Cheap, rare, and super-rare Lowland


April 15, 2020

The Confined Sessions
Cheap, rare, and
super-rare Lowland

Pretty happy with the little Longrow vs. Ledaig vs. Brora session we did the other day (not sure we'll publish that one first having said that), so maybe could we try something a bit similar today? Why not three little Lowlanders that have got strictly nothing to do together, except for the fact that they’re, well, Lowlanders? So I propose something very common and pretty modern, then something rarer but not extremely old, and lastly, a genuine antique malt from the south of Scotchland? That should be doable…

Auchentoshan ‘American Oak’ (40%, OB, +/-2019)

No age statement here, and a minimal strength, let’s say this is the aperitif. They say this is ex-first fill American oak, but there’s also a ‘Virgin Oak’ version so I suppose this is actually first fill bourbon wood. Not too sure, 99% of all wood that’s used for Scotch is American oak anyway, including the vast majority of the sherry casks. Colour: straw. Nose: fine, fresh, a notch citric, and otherwise pretty much on vanilla. Granny Smith, custard, Fanta Lemon, Thai basil and a little cardamom. No complains at this point. Mouth: a tad oaky, almost plankish at first, going towards lemon skin and limoncello after twenty seconds, with a wee sugary feel and something of some very young cognac V.S. Bush peaches, perhaps? Finish: short, a tad tea-ish. Sawdust and sugar, something of Bacardi. Touch of cardboard. Comments: not a disaster, this is honest malt whisky (I like it better than the Virgin Oak), but don’t expect any profoundness.
SGP:551 - 75 points.

Inverleven 30 yo 1989/2019 (47.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #20.25, refill bourbon barrel, ‘My God, it's full of stars!’ 128 bottles)

Inverleven 30 yo 1989/2019 (47.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #20.25, refill bourbon barrel, ‘My God, it's full of stars!’ 128 bottles)
Oh the name! Feels like they’ve had a peyotl experience at the honourable SMWS. You say that was psilo? Anyway, I suppose you know Inverleven’s story, built within Dumbarton, it was mothballed in 1992, stills shipped to Bruichladdich then to Waterford in Ireland, and becoming pretty rare these days… Yeah that was the shortest possible version. Colour: gold. Nose: starts with loads of varnishes of all kinds! Ouch! Gears towards UHU glue, then all those painty smells would fade away, and enter coconut water, custard, papaya juice and rhubarb. In my little book rhubarb can be pretty close to varnish. Many jelly babies arriving later on, together with orange blossom and peach leaf tea. Don’t rush it, it would never stop improving. Mouth: pure citrus juice, rather towards grapefruits, then passion fruits, raw rhubarb again, sherbet (or colonel, that’s vodka and lemon sherbet), all that before it would kind of move to Jamaica, with totally unexpected notes of high-ester rum (Hampden anyone?) Finish: long, really very unusual, with the varnish and the esters kind of mingling together. Very unusual indeed. Comments: to be honest I first though it was flawed, and then thought the coconut was a bad signal, but the second part really delivered. It sure is a little odd, but between us, with a name like that…
SGP:662 - 88 points.

And so we said we’d have an old one. A really old one…

Rosebank 1938 (70°proof, Robert Stewart & Son, 26 2/3 Fl. Ozs, 1960s)

Rosebank 1938 (70°proof, Robert Stewart & Son, 26 2/3 Fl. Ozs, 1960s)
A wonderful and rather rare bottle that made a much noticed appearance at the Whisky Show Old & Rare in London, I believe the last international whisky event that took place before we were all locked down. Perhaps proof that whisky does make for a good protection, since I haven’t heard about anyone having been hit by the virus. One can always hope. Unless I haven’t been paying attention… Colour: pale gold. Nose: as always with these old bottles, you cannot not wonder if they couldn’t be fakes (forged bottles, refills…) but the noses will give it away: this is just a beautiful old malt, with what whiskies were having at that time, that is to say more fatness, more smoke, and a broader spectrum of aromas, especially meaty and earthy ones. Old limoncello (very Rosebank), cured ham, dunnage, cough syrup, Vicks, a drop of chicken bouillon, another one of miso, whiffs of long-forgotten toolbox, engine grease… And of course menthol. There’s almost always a little menthol in these old malts. Having said that, it remains a Lowlander, with a kind of wonderful fresh lightness powered by citrus. Mouth: perhaps has it got a little more fragile over the years, but it hasn’t lost all its teeth, not at all. Thai soup (coriander, basil, lemon, coconut) and citrons, an earthy touch, a pinch of chalk, and just a little tea. It’s pretty important to quaff it quick, as it tends to lose its oomph in the open. Finish: short, but still okay. Notes of old mead. Comments: a moving old malt to nose deeply, and to down fastly, as they say in D.C.
SGP:441 - 85 points.

(Many thanks Bihan)