Today secret Islay malts


June 8, 2021

The vicarious Feis Ile sessions
Today secret Islay malts

Celebrating Islay and Feis Ile from Whisky Fun Towers, with carefully selected whiskies from most distilleries, while we're all dreaming of 2022...

Yeah, hold on, I just realised that there was a last category that we hadn't tackled yet: the secret ones! They're usually Laphroaig, Ardbeg or Lagavulin in disguise, but since I believe we've got quite a load of them in the boxes, we shall not try to play the guessing game and just taste them as we find them, in no particular order. By the way, will they ever do a 'Secret Day' at Feis Ile? Why not at the SPAR in Bowmore? ;-)

In Memory of Bessie 10 yo 2011/2021 (58.4%, Fadandel.dk, cask #LAP 224, 323 bottles)

No picture yet. Right, with a name like that and a cask # that starts with 'LAP', no need to be the new Einstein to find out about the distillery. Sometimes, bottlers would give you funny clues… Speaking of Bessie Williamson, did you see that most sadly, former manager Iain Henderson passed away last week? Colour: white wine. Nose: a bit burnt, extremely rustic, with rather bitter notes, a feeling of feints, antifreeze… I suppose that's the very high strength and shall keep some hope. With water: a little cologne, burnt Brussels sprouts and artichokes. Very rustic. Mouth (neat): very brutal indeed, raw, newmakey… Big ashes and notes of lemon drops, with a kerosene-y side. With water: I'm happy to report that we tamed it! It took a little patience and quite some Vittel, but that worked. Big peat, ham and kippers, grapefruits, and just litres of olive brine. Which would even come with proper olives, mind you. Proud of myself (what rubbish, s.!) Finish: very long, salty, with typical notes of antiseptic. Comments: I was about to suggest you poured this into your favourite hipflask, but then you'd need to carry a 1.5l bottle of water with you. Anyway, fun young Laphroaig to play tricks on some friends. Like, 'see what water does'.
SGP:367 - 85 points.

Secret Islay 11 yo 2008/2020 (56.6%, The Taste Of Whisky, 137 bottles)

Some wolves on the label, is that a clue? Not too sure… This is a blend of ex-bourbon and PX octaves, I suppose it'll all depend on the proportions… Colour: amber. Probably a lot of PX. Nose: struck matches and gunpowder, then burnt molasses, Nescafé and bitter chocolate, plus dunnage and dark toffee. With water: same-ish. Notes of moist garden peat, soot, cold empty old pipe… Mouth (neat): excellent on the palate. It's probably not exactly a nosing whisky, but these tart orange-y notes just work. Wonderfully tight homemade Andalusian marmalade. With water: a little leather and touches of lavender. Finish: long and saltier. Alpine smoked charcuterie. Comments: PX always scares me but this time it behaved, even if this is a heavy peater indeed. How many hipflasks do you own?
SGP:467- 86 points.

Heart of Peatiness 12 yo 2008/2020 (58.5%, Dramful! Malt Connection, bourbon hogshead, cask # 360046)

According to the label, this one should be good for our hearts. I'll have to tell doctors. Colour: white wine. Nose: less coastal, more on broken branches, sunflower oil, bitter almonds, engine oils, brake fluid… It is almost as if Citroën had distilled this. Quite. With water: brilliant, gravel, chalk, wool, menthol… Mouth (neat): definitely sweeter, much more on citrus, rather hinting at something made not by Citroën, rather by Diageo. Oh and remember that Diageo also own a large share of Ardbeg! With water: perfect balance citrus vs. smoke and coastalness. Some limoncello. Finish: long, sweeter and fruitier yet. This is almost a liqueur de smoke et agrumes. Comments: very, very, and I mean very good, and extremely drinkable. That's the dangerous side – so don't pour this into a hipflask!
SGP:557 - 87 points.

Islay Single Malt 8 yo 2011/2020 (49.2%, Chapter 7, Chronicle, 1st fill barrels, casks #5, 146, 147, 893 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: classic raw wool, chalk, new tweed, fresh nuts, a little shoe polish, baguette, hessian, and almond paste. Rather a lot of almond paste, marzipan… It's relatively soft. A touch of fruity olive oil. Mouth: really easy and real good. Goes down effortlessly, being a tad generic but absolutely not in the bad sense of that word. Peach liqueur, cider, a softer smokiness… Blind, I may have said Ardmore, but it is probably Caol Ila. Finish: medium, sweeter, easier, medium peated, very good. Comments: it is not complicated but it a high-pleasure young peater. I usually don't say these sorts of things but I would add that it's a perfect peater for beginners. And for seasoned enthusiasts alike. Faultless.
SGP:546 - 86 points.

84-87, that's where these young secret Islays usually sit. Let's see if we manage to break those barriers…

Islay Malt 8 yo 2008/2017 (59.8%, Whiskybroker, Mc Shelfie)

Lovely minimalistic label, makes a change. Colour: white wine. Nose: a little hot, but this oily softness with loads of cider apples and candlewax plus this rather distinctive ashiness would lead us to… south of Bunnahabhain. With water: more dry ashy smoke and soot. It lost the apples. Mouth (neat): good fruity arrival, on citrus, then ashes indeed and a little green pepper, with obvious oysters too. With water: brine and lemon juice, this rather margarita-y profile leaves little doubts. Finish: rather long, fresh, uncomplicated. More margarita in the aftertaste, plus perhaps tiny touches of pears and pineapples. That's the youth. Comments: cool and very good. It is even a little refreshing.
SGP:546 - 85 points.

Secret Islay 2006 (60%, Clan Denny for Or Sileis, Taiwan, hogshead, 330 bottles, +/-2020)

I believe there's also been a 2005 bottled at a lower strength that used to share the same roaring label. I think Clan Denny is a brand by Douglas McGibbon, which is a brand by Douglas Laing. Capeesh? Colour: white wine. Nose: tighter again, with more soot, seawater and antiseptic. But lemons are soon to pop out. Mercurochrome, camphor, ointments, creosote. With water: lambswool and lemon juice. Classic. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent, very creamy. To be honest, this is as if someone had blended Laphroaig with Caol Ila. Or mezcal with limoncello and tincture of iodine. Right. With water: you may add some rooty earthiness, but it would also get much sweeter. That's troubling… Finish: rather long, sweet, with notes of lemon fudge and a little more salt. Comments: rather an easy one again, as long as you don't forget to add good water. As always and contrarily to what brands will tell you, better too hard than too soft.
SGP:556 - 86 points.

An Islay Distillery 9 yo 2008/2018 (59.1%, Malt Musketeers, Small Batch release)

Musketeers? So this would be a bottling by D'Artagnan and compadres (Aramis, Athos and Porthos). Some fight to be expected. Colour: white wine. Nose: a very smoky one. A little metal polish too, copper, old tools… With water: raw. Mercurochrome at cask strength and a lot of metal polish. Mouth (neat): very medicinal. More antiseptics, nail polish remover, acetone and… well, that should give it away. With water: really rough. I like it but this one too would rather be a hipflask-malt. Finish: long and salty. Drinking seawater. Comments: pretty extreme. Not one that will go down too easily, on the other hand this brutality is rather spectacular. A few more years, I suppose. Still upper-middle-class peaty malt in my book. That's right, UMC.
SGP:467 - 84 points.

Islay Single Malt 27 yo 1992/2020 (48.5%, WhiskySponge, refill barrel, 293 bottles)

The WhiskySponge has a thing with René Magritte. And with great whiskies. Colour: gold. Nose: yes we've noticed this was older, and that shows on the nose. It is much subtler than the youngsters, naturally, more on mentholy herbs of various sorts, various oils as well, some fresh seashells (all kinds, really, from whelks to clams), plus these delicate carbon notes, Thai massage balm (I am not speaking from experience, just a guess), a large plate of sushi with a lot of nori, and even notes of sake. Not making that up, sake. Kampai. Mouth: lemons, smoked salmon, coriander, crab, seawater, more seaweed, lighter miso, and once again, sake. This is how all Japanese malts should taste, if you ask me, so that they would all display some Japanness. Finish: pretty long and certainly fino-y. This hasn't seen any sherry, and yet, it feels 'fino'. Clearly an asset in my book. Salty aftertaste. Comments: brilliant. Carefully selected smoky distillate at a proper age, you cannot beat this. Almost 92, but I'm afraid this is not your day, Sponge! Take this!
SGP:466 - 91 points.

Islay Malt 27 yo 1993/2020 (49.9%, Thompson Bros., 536 bottles)

Some say the Thompson Bros. have added a picture of their friend the WhiskySponge to this label. So, it is a kind of honey badger with some sponge head and wings, apparently, here pictured after its seventh jab of AstraZeneca. It takes what it takes. Colour: straw. Nose: a shier, more austere, perhaps also more elegant interpretation of 'an old peater'. Tiny grasses and herbs in the woods, a little coriander, certainly some gentian, fresh almonds, a drop of chartreuse, some wet ashes, a tiny touch of pine liqueur… (they make the best ones here in the Vosges Mountains – but of course)… And just a touch of williams pear too. Mouth: extremely good, simpler, more on straight citrus with a tropical side that may suggest this would be L (ends with a g). Drops of mercurochrome, apple liqueur, lapsang souchong and earthy riesling. As a matter of fact, it tends to become earthier by the minute. Finish: long and very medicinal now. The cat's out of the bag. Comments: beats anything recent by the distillery. Blending stocks, they said.
SGP:567 - 91 points.

I agree this is gonna get tougher, now that we've stumbled upon two well-aged wonders, but our heart remains willig and pure. Not too sure about that latter part.

Peat & Sherry (55.4%, Elements of Islay, Canada exclusive, Kensington Wine Market, sherry hogshead, cask #47, 475 bottles, 2020)

I find it pretty cool that some Canadian bottling would end up in Alsace. But it's true that we've always got special relations, since WWI. Having said that, I'll have to work on my Canadian whiskies, but I'm sure my dear friend Davin would help. Anyway, this is Scottish, not Canadian… Colour: red amber. Nose: rather oak than sherry at first, ground coffee, walnut stain, teak oil, stuff like that. Chestnut honey and Guinness. No real lace at this point, but let's go on… (by the way, do you know Alice Cooper's sweet record 'Lace and Whiskey'? Check it out). With water: wood, 'an afternoon at Ikea's', pinecones, hot chocolate, embrocations… Mouth (neat): thickish, tarry, heavy, oily and ridden with liquorice and pine-y stuff. Maybe a tad challenging, maybe rather for the great wide open, as Tom Petty would have said. With water: softer, more on chocolate and black teas. I like it better at +/-45% vol. Finish: long, on salted chocolate and lemon. There's also something Demerara-y. Comments: this heavy baby slaps your cheeks but give it some of your time and you'll become friends. Perhaps would I have named it 'Sherry & Peat' instead...
SGP:466 - 86 points.

Peat Reek 'Embers' (59.4%, Blackadder, hogshead, 285 bottles, 2016)

It's no secret that we're fans of both Black Adder and Blackadder. Let's try this 'tomato with wheels', rumour has it that it was a little extreme… Colour: straw. Nose: at the doctor's. Mercurochrome, iodine, bandages, gauze, plaster. With water: brine, oysters. Mouth (neat): makes you yodel. I went across to Switzerland , Where all the Yodellers be, To try to learn to yodel , With my yodel-oh-ee-dee. Strong salt, tart lemons, iodine, varnish, acetone. With water: I climbed a big high mountain, On a clear and sunny day, And met a yodellin' gal, Up in a little Swiss chalet. Water does nothing to it, it remains pretty rough and yodelling. Although, I have to say, some nice touches of melon and peach juice would start to balance all this madness after a few minutes. Finish: long, more syrupy, always rough. Comments: very good, just extremely rustic. Well now I'm gonna teach you, How to yodel just like me, It's easy when you're singin', To go yodel-diddly-oh-oh-dee. Just drink this.
SGP:557 - 85 points.

Images of Islay 1982/2013 'Port Ellen Lighthouse' (53.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry cask, 212 bottles)

Hold on, this was Port Ellen! I have to confess I had never taken notice, or I would have tried this baby a long time ago. Mea Culpa, mea maxima Culpa! Colour: gold. Nose: it's a lighter one for sure, I don't get much heavy tarriness, rather a little rubber (new wellies) and just sourdough and other bready notes. Leaven and seashells, plus a little gasoline. With water: acetic peat, balsamic vinegar, slightly vinegary oloroso, smoked almonds… In truth this is getting better. A fatter Islayer then any of its neighbours. Plastics. Mouth (neat): there, roots, tar, liquorice, rubber, smoked tea, bitter oranges… This time it would gather its forces. With water: there, it unfolds on coastal notes, salty resins, sweeter brine (red peppers?)… It's really getting there, becoming medicinal at that, salty, iodine-y. Looks like it just wanted to take its time. Which, as we all know, is the secret of success. Finish: long, salty, peppery and really 'something else'. No wonder the owners wanted to restart this. Comments: a belated thank you Thomas for this one! I knew it as about a lighthouse, I hadn't noticed it was about Port Ellen's. Feeling deep shame. Have I told you I just loved this bottle? I'd swear there's even some kind of terroir inside.
SGP:467 - 93 points.

Let's be persistent, you never know…

Images of Islay 'Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse' (53.2%, Malts of Scotland, 176 bottles, +/-2014)

The Rhinns? If it is peaty it is Port Charlotte. If it isn't it is Bruichladdich and it shouldn't be here. Colour: white wine. Nose: Port Charlotte. It's great to be able to try an ueber-clean one, without any wine in the way, only seawater, sea breeze, fresh almonds, grapefruit and fish oils. Pristine distillate. With water: almonds and carbon dust, rapeseed oil, linseed, crushed grape pips (not something that's really useful, we agree). … Mouth (beat): still young, as we're finding pears. Other than that, cigarette ashes and samphires over some brown bread toast. Seaweed spread. With water: awesome but you need to get the amount of water right. Too much H2O makes it sink. Finish: super good. Kiwis and rhubarb (yay) and smoked green tea. That's new to me, I didn't know that you could smoke green tea too. You learn every day. Comments: superb. Why I haven't tried these as they were coming out, I do not know. I must be very bad at this game.
SGP:468 - 89 points.

Where do we stand? In truth we could go on for a little while… Plenty is no plague.

Red Snake (59.7%, Blackadder, Raw Cask, for Taiwan, 272 bottles, 2017)

So, as I understood it, these Red Snakes are as much about crazy peat as the 'Raw Peat' are. Robin, au secours, I'm all for snakes but I'm afraid I do not understand everything… Colour: white wine. Nose: stewed greengages and apples, with a peatiness that's really very discreet this time. Wrigley's Juicy Fruit. With water: brioche. NO smoke. Mouth (neat): not peat that I can find, rather mirabelle juice. My mistake. With water: indeed, plum jam and soft fruits, jams and syrups. Finish: same. Comments: love this little Red Snake, it's a brilliant bottle. It's just that there isn't any peat and to be honest, nowhere did it say that that it was stemming from the Isle of Islay. Shame, I feel shame, I think I shall now recite twenty Pater Nosters (yeah, like, they'll all believe you, S.)
SGP:541 - 86 points.

I agree, better stop now. C.U. Wait, perhaps a very last one…

Islay #2 25 yo (48.7%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, 3124 bottles, 2018)

Said to be Ardbeg, but single casks or tiny batches could just fool anyone. Apparently, the label's been done on acid. Why not. Colour: light gold. Nose: oh God, Comté cheese, proper Gruyère, Fribourg… All those made in summer, not winter. First time ever I'm finding this this deeply in a malt whisky. Astounding fermentary notes, but I'm not sure this is for everyone, you're soon to wonder about gym socks and 'third half-times', as they say in rugby. Especially when they win. Bulgarian yoghurt. Mouth: amazing. Vinegars, cheeses, funk, muck rum, game, chilli sauces, peppers, tinier, subtler spices, rotting fruits, burnt things, exotic woods (artisanal cachaça-style)… Another fractal palate… Did anyone notice this one when it came out? What was the world doing? Finish: supra-long, on chilli sauce for pizza and the most acidic lemons ever. Please no pineapple. Comments: I was not expecting this, really. A whacky beauty, free whisky as in free jazz. Was Sam Simmons already on board?
SGP:367 - 92 points.