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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé!
   
   
 

November 28, 2020


Whiskyfun

 

 

 

Angus's Corner
From our Scottish correspondent
and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Edinburgh
Angus  
Triple Talisker
Does anyone not love Talisker? Not sure I can recall ever meeting someone who wasn’t fond of this brilliant make. Now, I admit the recent years have seen some pretty unlikely - and often underwhelming - NAS expressions kicking about, but the 10 remains an essential whisky I would say. I don’t have any contemporary examples of the 10 today, but I do have one of the very early green glass bottlings from the late 1980s just after the launch of the Classic Malts. We’ll do that with a couple of other theoretically pretty serious official sparring partners.

 

Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, -/+ 1988)

Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, -/+ 1988)
These batches, in my experience, are often softer and more overtly fruity in profile - something that can be said about most of Scotland’s historically peated single malts. Colour: gold. Nose: what’s notable at first is some old bottle effect (OBE), which is a rather harsh reminder of how old these bottlings are now. Metal polish, shoe polish, coal smoke, damp grains and then - with patience - comes some green banana, mango and crystallised lemon peel. Still a very present coastal impression behind all that, something I think it shares with current batches. Mouth: superb arrival. All on olive oils, tropical fruit juices, seawater, ink, green Chartreuse, boiled lime sweets, camphor, black pepper and copper coins (that OBE again). It’s heartening that this Talisker ‘salt n pepper’ aspect is already very vivid in this early batch. Finish: good length, getting rather drying, grapefruit piths, smoked sea salt, oysters, green olives and hessian. Comments: Other batches were brighter and more luminously fruity in my experience. I think these wee notes of OBE have obfuscated certain key characteristics here, other bottlings are comfortably 91 points territory. Having said that, it’s still a brilliant drop, just maybe for your tumbler rather than your copita…?
SGP: 465 - 88 points.

 

 

Talisker 18 yo (45.8%, OB, -/+ 2010)

Talisker 18 yo (45.8%, OB, -/+ 2010)
I think these earlier batches of the Talisker 18 are still a little underrated if you ask me, mind you, I haven’t tried that many of them. Colour: gold. Nose: indeed, this is beautiful. Extremely coastal with these very fragrant notes of wet rocks, chalk, gorse, seawater, grapefruit and citrus peels. But there’s also a richness and depth which belies the age. Wee notes of salted honey, aged mead, some very gentle, peppery peat smoke and even tinier hints of camphor, tar and hessian. I find it totally superb. Mouth: wonderful arrival! All on tarry peat smoke, black pepper, bandages, brine, smoked olive oil, umami and green peppercorns in brine. Again this sense of maturity, richness and, well, sheer class - kind of like Talisker’s version of Lagavulin 16. Gets increasingly salty and develops this blustery, Atlantic freshness and sharp minerality. Finish: good length, peppery, oily, peaty, salty and with some ashes, white pepper and lemon juice. Comments: Like I said, underrated. Although, is that just me? Is there a quiet legion on Talisker 18 fans out there? Anyway, not too sure the current batches are up to this kind of scratch.
SGP: 466 - 90 points.

 

 

Talisker 15 yo 2002/2019 (57.3%, OB ‘Special Releases’, charred American oak hogsheads)

Talisker 15 yo 2002/2019 (57.3%, OB ‘Special Releases’, charred American oak hogsheads)
I’m a bit late with this one, the Special Releases don’t seem nearly as special these days if you ask me, but this one certainly peaked my curiosity when it came out. Colour: light gold. Nose: compared to the 18 there’s certainly more active oak here with these rather creamy and bright notes of smoked vanilla, then green pepper, tar, hessian, pickling juices, seawater and grapefruit. Gets more ‘Talisker’ with time, which is obviously great. Sharper, more precisely saline, brinier and coastal. With water: lemon peel, fabrics, bath salts, white flowers, crushed seashells, gorse flower and even some pollens. Mouth: punchy and brusquely peppery on arrival. Sweet tarriness, pink sea salt, lime juice, anchovy paste, bonfire embers, cider apple, ink -  lots going on. With water: doubles down on these pickling juice notes with many shades of olive and capers in brine. A dirty martini, anchovies, sardines in olive oil, parsley and watercress. Finish: long, salty, drying, some brittle minerals, seawater, lemon juice, dried seaweed - pin sharp, precise and very pure and fresh. Comments: Extremely good with high levels of complexity and a very captivating evolution from nose to finish. It perhaps just lacks a little something ‘extra’ to get it over the 90 line. However, I think the price for this one was (and remains) pretty fair and the quality is very high. Raw, gutsy Talisker - I love it.
SGP: 366 - 89 points.

 

 

 

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