
February 1, 2021

A stop at Blair Athol

Emptying the 'BL' box today. Yes there's also Bladnoch but as they say, in the bible I believe, sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof. But Blair Athol, such a lovely place - such a lovely place, such a lovely place – right in Perthshire, on the road to the flock of distilleries that's located further north.

Blair Athol 9 yo 2009/2019 (50.8%, Valinch & Mallet, sherry, 638 bottles)

Blair Athol 9 yo 2009/2019 (50.8%, Valinch & Mallet, sherry, 638 bottles)
With an outturn of 638 bottles, I suppose it was a butt. Colour: gold. Nose: it's clearly a cake-y sherry, full of toasted cake, scones, Ovaltine, roasted raisins, all kind of warm pastries, all that. No quibbling so far. With water: the malted barley's popping out. In short, more Ovaltine/Ovomaltine. A very regressive thing methinks. Mouth (neat): rather tart after a rounder palate, with a lot of marmalade, then ginger cookies, nods to Pad Thai, wee touches of young artisan cognac, some very malty beer and even a little Guinness. I think I'll buy a palette of Guinness one day and distil the lot, we'll see what happens. With water: really good, fresher and fruitier than expected. I would say some slightly overburnt pear cake. Finish: rather long, a little leafier and spicier, as almost always with this set-up. Ginger, cinnamon, bay leaves… Cinnamon mints in the aftertaste. Comments: I say this is a very good sherried baby, thanks to Mr Valinch and Mrs Mallet.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Blair Athol 14 yo 2005/2019 (58.6%, Lady of the Glen, bourbon hogshead, cask #3657, 153 bottles)

These top people often had pretty tight and sometimes austere young to middle-aged malts. Looks like that's the case again here… Colour: white wine. Nose: sends shivers into your spine even before you have a single drop in your mouth, but that's not obligatorily a bad thing mind you. Bags of green lemons – tarter than lime – cider apples and starfruits covered with custard and a curious yet awesome herbal combo where I'm finding chives, mint and even a little garlic. Seriously, that's lovely. With water: yellow peaches and muesli, with bits of tangerines. Breakfast for champions – or bagpipers. Mouth (neat): textbook fresh and citrusy malt whisky from quiet refill wood. Some white pepper, more fresh herbs, and indeed, garlic. With water: a little rounder, with awesome touches of honeydew melon and just sweets. M&S assorted fruit sherbets, a shame that those are about to disappear from our shelves post-Brexit. Well I think we shall survive that challenge. Finish: medium, soft, fruity, easy. Comments: it's funny that we would remember the old official 8 yo here, but this is much better, I think. Do you remember that OB had been, very temporarily, part of the Classic Malts range?
SGP:641 - 83 points.

Blair Athol 21 yo 1996/2017 (47.8%, Aqua Vitae Whisky Selection, sherry butt, 300 bottles)

Blair Athol 21 yo 1996/2017 (47.8%, Aqua Vitae Whisky Selection, sherry butt, 300 bottles)
I believe this was bottled for Japan. The label is elegant, refined, discrete and tasteful. Makes a change. Colour: gold. Nose: it's somewhat reminiscent of the V&M but with more butterscotch and raw dry cider, which is not a very common combo. Some artisan mead too, perhaps even a quarter of a drop of balsamic vinegar, then drops of rancio too, Madeira, homemade walnut wine – not sure anyone's making that on an industrial scale anyway and that's it. Perhaps, since we're in Japan, a drop of umami sauce too. Mouth: weird. Perhaps an accident? Pepper, old beer, walnut skins, bitter almonds, leather… I find this one really challenging, now some friends are finding Ardbeg 1975 challenging too. A matter of POV. Finish: how would I describe this… Perhaps a blend of walnut stain with some kind of nutmeg infusion and pine resin? Comments: whacky malt whisky for the ueber-whisky-elite that's seen it all. So not us, my friend… But good fun for sure.
SGP:272 - 65 points.

Blair Athol 5 yo 2015/2020 (48%, Skene, sherry oloroso, cask # 900093, 246 bottles)

Boy is this young! I suppose the cask had been treated modernly (Donald!)… Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, there's cappuccino, butterscotch and fudge just everywhere in this nose and I'm sure Starbucks could sell these (at twice the price). Touches of ale too, wholegrain bread, a wee yeasty side and indeed young oloroso (walnuts). Well this style is growing on me. Never liked the idea, but I cannot deny that they now master it to near perfection. Oh well, as long as they have the age statements… Mouth: same all over again. Malty beer, shortbread, butterscotch, malt extracts, Ovaltine, café latte, pumpernickel, gingerbread… well we wanna know how they treat these casks! STR sherry? One day you'll have a special section for whisky casks at Amnesty International. Finish: same, butterscotch, ale and cinnamon with a drop of Maggi in the aftertaste. Comments: hate it that I would find it this good.
SGP:451 - 86 points.

Blair Athol 10 yo 2009/2020 (56.2%, James Eadie, recharred hogshead, cask # 307362)

Blair Athol 10 yo 2009/2020 (56.2%, James Eadie, recharred hogshead, cask # 307362)
Of course this will work. Colour: white wine. Nose: not quite a buoyant rejuvenated oak over an nondescript malty distillate here, rather a pretty soft, jammy and fruity salad that would even involve herbs. Looks like they keep perfecting the processes. Oranges, honey, sunflower oil, custard, barley water, nougat, brioche, café latte… All that works a treat. With water: more bread, grist and all that. The thing is, does the Distillery play any part? Mouth (neat): just very good, as expected. Blend freshly squeezed orange juice, natural vanilla, a pinch of ras el hanout, raisins (as in proper couscous) and just soft maize bread. I'm terribly afraid this is irresistible, unless you just hate ras el hanout, that is. No luck, I love it. With water: yeah it's just excellent, I think. Modern malt whisky with flying colours and no scruples. Finish: same. As always, the finish is a tad spicier and drier. Comments: where is Blair Athol's gentle softness? Isn't modern 'wood tehkknohlohdgy' just bulldozing any distillery styles? Is it better or worse than in-cask blending (like ex-Laphroaig casks and all that jun.. I mean jazz?) To be discussed over a glass of Champagne.
SGP:451 - 86 points.

I totally hate it that I would enjoy these modern concoctions so much. I really need a shrink. Or a last Blair Athol (for the road…)

Blair Athol 14 yo 2006/2020 (54.6%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Elixir Distillers, hogshead, cask #8002620, 326 bottles)

Elixir would usually rather select classic woods and distillate-driven bottlings. Or say 'distillery-apparent bottlings', yet a new unnecessary concept. Pff… So just like, say Cadenhead and as far as I can tell, they would rather lie on the other side of IBdom. You know, the resistance ;-). Colour: white wine. Nose: I was right (ta-dah), this is pure fruit syrup with a little honey and brown sugar. Apple, preserved pears, peaches, apricots, kiwis, muscovado sugar… With water: fresh baguette, leaven, silage, porridge, Heineken… Excuse me? Good, choose another lager yourself then (S.!) Mouth (neat): I'm not saying the hoggie played no part, naturally, and indeed there's a little 'leafy stout' from the wood, but other than that, orchard fruits are running free. Plums, apples, pears… It is almost moving. With water: it is superior. Barley syrup, preserved fruits, muesli, any fruit cereals, citrons, chalk, lemon zests… Finish: rather long, tarter, pretty nervous, refreshing, grassier. Having said that, some vanilla and coffee liqueurs and creams are occupying the aftertaste, and that's the wood. Comments: perfect, meaning without any flaws.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Very good session, but we remained a little far from the fantastic old OBs that predated the 'blue designs'. You know, the old black labels, utterly stunning whiskies. We'll have some next time.

Check the index of all Blair Athol we've tasted so far

January 2021

Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Redbreast 30 yo 1989/2020 (57.2%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Port cask, cask #38635, 444 bottles) - WF92

Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Ardbeg 10 yo (46%, OB, rotation 2003, for duty free, 1 litre)- WF90

Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Dailuaine 12 yo 2008/2020 (57.8%, Watt Whisky, 312 bottles) - WF89

Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Rum 'Mden' 1997/2020 (55.6%, The Whisky Jury, Jamaica, cask #TWJ-HA-01, 241 bottles) - WF92

Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Reimonenq 2020 'Rhum Agricole Dynamique' (50%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, 698 bottles, 2020) - WF30