
October 25, 2021

A trio of Glenturret

I doubt they would mash Crystal malt at Glenturret, despite the fact that their current owner also owns Lalique, including the stunning restaurant and hotel 'Villa René Lalique' in the far north of little Alsace. By the way, I've heard the new Lalique restaurant at Glenturret Distillery was pretty wonderful and I just can't wait to go try their "Cappuccino de Haggis à la Truffe" (right, I just made that one up).

Villa René Lalique, Wingen-sur-Moder

Glenturret 12 yo '2021 Release' (46%, OB)

I thought 2020's Maiden Release of the 12 was just excellent (WF 85). Colour: deep gold. Nose: on the nose it really reminds me of some ham à la diable (coated with mustard then baked) served with a wee glass of bone-dry Madeira. We're then getting more spice woods, especially juniper wood, also pine and cedar wood, then some softer, creamier custard and just a wee bag of fresh walnuts. Perhaps also bitter beer and raw cocoa powder. Very singular, which is what we enjoy. Mouth: those spicy woods are first to show up (thuja, cedar) while it's getting saltier by the second. What we sometimes call a 'manzanilla-y development'. Then rather amontillado, with something more oxidative, some tobacco… Finish: very long, this time on Fernet Branca and assorted dry herbal drinks, nutmeg, more walnuts and more manzanilla, then a little wasabi in the aftertaste. And even more walnuts. Comments: indeed, very good and extremely spicy, with a feeling of being in Jerez at times.
SGP:372 - 85 points.

In Jerez? …

Ruadh Maor 10 yo 2009/2020 (53.8%, Claxton's for Fadandel, Moscatel quarter cask, cask #156A, 178 bottles)

As you may, or may not know, Ruadh Maor is the name for Glenturret's peated version. In truth I wouldn't know whether this very 'Moscatel' was moscatel from Jerez or not. Colour: gold. Nose: actually, I'm not sure the moscatel has anything to say in this very smoke-forward combo that, at times, would remind us of Ledaig. Quite some leather, rubber boots, pinewood smoke, new tyres, sea spray, tarry ropes… With water: carbon paper, new books, tyres, rubber bands, dried kelp, a little stagnant seawater… Mouth (neat): not 100% sure, the Moscatel feels this time, there's some sweet mustard, more rubber, some demerara sugar, some salt… With water: gets frankly sweeter, we're rather having triple sec mixed with pepper and ginger liqueurs. A little rough and, as some distillers used to say fifteen years ago, 'experimental', which sometimes used to mean 'with apologies'. Finish: rathe earthier and rather mineral too. I cannot not think of some crazy official Ledaigs. Mustard in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps a little challenging?
SGP:475 - 80 points.

A very old one please…

Glenturret 35 yo (47.7%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, batch 2, 365 bottles, 2016)

Let's remember that last year's official 'Maiden Release' 30 years old was rather fantastic. Other old Glenturrets had been a tad unlikely having said that, we're talking about those that were available in the 1990s… Colour: deep gold. Nose: a tiny rubbery touch at first but that would go away in a flash, leaving a lot of room for some candied tropical fruits (crazy guavas), a large bag of coconuts, some manzanilla indeed, lime blossom, and just touches of Parmesan cheese. Indeed it's sometimes wandering on the edge but no worries, it's an excellent tightrope walker. Mouth: same feeling of an old malt that's quite unlikely, fragile and uncertain, but that's doing well. Cream cheeses, yoghurt, fermenting plums and perhaps bananas, chewing rubber bands, plasticine, some saltiness, mead and manzanilla, some grassy rum, then a little turmeric… I find it a little odd and very good. Finish: medium, on more spices, café latte, some odd brew from Starbucks' (like cinnamon in coffee), mustard and walnuts, fino… Comments: as we sometimes say, there are some very excellent flaws in this one, so I would say it is rather for the curious.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

(Merci Tim!)

Check the index of all Glenturret we've tasted so far