Another day of rums


February 20, 2022

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Another day of rums
There's more and more rums and brandies crossing the threshold of Whiskyfun Towers, but I've long decided to only have those on Sundays. This is Whiskyfun and it'll remain Whiskyfun. Let's find a 'funny' apéritif…

Naga 10 yo 'Siam Edition' (40%, OB, Indochina (?), +/-2021)

This funny one reeks of colonialist-nostalgic marketing. I mean, Siam has become Thailand in 1939, and Indochina (Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia) was disbanded in 1954. I find this even worse than all those fake Caribbean brands that would sing the praises of various unlikely 'heroes of the revolucion' everyone's forgotten about. Anyway, this 'might' be some light Thai rum, possibly from SangSom. The Khmer-inspired packaging is lovely, I have to say. Colour: gold. Nose: no, it's relatively fine albeit very light, with some orange syrup, candy sugar and melons. Mouth: no sugar bomb (check), very light, not unpleasant, with oranges and a little sugarcane juice. A few cls of Frappuccino (apologies). Finish: short, orangey, relatively clean. Comments: a very light drop that would be in the same category as that of the entry-level Bacardis, Havana Clubs, Brugals and all that. I had thought this would be much worse and am believing that it would stand some 46% vol.
SGP:530 - 76 points.

Novo Fogo 3 yo 'Batch 1' (41.2%, That Boutique-y Rum Company, cachaça, Brazil, 550 bottles, +/-2021)

Oh but indeed, this is cachaça, so rum made from fresh cane juice. Some are very industrial, others being very artisanal. Some exotic wood are also used, such as, in this very case, some kind of teak called amburana. We've always wanted to learn a lot more about cachaça, but I'm afraid we never got around to it. One day, perhaps. Colour: straw. Nose: this is plain caramel liqueur at first sniffs. Someone would have roasted Mars bars and thrown a little camphor into this whacky mix. Some tar too, and some liquorice. Plus a little rubber and pinewood. Mouth: I cannot not think of tequila, but this has more burnt notes, deep-roasted raisins, some rubbers, plastics perhaps, more caramel, some salty and sour herbs, rubbery brine… It does feel a little 'bacterial'. Finish: rather long, saltier yet, resinous, sour, and indeed a little bacterial. Sweet cheeses and burnt olives. Comments: great fun and rather uncharted territories to us, even if we've tried a few cachaças before. Great fun indeed.
SGP:372 - around 82 points.

Since we were having cachaça…

Sapucaia Velha 10 yo (40.3%, Cadenhead, Malternative Release, 414 bottles, 2019)

Cane juice distilled in pot stills. Colour: white wine. Nose: good fun this time again. Say pastis or ouzo, plus olive oil and fennel liqueur. Some fermenting fruits, peaches, melons, bananas… Some good esters in there. Mouth: a tad flattish and rather on vegetables, gherkins, crushed olives, sorb, green asparagus, artichokes, bamboo shoots, artisan mead… Finish: shortish, on salted vegetables, capers, gherkins, lemon juice, and a funny drop of fino. Rather sweet mustard and mead in the aftertaste. Comments: much less caramel in this one. Should anyone ever try to distil olives, this might be kind of the end result. I'm sure this would kill at +/-46% vol.
SGP:462 - around 82 points.

That's enough cachaça already.

L'Arbre du Voyageur 3 yo (53.5%, Chantal Comte, La Mauny, Martinique, 3000 bottles, +/-2019)

This one by some very engaging, sympathetic and humble people. Colour: gold. Nose: not a lot happening at this point. Some aniseed, pure cane juice, we're pretty close to good white agricole, in fact. Ylang-ylang. With water: not too sure it would swim well, I'm finding some metallic touches that do not work too well in this context. Zamac. Mouth (neat): good, a tad rough and liquoricy, with some earthy liquorice allsorts and a good olive-y cane-iness. We're at the bone of agricoleness. With water: gets bone-dry, very earthy, extremely cane-y. Finish: long, dry and very grassy. Crazy cane juice. Some soapiness and just cologne in the aftertaste. Comments: let's be honest, this is probably one of the purest and most challenging sugarcane-led rums I've tried in recent years.
SGP:362 - 85 points.

Rum Orator 2016/2019 (66.9%, Orator, Paraguay, barrel #2, 90 bottles)

Some crazy Swiss bottling at a murderous strength. Colour: gold. Nose: windshield washer fluid and olive oil aged in American oak. Well, that's what I'm getting at this, err, murderous strength. With water: Gruyeres cheese, black olives, carbon paper and shampoo. Quite an adventurous drop indeed. Mouth (neat): Paraguay? Was this made by the good folks who are also making Fortin? It is very extreme, brutal, salty, full of plastics and new electronics. In short, difficult, but remember (cough), almost 67% vol. Assassins! With water: pear juice and engine oil, plus toffee and caramel. Not a classic combo, but it's got its charms. Finish: someone's been smoking pears, apparently. Williams pear eau-de-vie aged in olive wood. No, really. Comments: great fun, but what was that, exactly? Do they make estery rum in Paraguay?
SGP:462 - around 83 points.

Foursquare 9 yo 2011/2021 (62.3%, Wealth Solutions, Barbados, The Colours of Rum, N°6, cask #19, 246 bottles)

This baby was aged in the tropics for 5 years, then in Mother Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: typical, dense on the one side, lighter and more columny on the other side. Good easy pastries, with vanilla and the Frenchest croissants. With water: cornflakes. It's to be wondered if this wasn't 100% ex-column FS. Mouth (neat): the columny, lighter side of Foursquare feels first at such high strength, I would suppose the more oily parts need water and oxygen to shine out. In other words, the strongest, the lightest. Pancake sauce and jelly babies. With water: no, it's really light, easy, sweet, on cereals, Fruit Loops… Finish: medium, sweet and rather thin. Comments: one of the lightest Foursquares I've tried. Very good drop, but I wouldn't say there is much backbone. Not a proper malternative, in any case.
SGP:530 - 80 points.

Clarendon 37 yo 1984/2021 (62%, Thompson Bros. & The Auld Alliance, Jamaica)

Marque was MMW and this is pure pot still rum. It was kept under reggae for 34 years and met with bagpipe rock and roll only three years ago. What a shock. Naturally, you could as well call this Monymusk. Colour: red cedarwood. Nose: appropriately acetic, acetone-y, and just totally varnishy. Rotting pineapples and, indeed, cedarwood, nail polish, and gherkins/olives. With water: dried jujubes and figs, which is gentler, we agree. Praline, drop of moscatel, a bit of ham. Mouth (neat): extreme tannins, black raisins, pine oil, salmiak, teak and glue. Sends shivers down your spine. With water: diesel oil, black olives, carbon, cedarwood shavings, and the blackest black chocolate, 90% cocoa or more. Finish: long, bone-dry, salty, with carbon dust, artichokes and Himalayan-monastery black tea. The aftertaste is extremely dry and bitter, at any strength. Comments: a rather provocative bottling. I mean, you can't quite sip it like that, you have to fight it. Holy featherless crow, what a bitter monster!
SGP: 272- 85 Points?

No other rum could ever 'climb over' that ueber-extreme Clarendon, so we say good night/good day, see you soon. Unless, hold on...

Rums, a bonus session

First, the usual apéritif at easy strength…

Mount Gay 'Black Barrel' (43%, Barbados, bourbon casks, +/-2020)

Not the first time were trying this little Bajan. I used to find it a tad thin (around WF 79). Having said that it's got nothing to do with W. Grant's 'Black Barrel', which used to be grain from Girvan if I'm not mistaken. Colour: gold. Nose: in the style of a lighter agricole, with nice cane-y notes and a few floral tones (ylang-ylang, orange blossom) on top of a little candy sugar and bananas flambéed. A little fudge and liquorice too. Mouth: good and easy, starting well on sugar cane and even tiny touches of grassy esters, but losing steam while some saltiness would appear at the same time, which I find a little frustrating. Finish: rather short, on salted orange liqueur, should anyone ever try that. Comments: not exactly watery but you cannot not think of Foursquare, whilst Foursquare has more knack. Unchanged.
SGP:541 - 79 points.

Since we've mentioned agricole…

Bellevue 23 yo 1998/2021 (55.2%, Nobilis Rum, Guadeloupe, 252 bottles)

Speaking of Foursquare, this is actually a single blend of vesou (cane must) and molasses distilled in a column, so not rhum agricole. I know, nothing to do with Foursquare, actually. Colour: deep gold. Nose: rather immense and intense, with the kind of esters that you would rather find in Jamaica or Trinidad, if you see what I mean. Now it's not a '500+' at all, naturally, but I just adore these petroly and olive-y notes, as well as this acetone, fresh paint and putty, new 33rpm, assorted rotting fruits, and just fresh-squeezed (or rather crushed) cane juice. With water: gets grassier, more herbal, kind of gentler. Mildly gentler. Someone's inadvertently poured diesel oil over nestle, sorrel and green bananas. Mouth (neat): Incredible. Aniseed and salted liquorice just all over the place, plus black olives and tobacco dust. With water: getting chalky. Malt enthusiasts special: it would be a Ben Nevis of rhum of some sort. Finish: long, this time with nots of oranges. Otherwise liquorice, olives, tar and brine. Comments: I was having it at 90.5 (oh come on) but this is a good day. Always check the BBs (Bielle and Bellevue).
SGP:463 - 91 points.

Since we keep mentioning Foursquare…

Foursquare 2011/2021 (61.7%, Wealth Solutions, Barbados, The Colours of Rum, No.11, cask #20, 239 bottles)

So, most probably a self-blend of ex-column and ex-pot still molasses-based rums. It spent 5 years in the tropics, the rest in Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: much gentler, more on vegetal oils, pumpkin, peanut, sunflower… Some honeysuckle and elderflowers, praline fudge, macchiato and custard. Indeed, gentle. With water: quite some varnish escaping from your glass. Cane juice, sesame oil, cut hay… Mouth (neat): very typical, with crushed bananas and a tiny touch of pear, bonbons, Werther's Originals and just plain Scottish fudge flavoured with oranges. With water: a little pine resin at first, then a perfect averageness, which is an asset here. Well it is not average, it is balanced. Finish: medium, with soft liquorice in cappuccino and fudge. A wee drop of bonbony varnish in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps a tad young? Otherwise just excellent.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

I think we've mentioned Caroni too, no?

Caroni 23 yo 1998/2021 (56.8%, The Whisky Jury for Spring Spirits , barrel #45, 288 bottles)

Colour: deep gold – amber. Nose: smoke some Werther's Originals using beech wood and add a touch of juniper and you'll recreate this. Congrats. With water: new tyres and scuba diving suits, plus a boy-size pack of strawberry drops. No, this is not Port Ellen 20 yo. Mouth (neat): some sweet rubber this time, and smoked Swiss cheese indeed. This is very unusual, it reminds of when we used to throw cream cheese (La Vache Qui Rit) on the bonfire when I was a boy-scout. Or was it when I was a corporal in the army? Well I'm joking a bit, this is much better. Big rubbery and smoky chocolate and orange combo. Barbecued Jaffa cakes? With water: classic salty and herbal rubbery unfolding. Sweeter rubber, school glue… Finish: long, saltier. Dry green olives kicking in, probably Spanish (come on). Liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: a tad unusual or even deviant, but as good as it gets.
SGP:363 - 90 points.

To la Martinique…

Rhum J.M 1999/2021 (43.6%, OB for Kirsch Import, Martinique, bourbon, cask #180007)

It's fab to see more J.M single casks popping out here and there. Bring out the Neissons! Colour: amber. Nose: acetone, capers, ammonia, olives, rotting bananas, pine resin, then Thai basil, coconut sauce and nougat. Extraordinary, flabbergasting nose, only to be experienced in the best agricoles of good age. And in Martinique, Doudou. Mouth: the oak feels this time and at times you wouldn't even be sure this is not cognac or armagnac. No once you get past these heavy resinous and mentholy teas, you'll find many small herbs and flowers, chamomile, rosehip, peppermint, sorrel, borage… Finish: medium, getting medicinal. That's the 'old' wood speaking out. Comments: some excruciating dilemma. The nose was out of this world, while the palate was about-to-start-to-get tired (IMHO, as we used to say when the Internet was still civilised).
SGP:561 - 87 points (nose easily 92 or more).

To the other side please…

Rhum J.M 2015/2021 (55.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Martinique, bourbon, cask #200376)

Colour: red amber. Nose: this was to be expected, we're finding some bourbon this time (Pappy and stuff), varnish, roasted sesame and peanut, caramel… With water: nail polish remover and brand new Nikes at first, then fern and fig leaves, green bananas, 'a Saturday morning at IKEA's' (happy divorce my friend!) and a newly-build sauna (welcome back). Mouth (neat): a little dry and grassy, with some acridness, oversteeped black tea, tobacco, conifer saps, green banana skin… Actually, I like this, in case you haven't noticed. With water: strong teas, some tannicity, more banana skins… Finish: long, still varnishy and grassy. Cough syrup and just menthol and fir resin and cedarwood in the aftertaste. Comments: a feeling of young bourbon from Martinique. Absolutely excellent, but five or six years are five or six years (woo-hoo, S.!)
SGP:371 - 85 points.

Caroni 22 yo 1998 (62.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Trinidad, 1st fill bourbon barrel, #R13.3, 'Havana, Madagascar and Tahiti', 267 bottles, +/-2021)

What's the link between Trinidad-and-Tobago and 'Havana, Madagascar and Tahiti', unless you're a stamp-collector? Colour: gold. Nose: marvillioso, old-school, thick and heavy, with indeed, maybe, they are right, something Cuban. Old dark Havana Club or old Santiago de Cuba. Other than that, this lighter Caroni is still ridden with smoky chocolate and tarry coffee. With water: something acetic coming out, this is well Caroni. Varnish lemon oil, thyme and leek. Mouth (neat): so good. Pinewood, tapenade (olive paste), aioli (garlic paste), anchoïade (anchovy paste), some smoky toffee, tar, rubber, varnish, lemons, plastics, glue, ink… With water: ink, bitter almonds, menthol and 'chewing plastic'. Finish: very long, more herbal. Superb tarriness in the aftertaste. Comments: just great, but Tahiti?
SGP:363 - 90 points.

Perhaps the previous one…

Caroni 22 yo 1998 (62.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Trinidad, 1st fill bourbon barrel, #R13.2, 'Ready Made Marmalade', 267 bottles, +/-2021)

Colour: gold. Nose: similar, obviously, just a little gentler and rounder, lighter in a way, less petroly, more on toasted oaky etcetera. With water: what 'gentler'? No, this is tight, lemony, acidic, with some tarry rubber and 'new sneakers and iPhones'. Great modern society, no? Mouth (neat): back to more acetic tastes, green lemons, varnish, mezcal… With water: tar coming out, all is well. Finish: long, a little tarrier, but still in the style of the 'lighter' Caronis. Comments: I think I liked R13.3 a little better, for it was bigger. Great selection by the very honourable SMWS in both cases, anyway. IO even think I can find the 'Ready Made Marmalade' if I 'taste closely'.
SGP:352 - 88 points.

Perhaps a last Caroni before we call this a session…

Caroni 21 yo 1999/2021 (65.7%, Distilia, The Golden Age of Piracy, Blackbeard, cask #197, 228 bottles)

I had thought the golden age of piracy was right today, just ask Bezos, Sundar or Jack Ma… Anyway! Colour: amber. Nose: oh, mashed potatoes with black truffles and olive oil! Then eggplants and smoky coffee, engine grease, candy sugar, a little corn syrup, caramelised onions… With water: tight and green. Someone's smoked Brussels sprouts and called that 'rum'. A curious maltiness and more mashed potatoes. And more truffles. Mouth (neat): smashing, bone-dry and ultra-tight, almost Ardbeggian. Sublime smoky coastalness. Terrrrrific. With water: oh wow. Millimetric and vertical, petroly, tarry, wonderful. Finish: long, tarry and rubbery. No escape. Comments: perfect in the tarry style. I think we've already mentioned middle-aged Port Ellen, have we not?
SGP:373 - 92 points.

(Merci Pierre-Alexandre and Nicolas)

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far