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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 4, 2021 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Glenglassaugh
times four |
I don't get a chance to taste much Glenglassaugh, and indeed, it remains a bit of a left-field name in whisky Geekdom. However, I was impressed by some of the newer whiskies we tasted during a recent trip to the distillery, and when it's good it can be genuinely excellent whisky. |
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Glenglassaugh 'Revival' (46%, OB, -/+ 2020)
Matured in a combination of ex-red wine and first fill bourbon casks, then married and re-racked into fresh sherry. There seems to be quite a few batches out there of this one but I'm afraid I don't know exactly which one this is, except to say 'recent'. Colour: gold. Nose: youthful but rather rich and with lots of breads, a few honey notes and touches of porridge, dried flowers and slightly sappy touches from the wood. Overall the 'wood' aspects don't feel too loud though, and there's no obvious cloying from the wine component. Feels pretty fresh and natural overall. Mouth: rather punchy arrival, quite a bit of gingerbread, honey, spice cake, wood spices and a bit more influence from the wine components comes through - things like plum and damson jams. Good level of weight and richness in the mouth. Getting quite a bit of rye bread spiciness and treacle too. Finish: medium, spicy, lightly sappy and with some more grippy woody notes. Comments: decent, humble sipping whisky, and I think an improvement on earlier batches. But Glenglassaugh from more simple wood is much, much more to my taste I would say.
SGP: 561 - 78 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 10 yo 2009/2020 (54.7%, OB 'Coastal Casks', cask #1346, bourbon barrel, 250 bottles)
Colour: pale straw. Nose: lovely! A wealth of ripe pears, cider apples, lighter notes of pineapple and fruit salad juices. Extremely fresh, ripe and vibrant. Quite a lot of playful cereals too, soda bread, canvass, rolling tobacco, lemon pith. Feels both 'rich' and 'light' - which I really enjoy. With water: goes more towards cereals, breads, freshly made salty porridge, hessian and trail mix. Mouth: classical and excellent modern bourbon matured whisky in that you have this immediate combination of silky and natural vanilla from the wood, along with coconut and tinned exotic fruits such as pineapple and guava. Also greener orchard fruits which feel a little crisper with a light sense of acidity. With water: Poire William, lightly custardy, white pepper and thready traces of waxiness. Great distillate I would say. Finish: good length, lightly salty, some green herbs, heather flowers and wee touches of honey and cereal. Comments: top notch! Detailed, pleasurable and very 'natural' malt whisky. And indeed you do feel a wee coastal 'tang' here and there.
SGP: 651 - 87 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 10 yo 2009/2020 (55.9%, OB 'Rare Cask Release', cask #559, bourbon barrel, 191 bottles)
This one should be peated… Colour: light gold. Nose: there's certainly some peat at work here, a lovely and gentle medicinal profile emerges first. Embrocations, bandages, antiseptic and things like sheep wool oils, lemons in brine and salted liquorice. Elegant, complex and well-balanced. With water: thicker smokiness, aniseed, sooty fireplaces, smoky wort and bonfire embers. Mouth: the peat is bigger and thicker on arrival. More dense, turfy peat but still otherwise very medicinal and sharp with notes of mercurochrome and sheep wool oils. Impressions of old hessian, charred rope and smoked olive oil. With water: more smoked olive oil, salted peanuts, brine, seawater and herbal cough medicines. Really excellent! Finish: long, oily, peaty, tarry, salty and medicinal. Comments: Should we all be paying a little more attention to these new Glenglassaughs? Quality seems pretty excellent if you ask me.
SGP: 465 - 88 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 30 yo (42%, OB, 2020)
There's some sherry influence in this one but what proportion is full term vs secondary maturation I'm not sure. Colour: gold. Nose: orange marmalade, dried guava and papaya, flapjack, heather honey and wee touches of mango, nectars and waxes. Emblematic 'aged' single malt whisky that brings together fruitiness, richness and wood influence in a wonderfully harmonic way I think. In time I find some apricot and mineral oil too. Mouth: once again this impression of dried dark and exotic fruits, wood spice, fragrant green and herbal teas, and also dark grained breads. Some beery tones as well, feels very rich in texture despite the ABV. Familiar notes of hessian, camphor and resinous honey qualities. Some rather pronounced nutty and milk chocolate flavours arrive in time too, which feels quite sherry-derived. Nicely herbal with wormwood and verbena in time. Finish: medium in length, warming, more dried fruits, mentholated and herbal teas, supple waxes and wood spice. Comments: I think earlier batches were a bit more luminous, but this remains extremely classy, solid mature malt whisky. I would just say the wood starts to take over ever so slightly in the finish.
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
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