
May 27, 2021

Strathmill and Strathmill

There's more Strathmill at the indies. Never been a blue chip but since there's more, we now realise that there are some very good ones. It is a side effect of the disappearance of some of the 'big shots' within the indie ranges. Better a Strathmill that tells its name or a 'secret' supposedly teaspooned Macallan that does not?

Strathmill 26 yo 1994/2020 (47.4%, Morisco Spirits, bourbon hogshead)

Strathmill 26 yo 1994/2020 (47.4%, Morisco Spirits, bourbon hogshead)
We've already tried a very young Caol Ila by this new bottler that was excellent (WF 87). Also, we like it that they would have finished this Strathmill of good age in… nothing. Looks like pure refill… Colour: light gold. Nose: it is not particularly unusual, or different from the rather vast flows of natural Speysiders that are currently being distilled – and are sleeping - in Scotland, but it is particularly attractive, with perfect bread, grist, beer, apples, vanilla, porridge, malted barley, then marshmallows and lemon curd. More a top filler than anything else, but that's exactly why I find it charming this far. For Johnnie Walker Blue? Mouth: proper well-aged malt whisky with a citrusy edge. Apples, grass, porridge, ale, touch of honey, then lemons, bergamots, citrons and grapefruit as well as the marmalades and liqueurs made out of them. Very good mouth feel. Finish: long, grassier, a tad bitter. Rather a lot of lemon peel in the aftertaste, a little limoncello as well. Comments: very good. You could also use this to compose your own Mozartian top-of-the-world San-Francisco-ready blended Scotch. Take this and add 20% very old Invergordon, 20% old Clynelish or Highland Park, and 10% old Ardbeg. Salud!
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Strathmill 33 yo 1986/2019 (54.2%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare Platinum Selection, 150 bottles)

I'm glad to realise that this emblematic series is still being made. I fondly remember the very first set; oh, that Glendullan! Colour: light gold. Nose: goes straight to peel and grass, Wulong tea, grapefruits, also leaves and barks. Just touches of vanilla and all-flower honey in the background. Water should wake it up a little more… With water: a few wee camphory and resinous notes and more softness. Green bananas, would I say. Mouth (neat): this feeling of 'top filler' once again. This is very malty and leafy, big bodied, perhaps a little bitter (it is extremely leafy, in fact). Some earthy herbal teas and some lemon peel in the background. With water: it loves water and becomes almost gentle. Sponge cake with some honey and fig jam. Warning, fig jam can kill (because you'll empty the pot in a flash and immediately order a case – even worse, from Amazon!) Finish: rather long, solidly malty and grassy, with that honey in the aftertaste. Comments: a little hard when neat, but water does it much good in my opinion. I think the bottlers should add this to their labels when appropriate, 'better with a few drops of water'.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Free bonus:

Strathmill 25 yo 1993/2018 (51.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 210 bottles)

Strathmill 25 yo 1993/2018 (51.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 210 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: extremely close to the Platinum; almost undistinguishable, in fact. Don't mix-up your glasses or you're dead. I mean, figuratively. With water: this time it does not really get any softer. A lot of grass, leaves, and apple peel. Mouth (neat): a tad wackier than the Platinum this time, with a few burnt notes and perhaps a little shoe polish that's not obligatorily in its place. Otherwise grass and lemon peel with bitter leaves. Hope water will do its magic once more. With water: hold on, fish? Certainly a little salt. Well, Strathmill is not that far from the sea, it's just at the vertical of Inchgower, just south of Glen Keith. 30 miles from the sea, perhaps? (so seven hours of driving, ha-ha). Finish: rather long and a little better. A touch of varnish on top of lemon syrup and a little vanilla cake. Comments: I think the others were 'clearer', which was one of their assets.
SGP:361 - 80 points.

Check the index of all Strathmill we've tasted so far