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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 2, 2020 |
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Special Releases Special,
today Dalwhinnie |
There are very few new expressions of Dalwhinnie around, but it seems that owners Diageo are pretty fond of the make as they seem to insert it into any special series they’re doing, such as their Game of Thrones series, the newish Prima & Ultima and, indeed, these new Special Releases. We shan’t complain, it’s a very fine drop that should never be overlooked. And the location is glorious too… |
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Dalwhinnie 15 yo (43%, OB, +/-2019) 
I have to say I’ve found recent batches a tad weaker, but I suppose everyone slows down from time to time. Shall we find a malty honeyness? Colour: straw. Nose: I find it even more spirity than last time, a little rough, feeling much younger than 15 at first. But things tend to improve, with old books chiming in, honey indeed, cupcakes, chamomile tea, perhaps a little chocolate, a wee touch of wood smoke, fresh brioche… That’s right, it’s pretty brioche-y, which reminds me of queen Marie-Antoinette (The people have no bread? Let them eat brioche!) Mouth: once again it starts rough, even rather gritty and dusty. Let’s not rush it… Good, these slightly cardboardy notes wouldn’t go away, while the background is rather on ale and grist/flour. I seem to remember Dalwhinnie 15 was much richer and rounder… twenty years ago. Finish: medium, with a bitter side. Bread, leather, bitter ale… Comments: perhaps a little tough and rustic, doesn’t really feel fifteen. Oh and so, is it a Speyside or is it not a Speyside?
SGP:361 - 80 points. |
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Dalwhinnie 30 yo 1989/2020 (51.9%, OB, Special Releases 2020, refill hogsheads) 
There’s a lovely hare on the label but I can’t see any tortoise… Colour: white wine/straw. Very pale given its age, this should be distillate-driven. Nose: oh what a difference fifteen years make, this is so lively, complex, elegant, refreshing and full of fruits. Rhubarb and citrons, I would say, perhaps greengages, a tiny touch of nail polish that goes extremely well with this style, a little chalk, a drop of ink, a spoonful of muesli… I find this perfect, really. There already was a superb 1989 in the SRs back in 2015, this one may go one step forward. With water: oh this subtle smoke (Mum’s cigarette), panettone in the oven, praline, almond croissants, this very small touch of engine oil... Brilliant nose, so subtle… Mouth (neat): fantastic, a little mentholy and branche-y or rooty, with a perfect tension, a chalkiness, some citrons and grapefruits, and a wee bit of green pear. Totally perfect when unreduced, not even sure it would need water. But I’m supposed to be some kind of whisky blogger, so… With water: menthol up, almonds, marzipan, bits of plasticine, citrons again, lemon zests… The tension builds up, this is perfect. Finish: medium, even a tad short, but complex and elegant, on, say lemon-flavoured amaretti. Comments: very very smart and very very good, without any unnecessary cask ‘stuff’ in the way. Have to check the price…
SGP:462 - 91 points. |
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