
February 21, 2018

Three unusual indie Springbank

Not a month without Springbank, that is one of Whiskyfun’s mottos. I have to say that quite a few years ago, I used to believe that the distillery’s heydays were over, and that no newer bottling could ever match the older Local Barleys, or the old regular 10, 12 or 21s, or, of course, the West Highland Malts. Especially because of some pretty appalling sulphury bottlings, or because of the first very unlikely wine casks… And then, around eight or ten years ago, things started to get much, much, and I mean much better, and Springbank became one of the very few ‘Grands Crus of Scotland’ again in my book. But enough small talk, let’s move from words to action if you don’t mind…

Springbank 17 yo 2000/2017 (41.6%, Wiskybroker for Port of Holmsund, Demerara refill cask, cask #630, 196 bottles)

A private bottling for a fearless bunch of friends in Holmsund/Umea in Sweden. Apparently, no one can explain the low ABV and what’s more, the cask was not leaking according to some reliable sources. Let’s see… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: imagine some fresh apple juice blended with some seawater, a brew to which you’d have then added quite some crushed chalk, drops of ink, a hint of carbolinium, and a little ski wax to improve this baby’s gliding properties once you’ll have it past your gullet. It’s relatively light, but very clean, quite subtle, and certainly not very ‘rummy’, which is just as good even if we all remember Cadenhead’s famously superb green 1973. Mouth: perhaps touches of rum this time, as if the lovely mineral side had been coated with a little cane honey. Just a little! Other than that, it’s well a coastal, rather smoky/Longrowy Springbank, with a little green pepper, shoe polish, brine, and a feeling of coal plus artichokes plus oysters. Please don’t try that at home. Finish: rather long, with more pepper and bitter herbs, always with this waxy quality. Comments: superb, and indeed rather Longrowy. Remember that many Longrows are labelled as ‘Springbank Distillery’ at the indies.
SGP:364 - 89 points.

Springbank 24 yo 1992/2017 (47.1%, The Maltman for The Whisky Foundation, sherry cask, cask #212214, 244 bottles)

The Whisky Foundation is a funny new concept, some kind of auction whereby the buyers make the price, each new buy making the next one more expensive until, I suppose, no one’s buying anymore. So the very first bottle was sold for $1, while at time of writing, the prices have reached $270.42. We’ve heard Dalmore and Macallan are about to do the same with their new 50 yo crystal decanters (we ‘might’ be joking)… Colour: gold. Nose: a completely different style, much more ‘coated’, rounder, nosing a tad sweet (which isn’t bad at all), with whiffs of coconut milk and rose petals, then quinces and mandarins. No smoke this time, rather a perfect, slightly oriental/raisiny fruitiness. In that respect, we aren’t too far from some official Springbanks of old. Mouth: same kind of combination, with some sweet spices, some coconut, baklavas, quince jelly, then notes of menthol tobacco, peppermint (do you know that French liqueur named Get27?) and indeed raisins. This raisin/menthol combo really makes it ‘oriental’. Good body. Finish: medium, on the same notes, plus an even more obvious Springbankness in the background. You know, that waxy side… Comments: Springbank doing the dance of the seven veils. It does it extremely well, I think.
SGP:551 - 89 points.

Springbank 18 yo 1996/2014 (56.3%, The Whisky Barrel, Burns Malt, sherry hogshead, cask #491)

One that I had saved for later days, and indeed those days have come. Colour: dark gold. Nose: believe me or not, this is more or less a blend of the two previous ones. That is to say a rather more mineral and waxy Springbank, coated with some rounder, more raisiny aromas. Leather, mud, tobacco, saltpetre, roasted chestnuts and toasted walnuts, ink, carbon paper, new magazines… You see. With water: rather a pile of old magazines in an old attic. You know, Kennedy shot down, Man on the moon, Vietnam, Jimi Hendrix… Mouth (neat): great rubber and brake fluid and new tyres and struck matches and paraffin and… salty oranges. In short, the Springbankest of them all. With water: there’s a quality limoncello quality to it once you’ve reduced it. A dirtiness as well, but Springbank ought to be a little dirty, in my opinion. Finish: long, with this wonderful wee salty sourness that’s so… idiosyncratic. Comments: whisky for great adventurers, whisky that doesn’t belong in all hands (and palates).
SGP:462 - 90 points.

(Thanks Kjell and Miriam)

Check the index of all Springbank I've tasted so far