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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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September 6, 2019 |
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Three indie Deanston and one |
Less Ardbeg, more Deanston, that’s the shape of independent whiskydom these days. Having said that, I’m not sure I’ve heard anyone complaining… And I’m glad to be able to do another proper Deanston session! Let’s see what we have… |
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Deanston 10 yo 2009/2019 ‘One Giant Leap’ (61.6%, The Whisky Barrel, 1st fill PX sherry hogshead, cask #WB1003, 276 bottles) 
Tremble, mere mortal! As for that Giant Leap, that’s to commemorate John Coltrane’s famous album and… wait, no that was Giant Steps. This baby would rather commemorate, well you know what. Yes we’re late, as usual. Colour: office coffee. Nose: it’s a bit strong you see, so I don’t get much beyond some hot raisins and perhaps a little raspberry jam. With water: some moss, roasted chestnuts, peonies, overripe red berries, and touches of green oak plus some sponge cake. A little rough, but pleasant. Mouth (neat): this is almost prune juice, as far as both texture and flavours are concerned. Also the usual eau-de-vie notes, as almost always in very young cask strength whiskies. With water: tastes more or less like the ‘sherry’ that comes out of seasoning casks. Raisins, grass, walnut liqueur, green ginger… Finish: rather long and very thick, somewhat in the style of those heavily doctored rums, Zacapa, Diplomatico and so on. Except that this whisky is grassier and bitterer. Comments: really not my favourite style, and perhaps not One Giant Leap for Scotch whisky, but I know some friends would love it. Really a matter of taste.
SGP: 661- 80 points. |
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Deanston 10 yo 2008/2018 (56.2%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 576 bottles) 
From two hogsheads, most certainly refill according to the colour. This could be a little difficult… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: raw, mineral, chalky, waxy, a little metallic, on green apples as far as fruits are concerned. Mashed potatoes and turnips. With water: sand, porridge, damp oatcakes. Mouth (neat): kirsch and plum spirit, with a dollop of limoncello. Barley sugar. With water: similar. Not that it wouldn’t swim, it’s just that that wouldn’t change much. Notes of sugar. Finish: rather long and a little grassier. Nicer notes of pink grapefruits in the aftertaste. Comments: I suppose you need a few stepping stones in a great range. Not a malt whisky that I’ll remember forever and ever.
SGP:351 - 78 points. |
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Deanston 19 yo 1999/2018 (51.3%, Whisky-Doris, bourbon hogshead, cask #2560, 136 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: pristine, well-matured this time, not too complex, rather on fruit tartes and cakes, plums, plus green tea and notes of fresh marzipan. Really, it’s niiice. With water: sliced button mushrooms, celeriac, gentian roots. Mouth (neat): funny notes of vegetables. Beans? Carrots? Carrot cake for sure, also lemons and grapefruits, on a rather thick structure. Touches of burnt caramel and chicory coffee. My favourite brand is Leroux. With water: back to barley and porridge, plus lemon. Some kind of slightly earthy dough. Finish: medium, good, rather malty. A little white pepper. Comments: beats the youngsters fair and square.
SGP:451 - 84 points. |
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Deanston 21 yo 1995/2016 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask, hogshead, cask #12816, 263 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: a tad more mature, perhaps, and a little more floral and on grasses and herbs, otherwise pretty similar. Mashed potatoes with a good deal of butter (Robuchon style, 50% potatoes, 50% butter), plus whiffs of liquorice wood and broken branches. With water: fresh butter and perhaps bamboo shoots. Mouth (neat): sweeter, richer, more on topical fruits. Plantains, bananas, papayas, some honey, some white pepper, touches of caraway, praline, more honey or rather mead… This is pretty excellent. With water: indeed, and it swims well, becoming more citrusy. Szechuan pepper, kumquats, orange blossom honey… Finish: medium and even more citrusy. That always works. More pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: one of the best recent Deanstons, in my opinion. And it’s totally ‘clean’ and un-tampered with!
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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