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November 21, 2024 |
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More Secret Whiskies
Sometimes, you have an inkling of what it might be, but there’s nothing on the label to confirm it. Fortunately, the name of the bottlers is often there to reassure us. In the end, which is better: an unknown malt from a reputable house or a well-known malt with an average reputation? |
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Theia 1 11 yo 2010/2011 (52.8%, Scotch Universe, Highlands single malt, first fill PX hogshead) 
A nod in the direction of Teaninich, I suspect. Colour: gold. Nose: the sherry influence has imparted earthy undertones, fallen leaves, bay leaf, and hints of old copper coins and well-used tools tucked away in the basement, plus a touch of walnut wine (or Nusswasser). With water: still spicy but increasingly layered with bitter oranges, marmalade, and cherry stems. Mouth (neat): a dry sherry profile, slightly brusque yet enjoyable, offering notes of pepper, tobacco, and leather. With water: a more pronounced fruitiness emerges, featuring pepper-dusted figs alongside leather and orange zest. Finish: long, retaining its spiciness and leafy character, with a hint of fresh green wood and a touch of bitter beer. Comments: charming in its own way, albeit a touch rustic—it doesn't aim for that plush, cosseting comfort, if you catch my drift.
SGP:461 - 83 points. |
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Peated Billy G 9 yo 2013/2023 (50%, Claxton’s Exploration Series, Blended Malt, bourbon barrel) 
All signs point towards this being a Dalrymple, the trade name for William ‘Billy’ Grant’s Ailsa Bay. Colour: white wine. Nose: smoked Williams pears over beechwood, with sage leaves, mint, borage, a touch of charcoal, tallow, small green apples, and a whisper of mezcal. With water: takes on a hint of crushed slate. Mouth (neat): sharp, well-defined peat with a distinctly herbal edge, modelling clay, paraffin, and mustard. With water: delightful, leaning a bit medicinal with notes of mouthwash, ashes, mild mustard, walnuts, curry, and manzanilla sherry. Finish: fairly long, drier, peppery, and smoky. Comments: I must say, these indie Ailsa Bays making the rounds lately are quite impressive. They could greatly bolster the distillery’s reputation over there at Girvan—if only the name weren’t kept under wraps.
SGP:455 - 86 points. |
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Peated Highland 22 yo 2000/2023 (54%, Watt Whisky, sherry hogshead, 294 bottles) 
A peated Highland distilled in 2000—could it be an Ardmore? Colour: amber. Nose: I’m not convinced it’s Ardmore; there’s too much of that old metal, dried mushrooms, peppered smoke, lamp oil, leather and tobacco, sheep tallow, paprika, and peppermint. It feels more like we’re near Fort William, with that delightfully chaotic mix of aromas we cherish. With water: the unmistakable scent of resinous wood burning nearby. Mouth (neat): sulphurous, peppery, meaty, and mentholated… it’s quite intense and wonderfully discordant, reminiscent of the Sun Ra Arkestra—truly, space is the place. With water: notes of waxes, green walnuts, varnish and glues, dark tobacco (like Italian Toscani cigars), and broth. Finish: long, with the same flavours shuffled into a different order, finishing on tobacco and aged walnut. Comments: utterly bonkers, and that’s precisely what we love about it. Flirting with the 90s.
SGP:474 - 89 points. |
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A Speyside Distillery 31 yo 1992/2023 ‘A Marriage of Casks’ (48.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland)
Colour: straw. Nose: showcases the quintessential style adored by the brand’s proprietors—think Imperial, Tauchers, Keith, and of course, Tormore. There’s a touch of old wood (painted surfaces, ripe banana, almond milk), followed by a bag of fully ripened apples, honey mead, beeswax, broom flowers, a hint of kirsch, and small wild plums. It’s utterly charming, carrying a subtle, delicate fragility that’s quite moving—yes, really. Mouth: like a handful of jellybeans that have weathered thirty years, alongside a bit of fudge, hops, buttercream, blueberry muffins, and—unexpectedly—two or three winkles (where did those come from?). It’s an intriguing mishmash but consistently gentle. The apple note swoops in to restore order at the end. Finish: lovely, featuring apple syrup, pink grapefruit, a hint of green anise, and a return of hops and honey. Comments: quite imperial in nature, but more Sissi than Franz Joseph. Make of that what you will.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
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Images of Loch Ness (53.2%, Malts of Scotland, Corona Edition, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 22014, 249 bottles, 2022)
Featuring the Point of Ayre Lighthouse on the label—hold on, that’s on the Isle of Man! Must ask Ralfy if there’s a distillery there now. Colour: white wine. Nose: delightful indeed. Mint scones, pineapple-banana cake, macarons, nougat… not a single off-note so far, but what exactly is this? With water: malt returns, with barley and cakes in tow. Mouth (neat): bursts with fruit syrups, fruit salad, fresh mint leaves, pears, mandarins, and little fruit candies, followed by a touch of allspice. I’m quite taken by it. With water: oh yes, very nice. Fruits, leaves, peels, pips, juices, and compotes all make an appearance. Finish: much the same, more or less, with hints of white wine—perhaps a touch of Pinot Blanc? Comments: a lovely, fruity NAS that just happened to cross our path.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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Highland Single Malt 1996/2017 (52.7%, Or Sileis, sherry, cask #13, 180 bottles)
Sorry, couldn’t find a better picture, in case you have one…Colour: deep gold. Nose: wax and walnuts. Could this be a Clynelish? With water: metal polish, old pennies, aged fabric, and geranium potting soil. Mouth (neat): classic notes of marmalade, walnuts, tangerines, green pepper, a hint of salt, and that dual-natured character typical of Clynelish matured in sherry during this era. With water: now I’m not so sure—it turns notably saline for a Clynelish and could well be Ben Nevis from Fort William, again. Finish: long, salty, with notes of leather and black tea. Comments: the cask influence makes the distillate less distinct. At this point, I’d lean towards Ben Nevis. Only fools don’t change their minds, do they say in DC.
SGP:462 - 86 points. |
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Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 10 yo ‘Cask Strength batch 09’ (55.6%, Atom, Islay single malt, bourbon & sherry, 550 bottles, 2024)
Batch 9 already! This series has piqued curiosity since its debut, and rightly so. Of course, one can simply enjoy drinking them... Colour: gold. Nose: intensely saline and thoroughly maritime. Think oysters with a splash of Tabasco and extra-brut champagne. The sherry influence is subtle. With water: evokes a beachside bonfire, fuelled by dried seaweed and driftwood. Mouth (neat): pure, fruity, saline peat. Notes of lemon, limoncello, seawater, green pepper, and a host of smoked elements. With water: mellows out a touch, becoming slightly oily, with hints of toasted sesame oil. Finish: smooth, rounded, effortlessly drinkable, with a touch of chocolate. The sherry starts to show itself here. Comments: really fond of this batch.
SGP:566 - 86 points. |
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Secret Island Distillery 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.5%, Discovery of the Abyss, #1, 115 bottles)
A whimsical nod to the deep seas—do look up Chauliodus sloani for a touch of intrigue. Colour: white wine, pale and inviting. Nose: quintessentially pure barley with a delightful waft of overripe apples, the invigorating tang of sea breezes, a whisper of cigarette tobacco, and a drizzle of heather honey that inevitably brings Highland Park to mind. With water: a curious blend of carbon, well-worn brake pads, honey, a gleaming new iPhone, and, naturally, those softened, near-forgotten apples. Mouth (neat): honey mingling with seawater, striking that perfect balance of sweet and brine—effortlessly harmonious, poised, never straying into indulgence. You catch my drift. With water: splendidly more herbaceous and intricate, a light touch of rubber, and a resinous hint that straddles propolis and hashish. Finish: long and beautifully saline, underscored by tar, pine resin, and honey—back to that heather honey, naturally. Comments: quite exceptional, this discreet northern island malt; it holds its secrets quite well.
SGP:552 - 89 points. |
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November 20, 2024 |
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Two Opposing Deanstons
Deanston has been quite entertaining lately, with their ultra-creative (and sometimes improbable) finishes. We're eagerly awaiting the cod liver oil finish, but in the meantime, we'll be tasting two small independent releases. We do enjoy tasting Deanston, in just any case. |
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Deanston 11 yo ‘The Devil’s Bunghole Edition 001’ (50.1%, Naughty Fun, D&M Winchester, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #900258, 2024)
With official tasting notes such as ‘Clyde estuary water’, ‘William Wallace’s inescapable musk’, or ‘Not sh*te’, it’s clear that a) this is not an official bottling, b) nobody here is taking themselves too seriously, c) commercial ambitions are modest, and d) the whole concept was likely put together on a Friday night after a bit of pub crawling. We can only approve, especially since the ‘Edition 001’ label still exudes a certain swagger. Colour: amber. Nose: they’ve certainly pushed the envelope, so to speak, but surprisingly, it’s really not that bad—in fact, quite the opposite. The oloroso comes through with an almost graceful touch, without any hints of gas, rotten egg, aged truffle, or leek and cabbage soup, nor the scent of a rugby locker room post third half. It’s almost misleading advertising, wouldn’t you say? (we can joke too, ha-ha). In any case, a lovely oloroso profile with nuts, praline, tobacco, and coffee, along with a touch of liquorice wood—admittedly a bit excessive—and most notably, a cedar box of fifty large Cuban cigars. The kind the devil himself might smoke. With water: more cracked black pepper and bitter chocolate, but still no truly diabolical aromas. Mouth (neat): lots of walnut and tobacco, a bit over the top but surely appealing to many aficionados. Spicy marmalade, a saline touch, soy sauce, and a hint of leather. With water: excellent, by Beelzebub! Pepper, tobacco, juniper, and bitter almonds. Finish: long, fruitier with blood orange and a touch of Campari, then more pepper. That Campari note—now that’s devilish. Comments: an absolute scandal. Usually, whiskies are much worse than their tasting notes on the label suggest, but here, it’s quite the reverse. I’ll be seeing my lawyer first thing tomorrow morning about this; unless, of course, he’s already on the golf course. On a Thursday. As usual.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
Right, some ex-bourbon to recover... |
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Deanston 12 yo 2011/2023 (59.9%, A.D. Rattray, bourbon barrel, cask #800049, 208 bottles)
Well, here we have quite the opposite indeed, or so it seems… Colour: white wine. Nose: always a pleasure to confirm that Deanston shines at its natural best, unadorned and unaltered. Delightful notes of peanut oil, green apple juice, honeysuckle, and jasmine, with a touch of gooseberry. It feels nicely textured while remaining fresh, cheerful, and invigorating. With water: turns slightly cloudy, releasing paraffin, candle wax, and a hint of fresh coriander, mercifully without soapiness. Mouth (neat): crisp, taut, fruity, impeccable. Truly spot on, with green apple juice, melon, and lemon, spiced with pepper, liquorice, and nutmeg, plus a hint of wild thyme (softer than common thyme) and dill. With water: waxiness re-emerges, accompanied by white pepper and coriander seed. Lovely mouthfeel, though it sacrifices a touch of its fruitiness when diluted (alas, we cannot linger as long as one might wish when reducing our drams). Finish: long, with a return of lemon and green apples. Splendid. Comments: thrilled to have found the perfect counterpoint to the Devil’s own Deanston. Loved both the same, in the end.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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November 19, 2024 |
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Quelques Kilkerran
We've put the title in French because it gives us an alliteration, which is the favourite crutch of authors who are either pretty lousy or very tired. There we have it. Aside from that, we are set to taste some Springbank soon, but today we’d rather savour its younger sibling, Glengyle/Kilkerran, which was refurbished and relaunched in 2004, if memory serves me right. By the way, while independent Springbank bottlings are easy to come by – often pricey but excellent – I don’t think I’ve ever managed to come across an independent Kilkerran, apart from those by WM Cadenhead, of course. |
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Kilkerran 8 yo ‘Sherry Cask Matured’ (57.4%, OB, oloroso, 2024)
We were quite taken by the 2022 release (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: this is by no means a heavy, smothering oloroso; rather, it opens with gunflint and smoked ham, followed by stewed rhubarb and white currants, bringing a lovely freshness. A touch of tobacco, coffee, and leather, but all handled with a light touch. With water: notes of lemon and a hint of lard, chalk, courgette flower, and raw wool (let’s say a new jumper from your favourite label—Gucci, if you must). Mouth (neat): immensely powerful yet lively and refined, with a saline and mineral profile reminiscent of certain finos. Tobacco and a rooty character (gentian, celery). With water: superbly salty, with kirsch, green peppercorns, and bitter almonds—my favourites. Finish: long, echoing those mineral smoky notes. Comments: not a single reason to deviate from the score of two years ago. I do quite like this tense, vibrant sherry.
SGP:563 - 88 points. |
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Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated Batch 10’ (57.8%, OB, 2024)
Predominantly ex-bourbon (90%). While NAS, the pricing remains fair if the quality holds up (€65-70). Colour: light gold. Nose: fresher than its sherried counterpart and distinctly youthful, with hints of medicinal alcohol, tincture of iodine, damp earth, a fair amount of baker’s yeast, and lime juice. The peat is notably less aggressive than the ‘heavily peated’ moniker might suggest. With water: much the same, with young spirit notes, bandages, and a touch of antiseptic (mercurochrome). Mouth (neat): youthful, showcasing eau-de-vie (Gravenstein apples), lemon, green pepper, and unripe walnuts. Slightly sharp. With water: that eau-de-vie quality persists, bordering on new-make, which, I must admit, has its charm. Fresh mushrooms make an appearance, while the peat stays relatively restrained. Finish: long, youthful, lemony, with walnut and apple peel. Comments: I do enjoy this, though a touch more maturity would elevate it further. Not overly ferocious, either.
SGP:555 - 85 points. |
And last year’s while we’re at it… |
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Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated Batch 9’ (59.2%, OB, 2023)
Let's see if we are close, very close, or extremely close—purely in the name of scientific inquiry, naturally. Colour: light gold. Nose: we are indeed very close, with this batch offering a touch more fruitiness (pear) and slightly less medicinal edge. Less tincture of iodine and mercurochrome, if you like. With water: notes of damp earth and baker’s yeast appear, alongside a hint of vanilla. Mouth (neat): even closer to Batch 10 here, with the same fresh, oily peat, slightly vegetal (rapeseed oil perhaps?) and a bright squeeze of lemon. It’s genuinely enjoyable. With water: truly delightful, zesty, and lemony with a ‘green’ sort of peatiness—if that makes sense. It’s more medicinal on the palate than it is on the nose. Finish: a touch of boot polish, hints of lime liqueur and green pepper, smoke, and a dash of amaro. Comments: simply very good. When holding both glasses side by side, I have a slight preference for Batch 9 over Batch 10, but they are very close.
SGP:555 - 86 points. |
While we're at it, again purely for scientific purposes... |
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Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated – Peat in Progress - Batch 5’ (57.7%, OB, 2021)
Peat in Progress? An intriguing notion, isn’t it? One wonders if it refers to an incremental infusion of peaty water into the casks or the addition of peat-like precursors during wort or wash stages. Colour: pale straw. Nose: this batch leans towards a richer, more oil-laden profile, adorned with subtle floral hints and a touch of furniture polish. Surprisingly, it comes across as more refined and even a tad more mature than later batches, such as 9 and 10. With water: we return to that rugged style familiar from previous editions, evoking freshly shorn sheep’s wool and a chalky minerality. Mouth (neat): a thoroughly enjoyable dram, exhibiting a sharper, greener, and distinctly peppery character, with lively lemon zest. With water: perhaps my favourite iteration, though narrowly so. The profile becomes cleaner and reveals fewer immature notes, though I must say, youth is not typically bothersome to me. Finish: briny whispers of seawater, crisp green apples, and a touch of bitter herbs – undeniably appealing. Comments: without the earlier batches on hand, one might be tempted to wonder if this could flirt with the 90-point border. Nevertheless, it’s clear that all three releases are excellent in their own right.
SGP:555 – 87 points. |
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November 18, 2024 |
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A duo of Cragganmore and a rare bonus |
Let's be clear right away, we are very pleased to see a few independent Cragganmore releases again over the past two or three years. Today, we’ll be tasting two of them, as they’re not exactly in abundance, and we'll take the opportunity to add a bonus whose only connection to Cragganmore is that it starts and ends with the same letters. It’s a bit of an oddity, but waiting for a proper sparring partner could take months and months, especially as the distillery has been closed for a long time.
(Convalmore Distillery, Anne Burgess geograph.co.uk) |
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Cragganmore 1989/2023 (45.8%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 23003, 120 bottles) 
What a splendid series these ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland continue to be! As far as Cragganmore is concerned, I believe 1989 is the vintage most frequently encountered among independent bottlers over the past two decades or so—though I’m not suggesting it’s abundant. Incidentally, the recent 1985 COD for Wu Dram Clan and HK was superb (WF 91). Colour: deep gold. Nose: it opens like an old Armagnac, believe it or not, with sumptuous sultanas and prunes upfront before transitioning into a maltier realm filled with chocolate, chicory, coffee, muesli, toasted brioche, and turrón. In essence, the makings of a champion’s breakfast, as they say in those TV ads. Mouth: mirrors that old Armagnac vibe before veering confidently into aged malt territory, highlighted by properly heavy Italian espresso (‘or is not coffee’, as our Italian friends keep reminding us). A touch of leather and tobacco follows, leading gracefully to robust black tea. Finish: long, indeed, with dominant notes of strong black tea and slightly burnt, bitter caramel. That familiar turrón then asserts itself, accompanied by hints of bitter oranges. Comments: not overly complex, but perfectly constructed and reminiscent of the official bottlings from a few years back, those at the dawn of the Classic Malts era.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Cragganmore 31 yo 1989/2020 (54.7%, The First Editions, Hunter Laing, refill hogshead, cask #HL17820, 242 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: immensely interesting, as it highlights how sherry can both elevate a whisky to something truly exceptional while occasionally suppressing the intricacies of the distillate. Here, we’re all about finesse: delicate fruits, white and yellow berries, blossoms, and herbs, with a hint of varnish and a subtly ‘deviant’ quality (in the best way), akin to dandelion honey. If you haven’t smelled that, do try—it’s quite unlike the flower itself. There’s an evolving resemblance to a lightly macerated white wine, or at least one that’s been stirred on the lees. Chardonnay comes to mind. It’s a joy to drift into the world of wine here. With water: waxiness reminiscent of Clynelish! It only gets better… Mouth (neat): superbly focused on citrus, and small, slightly bitter apples and pears. Nothing more, nothing less at first. With water: could we double-check the cask stencil or the barcode? Blindfolded, I’d guess Clynelish, circa 1983. Finish: long, full of wax and white fruits, with that distinctive touch of cédrat. I told you—Clynelish vibes. Comments: sublime, with an extra point or two for its aromatic lineage. Another malt to challenge your whisky-loving friends in a blind tasting.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Convalmore 39 yo 1984/2024 (51.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, refill sherry hogshead, cask #1733, 108 bottles)
Rather characteristic of Gordon & MacPhail not to wait for this dram to hit a more symbolic forty years before bottling, a step many others might have taken. And at 51.1%, it's certainly not a question of low ABV compelling an early release. Convalmore, let’s remember, met its end in 1985 during the industry's second wave of closures, the buildings being now part of the William Grant complex in Dufftown. And could there be wax here as well? Colour: light mahogany. Nose: an intriguing old bourbon-like quality emerges, filled with macarons and a hint of wood glue, soon followed by a large bag of assorted nuts—including the bag itself (think burlap)—and a waft of rose petals. It's a captivating nose, transporting one straight to the shores of the Bosphorus with a plate of Turkish delight. Not much wax so far. With water: notes of balsamic, strong coffee, and walnut husk join the mix. Simply magnificent. Mouth (neat): reminiscent of venerable VORS sherry, old Maury, chocolate infused with brandy, maple syrup, fig jam, and even dulce de leche with a hint of honeyed sweet tea. It certainly speaks volumes. With water: prune soaked in brandy, aged plum, a touch of mint, black tea, and even a hint of broth for good measure. Noticeably drier than anticipated from the nose. Finish: sweetness makes a comeback in the form of sultanas. Yet, oddly enough, any hint of wax seems absent, perhaps is it deftly hidden behind the rather sumptuous sherry. Final flourish of candied oranges. Comments: tasted blind, without the Convalmore profile fresh in mind, and considering the sherry's prominent voice, one might have guessed an old 'D' from the Cromarty Firth. Richly laden, but utterly top-notch.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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November 17, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A Few More Rums from Colombia to Jamaica
90% of the rums we taste are exceptional, which can falsely create the impression that rum, in general, is superior to whisky. This is why we make a point of also tasting, as often as possible, very 'commercial' rums, usually as an aperitif. Like this one... |
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Coloma 8 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2023) 
We had tasted this one about eight years ago, and back then it was exceedingly sweet (WF 50). Still, hope springs eternal, as one might say, especially if one believes in the constant forward march of humanity (right?). Colour: gold. Nose: molasses honey, caramel, and some somewhat pleasant hints of genuine honey (crafted by actual bees, six legs, four wings and all). By the way, ever wondered how to tell an insect from the bee family apart from a fly? Flies have two wings, while bees sport four. Yes, I’m padding a bit here, as there’s not a great deal to say about this modest rum. Mouth: crammed with sugar. Coffee liqueur, sugarcane syrup. To its credit, it does at least carry a hint of sugarcane. Finish: short, with some tannins and powdered coffee. Comments: I’m consistent with my former impressions. You’d need vast amounts of ice to brave this drink without flinching.
SGP:830 - 50 points. |
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Indonesia 8 yo 2015/2024 (59.9%, LMDW Flag Series, 195 bottles)
Molasses distilled in pot stills. I suppose one could just as well call this a ‘Batavia Arrack’. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s quite distinctive, opening with notes of rain-soaked gravel and a touch of saltpetre, before revealing fresh sugarcane and quality green tea. There’s a subtle hint of cider vinegar and sage, perhaps. The very high ABV may be holding it back somewhat. With water: brimming with unusual herbs, almost like those found in herbal liqueurs. Picture a chartreuse with not a single gram of sugar. A touch of forest floor. Mouth (neat): unusual again, slightly lemony and vinegary, but also showing hydrocarbons, varnish, and even a touch of shellfish. I assure you. With water: similar impressions of an herb blend, with coriander, basil, sage, bay leaf, lemon mint… Finish: fairly long, fresh, and with more aniseed. Comments: genuinely a different style. Worth discovering.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
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Trinidad Distillers Limited 13 yo 2009/2023 (58%, Dràm Mor, Trinidad, bourbon, cask #2, 305 bottles)
Over time, we’ve learned that, much like Caroni, TDL showcases various styles, ranging from fruity powerhouses to spirits laden with esters, tar, and… diesel fuel. Colour: dark gold. Nose: we’re in somewhat of a middle ground here—it’s neither mango eau-de-vie nor North Sea crude oil (nor American fracking output). Let’s see what water brings… With water: delightful damp earth, a stroll through an eucalyptus forest, and a touch of fresh rubber. Mouth (neat): excellent! Saltier and tarrier, with an explosion of salted liquorice at the forefront. With water: superb, saline and lemony, still brimming with hefty doses of liquorice, tar, rubber, and pepper. Finish: long, fairly dry, dominated by salmiak and a hint of varnish. Comments: if they’ve used this cask, once emptied, to finish whiskies, it’s bound to be explosive! Not overly complex, but thoroughly excellent. And £70 on release.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
Let's see the difference with Caroni (any excuse will do, really) … |
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Caroni 1995/2022 (62.9%, The Colours of Rum, Trinidad, N°4, 250 bottles, 163 bottles)
A blend of contrasts, matured 11 years in ex-rum casks on-site before spending 12 more years in Europe within an ex-whisky cask. That last part aside, this should hold all the quintessential Caroni markers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: not vastly dissimilar to others, yet here we find an even stronger hit of petrol and adhesive, notably powerful at this striking ABV. Hints of anti-rust paint and carbolineum lend an industrial edge. With water: icy mint and high-quality polish come forward. Mouth (neat): surprisingly fermentative with an unexpected touch of aged cheeses like Mimolette and Parmesan; the high ABV does distort matters a touch. With water: salted liquorice returns, alongside a refreshing squeeze of lemon juice and a grassy touch. This one’s no laughing matter. Finish: exceptionally long, turning a bit medicinal with a lingering interplay of black pepper, paint, and sea salt. Comments: undoubtedly splendid, though slightly severe and just a touch challenging.
SGP:463 - 89 points. |
I feel like tasting this... |
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Black Rock 2000/2012 (57.7%, L’Esprit, Barbados, bourbon, cask #2, 100 bottles)
This young rum comes from the West India Rum Distillery, also known as WIRD, bottled before its acquisition by Maison Ferrand. Colour: white wine. Nose: unmistakably pot still, with lovely notes of oil paint and turpentine, complemented by unusual hints of seeds—possibly soybeans? Definitely caraway. Rare and charming at this stage. Why hadn’t I tried this sooner? (Lazy Whiskyfun…) With water: gains a slightly metallic note, so caution with dilution, but rewarded with splendid tangerine aromas. Mouth (neat): superb and distinctive, sitting between artisanal pastis and mustard, something that would even suit sushi. With water: be sparing; it turns soapy easily. Still, those fine tangerine and chen-pi notes reappear. Finish: long, elegant, and still quite distinctive, with caraway and anise lending a refreshing touch. Comments: more delicate than BlackRock, and genuinely superb.
SGP: 462 - 88 points. |
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Uitvlugt 33 yo 1990/2024 (51.3%, Decadent Drinks, Rum Sponge, Guyana, refill rum barrel, Ed.26, 182 bottles)
This rum, early landed, spent most of its ageing time in Europe, which does include the UK. Colour: straw. Nose: an intriguing mix of sweet crab, tarragon, kumquats, shoe polish, lanoline, and a dash of yuzu. It’s begun to ‘decompose’ in the most positive way, meaning the rougher, heavier elements (which we do appreciate) are evolving into subtler, more refined tones—much like a 30-year-old Islay, if you will. With water: the full spectrum of shoe polishes emerges, from the most sophisticated (fit for John Lobb) to the more rugged (fit for the field). Mouth (neat): magnificent and classic, with the wood imparting plenty of conifer resins while maintaining elegance. A lemony, saline liquorice underpins the profile, supported by notes of olives and tar. With water: airy, mentholated citrus appears, and that delightful old herbal liqueur quality shines through—gentian included. Finish: not immensely long, but fair for its 33 years, leaving behind a splendid lemony salinity. Comments: simply a great spirit, nearly akin to a much aged, say Caol Ila.
SGP: 562 - 91 points. |
Here you go, a young one, just to see… |
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Guyana Rum 12 yo 2011/2024 ‘MDB2M’ (57.1%, Watt Whisky, Scotch whisky barrel, 264 bottles)
From Diamond, obviously. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is a rather fruit-forward Guyanese, bursting with ripe papayas, bananas, and sweet apples, with sugarcane syrup and a touch of orange juice playing softly in the background. It doesn’t seem to stem from one of those legendary old stills collected at Diamond, but then again, one could be mistaken. It leans more towards a 'grain' profile than a 'malt', if you catch my drift. Still, it’s exceedingly pleasant. With water: aromas of warm brioche and fougasse, with subtle hints of liquorice wood. Mouth (neat): sweet and fruity, yet robust enough, featuring lime and a hint of liquorice. With water: oranges come to the forefront, sharpening the overall profile and adding a lovely tension. Finish: medium in length, showcasing sugarcane syrup and orange liqueur, with a whisper of salt in the aftertaste. Comments: a delicious and charming rum, easy-going yet distinguished. It holds its own remarkably well, even after a 33-year-old Uitvlugt.
SGP:541 - 85 points. |
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Hampden Estate ‘1753’ (46%, OB, 12,000 bottles, 2024)
This one’s an HLCF. While I’m not a huge advocate for prominently displayed ‘vintage’ years that stretch the imagination (though it’s common practice among the Scots and the Japanese too), Hampden can do what it pleases and rightly so. Naturally, the rational mind knows 1753 isn’t the vintage here, but marketing has never been aimed at the rational mind, has it? Enough musings—on we go… Colour: light gold. Nose: oh yes, undoubtedly, unmistakably, indisputably Hampden at its finest. Mouth: tar, ashes, liquorice, rotting bananas, olives, with a cheeky sip of riesling to tie it together. But of course. Finish: long, saline, maritime, tar-laden. Those olives linger beautifully in the aftertaste. Comments: remarkably fresh for a 1753 (oh, how droll!). In all seriousness, it’s flawless and outstanding value at 60€. Thank goodness for the generous 12,000 bottles. Think Ardbeg 10, Springbank 10—cut from the same cloth.
SGP:464 - 89 points. |
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Monymusk 23 yo 1998/2022 ‘MBK’ (57.1%, Rest & Be Thankful, Jamaica, American oak barrel, 205 bottles)
This appears to be a low-ester Monymusk, with the 'MBK' designation suggesting just that. Right then... Colour: pale gold. Nose: you’ll never find complete absence of carbon, tar, or varnish in these Jamaicans, but here we’re far from pure acetone. Green apples and underripe bananas, white asparagus, a whisper of oyster sauce, pine needles, and then simply a platter of a dozen oysters with seaweed and lemon. Truth be told, it’s a stunningly complex nose. With water: low tide in Brittany, if you like. Mouth (neat): exceptional. Time to summon the Anti-Rumporn Brigade. Sea water, a respectable grüner veltliner, lemon, gently smoked oysters, ashes... Proof indeed that it’s not all about esters, as the content here is said to be around 75 grams per HLPA – barely anything. With water: marvellous, though do mind the water; too much and it swiftly loses its spark. Finish: rather long, perhaps not its most show-stopping aspect. It loses a point – dura lex, sed lex. Comments: a little gem, one I should have sampled sooner. If only we had more tasting slots...
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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November 15, 2024 |
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Mixtures, wine, and secrets
You know what I mean—things where you're not quite sure if it's beef or horse, or cat or rabbit (adapting to the new Western governance, as you can see). Or whisky or wine... |
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Creag Dhu (40.2%, OB, Speyside single malt, oloroso, circa 2022?) 
A whisky from a mysterious Speyside distillery, seemingly aimed at supporting the conservation of Scottish peatlands. Naturally, one can safely assume not a wisp of peat smoke graces this dram. Admittedly, the ‘fake decimals’ trend can raise eyebrows, a ploy many distilleries employ to evoke the impression of a cask-strength presentation, though rounding would suffice within regulations. We make an exception for those translating bygone proof measures—80, 90, 100—who are more archivists than marketers. Colour: gold. Nose: overripe apple mingles with a touch of slightly rancid butter, malt, and a hint of cider—surprisingly agreeable. Mouth: indeed, rather pleasant, with a delightful malty character, a touch of minerality, and notes of herbal infusions and mid-tier English tea (the sort found in travel-exclusive shops at a premium). Finish: yes, quite good; more overripe apples, orange cordial, and a smattering of sultanas make a return. Comments: I anticipated something lacklustre and uninspiring. Not so.
SGP:451 - 79 points. |
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Canmore (40%, Charles Edge London, single malt, bourbon & sherry, circa 2023) 
Delightfully reminiscent of a 1980s bottling, this release even nods to Malcolm III, King of Scots from 1051 to 1093 (impressive longevity for the era—must have been the uisge beatha). Time to put on Rondo Veneziano on the Thorens and dive in... Colour: straw. Nose: as expected, they’ve selected well—ripe apple, pear cake, orange loaf, and barley syrup make an appearance. No, it’s not a Brora ’72, but it’s enjoyable. Mouth: a touch of minerality and a metallic edge, followed by hay, barley, and more of those apples. Reminiscent of an entry-level Glenlivet, in a charming way. Finish: it turns a bit drying and slightly cardboard-like towards the end. Comments: honest and straightforward, although the finish is a bit underwhelming. Here’s to Malcolm III!
SGP:351 - 76 points. |
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Enigma 15 yo 2008/2024 (54.8%, Cadenhead, Islay single malt, bourbon hogshead, 1494 bottles)
Ah, this one promises to be intriguing—potentially an Ardbeg or a Lagavulin. Let’s find out... Colour: white wine. Nose: ash, olives, lemon, and tiny berries—all very much in the Lagavulin vein. Pure and precise (mercifully untouched by rum, tequila, or any other unorthodox influence in this setting). With water: freshly woven wool and damp chalk. Mouth (neat): what a delight this little number is! Sea water, ash, green pepper, and rowanberry eau-de-vie. With water: that subtle sweet edge is unmistakable. An impeccable distillate. Finish: long, lingering notes of ash, green apples, oysters, and chalk. What more could one ask for? Comments: by the way, have you ever tried drizzling pistachio ice cream with a fresh, unadulterated peated whisky like this? Do give it a go and report back. Don’t take my word for it, but this does lean quite Lagavulin-esque. Exceptional and an absolute session killer. But we press on...
SGP:467 - 90 points. |
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Scarabus ‘Sherry Cask Edition’ (46%, Hunter Laing, Islay single malt, 2024)
The label is amusingly cryptic, with phrases like ‘only those who seek shall find’ and mentions of ‘alchemy’—curiosity piqued. The Viking name ‘Scarabus’ once belonged to an ancient distillery on the shores of Loch Indaal near Bridgend, with Bowmore as the nearest ‘speaking’ distillery just to the south. Not that it means much; if I were Hunter Laing, I’d be tempted to use Ardnahoe. Colour: white wine. Nose: pears—always a tell-tale sign of youth—followed by ash, walnuts, a hint of cured ham, bitter almonds, kirsch, oysters, and a touch of iodine tincture. Mouth: quite approachable, with fruity notes, a touch of mustard, and a chalky edge. Reminiscent of lightly salted farmhouse cider. Finish: long and increasingly saline. The sherry cask has behaved impeccably, subtly integrated without overwhelming. A medicinal touch reappears in the aftertaste. Comments: not to play the guessing game, but it’s undoubtedly excellent. Almost like a table whisky, perfect for enjoying with smoked fish or even caviar.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
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Parkmore Selection 8 yo (46%, Aceo, Highland single malt, Barolo cask finish, circa 2023)
I must admit, the use of Barolo casks worries me far more than the revival of the forgotten Parkmore name (which, let's be honest, only a handful of us still remember). Let’s keep an eye on that Nebbiolo influence... Colour: red mirabelles. Nose: clay and natural sulphur notes, cabbage soup, buttercream, and cherry cake. So far, it’s holding up reasonably well. Mouth: not the disaster I feared—seatbelts can come off—though there’s plenty of green pepper and bay leaves, making for a somewhat challenging ride. A touch of grape stalk and orange zest follows, with a growing presence of green pepper. Naturally, no one was expecting an explosion of ripe red and black berries, I suppose. Finish: medium length, with an unexpected salty and bitter twist. Some cherries do manage to keep the ship from sinking. Comments: not my style at all—and I do love a good Barolo or Barbaresco—but far from the worst I’ve tasted. In short, a genuine winesky, yet serviceable.
SGP:461 - 70 points. |
We do enjoy mixes, but we prefer to make them ourselves. Come on, let’s move forward – there’s even wilder stuff to come... |
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A Secret Speyside Distillery 13 yo 2010/2023 (51%, HK Whisky, Chinese Yellow Wine Cask Finish, cask #2)
An intriguing experiment, or perhaps just a touch of madness—whisky aged in Hong Kong, meaning it no longer qualifies as Scotch malt. I must admit, despite my travels to China over the years, I’d never come across Chinese Yellow Wine, or huangjiu, a traditional rice wine that’s part of China’s ‘national intangible cultural heritage’. How distinguished! Colour: full gold. Nose: brace yourselves—this is a unique experience. A beguiling array of praline, chestnut cream, squash, and glutinous rice; you could easily imagine yourself in an authentic dim sum restaurant. Utterly delightful. With water: more of that wonderful, deeply inviting profile. Mouth (neat): oh, this is superb! Still those chestnuts, hints of yeast, a whisper of rice spirit (the kind I remember costing $1 a litre during my first visit), fermented exotic fruits, and pumpkin soup. It's decidedly Chinese in character—forget the Speyside roots. Finish: long, stunningly saline, and fermentation-forward, with a rustic shochu-like touch and salted preserved lemons. Comments: nothing at all reminiscent of a classic Speyside malt, but what an extraordinary find! It’s discoveries like this that make whisky tasting endlessly rewarding.
SGP:662 - 89 points. |
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Cream of Sponge 28 yo 1993/2022 (44.7%, Whisky Sponge, Highland single malt, refill hogshead, 263 bottles)
Here we jump from one extreme to another, but such is the nature of these delightfully odd tasting sessions. Colour: white wine. Nose: quite amusing and rather unconventional, with hints of hand cream, faded flowers, slightly tired herbal teas, lanolin, and three-year-old suntan lotion—there’s a certain worn-out quality to it, but this only adds to its charm. A touch of motor oil and a drizzle of mead make an intriguing appearance. A fascinating nose that does spark a bit of concern for what’s to come on the palate… Mouth: thankfully, the palate is livelier than anticipated, though it does show a bit of age with notes of old teas. There’s a whisper of shredded coconut and a nod to vintage Burgundy Chardonnay from the 1980s (yes, think Kim Wilde and Stevie Nicks). A touch of salinity brings a West Coast feel (Scotland’s, not Burgundy’s). Finish: medium length with saline nuances, hints of bone marrow, and honey-glazed mushrooms. Comments: I find it somewhat fragile, teetering on the edge here and there, but as Gabin once said to an old actress—I forget who— ‘you’ve still got something left’. Best kept out of modern conversations, of course. All in all, a charming old malt showing some wear, perhaps in need of a whisky restorer. What’s that, you say they already exist?
SGP:342 - 87 points. |
Seriously, we've got loads of these unknown things. Right, let’s keep going... |
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Celestial (50%, Compass Box, blended Scotch, 2024)
A blend crafted in homage to the venerable old White Horse whiskies—splendid news, indeed. Rumoured to include Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Glen Elgin, Old Pulteney, and some particularly aged grain whiskies. While age adds a touch of gravitas, let’s not forget that grain remains grain, if you catch my drift. That said, to replicate true White Horse, one might wish for Lagavulin, or perhaps even Malt Mill, depending on the era… Colour: pale gold. Nose: lacks the sheer force of an ancient White Horse, yet they've undeniably captured the essence. A metallic whisper, hints of maritime peat, vegetal and mechanical oils (think old engine grease), overly ripe apples, and a touch of mint tea. Spot on, White Horse. With water: candle wax, wax paper, and even a dash of paint thinner. Mouth (neat): yes indeed—smoked fish, crisped bacon, chicken broth, tobacco, and a lick of brine. It hits the mark. With water: precisely so. You might almost swear there’s a touch of OBE (old bottle effect, for the uninitiated). Finish: of medium length, but with a saline and slightly oily character. Comments: well done, truly. This one deserves a spot in a blind tasting alongside White Horse, Logan, and Mackie’s—it would be a grand bit of fun.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
One last one for today... |
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Big Peat ‘15th Anniversary’ (50%, Douglas Laing, blended malt, red wine cask finish, 2024)
One wonders whether there might have been some confusion involving computers, as it seems improbable that the fine folk at Douglas Laing would consciously opt to dress their 15th Anniversary Big Peat in a red wine finish. Perhaps an AI was entrusted with this decision, who knows? In any case, something's gone awry. Red wine, really! Colour: apricot. Nose: undeniably well-crafted, showing notes of rose petals and strawberry cake, clafoutis, fruitwood smoke, pink grapefruit, and Mon Chéri (everyone hates the brand, yet everyone eats them). Even a touch of cherry beer peeks through. It’s remarkably unusual but admittedly controlled. With water: the original coastal, windswept character stands firm and provides a much-needed anchor. Mouth (neat): no, here it becomes overbearing, reminiscent of those early Laphroaigs or Port Ellens that had been flirting with heavy Pomerol casks more than two decades ago—Frankenstein whiskies, if you will. Not a triumph, in my humble opinion. With water: not entirely discordant, but there’s an overriding sense of superfluousness. One wonders why such treatment was necessary for a distillate that surely stood proudly on its own pre-experiment. Finish: hard-going, a touch arduous, and slightly uncomfortable. Comments: it remains perfectly drinkable, of course. Now while I can see the merit of using red wine casks as a twist to expand a range—especially when one has an ocean of similar whiskies to differentiate—choosing such a route for a 15th anniversary celebration? It feels somewhat out of step with Douglas Laing’s usual utterly brilliant style and moves. Perhaps it's time to switch off the AI. Peace and love.
SGP:465 - 70 points. |
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November 13, 2024 |
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It's Glenallachie Day on WF |
It may be the most spectacular relaunch of the last decade. When you think of the poor official 12-year-olds from the 1980s-1990s (WF 50) or even the NAS 'Distillery Edition' from the very end of the Pernod-Ricard era (around 2017, WF 80 – okay, that was already much better), you can appreciate how far they've come. |
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Admittedly, we're not always huge fans of the systematic use of finishing/re-racking in very active casks, but we've already tasted some excellent new releases. There are some new ones, but let's first pick one at random for the fun of it… |
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Glenallachie 17 yo (50%, OB, Masters of Wood, Mizunara & Oloroso finish, 4,380 bottles, 2024)
Here comes the latest release, I believe. I must admit that the label 'Masters of Wood' rather conjures images of lumberjacks, carpenters, or cabinetmakers, but that’s marketing for you, isn’t it? No one really talks about the handling of the stills and their quirks these days. Remember those massive copper contraptions with odd piping found in ‘distilleries’? Colour: amber. Nose: reminiscent of a pristine cigar box (humidor). The now ubiquitous mizunara seems to bring touches of fresh rubber (new boots) and pinecones to the nutty, walnut liqueur profile of the oloroso. With water: notes of liquorice and a freshly tailored Harris tweed jacket. Mouth (neat): gentler, honeyed, with coffee liqueur and fir bud over sultanas. With water: beautifully balanced, showcasing undergrowth, raisins, and resinous nuances (bark, needles, sap, and so forth). A subtle hint of propolis and honey rounds it off. Finish: long, fairly rich but not overpowering at all. Comments: it feels a touch 'recipe-based', but isn’t that often the case with Michelin-starred dishes as well? A definite success, I’d say. Ah, mizunara…
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Glenallachie 10 yo ‘Cask Strength Batch 11’ (59.4%, OB, ex-PX, oloroso and red wine, 2023)
Batch 10, also a 2023 release but with the older label, was very much to my liking (WF 88). In theory, I’m not usually drawn to whiskies seasoned with PX and red wine, but theory is there to be challenged, isn’t it? Colour: amber. Nose: strikingly wine-forward, yet surprisingly appealing. Butterscotch, malmsey, sticky toffee pudding, peanut fudge, and pineau (woof!), accompanied by an assortment of raisins. With water: lightens up, leaning more towards dried fruits, dates, figs, and slices of pear, with a hint of mint that adds a thin mint biscuit quality. Mouth (neat): very vinous indeed. A blend reminiscent of VDN, pineau, ratafia, coffee liqueur, and Malaga PX. In the background, notes of black tea and dark chocolate emerge. With water: the drier side takes over, dominated by chocolate and tea. Finish: very long, with mint, chocolate, tea, and a touch of wood. Comments: a ‘big boy’ whisky, seemingly freshly repainted. It’s quite impressive, I must admit.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Glenallachie 14 yo 2009/2024 (60.3%, OB, for The Whisky Exchange, sherry cask, cask #900609, 261 bottles)
A single cask, of course. It moves in the glass with the heft of a liqueur! Colour: amber. Nose: rosehip jam comes to mind first, alongside rosewood, a hint of Rhône white wine (marsanne and roussanne) and even muscat. Followed by white chocolate. With water: a veritable bundle of dried figs. Mouth (neat): very smooth and somewhat liqueur-like, leaning heavily into triple sec, Grand Marnier, with a splash of tonic water and a touch of lavender water. Quite the intriguing cocktail (really!). With water: becomes more balanced, bringing in pepper, chocolate, tobacco, malt (Ovaltine), and a dash of stout. Finish: long, dry, featuring tea, cinnamon, and chocolate. Comments: two whiskies in one—boisterous at the start but drier and more refined in the finish. Truly excellent in both aspects.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Glenallachie 14 yo 2009/2024 (57.1%, OB, Germany exclusive, PX puncheon, cask #804302, 696 bottles)
One gets the feeling this will be similar… Colour: amber. Nose: goodness, it’s remarkably close! Notes of rose, perhaps viognier, white chocolate, pink pepper, and muscat. With water: the same impression holds. Mouth (neat): it’s virtually the same excellent whisky, or nearly so. One would need to taste a litre of each side by side to tease out the nuances—and no, that’s not happening. With water: same again. Finish: same, though a touch more peppery. Comments: the casks didn’t have similar capacities at all, so perhaps it’s just coincidence, but these two whiskies are strikingly similar.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Glenallachie 18 yo (46%, OB, +/-2024)
The label proudly states it’s ‘overflowing with their signature heather honey charm’, which does sound a bit Highland Park-esque, doesn’t it? We weren’t particularly fond of the ‘previous new 18’ about six years ago, but as DJT would say, some stuff must have been fixed, very much so. Colour: dark amber with reddish hues. Nose: prune juice, plum wine, figs, milk chocolate, PX sherry, molasses, peonies, jasmine, and spearmint. That said, it’s far from heavy or overbearing. Mouth: absolutely nothing like that former 18-year-old. We do quickly arrive at notes of aged wood, deeply steeped black tea, rocket leaves, and dark tobacco. There is a drying quality, but it stays within pleasant bounds. Hints of cold espresso. Finish: sherry that behaves itself, alongside orange marmalade with pepper, cinnamon, and ginger. Comments: not my favourite of the range so far, but there’s no denying it’s very well-crafted. It has a touch of that old M style, just before FO arrived, if that rings a bell. About twenty-five years ago.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Glenallachie 9 yo 2014/2023 (63.9%, Alambic Classique, first fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #23101, 637 bottles)
This looks like a real powerhouse and shouldn’t stray too far from the OBs, given its lineage. Colour: dark gold. Nose: shortbread, croissant, and butterscotch, with a touch of salty liquorice—what more could one want? I love this nose, which feels more compact and precise than some of the others. With water: chocolate and fudge bursting with raisins. Almost outrageous. Mouth (neat): perfect, like a whisky-infused piece of fudge generously drizzled with dark chocolate. With water: great vibrancy, showing notes of juniper, chocolate, clove, and pepper, plus five litres of Guinness. Or so I’d imagine; I doubt I’ve ever consumed five litres of Guinness in my whole life. Finish: long, just a tad tangier, leaning towards amontillado. Green walnuts and a gram of Dijon mustard. Any mustard would do, really. Comments: absolutely my kind of dram. Very well done, Bad Wörishofen, no wonder the place is, apparently, called ‘die Gesundheitsstadt’ (the healthy city).
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Glenallachie 13 yo 2006/2019 (56.9%, OB, selected by Whisky-E, bourbon barrel, cask #26855, 238 bottles)
Ah, a break from the barrage of sherry casks with a return to a bourbon-matured version. Colour: straw. Nose: a delightful bouquet with a charming array of garden herbs like chervil and tarragon, showcasing the distillate’s layered complexity. Hints of rye, a touch of white beer, subtle rooty notes, fresh bread, sesame seeds, watercress, and sprouted alfalfa. It’s wonderfully inviting! With water: it retreats into fresher distillate notes, presenting pear, apple, and gooseberry – thoroughly enjoyable. Mouth (neat): absolutely spot on, featuring absinthe, clay, asparagus, lemon, and cider apple. With water: a burst of ripe, juicy pears returns to the fore. Finish: medium length, maintaining a profile of fresh fruit and earthy roots, with a touch of marzipan. Comments: truly impressed by this distillate, proving it doesn’t always need hyperactive casks to shine.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
You’ve no doubt noticed how close these scores are, and I know it often leads well-meaning individuals to wonder, “Why use a 100-point scale if only 6 or 7 points are sometimes utilised in a single session?” Well, as I often say, think of a thermometer that ranges from 0 to 100 degrees. If you place it in a specific part of your anatomy, despite its broad range, it will only show between 35 and 42°C, because if you’re below or above that, you’d actually be dead. It’s the same idea. Quite, anyway, take that for what it’s worth—and let’s finish with a bit of something peaty… |
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Meikle Toir 5 yo ‘The Original’ (50%, OB, +/-2023)
Ah, Scotland these days—everyone's having a go at every style imaginable: peated, lightly peated, heavily peated, not peated at all, PX finishes, shiraz, pineau, ruby port, STR, virgin American oak, virgin European oak, Bordeaux… and let’s not forget the legendary mizunara. It’s like they’ve all rolled out the machine guns. Now, Meikle Toir is Glenallachie’s foray into the peated realm, and we’ve encountered some cracking ones before. Colour: pale straw. Nose: not quite Islay, but it holds its own with hints of pine smoke, farm stables, eucalyptus, and the rugged scent of an old farm tractor—Scottish, naturally. With water: turns into a young Laphroaig impersonator. Mouth (neat): lovely and clean, just a touch sweet, and packed with ashes, curry spice, caraway, juniper, and coriander seeds—almost veering into gin territory. Wouldn’t be surprised if it made a smashing martini, olive and all. With water: remains spot on. Finish: fairly long, featuring bitter almonds, orgeat syrup, and a whiff of clams. Comments: prime material for a cocktail, methinks, not that I’m any sort of expert… All in all, expertly crafted, though it doesn’t quite reach the turbocharged heights of its sibling ‘The Turbo’—Glenallachie’s own Octomore-esque dram.
SGP: 565 - 85 points. |
Alright, we’ll stop here, adios. |
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November 12, 2024 |
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Nine new Benromachs (waxing lyrical)
This is probably the twenty-five-thousandth time we've made this little two-penny joke. Anyway, we are delighted to have a few new Benromachs lined up, and today is a good day to taste them – at least some of them. |
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Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB, +/-2024)
We revisit the ten-year-old, a beloved dram that warrants our attention every three or four years, so we’ll keep this swift. It typically garners a WF 87 from us, even with its modest bottling strength. Colour: light gold. Nose: damp earth, pepper, leather, mustard, oranges, hay, capers, and wet chalk. Yes, spot on. Mouth: tobacco, smoked meat, cough lozenges, bitter oranges, then a briny martini with an olive. Finish: rather long, saline, with richly smoked bacon and a touch of lemon zest, leading to a second martini impression. Comments: all is well, familiar and delightful as ever, we’re happy to continue appreciating this.
SGP:463 – WF 87 points. |
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Benromach 9 yo 2014/2024 ‘Contrasts: Unpeated’ (46%, OB, bourbon and sherry)
Is Benromach without peat like Jimmy Page without a guitar? Let’s find out... Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this proves that Benromach’s character isn’t solely reliant on peat. It stays true to the distillery’s profile with a distinctive earthy quality, quite coastal with hints of clay and slate. There’s also a tiny touch of mustard and a note reminiscent of a certain Campbeltown distillery. Mouth: the richness of the 10-year-old makes a return, with leather, tobacco, ripe apples, and a smattering of dried fruits, particularly dried pear. Finish: not so different from ‘regular’ Benromach after all. Comments: I still prefer the 10-year-old, but this unpeated expression is both very good and intriguing. To be honest, there’s still a hint of smoke in there.
SGP:552 – 85 points. |
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Benromach 10 yo 2014/2024 (59.6%, OB, Germany Exclusive, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #486, 305 bottles)
I found all the recent vintage single casks from 2011, 2012, or 2013 to be superb, whether matured in bourbon or sherry. Colour: gold. Nose: sulphur (let’s say intrinsic sulphur), asparagus, then walnuts, paraffin, lamp oil, chestnut cream, Iberian ham, fresh tobacco… Utterly charming with that wild edge we love. It’s fascinating how well the sulphur integrates—far from cabbage soup or town gas. With water: now hitting full-on shoe polish, plus a whiff of rabbit warren and well-hung grouse. Wild indeed. Mouth (neat): a powerhouse of ginger, bitter oranges, seawater, peat, green walnuts, and so forth. With water: a surprising freshness appears behind those intense, pronounced notes of leather, tobacco, and salt. The oranges shine through… Finish: very long, spicier, yet the oranges continue to set the tone and maintain the balance. Comments: we should be sending bottles to every capital in conflict. Alas, history shows that the worst leaders are often the ones who don’t drink, while they could.
SGP:563 – 89 points. |
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Benromach 11 yo 2013/2024 (61.1%, OB, Germany Exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #835, 231 bottles)
I’ve got a bit of a hunch here... Colour: straw. Nose: as gentle as a lamb at first, with custard and orange cake, then comes chalk, leather, a touch of smoked fish, thyme, seaweed, camphor, and mint. With water: cigar smoke and a pu-ehr tea cake join the mix. Mouth (neat): an initial burst of fierce grapefruit and green and pink peppercorns, all draped in candle wax. With water: seawater, oysters, and lemons make an entrance. Finish: long, crisp, lively, but turning richer and fruitier towards the end. Always those citrus notes. Comments: perhaps it wasn’t obvious, but we adored this one; its purity and crystalline profile are truly stunning.
SGP:563 – 90 points. |
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Benromach 10 yo 2014/2024 (60.2%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #384, 244 bottles)
What a lovely label! Has a touch of COBRA about it, I think. Colour: straw. Nose: a touch gentler and more reserved than the previous one, leaning towards pastries and croissants. I suspect water will be transformative... With water: not dramatically so; it remains impeccably refined and pure, now with added ashes alongside the polish. A touch of Organza. Mouth (neat): almost identical to the 2013 official release for Germany on the palate, which is excellent news. Waxes, grapefruit, salinity, grape seed oil—it’s superb. With water: reminiscent of ‘Campbeltown’ at the same age. Waxes, oils, citrus, hints of hydrocarbons, and a touch of fern. Finish: stays consistent for a good while, with a bit of eucalyptus. Comments: like the best batches of Sp******k 10-year-old.
SGP:563 – 90 points. |
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Benromach 19 yo 2005/2024 (59%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry butt, cask #164, 264 bottles)
La Maison du Whisky is featuring several new Benromach in this delightfully posh series (which I quite enjoy, haha). Colour: straw. Nose: there must be some mistake—this is high-grade manzanilla, just a touch stronger than usual. Walnuts, curry, mustard, brine, and wild crab apples. Bring on the langoustines, please. With water: tiger balm, eucalyptus, and wintergreen join in… Convenient, as I could use a bit of muscle relief. Mouth: what a sherry cask! Fino, perhaps? Curry, walnuts, salt, shellfish, mustard, chalk—all present and correct. With water: an exceptional whisky. More menthol and salted liquorice appear. Finish: long and oily, yet pure and highly mineral. Comments: I have something to tell you…
SGP:453 – 91 points. |
Here it is—I am currently putting together a new list of my personal ‘grand cru’ whiskies. It’s far from complete and it could take years, but I can already share a brief extract. Bear in mind, some are missing, but as it stands, you’ll see that Benromach holds a prominent place on the list. Ardbeg (Scotland), Ardnamurchan (Scotland), Ben Nevis (Scotland), Benromach (Scotland), Brora (Scotland), Chichibu (Japan), Clynelish (Scotland), Daftmill (Scotland), Domaine des Hautes Glaces (France), Hellyers Road (Australia), Millstone/Zuidam (Netherlands), Port Ellen (Scotland), Shizuoka (Japan), Smögen (Sweden), Springbank (Scotland). Nothing earthshattering yet, to be continued… |
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Benromach 21 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, OB, Capital Whisky Club Exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #971, 170 bottles)
A special release for the discerning Capital Whisky Club in London, promising a dram of exceptional pedigree. Colour: light gold, shimmering with an enticing glow (lol). Nose: intriguingly oily at first, with a fleeting metallic edge and an unexpected, whimsical touch of ultra-premium cat biscuits (yes, really) intertwined with dried floral bouquets. This idiosyncratic opening soon unfurls into a more traditional Benromach profile, rich in citrus zest, chalky undertones, and a breath of moss. With water: fare thee well, feline fancy; a classic Benromach emerges with signature notes of shoe polish, lemon, paraffin, earth, and chalk. Mouth (neat): spot-on, bursting with peppery warmth, lemon oil, chalk dust, green apples, and a whisper of briny oysters. Absolutely no hint of any sort of cat snacks here. With water: pristinely refined, echoing industrial oils, lemon peel, flinty minerality, and crisp apple. Finish: long, balancing weighty, oily depth with a taut, clean line. An accomplishment few distilleries can replicate; Springbank comes to mind. Comments: disregard any feline whims; this is another sumptuous Benromach to savour.
SGP:552 – 91 points. |
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Benromach 22 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #22602102, 341 bottles)
A strikingly mature Benromach with a flourish worthy of its Artist series presentation. Colour: full gold, deep and inviting. Nose: age is gracefully stepping in, with whispers of rancio setting the tone alongside aged pu-ehr tea, a well-kept cigar box, and the exotic warmth of thuja wood reminiscent of a Marrakesh souk. Pine needles and cedar wood weave through, with hints of earthy bidis adding a subtle wisp of smoke. With water: rare and luxurious varnishes emerge, conjuring memories of aged bourbons like Very Old Fitzgerald—utterly breath-taking. Mouth (neat): simply outstanding! Layers of walnut wine, ancient herbal liqueurs, venerable chartreuse, and a rich orange-and-bergamot fudge come together in an intricate dance of flavours. With water: so beautiful it’s almost overwhelming, bursting with intensely concentrated spices and herbs, evoking a distinctly Eastern mystique. Finish: immensely long, leaving impressions of fine varnish, resinous gum, toasted sesame, salty liquorice, and a delicate, almost precious broth. Comments: a sublime, tertiary-aged Benromach of monumental stature. The artistry isn’t limited to the bottle’s label; it sings within the whisky itself (forgive the cliché, S.). And what an expression of sherry!
SGP:562 – 92 points. |
One last one. You shouldn't overindulge in (very) good things. |
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Benromach 25 yo 1998/2024 (50.3%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #197, 160 bottles)
Among the very first distillations carried out by the new custodians, Gordon & MacPhail. It’s always a fascinating exercise to unearth these early intentions—akin to the initial ‘new’ Bruichladdichs distilled just a couple of years after this venerable Benromach. What a masterstroke by G&M at the time. Colour: gold. Nose: a part of that trademark tautness and crisp profile has mellowed; instead, we encounter aged fir wood, menthol, balms, and exceedingly ripe bananas with a hint of patchouli… One for the boomer crowd? With water: damp autumn leaves, soapwort, an old cardigan adorned with glam badges—T-Rex, Sweet, Bowie, the whole shebang. Mouth (neat): an improvement over the nose, provided one has a soft spot for mead and slightly aged olive oil. There’s lovely beeswax and a delicate orange peel dipped in chocolate. With water: to be frank, it’s delightfully charming, but not quintessentially ‘Benromach’, as if they hadn’t yet perfected the formula that now works wonders. Was it an early, different peat protocol, perhaps? Pure speculation… Finish: medium in length, with stewed fruits and herbal infusions. Comments: unquestionably excellent, though I’d say its more recent siblings have outshone it considerably. Apologies, Benromach!
SGP:541 - 87 points. |
Nine Benromach, that’s quite something, right. |
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November 11, 2024 |
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For a Few More Lowlands
When you think that at one time there were barely more than Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie still in operation. Thank goodness there are now far more Lowland whiskies, though the one we continue to miss with desperate longing is St Magdalene. Let’s take a look at what we have and, most importantly, no more than one expression per distillery, just this once. |
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Daftmill 12 yo 2011/2023 ‘Summer Batch Release’ (46%, OB, 1st fill bourbon barrels, 6,550 bottles)
Twenty-seven bourbon casks were involved here, which might explain why this release is still around over a year post-launch. Or perhaps it’s that rather ‘2023’ price tag, a touch optimistic. I do appreciate how they label themselves as ‘a seasonal distillery’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: beautifully deep, somewhat fermentative, with melon sorbet, papaya, custard, and small pink and blue bananas dusted with crushed chalk. Not the first time I’ve thought Daftmill has a nose reminiscent of a Western Chichibu. Mouth: very pleasant, if not as ultra-precise as their single casks, yet those slightly green spices and champagne-like yeasts work a treat. It then veers towards bubblegum and pear-and-pineapple-flavoured jellybeans. Finish: a hint of anticipated limoncello, duly delivered. A touch of fresh herbs and green tea round things off nicely. Comments: I really do enjoy this large batch, which evokes youthful Rosebanks on the palate, as often.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
Rosebank? That’s a good idea. It’s true that we’ve had quite a bit of Rosebank lately... |
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Rosebank 32 yo 1991/2024 (51.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #2114, 141 bottles)
This venerable 1991 probably adds another gem to a lineage that has proven exceptional at various ages. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakably Rosebank in its elegant fruitiness, though comparisons with other greats come to mind. Glorious waves of mangoes and passion fruits lead the charge, followed by fragrant orange blossom and ripe yellow melon. A bright zestiness of lemons and tangerines emerges, interwoven with acacia honey, a hint of chalk, and the comforting flakiness of fresh croissants. Simplicity belies brilliance here, with an almost dazzling precision that makes one muse that such barrels could endure yet another 32 years—alas, not this one. With water: a more fermentative edge, offering notes of freshly baked bread, a whiff of gueuze, and lemony hops. Mouth (neat): a strikingly clear and zesty profile persists, seemingly untouched by age. A vivid array of citron, lemon zest, and grapefruit pulp dances alongside a drizzle of acacia honey and a soft touch of rosehip tisane, which gently rounds the edges. It’s surprising to think this came from a first fill bourbon cask, given its elegant restraint reminiscent of a refined refill. With water: it becomes herbaceous, with pronounced fresh bread notes, before grapefruit asserts itself more boldly. Finish: long, with a remarkable and lively tension for its age—pure Rosebank in essence. Comments: it would be intriguing to see a real expert write a few lines on the lifespan expectations of a whisky at birth, factoring in both cask and distillate.
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
Since we were talking about fruits... |
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Littlemill 27 yo 1988/2016 (57.3%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, dark sherry cask, cask #16305, 153 bottles)
Ah, back when we called sherried whiskies simply ‘dark’ or ‘pale’—none of that ‘ex-bodega amontillado-seasoned rejuvenated hogshead’ business. Those were indeed simpler, better days, weren't they? Colour: a rich cognac amber. Nose: Earl Grey tea, but not just any—an exceptional one. The classic, exuberant fruitiness of these Littlemill vintages intertwines seamlessly with the sherry, placing us right at the counter of a patisserie in the early morning. Warm pain aux raisins, orange cake, lemon cookies, and even brie (the patisserie, not the cheese) soaked in kirsch. That’s a personal favourite, for those who mind my birthday is 20th September. Subtle notes of shrivelled grape berries, like a vin de paille. With water: a refreshing turn with limestone, lemon, and crisp green apple, suggesting a firming up. Mouth (neat): an indulgence, pure and simple. The distillate shines with a sharp, almost gritty lemon that’s utterly enchanting—the finest lemon essence we've had in ages. With water: a return to a more refined palate, perfectly balanced with citrus and sultanas. Finish: long, cheerful, and fruit-laden, featuring pink grapefruit and a delightful touch of honey, with that Earl Grey making a final, graceful appearance. Has the sherry bowed out? Comments: immensely enjoyable and deceptively drinkable. Beware!
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Dalrymple 11 yo 2012/2024 (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended malt, hogshead, 194 bottles)
Dalrymple is a trade name for Ailsa Bay, and while our experience with this distillate is limited, a superb Dalrymple from Tri Carragh once left a strong impression. The official Ailsa Bay releases, however, have often been as cold as a North Sea flounder – if I may. Colour: pale gold. Nose: delightful, with an intriguing mix of tequila and gentian—no jest here. Ripe pear and apple follow, creating a harmonious bouquet. A touch of medicinal quality emerges, accompanied by green walnuts and a hint of mustard. With water: develops towards a fine fino sherry. Mouth (neat): very good indeed! Green apple, fir smoke, plasticine, Sichuan pepper, mustard, mezcal, and radish—spicy with a slight bite. With water: the fruitiness becomes more pronounced, but a peppery edge also takes hold. An unusual mix of sultanas and white pepper surprises the palate. Finish: long, with smoke overlaying those peppered sultanas, making for a slightly more challenging conclusion. Comments: the peat runs subtly throughout, never dominating but always present. A complex and captivating dram, perfect for a blind guessing game among friends.
SGP:465 – 87 points. |
We’ll finish off with a little independent Auchentoshan... |
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Auchentoshan 15 yo 2007/2024 (55.7%, Lady of the Glen, Ruby Port finish, cask #4204) 
A triple-distilled dram with a ruby port finish, which could indeed evoke a lively fairground. The use of ruby port is always intriguing, considering it typically ages for only a brief period in large, well-worn casks to maintain the wine's fresh, fruity character. One would be surprised if any genuine ruby port casks were employed for maturing or seasoning Scotch. But the proof, as they say, is in the pudding... Colour: apricot. Nose: predictably fresh and fruity, leading with peach, greengages, cherries, and a hint of raspberry eau-de-vie. Rather delightful, though it leans towards an assembled or pre-mixed vibe. With water: herbal notes and leafy undertones emerge, integrating into the profile. Mouth (neat): a lively mix of budding twigs, fruit skins, cherries, apples, pink pepper, and grapefruit – water is almost a necessity here. With water: it develops into a pleasing concoction with shades reminiscent of an Apérol or Campari, perfect for a potential spritz. Finish: fairly long, carrying cherries and green pepper. Comments: not entirely the signature Auchentoshan markers one might seek, but certainly superior to the distillery’s NAS finishes. Ah, those red Bordeaux woods!
SGP:651 – 81 points. |
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November 10, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
The landscape around Château Whiskyfun has changed: the leaves have fallen from the vines, the few fields lie fallow, and a peaceful silence hangs over the small town, interrupted only by the distant cries of a few migratory birds and the barking of a dog waiting for its owner outside the bakery door. And here we are, with a few rums on the table (what a rubbish introduction, S.!). |
At Poisson on Marie-Galante.
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Père Labat ‘Le Rhum Soleil’ (55%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023)
By Distillerie Poisson. The label calls it ‘rhum brun’, yet its appearance is more akin to a pale straw. Aged – or more precisely, gently oxygenated – for six months in a large oak vat. Colour: white wine. Nose: a delightful burst of green and black olives that one can’t help but relish, laced with diesel fumes and strong adhesive, alongside ultra-ripe bananas and the lively scent of fresh sugarcane juice. A superb distillate with merely a touch of air, blissfully free from any intrusive woodiness. With water: minimal change, save for a subtle shift towards a brinier profile with an added sweetness and a touch more cane juice. Mouth (neat): bold and bracing, with notes of anise joining lemon and olives. A thrilling sharpness indeed. With water: earthy, slightly tarred cane emerges, accompanied by lemon and grapefruit zest. Finish: long and enduring, dominated by a triumphant return of olives, hints of seawater, and a follow-up of lemon peel. Comments: Père Labat is consistently excellent, and this expression shines particularly well in its natural state. Or in uncountable numbers of Ti' Punches.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
Since we're talking about amber or straw tones… |
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Neisson ‘Profil Equilibre Carole Aurore’ (49%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, 2024)
An intriguing blend of three distinct rums aged between 12 and 24 months in new American oak casks. Neisson, known for preserving the purity of its distillate, faces the test of this 'wood technology' experiment. Colour: pale gold. Nose: decidedly softer, more refined (although Martinique and Guadeloupe have been anything but civilised lately), with hints of melon sorbet, banana, and sweet liquorice, followed by subtle notes of courgette flower, honeysuckle, and yuzu. Fresh turmeric and a touch of verbena emerge before the fresh cane steps in assertively. Mouth: well-balanced indeed, showcasing lemon, a delightful salinity, liquorice, and a whisper of fruit-tree sawdust or perhaps sandalwood? The woody notes harmonise seamlessly with the salted liquorice. Finish: long and saline, with a manzanilla-like character that we so admire. Comments: an excellent young Neisson, expertly crafted as expected, though perhaps somewhat overshadowed by the pristine purity of the Père Labat.
SGP:561 – 85 points. |
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Islay Rum ‘Barrel Aged’ (46%, OB, UK, 2024)
We’ve tasted a few rums aged in Islay whisky casks before (a bit of a Frankenstein concept, if you ask me, even when it’s well-executed and rather enjoyable). This one hails from the esteemed Vintage Malt Whisky Company, a reputable bunch, and is crafted at the old lemonade works opposite Port Ellen Distillery. Quite the invigorating setting, no doubt. With Islay not exactly renowned for sugarcane fields, one presumes imported molasses or cane 'honey' must be used. It brings to mind ‘Ninefold,’ a decent Scottish rum we scored at WF 79. Colour: straw/pale gold. Nose: well, it’s absolutely charming! You’d almost suspect a few nocturnal litres of Port Ellen were siphoned off (if only Port Ellen had restarted earlier, one might seriously wonder). Spruce wood, tarmac, petrol, green olives, baker’s yeast, charcoal smoke, seawater, and a couple of oysters… it’s delightful, straddling English and French styles with a clear Islay twist. Mouth: ah yes, here we find peat ash intertwined with tar, seawater, and those iconic olives, dotted with a few lemon zest shavings. Likely the work of coastal casks lending their magic to the maturation. Finish: long, smoky, ashy. Comments: Jamaica has often been dubbed ‘the Islay of rum,’ but never has Islay been called ‘the Jamaica of whisky’—there’s a first time for everything. All in all, we find it truly enjoyable and not as ‘transitional’ as one might think; a visit to the distillery is certainly in order.
SGP:563 – 85 points. |
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Tierra Madre ‘Island Signature’ (40%, Odevie, Guatemala, +/-2024)
Despite its lofty aging in the Guatemalan highlands, which might challenge its 'island rum' designation, does that really matter? When Guatemala is mentioned, names like Botran and Zacapa spring to mind—Darsa, in other words. Let’s see if this one follows the sugary path. Colour: gold. Nose: yes, there’s grapefruit and pineapple liqueur, with hibiscus and ylang-ylang notes, presenting as rather inviting and fresh. So, as far as the nose goes, check! Mouth: it’s a touch sweet, light, and slightly herbaceous, featuring cane and cane syrup, a hint of candied sugar, and whispers of baked apple with cinnamon. Pleasant enough, though decidedly light. Finish: short, with a hint of bitterness and a touch of liquorice wood. Comments: far less cloying than the typical Guatemalan rums we’re familiar with (and not ones generally endorsed by the World Dentist Organisation).
SGP:551 – 78 points. |
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Grays Very Special Orange Product 4 yo (50%, Vagabond Spirit, Mauritius, 2024)
An intriguing creation indeed. This is a 51-month-old rhum traditionnel from Mauritius, given a final flourish with a 2-month finish in Cognac casks (common enough) and ex-orange liqueur casks from Prunier (rarely seen). Reduced meticulously, ‘drop by drop,’ from 64% to 50%, in line with the creed of true artisans. Colour: full gold. Nose: the world is divided into two camps (and not just Democrats and Republicans)—those who adore grand orange liqueurs of all kinds, and those who’ve never tried them. This affable rum bridges that divide nicely. Notes of orange, orange blossom, acacia honey, with hints of chalk and earth. With water: even more orange blossom, fresh panettone, orange cream, and orange cupcakes emerge. Mouth (neat): more complex on the palate, with notes reminiscent of marc and berry eau-de-vie, all layered with honey and orange marmalade. It’s potent. With water: a subtle medicinal touch that’s rather intriguing. Overall, it works seamlessly. Finish: medium length, gentle, featuring peach yoghurt, likely an influence from the Cognac. A quinine-like note lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: approaching the realm of spiced rum but far more intricate than most of the few I’ve tasted. I had my doubts, but it’s genuinely very good.
SGP:741 – 83 points. |
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T.D.L. 14 yo 2009/2024 (63%, The Roots for Dram4ALS, Trinidad, bourbon cask, cask #4, 201 bottles)
This special bottling supports a noble cause, with proceeds aiding the fight against Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis in honour of Alain. Colour: amber. Nose: a blend that oscillates between the exuberant fruitiness of some TDLs and the more industrial, petrol-like qualities of certain Caronis, if that paints a picture. Whiffs of hair lotion and hairspray join ripe mango, banana, and an abundance of liquorice. Hard to delve deeper at this high ABV, however. With water: salted liquorice fudge (visually reminiscent of coal), fresh rubber, shoe polish, and the anticipated olives appear. This Trinidadian rum leans into Jamaican territory. Mouth (neat): a heady mix of petrol, salt, overripe mango, pineapple eau-de-vie, pepper, and varnish. And, notably, a significant ethanol punch. With water: an exotic fruit medley meets seawater and shoe polish—unexpectedly delightful. Finish: very long and very saline. Comments: quite the formidable beast; if you acquire a bottle, ensure your pipette is at hand (and know you’re exceptionally classy for supporting Dram4ALS).
SGP:662 – 90 points. |
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Hampden 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘LROK’ (65%, Rest & Be Thankful for Wu Dram Clan and Kirsch Import, cask #4, 2024)
Colour: gold. Nose: I’ll be brief. Brake dust (think Parisian metro), pickle brine, green olives, preserved lemon, Atlantic sea spray (why not?), and borderline overripe mango. With water: just unmistakably Hampden. A bit like Ardbeg, where naming the distillery says it all. New rubber. A friend once quipped about “a latex S&M suit,” though we haven’t spoken to him in ages—thankfully. True story. Still, you get the drift, I hope. Mouth (neat): sublime salted lemon infused with petrol and ash. Quite the powerhouse, but you did notice the strength, right? With water: somewhere between fine fino sherry, praline, and salted lemon leading straight to agave spirit or even sotol, for variety’s sake. Note to self: try a few sotols one Sunday, space permitting. Finish: very long, with gherkins, olives, and salmiak. An unexpected touch of vanilla in the aftertaste. Comments: a magnificent young Hampden, tough to beat in its league.
SGP:463 – 90 points. |
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HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Care for Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles)
Just a reminder: here, ‘HD’ doesn’t mean Harley-Davidson. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, here we go—ash galore (cigar, resinous wood, charcoal), seamlessly intertwined with lemon, tar, brine, and petrol. Plus hints of slate and basalt. That’s it, but it’s more than enough. I must confess (for the umpteenth time), I love this profile. With water: that exhaust pipe notes of an old car burning a bit of oil, familiar from certain Hampden releases. Add carbon paper, old books, a hint of yellow curry, and mango chutney… there’s remarkable depth as you dig in. Mouth (neat): almost binary, dominated by salted lemon. Wonderful, but knowing it’ll shine with water… With water: indeed, classic, flawless, peppery and saline, with just the right amount of rubber, tar, glue, and lemon. Finish: same story, it lingers for ages. Unexpected icy mint touches on the back-palate. Comments: even more intensely saline than the already stellar 2016. Proof that age truly matters, even for these powerhouse rums.
SGP:473 – 91 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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