
May 2, 2019

Three ex-refill sherry Coleburn

Frankly, I’d have never thought we could do another Coleburn session, especially not one that would involve a brand new bottling. Some proper whisky buffs may remember Coleburn Distillery used to belong to Clynelish (yes) before Scottish Malt Distillers would start to take care of both, on behalf of the mighty DCL (always use ‘mighty’ when quoting the DCL). Coleburn was closed in 1985 but I don’t think I’ve ever tried one that was distilled in 1984 or 1985.

Coleburn circa 1934
(D.C.L. Gazette, Diageo Archives)

Coleburn 1981/2008 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, refill sherry hogshead)

Some 1965 under the old brown banner label had been very good in my book, but a 1972 under the ‘new map label’ was rather more unlikely (which my compadres the MMs had agreed upon). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s got this very rieslingesque profile that we’ve seen before, with bags of lemons, limestone, and bitter herbs or cactus, as well as some shoe polish. Alternatively, you could believe it’s some very tense Pouilly-Fumé. Very unmodern, and naturally, very lovely (as a consequence). No vulgar oak or wine in sight. Mouth: sure the lower strength is a tad problematic, but the same-ish sauvignony profile works just beautifully. Citrus peel, wax (did they borrow Clynelish’s cast iron receiver?) and something such as rhubarb juice. Lime, green pepper, and no sherry. Probably re-re-refill… Finish: not too long, but dry, waxy (shoe polish), citrusy and very grassy, almost bitter towards the aftertaste. Comments: some old style fat and grassy make, certainly not for our sweeter times - and for modern palates, although I agree that’s a little discriminatory.
SGP:362 - 88 points.

More moderate refill sherry please…

Coleburn 25 yo 1980/2005 (50%, Douglas Laing, Old Malt Cask, refill butt, cask #2128, 661 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: this is the G&M CC at the power of two. More mineral wax, brake fluid, huge paraffin, lemon skin, also some mashed potatoes, or rather turnips, or even carrots… Then a little smoky humus and dried mushrooms. Say porcinis. Some dill and fennel too. With water: a little medicinal, and kind of muddy. A country doctor’s old Land Rover (ha-ha) and a handful of grist. Mouth (neat): a lovely almost pastis-like arrival, very tense yet again, then a development rather on absinth and even chartreuse. Also lime juice, grass, and wax. Impeccably dry. With water: reminds you that you’ve got a spine, with a kind of very grassy acidity that’s not often to be encountered in malt whisky. Certainly not in modern malt whisky. Bone-dry petroly riesling. Finish: long, very dry, bitter, acidic and grassy. Count your vertebras. Comments: one green baby!
SGP:372 - 89 points.

And the new one…

Coleburn 38 yo 1981/2019 (55.9%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill sherry hogshead, cask #476, 101 bottles)

This one comes in a beautiful Gatsby-y decanter. Hope it’s not gotten too woody… Colour: bronze gold. When spirits got bronze-ish, or even greenish, that sometimes suggests some nails or patches have been in use. Or that a copper dog fell into the cask ;-). Nose: it’s different, less bright than the younger ones, but also more complex, with beautiful whiffs of old walnuts, manzanilla, marmalade, wormwood, caraway, aniseed cookies, and perhaps German all-grain breads. Beyond this very fino-ish character, some tamarind and some pretty umami-esque chen-pi (aged dried tangerine skins). With water: old leather couches and new cigars, plus some crude chocolate. And walnuts, naturally. Mouth (neat): some very spicy, almost curry-like oak at first, loaded with cinnamon and nutmeg. Then walnut skin liqueur (nocino) and some bitter artichoke cordial. Indeed, the oak’s very talkative here, but let’s see what happens once water’s been added. With water: imagine a cocktail made out of ¼ nocino, ¼ grapefruit juice, and ½ manzanilla. Shake well. Good news, the oak remained well-mannered, but indeed it is oaky, you feel it more in your throat. Finish: medium, drying. Cocoa powder, tobacco, mocha ristretto. Comments: perhaps not exactly as glorious as the stupendous old Caol Ila in the same new series, but we keep flying high indeed.
SGP:372 - 89 points.

(molto thanks to Andy and the Burlet Bros.)

Check the index of all Coleburn we've tasted so far