm finding croissants, shortbread and beers. Plus custard and pancakes, as well as some white chocolate. With water: more on leaves, green teas, cinchona, apple peel, weissbeer… Mouth (neat): lovely sweet bourbonness, pilsner, banana cake, tarte tatin, vanilla cream, jelly babies, then a little green pepper. A breadier background (wholegrain bread). With water: this time water makes it sweeter and more on Haribo allsorts. Some greengage jam as well, which I've always juts cherished although it's getting hard to find any in the shops over here. Where is this world going to? Finish: medium, clean, barley-y, with some banana cake in the aftertaste. Comments: just excellent, as expected. Average in the very best sense of that word.
SGP:551 - 86 points

A last one…

Glen Moray 16 yo 2005/2021 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask, refill barrel, cask # HL 18663, 322 bottles)

This should be even more distillate-driven. Colour: white wine (indeed). Nose: more kirsch than pears, light vanilla, table grapes (chasselas), fresh cassata and panettone (hurray), scones, melon… With water: immaculate fresh malt whisky, with nothing in the way. Nosing a fistful of ready-to-harvest barley in the field, at sunset (come on.) Mouth (neat): barley eau-de-vie, really. Sweet beer, ripe mirabelles, bergamotes… With water: perfect malt whisky. Barley bread and pastries all over the place. Finish: medium. Perhaps a tiny marshmallow, plus a hoppy side. A tiny glass of IPA in the aftertaste. Comments: reminds of what Stuart Thompson (Glen Moray manager, then Ardbeg) once told me, that Glen Moray was his favourite distillate ever. Indeed, over 'A' (he was at 'A' back then). I would suppose the statute of limitations ran out but remember both distillers used to belong to the same company back then. Brilliant, almost exceptional fully-natural drop, well done Hunter Laing.
SGP:551 - 88 points

Check the index of all Glen Moray we've tasted so far