
May 5, 2021

Three unusual Bunnahabhain

I know that's not much, but we've had a lot lately and what's more, these won't just be 'any' Bunnahabhains. Or, as we sometimes call them amongst supposedly enlightened whisky-chatteratti, 'Bunnies'.

Bunnahabhain 17 yo 2002/2020 (55.1%, Bon Accord, for Tung & Read, cask #3187)

I don't think this is the Bon Accord in Glasgow. This is, in truth, an intriguing bottle by Epicurean Selection, a bottler in Philadelphia, USA. Colour: deep gold. Nose: starts with rather a lot of 'good' sulphur, which, in my book, translates into big fat Cuban cigars and truffle cappuccino. Sounds nicer, does it not? Would then rather gear towards regular cappuccino and glazed chestnuts, as well as bouillon, dried porcini or Caesar's mushrooms. Unusual and intriguing so far. With water: mushrooms ruling the show, including morels and truffles. Also cured ham and more tobacco, leather, ground turmeric, ginseng powder… Mouth (neat): bites you a wee bit, with loads of bitters, dried mushrooms again, leather, and this feeling of sucking your cigar while you reach its end (as I remember that). Includes ashes. Very tight, almost paprika-y at times. With water: cold broth full of ham, chives, parsley, mushrooms, coffee… Finish: long, still tight and ultra-dry, with some bitter chocolate and even more salty bouillon. Comments: fun stuff. Some friends wouldn't kill for this style, but in this very case, as far as I'm concerned and since I love mushrooms, I think it worked. Forgot to mention green walnuts.
SGP:272 - 85 points.

Bunnahabhain 30 yo (48.5%, Hunter Laing, The Kinship, Feis Ile 2019, 560 bottles)

I've tried 2020's 30 yo Bunny Kinship a few weeks ago and was just floored (WF 91). So it's going to be a little tougher for this earlier version, I suppose. Colour: white wine. Nose: nothing beats an old malt that's been matured with moderation in some elegant wood. So, in high-class refill. Indeed this is just another higher-echelon Pouilly-Fumé made whisky, what we could even call a 'pur sang'. Stunning lemons and grapefruits, angelica, coriander leaves, dill, seawater, kelp, chalk and flints, then perhaps not-too-ripe mangos and just the tiniest signs of grated coconut, and fresh marzipan. All elegance. Mouth: oh very good. You could say proper old refill HP. Some smoke and some resinous and almondy herbs, the better side of glue-y flavours, more marzipan, something reminiscent of fresh putty, or orgeat syrup, pistachio syrup (just had some right this morning, I'm serious), pear cake, and really a salty peatiness. I'd swear you feel time, not wood. Finish: not too long but sublimely almondy, with this salty and frankly coastal background. Touches of peat and lime in the aftertaste. Comments: love these ones. Now I've been hesitating between 90 and 91 until iTunes started to play that old tune by The Soft Machine. So…
SGP:564 - 91 points.
PS the tune was their hit 'Memories'.

Bunnahabhain 40 yo (51.6%, Masam, cask #7229, 520 bottles, 2019)

Bunnahabhain 40 yo (51.6%, Masam, cask #7229, 520 bottles, 2019)
Some of Silvano Samaroli's own stock, bottled by his wife Maryse, after the maestro's very sad passing back in 2017. Let's keep in mind that these batches, whichever the bottlers – I suppose it's a 1978 – have sometimes been a little sketchy. The whisky loch, remember… Colour: white wine. Nose: certainly not the easiest batches indeed, with a lot of carboard, paraffin, even plastics, then damp flours, acidic dough, and just today's edition of the WSJ. That's right, paper and ink. All hopes are on my dear, faithful Vittel. That's water… With water: got to love Vittel, since H2O literally transforms this old Bunnahabhain. Perfect citrusy and herbal notes, with various vegetal oils singing in unison in the back. The choir, you know. Almost a christic transfiguration (hold your horses, S.) Gets perfect after you've let it breathe for a few more minutes, getting rather wonderfully medicinal. Mouth (neat): ah, wait, no quibbles here, despite these wee touches of varnish and paraffin. Nice limes and lemons, kiwi juice, a little riesling, then mint tea and a little olive oil. And green bananas. Unusually green given that it is 40 years old. What's sure is that this palate's much, much, and I mean much nicer than the nose when water was not added yet. With water: careful, do not add too much, it would become a little too green and rather drying and cardboardy. Well don't add any. Finish: medium, rather on green tea. Comments: I would say this one is to be had with water on your nose, and naked on your palate. I know, I know… Very good score for these vintages.
SGP:361 - 87 points.

Why unusual, you may ask? Well the Bon Accord was deeply on 'good sulphur', the fantastic Kinship was much smokier than other old Bunnahabhains, while the Masam was, well, pretty complicated.

(Thanks KC!)

Check the index of all Bunnahabhain we've tasted so far