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August 28, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today
Glenfiddich again, 16 vs 30 |
Right, after Bowmore, Aston Martin has chosen Glenfiddich as a co-branding partner. We’ve already talked about that, but we hadn’t actually tasted anything yet. Here’s our chance, especially since we also wanted to revisit the old 30-Year-Old which, when it was released twenty years ago, left us feeling a little underwhelmed. It must be said that the 40% ABV really didn’t help… |
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Glenfiddich 16 yo ‘Aston Martin’ (43%, OB, American oak, 2025) 
Apparently, this one’s the result of a tie-in with the Aston Martin Formula 1 team. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very nice, very civilised, rather on vanilla fudge and praline, apple tart, multifloral honey… It’s genuinely lovely and gentle, a bit like Aston’s position in the standings (Alonso 11th, Stroll 12th). Mouth: I find this really good, a little richer than your usual ‘fiddichs, which we do like, more malty on the palate, more on honey-baked quince, mirabelle tart, maple syrup… Finish: not so short, more on honey again but also more on cakes, scones, muffins and all that jazz. This is really good. Comments: to be honest, we do poke fun at these unlikely marketing tie-ins, but I must admit I rather like this little 16-year-old that’s got a fair bit of depth, even if we’re not quite dealing with a naturally aspirated V12 here.
SGP:551 - 85 point. |
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Glenfiddich 30 yo ‘XXX’ (40%, OB, +/-2005) 
I’m rereading my notes from 17 October 2005, where I wrote ‘I hope we’ll see a 45 or 46% version on the market one day!’ I fear that never came to pass, but let’s taste this baby, from a different bottle of course, and most likely for the last time. Colour: deep gold. Nose: I reckon after twenty years in bottle, it’s become more aromatic, certainly more on bergamots and beeswax, honeysuckle and orange blossom, almost like fresh panettone from a good bakery. Needless to say, the panettones that turn up in our French hypermarkets aren’t exactly of the highest order. Mouth: blimey, what progress! A perfect OBE, leading straight to all things hive-like, honeys, but also a surprising salty edge, light broths, a faint Thai side (Thai basil, coriander, coconut, mild chilli) and the subtlest marmalades. What a surprise, truly. Finish: not even that short, very pretty, this time waxy and on blond tobacco… A touch of liquorice and Jamaican rum (yes) on the aftertaste. Comments: I’m absolutely floored, I wasn’t expecting this, I just wanted a little sparring partner for the 16 yo AM. Well then!
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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August 27, 2025 |
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A quartet of Nc’Nean matured in active casks
I always find it a bit surprising when a distillery makes a point of using local or organic ingredients, proudly highlighting the regional terroir and going almost fully eco-conscious in its approach—only to then use the most eclectic and conceptually, and geographically, distant casks imaginable. Amarone, anyone? But you'll tell me it's the end result that matters, and I couldn't really argue with that... In any case, we've already enjoyed some excellent Nc’Nean. |
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Nc'Nean 'Huntress 2025 Lemon Meadow' (48.5%, OB, 5,729 bottles, 2025) 
The operation brought together STR casks, American oak and a touch of oloroso. It would appear they've used champagne yeast, which is frightfully efficient, it could probably ferment pebbles! That's what I used myself when distilling mead, for example, honey not being easy to let ferment… Colour: light gold. Nose: lovely, on sponge cake and ale, banana bread, very ripe apples and a nice little lemon meringue tart. Pleasing malted freshness throughout. Mouth: a sweet and sour style, white beer, clearly some slightly green wood, then green walnuts and a twist of grapefruit zest. I find this good and not overly ‘STR’-ish, which is always appreciated. Finish: medium in length, quite fermentary indeed, though I doubt that's down to the champagne yeast. A touch of dark nougat lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: I find this really good, even if I remain partial to malts that stay closer to the distillate (I do repeat myself).
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
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Nc’Nean 6 yo 2018/2024 (57.1%, Watt Whisky, STR cask, 282 bottles)
More STR again, but in any case it’s always an encouraging sign when respected independents like the Watt chaps take an interest in your distillery. Colour: gold. Nose: more modern, more ‘American craft’ if I may say so, with rye bread, fir wood, eucalyptus, citrus peel, turmeric and cumin. Speculoos biscuits. With water: the candied peels take the lead. Mouth (neat): gentle but very spicy, heavily marked by the cask, full of ginger, lemon peel, cinnamon, ginger again… One is clearly a good distance from the distillate here, but it so happens that I also enjoy this sort of style. If one’s going to go cask-driven, may as well go all in, no? With water: indeed this is very good, although more west-coast USA than west-coast Scotland. Finish: rather long, with touches of elderflower liqueur. Ready for a Hugo spritz! Comments: no doubt a little polarising, but I really do like it.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Nc’Nean 2020/2025 ‘AON Amarone’ (59.3%, OB, Kirsch Import, cask # 20-676, 486 bottles)
One might reasonably ask what on earth the connection is between the west coast terroir and Valpolicella, no? Colour: partridge eye. Nose: very lovely, clean, close to barley and grist, a low-tide beach, a full bowl of oatcakes… With water: likely refill wood, as balance seems to have been preserved, we’re far from any cherry or strawberry jam. I rather enjoy this fresh bread angle too, alongside damp earth and a whiff of soggy cardboard… Mouth (neat): strong but good. Nothing to do with Amarone, we’re firmly in the realm of taut citrus, pink grapefruit, citron… Very fine sharpness. With water: tiny flecks of menthol and bergamot. Finish: rather long, slightly saline, still close to the barley. Comments: ma dov’è amarone? Perhaps best not to mention it at all, it only led us astray at the start… Excellent.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Nc’Nean 2017/2025 ‘AON Calvados’ (60.1%, OB, Kirsch Import, cask # 17-520, 343 bottles)
I imagine there’s no more link between the west coast of Scotland and calvados than there is with Amarone, but never mind, we said we’d keep an open mind, didn’t we? Colour: pale gold. Nose: the previous cask’s contents are far more assertive here, with marked notes of banana and coconut—piña colada style. A family-sized bag of Haribo’s finest, though beware, high strength tends to flatten things a bit… With water: the proverbial pacifying lemon meringue pie. They ought to send some to Moscow, Washington and Tel Aviv. Mouth (neat): liquid sweeties, led by pear and lemon. The worst part is, I rather like it, it must be the inner child surfacing. With water: yes, very good. The apple does emerge a little, with elegance and restraint. Finish: same again. Comments: the previous one had a touch more of those positive edges, but this ‘calva’ is also very, very good in my humble view.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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August 26, 2025 |
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Another short selection of recent Glen Ord
Indeed, we often taste Glen Ord, simply because we love Glen Ord. Believe it or not, we never build our line-ups based on brands' market share, their popularity, or even their image. It’s also worth mentioning that the ‘square’ bottled versions from Diageo, some twenty years ago, made a very, very strong impression on us.
(The very extraordinary Glen Ord 30 yo from 2005 - WF 93) |
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Glen Ord 8 yo (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice Summer 2025 edition)
From two refill hogsheads) You’ll note that all this solstice and equinox business appears to matter a great deal more to the wilder northern tribes than it does to us, humble dwellers of middle-Europe. At least, that seems to be the case for the Scots. Colour: straw. Nose: pure multivitamin fruit juice. One might imagine that if you saw a doctor, he’d simply prescribe you a bottle of this baby—so straightforward, yet so utterly perfect. That said, it’s williams pear that gently leads the charge. Mouth: a notch more complexity on the palate. Caution, it may give the impression you can knock it back in one, but that would be unwise, there’s still a fair few volts humming in there. Patisserie notes, custard, honey, syrups, all come together with properly ripe fruit. Finish: inexplicably long, fresh, fruity, yet never lapsing into that excessive ‘eau-de-vie’ territory. Comments: top drawer stuff, dangerously drinkable (or is it!)
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
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Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2024 (56.4%, Milroy’s Soho Selection, bourbon barrel, cask # 800243) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: and here we go, an Ord-Clynelish. Not at all like the previous one, but here the waxy side simply can’t go unnoticed by any attentive taster. The rest is absolutely top-notch, sea air, apples and pears, fresh grass… What a nose indeed. With water: it folds entirely into paraffin and shoe polish. Mouth (neat): a thunderous arrival, earthy, almost combative, briny, fermentary, peppery… Water should bring a truce, as it usually does. With water: fermenting fruit, seawater, mezcal… Something odd must have happened, but we love it. Finish: long, salty, coastal. Comments: a strange Ord, perhaps a stencil mix-up, or yet another barcode editor update gone awry, as always. Either way, we’re absolutely taken with this very improbable and decidedly deviant Ord.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
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Glen Ord 12 yo 2012/2025 ‘Edition #46’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st fill bourbon barrels)
Colour: straw. Nose: this one’s the purest, the simplest (in the best possible sense) of the trio. And perhaps the most ‘Ord’ of the lot. Honeys, pollens, ripe apples, mirabelles, apricots, with a waft of coastal freshness. Nothing to fault here. With water: ultra-simple, excellent, on lemon fruit jelly and acacia honey. Mouth (neat): when simplicity becomes a virtue. Pear and apple juice, lemon juice, a saline touch, with hints of sourdough and white beer. With water: no real shift, just more softness and those gently malty, fermentary tones. Finish: fairly long, classic, drifting towards lemon focaccia. Comments: this is also very good indeed. Such class, Glen Ord.
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
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August 25, 2025 |
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Eight more secret whiskies
All hailing from bonnie Scotland. We’ll be going in completely at random, following our noses, with a free and positive spirit... And we'll finish with a celebratory malt. |
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Glenlaird 12 yo ‘Batch #1’ (48%, Tri Carragh, Stravaig Spirits, +/-2023)
This is a highlander, shall we expect a Clynelish? Colour: light gold. Nose: not Clynelish, far too much peat, grilled bacon, soot and burnt wood, we might veer towards Ardmore, although we must confess, we always struggle mightily to pin down and properly identify Ardmore, humbly admitted. Mouth: I haven’t the faintest idea what this is, but it’s very good. A slight ‘dirty’ edge à la Ben Nevis, certain batches thereof, yet also Ardmore’s sootiness, not forgetting the myriad incarnations of Loch Lomond, towards which we’re now leaning after all, all things considered. Lovely grapefruit with smoked paprika. Inch-something. Finish: rather long, salty, peppery and smoky, with the bacon remaining very much present. Comments: I’m rather fond of this, it’s a truly singular malt. So, Loch Lomond?
SGP:456 - 85 points. |
Since we're already deep in peat... |
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Big Peat 2010/2025 ‘Feis Isle 2025’ (50%, Douglas Laing, refill hogshead)
We do enjoy tasting all these releases signed by Captain Haddock. But is there still any Port Ellen inside? Colour: white wine. Nose: sunflower oil, seawater, lemon juice and ashes. Everything works like a charm. With water: no change whatsoever, other than the addition of a few old magazines soaked by the rain. Mouth (neat): flawless lemon, oysters, seawater, seaweed, gentian, ink and ashes. The precision of Caol Ila. With water: same again, it’s just so good. Finish: long, precise, salty but almost refreshing. Comments: very ‘clear line’, which is rather amusing for a blend. Well, they know exactly what they’re doing, and I must say I’m rather impressed…
SGP:457 - 88 points. |
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Wormtub 10 yo ‘Batch 5’ (56.1%, Atom Brands, sherry cask finish, 2024)
A secret single malt from Speyside, which of course means it could be just about anything. That said, given the name, we can probably rule out all Speysiders that don’t use wormtubs, can’t we? So, we’re likely down to Balmenach, Cragganmore, Glen Elgin and Mortlach, if I’m not mistaken. Colour: dark amber. Nose: ooh that’s lovely, a beautiful mix of caramel and maple syrup, with a stout-like undertone. Cracking nose. With water: sublime prunes and figs. Mouth (neat): perfect dark nougat, brandy, caramel, prunes, armagnac, Corinth raisins, toffee, millionaire shortbread… With water: in come the more tertiary notes, even a saline edge, coffee, broths, morels, pipe tobacco… Finish: much the same for quite some time, though it tightens up on a welcome vegetal acidity that keeps things fresh. Comments: Sam!?
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Update, Ballindalloch, Balmenach, Benrinnes, Cragganmore, Craigellachie, Glen Elgin, Mortlach, and Speyburn all use wormtubs. Thanks Tim. |
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Nectar Grove ‘Madeira Finish’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, blended malt, limited edition, 3,000 bottles, 2023)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is very lovely, somewhere between turrón and Nutella, or rather posh praline standing in effortlessly for that near-horror of a spread. Take 50g of almonds, 50g of hazelnuts and 100g of honey. Roast the nuts in the oven, then toss them in a pan with the honey. Finally, blitz the lot in a mixer. That’s it. Mouth: very, very good, more herbaceous, lively, nervy, with greater tension from citrus but also ‘Cointreau’. Don’t worry, I shan’t inflict a ‘Cointreau’ recipe on you. Finish: lovely finish on orange. The Madeira, whichever it was (Sercial? Malmsey? Others?) has remained discreetly in the background. Comments: really very, very good, indulgent yet elegant.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Timorous Beastie ‘The Cheese Cellar Collection No. 03’ (46%, Douglas Laing, Moscatel finish, 4,200 bottles, 2025) 
Right then, a Moscatel finish, rather not the most reassuring prospect in my book, and expectations aren’t exactly high. I cannot not think either of Caol Ila DE, or perhaps the White House tastefully redecorated by you-know-whom! But we’ve also understood this bottling nods to the legendary pairing of whisky and cheese. Fair enough, let’s dive in… Colour: full gold. Nose: but of course, they were going to do it well, steering clear of those overly pushy muscat notes, and instead preserving the balance of the malt, pastries, citrus and the like. Mouth: I’m sorry to report it’s really quite good, leaning towards herbal infusions, thyme, fennel, dog rose and such, and also various honeys. Finish: fairly long, while the muscat remains restrained, though we’re brushing up against the limits of sweetness. The oranges rescue things in the dying embers, but it’s now getting perilously sugary. Comments: we rather flirted with the edges of cloying sweetness all the way through but all in all it remained graceful.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
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The Perspective Series No.1 21 yo (43%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, blended Scotch, 6,300 bottles, 2019)
Now this is a full-on blend. That said, it was created by Doug McIvor, easily one of the most distinguished, competent and elegant figures in the whisky business since at least the 18th century. All right, all right, others may be nipping at that enviable status, but the key is to never, under any circumstance, match your tie with your pocket square, something even Washington D.C. seems to have grasped these days. Colour: full gold. Nose: a very malty blend, in the vein of Macallan, let’s say. Lovely wee touches of potting soil and tobacco, with a discreet graininess, then more tobacco and some praline. Mouth: all gentle elegance, more ‘blend’ in character now, but top-drawer stuff. Honey, nougat, white chocolate, black tea. Finish: not very long, granted, but the coconut, though a tad insistent, stays within bounds. Comments: a blend, but truly a super-blend.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
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Extra-Groovy Spirit Blend 1969–2017/2023 (40.1%, Thompson Bros., blended Scotch)
An improbable blend that defies commentary, with a design so very ‘Cream’ it can only resonate with the quasi-boomers who worship Clapton. Or Austin Powers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: sublime opening salvo on mango and mustard. That may sound odd, but it works a treat. The rest shifts to old white wines, Burgundy or Graves. Let’s not dig too deeply. Mouth: inexplicably good. I’ll need to look into the composition, as apparently, it’s all detailed on the back label. We're a bit late to the party... Still, it’s excellent and packs far more punch than that frightful 40.1% would suggest. Finish: not even short in the end. The mustard from the nose returns gloriously in this setting. Only the rear palate dips a touch, but at 40%, that’s to be expected. Comments: as they say at the Jazz Club, ‘great!’
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
One last dram, then, it’s been such fun playing with these improbable blends and hidden malts… Let’s take a step back in time to end on a high note... |
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Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson)
This was a special vetting for the marriage of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson. The exegetes still seem to be locked in debate over the origins of this malt, Macallan or Strathisla? Naturally, G&M ‘couldn’t possibly comment’, but it's thought that the earlier versions of Pride of Strathspey were indeed Macallan. This one, I’m not so sure. Then again, I’m not sure Andrew and Fergie were exactly the crowning glory of the British monarchy, so frankly.... Colour: reddish amber. Nose: this strongly resembles classic Macallan from the distillery’s glory days, with sublime coffee, faint hints of yellow oyster mushrooms (really), pipe tobacco from Dunhill’s (not that it matters), and an incredible blend of figs and marrow. Wow. Mouth: at this point, strength hardly matters, it’s all about the molecules doing their thing. Let’s say flat-leaf parsley, chestnut honey, figs and dates, mushrooms (let’s go with Caesar’s this time), and several old white wines still full of verve. We shan’t name names, this isn’t winefun.com. Finish: right, this nips the nose just a little, but after being bottled at 40% and left for forty years, you expect chamber music rather than a full symphony. Still, it’s Mozart. The aftertaste is light yet superbly honeyed. Comments: of course, we’re not going to mention the Epstein affair (S., tsk…).
SGP:451 - 92 points. |
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August 22, 2025 |
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A few Speysides from Speyside’s
It's always been tricky to tell the difference, at least on paper, between “Speyside Distillery” and, say, “A Speyside Distillery”. How many secret Glenfarclas have we tasted, thinking they were from “Speyside”? And the other way round? Oh, our poor heads… Anyway, the ones we’ll be taking a quick look at today really should be Speysides from Speyside Distillery. Just be aware: don’t confuse those labelled “Spey” with “Glen Spey” … Ah well, we’ll survive… |
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Spey ‘Trutina’ (46%, OB, bourbon casks, 18,000 bottles, 2016)
We’re not particularly used to these NAS versions, the ones we mostly remember—though not always for the best reasons—being those poor Drumguishes. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: apple juice and quite a bit of fresh plaster, oatcakes, porridge, a little pear, some grist… The bourbon casks were rather shy here, but one appreciates this utterly natural character, no make-up at all. Mouth: very much like artisanal pear eau-de-vie, plus some hay and lemon peel. Not very easy, but I think it could handily replace Russian vodka in cocktails. Finish: medium length, dry and herbal profile, rather astringent. Comments: actually, this isn’t too bad, frankly, all in all it’s honest.
SGP:461 - 70 points. |
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Spey ‘Fumare Cask Strength Batch 2’ (60.4%, OB, bourbon barrels, 1,500 bottles, 2019)
A peated version, as the name suggests. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: on beer, bread dough and a touch of soot, pear juice, clinker, then increasingly assertive coal ash. With water: a few whiffs of antiseptic and a return of the porridge. Mouth (neat): this is very young peat in the style of other very young peaters, such as rather undercooked Ledaigs or Ballantruans, but with less definition than, say, the Port Charlottes or the Kilchomans. Rather hot, in fact, with this note of smoked pear over peat and a growing harshness. With water: it becomes truly harsh, rasping, a little difficult. Finish: long, overpowering, but more herbal than smoky by this stage. Comments: no prisoners here. In fact, it’s really not bad, but in the peat aisle, competition is fierce. And it’s pretty fiery.
SGP:367 - 79 points. |
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The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.1%, Truth & Consequences, refill + 1st fill bourbon, cask #1620R, 244 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: there’s quite a singular metallic edge here, we’re reminded of old aluminium mess tins from military days, but also bananas, mangoes, a touch of coconut and again those apples and pears, just like in the official bottlings. The first fill bourbon seems to have done its job. With water: a little patchouli and Turkish delight, gives off a whiff of Kathmandu (circa the 1960s). Mouth (neat): the American oak influence is instantly apparent, with coconut, banana, vanilla, candyfloss, nutmeg… With water: in come the peaches, white grapes, nectarines… The whole is now well balanced. Finish: long, fruity, with the arrival of toffee apples. Comments: a very clever use of bourbon wood, I’m rather fond of this young Speyside.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2014/2024 (56.9%, Hogshead Import, 1st fill vin santo octave, 72 bottles)
Vin santo? Now that’s quite a bit more adventurous, if you ask me… Colour: bronze amber. Nose: soft and compact, on dried raisins and goji berries as expected, with pink grapefruit lingering in the background. So far, so good. With water: lovely vinosity, in a pineau or ratafia style. Mouth (neat): even more earthy and winey, marked by grape stalks and cedarwood, plus mulled wine spices. With water: sultanas and currants come roaring back. Finish: long, still on dried fruits but with added black pepper. Comments: truly a very good Christmas whisky. Ach, either we’re far too early or well too late.
SGP:651 - 82 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 21 yo 1996/2018 (51.5%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, sherry butt, cask #DL 12614, 215 bottles)
Once again we’re terribly behind, so let’s crack on. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re into walnuts, tobacco, earth, humus, mushrooms, old tree stumps… Lovely! With water: glorious wafts of a generous plate of cèpes flambéed in Armagnac with garlic. Mouth (neat): some unexpected yet charming tropical fruits—mango, passion fruit, papaya—all drizzled with aromatic honey. A fun return of lime blossom and patchouli. With water: oh yes, this is very good indeed, with orange liqueur making an entrance, and still a touch of garlic, though more like wild garlic this time—less jarring. Finish: medium length but a beautiful arrival of figs and tobacco, all nicely honeyed. Comments: what a lovely surprise!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 32 yo 1991/2023 (49.2%, Maltbarn, The 26, sherry cask, 38 bottles)
Granted, a tiny outturn, but that doesn’t mean the whisky isn’t quite grand. Colour: gold. Nose: delicate stuff, somewhere between orgeat, pistachio cream, walnut wine, bergamot, and linden infusion… I really like this nose, full of refined elegance. Mouth: the palate answers back with more freshness, even a touch of nervous energy, bringing green notes and citrus peel… It’s lacking a bit of roundness now, but that’s just how we like it. Finish: same again. Little touches of fennel and caraway alongside all those zesty notes. Comments: the palate is quite different from the nose. Two whiskies in one, splendid.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
We'll leave it there, this way we’ll avoid accidentally tasting independent Glenfarclas ‘by mistake’… |
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August 21, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Clynelish (plus two secret ones)
I feel I must insist: I find it a real shame that Clynelish is disappearing from independent ranges—at least under its own name—especially when the official range is so limited. It’s a malt with real character; it’s the opposite of “just another Speysider” that relies on active casks to stand out… In short, I hope it doesn’t become a missing piece in the marvellous puzzle of Scotch malts. Because a puzzle with a missing piece—well, you know what I mean… |
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Clynelish 17 yo 2008/2025 (53.1%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Exchange, bourbon cask series, bourbon barrel, cask #800073, 186 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the purest chalk and slate, seamlessly entwined with paraffin oil, candlewax and green apple juice, the barrel only whispering of vanilla and honey, with great restraint. With water: virtually unchanged, perhaps a touch of vineyard peach and a wisp of flint, if one insists. Mouth (neat): powerful, cutting, yet texturally ample. The chalk and wax return, but this time it's lemon stepping in for the green apple. A stunning clarity of flavour. With water: again, water alters very little, save for some playful hints of fennel and aniseed adding yet more lift. Finish: long, pristine, on citrus fruits and, once again, those aniseed touches. The world’s best pastis, if you will. The aftertaste is nicely mineral and a little saline, one might almost find a wee oyster lurking in there. A light lemon fizz too. Comments: a Clynelish close to the distillate, which matters all the more with this style. The barrel merely serving as a jewel box for this little gem.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)
We had found some 1996 ex-sherries a little unbalanced, but here we are in good hands and the vintage was a great one! Incidentally, a distiller once told me that vintages meant nothing, to which I replied by asking why they put them on their labels then. Ha. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a solid hit of tar at first, rather unusual, followed by linseed oil, then it simply unfolds like a fine white Burgundy, perhaps a Meursault. Crushed chalk, toasted bread, lemon marmalade, honeysuckle, beeswax... Mouth: tremendous bitterness, in the realm of propolis, lemon, pistachio butter, candied citron, lime juice, then a resinous touch, probably from the wood, veering towards tar liqueur (back again!) Finish: very long and markedly more maritime. Oysters with green peppercorns, then lemon marmalade returning. A drop of amaro, followed by more pepper, even chilli heat in the aftertaste. Comments: a perfect bridge between this and the 1972 and 1983 vintages. Ha, vintages… In any case, this is splendid.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
We want more Clynelish again! Well then, since we’re on the subject… |
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Distilled in Sutherland 5 yo (47.9%, Thompson Bros. for Whisky Fair Limburg 2024, blended malt, 120 bottles)
A blend of Clynelish and Dornoch, it would appear. We’re slightly behind schedule… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: cider apples and gooseberries mingled with plaster and pear and apple eaux-de-vie. In the background, a touch of soot and the proverbial paraffin oil rather than beeswax. Mouth: ah I do like this, it's all on small berries, holly, rowan, service tree, also little apples, jujubes, medlars and all those things that aren’t always terribly aromatic but are charming and delicate in flavour. Finish: fairly long, with the chalk closing up shop while the pear sings in the aftertaste, along with a slightly oily texture. Comments: quite 'eau-de-vie' in style, or even ultra-luxury vodka, which is of course a compliment—as long as it’s not Kremlinskaia, naturally.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Secret Highland Distillery 14 yo 2010/2024 (51.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams for the Wicked Whisky Compagnie, Belgium, PX hogshead)
It’s hit or miss… Colour: amber. Nose: hit—it smells of praline mingled with beeswax, boot polish and chestnut honey. No overload of raisins, mercifully. With water: wafts of old cellars and still quite a bit of polish. Soot, saltpetre, very dark chocolate. Mouth (neat): Clynelish and sherry can clash, in my modest experience, but that’s not the case here, it’s just packed with polish, smoked seafood (oysters) and black pepper. Quite the beast. With water: well then, here’s a Clynelish holding its own against the sherry. I’m not saying there aren’t a few squeaks and groans along the way, but it all ends on tar and a rather characteristic salinity. Or perhaps not so characteristic after all. Finish: long and properly saline, we’re almost heading into coastal amontillado territory. Comments: really very lovely, though one wonders how it might fare with shrimp croquettes from the Belgian coast. A very dry PX.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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August 20, 2025 |
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Three Glen Elgin finished in
more difficult sherry
Let’s remember that Glen Elgin was also White Horse, the absolute star among relatively common branded blends. But today, we’ll also be getting some palo cortado, malaga and amontillado. Let’s say our prayers — here we go… |
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Glen Elgin-Glenlivet 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 2025) 
This new baby was sheltered in palo cortado since 2023, rather smart if you ask me. Colour: pale gold. Nose: mustard and pepper, this is quite an extreme example of dry sherry, with no apparent fruitiness. Damp wood, hay, a wee balsamic touch, perhaps a few small berries, rowan, service tree, that sort of thing… Otherwise it is dry and austere. Mouth: spicy spruce, damp cardboard, apple peelings, a drop of lighter fluid. Finish: same again, with the mustard returning to the party. Comments: as dry as a hanged man’s humour, this rather improbable youngster. In truth, it is quite un-Cadenhead, I would say.
SGP:361 - 72 points. |
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Glen Elgin 12 yo (52.7%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Northern Ireland, Malaga wine finish, cask #373074, 257 bottles)
We remain in the south of Spain, though on the Mediterranean rather than the Atlantic. Colour: gold. Nose: far more balanced, thus with fruit, here small cider apples and jujubes, also a lovely bakery-yeast side and some multifloral pollen. With water: damp earth of various kinds and fresh mushrooms. Mouth (neat): rather powerful, on bitters and roots, so not that ‘sexy’ for now. Hints of tiger balm and bitter orange play upon your lips. With water: there we are, it loosens up a little, though in moderation, on tobacco and orange zest. Finish: in fact, it remains a tad austere, around roots, celery, also turnips and salsify cooked with honey… Comments: much, much better all the same.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2014/2025 (57.3%, Lady of the Glen, Amontillado Finish, cask #800982, 236 bottles)
Telling a palo cortado from an amontillado in a finishing is nothing short of wizardry, and we’ll freely admit we are quite unable to do so. Colour: full gold. Nose: earth, peppers and oranges in various guises. Will that do for you? With water: notes of Swiss cheese fondue, kirsch and white wine. I promise. Mouth (neat): the oranges save the world, at least here, yet it remains a touch… improbable. Think bitter orange liqueur with pepper and ginger. With water: ah, that’s better, though still a tad uncertain (Gruyère, pepper, kirsch and glue, really?) Finish: very long, very peppery, fairly bitter. Notes of glue and Seville orange. Comments: another highly acrobatic Glen Elgin, let us be frank, but really very, very decent.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
I think we shall survive. |
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August 19, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today
Glendullan once more
This is part of our special programme “Let’s Sample As Many As Possible of the Distilleries No One Ever Talks About”. It’s not exactly “SEO-friendly” or naturally catchy, but we couldn’t give a toss. At least no one will accuse us of resorting to clickbait, will they? |
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Glendullan 15 yo 2009/2025 (55.5%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead finish, cask #11, 338 bottles)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: very vinous, but in the good sense, really giving you the feeling of nosing some old brandy de Jerez, only much less sweetened or boosted by whatever-it-is. Bags of chocolate, powdered coffee, fig spirit, walnut liqueur… With water: very ripe figs and roasted pecans join the party. Mouth (neat): rich, firing straight away on leather, tobacco and bitter orange. Then it carries on with more leather, tobacco and bitter orange, before settling on more leather yet, tobacco and bitter orange. And chocolate. What you would call a compact and coherent palate. With water: becomes spicier, in a lovely fashion, with several kinds of pepper and, above all, plenty of juniper and clove. Finish: long and creamy, chocolatey again. Pepper and chocolate are still dancing together very nicely. Comments: we like this compact sherried Glendullan rather a lot.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Glendullan 22 yo 2002/2024 (54.1%, The Whisky Blues, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #10908, 198 bottles)
Always those very beautiful labels, very poetic. Colour: gold. Nose: this noses like a pina colada enjoyed at the Saratoga in good company (JM, get out of this body!) at first, which might seem alarming but the coconut fades quickly, giving way to ripe bananas, chamomile tea, Sicilian pistachio butter and artisanal vanilla cream. Also appearing are touches of mandarin and a little fresh sawdust, though without the slightest excess. Rather like a good bourbon, really… With water: carries on in the same vein. Mouth (neat): sweet touches at first, with banana liqueur, pineapple liqueur, soft honey (acacia, for example) and quite a lot of orange-flavoured buttercream. That last element might sound worrying, but we could eat a whole bucket of it without hesitation. With water: it gathers around malt and vanilla fudge. Finish: fairly long, still creamy, still with plenty of orange-flavoured buttercream. Very gentle spices in the aftertaste. Comments: this Glendullan is jolly good, even if one suspects the barrel has done a large part of the job. Job very well done.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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August 18, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glenmorangie NAS vs Westport sherry |
Westport is supposed to be the name given to Glenmorangie with a teaspoon of Glen Moray added, but I imagine that since Glen Moray joined another stable, namely the French group La Martiniquaise, a different malt is now used, though that’s far from certain. Unless, of course, the name Westport is no longer in use; in any case, we’ve never tasted one that was distilled after 2006. But let’s begin, if you don’t mind, with a little Glenmorangie NAS ‘Triple Cask Reserve’. I often say that this kind of name reminds me of the time when small watch brands, caught up in the race to boast ever more jewels in their movements (17, 25, 30 or more…), would add ones that served absolutely no mechanical purpose, they were just there to look posh or ‘technical’ or ‘improved’ or whatever crosses the minds of marketeers… |
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Glenmorangie ‘Triple Cask Reserve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025) 
A mix of ex-bourbon, new charred oak and ex-rye casks, sold at a very gentle price in France, under €30 in certain hypermarkets. Colour: gold. Nose: typical Glenmorangie, that is to say rather rounded and soft, on pastries and, in this case, a generous dollop of custard. We then veer more towards malt, lager beer, fresh baguette (mais bien sûr) and honey laced with a touch of turmeric. Mouth: coherent, with zest, more oak but without ever veering into plankishness, and a little more tension than on the nose. On the other hand, it then turns a tad prickly and green, even slightly sour, perhaps it’s the active casks responsible. Or is it the rye? Finish: decent length, some clear tannicity, green tea and a bit of ale. Aftertaste on white pepper and a suggestion of ginger recalling the turmeric from the nose. Comments: not bad at all, I think, though perhaps better served cool, say at 12°C.
SGP:461 – 79 points. |
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Westport 21 yo 2003/2025 (53%, Decadent Drams, sherry wood, 228 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: quite a different kettle of fish altogether, here the sherry’s brought along tobacco, cedarwood, chestnut honey, forest floor, mosses, a touch of tar (no sulphur at all, let’s not get carried away) and eventually some modelling clay that rather recalls a distillery located a bit further up the east coast. Also chestnut purée. With water: it drifts back somewhat towards a more classical Glenmorangie profile, with stewed apple and cinnamon. So, it loses in originality but gains in balance. Mouth (neat): rich, rather spicy, even peppery right from the off, in the style of a goulash prepared with honey and candied sugar. We’ll have to ask our Hungarian friends whether such a thing exists. Also some speculoos and… rye bread! With water: we stay in spicy sherry territory, almost mustardy now, with pipe tobacco returning. Harvey’s sauce. Fine bitterness and a touch of cinchona. Finish: long, still spicy. Honey, pepper and mustard, we really must try that in a sauce. Comments: a truly distinctive bottle, one that stays with you, I think. By the way, the giraffe on the label, evoking the distillery’s tall, narrow-necked stills, is indeed Glenmorangie’s mascot. No, Ardbeg did not go with the hippopotamus…
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
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August 17, 2025 |
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August 15, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Lindores Abbey |
We don't often get to taste 'new cats' on their own like this, except perhaps Daftmill and Ardnamurchan. But rest assured, it’s something you’ll be seeing more and more of on WF… And here we are in the Lowlands, right across from the famous abbey where Scotch whisky was born - at any rate, no one’s ever managed to prove otherwise. |
(Lindores Abbey Distillery) |
Oh, and the address? Naturally, it’s ‘Abbey Road’. And on top of that, today is the Feast of the Assumption — how fitting, WF! (Just joking) |
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Lindores Abbey ‘The Cask of Lindores II’ (49.4%, OB, bourbon cask, 2023)
I don’t believe we ever tried Batch 1. Colour: white wine. Nose: green pears, vanilla and chalk. It’s very simple, square-cut, efficient, pretty. In the second layer, a few whiffs of apple shampoo – that’s right. Mouth: herbaceous but also fruity, close to barley and yellow citrus. A few touches of varnish, before the pear returns, and finally a sack of 245 kilos of jelly babies. Finish: fairly long, on fruity sweets like those famous Swiss Sugus. Comments: all this is very ‘Lowland’, a bit in the style of certain old Auchentoshans from days gone by. Is it triple distilled?
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
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Lindores Abbey ‘Thiron 2024’ (49.4%, OB)
A rather amusing tale of partnership with the mother abbey of Lindores, the Abbey of Tiron, in France at Thiron-Gardais, south-west of Paris. This youngster matured in three types of casks, namely ex-red wine, ex-bourbon and fresh French oak from the region around the Abbey of Tiron itself. Why not! Colour: straw. Nose: similar to the previous one, though a tad more marked by fresh oak, which, you’ll say, was to be expected. The good news is that the red wine influence is barely noticeable. It’s pretty, balanced, and dare I say, suitably monastic. Mouth: nice presence, fruity, with a clearly defined but fresh woodiness, a touch of pepper, and plenty of apples. Finish: rather herbal, though not particularly long, on infusions and liquorice wood. Comments: a very charming bottle, just a wee touch too oaky for me.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
With a shout-out to all our very distinguished Belgian friends from the now very quiet Lindores Whisky Club in Ostend. |
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August 14, 2025 |
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Some Glenallachie and quite a bit of sherry
Amazing how this name has grown in importance in recent years. Well done. |
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Glenallachie 12 yo ‘Sauternes Wine Cask Finish’ (48%, OB, 6,000 bottles, +/-2022)
These are obviously not the kinds of expressions we usually favour (the ‘wineskies’), yet you never know, Sauternes can sometimes work rather well and at GA they do know their way around finishing/double maturation… Colour: light gold. Nose: vanilla, apricot yoghurt, mirabelle yoghurt, all-flower honey ‘from the European Union’, then herbal infusions, lime blossom, chamomile and so on. Nothing to complain about, a lovely nose. Mouth: quite creamy, close to a first fill bourbon, without too many obvious nods to Sauternes, rather on a fine apricot tart topped with vanilla cream and acacia honey. A few little jellybabies from Haribo. Finish: medium in length yet tighter, leaning more towards lemon. The aftertaste is more herbal. Lemon jellybabies, all in all. Comments: cool, very easy bottling.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Glenallachie 14 yo 2007/2022 (64.9%, Signatory Vintage for Waldhaus am See, Animal Edition No.2, first fill sherry butt, cask #900164, 538 bottles)
Here we are in St. Moritz, Switzerland, in the Engadine. A charming place, though in this case, at 65% vol., it’s clearly not for the faint of heart. Colour: dark amber. Nose: caramel, toffee, fudge, millionaire’s shortbread (unsurprising in St. Moritz), dried raisins… But the alcohol does block it a little. With water: sherry, sherry, sherry. A rather pleasant vinosity, in fact. Mouth (neat): it packs a punch and feels a touch rustic. Corn syrup and caramel. With water: it remains a bit rough, close to the eaux-de-vie of which, I’m certain, they produce a fine contingent in the Engadine. Plenty of kirsch, above all. Finish: same again, it’s a bit monolithic. Comments: perhaps straight from the bottle after a long day’s skiing? Quite a beast, at any rate.
SGP:461 - 82 points. |
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Glenallachie 9 yo 2014/2024 (58.6%, Best Dram, 1st fill PX sherry hogshead, cask #9900214, 315 bottles)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: absolutely all in on the toffee and caramel, as if this bottle had been tailor-made for Starbucks! As such, it’s simple, but very charming in that simplicity. With water: sorry, but we must roll out the Mars bars once again. Family pack, please, plus a superbly ‘over the top’ mix of honey and moscatel. Mouth (neat): liquid caramel, but also all manner of young Catalan rancios and thick, sweet muscats. PX in action, but here it seems to work rather well. Beware: if your lips start sticking together mid-tasting, that’s perfectly normal, no need to dash off to your doctor. With water: splendid! Heaps of raisins, but we’ve nothing against raisins. Finish: same again. Comments: extremely full-on in the sweet PX style (PX isn’t always sweet) but I must confess I rather like this extravagant side. The neighbours will love it.
SGP:741 - 86 points. |
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Glenallachie 14 yo 2008/2023 (54.1%, Duncan Taylor, Single Cask Collection, sherry, cask #30900803, 628 bottles)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: fairly dry sherry, rum, very dry raisins, nuts, pecan pie, roasted peanuts… With water: raisin rolls, scones, cheesecake with muscat raisins. Mouth (neat): there’s a PX side to it, but drier, less extroverted, and therefore perhaps a little less, shall we say, stimulating. Bitter oranges and grey pepper. With water: it’s the cask’s ‘honey’ that takes the lead, and one doesn’t feel the distillate has much else to say. Finish: fairly long, on honey and sultanas. The aftertaste is more herbal. Comments: in this style, I tend to think it’s better when it goes fully extreme, decadent, exuberant and frankly ‘too much’, if we’re doing it at all. Here, it’s really very lovely, but still a touch on the polite side…
SGP:651 - 80 points. |
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Glenallachie 2008/2022 (64.7%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Kirsch Import Germany, sherry butt, cask #80901090, 598 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: curiously gentle and mild given the voltage, though it still carries notes of old walnut, damp wine cellar (right, dunnage) and cabbage leaf. With water: saltpetre and slag. Not exactly top-notch, let’s say. Mouth (neat): a little muddled, on green pepper, artichokes, aubergines, pea pods and leather. I doubt the intention was for anyone to tackle this baby without a single drop of H2O – it’s as rough as a Prussian Unterfeldwebel, as my dear grandmother, born in the 19th century, might have put it. With water: better, you’ll say it was about time, but it still feels rough and, frankly, somewhat marked by sulphur. Finish: fairly long, more herbal, yet also with bitter oranges. Comments: not hugely convinced by this cask, which clashes like a rapper who’s lost his backing track.
SGP:471 - 77 points. |
Time for one last one, as we’re starting to flag (just a bit) … Come on, let’s make an effort! |
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Glenallachie 30 yo ‘Batch 4’ (49.1%, OB, cask strength, 2024)
We’ve never tried any of the previous 30-year-old batches. In this case, it’s five casks, three PX and two oloroso, though we don’t know if this was full maturation or just re-racked ‘at the right time’. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: strawberry jam turbocharged with kirsch and cognac at first, then leather, tobacco, mulled wine and, indeed, rancio come quickly to the rescue. Whiffs of rose petals and patchouli lend charm to this composition which, let’s admit, gave us a bit of a fright at the outset. Mouth: this is good, very aromatic, rather oriental in its spicing, almost like tasting Japanese red bean paste seasoned with umeshu and caraway. If that sounds strange, don’t worry, it’s a very fine old Glenallachie, even if it feels as though it’s been through a touch of cosmetic surgery in Istanbul or São Paulo. In short, very good, just a little surprising. Finish: long, sweet, passing through pine nuts and old plum liqueur, which ties back to the aforementioned umeshu. It ends on blackberry, raspberry and blueberry jams. Comments: a lot of cask work here, quite evidently. Raspberry really is something else!
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
In the end, our favourite was the 9-year-old from Best Dram. Long live Best Dram! |
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August 13, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Glengoyne
We miss seeing much of Glengoyne these days; twenty years ago, the famous zero-peat Highlander was a regular presence on WF. But that was another time…
(Glengoyne has the amusing (and rather marketing-friendly) quirk of distilling its whiskies in the Highlands but maturing them in warehouses on the other side of the road, in the Lowlands.) |
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Glengoyne 18 yo (43%, OB, +/-2024)
Nice to see this one now at 43% vol., as more recent versions of the 18-year-old were still bottled at 40% vol., which did feel rather stingy in the current climate. Here we have a marriage of first fill and refill sherry. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s a fact, this is quite a splendid nose, very gentle, very classical, with a subtle maltiness complemented by soft honeys, orange liqueurs, lemon peel, a twenty-five-kilo sack of fully ripe apples and a two-hundred-and-fifty-gram bag of sultanas. In truth, the sherry plays in counterpoint and never once overwhelms at this stage. Mouth: to be frank, it brings to mind certain old bottlings of Macallan, doubtless it’s the sherry that’s responsible for that impression. Let’s say the 18-year-old from vintages of the 1970s. So, sultanas, the faintest touch of menthol, a very light earthy and mushroomy side, orange cake, honeyed gingerbread and apricot, plus a wisp of tobacco. Finish: not very long yet perfectly classical. Honeyed tisane and very ripe apples in the aftertaste. Comments: a slightly amped-up version would be a smash hit.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
We’ll dig out an old version to serve as a sparring partner… |
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Glengoyne 1972/2013 (46.8%, Malts of Scotland, Angel’s Choice, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 13009, 124 bottles)
We’re still on the hunt for what might have caused that remarkable abundance of extraordinary malts from the 1972 vintage—perhaps an alignment of planets? Or maybe a massive clearance of first-class casks just as the loch of whisky at the time had reached truly excessive levels? Colour: gold. Nose: simply s.u.b.l.i.m.e. Very delicate and wholly unexpected wisps of smoke wafting over a basket of dried or fully ripe fruits. Apricots lead the dance, followed in step by very ripe plums and papayas, then comes an exquisitely subtle beeswax. There’s much more besides, but let’s move on if you don’t mind. Mouth: a great whisky, a great vintage, and in addition a bourbon cask that has left the distillate largely unmarked. This could almost have been a fifty-year-old Grande Champagne from an excellent small house. Let’s move along, this skittle, as we say here, is twelve years old and there were only one hundred and twenty-four of them. Finish: same again, but how superb it is! Comments: so, was there an alignment of planets over the Highlands in 1972? Or perhaps a comet in 1971, likely the year of the barley harvest?
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
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August 12, 2025 |
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Seager Evans’s distillery, built in 1958–1959, was, as R.J.S.S. McDowall wrote at the time, “such a change from the many drab places which exist, a breakaway indeed from the almost studied careless shabbiness of the Speyside distilleries.” Quite so. The current ‘new’ owners, Elixir Distillers, have not yet released any spirit they’ve distilled themselves, but they have already offered some interesting ‘semi-official’ bottlings from existing stocks, such as this one… |
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Tormore 10 yo ‘Toasted Barrels’ (48%, OB, Blueprint Cask Program, 1,500 bottles, 2025)
The ‘replica’ wave shows no sign of retreating, and this design strongly evokes the old official Tormores from the 1970s. You’ll say those were excellent!... Toasted casks are a different breed from the usual charred ones typically used for whisky, but a strong toast will also leave its mark on the contents, leaning towards coffee yet with fewer tannins. Colour: straw. Nose: for the moment we’re on mineral and citrusy tension, which brings to mind some young Pulteneys we’ve just sampled. It’s fresh, with a fatty side on the nose (sunflower oil, green banana, peanut butter) but, thank goodness, there’s no avalanche of coconut and vanilla in sight. A few dandelion petals fluttering in the background. Mouth: there’s a distinctly spicy and resinous edge here, one wonders whether it’s European oak—or even Mizunara? Also heaps of maquis honey with a punchy character, and a definite juniper note that’ll have you sailing straight across the North Sea to Holland. Let’s not forget the speculoos, which are also quite dominant. All in all, it comes across as more of a blend component, and in fact that’s exactly what it is, the future ‘new’ Tormores won’t be flying solo in this particular style. Finish: hints of mint liqueur and turmeric. Comments: very unusual and leaning more towards the spirit of some young Germanic distilleries, I’d say. That said, it’s very well executed.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Tormore 13 yo 2011/2024 (54.3%, The Whisky Cask Company, oloroso finish, 221 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: of course, a finish is not quite the same as full maturation in second-fill, but sometimes you get awfully close, and that seems to be the case here. Lovely toffee, dunnage, old bodega butt from Jerez, coffee, the inevitable slightly singed walnut cake… With water: plumes of pipe tobacco. Haven’t puffed one in ages, barring a borrowed pipe from our friend Max last year, but still adore the aroma. Mouth (neat): opens with orange marmalade laced with ginger and pepper, then moves into wildflower honey (nothing from large-scale agriculture), before circling back to toffee and fudgy caramel. I find this very good and rather successful. With water: classic sherried whisky territory, textbook stuff really, and without the slightest fault—no spent matches, no truffle, no town gas, no cabbage soup. Finish: same again, very good, creamy, orange, caramel and fudge. The pepper makes a welcome comeback on the aftertaste. Comments: very well done, TWCC.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Perhaps a few older Tormores?... |
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Tormore 33 yo 1990/2023 (49.8%, Brave New Spirits, Cask Masters, 190 bottles, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #1989)
Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes indeed, this has a lovely fatness right from the start—fresh butter and sesame oil, glorious notes of freshly snipped greenery, then clementines and a whole basket of apples. Add a few floral touches and you’re looking at a nose that’s supremely elegant and rather classic. Mouth: brilliant, perhaps teetering on the edge of coconut macaron overload, but it’s so well balanced here that it becomes utterly charming. Flower jelly, green tea, candied sugar, and once again that overflowing basket of apples, plums, pears, peaches, greengages, apricots, and… (S., we get the point). Finish: medium in length, once more nicely fatty, with a touch of pistachio oil and some orange. The orange cleverly keeps the coconut in check, which is no small achievement, mind you. Comments: a beautiful ‘young old’ malt, with the layered complexity of age and the sprightly brightness of youth. You see what I mean…
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
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Tormore 31 yo 1992/2024 ‘For Mankind’ (45.4%, The Whisky Barrel, Apollo 11 55th anniversary, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #1036, 263 bottles)
I fear humanity may be in need of more than a fine whisky and a trip to the moon in these trying times. Colour: deep gold. Nose: that lovely fatness returns straight away, but here it shifts quickly toward dark turrón and maple syrup, kougelhopf, and damp forest floor after a summer rain. There are whiffs of basalt too, though the question is whether they’ll carry over to the palate, which could be slightly awkward. Let’s see… Mouth: not at all, it’s a precise oloroso profile, led by both old and green walnut, then cocoa and dark tobacco. Bone-dry like a great oloroso, it deserves nothing but applause. Finish: ah, now the fruits arrive, in a bit of a chaotic stampede. The faintest brush of black truffle and saltpetre. Comments: the perfect counterpoint to the 1990. Give it a little time and, despite the relatively low strength, a drop of water to ‘stir up the fruits’.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Tormore 33 yo 1992/2025 (53.7%, Whiskyland, chapter 12, 157 bottles)
The label rather brings to mind the old film ‘The Wicker Man’, doesn’t it? Perhaps this is a whisky intended for certain wild rituals in the far northern reaches of Scotland, let’s see. Colour: straw. Nose: well now, it’s the same—or nearly—as the 1990, only a touch more refined, but conversely a little less fruity. A bit more on perfectly ripe baby banana, and absolutely no trace of coconut, so none of that ‘Scottish piña colada’ effect here. You see what I mean. With water: we’re setting course for minerality and mirabelle plums. Very lovely, fresh, elegant, easy-going, well-balanced. Since it’s just us here, it rather brings to mind those old Benriachs from the 1970s. Mouth (neat): rich, fruity, and spot on. Fruit salad with honey and olive oil, oranges of every variety, and a very welcome touch of salt. I do think we don’t mention salinity often enough when it comes to mouthfeel in malt whisky. With water: the citrus takes centre stage now. Very fine indeed. Finish: ultra-classic, fresh and fruity, with loads of small, slightly fatty components that remain eminently elegant. Comments: what a trio these three older Tormores have made!
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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August 11, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today
Balvenie and Burnside |
Burnside is the name given to teaspooned Balvenie, as everyone knows, so it’s officially a blended malt. What we don’t know, however, is the size of the teaspoon used in the process, nor what it’s made of. Scrap metal? Brass? Copper? Silver? Solid gold?
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Burnside 28 yo 1996/2025 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection)
A rather amusing case (sort of) since while these Burnsides are indeed produced by William Grant, it is WM Cadenhead who owns the brand. One imagines there’s ample material here to keep a few lawyers in cigars, but let’s not trouble ourselves with such matters between gentlemen. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakable whiffs of slate, mirabelle plums and apricots, then yellow blooms, mimosa, chamomile, broom and yarrow… Followed by freshly baked brioche with the merest drop of orange blossom water. Classical, archetypal, fresh and upbeat, not what one would call a labyrinthine dram at 28. Mouth: fairly rich, heavily leaning towards honey and preserves, where apricot and mirabelle once more make a confident showing, joined by a juicy Williams pear. Syrupy notes then take the reins, rendering the whole affair rather luscious, though some citrus keeps things agreeably in check. Finish: medium in length, mostly on honeys and syrups drawn from yellow flowers and fruits, with a most decisive touch of mullein. A dusting of white pepper edges forward in the aftertaste. Comments: an utterly charming little dram, very much in the Balvenie mould. The reticent cask influence is an unqualified asset.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
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Balvenie 19 yo ‘A Revelation of Cask and Character’ (47.5%, OB, The Balvenie Stories, European oak sherry, 2023)
A proper full maturation in sherry casks, which is rather less common than many would imagine. European oak is seldom used as well, come to that. This bottling pays tribute to those charming coopers, which is, of course, a much more familiar theme in whisky, isn’t it. Colour: full gold. Nose: all of Balvenie’s signature traits are on display here, as we’re not dealing with a full-blown sherry assault, though more in the direction of prunes wrapped in bacon than mirabelle jam, even if a few somewhat unexpected perfumy notes do flutter in—I’m thinking iris, a lightly musky edge, posh cologne, orange blossom water, even a splash of raspberry eau-de-vie… Mouth: stewed red fruits show themselves fairly boldly upfront, with even a slight sangria character (well done to the Spanish coopers!) yet the balance is never lost, as the oranges, including bitter ones, then march in to complete the picture, alongside dark honeys. A whisper of leather. Finish: the leather and cherry-scented tobacco take the reins, the whole being of moderate length. Comments: a very, very lovely variant of Balvenie, though we do still lean towards their versions showcasing massive yellow fruits, ha.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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