
April 19, 2021

Benromach, three of them

We're going on with our exploration of the newer expressions of that 'authentic' (was that the word?) mildly smoky Speysider by G&M. Let's do this by ascending strength, while remembering that we just love the current 15. No, that was no pre-emptive remark.

Benromach 21 yo (43%, OB, +/-2020)

A blend of sherry and bourbon. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely, with roasted chestnut, pipe smoke, old coal stove, then grouse and redcurrants. There are echoes of older batches, with whiffs of leather and used matches (no plain sulphur though) and some kind of lovely exotic bouillon, with coriander, lemongrass, ginger and even lime. I think I forgot something… Ah, yes, a drop of coconut water, possibly from the bourbon wood. Drops of fattish fino sherry too (not Tio Pepe). Mouth: boy is this salty and rustic! Someone's added some salt and some pepper to some cigar ashes, some ginger and turmeric, gritty curry, cloves, bitter oranges, and almost a glass of that same fino. Salted marmalade. There is something extreme to this baby, in spite of the lower strength. Finish: very long, with more bitter marmalade and salted preserved ginger. Comments: a big boy for big boys (but of course, S.) In a way the 43% vol. are a little misleading, they should write '43% vol. but feels like 50%.' But would that be legal?
SGP:372 - 85 points.

Speaking of power…

Benromach 10 yo 2009/2019 'Batch 2' (57.1%, OB)

Right, that was still the old design. We're being sluggish with our Benromachs, are we not. I thought Batch 1 had been way too heavy and cask-driven (WF 78). Let's see… Colour: deep gold. Nose: the peat's very obvious here, with some no-less obvious coastal notes, seawater, brine, mercurochrome, celeriac perhaps. Some funny nods to young Laphroaig here. With water: we tamed it! It's not that it got crystalline and blade-y, but any thickness is gone now. Now Laphroaig is almost gone too, there's just a wee medicinal side that keeps flying over your glass. Gauze? Mouth (neat): really thick, spicy, heavy, extreme, concoctiony (S.!) and drying. Notes of strawberry syrup too. A bizarre profile, high on leather and ginger. With water: once again we tamed it, lemons and coriander are popping out, with a touch of salt, and a tiny farmy, almost Brora-y side. Could you swim from Elgin to Brora? Maybe not… Finish: long, fresh and almost refreshing when reduced. Comments: Vittel's best friend if you ask me. I'm saying Vittel because it's 'my' water during tastings and I never, ever change water. Hope the spring will never run dry.
SGP:462 - 83 points.

Benromach 9 yo 2011/2020 (60.8%, OB for France, first fill sherry, cask #39, 315 bottles)

In this very case, well, I say vive la France. And vive the Auld Alliance while we're at it. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it is rather one of these moderner ex-sherry whiskies that are full of butterscotch, which makes you wonder whether some kind of heavy charring hasn't occurred. Or a Mars bar that someone would have salted and smoked – if not deep-fried. Anyway, this works a treat and made this little beast gentler and rounder than expected. But water may change all this… With water: seawater, tonic water, a tiny bit of new leatherette, or new vinyl, petrol, spent grains, farmyard… Brilliant! Mouth (neat): high-power lemony and salty arrival, gearing towards marmalade, green pepper and pickled ginger. Big beast, big strength. With water: it just adores water. Excellent citrus, citronella, salt, and even a few drops of proper tequila. Not George's former brand mind you. The first fill sherry was under control. Finish: long, punchy, salty, slightly mashy. The kind of bottle to keep for some extra-30 years in your cellar before opening. Comments: I've tried another version last year; not too sure they weren't the same. Anyway, great young 'romach.
SGP:462 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Benromach we've tasted so far