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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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May 31, 2021 |
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The vicarious Feis Ile sessions
Today Caol Ila
Celebrating Islay and Feis Ile from Whisky Fun Towers, with carefully selected whiskies from most distilleries, while we're all dreaming of 2022...
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Ah, Caol Ila. Folks keep saying that it's the most industrial of all Islay distilleries, but first the location is tremendous, and second, I cannot even remember when I last tried a relatively 'mediocre' Caol Ila. It would even take a little wine from time to time, thanks to a fresher, cleaner, less extreme peaty profile. Let's see what we have… |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2008/2020 (50%, Roger's Whisky Co, PX octave finish, cask #318691B)
A tiny bottling from a tiny cask, oh and PX, let's see if what I just wrote was just codswallop or not. I mean, w.r.t. Caol Ila and wine… Colour: Gold. Nose: no stuffy raisins, no heady cherry tea and no bags of rubber and leaves, this is well Caol Ila, with this impeccable freshness and, as far as PX wood goes, rather notes of menthol and pine resin. Also tangerines and hessian. With water: mandarins, bananas, other tropical fruits… Mouth (neat): you really feel the spicy oak behind the seawater and lemon juice, and that's obviously the octave. Paprika, Thai basil, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, curry, salt, Szechuan pepper… Very modern, but balance has been preserved. With water: extremely well mastered, even if it may be a little too much on the spicy side. Finish: long, spicy and more on butterscotch and nougat. Comments: typical ex-small active cask. In my view they sometimes fail; well, not this time, not at all. But then again, Caol Ila can take almost anything.
SGP:655 - 86 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2009/2020 (58.8%, Elixir Distillers 'The Single Malts Of Scotland', cask #317838, hogshead, 300 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this one's pretty austere and rather all on medicinal notes, iodine, mercurochrome, gauze, bandages, then tons of chalk, limestone, plaster… A touch of olive and gherkin in the background. Not a bad sign… With water: gets even ueber-chalky. Chalk vodka? Would you say there is a market? Mouth (neat): very tight, salty and lemony, with hints of white cherries and almonds. Extremely pure, it seems… With water: boy does it swim well! Superb, pristine, katana-y ashes, lemon, chalk and seawater. This one does not cut you into halves, it cuts you into quarters, Kill-Bill-style. Finish: long and perfect, pure, chiselled and extremely vertical. Pretty mezcaly, in fact. Comments: this kind of stuff is why we're into whisky.
SGP:357 - 90 points. |
Good, we've already tried many CIs recently, so perhaps two older ones and we'll call this a session. |
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Caol Ila 1983/2015 (43%, Samaroli, barrel, cask #1461, 250 bottles)
It is interesting that they would have bottled this one at 43%... unless that's the actual natural cask strength? Nah, they would have said '43.1' or '42.9'… Remember, Silvano Samaroli was not behind these bottlings anymore, as he had sold his company and name. Colour: straw. Nose: wait wait wait… smoked almonds, lanolin, putty and fresh paint, old books, grape-pip oil, olive margarine spread, then delicate small oysters (I've read about Kumamotos but I've never seen – let alone tasted – any of those)…. What's sure is that this is extremely subtle and, I would add, perfect on the nose. Let's only hope the palate isn't too weak. Mouth: I'll say it, I find this sublime. The peat has already spread into several directions, fresh almond/nuts, tropical fruits (pink bananas first) and anything even remotely coastal. From old rubber dinghy to ark shell via oysters and razor clams. No, really, believe me. Astounding palate, while you wouldn't even notice the lightness. It is even a quality, and asset here. Finish: sure it is not very long, but it is glorious, mainly on salted citrus and fresh nuts. Wow. Comments: wow, sublime indeed. To think that I've lived for 6 years without even knowing about this utter glory. Now, 250 bottles, that's not many… And Samaroli's 1968 'Oval Label' still reigns supreme… (WF 96).
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
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Caol Ila 40 yo (44.9%, Hunter Laing, The Kinship Edition No.2, refill American hogshead, 2019)
Ahhh, the late 1970s… I believe Caol Ila was one of the rare distilleries that used to 'burn' greater malts in those whisky-loch-days, for reasons I could not explain; that's just an empirical observation. Colour: gold. Nose: by all saints, prophets and dancers, what a nose! Have you still got the number of the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade? Sublime lemony brine with that beach bonfire in the distance and a wide range of embrocations, seafood, and fresh nuts. Macadamia, almonds… Then menthol and a touch of anise. Mouth: all herbal teas of the creation, including a few that would be a little 'woody' but that's totally normal. Liquorice wood, sandalwood, soft cinnamon… All the rest is endlessly complex and, in fact, fractal. You know, a flavour generates other flavours, each of them generating other flavours in turn, and so on and on and on. So, as we said, a fractal palate. Finish: medium, soft, rather on high-end tea, with the usual almondy side. And citrus etc. Comments: the Samaroli and this one, what a duet! Miles and Coltrane when you 'blend' both in your glass.
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
Over to Angus in Edinburgh... |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2010/2021 (52.9%, Thompson Brothers, 500 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: sharp citrus, yeasty notes, active washbacks, sourdough, oysters with lime juice and some more 'outdoors' notes of tarry rope and fishing harbours. With water: rock pools, and swimming pools, all the pools! Also elastoplasts, mouthwash, wood ashes and bonjella mouth gel. Mouth: wonderfully ashy, lemony and coastal. Lots of seawater, some tart grapefruit, mineral salts, lemon peel and wee briny touches with a hint of vinegar. With water: nicely thickened with a richer, deeper smokiness. Kippers, lemon juice, anchovies in olive oil, chives, white and black pepper and some green olives in brine. Finish: long, lemony, smoky, coastal, sharp and pristinely fresh. Comments: yup, excellent quality, pretty faultless modern Caol Ila. Gathers one or two extra points with water in my view.
SGP: 356 - 86 points. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2010/2021 (58.2%, Watt Whisky, hogshead, 326 bottles)
Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: Mark Watt has some interesting things to say about getting aromas as colours when nosing whisky. It's something I also find myself on occasion and indeed, this one has a distinctly 'green' coastal vibe of capers in brine, wet seaweed, seawater and things like parsley, grass and petrol. With water: cornichons, more brine, preserved lemon and freshly chucked oysters. Mouth: very salty, almost like plunging mouth first into a Margherita with these notes of agave and particularly mezcal. Also lemon juice, wool, pickling brine, more seawater and green olives. With water: a slightly metallic edge to the smokiness, still razor sharp, immensely saline and increasingly mineral. Finish: long, on malt vinegar, mercurochrome and seawater. Comments: hard to argue with the purity and gutsy, saline power of this one.
SGP: 357 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2005/2021 (57.5%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseur's Choice for The Whisky Exchange, cask #301507, refill sherry hogshead, 266 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: I think peat and refill sherry more often make better bedfellows that peat and first fill sherry. That's the case here where there's a wonderfully leathery smokiness with cured game meats, earthen floor cellar funk and plenty of natural tar extract, tobaccos, pickled walnuts and anchovy paste. A lovely sense of concentration and balance. With water: more of these elegant meaty tones with notes of cured Iberico ham, some more leathery notes, more hessian, tar and black olive bread. Mouth: cured meats, smoked sea salt, brine, old leather and lots of hessian and canvass notes. Some black pepper and paprika too. Lovely balance again and an excellent weighty texture. With water: big, punchy, leathery saltiness now. More of these impressions of smoked sea salt, smoked olive oil, black olive tapenade, tar, bandages and hot paprika. Finish: long, tarry, smoky, leathery and briny; quite a bit of spiciness and meatiness in the aftertaste. Comments: there was something distinctly Spanish about this one, perhaps I just really, really need to go back to Jerez. Excellent as ever.
SGP: 566 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 1977 (63.8%, Gordon & MacPhail 'CASK', 1980s)
How many amazing, often rather enormous, whiskies has this series sheltered over the years? This should be one of the earlier releases, probably bottled around 10 years old. Colour: deep gold. Nose: what I find both charming and extremely cool about these bottlings, is that the initial nose actually appears quite subtle and shy despite the ABV. We're initially all on petrol, wet rocks, sheep wool and wee touches of camphor, brine and aniseed. There's a feeling of fatness and richness that the modern ones lack I think. With water: doubles down on anchovies, capers, seawater, brine and lemon juice. Extremely fresh and coastal but still with a deeper sense of weight to the distillate. Mouth: this impression of petrol and seawater immediately, but with added layers and textures of smoked olive oil, fir wood, pine resin, natural tar and black olive paste. Also many wee notes of tobaccos, seawater, hessian and sandalwood. Extremely clever whisky that hops between power and subtlety with ease. With water: perfect now. Briny smoke, olive oil, sardines, capers, parsley, mineral salts, rope and tar. Huge whisky but brilliantly controlled and inviting. Finish: very long, tarry, every shade of olive, some kippery smoke, hessian and dried seaweed. Comments: I think the key difference with Caol Ila from these 1970s vintages is the distillate was a little broader and 'fatter' in texture. That's really on display here and it works excellently I have to say. Makes the drinking experience a bit easier and hugely pleasurable.
SGP: 477 - 91 points. |
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Caol Ila 19 yo 1974/1994 (61.1%, Signatory Vintage, cask #12566, 380 bottles)
These batches are pretty hallowed nowadays. Colour: gold. Nose: seawater, medicines, bandages, lemon juice and peat smoke. All brought together with brilliant precision and purity and with this same sense of 'weight' that was in the 1977, only here it feels even more distinct and powerful. I think power and control are the key words here. With water: green olives, fresh chopped herbs, lemongrass, gauze, pink sea salt, gorse and wet beach pebbles. Gathers a wonderful complexity that keeps evolving. Mouth: hugely dense and smoky on arrival, but not acrid smoke, rather deeper, quilted, soft kiln smoke. Pure, silky peat smoke, black olive, natural tar, hay loft, farmyard notes, many medical embrocations, iodine, kelp and bonfire embers. Becomes increasingly tarry over time, quite immense! With water: stunningly oily now! The texture is just brilliant. The impression of peated olive oil, smoked limoncello (I know when I'm getting carried away because start using tasting notes for things that don't exist), pickled mussels and gherkins, natural tar and fir wood. Also many various wee ointments and these savoury qualities of Maggi, vegetable stock and soy sauce. Keeps evolving in completely compelling ways. Finish: long, extremely deep and broad. Salty, leathery and full of soft, thick peat smoke, brine, wood ashes, olive oil, tar and mineral oil. Comments: this kind of tasting note that could easily have been three times as long. The evolution, depth and complexity is just wonderful. And water seems to work miracles on the palate with this one. They really did get things right straight off the mark in 1974.
SGP: 476 - 93 points. |
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Tomorrow, Laphroaig Day! Not sure we'll manage to keep that short and sweet. Bowmore as well should be pretty extravagant, and Ardbeg too, but shh… |
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