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June 4, 2021


Whiskyfun

The vicarious Feis Ile sessions
Today Bunnahabhain

Celebrating Islay and Feis Ile from Whisky Fun Towers, with carefully selected whiskies from most distilleries, while we're all dreaming of 2022...

We've had bags and bags of Bunnahabhains lately so we'll try to keep this as short as possible. Hope we'll succeed and not get carried away… Perhaps focus on a wee bunch of peaters, a.k.a. Staoisha or Moine? While thinking of John MacLellan, naturally, as we did with Kilchoman… And perhaps not of Heineken, who have become the new owners, apparently. In theory, we should also try our 400th "Bunny" today…

John

Staoisha 7 yo 2013/2020 (54.7%, Morisco Spirits, bourbon hogshead)

Staoisha 7 yo 2013/2020 (54.7%, Morisco Spirits, bourbon hogshead) Four stars
Pretty pleased with what this neat little new house is putting out. Colour: white wine. Nose: entering a hospital, more precisely the traumatology department. A lot of antiseptic, iodine solution, disinfectant, a little gin (ermn…) then rather softer tones, vanilla, smoked almonds, raw wool, easy apples (golden delicious), chalk, seawater… With water: as almost always when you reduce young malts, pears do come out. Also these whiffs of 'a working kiln' and more salty drinks, perhaps a little manzanilla. Mouth (neat): good arrival, young and grassy, with rather a lot of green pepper and salt. More gin later on (ha!) With water: back to pure Islayness, this time with this adorable classic combo: brine, lemon juice, smoke, ashes and chalk. Finish: medium, on the same notes. Comments: these very young peaters almost never disappoint, as long as you're not in desperate need of utter complexity. In fact, they're excellent.
SGP:467 - 87 points.

Staoisha 7 yo 2013/2020 (60.7%, Fadandel.dk, barrel, cask #13000728, 244 bottles)

Staoisha 7 yo 2013/2020 (60.7%, Fadandel.dk, barrel, cask #13000728, 244 bottles) Four stars
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: rougher, even more on disinfectant, diesel oil, paint thinner, tarry ropes… But watch this strength! With water: lovely, barley sirup, marzipan, lime juice, some kind of smoked nougat and rather white tequila than gin. Whether that's for the better or not remains to be seen. Mouth (neat): extremely close to the Morisco, perhaps even more citric, lemony, acidic… You would guess this will be lovely once brought down to civilisation. With water: undistinguishable from the previous one, which is pretty good news. Touches of green pepper again. Finish: same. Comments: these do their job just right, if you ask me, and may now be mistaken for their neighbours that start with Caol and end with Ila. Which wasn't the case yet ten years before.
SGP:467 - 87 points.

Staoisha 7 yo 2013/2020 (56.8%, Fadandel.dk, 1st fill oloroso octave, cask #10443B, 56 bottles) Four stars
High peat finished for 17 months in 1st fill oloroso, and from a tiny octave at that, let's get ready for some heavy metal rock and roll… Colour: gold. Nose: looks like the octave had not been heavily seasoned/impregnated with oloroso, as this isn't really monstrous. Having said that the aromatic profile is unusual, with some kind of eggplant/toffee combination that would go on with Nescafé, speculoos, soy sauce and just walnut wine, a staple in the house. With water: plain oloroso, a little mint, some tar and some liquorice. Teak oil and walnut stain. Mouth (neat): toffee-ed smoked meats and fish, molasses, burnt caramel, roasted pecans, some green liquorice, stout… These profiles can be a little tiring but so far, so good. With water: gets a little leathery and leafy, with is the fate of many a sherried peater in my book. Nice, but not all rather heavily sherried peat monsters end-up being Lagavulin 21 or Laphroaig '74. Or Port Charlotte 'bloodtub'. Or Samaroli, etc. Finish: rather long, dry. Tobacco, coffee. Comments: nah, it's very good sherried juice, it's just that the ex-bourbons are having the upper hand in my little book
SGP:367 - 85 points.

Perhaps some older bottlings from the boxes and shelves…

Bunnahabhain 8 yo 2005/2014 (48%, High Spirits, Colour Collection)

Bunnahabhain 8 yo 2005/2014 (48%, High Spirits, Colour Collection) Four stars and a half
I think this was a peater too. Colour: white wine. Nose: you bet. A straighter, ashier, perhaps even narrower peatiness, all on some smoky brine. A little sourdough, wool, chalk and lemons too. No-fuss young peater without a single flaw. Mouth: absolutely excellent, straight, fatter than the 2013s, rather more on smoked fish, salmon, kippers… In a way, it is rather more 'Islay'. Lovely earthiness and touches of mint, liquorice and aniseed. Islay pastis, you're right! Pernod-Ricard could eventually be interested in this, imagine, Pastis from Islay! Finish: long, fresh, and indeed rather on pastis. Once you've got that in your head… Salty aftertaste. Comments: superb drop. I'll add that I'm usually rather fond of those 48% vol. that bring both body and drinkability (moderately).
SGP:467 - 88 points.

Deeper into the boxes…

Bunnahabhain 2013/2019 (59.6%, Black Corbie – Rolf Kaspar, Port cask Radoux, #4, 325 bottles)

Bunnahabhain 2013/2019 (59.6%, Black Corbie – Rolf Kaspar, Port cask Radoux, #4, 325 bottles) Three stars and a half
Hurray! I mean, HURRAY! It is the first time I'm seeing someone quoting the barrel makers rather than the wineries or bodegas. I mean, if it is about wine you'll quote winemakers, but if it is about wood and casks as they all say, it is much more logical to mention the cask makers, in this case the excellent French house Radoux, which I happen to know pretty well. Now we're entering the danger zone, as this would involve both peat and Port (which usually works like coffee and mustard in my book)… Colour: pink/apricot. Port, you know… Or blush rosé… Nose: still approachable, with leafy peat and pink peaches, peonies in abundance, and peppered biscuits. With water: damp earth and oyster shells. Mouth (neat): we're relatively safe. Apricot yogurt, a little varnish, jelly babies, cherry liqueur, pepper, more pepper… With water: gentler, more in line with regular Staoishas. Finish: rather long and rather good. Comments: not my preferred style, at all, but I would say this is one of my favourite peat+Port oddities. Those would usually rather fetch 10 less points in my little system
SGP:556 - 83 points.

Good, six will do. Let's find a proper, classic unpeated and sherried Bunnahabhain which, incidentally, will make for our 400th Bunnahabhain here on WF (which doesn't mean much, really)…

B

Bunnahabhain 14 yo 2001/2016 (46%, The Cooper's Choice, sherry butt, cask #1428, 420 bottles) Four stars
Cooper's Choice/Vintage Malt Whisky Co. have been instrumental to whisky-geekery, let's just mention their Lagavulins or their Port Ellens that were rather to be found in little shops in France and Italy, if my memory serves me well. Some great, great whiskies that have become highly sought-after by knowledgeable enthusiasts.

Bunnahabhain 14 yo 2001/2016 (46%, The Cooper's Choice, sherry butt, cask #1428, 420 bottles)

Colour: full gold. Nose: this is quality sherry, with delicate notes of toasted brown bread, halva, walnut cake, couscous (yep), cigars, dough, then whiffs of fumes and old engine. Touch of both leather and leatherette. Did you see that leatherette is coming back into fashion? Mouth: very good, dry, rather on liquorice at first, then tar and walnuts as well as more engine oil. It's a tight, spicy and earthy sherriness that would remind us of the bodegas in Jerez. Finish: rather long spicier yet, with rather a lot of cinnamon. Comments: excellent dry and spicy sherry that transports you to 'the triangle', although that's currently changing, apparently. I mean, appellations and all that, better check that on Ruben's excellent Sherrynotes website.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

(Merci Lucero)

Over to Angus in Edinburgh...

 

 

 

Bunnahabhain 12 yo (40%, OB, UK, 1980s, 75cl)

Bunnahabhain 12 yo (40%, OB, UK, 1980s, 75cl)
I fondly recall a 12yo litre bottle from the 1990s that I had recently and loved (WF 88). Let's go back even further with this old 80s bottling. Colour: gold. Nose: luscious! Beautifully soft, fragrant, leafy sherry overlaid with green fruits, cellar must, walnuts, aged limes, balsamic and gentle rancio. Old school and totally charming - also without any hint of OBE so far. Mouth: here the low ABV and probably a bit of caramel hold things back initially, however with some time these same wonderful leafy, tobacco-tinged sherry aspects come through. Herbal wines, walnuts, fruit loaf, sultanas and some nicely salty, resinous and earthy touches too. Extremely pleasurable quaffing whisky that would kill many OB Macallan 10yos from the same era. Finish: medium, warming, herbal, with many dried dark fruits, more walnuts, caffe latte and milk chocolate. Comments: Hard to be against such a charming wee dram. It's easy to say this about almost any old OB from this era, but this at 46% + would be 92 point material by now for sure. I just adore these early Bunna 12s.
SGP: 651 - 89 points.

 

 

Bunnahabhain 7 yo 2013/2020 (57.5%, Cadenhead for Whisky Market Cologne, bourbon barrel, 234 bottles)

Bunnahabhain 7 yo 2013/2020 (57.5%, Cadenhead for Whisky Market Cologne, bourbon barrel, 234 bottles)
One from this ongoing series that Cadenhead do for their own shops. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: obvious youth, in the form of bread starter, yeasty washback, young calvados, grist and tart green apple peelings. I also find some citrons, pilsner beer and bailed hay. Perfectly charming young Bunna. With water: I find it simpler now, on bakelite, plain cereals, more assorted beers and ink. Mouth: pretty hot at first, more impressions of proving bread, sourdough starter, blanc du blanc champagne, lemon rind and something like parsley dressed with petrol. You feel the youth but I think it works quite well, you just have to be in the mood. With water: still that yeasty/autolytic vibe, but richer now, supported by some white pepper, asparagus (white of course Serge), mineral oils and some thicker notes of hessian. Finish: good length and nice bready richness, malt extract, bitter ales, sunflower oil, lanolin and citrus peels. Comments: I increasingly find myself enjoying younger whiskies these days, perhaps because quite a few newer producers are coming along and making excellent whiskies at younger ages. But not only those guys it seems, this is a very fine young Bunna. Although, I would hazard that it would probably be just as enjoyable in highball form.
SGP: 461 - 83 points.

 

 

Port Askaig 45 yo 1968 (40.8%, Elixir Distillers, five refill sherry butts, 1200 bottles)

Port Askaig 45 yo 1968 (40.8%, Elixir Distillers, five refill sherry butts, 1200 bottles)
I am 'reliably informed' of the origins of this one…Colour: deep gold. Nose: old fino sherry, banana skins, lime oil, hessian, fir wood and verbena. Perfectly aromatic and still beautifully fresh and coastal. Sandalwood, mineral oils, pot pourri and green tea with lemon. Beautiful! Mouth: soft but the arrival is still very 'Bunna' with these light nutty tones, groundnut oil with lemon peel, mineral oils, pineapple, herbal cough medicines, miso, vapour rubs and ripe exotic fruits with gentle waxy tones. Old but excellent and just teetering on the edge. Finish: long, quite herbal, medical, nicely bitter with citrus piths, pollens, more hessian and wee camphor notes. I find liquorice and verbena in the aftertaste. Comments: there's some fragility around the edge, but it remains undeniably extremely pleasurable old Bunna that held onto an impressive amount of freshness and elegance. And, probably most importantly of all: class!
SGP: 562 - 90 points.

 

 

Some peat to finish…

 

 

Bunnahabhain 12 yo 2009/2021 (52.1%, Lady Of The Glen, cask #188, refill hogshead, 257 bottles)

Bunnahabhain 12 yo 2009/2021 (52.1%, Lady Of The Glen, cask #188, refill hogshead, 257 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: sea salt, salt cured white fish, lemon infused olive oil, white flowers, mineral salts and some very gentle wood ashes. Modern, pure and very precise peated Bunna. With time it loosens up slightly and becomes a little oilier and fatter. With water: herbal scented smoke, crushed aspirin, sardines and some nicely grubby notes of puffer smoke and boilers. Mouth: lovely arrival, all on sea salt and malt vinegar with further impressions of chip fat, metal polish, mineral salts again, tar, creel nets, wee sooty notes and charred pine wood. Bigger than the nose suggested but feels very quaffable thanks to a tidy ABV. With water: excellent salty, tarry, white pepper, seawater, grapefruit juice, TCP and again these slightly fatter and greasier notes of mechanical oils, tar and boiler smoke. Big whisky that manages to be simultaneously very quaffable. Finish: long, wonderfully salty, peppery, tarry, hot calamari, paprika, lemon juice and iodine. Comments: I love the tension here between this more pure, chiselled style and its fatter, more oily and 'dirty' aspects. Great and very typical 'Moine' I would say. And hats off to LOTG for a smart selection.
SGP: 377 - 88 points.

 

 

Thanks Andy

 

 

 

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Bunnahabhain we've tasted so far

 

 

 
   

 

 

 

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