
October 13, 2020

A brand new Craigellachie 49 year old

There is a rather incredible new Craigellachie 49 years old from Gordon & MacPhail’s, exclusive to LMDW, which we shall try while hoping it won’t have gotten too woody at this ripe old age. But first, a wee sparring partner from the official stable, a newer batch of the 17 yo…

Craigellachie 17 yo (46%, OB, +/-2019)

We’ve first tried this baby when it came out, in 2014, and rather liked that first batch (WF 84) but we haven’t heard much from the owners since back then. I really hope it wasn’t a damp squib and that they’re doing as well as possible. Colour: gold. Nose: rather firm, on a good balance between bananas, citrons, shortbread, vanilla and ripe kiwis. Does the job, it’s just not very identifiable, as many distilleries are now issuing this kind of malt whisky. Homogenisation through the use of active barrels, anyone? Mouth: same feelings, it’s good, with even a little fatness, nice citrus, good wood, notes of melons, sponge cakes, a wee rooty side, a little pepper and ginger form the wood… But we’re really in the middle of the road. Finish: medium, maltier, with touches of ale, butterscotch… Comments: technically perfect, but perhaps not totally entrancing. It was Aultmore, wasn’t it? No wait, Strathmill? Benriach? My memory seems to fail me… Now I’ll need to try the 23 again, that one had been utterly brilliant when they launched it (WF 91).
SGP:551 - 82 points.

And so this new old Craigellachie that should have been introduced to the thirsty masses at Whisky Live Paris 2020… Take heart, Paris!

Craigellachie 49 yo 1970/2019 (48.6%, Gordon & MacPhail, Esclusive, Archive Release, cask #1608)
Colour: amber. Nose: yes there is a G&M style. Does that come from the wood they’ve been filling? From Elgin’s atmosphere? What’s sure is that this little Craig’ is well in line with t he house’s emblematic Longmorns, Glenlivets or Glen Grants, that is to say rather shock-full of beehive-y notes, old varnishes, precious woods, and those raisins that are just not too raisiny. I know what I’m trying to say. Heather honey, beeswax, pipe tobacco, pollens, preserved plums, and lastly, a little fresh cranberry juice, which is surprising but rather lovely. Oh, and a little propolis (pine or birch saps). Oh, and small Turkish dried figs. Oh, and dates filled with marzipan. Oh, and very old Sauternes. Now, the devil always is on the palate, so let’s just see how it goes… Mouth: a little beeswax and citrus at first, then some big oak for sure, but that translates into many saps, resins, and a feeling of quaffing very old bottles of Jägermeister. That propolis again (you can have it diluted in ethanol to heal your throat and bronchi) and some bitterish vegetables, rucola (rocket), sucking pine needles, quaffing cough syrup, and crunching coffee beans. That’s all extremely dry, as this baby digested all its fruits and sweetnesses, but since it rather went towards saps than straight tannins, it’s still full of charms. Finish: medium, very dry, sappy and resinous. Bits of raw cocoa and more coffee beans. Comments: there’s been a 1970/2016 G&M Exclusive for LMDW that had been fruitier and that I liked really a lot (WF 91), while this one is a little oakier but still of super-high level, provided you like your saps as much as I do.
SGP:362 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Craigellachie we've tasted so far