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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 18, 2021 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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New Ben Nevis 10yo plus sparring partners |
There's a new Ben Nevis 10yo out and about which is very pleasing, let's try it today along with a few other suitable Ben Nevi. Sadly I don't have the new NAS bottling to hand so can't do them head to head. |
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Ben Nevis 10 yo (46%, OB, 2021)
A tasteful and confident looking re-branding if you ask me. I always think lots of blank space is rather cool and powerful on a label. Although, it does look quite 'Japanese', if I may say so… Colour: straw. Nose: impressively, and immediately, 'old school'. Lots of chalk, waxes, plaster, limestone and white flowers. Feels closer to these late 90s batches in profile than some of the sweeter recent batches. Goes on with some lemon peel, waxy citrons, hay, and barley water. Wonderfully natural and, if I may say so, uncommercial. Mouth: lovely fat and waxy arrival, lots of olive oil, light ointments, natural barley derived sweetness and encroaching exotic fruits ala the 1996s. Wonderful texture in the mouth and 'presence', makes you wonder if they haven't added one or two older casks to the mix? Finish: good length, oiliness, malt extract, waxes, citrus oils, very lightly medicinal and gently herbal. Comments: I dread to think how many far, far more expensive whiskies would be unceremoniously slaughtered by this and Springbank 10yo. This is charming, hugely characterful, precise, distinctive, extremely well balanced and, most importantly, totally delicious. Someone dangerously clever was behind this…
SGP: 562 - 89 points. |
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I don't do a monthly 'Bang For Your Buck' bottling on Whiskyfun, but if I did, it's hard to imagine what might topple that wee Ben Nevis. |
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Glencoe 8 yo 'Highland Blended Malt' (58%, OB, 2021)
I purchased this bottle at the distillery last time I was passing, only because they had no single malt available whatsoever - oh, apart from stupid miniatures. Dear Nikka… cough *hand fill / distillery exclusive* cough…please. Colour: gold. Nose: I actually find it highly reminiscent of the very same brand's 1980s batches. A lot of hot grist, concrete, porridge, aspirin, crushed ferns - all rather big, powerful and austere. Takes no prisoners and probably more 'challenging' than many peated malts. Goes on with a funny mix of golden syrup and mashed potatoes. With water: not particularly 'easier' by any stretch, but perhaps more rounded, more bread, oils, toolbox rags, metal polish and a slightly sweeter side. Mouth: big, grizzly and hot. Lots of sweetened cooking oils, pink pepper, vase water, mineral oils and wee touches of camphor and putty. Chunky whisky that you might break a tooth on if you're not careful. With water: still very peppery, spiky and hot. But quite a bit of golden syrup on brown bread now too, which adds richness and weight. Barley sugars and some fudge. Finish: medium, spicy, peppery and with some sweet malt extract and stout beer. Comments: it's rather charming that this is still every inch the unsexy and tricksy monster as it was in the 80s and earlier. No idea what proportion of Ben Nevis goes into this - or which other malts. I've heard Tomintoul mentioned before but that seems fanciful given how boisterous this is. Good fun for highballs and rusty nails probably.
SGP: 571 - 81 points. |
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Ben Nevis 9 yo 2012/2021 (53%, Dram Mor, cask #115, 1st fill palo cortado finish, 351 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: a rather tart, crisp and sharp sherry influence that leaves an impression of salinity and even acidity at first nosing. Brown bread, hessian, lambic ales, preserved dark fruits and a quite dry, punchy earthiness. With water: a sprig of mint, some eucalyptus, sugary black tea and hessian. Mouth: red berries, more bready notes, pickled walnuts, camphor, tarragon, aniseed and various roots and herbs. So far it feels a tad simple but punchy and pretty good. With water: sweeter, some citrus curds, barley water, bitter marmalade - solid! Finish: rather long and on cinnamon and aniseed boiled sweets, cough mixtures and barley sugars. Suddenly all rather old school confectionary focussed! Comments: a bit tough at times and rough round the edges in places, but I think the finish worked quite well here, there's a ruggedness about it which is enjoyable.
SGP: 562 - 84 points. |
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Ben Nevis 10 yo 2010/2021 (56.7%, The Duchess, Shiraz cask finish, cask #1800020, 317 bottles)
No shortage of Ducks and assorted other wildlife on whisky labels since the 1980s it would seem… Colour: rose gold. Nose: slightly lactic at first, some kind of sour cherry beer, forest fruits yoghurt, sourdough bread starter, rose champagne and wee touches of hessian and mineral oil. I find it a wee bit disjointed and sharp, but not without its charms. Thankfully the wine isn't too over the top. With water: slightly dusty, on plasticine, plain barley, digestives, white flowers. Also chlorophyl and red chilli oil. Getting rather hot and spicy now in fact. Mouth: good body on arrival, oils, putty, damsons, dried flowers, pot pourri. Becomes a tad more unlikely with red fruit gums and red liquorice. Grains and cereals, mashed potato, olive oil, putty. Funny stuff, but more 'fun' than 'stuff' (Angus, WTF?!) With water: at its best I would say, there's some nicely oily, spicy and lightly waxy Ben Nevis coming through loud and clear, but there's this slight but definite wine influence that I do struggle with a bit it must be said. Finish: good length, returning to chilli, strawberry sherbet, white pepper, olive oil and mustard powder. Comments: Quite a lot of fun overall, but these kinds of wine finishes aren't really my cup of malt I'm afraid.
SGP: 651 - 82 points. |
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Let's have a few more if you don't mind… |
I have to say Angus's excellent tasting note for the new 10 have kind of teased me while there's only one way to retaliate, try a few more Ben Nevisses (Ben Nevi?), more or less as they come and even if Saturday is not my official day… |
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Ben Nevis 5 yo 2016/2021 'Peated' (46%, Signatory Vintage for LMDW, The Un-chillfiltered Collection, cask #202, 350 bottles)
Very young and yet already finished with wine, this time Montravel, a little-known French wine, which is part of Bergerac in the south-west (Dordogne, not too far from Bordeaux). As I sometimes say, would you like to learn more about wine? Buy Scotch whisky! Colour: gold. Nose: it does take it and probably became really earthier, while touches of overripe bananas would start to appear, as well as all kinds of Christmas tea mixes. Like star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, clove and ginger. Use good water at 80°C, brew that tea slowly, filter out, throw away and have this Ben Nevis instead. There's also a pretty coastal saltiness, 'a walk on the beach at low tide with your wet dog' and so on. Mouth: some kind of curry sauce, really. Chili, wasabi, curry indeed… I would recommend dim-sums or even tandooris, and a lot of water. Loads of green bell pepper too, some dried green apples, quite some leather and rather a few bits of cigarette tobacco. Untipped Craven "A" (whatever).Finish: long, you'd almost believe you've just eaten some water pipe tobacco. Something Turkish or Egyptian, perhaps. Comments: extremely unusual, at times a little challenging, very spicy, and pretty 'meta'. Very difficult to score, you cannot just think inside the box.
SGP:664 - 85 points. |
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Ben Nevis 7 yo 2013/2021 (46%, Signatory Vintage, The Un-chillfiltered Collection, barrels, casks #421+423)
Colour: whiter than the whitest white wine. Nose: Ben Nevis to the bone, extremely dry, grassy, with a lot of paraffin and porridge, but rather little bread. Damp oatcakes (something went wrong) and gravel, concrete… Mouth: a yes and no malt, I would say. Very nice if you enjoy 'millimetric' malts (I've heard Boris wanted to reintroduce old British measures? I they ever relaunch the Morris Marina, I shall tell you right now that I won't buy any!) Lemon and granny smith juices, a feeling of plaster, notes of green pears, green tea. Finish: medium, with a little more straight ethanol. The glories of young ex-ueber-refill malt. Comments: I think this works – because it does - because it is Ben Nevis.
SGP:361 - 81 points. |
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Ben Nevis 10 yo 2010/2021 (59%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist, bourbon, cask #401, 240 bottles)
Another brand new one, I'm not even sure it's out yet. Lovely labels, as usual with this arty series. Hope they'll do a 'Christo' one day, with the bottles wrapped in tent canvas. Colour: straw. Nose: surgical spirit at first, then grain whisky (yes) with quite a lot of coconut and marshmallows. You could also believe this is bourbon at times, but I'm sure that's all mostly due to the very high strength. Rather un-Ben Nevis so far. With water: absolutely not the same whisky, as Ben Nevis's greasy, mineral fatness is starting to come out, with some pistachio oil, plasticine, new iPhone box (warning, may contain a new iPhone), sourdough, fresh lemon cake from this morning… Mouth (neat): oh great. Hard to say why, because of the strength, but there's a lemon-drop quality to this that's very pleasant. With water: once again things get tighter, more mineral, still lemony, more tropical as well. Passion fruits and 'plane' mangos, white tea… All in all it remains a rather civilised Ben Nevis, no mad horse this time. Is that a general trend in Fort Williams? Some peatier batches ala Longrow and on the other hand, some gentler ones ala Hazelburn? And no more 'Springbanks'? (with apologies to all brand owners and entitled partners). Finish: medium, sweet and easy. Gets even more floral, violet bonbons from Toulouse, poppy bonbons, orange squash… Comments: I like this style a lot too, it's just much softer and rather less idiosyncratic. Ha, that word.
SGP: 641- 87 points. |
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Ben Nevis 2012/2021 (59.3%, Swell de Spirits, Wonders of The World, first fill oloroso, cask #1902)
Colour: light gold. It's really a new thing that 1st fill oloroso would impart this little colour. Nose: I seem to spot some sootier tones here and there but it's hard to say whether that stems from the spirit or from the cask. It's clearly fermentary, having said that (bread dough, beer). With water: yess! Bidis, green cigars and walnuts – the sherry doing its job in a rather fino-y way – sourdough, a little mint tea, some chalkiness… This is more classic Ben Nevis. Mouth (neat): big, fat, lemony, waxy, quite pungent. Wasabi aged in wood. Green oranges too. It's actually a little brutal but remember, almost 60%. With water: lovely indeed. Chalky lemons, soot, ashes, green pepper, paraffin, horseradish, then orange blossom water and earl grey. Peppery rhythm section. Finish: long, rather on bitter oranges. Turmeric and ginseng powder, perhaps (I'm feeling better already)… Comments: a wee step above, I would say.
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
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Ben Nevis 22 yo 1998/2021 (47.4%, The Whisky Blues and The Alcohol Bar, hogshead, cask #1574, 237 bottles)
Lovely wee label, those are twenty Beethovens, are they not? By the way, these lovely people are located in Taiwan. No, not Ben Nevis of course. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: oh, rubber boots and new scuba diving outfit! Isn't it funny that some notes would be deemed as faulty in other whiskies, and not in Ben Nevis? Candles, copper polish, exhaust pipe, soot, concrete, dunnage warehouse… So typical pre-Y2K Ben Nevis, and with flying colours. Mouth: there, chalk, soot and paraffin, plus a few olives and rather a lot of horseradish and pepper. Implacably Ben Nevis, hope they keep making this style too… Finish: long, with more lemon beyond the rather huge peppery and chalky side. Comments: glorious vintages. I really hope they haven't broken – or lost – the mould.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
I think we should go on for a little while and keep on tackling the greater vintages… |
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1997/2021 (43.2%, Thompson Bros., refill hogshead, 357 bottles)
An unusually low strength. Yes this must be natural cask strength, I'm willing to put my badge on it. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, marzipan and plasticine, how typical indeed. Pistachio oil indeed, camphor, broken branches, moisturiser, crushed strawberries, then wood oils, teak, thuja, cedar… Also jasmine… It's really complex, these noses are often wonderful, I mean when the strength got low, but naturally, it's on the palate that the truth should lie… Mouth: it is a little lightish indeed, but this lime-y development and some increased overall acidity just keeps it high in the skies. Exactly what would happen with some scary and yet fabulous low-strength northern-German rieslings. Hoppla! Secondary notes: papayas, granny smith, star fruit, green tea, fresh almonds, seaweed, nori… Finish: with medium length but saltier yet. Comments: near perfect.
SGP:552 - 89 points. |
A final 24 yo for the road… |
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1996/2021 (45.8%, Hunter Laing, First Editions for KHK, refill hogshead, cask #HL08139, 266 bottles)
In malt whisky, pink's in fashion, it seems. Colour: white wine. Nose: it's a straight, austere, waxy, oily one, rather on those fresh almonds indeed, broken branches again, asparagus peel, lemon peel, green walnuts, then a little lemon oil and avocado cream. Oh and touches of chalk and soot, naturally, plus a little barley sugar, syrup, a wee glass of mash... Mouth: we're pretty close to the Thompson's, naturally, this has just a little more acidity, lemons, grapefruits, granny smith, star fruit, green gooseberries… On the other hand, and rather consequently, it's a notch less complex. Finish: medium, on chalky grapefruits, with touches of icing sugar and sweetened or rather honeyed herbal teas, lemongrass… The aftertaste is relatively sweet. Comments: so, 1996, Ben Nevis or Clynelish? That's your homework over the weekend, good luck.
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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