
September 19, 2019

Three indie Macallan

What’s really cool with the indie Macallans is that they all come with proper age and vintage statements. Would you ever buy a sportscar without knowing about the engine’s capacity ? Pomerol without a vintage ?

Macallan 26 yo 1992/2018 (50.9%, Luci di Gala, hogshead, 1st fill Château Lafite finish)

Looks like Luci di Gala are Jewellers in Hong Kong and apparently, they’re into whisky too. And Macallan, baby. Why this has been finished in red wine remains a mystery, perhaps is the name ‘Lafite’ alone worth it ? And more appealing than just ‘Macallan’? Colour: amber. Nose: there is a red-wine-ness inded, but it seems that it’s under control and not bursting with red fruits, rather oranges and rosehip tea. A little ganache-y, going more towards marshmallows and jelly beans after that. Cola. We’re pretty far from any classic Macallan this far, I have to say. With water: more game, chicken soup, paraffin, balsamico… More and more balsamico, actually, and orange wine (wine made out of oranges, that is). Mouth (neat): more or less the same feelings, oranges and spices, bonbons, angelica, sour apples, Coca Cola, and a super thin slice of fruitcake covered with a little cinnamon and liquorice sauce. Wood shavings. Let’s remember this is 1st fill Lafite wood, while Lafite would only fill their barriques once, so it’s pretty active wood. By the way I’m surprised the whisky’s not frankly red/purple. With water: as often with red-wined whiskies, it gets very dry and grassy. Bags of raw cocoa powder. Finish: long, dry, chocolaty. We’re not talking sugarbombs from the nearest supermarket. Comments: looks like it’s been doing pretty good despite the unlikely wine treatment. Let’s say we’ve tasted much, much worse, so, kudos (in a way).
SGP:361 - 85 points.

Macallan-Glenlivet 30 yo 1988/2019 (42.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon barrel, 96 bottles)

Not sure this new baby’s to be seen anywhere… Not 100% sure about the outturn by the way. Colour: gold. Nose: there, proof that Macallan could be a wonderful distillate, with or without proper sherry. Pretty fantastic praline, apple pie, marzipan, tobacco, a drop of gravy (not lumpy, you Zappaists), then rather fresh mint, camphor, balms, even pine needles, that walk in the woods when it’s raining, et tutti quanti. Very distinguished. Mouth: the oak’s already started to take over, but it’s like John Coltrane’s latest lost tapes, not his best, but still the real thing. Not too sure it’s the same with Miles’ latest, by the way. As often with these woody old whiskies with lower strength, pine-y flavours are now running the show. Pinesap, resins, needles… But then again, the distillate keeps singing loud and clear in the background. Wonderful notes of mocha. Finish: medium, dry as expected, but clean and not too drying. Not a cinnamon shop, as they say. Comments: all is well and very good, and some would even argue that this is ‘a proper, legitimate style’. I rather agree.
SGP:371 - 88 points.

Speyside 30 yo 1988/2019 (53,7%, Le Gus’t, blended malt, sherry butt, cask#15A/105, 518 bottles)

My money says this is actually ‘teaspooned’ Macallan. There are currently others similar babies around, but naturally, no one will tell you the truth about them (or only after a few dry martinis in a hotel bar, which takes some credibility away anyway). Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s rather rawer than the others but that’s most probably the higher strength. Other than that’s, we’re rather on cakes, cappuccino, marmalade, raisins, cedar wood, and touches of wood smoke, which is certainly not unseen in Macallan. With water: these whiffs of gunpowder are rather classic Mac as well. Chocolate and a pinhead of Marmite. Mouth (neat): very good, big, rather sharp, and rather on marmalade and marzipan, plus touches of paraffin and tonic wine. I’m sure water will bring it straight to classic Macallandom… With water: bingo. Black raisins, chocolate, perhaps a drop of old Armagnac (Macallan was always pretty brandy-y anyway, was it not?) and even prunes. Macallan as in the old books (websites did not quite exist back then ha-ha). Finish: long and even more chocolaty. Comments: perhaps the best recent M******n I’ve tried so far, but I haven’t tried the latest 72 yo La Clique yet. I mean, Lalique. You just have to enjoy proper chocolate.
SGP:451 - 91 points.

(thank you Fuji!)

Check the index of all Macallan we've tasted so far