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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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January 25, 2022 |
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Always a joy, I would sometimes like these obscurer sessions better than doing 'nineteen Ardbegs' or 'thirty-seven Macallans'. Who said I'm always exaggerating, who? |
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Allt-a-Bhainne 12 yo 2008/2021 (49.7%, Chapter 7, Islay cask finish, 298 bottles) 
We sometimes call this set-up 'in-cask blending' or 'pre-disgorging blending' but naturally, the whole whisky industry will disagree. By the way they called this one a 'monologue' but I'm sure that'll be a dialogue. Colour: white wine. Nose: well, this is not exactly diluted Laphroaig and to be honest, it doesn't quite feel like it's been botoxed, we're rather on some slightly paraffined grist, porridge, then melon and grapefruit skins, then the usual limoncello with a drop of chartreuse. A wee sour touch in the background (baby bottle, baby's milk). Mouth: the thing is, this is pretty good, if a little unlikely at this stage. It is an unknown style, both mashy and with tarry notes, vanilla yogurt, a curious ashy smokiness and a wide range of root vegetables, including our beloved turnip and celeriac. One could call this one 'Baldrick's Tipple'. Finish: medium, a little uncertain, with the Islayer make this is a little 'dusty and dirty'. Comments: pretty experimental. Some sides are very good, some others interesting, and other yet a little challenging. As long as they would tell you on the bottle, I'm fine. Pretty much un-scorable anyway, we're lacking references.
SGP:363 - 80 points. |
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Allt-a-Bhainne 20 yo 1995/2017 (46%, Murray McDavid, Benchmark, cask #130002, 219 bottles) 
Fabtastic, they were still having this at MoM's. Now whether this would be a 'benchmark' or not, we don't know and we shall see… Especially since this was finished in claret wood, namely an ex-Talbot barrique. Gasp, we may need air… Colour: apricot. Nose: metal polish, old coins, bell pepper (that's the St Julien's cabernet), then strawberry yogurt and just fresh Swiss cheese. Now it improved a lot after some breathing, with notes of cherry clafoutis and battelman that are right up my alley. A true Madeine de Proust. Mouth: sour wood, sour cherries, more yogurt and sourdough. We shall wait, let's check what they have on Netflix… Of course we're joking. This wee Doritos-whisky remains a little unlikely on the palate, with some sour oranges with some chlorophyl and some rubber, but it is not all awful, as long as you like young cabernet-sauvignon. Remember, wine, including the best clarets, age in their bottles, not in their barriques where they are kept only for one or two years, sometimes three. Finish: long, spicier and even more on bell pepper and strawberries. Comments: interesting, sometimes even good, but remember than 'in the good old days' and unless I would be wrong once more, the claret barriques they were having in Scotland were very often transport casks, not 'château' barriques. Anyway, a funny Allt-a-Bhainne.
SGP:561 - 78 points. |
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Allt-a-Bhainne 23 yo 1997/2020 (52.4%, Whisky Nerds, barrel, cask #102589, 114 bottles) 
These lovely labels always remind me of my schooldays. I suppose that was the idea in the first place. Colour: pale gold. Nose: there, cakes, barley, fudge and toffee, roasted peanuts, honey cake, tarte tatin, maple syrup. Need I say more? With water: mosses, fern, earth and mushrooms. A+ development here. Mouth (neat): call me a traditionalist if you like, but this is another league, even if there are some unlikely touches of gunpowder, flints and even thick sour beer flying around in the arrival. You could believe this was ex-sherry but it was not. More tarte tatin, a family pack of speculoos (that's 25 kilos in Belgium), black nougat, high-level Turkish dried figs (can't beat those), dried dates as well… I find this totally excellent. With water: even better, even if it would become a little dry and sour here and there. Very malty. Finish: long and indeed, very malty. Ovaltine/Ovomaltine and Guinness, with a drop of Cointreau. Comments: absolutely excellent. No time for double-checking but I'm sure it's become one of my favourite Allt-a-Bhainnes. Now, such a small outturn…
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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