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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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November 19, 2020 |
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Angus's Corner
From our Scottish correspondent
and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Edinburgh |
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Three Glenallachie |
Glenallathree? No, of course not. I’m very sorry. Anyway, there’s quite a lot of Glenallachie hitting the virtual shelves these days since Billy Walker and his team purchased it, which is always something to be celebrated from any formerly ‘quiet’ distillery in my view (who said ‘apart from Speyburn!’) Anyway, there’s a new official cask strength 21 year old out, so let’s have that along with a suitable aperitif and sparring partner. |
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Glenallachie 10 yo ‘Batch 3’ (49.9%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, 2483 bottles)
Another of these wee humble, age-stated youngsters that Boutique-y seem to do pretty effortlessly these days. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely! An immediate warmth of gingerbread, butterscotch, toffee apple, wee touches of hessian and apple crumble with custard. Some golden syrup, sultanas and milk chocolate. A wonderfully easy-going and rather bright sherry profile. Mouth: toasted Brazil nuts, walnuts, a few herbal ointments, more praline and milk chocolate and also some leathery and earthy touches. More robust spiciness, like the hot end of a full bodied cigar. Finish: medium, warm and generously spicy with nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. Some more earthy and bitter chocolate notes now. Comments: Simple, bright, clean and fresh. An extremely classical ‘sherried Speyside’ style I would say. The kind of dram that would pacify an army of willing grandmothers and uncles over the festive season.
SGP: 561 - 86 points. |
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Glenallachie 21 yo Cask Strength ‘Batch 1’ (51.4%, OB, PX sherry, 1600 bottles)
A marriage of five PX sherry puncheons and hogsheads from 1997 and 1998 respectively. Colour: amber. Nose: soft at first, leaf mulch, lemon polenta cake, old madeira, fir wood sap and hardwood resins. Indeed, it maintains this rather lofty and fragrant profile that encompasses sandalwood, dried herbs, bergamot, espresso and over time some rather dense notes of bitter orange marmalade. Clean, rich and rather complex. With water: many more orange notes emerge. Mandarin, crystallised orange, orange tea etc… there’s also some attractively savoury earthy and umami notes as well. Mouth: dark fruits, wood saps, pine resins, dried herbs, hops - even cannabis resin! Then dried mint, eucalyptus bark, tea tree oils, cheng pi, miso and some pretty earthy aged Pu erh tea. Rather a lot of bitter herbal extracts, cloves and walnut oil now. With water: brown bread spread with treacle, toasted walnuts, Irish coffee, bitter lemon and more of these nicely punchy herbal bitters. Finish: good length, peppery, earthy, just the right side of bitter and with more roots, herbs, tobacco, bitter chocolate and marmalade. Comments: Great stuff, as expected. Feels like proper, old school PX sherry maturation with these many, deeper, well-integrated complexities on display. Although, the overall impression is of effortless, charming and sophisticated old sherried malt whisky. Only a little too much bitterness on the palate keeps it from 90 in my book.
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
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Glenallachie 24 yo 1995/2020 (56.5%, The Whisky Cellar, cask #10, hogshead, 227 bottles)
Probably a bit of a change of pace from the full term sherry heft of the OB. Colour: gold. Nose: peaches, nectarines, flower honey, rich tea biscuits and various slightly sharp garden fruits on the greener side of ripeness. Some dandelions and pollens too. Once again, the word that seems to come to mind with all these Glenallachies, is ‘charming’. With water: opens beautifully, lots more flowers, honeys, pollens, light earthy touches, moss, potting sheds and case water. Mouth: spiced mead, runny honey over breakfast cereals, citrus piths, bitter herbs, wood resins, olive oil and more yellow flowers and pollens. There’s a rather taut, prickly spiciness and camphor. With water: cinnamon pastries, heather ales, flower honey, mint tea, ginger biscuits and a little peppery bite from the wood. Finish: quite long, surprisingly spicy, drying, pressed flowers, more pollens, bouillon, heather, darjeeling tea and more biscuity notes. Comments: What’s interesting is that it doesn’t just taste like ‘Glen Speyside’, which is a category many modern Speysiders fall into in my book. There’s certainly a sense of personality here with all these floral and spicy interplays. Although, I’d say water is pretty essential here.
SGP: 661 - 87 points. |
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