
March 28, 2021

Caution

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Our traditional bag of rums on Sunday

This and that from various corners of our world…

Darboussier 'Rhum Vieux Hors d'Âges" (45%, OB, Guadeloupe, +/-2020)

Darboussier 'Rhum Vieux Hors d'Âges" (45%, OB, Guadeloupe, +/-2020)
A brand name that refers to an ancient sugar factory in Guadeloupe. I don't think it is agricole, rather 'rhum de sucrerie', so molasses-based. Colour: golden amber. Nose: I find it extremely floral and fruity, rather on lilies and dandelions, pineapples and ripe bananas, touches of litchi, muscat and gewurztraminer, then rather some heather honey, so it's all very aromatic, yet nicely fresh and certainly not too heady. Lovely whiffs of crushed Szechuan pepper too, quinces, red apricots, pink grapefruits... Lovely indeed, hope the palate won't be too sweet. Mouth: absolutely not, I'm rather finding a little furniture polish and varnish, some salted liquorice, salted chocolate, a little butterscotch, paprika, then dried bananas. The saltiness is both intriguing and welcome. Salted fudge. Finish: medium, very clean, caramelly, sweet but never sugarish. Pretty good. Comments: I believe this is made by Madras in Pointe-à-Pitre but don't quote me. I wasn't expecting much.
SGP:641 - 81 points.

Another Frenchy at 45% vol…

Depaz 7 yo 'VSOP' (5%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2019)Depaz 7 yo 'VSOP' (5%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2019)

Depaz 7 yo 'VSOP' (5%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2019)
Depaz is agricole, obviously. Probably rather drier than the surprisingly pleasant Darboussier. Colour: deep gold. Nose: more varnish at first, then damp earth and a dirtyish, almost dunnage-y development. Some overripe or even rotting fruits, especially bananas, then pine needles, resin, something terpenic, overripe pineapples… Clearly some action here, but curious about how that'll translate onto our palate… Mouth: the Darboussier was probably a little 'commercial', while this isn't, at all. More rotting fruits, peelings, heavy liquorice over fir honey and resins, stewed peaches, something a little metallic… In a way, you may call this 'a Glenturret from Martinique'. If you see what I mean… Finish: rather long, a tad sweer and sour, with some old oak. Strawberry yoghurt in the aftertaste. Comments:
SGP:551 - 79 points.

Off to Guyana…

Port Mourant 17 yo 2002/2020 (51.7%, The Rum Mercenary, Guyana)

Port Mourant 17 yo 2002/2020 (51.7%, The Rum Mercenary, Guyana)
I have a good feeling here… Colour: gold. Nose: it is one of those very petroly batches, very dry, very much on carbon dust, brake pads, olive brine, capers, samphires, engine oil, with something acetic if not vinegary. You cannot not think of Jamaica. With water: whiffs of geranium – no worries though – then olive oil, old hessian, perhaps a little green pesto, and just seawater. Mouth (neat): at first you'd almost believe there was a little peat involved here. Then the much expected olives, both green and black, small pickled artichokes, fermenting cane juice (vesou), perhaps manioc beer (nihamanchi). With water: a little sweeter (small dried sultanas), and certainly earthier. Fun that it actually got rather less 'funky' after reduction. Pineapple chutney. Finish: long, a tad smoother than other middle-aged PMs, perhaps. Comments: yet it's another excellent one, more distillate-driven than the ones that are fully aged in the tropics.
SGP:553 - 89 points.

Diamond 17 yo 2003/2020 (59.3%, The Duchess, Guyana, cask #26)

Diamond 17 yo 2003/2020 (59.3%, The Duchess, Guyana, cask #26)
A good feeling here too. Colour: gold. Nose: rather more varnish, bark, butterscotch, quince jelly, pear cake... In short and unless the high voltage numbs it a wee bit, it's probably not a high-ester Diamond. The liquorice is loud though. With water: varnish and preserved fruits, with notes of rose petals and vetiver. Definitely not one that's very high on petrol and olives. Mouth (neat): a tad hot and spirity but mind you, 59.3% vol. With water: there, some salt, olive oil, seawater, salted liquorice, anchovies… Finish: long and rather on liquorice, seawater, and fermenting fruits. Say strawberries. Perfect aftertaste on cough drops. What we call 'Pulmoll'. Comments: another very excellent one by The Duchess. Hope she's not the Duchess of Sussex behind this lovely little company (oh S., come on!)
SGP:562 - 87 points.

Oh, we had this in the boxes…

Sixty Six 12 yo 'Cask Strength' (59%, OB, Foursquare, Barbados, +/-2016)

Sixty Six 12 yo 'Cask Strength' (59%, OB, Foursquare, Barbados, +/-2016)
One of Foursquare's brands. Not sure where it sits in the range, but doesn't any truth only lie in your glass anyway? (one of the most stupid sayings in the world if you ask me). I was about to try to do a silly joke with 'route 66 - root 66' and stuff but enough is enough. Colour: gold. Nose: it's a rounded, cake-y, fudge-y, panettone-y one. Some old Sauternes, some butterscotch, touch of cellulosic varnish, a few asparagus, bamboo shoots… Well, it is very 'Foursquare'. No wonder. With water: soft, on cakes, amaretti, macaroons, even meringues if you will… And cane 'honey'. Mouth (neat): could be that there would be more 'column' Foursquare in this, and consequently, less 'pot-still'. What's sure is that it's rather more bourbony than other Foursquares, a tad more on vanilla and, well vanilla vodka. Some sourer wood too. With water: soft and very good. Scones and pancakes with some maple syrup and more cane honey. Good vanilla-led coating, in the style of some bourbons. You'd even swear there is some rye in this. Finish: medium, sweeter, on nougat, with a little bubblegum. Comments: I agree it's a little bizarre to call a rum at 59% vol. 'Foursquare light'. Nevertheless, I find it very good.
SGP:640 - 85 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far