Summer Duets today Benromach again


August 26, 2021

summer

Summer Duets
today Benromach again

Yes, again, but there's rather many new Benromach around and we sure shan't complain. Neither shall we keep these ones in the B-boxes for years…
A passer-by signs cask #1 at the inauguration of the Distillery, 1998. (Benromach)

Benromach 2010/2021 (58.4%, OB, for The Whisky Exchange, first-fill bourbon barrel, cask #390, 211 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: a tad hottish but gloriously filled with burning hay and lemon icing at first, then mercurochrome and just iodine. The no-sherry situation seems to make it more coastal than usual and, a contrario, rather less farmy. Less see… With water: the first-fill side of the barrel comes out, with some custard and cakes and a rounder profile on the nose, but the combo would also generate notes of eucalyptus and patchouli, perhaps even a little 'good grass'. Mouth (neat): I would say never a Benromach has been this close to a peated Islay whisky. Clear and loud peat smoke, medicinal notes, lemons, chalk, even kippers and shellfish, all that on a rather fat, oily body. Dried apple chips. With water: super good, tight and fat at the same time, with these notes of sharp green white wine (sauvignon blanc) that we enjoy so much. Less Islay too but it clearly remains 'a peater'. Some herbs, sage? Tarragon? But only wee bits… Finish: rather long, still fat, tight and bright. More saltiness, more seashells, more minerality. Comments: absolutely lovely and clearly on the Highland Park – Clynelish – Benromach (some) – Ben Nevis – Springbank line.
SGP:455 - 89 points.

Benromach 40 yo (57.1%, OB, first-fill oloroso sherry, 1047 bottles, 2021)

Benromach 40 yo (57.1%, OB, first-fill oloroso sherry, 1047 bottles, 2021)
I couldn't spot any vintage statements on this brand new one, so it could be a multi-vintage expression, just like the superb 2019 edition that we tried earlier in August (WF 91). Now the 2019 was bourbon + sherry, whilst this new 2021 is full sherry. It's still 'Diageo' distillation as G&M bought the then silent Benromach Distillery in 1993 and restarted production in 1998. By the way Diageo kept bottling some Benromach after the sale, for example with a 1978/1998 Rare Malts which, by the way, I didn't like too much, but let's move on... Colour: bronze gold, so they weren't 'dark' sherry casks. Nose: starts with a little plasticine and whiffs of brand new electronics but gets then absolutely shock-full of dried fruits, including tropical ones. For example, our good friends the bananas. And then, it would move towards bouillons and Asian sauces, soy, teriyaki, sesame... Rather dazzling so far. With water: the plasticine is still there while all the rest is rather sublime and would remind me of some much older 'full sherry' bottles by another, perhaps a tad more famous Speyside distillery. A little wood and rubber smokes (much distant whiffs of burning tyres). Mouth (neat): these slightly sour touches at first (cherries, balsamic vinegar) that we've already encountered in older vintages, going towards leather, pepper and cigars, then lighter gravy and then marmalade and kumquats, with touches of coffee. Moves a lot, in all senses of that word (except senses that I wouldn't know of as a non-native, naturally). With water: rather different, that is to say more on aromatic and 'fruity herbs', which is just fantastic. Peach leaf syrup, yellow chartreuse (that's easier than quoting many herbs – a taster's trick), fir honey, earl grey, oriental pastries, mint and almonds… What's more the oak remains extremely civilised all along because while being there, it would never raise its voice. Finish: long, with more chocolate, coffee and marmalade, with a salty touch and another drop of bouillon, the old fashioned way. The plasticine is back in the aftertaste, which I find funny. There's quite some cracked pepper too. Comments: a longer tasting note says it all.
SGP:562 - 93 points.

Check the index of all Benromach we've tasted so far