
August 9, 2019

Little duos, today new Dallas Dhu and sparring-partner

Imagine, G&M have a new Dallas Dhu! There’s always been talks about restarting the distillery, but I’m not sure it’s been done in flesh, has it? I think Dallas Dhu is pretty much the rarest of all distilleries that have been scratched off between the early 1980s and 1990s, and that Port Ellen or Brora are insanely common by comparison. What’s sure is that we have not got any other Dallas Dhu up our sleeves, and that consequently, we’ll have to find another sparring-partner…

Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1969/2019 (43.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill sherry hogshead, cask #1656, 176 bottles)

Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1969/2019 (43.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill sherry hogshead, cask #1656, 176 bottles)
Will this be a better ‘coup’ that that 50 yo Caol Ila that they had a little earlier this year? Or was that last year? Not sure at all, I don’t seem to remember anything utterly thrilling from Dallas Dhu’s, but then again, we’ve only ever tried thirty-seven of them. Let’s make that thirty-eight. Colour: brownish amber. Nose: well, my dear, this is something different again, which is what we’re expecting from those old distilleries anyway. In this case, we’re rather finding old oils and old dried fruits from an old rusty tin box, chiefly raisins and figs. Then old embrocations and mint cordials, puréed chestnuts, and some camphor balm. After a few minutes, it would rather shift towards vegetables, beans, asparagus, stewed spinach, also paraffin and a touch of natural soap… Nice, as new bloggers would say. Love them all! Mouth: it’s a funny baby for sure, pretty proto-meta, in a way. Wood shavings, tar liqueur, pine needles, bitter zests, green pepper, black tea, pan-fried French beans, various woods (most pines and firs), strong teas, cloves, caraway, cinnamon, juniper… Finish: rather long but getting green and a little drying. Looks like the oak started to take over a while back already. Comments: good, this is Dallas Dhu, this is very rare, this is 50 years old, and the wood did not totally drive the spirit off the track. It’s got some emotional and historical value, for sure. But in my book, the new St. Magdalene and Longmorn in the same series are in a whole different league. ‘Conservatory score’.
SGP:371 - 85 points.

So let’s find a sparring-partner… Why not another 1969, to keep some kind of coherence?

Glenfarclas 1969/1991 (52.4%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #1.31)

Glenfarclas 1969/1991 (52.4%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #1.31)
Remember, Glenfarclas was the first distillery to be ever bottled by the SMWS. Obviously, it’s distillery #1. Colour: gold. No freshish sherry, apparently. Nose: ah, glazed apples and marzipan, plus a touch of sunflower oil and chamomile. These unsherried Glenfarclas weren’t very common back then, and neither were the Macs by the way. Goes on with some dandelions, nectar, beeswax, and a pleasant wee sourness. Not-too-ripe greengages? With water: a grassy, waxy and chalky Speysider that would have brought body and structure to many a blend. Mouth (neat): very good, going to show that Glenfarclas is a big, fat, and potent distillate. Oily fruits, grapefruits, citrons, peppery oils (grapeseed, olive)… With water: cracked pepper, paraffin, greens, watermelons, pumpkin purée, grapefruits, and some bread. Always love bread in my whisky. Finish: rather long, fresh, vegetal and citrusy, always with this dry, oily background. Comments: some enthusiasts may have been surprised when presented with this very unusual unsherried Glenfarclas. Liked it a lot.
SGP:461 - 89 points.

(Thank you Angus)