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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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January 22, 2019 |
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Little Duos, today indie Bladnoch |
It’s not too easy to follow (and sometimes understand) what the ‘new’ owners of Bladnoch are doing, and I have to say we’ve seen some odd cask treatments. But thank God, the indies are keeping an eye on things… |
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Bladnoch 26 yo 1992/2018 (49.3%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 246 bottles)
Cadenhead have had an excellent 1992 at 17 yo that we had tried back in 2009 (WF 88). How’s that for a #10yearchallenge? Colour: straw. Nose: it’s rather one of those slightly buttery, almost-feinty-but-not-quite-feinty ones, with quite a lot of chalk arising, as well as some hay and rubbed citrus peel. Gets then more classically fruity, with greengages and gooseberries, and rather less lemons and tangerines than in other Bladnochs. I think. Mouth: there, here they come the tangerines and mandarins, together with their peels and a very distinct leafy/peely grassiness. Some lemon too, a touch of chalk again, herbal teas (well, green tea) and wee touches of gentian, kiwi, melons and gentian liqueur (Avèze, Suze and stuff). Excellent. Finish: rather long, with an utterly perfect balance between citrus, tea leaves, and chalk. Comments: absolutely perfect, and very Bladochian. 1970s-1980s Bladnoch, that is.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Bladnoch 28 yo 1990/2018 (51.2%, North Star Spirits, refill bourbon barrel)
Colour: white wine. Nose: pure fruits this time for a few seconds, then breads and vanilla cake. It is a little slower in action than the CAD but after one good minute, profiles are very similar. Same slightly yeasty touches, then fruit skins, zests, plums, a touch of humus and another one of camphor, some hay… With water: perfect. Stems, agaves, new plasticine, lemons, fresh bread, barley syrup, preserved peaches… Mouth (neat): superb! Astounding mineral fruitiness (or fruity minerality) that would remind us of the greatest chenins from around Savennières. I’d even dare mention La Coulée De Serrant. Luminous lemon and dazzling grapefruit. With water: I was ready to go up to 91 but it would lose one point at this stage, because of a tiny-wee soapiness that remotely reminds me of some 1980s Bowmore. Some distant reminiscences, I would say. Finish: medium, really mostly on citrus peels and oils. Nothing against that. Comments: so if it’s not 91 it’s going to be…
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
It’s been a long time since we last tried such glorious and panache-y Bladnochs! |
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