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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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February 14, 2021 |
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Malternatives on Sunday
A bag of rum to celebrate… err, sugarcane |
I know I've literally floored you with that headline de la muerte. One day, they'll mention it in books and even have it on Topito: "The Ten Laziest Headline Ever". Let's see what we'd have today… |
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El Ron del Artesano 12 yo 'BA sweetwine cask' (41.4%, Riegger's Selection, Panama, cask #109-16) 
It seems that the very honourable bottlers did this cask at various strengths. Indeed this one's lighter than the 52.1% seen elsewhere (same cask number). By the way, I suppose BA, in this context, means Beerenauslese rather than British Airways. Better like that. Colour: gold. Nose: a funny two-step nose. First a gentle, classic rum that just won't tear you apart in any way (some would even say it's slightly bland) but then a lovely, delicate and pretty fragrant development on flowers and oriental cakes. Baklavas, orange blossom water, wisteria, even rose petals and Turkish delights, wondering if that BA was gewurztraminer. Or grauburgunder? Mouth: I believe the wine was clearly an asset (who said for once?) Very nice notes of apple cake, possibly more cane juice than in the original rum, with these earthy touches, and some soft liquorice and perhaps a drop of litchi juice. Finish: not long, but aromatic and balanced. Notes of Liquorice allsorts. Comments: smart and good!
SGP:541 - 84 points. |
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Rhum J.M 'Fumée Volcanique' (49%, OB, , +/-2020) 
Fumée volcanique, volcanic smoke, that will obviously appeal to any malt whisky lover – not to mention peatheads. Smoke, where? Hold on, as I understand it, this has nothing to do with smoke per se, it's just that the casks have been heavily charred. Which, as whisky folks know well, would not impart any form of smokiness to a spirit. But let's see… Colour: straw. Nose: young and fresh, with touches of rubber and aniseed, then indeed a wee smokiness, as if the casks had met some peaters in an earlier life. Some kind of STRised ex-Islay wood, perhaps? Ow the distillate feels very young and it's true that the heavily charred wood did not add to much vanilla here, let alone coconut. So, it's pretty dry. Mouth: first and foremost it is very spicy and vegetal. You'd almost believe this is verbena liqueur blended with green chartreuse and tar liqueur (goudron). Some lime too, but really not a lot of 'rhum agricole', in my opinion. Some kind of in-cask mixology? But don't get me wrong, I rather enjoy this, it's just very unusual. Finish: medium, with rather more mint and aniseed. What we call 'a perroquet', which is pastis with a dollop of mint syrup. Some rubber is back in the aftertaste. Comments: a rather cute alien, and perhaps a category on its own.
SGP:461 - 81 points. |
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Uitvlugt 20 yo 1997/2017 (56.5%, The Rum Cask, Guyana) 
I just don't remember why I had not tried this one before. Perhaps because it's got a reputation? Colour: straw. Nose: please call the Anti-Rumporn Brigade! You cannot beat a mixture that would have involved tinned anchovies, bits of bicycle inner tube, nuoc-man sauce, diesel oil, lamp petrol, tapenade, seal blubber, green olives and carbon dust. With water: just the same. Mouth (neat): extraordinarily salty, 'fishy', petroly and olive-y. You'd really believe you're on board an old fisherman's boat. From Islay, naturally. Not sure these notes of black truffles belong to that boat, having said that. With water: no changes, you just end up with more great rum in your glass. Up to a point. Finish: long, with just as much salt. Do they smoke anchovies? Comments: another very amazing Uitvlugt. I'll try the remainder with some big fat salty oysters.
SGP:363 - 91 points. |
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Hampden Estate 'Trelawny' (46%, OB, Velier, Jamaica, 2018) 
I don't think I've ever tried this one. It's all a little confusing at times… Or am I not paying attention? Colour: gold. Nose: it's a little troubling that we would not be too far from the Guyanese. This is even rather gentler, but there are olives, tar, tyres and liquorice. Some pencil shavings, cedar, lead… Some seawater too, while it would rather be an easier Hampden, globally. On the nose. Right. Mouth: easy? Not quite, as it would roar this time, feeling stronger than just forty-six, with rather a lot of rotting fruits (bananas), plus the harshest oils and always these salty fish, sardines, anchovies, olives. Yeah I know olives do not quite live in the high seas. Anyway, great Hampden, especially when you've had enough toying with water, pipettes or coffee spoons. As they all say, 'we did it for you'. Finish: really long, really salty, really tarry, and with a few drops of lemon juice for good mesure. Comments: I find it quite amazing that both profiles would be this close. Great rum that needs neither extra-volts, nor extra-watts.
SGP:363 - 89 points. |
As on any Sunday, we'll have five tipples. Let me pick #5 very carefully… |
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Monymusk 12 yo 2007/2019 (49.5%, Silent Ambassador, Jamaica, 126 bottles)
We've already tried some great ones from this range, especially an Uitvlugt 1997. Uitvlugt 1997? Rings a bell… Colour: white wine. Nose: at the Old Harbour in Marseilles. Indeed that would involve the right amount of fish and… pastis. Also fresh paint, tyres again, seawater, also some orchard fruits such as apples and pears, a wee bit of barbecued marshmallow (ever been a boy scout?) and perhaps a tiny touch of new leatherette. A drop of cologne: Acqua di Gio? Mouth: very good, goes extremely well after the Hampden and would explain that Monymusk is dirtier, more rubbery, certainly more on plastics and, as we sometimes write, 'new electronics'. Big saltiness again, fish and old tarry ropes on a boat, whelks (love love love whelks). I know not many people love whelks, that's why they're cheap ;-). Finish: long, very salty and very dry. Would be challenging to many, I think. The tarry side is just huge. Only the aftertaste is a tad 'too' dirty, with a feeling of having swallowed an iPhone 12 Pro Max. Comments: I love this but wouldn't argue if someone would claim that it's a little difficult. It is, and?
SGP:363 - 88 points. |
Another good session. Happy Sunday! |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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