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January 27, 2026 |
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A quartet of young Torabhaig
We’ve got a few ultra-rare Taliskers in the pipeline, but since we had plenty towards the end of last year, we’ll be tasting some young Torabhaig today instead. You’re right, they must be young, as the new Skye distillery only started operating in 2017.
(Torabhaig) |
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Torabhaig ‘Sound of Sleat’ (46%, OB, Legacy Series, Chapter No.4, 2025) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re back on that rather fatty peat, brimming with iodine and seaweed, which we found most appealing when we first tried Torabhaig’s inaugural vintage that was a 2017. This one carries on with oyster shell and damp chalk, nothing too complex really, but then again, complexity isn’t always what one’s after, is it. Mouth: a touch of new oak makes an entrance, bringing along pepper and curry notes that slightly throw off the malt’s freshness, though the rest falls neatly into place with sooty, ashy, and coastal touches. Finish: long, saline and extremely peppery, inevitably calling to mind that other nearby malt beginning with T. Comments: the new oak’s a slight misstep, but overall, this remains most charming. I did much prefer ‘Cnoc Na Moine’ though.
SGP:466 - 84 points. |
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Torabhaig 2018/2023 ‘Club Reserve Release No.5’ (60.7%, OB, Barbados rum barrel, cask #1056, 293 bottles) 
Rum, why not. It’s become quite common, but I remember the days when those very, very rare Springbanks matured in rum casks had everyone clamouring for a bottle. Colour: white wine. Nose: lamp oil and graphite grease. That’s all for now, but we’re rather fond of it. With water: flint and basalt, plus a touch of fresh rubber. Is that the rum speaking? Mouth (neat): I don’t believe the rum’s really brought much to the conversation, and overall this feels rather brutal at cask strength. Huge brine and a splash of cologne—it surely can’t stay that way, fancy a wager? With water: there we are, we’ve landed back on the malt’s DNA, sea water, seaweed, pepper, all carried on a fairly oily base. Finish: long, with a nice peppery bitterness, while the ashes firmly take over the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely wee creature, with a rum influence that’s probably rather incidental.
SGP:457 - 87 points. |
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Torabhaig 7 yo 2018/2025 (56.7%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill bourbon, cask #1160, 241 bottles)
I always think it’s excellent news when respected independents choose your malt—and vice versa. You know what I mean. I do think the more insular brands (love you all) tend to get it wrong, sooner or later. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is fresher, more floral (dandelion) and fruitier (apple) than the official bottlings, at least at first nosing. Possibly more elegant too… Hints of beeswax, which is always splendid news. With water: we’re back to the source—peat, smoke, a working kiln, virgin wool… Mouth (neat): clean cut lemon and ashes, absolutely spot on. The barley comes through more clearly too. With water: a burst of lime and sea water, just what we’d been waiting for. Slight mercurochrome. Finish: long and as sharp as a blade. Comments: lovely wee creature, that’s all I’ve got to say.
SGP:457 - 87 points. |
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Torabhaig 7 yo 2018/2025 (60.4%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, Samhain Series, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #1137, 215 bottles)
This should be close to the previous one. By the way, I was just thinking recently that, given how often we taste coastal Scottish malts, how is it we’re still not speaking Gaelic? Anyway, Samhain would apparently mean ‘the first day of November, celebrated by the ancient Celts as a festival marking the beginning of winter.’ And there we are, running late again… Oh, and the name of this bottle is ‘The Quiraing, Playground of The Giants’. One can only bow in respect. Colour: straw. Nose: very close to the previous one, but a tad rounder, a little oilier, and just a touch softer. With water: apple and pear juice coming to the fore, in balance with the brine, but it remains quite close. Mouth (neat): virtually the same whisky on the palate, which of course is splendid news. Very nicely incisive, with heightened salinity, ashes, lemon… With water: sea water! Finish: very long, salty and full of green pepper. It gains surprising vigour. Comments: I slightly, very slightly prefer this version to the previous one, but not enough to alter the score. No, we’ll never do half-points, let alone decimals.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
We’re eagerly awaiting the first 10-year-old Torabhaig, so we can compare it to one of our favourite ‘core’ malts, the most serene majesty (what?) Talisker 10! |
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January 26, 2026 |
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Four Glen Elgin and a hint of wood
We believe that Glen Elgin should retain its place among the great historic malts, rather than sinking to the depths of the latest loch. In our view and perhaps in an ideal world, it's the best malts that should rise to the top — and that has absolutely nothing to do with marketing budgets or tequila finishes. And let’s not even mention the ubiquitous mizunara. Come on then, let’s have a few Glen Elgin... |
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Glen Elgin 16 yo 2009/2024 (56.1%, The Whisky Blues, STR barrel, cask #801780, 236 bottles)
An STR barrel, which suits us nicely—we imagine it’s simply what one would have called, just five years ago, a ‘rejuvenated barrel’. Colour: straw. Nose: this fatness on ripe apples, barley and muesli. Very Glen Elgin (and very complementary to Lagavulin, but let’s move on, although where is Lagavulin, by the way?…) With water: I swear you can smell the old White Horse. Truly, I swear. Mouth (neat): the perfection of a ‘central’ malt, thick and fat, but all on oils and orchard fruits. With water: damp soils, stewed apples and pears, grapeseed oil. It’s not here to amuse, but that’s probably not the goal anyway. Finish: long, even more bitter. Comments: we’re absolutely fond of this extremely austere style, but to be honest, it’s still rather niche. Still, we kind of adore it…
SGP:361 - 83 points. |
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Glen Elgin 29 yo 1995/2025 (44.6%, The Whisky Blues, refill hogshead, cask #3256, 254 bottles) 
Do you believe in premonitions? We certainly do… Colour: straw. Nose: this is an old malt, marked by the wrinkles of time—old apples, damp chalk, beeswax, dusty books, vintage polish... In short, on the nose it rather bids us farewell, but of course it’s the palate that matters most… Mouth: an unsuspected vigour on the palate, even though age does show, via slightly overripe apples and gently tired spices. Or faded herbal teas. Or old, lightly salted broths. Finish: fairly short, a touch drying, though honey and pollen kindly come to the rescue. Comments: not an easy old malt, that much is certain. It likely calls for a little intellectual effort, which isn’t always in abundant supply at WF HQ, ha. Still, it’s really very good—and besides, 1995 was the year of ‘Confide in Me’ by Kylie Minogue! No, forget the Cranberries…
SGP:361 - 82 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2012/2025 (56%, Watashi Whisky & Le Sens, 1st fill Sauternes barrique, cask #806484)
First fill Sauternes can be a tad unsettling, not just because of the sulphur these casks tend to harbour once emptied (coz of the way they quickly go off due to all that sugar if you don’t ‘treat’ them), but one never knows—it can also work wonders. As ever, the truth lies in the glass… Colour: gold. Nose: well, this one does work, with apricot liqueur, mirabelle eau-de-vie, vanilla sponge, orange blossom and candle wax. It all holds together rather nicely. With water: becomes very much about assorted herbal teas. Mouth (neat): Sauternes can work, and here’s yet another example, not unlike the early Glenmorangies of old. That said, the wood is quite vocal here, very ‘green’, peppery, almost as if it came from fresh French oak. With water: a faint touch of menthol, that’ll be the oak. Finish: it fades while becoming ever drier and more bitter. The mirabelle and muscat do bring a little cheer to the aftertaste. Comments: we really do quite like it, but it’s probably not the easiest bottle out there, the cask influence being rather assertive.
SGP:461 - 81 points. |
Last chance, dear Glen Elgin… By the way, we haven’t seen many official bottlings. I mean, since around 2010. |
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Glen Elgin 17 yo 2007/2025 (57.5%, Single Cask Nation, double maturation in oloroso hogshead, cask #173287, 230 bottles)
Colour: full gold. Nose: here come the roasted peanuts, charred wood, malt and walnut liqueur. This is much more classic than the previous ones, and we’re rather delighted by that. With water: quality grey pepper and a few old papers. We do love the scent of old papers. Mouth (neat): almost an onslaught of spices and citrus—green pepper, zest, bitter orange and clove. Classic and modern at the same time, so that’s spot on. With water: it improves further still, on orange, coriander and shochu. White pepper and yellow curry in the aftertaste, the cask clearly having been rather active. Finish: long, more peppery, spicier still. Comments: super stuff, just very oak-driven, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
SGP:461 - 83 points. |
Right, we'll leave it there, and hope to find some Glen Elgin in its purest form over the coming months. |
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January 25, 2026 |
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The Rum Sessions,
Topping up with a bit more sugarcane spirit |
The days stretch out slowly, as if still reluctant to let go of winter. The cold lingers, biting and familiar, greeting our flushed cheeks each morning. And yet, now and then, the sky shows a touch of mercy: a few rays of sunshine, rare and precious, break through the grey and gently brush our faces. They warm the body as much as the spirit, casting a soft, almost hopeful light, and bringing with them that priceless dose of vitamin D that stirs something long dormant. With this new brightness comes a hazy, comforting, almost tropical yearning: the urge to travel without moving, to summon far-off places in a few glasses of rum.
I know, I know, what a pitiful and utterly pointless introduction. My bad, we won’t do that again… |
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Depaz ‘VSOP’ (45%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2025)
The core range Depaz expressions are generally very much to our liking and the extra 5% bottling strength, compared to other brands, works very well indeed and avoids the slightly limp character some others can display. Except the pot still ones, which sometimes don’t need that boost… These days, Depaz belongs to La Martiniquaise, alongside Saint James, J.Bally and Dillon. In short, some very respectable houses… Colour: gold. Nose: a touch of glue and varnish to start with, always a good sign for me, then we dive into ultra-ripe tropical fruits and sweet spices, bringing to mind a banana and cinnamon salad. It’s very classic, it’s very pretty. Mouth: we’re back with the glue, now joined by liquorice, then quite a hefty dose of rock sugar and caramel, the latter quickly taking the upper hand, supported by sugarcane, fermented fruits and a little pine resin. It works very well. Finish: long, on varnish and liquid caramel, the kind that’s sold already runny to home bakers for drizzling over cakes or flans. Comments: I find it superior to a version that preceded this one by about ten years.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Dominican Republic 17 yo 2018/2025 (60.8%, La Maison du Whisky, Flag Series, Collection Itinéraires, Madeira cask, cask #DR08MD01, 225 bottles)
We’ve always dreamt of finding one or several rums from the Dominican Republic that weren’t just pure ethanol from monstrous multi-column stills, later aromatised with some sort of who-knows-what. Well, we know the story… I must confess, Bristol had sourced some truly excellent ones in the past, so hopes are high here… Colour: very dark amber. Nose: instantly brings to mind some of the better Cubans, such as certain Santiago bottlings one can enjoy locally. Perfect toffee and roasted nuts, hints of cedarwood and cinnamon rolls, but also quite a lot of alcohol. With water: a family-sized pack of honey and molasses-coated roasted peanuts. A faint earthy edge too, which is most pleasant. Mouth (neat): very probably my favourite DomRep to date. Granted, it’s a wee bit sweet, but the woodiness delivers a welcome bite, and the sheer abundance of roasted or even burnt oily nuts works a treat. Also a few drops of pineapple liqueur. With water: good news, the water doesn’t make it feel thin, even if the structure itself reveals a certain lightness. Again those lovely varnishy notes and super-ripe fruits—mango, banana—with a whiff of acetone… Finish: of medium length, more on molasses. Comments: probably from AFD (Alcoholes Finos Dominicanos). No sugar added here, or at least nothing detectable.
SGP:531 - 85 points. |
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Bellevue 2016/2025 (64.3%, Bedford Park, Marie-Galante, bourbon barrel, cask #417, 236 bottles)
Marie-Galante! Let me remind you that administratively it’s part of Guadeloupe. And in terms of flavour, Bellevue sits among the best distilleries in the world, across all categories. Colour: white wine. Nose: chiuso, fermé, closed, geschlossen, cerrado, fèmé. Well, almost, and that’s down to the high strength. Only two remedies exist—either wait three hours or add water. We’ll go for the latter. With water: it remains surprisingly light in structure, you’d think it was a traditional rum rather than an agricole. But it’s very pretty, elegant, now distinctly more vanilla-led. Mouth (neat): this really is a bridge between the French Caribbean and Jamaica, in terms of profile. Salty but close to the cane, tarry, varnished, yet also soft and almost amiable. But once again, nearly 65% vol. So… With water: the effect of water on the nose doesn’t quite carry over to the palate as strongly, there’s still a trace of funk, some esters, very ripe fruit, and even a drop of acetone. Finish: thin, long, again with that ‘cross’ character. A touch of lemon or limoncello, sugarcane syrup. Comments: a Guadeloupean that still feels a bit mysterious to an eternal layman like me.
SGP:541 - 84 points. |
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Réunion 2019/2025 (67.7%, Bedford Park, bourbon barrel, cask #42, 255 bottles) 
Have you seen the strength? That’s pure provocation! And to think our lawyer remains unreachable—they claim he’s sorting out international tariff issues, but I know full well he’s actually out on the golf course… Right, in theory this should be Savanna, let’s see if it’s grand arôme… Colour: white wine. Nose: splendid. Wood glue, curry, near-rotten bananas, fromage blanc, puncture repair glue, eucalyptus, paraffin, aged Gouda, and linden tisane. What an improbable mix, and what a beauty! With water: same notes, just rearranged in a different order. Mouth (neat): unbelievably medicinal, fermentary and spicy. It’s as if someone had added loads of pepper and orange peel to cough syrup, along with a few drops of wild strawberry liqueur. Glorious madness. With water: let’s say coriander seed up front, then an obvious gin-like character, followed by peppers and chillies, all wrapped in a tropical honey of great charm. Finish: extremely long—which is useful if you’re still waiting for your lawyer to call you back. A saline touch right at the very end. Comments: I’m completely in love with this improbably wonderful rum that’s almost certainly rather a little ‘bacterial’. See what I mean.
SGP:563 - 90 points |
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TDL 22 yo 2003/2025 (57.5%, The Antelope, Trinidad, refill barrel, cask #R002, 220 bottles)
Ten years in the tropics, the rest on the continent—though what exactly ‘the continent’ means these days is anyone’s guess. Right then, let’s see if this is an exotic fruit bomb or a jerrycan of petrol… I do hope the NSA isn’t reading this… Colour: gold. Nose: definitely a fruit bomb, though the hydrocarbons are lurking in the shadows. Think old Redbreast or Bushmills, with 5% 1970s Ardbeg chucked in for good measure. You get the picture… With water: it all integrates further, absolutely splendid. TDL Major. Mouth (neat): an incredible parade of pink bananas, mango, papaya, fresh rubber, liquorice and olive oil. With water: not even worth continuing, it’s that good. Finish: long, saltier and more peppery now, with more olives and salmiak, yet the super-ripe fruits still hold the fort. Comments: there's an almost slightly aggressive streak to this, which seems to be all the rage these days, globally speaking. Only joking—it’s splendid.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
I think we’ll finish with a couple of Jamaicans—perhaps some Monymusk?
Yes, I know, there’s “Musk” in Monymusk, but please, let’s not dwell on that… Oh and, you’re right, also ‘Mony’. But Monymusk is no Don Tesla, is it. |
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Monymusk 27 yo 1998/2025 ‘MMW’ (60.1%, Thompson Bros., Jamaica, 174 bottles)
MMW—I believe we’re looking at around 300 g esters/HLPA here. Just a reminder that, like ppm peat, none of that behaves linearly once it’s in your glass. I should also add that the price of this bottle is about the same as a cold calzone and a lukewarm pint somewhere around Covent Garden, and you don’t even need to leave a tip. Madness. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s the brisk Atlantic freshness that strikes first, the elegance of the whole, seaweed, little green olives, small lemons, oysters, and freshly bought pullovers straight from The House of Bruar… It’s a bit like what Caol Ila is to Ardbeg (compared to Hampden, if you see what I mean). With water: not the slightest change, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. Mouth (neat): precise to the millimetre, on mentholated liquorice and shellfish, with tar and rubber added in manageable quantities. With water: the salinity comes to the fore, somewhere between seawater and brine. Finish: there are ‘almost’ a few anchovies. Comments: if you enjoy very saline spirits as much as I do, this one’s for you (too). Never mind the calzone and pint in central London.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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Monymusk 24 yo 2000/2024 (62%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, cask#13908, 148 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s the very high strength that takes charge here, with notes of seawater and lime hovering in the background while ethanol keeps a firm grip on the reins. No worries… With water: even with plenty of dilution, we’re still firmly in that chemical, rubbery territory… Mouth (neat): ultra-powerful, it gives you three slaps and leaves you flat on the mat. Seriously, it’s extremely full-on, you get the impression you’re sipping jet fuel for an F-35 (or Gripen, or Rafale, or Eurofighter etc.) With water: ah, now it’s a little more civilised, though it still feels like you’re north of a kilo of esters/HLPA, which I didn’t think even existed at Clarendon/Monymusk, right? Finish: a bit burning, very long, more acidic, more vinegary. In short, very ‘pickled’. Comments: this one’s a brute, really, and demands a fair bit of resistance. Pretty surprising.
SGP:364 - 85 points.
PS: Actually, I’d already tasted this little number in very different circumstances — after a blend of rums from Liberia and Thailand — and it had really stood out a lot more than it did after the brilliant Monymusk from the Thompsons. Which just goes to show how important line-ups and comparisons are, something we tend to do more often with whiskies. I'm afraid we keep treating rums a bit like tourists, ha. |
Best to leave it there… but stay tuned. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
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January 24, 2026 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Two Celebratory Highland Park
Why celebratory? Well, because it has been a pretty hectic but overall very good week here at WF Scotland HQ (we're moving house!). In such circumstances, you tend to feel motivated to reach for the good stuff. Stuff such as old Highland Park! We have two, but I think it would be remiss not to find time for a wee aperitif... |
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Highland Park 8 yo (70 proof, Gordon & MacPhail, dark vatting, -/+ 1978) 
The 100 proof versions justifiably carry mighty reputations, but these slightly more 'under the radar' 70 proof versions could also be superb in my experience... Colour: light amber. Nose: straight away we're in classical HP territory. Soft, dry peat, mushroom powder, walnuts, earthy potting shed, clay, dried out herbs, verbena, some old funny cocktail bitters. Add to all that wet leaves and unlit cigars! It's just so very complete, humble and pleasing! Mouth: it even works well at only 40%, the weight of the distillate is such that you still get body, the peat comes through with more drying, peppery characteristics, black tea, dried mint, treacle with sea salt, miso, Scotch broth and fir wood full of resins. Simply but again the feeling of a cohesive, fully formed and rather beautiful profile is impossible to escape. Finish: good length, resins and heather honey with very delicate peat going into the aftertaste. Comments: one word: deadly! SGP: 563 - 90 points. |
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Highland Park 1971/1985 (56%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 4.4)
A bottle I opened last September to mark my 40th birthday. Like me, it was also 'bottled' in Edinburgh in July 1985! Colour: white wine. Nose: it would be hard to be further away from the 8yo without being made at a different distillery (what?). This is all wet rocks, plaster, lemon rind, sheep wool, wonderful mineral notes all jangling together, beach sand, driftwood, crushed seashells, coastal flowers... one of those whiskies that compels me to write the word 'evocative'. With time it gets even more focused on these lemony aromas, preserved lemon, lemon tea etc. With water: pure seawater, dried seaweed, tiny briny notes, more flinty minerals and crushed shells. An almost brittle sense about it. But overall, totally beautiful. Mouth: amazing purity and at also a breadth of flavours at work, the peat comes through, with smoked sea salt, olive oil, seawater, old cough medicines, tiger balm, more of these oily sheep wool impressions, white miso, dried tarragon, lime. It's a brilliant example of what a masterful distillate Highland Park can be, the way it can juggle and express so many facets simultaneously and with subtlety. With water: thicker, saltier, peatier, just more rugged and grizzly. It's also much fatter and waxier, with more of these wonderful smoked olive oil impressions, more medicines and hints of eucalyptus and mint. Finish: wonderfully long, drying, salty, delicately smoky, bone-dry peat smoke coming through, along with more savoury and coastal beauty. Comments: a modest masterpiece of distillate. A simple 14-year-old, probably refill cask, that is just effortlessly elegant, expressive, complex and brilliant. I'll leave the jokes about which of us has lasted best up to you. SGP: 453 - 93 points. |
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Highland Park NAS 'Saint Magnus' (100 proof, OB, early 1970s)
These are very hard to find nowadays, there also licensed versions by G&M with this livery as well. Colour: gold. Nose: it's funny that it would sit somewhere between the 8yo and the 1971, it's clearly from an earlier production era with this overall much fatter, greasier and slightly dirtier profile, but it's also much more powerful, peatier, earther, more mechanical and full of things like honey roast parsnip, tar, bone marrow, camphor, paraffin, beeswax and cough syrup. No less impressive! With water: suet, squid ink, peat smoke in a kiln, coal scuttles and cow sheds! Mad stuff! Mouth: amazing power, concentration and intensity. The peat is really dialled way up here, massive, thick, drying, herbaceous and rooty in the way that only old HP seems to be able to deliver. All manner of putty, miso, dried herbs, medicinal herbs and roots, umami broths, camphor, seawater, engine oil. The list could really go on and on. With water: the peat softens slightly, we're left with glowing embers, hints of seawater, anthracite, putty, miso, mushroom stock, mineral oil and really fat notes of wax, camphor, resins and boot polish. Finish: very long, elegantly peaty, drying, salty, mineral and with an oily impression. Comments: hard not to get carried away with such bottlings, the peat profile and flavour is utterly distinctive and seemingly indigenous to these very old school Orcadian malt whiskies. I had it neck and neck with the 1971, but the palate and the peat really elevated it that wee bit higher. SGP: 465 - 94 points. |
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January 23, 2026 |
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A session with no interest or meaning whatsoever — just three old Glenfiddich.
It’s true that, little by little, through increasingly excessive branding, Glenfiddich is drifting away from the small world of the “learned” and becoming more and more of a “quasi-blend”. Still, we continue to hold the brand in the highest regard and do our utmost to keep featuring it on these miserable pages as often as possible. Even if, to be honest, we now have to resort to rather unorthodox tactics to do so, given that the current production is, let’s admit it, far from inspiring. But we solemnly take the bet that Glenfiddich can still move us… |
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‘Nature created water; Scotland did the rest.’ French ad, circa 2000. If you’ve made any sense of it, please let us know. |
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Glenfiddich 15 yo ‘Solera Reserve’ (40%, OB, pure single malt, +/-2002) 
We’ve tried this wee baby several times before but never quite felt inspired enough to pen a full set of notes. The time has come, especially as it’s one of those famed ‘pure single malts’, no less… Colour: gold. Nose: ah yes, one is reminded of dead leaves, peonies, potpourri, ripe apples and the faintest whiff of damp cardboard. I’m not convinced this style is bound to survive, anywhere in Scotland really. Mouth: charming malt, though the structure is extremely light and a tad drying. Over-brewed tea, bitter chocolate, cardboard again, old walnuts… Finish: very dry indeed. Cold black tea and more of that bitter chocolate. Comments: perhaps a style somewhat out of fashion, or maybe this bottle has simply seen better days? Time passes, relentlessly… (you alright, S.?)
SGP:351 - 74 points |
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Glenfiddich 8 yo (43%, OB, ‘Straight Malt’, Gancia, Italy, +/-1970) 
We’ve already tasted a few of these well-known 8-year-olds, usually with rather pleasant results, but here comes another bottle. Any excuse will do, won’t it. Colour: white wine. This one hails from the days when ‘pale meant light’, and ‘light meant better’. Perhaps that trend is making a comeback… Nose: hay and wax paper, a touch of beer, old apples, and frankly, not much else. Mouth: a little better than on the nose but there’s still that taste of light exposure, stale herbal teas, a faint touch of old varnish… Frankly, we’re publishing this for glory and posterity’s sake, though this bottle has clearly seen brighter days. Caution at auction: this type of risk is becoming increasingly common, and you probably need to buy two bottles of this ilk (malt, 1960s or 1970s, 40–43%) just to find a good one. No luck today. Finish: short, drying, not great. Comments: adios, so long, see you in paradise.
SGP:251 - 45 points. |
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Glenfiddich 1979/1993 (46%, Moon Import, The Sails in the Wind)
Independents have seldom fared well with Glenfiddich—some were epic (1956 Intertrade!) but others quite middling (1979 Samaroli). Yet I believe this is the first time we’ve dipped our lips into this rare Moon Import with its majestically magnificent label… Colour: straw. Nose: slightly fragile, with notes of damp cardboard and hay, but also a fairly high-grade farmhouse cider. It’s a little hesitant, the apples are nice, but we’re nowhere near Port Ellen or Brora. Nor Mortlach or Balvenie, if we’re talking ‘Dufftown’. As usual, it’s the palate that will speak the truth… Mouth: no, not much charm here I’m afraid—cardboard, overripe apples of the blettest variety, and little else, sorry. Finish: a touch better, with a bit of lemon perking things up, but it all ends on flat Heineken. Heineken, indeed. Comments: immense respect to Moon Import, so let’s remain measured, but this has probably become more of a display bottle than something for your glass.
SGP:351 - 70 points. |
No luck today, better luck next time, I hope. Forza Glenfiddich! |
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January 22, 2026 |
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A quintet of independent Mortlachs |
Mortlach's stillhouse, with the spirit still No.1, known as Wee Witchie, at the far left. (Robert Karlsson, Malt Maniacs) |
Some say a whisky enthusiast is getting on a bit when they can no longer clearly remember Mortlach’s distillation system—or even the exact role of the Wee Witchie. Well, I’m pleased to report that this is absolutely not the case for us, as we can still recall with great precision that the whole setup is, quite simply… byzantine. So, to mark the occasion properly, let’s have another go at a few Mortlachs—arranged in a somewhat… byzantine fashion. |
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Mortlach 10 yo 2014/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #15’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill PX hogshead finish)
‘From Pitlochry to the World’, it says. And indeed, at times it feels like the entire world converges on Pitlochry, at least during tourist season. Colour: amber. Nose: shoe polish, raisins, dark chocolate and beef jerky (teriyaki flavour) in perfect synchronicity. In short, it’s all tight and tidy. With water: notes of artichoke and roasted aubergine, with that sulphury, rubbery and oily side of the distillate still very much in place, the meaty aspect too, though softly handled. Mouth (neat): firm and rich, with nuances reminiscent of the beloved Flora & Fauna, some gently smoky chocolate, smoky tea too, touches of violet sweets, and Zan liquorice... It’s really very distinctive, very Mortlach, very lovely. With water: unnecessary. Finish: artichoke in honey (ideas, ideas). Comments: I absolutely adore this ultra-classic little Mortlach in the end.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 19 yo 2005/2024 (52%, Decadent Drams, bourbon barrel, 181 bottles)
And here we are, the wee witchie shows up on the label again (that’s J., isn’t it?) Mind you, this is quite an unusual ex-bourbon version, so let’s see whether we’ll find all the sulphur of the distillate... Colour: straw. Nose: you bet! Yes, sulphur, grapeseed oil, basalt, chalk, fatty ham, shortbread, dandelion syrup… It’s lovely! If we were any closer to the distillate, we’d be pot stills ourselves. You see what I mean? With water: glorious fatness, all in elegance. Faux leather, shoe polish, enamel paint. Mouth (neat): oh the class! Lemon, oils, chervil, beeswax, mandarin… With water: mandarin takes over, with a faint coastal breeze alongside. Finish: rather long, saltier, very elegant, oily, waxy… Comments: pure distillery expression, bravo, I love it. I honestly believe we should each own one bottle from every distillery that expresses, with the greatest possible precision, the true profile of its distillate. Indeed. Magnificent Mortlach.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Mortlach 17 yo 2007/2025 (56.9%, Signatory Vintage, Symington’s Choice, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt finish, cask #202, 680 bottles)
Indeed, we do adore the ex-bourbon versions, but one mustn’t forget that Mortlach and a great sherry share a love affair, sometimes even in the form of a humble finish like this one... Colour: amber. Nose: we’re in a cabinetmaker’s workshop here, with all sorts of sawn wood, but also in a Mediterranean spice shop, with dates, figs, oils and unidentifiable unguents, not to mention a 25-kilo sack of Corinthian raisins. With water: drier now, a little more resinous. Thuja wood. Mouth (neat): oranges studded with cloves and pink pepper, followed by Agen prunes, roasted pistachios and pipe tobacco. More or less. With water: the prunes take the lead and steer us towards the world of rustic, old-family Armagnacs. Finish: long, a touch of leather, cardamom, pepper, bitter chocolate… Comments: excellent. To me, it’s in the same family as the Small Batch, though rather a little different.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 18 yo 1975 ‘Auchindoun’ (61.3%, The Whisky Connoisseur, cask #6249, +/-1992)
Here we meet again with Arthur J A Bell and his improbably named malts, often of superb quality. Apparently, Auchindoun also features in World of Warcraft. Living the dream, aren’t we? … Joking aside, it’s also the name of a 15th-century castle whose ruins lie just outside Dufftown. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: the connection with the 2005 from Decadent etc. is striking, despite the thirty-year gap. Same mineral and oily profile, same citrus, same almost animalic fat, same sulphur from the distillate, same citrus peels, superb. Nothing to do with burnt sulphur from wine casks (wicks or candles and such). With water: a general retreat into waxes and citrus essential oils. Mouth (neat): fabulous citrus wrapped in waxes, oils and spices. One almost imagines a dish from the early Renaissance. But careful now, even after thirty years, 61.3% packs a punch. With water: a gentler wave rolls in, fruitier, more honeyed, with mirabelle jam leading the charge. Finish: superb, long, very well balanced between waxes and citrus peels. Comments: magnificent. I hesitated for a long time between WF 92.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
What superb Mortlachs! Mind you, the next one shouldn’t be half bad either… |
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Mortlach 59 yo 1965/2024 (44.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Dram Takers, Book of Kells label, refill American hogshead, 63 bottles)
G&M are indeed great Mortlach specialists. One fondly remembers those pre-war 50yos you could once find in miniature form for not very much in Scottish tourist shops, nestled between the Celtic jewellery and tartan scarves. Don’t bother looking, that was at least 25 years ago. Colour: gold. Nose: waxes, beehives, pollen, rapeseed oil, unfiltered Camels. We shall refrain from elaborating on that last one, though it’s vividly present for me – might land us in court one day, which seems likely enough given the visible success of the hygienist lobbies and Facebook’s current moves. Ha. Mouth: marvellous arrival of a resinous oak, strongly marked by pu-ehr style tea, breaking down into thuja, fir, spruce and cedar. The distillate’s oils hold it all together, and at no point does it feel ‘too’ woody. Fruit skins, apple, banana, grape stalk, hashish oil. Finish: long, with all those rather fruity resins now taking over. Lots of oak, but it never becomes overly oaky – it’s true sorcery. The real miracle comes in the aftertaste, with sublime pink peppers (Timut and the like) suddenly asserting themselves, almost as if to flick the comet’s tail back up, if you see what I mean... Comments: this single old Mortlach could easily warrant its own Netflix series – eight seasons minimum, twelve episodes per season. What’s Andie MacDowell up to these days?
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
Last minute—we nearly forgot this fine little gem… |
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Mortlach 21 yo 2003/2025 (58.3%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Exchange, Bourbon Cask series, cask #800225, 186 bottles)
These simple labels are rather lovely. I’ll just add that we’re getting a bit of a hunch here… Colour: chardonnay. Nose: a gentle Mortlach but full of honey and beeswax, quince, mirabelle plums, dandelion, Arabic gum… Not overly meaty or sulphury at this stage, but then not all Mortlachs are, in our modest experience. With water: resins and sap, apples and prunes. Nothing extravagant, but it works. Mouth (neat): good heavens, what a distillate! Tremendous presence, firm yet rounded, lemon mint, loads of white pepper, candied zest, citronella… Still no meatiness. With water: indeed, citrus takes the lead here, more lemony than orangey, but the whole remains rich and oily. Finish: very long, quite bright, yet fat, yet bright, yet fat… and so on. Comments: Mortlach remains the most full-bodied malt in Dufftown, even in its ‘lighter’ versions. So to speak. This baby's doing very well, especially after the superstars we've just enjoyed.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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January 21, 2026 |
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Tasting six rather unpredictable American whiskies and bourbons |
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January 20, 2026 |
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A quartet of magnificent Pulteneys (three recent and one old)
According to our modest experience and, ultimately, our conclusion, Pulteney—despite being one of the ‘kings of reflux’—turns out to offer a rather delicate malt despite its coastal character, which can make it somewhat fragile when exposed to casks that are too active or heavily wine-influenced (or flavoured with something else). But when that’s not the case, it can in some respects resemble its southern neighbour—you know, the distillery that starts with a C and ends with an H. At times, it even becomes sumptuous, whether in very young expressions or extremely old ones, like the official 38-year-old released for China last year. So then, let’s see what we have today... |
(Old Pulteney) |
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Pulteney 17 yo 2008/2025 (49.8%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Maker’s Mark finish, cask #Z082, 295 bottles)
Could a finishing in a first fill bourbon barrel help a Scotch whisky dodge (a small) part of those American import tariffs? You’ll probably tell me I’m dreaming, or even raving mad… Colour: apricot, which is rather unusual. Nose: the nose is just as unusual, with a surprisingly vinous character for an ex-bourbon cask. Something of a blend of Sauternes, late-harvest gewurztraminer, honey and apricot liqueur indeed. Definitely apricots... Still, the whole is elegant, very ripe, with even hints of mashed banana and touches of mango peeking through later on. So many riddles! Mouth: swift about-turn back to bourbon territory, and all things coastal and saline, plus lightly salted orange drizzled with a drop of olive oil. The whole remains rather surprising. Finish: rather long, gradually shifting from salted fruits to peppermint tea, then to bitter orange. Comments: what an unusual Pulteney! I’m very fond of it, but blind, it would surely lead you astray.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Pulteney 23 yo 2002/2025 (57.2%, Decadent Drams, refill barrel, 176 bottles) 
Lovely label, looks a bit like… hang on, Greenland? Is that meant to be some sort of statement? Colour: gold. Nose: a nose that confirms the 2008 was indeed ‘different’, here we’re back on a clean, almost surgical line, with vanilla pod and whiffs of sea air, flint, and crushed oyster shells. Hard to imagine anything more ‘terroir’, if you see what I mean. With water: castor oil and metal polish begin to show. Mouth (neat): even cleaner, a mix of bread dough, lemon juice, sea water and green pepper. This could easily replace Tabasco on a platter of forty-eight oysters. Or six. With water: I don’t think there’s much to add, perhaps just a drop of pepper liqueur and maybe a faint touch of peat smoke. Finish: long, more bitter, perhaps simpler. Comments: a true Pulteney au naturel. Adorable and a little more full-bodied than expected after all.
SGP:452 - 89 points. |
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Pulteney 25 yo 2000/2025 (53.9%, Casky’s Finest Selection and The Antelope, refill barrel, cask #100239)
Careful now, we know these small batches from 2000 can be stratospheric... Colour: gold. Nose: mango, sea water, chalk, fresh paint and clams. That’s it, comrade. With water: add a few touches of shiitake. Mouth (neat): everything is spot on here, the edge, the salinity, the earthiness, the citrus, the medicinal aspects (eucalyptus, camphor), and of course the shellfish, oysters leading the charge. I don’t think one can do much better in Wick. With water: pepper joins in, the rest stands firm. Finish: long, beautifully bitter. Comments: I offer my formal apologies to all concerned parties for the brevity of this tasting note. Pulteney in hi-def.
SGP:452 - 92 points. |
Let’s finish with a former glory… |
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Old Pulteney 1970/1988 (56%, Sestante, 75cl)
I don’t believe the distillation regime at Pulteney has changed all that much since 1970. In any case, last time I was in Wick, the whole charming little town looked as if it had been frozen in 1970, and if memory serves, they were playing Slade on the jukebox. Or was it Nazareth? Anyway, these 1970s are almost certainly G&M stock. Colour: straw. Nose: blimey, it chats with the 2000 like two old army mates, their profiles remarkably close, though this 1970 seems a little fatter and more oily (mineral oil). Perhaps a purifier on/off affair, like at Ardbeg. Touches of mutton suet and linseed oil. With water: limestone, chalk, marl and rain-soaked clay. Mouth (neat): magnificent in its fat, salty, very mineral side, with a bit more citrus this time, one can’t help but think of our friends the limoncellos. With water: a few ultra-ripe bergamots and plums add a touch of sweetness to this marvellous ensemble. Finish: long, on precisely the same notes, the whole simply lingers on… There is just, as is often the case, a little more pepper on the aftertaste, along with a faint fizzy note (ginger tonic). Comments: it would be rather vulgar to try to rank this against the 2000.
SGP:551 - 92 points. |
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January 19, 2026 |
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Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 4 and last |
Because it’s high time to put an end to this Caol Ila onslaught. After forty different expressions, we’ll call it a day—for now.
(Caol Ila
/Diageo) |
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Caol Ila 16 yo 1982/1998 (43%, Signatory, cask #1770-71, 896 bottles)
A Caol Ila we had already tasted before 2002 (WF 89) but for which we hadn’t yet written up any proper tasting notes, though Rome wasn’t built in a day, was it. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: it’s fresh, very close to seawater, tight as a thong and packed with charcoal. Well-worn, naturally. Perfect, and even the low strength seems well suited. These are splendid vintages. Mouth: yes, truly perfect, very dry, stuffed with ashes like the ashtray of a cigar club at four in the morning, also brimming with oysters, though there’s little fruit, not even a touch of lemon. Finish: long, even more saline now, and by this point rather medicinal. Iodine, toothpaste, mercurochrome. Comments: it’s practically charcoal eau-de-vie. I don’t believe I’ll even bother changing my score from twenty-five years ago.
SGP:267 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2015/2025 (57.1%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, 100 proof, 1stfill oloroso sherry finish, casks #302640-41-42-43, 1055 bottles)
Colour: full gold. Nose: when you see peat and first fill sherry, you’re really only looking for one thing, balance. Let’s see… Well, it’s a success, nicely camphory with touches of wasabi, then candied oranges and the expected green walnut. It works like sheet music (Verdi’s, no less!) With water: peaty nocino! È una bomba! Mouth (neat): impressively compact, saline and very smoky. The sherry only punctuates it all without ever trying to take over, even if there’s a lovely bit of salted dark chocolate. With water: pepper and leather come crashing in, adding tension without upsetting the balance… slightly brutal now, though. Finish: very long, mustardy, peppery and crammed with walnuts. Comments: for a 10-year-old, I’m smitten.
SGP:467 - 88 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2010/2025 (56%, C. Dully Selection, bourbon hogshead, cask #17752, 266 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: the creamy, citrusy softness of a good bourbon hogshead, with smoked almonds, lemon curd, fresh seaweed and cider apples. I nearly forgot the obligatory oysters. Impeccable. With water: the oils emerge—almond, sunflower, hazelnut… Mouth (neat): the expected sharpness, the expected freshness, all the expected maritime elements, plus that slightly green ash that coats the whole. Lemon zest. With water: it stays perfectly defined, with flawless salinity and a fair dose of green pepper. Strongly marked yuzu or finger lime adds even more zing to the whole. Finish: long and pure, lime and seawater, with two or three green olives in the aftertaste. Comments: a modern—and more powerful—counterpart to the excellent 1982 with which we began this final session.
SGP:567 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 13 yo 2011/2024 ‘Wunderkammer’ (57.3%, Morisco Spirits, 1st fill oloroso, cask #58211, 307 bottles)
There’s a lovely kind of Wunderkammer in Edinburgh, when climbing the Royal Mile towards the castle, on the right-hand side. But of course, our friends’ cellars are also a kind of Wunderkammers in their own way. Colour: amber orange. Nose: absolutely gorgeous, with aromas leaning towards orange and tobacco, plus oily waxes and a beach bonfire. Magnificent, truly. With water: it doesn’t shift, only showing a little more young walnut. Mouth (neat): lovely lovely lovely lovely. Smoked pepper, very dark chocolate, walnut liqueur, lemon (from Sicily, naturally), very dry white wine (Grillo again) … With water: oh well done! Finish: long, very salty, leather, tobacco, cardamom, pepper, horseradish, mustard… Comments: dry as a cane thrashing, as we say over here, utterly brilliant from start to finish.
SGP:367 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 1978/1992 (64.8%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #53.5)
This is the oldest Caol Ila from the SMWS we've ever tasted—only that rascal Angus sampled the very, very first ones. But 1978, of course, already means the new distillery… Still, beware the strength… Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a different style altogether, leaning towards citrus, grapefruit, but also coconut, Scottish daiquiri, lime… But at these near-lethal strengths, that doesn’t necessarily mean much. With water: it really bursts forth with petrol, fresh tar, new sneakers, Barbour grease… You get the picture. Mouth (neat): it’s gorgeous, but it’s also very powerful. Medicinal citrus and peppers, let’s say, plus bitter paraffins. With water: a little more civilised, but only just. In truth, this brutality is rather magnificent, thanks to how those petroly, tarry, smoky notes unravel into myriad tiny touches of oils, truffle, rubber, lapsang souchong as often found in these whiskies, basil, coriander. Quite. Finish: very long and very salty, as you might imagine. Comments: all those early SMWS bottlings were rather spectacular. Brutal and rough-edged at the time, but after thirty years in bottle, they’ve mellowed a bit and grown more complex, to our great delight (I swear I don’t work and never worked for the honourable SMWS).
SGP:567 - 91 points. |
Since we are among the ancestors… |
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Caol Ila 22 yo 1974/1997 (54.4%, Signatory Vintage, cask #1974/46, 310 bottles)
Also from the new distillery. One can’t stress enough just how much impact those ‘dumpy’ Signatory bottles, in their improbably velvety boxes (even though I’m not sure it was already the velvet-covered boxes in this particular case), had on generations of whisky lovers keen to move beyond the often rather… uninspiring official bottlings. Colour: white wine. Nose: mad elegance, vegetal and petroly oils, top Chardonnay, olives, roasted pistachios… No need to pile on, it’s already sublime. With water: sublimissimo. Virgin wool, chalk, a brand-new scarf from the Islay Woollen Mill, bread dough, crabs from the Sound of Islay, local beer… It’s like standing right there, it’s insane. Mouth (neat): lemon and ashes, power ten, plus new rubber and seawater. No more, no less, and it’s spot on. Well, a few salted bitter almonds too. With water: the smoked and salted bitter almonds take over the fight. Good on them. Finish: long, magnificent, more bitter but also fatter. Comments: well, it was always going to be like this…
SGP:466 - 92 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 1992/2005 (46%, Duncan Taylor, Whisky Galore)
We’d already tasted this wee one some 20 years ago, though not under ideal circumstances. Let’s put that right, shall we… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s charming, on roasted peanuts, fresh mastic, ski wax, tiny pickled lemons, almond milk… This time, the peat is discreet, just oily enough. Linseed oil. Mouth: yes, it’s good, on bitter almonds, seawater, green pepper, dark chocolate, tart apples, liquorice wood, gentian… Finish: fairly long, earthy, rooty, with a style that may feel a tad out of fashion. But we, for one, adore roots—in the literal sense, let’s leave cheap identity politics aside. Very salty aftertaste. Comments: a very lovely bottle, I believe the reduction to 46% followed by twenty years in bottle has done it a world of good.
SGP:467 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 30 yo 1995/2025 (50.9%, The Antelope & Kanpaikai, Dollar Cat #2, refill hogshead, cask #809708, 168 bottles)
Many good things come from these folks… Colour: gold. Nose: this is already a slightly rounded, mellowed, more complex old Caol Ila, yet still showing the distillate’s natural attributes, ashes, waxes, seaweed, faint medicinal touches (bandages), and almond oil, with wee notes of preserved lemon and zest from tiny grapefruits. Or pomelos, if you prefer. With water: more wax, paraffin, lamp oil… Mouth (neat): we’re at that stage where a little softness settles in with age, but absolutely not at the expense of the distillate, which remains very briny and ashy. There are hints of kimchi, pepper, even sake, though I promise you these impressions have nothing to do with the bottle’s geographical origin in the taster’s mind. Proof? There’s also a firm hit of manzanilla, stronger than usual. With water: the pepper takes the lead, hand in hand with salted liquorice. Finish: rather long, almost unchanged save for a slight tingle of chilli and those always surprising little touches of strawberry and mango in the aftertaste, which do sometimes pop up in peated Islay. Comments: a very fine bottle, sometimes old, sometimes young. Perhaps like those cats on the label, the ones with seven (or nine, depending on who you ask) lives.
SGP:466 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 32 yo 1992/2024 (51.8%, Whiskyland, Chapter Five, refill hogshead, 210 bottles)
2024? Once again we’re a little late to the party… Colour: dark straw. Nose: very, very, indeed quite astonishing, almost kicking off with verbena liqueur (Verveine du Velay). Then it moves through a few other herbal and liqueur-like notes (yellow Chartreuse) before settling back into the usual suspects of an old CI—shells, ashes, seaweed, gherkins, toasted sesame oil and even olive oil, which has turned up in several recent drams. It’s really quite perfect so far, let’s say it. With water: almond oil, pistachio oil, olive oil, bitter almonds, candle wax. We like that. Mouth (neat): back comes the olive oil, lemon, ash and smoked fish. It’s razor-sharp, just a touch chalky. With water: magnificently salty and briny, full of peppery ashes and 99% cocoa dark chocolate. In short, the beast holds its ground. Finish: long, fresh, peppery, ashy, always incisive. Comments: it’s no secret that Caol Ila is one of the, if not the peated malt that ages with the most grace, as though it were nearly immune to the passage of time. Here’s yet another piece of evidence.
SGP:466 - 91 points. |
Let’s finish with the oldest of them all; for once, we’re bringing a bit of logic to this smoky, salty chaos that’s gone on far too long… |
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Caol Ila 40 yo 1984/2025 ‘Something in the Water’ (51.3%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist #15, refill hogshead, cask #8484006286, 99 bottles)
A bottle adorned with another splendid piece by Radhika Surana, titled ‘Meandering through Relationships -1’. This certainly takes us far beyond those mahogany-veneered boxes and moulded crystal decanters often wheeled out for malts of this kind of pedigree. Colour: bronze gold. A nail? A patch? Nose: imagine a box of assorted fruit jellies and Turkish delights, some delicately smoked. Quince comes first, then fig, minty marzipan, followed by very floral hay and a few touches of patchouli. This is all infinite refinement and delicacy, and that’s not a polite euphemism to suggest it’s a bit muted—quite the opposite. With water: we dive into vegetal, coastal earth with abandon and delight (really). Mouth (neat): Provençal herbs coated in olive oil, a faint metallic edge that might be a by-product of the colour (inverted synaesthesia in action?) and a rather stunning herbal profile, somewhere between artisanal absinthe (from the Val-de-Travers, naturally) and green Chartreuse this time. Nothing here is quite normal, but it’s all rather marvellous. And brine, naturally. With water: it could almost be an old bottle as much as an old malt; one might even speak of OBE-like flavours after just a few months. We continue to drift along sea herbs. Finish: not very long, but wonderfully herbal, camphory and minty, very much in line with the old liqueurs mentioned above. Comments: a formidable old Caol Ila, marked by time—not a static number, not just a label (remember when ‘age was just a number’ was a thing, pre-crisis?), but time itself indeed, passing. We’ve had some deeply moving old whiskies in recent weeks, haven’t we. Wasn’t it Shakespeare who said only art can defeat time? Not too sure about that, but this bottle and its packaging are certainly magnificent in that regard.
SGP:465 - 91 points. |
Very well, we’ll have more Caol Ila soon—perhaps we’ll even manage to reach a thousand different expressions on this wretched little website before too long. Naturally, it would be the first distillery ever to hit that milestone, but all of this probably makes about as much sense as, to parahprase Lord Blackader, a cucumber with roller skates. |
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January 18, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
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The Rum Sessions,
today a selection of assorted and varied rums |
I think today we'll go from the sweetest to the saltiest of rums. Does that plan work for you? |
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Fortin ‘Guarani’ (40%, OB, Paraguay, +/-2025)
A rum said to be organic, with a finishing of 6 months in maté casks, though we had no idea maté could be housed and matured in oak barrels. Unless, of course, this was merely a means of aromatising this modest little rum afterwards… Anyway, so far the Fortins we've tried had been rather all right, typically scoring between 65 and 75 points on our wee scale. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s soft, a little sweet, not particularly assertive but with hints of ripe banana and indeed black tea, then a faint touch of rubber. The whole isn’t unpleasant. Mouth: alas, there’s a sugary presence that makes the whole thing curiously liqueur-like and dry at the same time. Slightly ‘budget’ orange liqueur and similarly ‘budget’ cane syrup. Finish: short, sweet. Comments: a bit like a light Don Papa, if you see what I mean. I preferred the other Fortins I’ve tasted.
SGP:620 - 50 points. |
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Saint James ‘Nectar du Maître de Chai’ (40%, OB, Martinique, +/-2025) 
Colour: full gold. Nose: oops, this is spiced rum, with a maceration of prunes and vanilla. It’s far from unpleasant on the nose, it’s just not rum. My fault entirely, apologies for the lapse in attention. Mouth: very sweet. Cinnamon liqueur, gingerbread, heavily sweetened and spiced mulled wine. Finish: long, sticky. Comments: take this rough sketch of a score with a generous pinch of salt. Apologies again, we usually love Saint James.
SGP:820 - +/-60 points. |
Let’s quickly taste a proper rum that belongs to the same excellent group, La Martiniquaise… |
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Yellow Snake (40%, Island Signature, Rum Terroirs, Jamaica, +/-2025)
This ‘Rum Terroirs’ series also includes releases from Mauritius, Guatemala and the Dominican Republic. This one’s a blend of rather young Jamaican rums, let’s see if any esters decide to show up… Colour: pale gold. Nose: yes indeed, there are some lovely briny, metallic and tarry touches, and it’s unmistakably Jamaican, lightly so but with precision. Molasses, mentholated honey, cane juice. Mouth: this is really rather enjoyable, dry, a well-composed blend. Lemon, olives, liquorice, all in measured but well-present quantities. Would have had more punch at 45 or 46% vol. Finish: fairly long, dry, spicier. Cinnamon, curry, green walnut, a salty touch, and a wee dab of tapenade. Comments: a lovely Jamaican blend, goes down without trouble, even at room temperature.
SGP:362 - 82 points. |
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Neisson ‘Profil Équilibre Carole Aurore Assemblage Mizunara’ (52.5%, OB, Martinique, agricole, LMDW Itinéraires, 2025)
Half of this assemblage was matured in mizunara oak casks, that ‘very rare’ variety which, curiously enough, seems to be used by virtually every spirits brand on the planet at some point or other, even Chivas. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s true you do pick up a faint mentholy and resinous edge, layered over the usual pure cane, earthy and mineral profile. A lovely touch of lime. With water: essential oils and natural shampoo, we’re not far off a Finnish sauna. Mouth (neat): this is very good, a little unusual and ‘world’, but the combination of pu-ehr tea and pine bud liqueur, mingled with rather saline cane, works a treat. Lovely lime as well. With water: the cane, still saline and quite mineral, takes the lead again, but the pine bud and lime linger on. Finish: fairly long, with no major shifts, except a surprising aftertaste that reminds one of a cross between fino and sake. I swear. Comments: rather experimental, but I quite like it, even if I prefer my Neisson in its natural state, as with all the ‘grands crus’, for that matter.
SGP:371 - 83 points. |
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Foursquare 8 yo ‘Old Bajan Numéro 6’ (59.1%, Les Frères de la Côte, 950 bottles, 2025)
This youngster was aged in bourbon casks in Barbados, then shipped to France aboard a sailing boat, where it was finished in a fine de Meursault cask. In short, another playful assemblage… Colour: full gold. Nose: Foursquare takes charge from the start, and quite right too. Lovely oils (sesame, peanut) and notes of bagasse, biscuits, light honey and beeswax. With water: doesn’t budge an inch. Light linseed oil touches. Mouth (neat): once again, the fine de Bourgogne remains very discreet, letting the rum’s lemons and oranges speak for themselves, alongside that typically oily and metallic edge. Perhaps the faintest hint of kirsch. With water: Foursquare all the way, and one almost gets the impression there’s a healthy proportion of pot still in the mix. Lovely grey pepper. Finish: medium length, with a pepperiness that builds steadily. Comments: Foursquare 1 - Fine de Meursault 0. But of course we love Meursault…
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Providence 3 yo 2022/2025 (52.4%, OB, Port au Prince Distillery, La Maison & Velier, Haiti)
Let’s be honest, we greatly enjoyed the earlier official releases of Providence (2021/2024, WF 86). I find Providence fits nicely somewhere between the very gentle Barbancourts and the wild clairins (which we adore). Colour: pale gold. Nose: we’re very close to pressed cane and bagasse, with some rather striking whiffs of banana with menthol (yes, really), which are quite seductive. With water: humus, patchouli, bidis and a return of the banana, though no menthol this time. Mouth (neat): even better on the palate, the salinity is rather sublime and brings a kind of tension that whisks you straight off to the banks of the Guadalquivir. Lemon, mustard, olives, sugarcane, tequila. It’s a truly singular profile, and that’s precisely what makes it so compelling. With water: it settles and softens slightly, but the profile doesn’t shift an inch. Finish: same again. A nice arrival of liquorice, close to a handcrafted pastis. Wormwood. Comments: I get the impression this is coming along nicely…
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
Let’s move on to the heavy hitters… |
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Clarendon Estate 12 yo (56.8%, Dràm Mor, Jamaica, cask #1814, 307 bottles, 2025)
It’s always a pleasure to see British independents taking an interest in rum, though we’ve already tasted marvels from the likes of Cadenhead and G&M. Ah, that Long Pond 1941! Though we’re not talking about the specialists here, like Bristol Spirits… Colour: full gold. Nose: this isn’t a particularly heavy Clarendon, which allows a lovely finesse to emerge—fig leaf, rubber tree, seaweed, small pink olives and quite simply pink grapefruit and passion fruit. I find it all very pretty, very elegant. With water: retreats slightly towards petrol. Mouth (neat): some funk and citrus, let’s say. The rubber tree note is more pronounced, and there’s a caipirinha-like character that’s great fun. In theory, water will sort out the molecules… With water: indeed, we reach a very fine salinity that plays beautifully with the lemon and a light tarry side. Finish: long, with consistent flavours. Comments: a very fine wee bottle, nicely representative of the high standards at Dràm Mor. And once again, apologies—I really can’t manage the accent on the o in Mor. Blame it on French keyboards.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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New Yarmouth 15 yo 2009/2025 (59.8%, Bedford Park, Jamaica, bourbon, cask #1, 221 bottles)
Cask #1, really! What an honour… Actually, the label reminds me of the first time I listened to ‘Dark Side’, quite a long time ago now. Colour: gold. Nose: boom. Ultra-precision, tar, carbon, wee lemons, sea water. Nothing more, but that’s more than enough. With water: old bicycle inner tube. Mouth (neat): elementally perfect. A mix of lemon juice, diesel fumes, liquorice juice and sea water. That’s it, one could almost call this a nudist distillate. With water: sublime in its tarry and saline purity. Finish: same story. Comments: almost a <DOK, couldn’t be more stripped back. It’s practically constructivist—Malevich and all that, The White Album etc. Not my business, but personally, I’d have gone for a completely white label. Though I agree, that wouldn’t quite resonate online—and on the Web, white kills…
SGP:363 - 90 points. |
We'll finish with a Caroni, alright? |
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Caroni 27 yo 1998/2025 (57.6%, The Colours of Rum for Absolutely Nuts, This Time No Colours, Edition No.2, Trinidad, 91 bottles)
A Hampden finish here—it had to happen eventually, didn’t it? Of course, and the name ‘Absolutely Nuts’ suits us just fine, as one might even glimpse the spirit of the Malt Maniacs here. No limits, ad nauseam. Colour: amber gold. Nose: well, this is rather gentler than expected—it doesn’t rip the nostrils apart or rush straight up the olfactory bulb into the brain. Instead, we’re getting notes of smoked pistachio chocolate, toasted sesame oil and soft, almost childlike liquorice. Though in the background, make no mistake, there is tar, old cloth and pine sap. With water: majestic cedarwood, think Cedros de Luxe. Cigar lovers will get it. Mouth (neat): perfect salinity, with varnish, tar and extremely salty pickles. In fact, it’s not just saline, it’s downright salty. With water: perfection achieved, whatever the path. The wood is still very much present, but it’s been tamed. Still plenty of salt—indeed, pure NaCl. Finish: very long, on brined pickles and homemade kimchi. Comments: I’m rather proud of myself—this follows the New Yarmouth perfectly. But these babies… are exhausting.
SGP:363 - 90 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted |
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January 17, 2026 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Closed Highlanders (Mostly!)
Every so often a variety of samples from closed distilleries accumulates on my shelf, which is always fun as these sessions are a joy to do and increasingly tinged with emotion as the distance in time since these distilleries were closed, and since bottlings of their makes were more ubiquitously available, has grown considerably. |
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However, we will kick off with a wee aperitif which is a bit of a stretch to say bears any connection to this tasting, other than that it purports to be a 'Highland' malt whisky... |
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Secret Highland 35 yo 1985/2020 (47.4%, Mancarella for Scotch 88 Ukrainian Whisky Community, cask #13, hogshead, 88 bottles) 
Thinking of, and sending solidarity to, all our friends in Ukraine. And wishing an eternity of Loch Dhu and tonic upon Mr Putin! Colour: gold. Nose: oils of the mineral and olive variety, plus waxed hessian, Barbour grease, lamp oil and citrus rinds. Continues with beeswax and linseed oil. Classically old school with these waxy and textural qualities but rounded out beautifully by age. Mouth: same characteristics, really on olive oil, sandalwood, copper coins, mineral oils, bouillon, camphor and wee hints of dried parsley, suet and ink. There's a fragile austerity that is very charming. Finish: medium, slightly herbal, and with a lovely crystalised honey note that brings a sudden feeling of late sweetness. Comments: excellent, extremely quaffable and charmingly old school, very 'old highlands' in a way that makes you think more of Clynelish than Glenmorangie - which this is rumoured to be. Also brings to mind some great, aged dry chenin.
SGP: 451 - 89 points. |
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With these closed distilleries, we'll try to ascend in theoretical order of weight. |
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Caperdonich 23 yo 1980/2004 (58%, Cadenhead 'Authentic Collection', bourbon hogshead, 252 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: paraffin, wet leaves, mossy bark and clay! Another nose that also suggests mineral and olive oil qualities. I fear this theory of 'lightest to heaviest' is DOA! This is superb though, some honeys, waxes, wee beery vibes and all manner of oils, varnish and green herbs. With water: herbs, nettles, oils and camphor galore! Mouth: herbal and flower teas, a lot more pure honey notes, flower honey, beeswax etc. Then back on these beery notes with hops, citrus peels, camphor and more mineral oil and clay. With water: much broader, fatter, sootier and drier, with a peppery side emerging that's really terrific. Finish: long, peppery, slightly salty and herbal, with more waxy and oily qualities. Comments: a very big and very excellent old Caperdonich! The love child of old Glen Grant and Convalmore - arguably.
SGP: 562 - 90 points. |
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Dallas Dhu 18 yo 1977/1995 (59.7%, Cadenhead 'Authentic Collection' for USA)
Looks like I really enjoyed a sibling cask of this back in 2019 (WF90), and at that time declared my next Dallas Dhu tasting would be July 2025 - we're not actually that late by Whiskyfun standards! Colour: pale straw. Nose: once again, superb! A wonderful oiliness and sense of pure waxiness, there's also lots of putty, clay, white flowers, plasticine and some lovely coal scuttle and watercress impressions. Another of these old school 'highland' profiles that seems all about texture and fatness., only here there's an element of precision that elevates everything. With water: even fatter and waxier now, candle wax and Barbour grease galore, with honey roast parsnip, dried herbs, suet and cask aged mead. Wonderful! Mouth: full on mineral oils, tiger balm, sooty waxy qualities, pebbles, chalk, herbal tea, camphor, ink, waxed hessian and faint medicinal notes. Also a fantastic impression of freshly sheared sheep wool. Very impressive palate! With water: same feelings, an elevated sense of waxy and textural quality, but perfectly balanced by more of these mead and honey characteristics. Also slight vegetal and earthy notes bringing impressions of bouillon, mustard powder and petrichor. Finish: long, drying, waxy, slightly salty and back on leafy, earthy and mineral qualities. Comments: probably up there with the best Dallas Dhu ever bottled, I'll even go one point higher than its sibling from a few years ago, the fatness, oiliness and overall waxiness are superb!
SGP: 462 - 91 points. |
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Convalmore 14 yo 1981 (61%, Whisky Connoisseur, cask #1150) 
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: a little compact and shy at first, some herbal impressions such as chives and parsley, also a little peppery but that may be the high ABV. A little time and it gets chalkier, some lemon powder, white mushroom - so far a tad austere. With water: gets heavy on the plasticine and a slight tinge of washing powder. Mouth: hmm, not too sure, also an austere profile, with these lemon powder notes returning in a slightly chemical way. Some funny impressions of concrete, cement and wet plaster. With water: it's fine, but we're some distance from Convalmore's usual stately excellence. A faint feeling of something chemical still lingers... Finish: medium, a little porridgey. Comments: an austere and funny profile that was far more common in the 1990s but that's hardly ever seen today. The great highs came with weird lows, and now both have arguably been ironed out. Make of that what you will...
SGP: 531 - 75 points. |
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Banff 23 yo 1976/2000 (54.5%, Signatory Vintage 'Silent Stills' for USA, cask #2250, 245 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: it's been a while since I had a Banff, but they really do immediately make you think of mustard and waxes! Mustard seed, powder, curry leaf, beeswax, church candles etc. This one also leads with tiger balm, tiny coastal inflections and beautiful savoury vibes that bring to mind white miso paste and peppery watercress. Power, but also elegance and beauty! With water: a little greener, a little fresher and more citric, also more mineral, more precise and more chiselled! Mouth: terrific! Superbly waxy, drenched in camphor, soft coastal notes, sandalwood, pollens, a drizzle of seawater in a jar of flower honey, more miso, hessian, coal dust and preserved lemon. Brings to mind some Broras of similar pedigree. With water: brilliant! Waxes, mustard powder, beach pebbles, mineral salts, hessian, herbal cough syrups and teas. Finish: long, beautifully drying, mineral, fat, waxy and peppery. Comments: somewhere between Brora and top tier Montrachet! I forget how much I love Banff!
SGP: 462 - 92 points. |
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Brora 13 yo 1982/1995 (60.4%, Cadenhead 'Authentic Collection')
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: extremely typical. We're immediately all about sheep wool, beach pebbles, bone marrow, kerosine, clay, rainwater, bark, potting shed earthiness, and - of course - waxes! It's funny how these final vintages of Brora often closely recall some of the pre-Brora Clynelish in style, I suppose it makes sense that you would remove the peat and find the original still somewhat intact. With water: cut grass, muddled green herbs, lemon rind, grapefruit and more definite seawater impressions. Beach sand and faint hints of wood smoke and even some lapsing souchong tea. Mouth: it's really all about the texture, the sense of fatness, the weight of the distillate that really sings. Assertive peppery and waxy notes, softer coastal notes in the background, delicate salinity, cooking and mineral oils, more sheep wool impressions and things like ink, crushed nettle and salted honey. Even without peat, this was a huge whisky. With water: fatter and waxier still, but more singular and cohesive. Settles into a more honeyed, gentle profile, some lingering salt and pepper notes, some dried seaweed, some more sheep woold that keeps that farmyard personality alive. Finish: long, perfectly between drying coastal notes, dried out honeys and jumbled minerals. Comments: I suppose it’s very easy to overlook these younger 1980s Brora bottlings given they don't quite have the magisterial impact of the early 1970s vintages. But they have their own charm and this sense of coming full circle, back to something like 1960s Clynelish, is really wonderful and quite moving. I still prefer the Banff on this occasion though.
SGP: 463 - 91 points. |
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January 16, 2026 |
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Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 3/4 |
Yesterday, we mentioned the Caol Ilas distilled at the old distillery, so up until 1972, the year it was more or less demolished ahead of being rebuilt. Let’s see what we can do…
The 'old' Caol Ila Distillery (Diageo) |
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Caol Ila 16 yo (40%, Gordon & MacPhail for Sestante, 75cl, +/-1985)
Gordon & MacPhail held considerable stocks of Caol Ila distilled between 1965 and 1972, most notably from 1969, likely the vintage behind this bottling for Sestante. It’s worth noting that the 1969 16yo ‘old brown banner label’ (WF 93) was magnificent despite its low strength, and this could well be the same batch, shipped unlabelled and later tagged by the importer. Colour: gold. Nose: everything has merged, unified in a dense tapestry of ointments, oils, waxes, and old herbal liqueurs. Irresistibly charming. You reach a point where it becomes impossible to separate the aromas, so tertiary, so intrinsic to the spirit in the glass, that analysis gives way to experience. And perhaps that’s exactly how it should be. Mouth: it brings to mind the Brora 1972s from G&M, slightly worrying at first due to the low ABV, then astonishingly complex and explosive once tasted. Let’s just say it’s the best smoked and salted butter caramel on earth, with a fragility that paradoxically becomes a strength. Finish: inevitably a little short but now comes the parade of missed notes, bergamot and kumquat, smoked fish, incense and ashes. Comments: a Mozart quartet.
SGP:444 - 93 points. |
How to carry on from here? … At random! |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2012/2025 (52.3%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Ireland, recharred American oak hogshead, cask #313104, 314 bottles)
Colour: chardonnay. Nose: not an easy follow-up to the Sestante, but this one holds its own for now, in a style completely opposite, creamier, more polished, thanks to the assertive oak. That said, freshness remains: smoked lemon, oysters, brine, wet ashes… With water: unchanged. Mouth (neat): it works, rich, slightly spicy (cask ‘curry’), but also full of excellent fruit pastes, quince, orange... With water: the saltiness now emerges from the wood. The oak itself is a touch dominant (nutmeg, pepper, ginger). Finish: fairly long, quite cask-driven, with lingering spice. Comments: blind, you’d almost think it was an official bottling. Very good, just a little wee bit too oaky for my personal taste.
SGP:556 - 83 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.4%, Sansibar for Casa de Vinos Whisky Abbey Festival, bourbon cask, 150 bottles)
A Scottish-German-Australian bottling, makes perfect sense, doesn’t it. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: it’s a blade, lemon juice and seawater, cuts straight through the sinuses, really ought to be covered by social security. With water: sea spray and coastal breeze, straight from the west coast of Scotland. Mouth (neat): ultra-classic, therefore perfect, tense, lemony, ashy, salty. Nothing much to add, it’s textbook. With water: lemon and grapefruit reinforce the tautness of the whole. Finish: unwavering, and it goes on, and on, and on… right up to that green pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a whisky like Uma Thurman in Kill Bill.
SGP:467 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 16 yo 2008/2025 (54.8%, Liquid Treasures and The Whisky Fair, Barbados rum barrique finish, Love & Peace series, 274 bottles)
A 40-month finishing, let’s be honest, at that point we’re just calling it double maturation. Colour: gold. Nose: not especially defined at this stage, though attractive. Water will be key here. With water: I must admit, I’m a little lost, it feels like Caol Ila light. Mouth (neat): the rum cask influence is clearly present, but it doesn’t clash, it’s just a bit… ambivalent, shall we say. With water: much more to our liking now, the whisky has taken back control and the poor rum, which probably didn’t ask for any of this, has more or less gone back to bed. Finish: fair length, fairly rounded. Comments: the finishing seems to have nudged this toward a halfway point between classic Caol Ila and some sort of unpeated ‘Highland’ version of Caol Ila. It’s good, very good even, but was it strictly necessary? Still, love, peace and understanding indeed.
SGP:555 - 81 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2013/2025 (54.5%, Signatory Vintage for LMDW Plume, Itinéraires, sherry butt)
There’s been a fair bit of buzz around this one, and it’s high time we gave it a go. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: salted butter caramel. I repeat, salted butter caramel. Then an old fishing trawler docked in a Breton harbour. Presumably it would smell much the same in a Scottish port, only more of whisky than langoustine. With water: hints of varnish, kirsch and amaretti. Mouth (neat): oh it works, pipe tobacco, amaro, hot peppered chocolate, nocino and Arquebuse (you know Arquebuse?). With water: now it’s the peppercorns leading the charge, especially freshly crushed black pepper. Finish: long, very herbal and spicy, probably miles from ‘the distillery’ but through divine intervention, it all comes together this time. Roasted aubergines and bitter chocolate. Comments: a bit of a UFW (1), borderline garage whisky.
SGP:466 - 88 points.
(1) Unidentified Flying Whisky. |
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Caol Ila 13 yo 2012/2025 (53.1%, Decadent Drams, first fill sherry hogshead, 212 bottles)
You can sense from the label that the Decadent Drinks team has some background in the appreciation of flamenco. Colour: amber. Nose: very close to a salty amontillado, packed with walnuts, damp earth and even dried morels. Beneath that, heavily salted butter caramel and wood varnish. With water: lovely acetic and balsamic touches. Mouth (neat): superb bitterness, black pepper, curry, 90% dark chocolate, sherry vinegar and heavily salted jerky. With water: not much change, and that’s a good thing. Finish: same again, only more peppery and bone dry. Brings to mind dark chocolate with chilli, said to be good for you, apparently. Comments: for fans of very dry sherry and peat in tandem. Your humble servant, for instance.
SGP:266 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2009-2010/2025 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, first fill sherry hogshead, 252 bottles)
This flamenco fixation is becoming a real theme! But we do love flamenco too… and we all remember that magical trio: Al Di Meola, John McLaughlin & Paco De Lucia. Colour: amber. Nose: similar style, though less flamboyant, less acetic and saline, more focused on peat and walnuts, with touches of leather and tobacco. Feels slightly closed, especially after the devilish 2012, but water should sort that out. With water: the tobacco rises to the fore. Mouth (neat): we’re back in 2012 territory, though leaning more toward bitter oranges and lapsang souchong. With water: here the salinity takes the lead, think a rather extreme manzanilla. Finish: same story, lovely length. Black pepper and chilli in the aftertaste. Comments: water is absolutely essential with this one. We also suspect that both of these excellent bottles will benefit from cellaring, or a spot on the darkest shelf.
SGP:366 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2010/2024 (55.9%, The Whisky Blues, ex-Jamaican rum JMWP barrel, cask #318192, 217 bottles)
JMWP is of course Worthy Park, so let’s see whether this tango between Islay and rum finds its rhythm here, though one wouldn't be too sure, it might well jar. Colour: light gold. Nose: the combination is most earthy, with pronounced tincture of iodine and a faint sulphurous edge. Cabbage soup and spent fireworks. With water: it calms down, Caol Ila reasserts itself, showing some lovely notes of damp ashes and mint infusions, although one wonders whether the latter might be born of the malt-rum coupling. Mouth (neat): very intense, ultra-briny and peppery, you get the sense that the rum and the Islay are taking turns boosting each other, and perhaps it all goes a wee bit too far... With water: once again, it’s Islay that carries the day. Ashes, lemon, seawater. Finish: same elements. A return of fairly assertive pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a very good Caol Ila but one that rather nudges you out of your comfort zone and may well lose you a little.
SGP:466 - 84 points. |
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Caol Ila 13 yo 2010/2023 (55.4%, Whisky Age, refill barrel, cask #319312, 220 bottles)
This one ought to be far more classical… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: indeed, it’s very fresh, on oysters and clams, lemon, fresh seaweed and a touch of wax, then some ashes but of the gentlest sort. With water: a chiselled Caol Ila, of great purity. Mouth (neat): perfect, lemony, brisk, still on ashes and oysters. Entirely clean-cut, simple yet effective, not the faintest hitch. With water: lovely medicinal touches appear, cough syrup, camphor, fir honey, eucalyptus pastilles… Finish: fairly long, precise, saline, very lovely. Comments: tremendous purity here, we’re smitten.
SGP:566 - 88 points. |
Let’s finish with another young oldie… |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 1982/1994 ‘Cask Strength’ (62.4%, The Cooper’s Choice, VA.MA Italy)
We’d tasted another 1982 (b. 1995) Cask Strength by Cooper’s Choice just two days ago, and it had been excellent. Colour: white wine. Nose: lighter peat than in more recent vintages at a similar age, with a profile leaning more towards apple than lemon, yet brimming with elegance. Redcurrant, sauvignon blanc, spent matchboxes, oil lamp… In reality we’re clearly in close territory to the previous one. With water: chalk and fresh mint, then the usual virgin wool. From Islay sheep, naturally. Mouth (neat): lemons make a comeback, alongside plum eau-de-vie and vin jaune… But heavens, this is powerful! With water: perfect trio of green apple, smoked salmon and oysters. Finish: long and a little fattier, bringing to mind lemon-infused olive oil, though that’s not exactly my favourite. Comments: so we’d tasted that 1982 by Cooper’s Choice some years ago which had been simply sublime (WF 91) but that one was 30 years old. These younger versions are magnificent too, but even after thirty years in bottle, they haven’t yet attained that ultimate polish. I suspect we might have to wait another 30 years to reach that kind of level.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
Very well, that makes thirty Caol Ilas for now. I think on Monday we’ll push it to forty and stop there. |
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January 15, 2026 |
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Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 2/4 |
Without further ado, let’s pick up where we left off yesterday …
(Caol Ila
/Diageo) |
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Caol Ila 8 yo (48%, Wilson & Morgan, Quercus Alba, 2024)
An amusing mention of Quercus alba, white oak, in other words, American oak, which must represent around 90% of the wood used for whisky maturation in Scotland, whether ex-bourbon or ex-sherry. Colour: white wine. Nose: immediate wafts of iodine tincture, then more classic Caol Ila notes, sea water and kelp, with a rather elegant and restrained smoke. A couple of oysters and an old tin of white paint forgotten in a Scottish warehouse. Mouth: chiselled, smoky, lemony and saline, ultra-classic. Excellent. Finish: the usual and rather irresistible combo of ashes, lemon juice and brine. Comments: this young bairn gets the job done to perfection. In fact, the peat is fairly punchy for a Caol Ila.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (49%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, refill bourbon hogshead, 285 bottles)
Everything feels nicely aligned here. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a little lighter and less peaty than the 8-year-old, starting off on petrichor and damp hay smoke, then warm bread dough. In the background, an empty seafood platter, post-meal. Mouth: this shifts into more classic territory, smokier, drier, more ‘fino’, with plenty of ashes, green walnut, and the expected oysters. There’s also a touch of chlorophyll. Finish: fairly long, quite singular, with something akin to smoky chlorophyll syrup, should such a thing exist. A whisper of Maggi and mint lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: more singular than the young Wilson & Morgan, and just as much to my liking.
SGP:456 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 8 yo 2016/2025 (44.3%, Jean Boyer, Gifted Stills of Scotland, barrel, 653 bottles)
A house we’ve always held in high regard, they were instrumental in introducing malt to France under the Auxil label. Colour: white wine. Nose: the fruitiest so far, with immediate but subtle notes of pineapple and mango that marry well with CI’s trademark coastal freshness. Then grapefruit, ashes and oysters take over, followed by seaweed. Mouth: saltier, more 'sea water', lively yet disarmingly charming, lemony, with notes of kippers but dominated by ash. Delightful. Finish: a light duet of liquorice wood and gentian, not unusual for this profile. Good length and excellent freshness. Comments: yet again, a slightly different profile, but overall quality remains consistent, meaning excellent.
SGP:566 - 87 points. |
Right then, something even younger, though in our modest experience, peat easily adds the equivalent of five extra years in terms of perceived maturity. So 10 = 15, if you like. |
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Caol Ila 2017/2024 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Intercaves, 2nd fill Barbaresco finish, cask #67583)
When it comes to red wine finishes, we tend to think second fill is better than first fill. And perhaps third fill better still, but let’s not stir up too much trouble… Colour: pale gold, with the faintest salmon hue, nearly invisible. Nose: the wine influence is certainly there but remains discreet, some lingonberries perhaps. Otherwise, a young and flawless Caol Ila in classic form. But it’s the palate that really matters in this kind of setup… Mouth: similar impression, a slightly grippy vinosity appears, yet the balance of ashes and seawater isn’t disturbed. Let’s just say we’ve moved from grapefruit to pink grapefruit. Perhaps… Finish: good length, more saline, but without slipping into any sweet-salty territory. Comments: I still prefer the naked versions, but I must admit this little one was put together with care, and it’s very good indeed.
SGP:566 - 84 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (56.4%, Whisky Age, refill barrel, cask #319311, 209 bottles)
True artists behind these labels, cooler than Mr Grok, really. Here it’s MasonYin, worth a search. Colour: white wine. Nose: perhaps it’s the higher strength, but this one feels much oilier and fatter than the others, pistachio oil, olive oil, before moving on to roots, carrots, seaweed, and even winkles. With water: penetrating now, penetrating oil, motor oil, then chalk and virgin wool. Mouth (neat): some rather unusual petroly notes for CI, paraffin, damp cardboard… I reckon water will sort that out. With water: still a bit of that cardboardy and even faintly cologne-y edge, otherwise we’re back on ashes and seawater. Finish: long, briny, almost slightly vinegary. And yes, still a touch of wet cardboard. Comments: a rather unusual cask, this isn’t your textbook ultra-clean Caol Ila. But it’s still very good.
SGP:565 - 84 points. |
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Caol Ila 1984/2000 (59.8%, Gordon & MacPhail, CASK, cask #6098-6101)
The 1984s haven’t always been magical under the Connoisseurs Choice label, but this one might be a different beast. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: immaculate, candle wax, ashes, sea water and shellfish. What’s lacking here, compared to younger vintages, is citrus. On the other hand, there’s plenty of mercurochrome so far. With water: as is often the case with G&M at cask strength, the whisky turns quite cloudy once diluted. The nose becomes gorgeous, fresh paint, mostly. Mouth (neat): this time it’s apples and lemons, plus peppered olives. Rather fatty, and absolutely splendid. With water: fantastic, and still very powerful at around 45% vol., our favourite reduction level. Cough syrup, but the kind that would cure much more than a cold. Finish: very long, with a pinch of chilli pepper added to that syrupy mix. Slight camphor in the aftertaste. Comments: loads going on here, this is simply excellent.
SGP:567 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 1984/1996 (50%, Moon Import, Dovr-Toutes-Mares)
We have always wondered what on earth that series’ name was supposed to mean. Now that we’ve got ChatGPT, we dared to ask, and it turns out even it hasn’t got a clue. For once, no made-up answers. Likely something to do with ancient geography, going by the labels, but certainly not Latin. Colour: white wine. Nose: here comes the beeswax and paraffin, overripe apples, whelks and clams, with very soft, almost vanishing peat. With water: old wax polish and the interior of a vintage car, not necessarily Italian, with freshly polished leather seats. Mouth (neat): indeed, it’s rounder, more honeyed and waxier than the G&M, though still with plenty of grip. Moules mariniere and cédrat liqueur. With water: you’d never guess it was just twelve years old, ashes, brine, olives and maritime smoke return. The wax has almost faded. Almost. Finish: fairly long, on the classic trio of oysters, ashes and lemon. The beeswax comes back in the aftertaste. Comments: excellent stuff, I’m quite sure the 29 years in bottle have done it a world of good.
SGP:556 - 90 points. |
Let’s get back to the young ones… |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2008/2025 (57.5%, Fadandel, ex-bourbon quarter cask, cask #314559)
The size of a quarter cask can vary depending on whether it's a quarter of a barrel, a butt, or something else entirely. Laphroaig’s quarter casks, for instance, hold around 130 litres, not exactly a quarter of an ASB. So yes, it’s a bit messy… Colour: full gold. Nose: gentle wafts of menthol, clearly a more active cask, but balance hasn’t been compromised in the slightest. Some rubber and seaweed. With water: phew, we were worried, but while the wood is very present, the distillate holds its ground. At first, it feels like someone smoking a Kool menthol cigarette. Not in Europe though, apparently that’s been banned since 2020, so I’ve just learnt. Mouth (neat): creamy, courtesy of the cask. Beyond that, ashes, pepper, curry, oyster, lemon… With water: this is where it becomes more classic, even if the wood remains prominent. Brine, pepper, turmeric, ashes and so on. Finish: very long and even spicier. Comments: perhaps not the ideal dram to follow those sublime 1984s from G&M and Moon, but didn’t we agree to taste things at random?
SGP:567 - 85 points. |
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Port Askaig 16 yo 2008/2025 (54.2%, Elixir Distillers for LMDW Itinéraires)
Yesterday’s bottling for Germany leaned into new or activated oak, this one may prove quite different. Colour: gold. Nose: ultra-precise, almost skeletal but in the best possible way, so p.r.e.c.i.s.e. Like dousing a fire in a limestone hearth with seawater. With water: more classically coastal now, new wool jumper and wafts of boot polish. Mouth (neat): much more texture here, and while the oak clearly had its say, the lemon crème with green pepper and paprika feels rather refined. With water: it finds balance, though the wood remains active, lemon tart, heavily steeped green tea, ginger, cigar ashes. Finish: long, always dancing between active wood and saline, ashy freshness. A whisper of coconut on the aftertaste, even a touch of Thai broth. Comments: excellent, very modern, focused, and full of intent.
SGP:666 - 86 points. |
I think we’re at nine, we did say ten at a time, so just one more for today. Maybe another old one? |
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Caol Ila 24 yo 1974/1998 (53.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #53.32, 325 bottles)
One of the early fillings from the newly rebuilt Caol Ila distillery, which had just emerged from a complete reconstruction. Strangely, many 1974s popped up among the independents, but then again the distillery’s production capacity had just been significantly increased. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh yes, manzanilla, lemon juice, green walnut, smoked salmon, vin jaune, a touch of curry, a smidgen of mustard, it’s all eminently coherent. With water: just add two or three drops of mercurochrome. Mouth (neat): perfect, creamy, packed with citrus and ashes. The precision is so sharp it’s almost embarrassing. With water: it shifts gears entirely, luminous salinity, eucalyptus, and a medley of ashes in all styles. Pine, charcoal, tobacco, beech, hay… Finish: long, salty and bitter in the most beautiful way. Bark, roots… Only the aftertaste feels slightly raspy and a touch coarse. Comments: as the saying goes, here’s a whisky that had plenty to say, and said it with firm conviction.
SGP:566 - 91 points. |
We’ll try to taste some Caol Ila from the old distillery starting tomorrow. For now, good night. |
(Thank you again, KC and Tom) |
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January 14, 2026 |
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Caol Ila in Utter Chaos, Part 1/4 |
You may already know this, but we love vertical tastings, especially by vintage, to track any changes in style over time. But we also really enjoy diving into large sessions in complete disorder — it's more fun that way. You just have to make sure not to start off with an absolute beast that could ruin the rest of your tasting. Oh, and take your time if you've got any. Here we go… |
(Caol Ila/Diageo) |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2011/2025 (58.7%, Best Dram, 1st fill red wine barrique, cask #900098, 279 bottles)
Entirely matured in a Bordeaux barrique, not just finished therein, which is worth noting, although the colour shows no salmon or rosé hues whatsoever, which is rather reassuring. Colour: let’s say light apricot. Nose: this is remarkably gentle, with pink peppercorns and assorted small red berries, all rather well-balanced, though at the cost of Caol Ila’s usual feral edge, already somewhat tamed in general, now rather dialled down. Some chalk, ashes, and oysters in raspberry jam—an experiment one ought to attempt someday, perhaps. With water: bruised strawberries on the ground, plus a few fresh rubbery notes. Mouth (neat): smoked and salted red fruits, say redcurrant jelly licked off burnt driftwood. The pink pepper returns, now with pink grapefruit thrown in, of the fleshy, bittersweet kind. With water: green pepper, pink pepper, and briny water. Finish: fairly long, though without any further evolution. Comments: really not bad at all, but it remains something of an oddity. A fine opener to kick off a session.
SGP:655 - 81 points. |
May as well go for a sister cask while we're at it... |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2011/2025 (53.5%, The Stillman’s De, 1st fill marsala, cask #900113, 290 bottles)
Marsala ought to be far less deviant than red Bordeaux, and indeed, that seems to be the case. Colour: full gold. Nose: the aromas of the Sicilian wine and those of the whisky are far more aligned here, or adjacent if you prefer, than in the previous configuration. Caol Ila comes through much purer, with crab, shellfish, ashes, sea water, and a trace of cigar tobacco trailing its own ashes. With water: a brand-new box of rubber bands and a handful of bitter almonds. Mouth (neat): excellent, with bitter oranges, lemon, sea water, ashes, greenish peat and tiny pickles in brine. With water: just lovely. Finish: very elegant too, with a faint touch of mustard. Comments: I’ve no idea if this was Grillo, thus a white Marsala, but it could well be. Not all are great, but from top houses like De Bartoli, Grillo can be utterly splendid. Just my two pence… In any case, in this rather particular context, it leaves the red wines in the dust.
SGP:566 - 87 points. |
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Port Askaig 10 yo 2014/2025 (57.8%, Elixir Distillers, for Kirsch Import, toasted barrel, cask #1033)
It’s long been accepted that these Port Askaigs are Caol Ila in disguise, barring the very oldest ones, and nothing has come along to convince us otherwise so far. That said, peated Bunnahabhains could also be contenders. Colour: gold. Nose: rather rich and creamier than the previous ones, with banana, mastic, camphoraceous touches and seaweed dried on a sunny beach. We’re just waiting on the oysters now… With water: sauna oils and freshly sawn wood, a faint ‘IKEA note’, if you will. Mouth (neat): the banana’s back, some toastiness perhaps, then lashings of mustard and curry. The cask was seriously talkative. With water: it’s the wood calling the shots here. Finish: long, with paprika and more curry. Comments: oak is cool, but let’s not overdo it. That said, this one’s very, very, very good, of course.
SGP:575 - 84 points. |
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Caol Ila 'Distillers Edition 2023' (43%, OB)
This one's never quite been our thing, and pairing Moscatel with Caol Ila remains something of an uphill task. Let’s press on, then… Colour: pale gold. Nose: you do get the muscat loud and clear, yet it doesn’t clash too much with the Islay side—here in a softer guise, leaning slightly towards mint. Mouth: vinous, but not bad at all, fairly fresh, muscat-laced indeed, aromatic and slightly sweet. Finish: pink grapefruit, lightly salted and peppered. Comments: really quite alright, even good in fact, though it’s not as if we’re short on other Caol Ilas.
SGP:555 - 81 points. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2014/2024 ‘Edition #28’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 proof, 1st fill & refill oloroso sherry butt)
A most commendable and ‘clever’ series from SigV. Colour: pale gold. Nose: I suspect the proportion of first fill was kept relatively low, and if that’s the case, so much the better, as everything remains wonderfully fresh, with overripe apples, soft leather, whelks and salmiak. Really lovely. With water: a touch of eucalyptus and medicinal notes, mercurochrome, and pink grapefruit peel. Mouth (neat): echoes of the official Cask Strength, as far as I recall, with green walnut, ashes, fine bitterness, seaweed and oysters. With water: elegantly chiselled peat, as they say, blended with lemon and bitter notes of the ‘Italian’ variety, not necessarily bright red, mind you. Finish: long, vibrant, fresh, peppery and peaty. No dissonance whatsoever. Comments: truly beautiful and admirably classic, I nearly went up to 88.
SGP:456 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 4 yo 2019/2023 (61.4%, Milroy’s Soho Collection, 1st Fill Rivesaltes, casks #309863+ 309880)
Was this meant as a provocation, or was there sound reasoning behind offering a Caol Ila at just 4 years of age? And matured in Rivesaltes, no less? Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: no idea what kind of Rivesaltes this was, but it certainly shows. Feels a bit like a CI DE at cask strength, if you will. Mandarins, muesli, peaty smoke, rose petals, porridge, grape berries… With water: the distillate regains control, with a rather lovely combo of camphor, mint, and eucalyptus—quite unexpected in this context. Mouth (neat): very ‘trans’, with loads of peppered apples, apricot jam stirred with lapsang souchong, and blood orange. You get the idea. With water: same evolution as on the nose, once hydrated—more camphor, mint, eucalyptus and a touch of lemon. Finish: long, fresh, medicinal. Comments: there’s a provocative edge to this slightly transgenic CI, but the job’s been very well done. I was wary at first, but in the end, I like it quite a lot.
SGP:566 - 85 points. |
While we're at it with wine... |
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Caol Ila, 10 yo 2015/2025 (58.3%, Lady of the Glen, refill ruby Port finish, 300 bottles)
The word ‘ruby’ is a bit unsettling, but ‘refill’ is somewhat reassuring. Beyond that, we trust Lady of the Glen. Colour: mirabelle with a faint onion-skin hue. Nose: not bad at all. Strawberry sponge, white chocolate and pistachio (not quite Dubai-style, mind), then chamomile and wild rose. It’s different. With water: damp earth, soot and seaweed return in earnest. Mouth (neat): a rather fine winesky, peppery and citrus-driven, with a good dose of bitterness. With water: more pickled now. Italian-style preserved lemons, if you like. In the end, it’s Italian cuisine that seems closest in spirit to malt whisky, which might explain its early success across the Alps. Finish: long, sweet-salty-bitter. Comments: for a ruby Port paired with peat—a rather improbable combination, let’s be honest—this one turned out rather well.
SGP:566 - 83 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2001/2019 (57.9%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, for Shinanoya Tokyo, refill American hogshead, batch #19/063, 247 bottles)
Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: oh lovely, almond milk, paraffin, fresh butter, fresh tar, shellfish and crustaceans, old fisherman's ropes washed up on the shore. Could one possibly get more classic—or more beautiful? With water: damp ashes, pencil lead and carbon paper. Mouth (neat): perfectly sharp and precise, with kippers, lemon, green apples and oysters. With water: even better—lively, taut, with coriander seeds and above all heaps of citrus and black pepper. Finish: razor-like, yet gentle. Then comes the green pepper. Comments: let’s not beat about the bush, this style sends all those finishings and wine cask maturations straight back to nursery school.
SGP:567 - 90 points. |
That was also the kind of bottle that proves Caol Ila is absolutely not a ‘lighter’ Islay. Right then, let’s carry on, randomly... |
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Caol Ila 30 yo 1980/2011 (58.8%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, bourbon, cask #4688, 196 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: candle wax and sweet almonds—here comes an old-style CI, brimming with charm and refinement. These are often the loveliest. Notes of smoked salmon, manzanilla, langoustines and linseed oil. With water: that old tweed jacket, the one that's weathered many storms, makes its grand return. Mouth (neat): absolutely stunning, though far edgier than the nose suggested—peppered lemon, Thai basil, and a near-brutal salty-citric blast that borders on the ‘chemical’—in the best possible way, mind, especially considering the number of Caol Ilas we cross paths with. Vive la différence, as they say in some parts of Paris. With water: a delightful touch of wonkiness now—smoked brine, resinous ashes, and plenty of mischief. Finish: medium in length, salty-bitter, just a touch challenging—but that’s precisely why we love it. Peppery seawater? Perhaps even a hint of strawberry. Comments: another cracking adventure. One or two bonus points awarded purely for the character.
SGP:366 - 90 points. |
Let’s finish with another “oldie” and there’ll be plenty more CIs tomorrow and in the days to come. The thing is, we’re hoping to reach 1,000 Caol Ilas before we shut down this wretched little website. You might say it’s doable — we were at 903 before this session… |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 1982/1995 ‘Cask Strength’ (60%, The Cooper’s Choice, VA.MA Italy)
So many fine Islays from Vintage Malt Whisky Co.—Lagavulin, Port Ellen, and of course Caol Ila, which brings us here today. And let’s not miss the chance to taste some youthful old CI, as that’s often when the DNA shows most clearly. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is fairly massive, nothing light about it, yet an obvious elegance shines through—whitecurrants, top-tier sauvignon blanc, birchwood or beech, and paraffin oil. With water: doesn’t budge an inch. Perhaps a touch of virgin wool. Mouth (neat): superb tension, lemony and almost vinegary, with heaps of ashes and something like a grand vin jaune, à la Overnoy if that means anything to you. With water: the palate loses some structure with dilution, at least with our usual Vittel (Nestlé, are we still waiting on that cheque?) Finish: fairly long, salty and waxy, ending on green apple. Comments: magnificent, though not exactly easy drinking—water behaves very differently on nose and palate.
SGP:466 - 88 points. |
Right, ten at a time is more than enough. In any case, when we post longer sessions — like the 21 Karuizawas not long ago — it’s because we tasted them over multiple sittings. Right then, see you… |
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January 13, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
Indie Strathmill,
47 and 12 years old |
Ah, Strathmill! Another Speyside distillery that isn’t heavily marketed but which we love tasting, nonetheless. It remains relatively rare, and it’s probably not the modest official Flora & Fauna release that’s going to turn Strathmill into the next Macallan. At any rate, not just yet… That said, there have been quite a few fairly old Strathmills released by independent bottlers in recent years – but certainly not a 47-year-old like the one we’re about to start with today. This breaks with convention, not least because its bottling strength is fairly modest, especially compared to the little powerhouse we’ll be setting it against today.
It’s worth noting that Strathmill, like Knockando, is one of the malts associated with the J&B brand. |
This famous press advert for J&B dates precisely from 1974, the year the first Strathmill we’re about to taste was distilled. |
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Strathmill 47 yo 1974/2021 (41.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Dram Takers, Book of Kells, refill American hogshead, 50 bottles)
Who doesn’t like G&M’s famous Book of Kells labels? Hands up! In any case, here comes the oldest Strathmill we’ve ever had the pleasure of encountering. The previous holder of this enviable distinction was a 39-year-old 1962/2001 from a well-known Glasgow-based indy bottler. Sadly, that one had felt a little ‘over the hill’ on the palate (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: a curious medley of crushed banana and olive oil to start—are you in? Then a splash of orgeat syrup enlivened with a hint of mint and pine bud liqueur. Followed by whiffs of marzipan, waxed cardboard and beehive air. But worry not, there’s no sting in the tail; quite the opposite in fact, as it’s all rather elegant, with a restrained sort of refinement, gently lifted by the mint after a few minutes’ rest. Mouth: this is unmistakably an old whisky, with the wood having taken the upper hand, no doubt about it, yet there’s also lighter balsa and incense, green banana, more olive oil, and above all a rather striking and genuinely surprising salinity. A few wisps of tobacco too, along with a little bit of tea leaf for good measure. Finish: not very long, but the olive oil and salt do a fine job of keeping the whole thing together. One could almost dunk slices of crusty country bread in one’s glass and call it lunch. A bitter almond note lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: there’s something genuinely moving about this very old Strathmill, as if it were quietly bidding us farewell. With tremendous poise and a tear in its (our!) eye.
SGP:361 - 89 points. |
Quite possibly the complete opposite now… |
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Strathmill 12 yo 1992/2005 (63.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon barrel, 216 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: it’s almost amusing, so intensely is it on cider apples, crushed slate and... not much else really, apart from a good dose of lawn. Nearly 64% vol., mind you... With water: about-face! Here come the greengages, angelica, fresh almonds, wee pears and fresh jujubes. Oh, and a touch of barley too... Mouth (neat): this one’s brutal, it goes full throttle on apple eau-de-vie, with even a glimmer of multi-column rum. Glug! With water: not a huge transformation, but the texture becomes oilier, slightly fattier, and now there’s a little lemon zest thrown into the melee. But what a beast! Finish: long, with more assorted lemons turning up, and a reprise—though in a more toned-down, sweetened manner—of that olive oil and salt combo last seen in the moving Dram Takers. Bit more bitterness on the aftertaste. Comments: well, it’s still a bit of a bruiser, let’s be honest.
SGP:371 - 84 points. |
(A thousand gracias, Tom) |
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January 12, 2026 |
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WF's Quirky Little Duos,
today Hillside vs sparring partner |
You may have noticed that we've been sampling quite a few closed distilleries lately, and we're absolutely delighted about it, if only as humble archivists of Scottish styles and flavours. |
This time, it's Glenesk's turn, a distillery whose name was changed to Hillside around the mid-1960s, before reverting to Glenesk in 1980, only to be closed in 1985 and then almost completely demolished in the 1990s. So it’s indeed a Hillside, not a Glenesk, that we’ll be tasting today, as it was distilled in 1969. Led Zeppelin again, perhaps. After that, we’ll be looking for a little sparring partner from the same region, though there aren’t all that many to choose from. No, no Lochside currently in the stash.
'Vat 69. It looks like alcohol, it tastes like alcohol; in fact, it is alcohol.' French press advert for Vat 69, whose base malt at the time was Glenesk/Hillside, 1980s.
For once, a brand that tells you nothing but the truth! |
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Hillside (Glenesk) 25 yo 1969/1995 (61.9%, OB, Rare Malts)
We’ve only ever tasted around twenty Glenesk/Hillsides and would be hard pressed to summarise the style. But that said, another Rare Malt, the 1971/1997, had struck us as rather rough when we tried it, though that was twenty years ago (WF 82). Worth noting, Glenesk did exist as an official bottling back in the 1970s, under the William Sanderson & Son (DCL) banner. But we can't say it had left much of an impression on us in… 2004 (WF 60), we found it ‘weak and short’. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: straight off, it’s that grassy side again, green apple and paraffin, very typical of this series when you’re faced with examples drawn from what seems to be umpteenth-fill wood, as seems to be the case here. That’s good news, we like that—this way, you really connect with the distillate. Bit by bit, other rather shy fruits start peeking through, such as wee pears, quinces and medlars, then comes porridge, muesli and even soluble aspirin, you almost feel this baby was distilled yesterday. No OBE at all so far. With water: doesn’t move an inch, it just becomes more expressive on the nose, and as a result quite splendid. Very impressive, not unlike some old Rosebanks. Mouth (neat): immense arrival, hyper-lemony, yet wrapped in a chalky and faintly honeyed coat. It sends a lovely shiver down your spine, especially at this strength, but we’re into that sort of thing, aren’t we. With water: splendidly lemony, extremely zesty, very mineral too, then gradually unfolding on small orchard fruits, with utterly mad elegance. Finish: very long and hardly changes. Slightly sharp, superb, with a surprising note of blueberry popping up right at the end. Comments: the best Hillside/Glenesk we've ever come across, though you'll tell me that wasn’t difficult. I believe this is one worth actively tracking down; the bottle we’re tasting is No. 5021, so it must’ve come from a fairly large batch.
SGP:561 – 91 points. |
As we don’t have another Glenesk to hand, we’ll quickly look for another malt from the area nearby Montrose. A Glencadam, for instance, as the distillery is less than half an hour away... But we’ll keep this brief, as the comparison doesn’t make a huge amount of sense, we agree. |
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Glencadam 13 yo 2012/2025 (53%, Decadent Drinks, Decadent Drams, refill barrel, 282 bottles)
Judging by the label, this ought to be a rather diabolical whisky. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this is mad, believe it or not, but it’s remarkably close to older malts such as, say the tougher North Port (we've tried some a few weeks back), with cider, soft ale, bruised apples, quince, biscuit dough, sourdough… Truly, it’s mad. With water: an old bouquet of flowers, paraffin wax… Mouth (neat): this time it’s livelier, more herbaceous, more bitter too… It’s quite a full-bodied malt, but not terribly, um, ‘sexy’. With water: the pears take charge and never let go. Bonkers. Finish: fairly long, wildly rustic at its peak, I’d say you’d need to be a young Scot from the wilder reaches to genuinely appreciate this kind of rather uncivilised malt. Comments: right, we understand, don’t we. It sure gets the job done, but the old Hillside would rather soundly trounce it all the same.
SGP: 451 - 84 points. |
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January 11, 2026 |
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A few rums to get through the snow and storms
Winds reaching 200 km/h along the Atlantic coast, thirty centimetres of snow here and there, that’s more than enough to have us dreaming of the tropics and their most famous produce: mangoes. I mean, rum. Let’s see what we can find to warm us up (though I should remind you — as any skier knows — that technically, alcohol doesn’t warm you up, quite the opposite). Let’s begin with our traditional little apéritif… |
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Mount Gay ‘XO Triple Cask Blend’ (43%, OB, Barbados, +/-2025)
Unclear proportions of column and pot still rum in the mix, sadly undisclosed, matured in American whisky casks—presumably American oak, though perhaps not first fill—and in Cognac casks, so French oak, but again likely not first fill either. Still with me? Colour: full gold. Nose: honestly, rather lovely to start with, opening on a touch of nail varnish before moving towards roasted peanuts and vanilla cream, eventually settling on shortbread biscuits dipped in milk chocolate. The whole affair feels fairly composed, not too loud, which we do quite appreciate. Mouth: follows on nicely from the nose, with good weight despite the modest strength, showing a bit of mango juice (there it is)) and fig cake. Hints of liquorice, very faint, though no obvious raisins from the Cognac casks, which might have been expected. Finish: not overly long but very well balanced, with notes of black tea. Comments: very likeable, fairly dry, and I do find it a touch better than the earlier XO (WF 82).
SGP:351 - 83 points. |
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Foursquare 13 yo 2007/2021 (62.1%, The Colours of Rum, Barbados, No.10, cask #14, 328 bottles)
This one, too, could be considered a kind of finishing, as the wee thing spent eleven years in the tropics before a final two in a former English malt cask, likely St. George. Yes, we’re running a tad late here... Colour: full gold. Nose: very close indeed to Mount Gay—could one speak of a unified Barbadian style? Fairly light structure but with serious alcoholic clout, showing vanilla, nail varnish, macarons, and white chocolate... With water: still weightier and more unctuous than its compatriot, which might, I do say might, point to a greater share of pot still. Mouth (neat): hefty power, a sharp and energetic arrival that has one wondering whether that English malt wasn’t kind of peated. Quite a bit of lime, verging on premixed mojito, indeed we're being dramatic again. With water: everything softens and rounds off nicely, though the welcome liveliness remains. That impression of light peat has now vanished. Walnuts, pecans, café latte. Finish: a touch of drying oak, though still entirely pleasant. Remarkably close to Mount Gay in style. Comments: handsome bottle, as expected.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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Spanish Heavy Rum 18 yo ‘Long Fermentation’ (59.2%, C. Dully Selection, 214 bottles, 2025)
This one fermented for no fewer than three weeks in wood, was pot-distilled, and matured in Spanish oak from the Pyrenees. In theory, proper Spanish rum (as opposed to Spanish-style or foreign rum dressed up in Spanish packaging) ought to hail from the Canaries, perhaps Arehucas? Then again, we really haven’t the faintest clue... Colour: gold. Nose: smells of cane juice, old copper, roasted pecans and black turrón... With water: more nougat, hazelnut cake, and assorted Lindt chocolates (as the house of C. Dully is Swiss, after all) ... Mouth (neat): phew, not a trace of the sugar that’s usually dosed with wild abandon in rums of this persuasion. We do get that faint metallic touch we rather enjoy, alongside ripe passion fruit and toasted oily nuts. So far, not exactly ‘heavy’ on the palate, but a few drops of water could shift things. With water: indeed, not a total volte-face but we’re now finding notes of brine, salmiak, earth, even olives, which do rather evoke those rums from Madeira. But Madeira is in Portugal, not Spain (bravo, S.) Finish: long, salty, brisk, now bringing in salted anchovies. Comments: astonishing how much water transforms this one. Our rating refers to the hydrated version. In any case, I believe this is the finest Spanish rum we’ve ever tasted.
SGP:552 - 85 points. |
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Cuban 46 yo 1978/2025 (57.5%, The Whisky Blues, ex-Islay STR barrels, cask #2315303, 268 bottles)
So it turns out they’ve been STR-ising whisky casks too, not just wine casks, though one suspects this might simply be automated rejuvenation à la Cambus Cooperage. On paper, it sounds a touch Frankensteinian, but as always, the truth lies in the glass… Colour: deep gold. Nose: at first nosing, this leans towards a low-mark Jamaican, with a modest ester count and lashings of roasted and salted peanuts. Clearly richer than your average elderly Cuban. With water: cigar ash and Tesla brake pads. Mouth (neat): quite the surprise—this is peated rum, no less. Ashy coffee. It’s like a whole new sub-category, though we've encountered a few like it before—just not a 46-year-old Cuban, mind you. With water: well, it works, though it clearly straddles two worlds. Finish: medium in length, more rooty now, which often happens with these. Comments: something of a Cuban in Jamaican drag, rather like those old Porsche Turbo-looks. No turbo, but jolly good fun.
SGP:453 - 85 points. |
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Navy Blend (57.1%, Famille Ricci and RumX, blend, 2025)
A British Navy-style blend uniting Caroni, TDL, New Yarmouth, Hampden and Diamond—a true feat for a French house, I must say, in channelling the spirit of the Royal Navy. Then again, it’s been over two centuries since old Napoleon’s time. The youngest rum in the mix is a 2014 Hampden, so we’re looking at something around 10 or 11 years old here. Psst, could we one day have a rhum of the Marine Nationale as well? Colour: amber. Nose: a proper big band of a rum, no doubt about it, with perhaps only the TDL manning the violins—then again, heavy TDL certainly exists. I do love this sort of ultra-classic composition, though it leans heavier than, say, Black Tot. With water: it softens, clears up, grows more refined, but also heads towards petrol and olive oil territory. That, we do enjoy. Mouth (neat): it’s heavy, though far from overwhelming, lifted by some rather lovely preserved citrus fruits. With water: this is where it truly shines for our palate, the saline edge swelling beautifully, almost evoking black olives. Finish: long, pure salmiak liqueur, if such a thing exists, with a touch of slightly burnt caramel in the aftertaste. Comments: really excellent for a blend.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted |
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January 9, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today 1989 Cragganmore twenty years apart |
If there’s one distillery we don’t taste often enough for my liking, it’s Cragganmore. Its various expressions—apart from perhaps a few ‘secret’ editions—are as rare as a dictator’s remorse. At least we can count on some older bottlings we’ve yet to sample to keep flying the flag high... |
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Cragganmore-Glenlivet 16 yo 1989/2005 (58.6%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, butt, 678 bottles)
The few 1989s by Cadenhead (two, in fact) that we’ve already tasted were very much to our liking. Perhaps owing to the flat and broad stills and, of course, the worm tubs. Colour: full gold. Nose: fat and extraordinarily winey. And by winey, I mean it exhales notes of venerable white wine of great pedigree, perhaps a Montrachet or one of its closely related crus. What follows is a curious mix of rose petal and camphor with just a touch of paraffin. In short, a highly unusual nose… With water: the paraffin remains and is joined by linseed oil and charcoal fixative. In short, a malt for artists. Mouth (neat): incredible, there's little difference with the nose, so we’re still on old Chardonnay and paraffin, but also an immense bitterness that would send both Fernet-Branca and Jeppson’s Malört back to the Graduate School of Bitterness. With water: barely budges and remains extremely bitter. But we do like our bitterness firm, even if we may well be the only ones in the entire village. I mean, to this extent. Finish: very long, very bitter, and even rather salty. Was this a fino butt? Comments: a proper warrior, this Cragganmore, one that doesn’t compromise in the slightest.
SGP:172 - 87 points. |
And now, with twenty more years of maturation… |
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Cragganmore 36 yo 1989/2025 (51.8%, Whiskyland, Decadent Drinks, refill hogshead, 158 bottles)
This baby will no doubt be less bitter than its sparring partner of the day. Colour: gold. Nose: we do find some elements of the younger one, notably that paraffin and liquid wax profile, but here it’s taken on a near-fractal tertiary development, veering towards flowers, apples and greengages, rounded out with walnut oil, peanut oil and sesame. It’s absolutely lovely. With water: freshly cut hay in the middle of August. Mouth (neat): utterly splendid, beautifully old-school, with those same bitters again but now softened and more delicate, along with heaps of citrus zest, some rather serious green tea, and the sensation of biting into a beeswax candle. What’s most spectacular is the overall balance. With water: and the hay returns. Our neighbours in the Vosges make hay wine and I must say, it can be really good, especially when said hay contained a good number of various flowers. Finish: long, narrowing onto the bitters and waxes, which is perfectly normal. Overripe apple peeks through on the aftertaste. Comments: the best Cragganmore of the year so far (that’s clever, S.) You can tell it’s an old malt whisky, yet it has none of the usual drawbacks—no dryness, no overt tannins, no cardboardy bits… in short, none of that here, which is rather surprising. A slight cerebral touch all the same. I adore it.
SGP:461 - 91 points. |
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January 8, 2026 |
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Little Duos,
today indie Glen Ord |
I feel Glen Ord is a distillery unfairly overlooked by enthusiasts. It is one of the greatest malts in the world, and that’s without even mentioning the adjoining maltings and their impact on the flavour profiles of many a modern whisky. |
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Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2024 ‘100 proof Edition 22’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill bourbon barrel)
Colour: white wine. Nose: Ord, that’s apples and wax in near-perfect proportions, almost Da Vinci-esque, and you do feel it here, with utter austerity, a touch of chalk, and a kind of intellectual honesty that reminds us that indeed, distilleries are human too(what?). With water: freshly cut grass, fruit peelings, green pepper and crêpe batter. Mouth (neat): total perfection, though in a very simple and rustic mode. In short, there’s green apple galore and not much else for now. The simplest expression of a flawless malt whisky. With water: same again, with just a drop of barley syrup. Finish: long, grassy, herbaceous, fatty, with cactus. Comments: this is completely love and hate. I really don’t know what to add. In truth it’s Freudian, not easy, and on the palate it leads us to question ourselves. So be it.
SGP:361 - 83 points. |
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Glen Ord 16 yo 2008/2024 (53.7%, Artful Dodger, bourbon hogshead, cask #305072, 295 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this is very close in style, showcasing the glories of refill wood, it’s austere, grassy, with cider apples, barley sugar, candied sugar, even a little limoncello. With water: bread dough, flour, fern... Mouth (neat): excellent, taut on herbs and leafy things, with tart apples and lime. This sharp edge is rather spectacular. With water: more body, apple compote, porridge. Finish: same, long, austere, vegetal, though smoothed out by a dash of barley syrup. Hints of Williams pear in the aftertaste. Comments: Mother Nature in your glass, without the slightest artifice.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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January 7, 2026 |
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A Speyburn trio
Another distillery we’re very fond of, even if it’s not (yet) totally a blue chip. Here too, we make a point of featuring it regularly on WF. Right, let’s start by getting the inevitable Bordeaux finish out of the way, isn't it in malt whisky the modern-day equivalent of the drum machine in 1980s pop rock?… |
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Speyburn ‘Bordeaux Red Wine Cask’ (40%, OB, Traveller Exclusive, 2025)
Colour: gold. Nose: tomato vine and raspberry yoghurt, plus a bit of new rubber and some M&S chocolate cream. Not terribly pleasant, between us. Mouth: blackcurrant buds, pepper and candied cherries. That faint rubberiness lingers. Finish: not that short, fairly bitter, very much on ultra-young cabernet, green pepper, black pepper, stems and leaves. Comments: it’s likeable and drinkable, but honestly rather tricky. Still, what an idea! Granted, every distillery in Scotland has either done this or flirted with it, but even so… Well, it’s still better than the fairly infamous early 2000s Bowmore Claret, I’ll give you that, and not far off the slightly pitiful Glenmo Margaux Cask Finish from around the same period. The good news is it can only get better from here.
SGP:371 - 65 points. |
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Speyburn 10 yo 2014/2025 ‘Super-Dupper Lemony’ (50%, Elevenses, refill bourbon hogshead, 361 bottles)
We do like the packaging in this range, a welcome change from crystal decanters and mahogany coffrets. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: pear spirit, apple eau-de-vie, vanilla cream and a family-sized bag of Haribo pick’n’mix. Not forgetting the liquorice allsorts... You couldn’t get much younger and fruitier than this. With water: no real change, nor was any needed. Mouth (neat): very much on young barley eau-de-vie, and we do enjoy that kind of thing, even if it’s simple and mainly fruity, especially on lemon and orange sweets. With water: the water adds a bit of complexity, saline touches, lemon grog, even a hint of miso. Finish: fairly long, close to the barley, with some bitter herbs. Comments: one might be tempted not to add water to this wee natural baby, but that would be a mistake.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Speyburn 18 yo (46.5%, Living Souls, first fill bourbon barrel, 2025)
Colour: white wine. Nose: surprising wafts of model glue to start with, neoprene, then fresh kirsch and almond milk, followed by green bananas. Very nice evolution in the glass, rather captivating if you give it a minute or two. Give it five, and it ends up as a charming fruit salad. Mouth: interesting palate from a cask that wasn’t overly active, though clearly given plenty of time, allowing a whole array of smaller descriptors to emerge—tiny berries (rowan, elder, service tree, holly eaux-de-vie) and little cider apples. The whole is wrapped in a touch of honey and barley syrup. Finish: long, lovely, more lemony, greener, with curious notes of edible flowers—pansies, borage… Bitterness builds in the aftertaste. Comments: seems rather rustic at first but if you let it unfold, it repays you well, only the slightly bitter aftertaste is a touch more challenging.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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January 6, 2026 |
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Little Duos,
two official Jura |
Jura is another distillery we absolutely don’t want to give up on. Even if the current releases aren’t exactly mind-blowing — especially with some of those odd casks — there have been some that were pure magic. If you don’t believe me, have a look at this old session from November 2012: . Right, we can assume the next two drams won’t quite be of the same calibre… |
The author at Jura with the manager at the time,
Mickey Heads, a long time ago, before he crossed
the Sound of Islay to take over at Ardbeg. |
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Jura 14 yo (40%, OB, American Rye Cask, 2025) We’re not quite sure what the point of such a finish might be, other than rye being somewhat fashionable these days. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s simple, not very bready, not very rye-forward, but balanced, gentle, with acacia honey and shortbread. No complaints at this stage. Mouth: light, slightly marked by oak, black tea, then a hint of wholegrain mustard, possibly rye-related. A few wisps of tobacco that seem to have escaped from an unfiltered cigarette (as far as I can remember). The strength holds up well enough for something bottled at minimum ABV. Finish: not very long, but with faint touches of lemon and salt, plus a dash of cinnamon. Comments: frankly, this is well done. SGP:451 - 80 points. |
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Jura 16 yo (43%, OB, bourbon barrel, travel retail, 2025) We had found the recent 16 yo ‘Perspective No.01’ really very good, though that one was bottled at 46.5% (WF 86). Here we’re more in travel retail territory, the kind aimed at the idle traveller. Colour: full gold. Nose: very honeyed, very much on orange cake, then sultanas and apricot jam, before a little wax and even polish show up, along with faint touches of wood smoke. All very very pretty, it must be said. Mouth: not that far off the 14-year-old, really, just a little punchier, with that same slight mustardy note reminiscent of Fettercairn, followed by hints of beer bitterness and even lemongrass. It’s really lovely in fact, with a fair bit of character. Finish: fairly long, slightly oily, with black tea and green pepper, all backed by lemon. Comments: we dare not imagine what this might have been like at 46% vol. Or rather yes, we dare… SGP:552 - 86 points. |
Check the index of all Jura we've tasted |
A PDF for posterity – and for the number crunchers
One last thing before we officially close the book on last year: we’ve put together a quick and dirty ranking of the number of tastings logged on WF from the very beginning up to 31 December 2025, broken down by distillery – starting with Caol Ila and its 903 tasting notes to date. By the way, we expect to hit the 1,000 Caol Ila mark by the end of this year or the beginning of next. Expect forty new ones very, very soon.
In total, that makes 28,615 tasting notes.
Whiskyfun-Tastings-2002-2025.pdf |
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January 5, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
two rare vintage Port Ellens of very high strength |
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| Cask filling at Port Ellen, mid-1970s (Diageo) |
I was just thinking the other day that we didn’t even taste any Port Ellen over the holidays — which is really quite unusual. Especially considering that one of them, the official 42-year-old released for the 200th Anniversary, was our favourite new whisky of last year. To make up for it, we’re going to select two older, yet still relatively young versions — rather rare ones, and above all, from vintages that are quite uncommon. |
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Port Ellen 17 yo 1980/1997 (61.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)
We know full well that the very pale whiskies from this ‘small cream label’ series were often perilously close to kerosene, albeit a kerosene of immense charm, letting the distillate take centre stage while pushing any notion of oak neatly aside, which rather contrasts with what most contemporary Scottish brands tend to do these days, does it not. Anyway, let us buckle up… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: frankly, it really does smell like kerosene, or like the tarmac at a provincial airport in the middle of the summer holidays. But the fact remains that, gradually, everything becomes both oilier and softer, with almond milk, damp cardboard, hair lacquer, a few touches of tar and cabbage forming quite the duo, plus just a few drops of lime juice. Yet all of it remains impressively austere for the time being. With water: hardly changes, save for a hint of Woolite and the floor of an old petrol station. Mouth (neat): an explosion of salt and tarry cardboard, quite incredible. Even the saltiest Taliskers are not as salty as this. Quick, some water… With water: still vast quantities of salt. We're not talking ‘salinity’ or ‘minerality’ here, but rather proper sodium chloride, even potassium salt. Mad stuff. Finish: virtually eternal, and still massively salty. Comments: people often talk about seawater, but this one really does make you feel as though you're drinking it. Extremely hard to score—there’s something downright philosophical about this incredible malt.
SGP:267 - 89 points. |
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Port Ellen 15 yo 1977 (63.6%, Sestante, +/-1992)
One rather fears the worst given the bottling strength. Just kidding a little, though not too much… Some of the 1977s from similar sources were notoriously tricky to handle, even bordering on unpleasant. Colour: gold. Nose: no, not at all, it’s almost as gentle as a lamb compared to Cadenhead’s salt bomb, despite the lofty strength, with those splendid notes of bitter almond and earthy tar that scream ‘PE’, and above all, that gentian mingled with liquorice. With water: magnificent, very precise, very PE, very ‘Rare Malts’, with more brine, tar, coal ash and gherkins. Mouth (neat): it’s beautiful, very clean, very peppery, quite a bit on hydrocarbons and even salt, but once again, it comes across almost polite after the 1980 of doom. With water: the cavalry is unleashed—samphires, oysters, petrol, seaweed, olives, salmiak, lime, and still loads of tar. Truth be told, Port Ellen without tar would be Glenkinchie (utter nonsense, S). Finish: long, lively, saltier once more, yet magnificently rooty too, with the gentian and black olives charging back in. The peppers fire back in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s obviously superb, a proper beast of a dram.
SGP:367 - 92 points. |
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