
April 28, 2021

Two Spanish Taliskers, one very old

I know we said we'd post more Arran today but since we're on the western islands, there's also a rare new official Talisker 43 years old that I just wanted to try immediately. But as is customary, or should I say mandatory at WF Towers, we'll have to first find a proper sparring partner. And since the new 43 is about travels from Spanish islands, let's choose a Distillers Edition, so an amoroso finish, that I haven't tried yet. Such as the 2009…

Talisker 2009/2019 'Distillers Edition' (45.8%, OB, TD-S: 5VH)

I had really enjoyed the 2010 a few weeks ago. The finishing in 'amoroso' always sounded odd, but it is not. Amoroso is a fairly light-cream-like blend of dry and naturally sweet sherry (PX, Moscatel) that seems to be pretty much out of fashion these days. Just not in Talisker. Colour: gold. Nose: I've always had the feeling that Diageo took it easy with this amoroso thing, keeping the influence to very civilised proportions. Indeed, it is this salty, briny smoke that first comes out, while some mustardy, slightly curry-like sweet notes would rather appear after a good twenty seconds. Make that two. Then walnuts and tobacco, for good measure. Impeccable. Mouth: very good. We call this 'sauce à la diable'. Simmered mustard with honey and cream, more or less. Notes of leather, green walnuts, rather burnt raisins, Maggi sauce, and naturally, 'peat'. Finish: long, very salty now. This is Talisker, no doubt. The trademark pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: the sweeter Talisker that's never been that 'dulce'. I've always liked Talisker al natural better, but would never refuse a dram or two of DE.
SGP:465 - 86 points.

Talisker 43 yo 'Xpedition Oak' (49.7%, OB, American oak hogshead, 1830 bottles, 2021)

Talisker 43 yo 'Xpedition Oak' (49.7%, OB, American oak hogshead, 1830 bottles, 2021)
There should be some story to be found about this mysterious 'Xpedition', let me first check that out… Right, correct, this baby was finished in casks that included wooden staves that had traversed the Atlantic, from the Spanish Canary islands to Antigua, on the deck of adventurer James Aiken's yacht. Just ten casks have been subsequently made and then blended away. Well, as they say, 'they really did something' here, it's not just a tribute bottling straight from Wikipedia. Like, a tribute to Cristopher Columbus or to Vasco de Gama. Or Magellan. Let's try it… Colour: gold. Shows restraint. Nose: oh! The story was nice, really, but the juice is splendid, or so it seems this far. You'll find these creamy touches of bergamot and citron jam, perhaps even yuzu, with luminous notes of forest herbs, heather, moss in the morning, lemongrass, Thai basil, then oysters and their wee buddies the winkles, a little beeswax and quince jelly, plus probably some fresh kelp . This is all very complex, extremely elegant, and superbly fresh. I believe we ran out of laudatory adjectives. Mouth: no straight oak in the way (not even floated wood, ha-ha), rather zests, crystallised citrus, a few drops of Spanish Chartreuse (Spain, again), and this salty-resinous combination that often comes out of some pretty old, well, Taliskers. The freshness here is really impressive, its balance as well, not to mention the complexity and the body… Wonderful tension at 43 years. Finish: finishes are always superb in old Taliskers, really. When the salt, the softer peppers, the citrus, the brine and all elements from the sea are singing the chorus in unison. Whale songs. Comments: back to pedestrian considerations, I understand why they wouldn't have loaded the whisky itself aboard that yacht. Well, I for one would have quaffed it all during the crossing! That's right, ten casks.
SGP:466 - 93 points.

Check the index of all Talisker we've tasted so far