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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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February 15, 2022 |
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A jazz trio from Dunyvaig
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Well, actually, I mainly wanted to try the latest Distillers Edition, but naturally, we won't be stopping there and may manage to find one or two other interesting Lagavulins.
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Lagavulin 2006/2021 'Distillers Edition' (43%, OB, lgv 4/510)
Boy the 1979/1997 was possibly the greatest 'finished' malt whisky ever made by Man (if we're not taking into account malts that were just a tad pushed, rejuvenated, or re-racked in similar more active woods and all that). I believe recent vintages have become a little less interesting but it's true that they are living under the shadow of the 16 (not to mention the 12). Colour: gold. Nose: phu! (excuse me?) This terrific feeling of being there, on location, at the distillery. I believe Lagavulin really is THE malt whisky that's most got this kind of impact. Even if this is probably not the grandest Lagavulin, it's still a Lagavulin. Chocolate, coffee, barbecue, charcoal, fireplace the next morning, black olives. Rather not un-nice! Mouth: good but a little too leathery for me. Really a lot of lapsang souchong (did anyone ever do a lapsang souchong liqueur?) then leaves, ginger, bell peppers, burnt raisins, dry molasses… Certainly less sweet than I remembered it. Finish: long, pretty good, saltier. More leather, smoke, ashes, tar and coffee. Turmeric in the aftertaste. Comments: a wee feeling of cold coffee-schnapps here and there.
SGP:456 - 84 points. |
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Lagavulin 19 yo 'Feis Ile 2019' (52.6, OB, sherry-treated American oak casks, 6000 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: some leafiness upfront, cherry stems, some rum perhaps, then roasted raisins and pecan pie. A little allspice, leather, sour herbs, capers… You do feel that it's been a wee tad 'seasoned' and indeed we always prefer the purer ones, but there's no quibbling to be done, it's lovely, salty, maritime, perhaps just a tad rubbery. When tend to prefer when they come out on the tarry side rather than on the rubbery one. With water: gets fresher and tighter, with the distillate having the upper hand. Awesome whiffs of manure, horse saddle, eucalyptus… Mouth (neat): impeccable on the palate, despite all the spices. Pad Thai and menthol, liquorice, marmalade and the expected green walnuts. With water: still a wee bit dry and leafy but the oyster sauce and the feeling of menthol cigarettes win it. Finish: long, on classic ashy cinnamon and tarry bay leaves. Or something like that. Sooty bitter cocoa and old walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: the question remains the same, does such a brilliant distillate really need some heavyish sherry treatment. By the way, missing Feis Ile! Maybe we'll do a mini-ceilidh with clootie dumplings and 'Westering Home' by Norma Munro on the stereo at WF Towers.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
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Lagavulin 22 yo 'Jazz Festival 2020' (52.6%, OB, Refill American & European Oak, 2004 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: and voilà. A much tighter, cleaner (yet rather fat) expression, briny, with all the paraffin you would expect, lamp oil, plasticine, oysters, salty manzanilla, tarry ropes and all that. Touches of fresh butter and engine oil, new plastics straight from Ali's… With water: more points. Splendid passion fruits (hints) on a perfect 'peat'. Reminiscent of some older expressions of Lagavulin (such as 'the 15 yo ceramic') Mouth (neat): citrus chiming in, zests, bark, smoked fish, oysters, kippers, drops of citron liqueur and limoncello, some oiliness, touch of horseradish, stewed parsnips too… With water: perfect, old-school, rounder, complex. Seashells. Finish: long salty, briny, totally coastal. Some coal tar. Comments: the oak was a tad prominent at first but we're really splitting hairs here. Swims extremely well, never forget to try these with a little water, after having first tried them neat. Two more points in my book with a little water. Brilliant Lagavulin, almost refreshing. Well, not really, but at least was it more refreshing than the other two. Because 'It don't mean a thing if it ain't refreshing'. Not sure I've got that ducal quote right…
SGP: - 92 points. |
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