
December 28, 2018

Four Auchentoshan

Auchentoshan’s rather a malt we usually enjoy in summer, but with global warming in the way, isn't any time becoming Auchentoshan time?

Auchentoshan ‘The Bartender’s Malt’ (47%, OB, +/-2018)

Auchentoshan ‘The Bartender’s Malt’ (47%, OB, +/-2018)
Doesn’t that name suggest that we should not try this neat? This was blended by bartenders and it contains malts ex-rum casks, ex-red wine (aargh), ex-German oak, ex-bourbon, and ex-Laphroaig. Remember Laphroaig now belongs to the same owners. What a cocktail indeed. Colour: gold. Nose: the oak’s a little loud, with this feeling of entering a cabinetmaker’s workshop. Some pencil shavings, sawdust, tobacco, then rather lemon curd, which is nicer. Not totally IKEA-y, phew. Mouth: it’s good, nicely lemony at first, zesty, creamy, vanilla-ed… But sadly, the oaks tend to take over, which generates this feeling of sucking your pencil. Goes way too far for me. Finish: medium, rather all on wood shavings and cinnamon. Not quite enough citrus to fight back, but the aftertaste is unexpectedly nicer, fruitier, and cleaner. Comments: not as terrifying as I had thought, and the red wine kept quiet. Thank you, red wine.
SGP:561 - 79 points.

Auchentoshan 21 yo 1996/2018 (51.5%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask # 12591, 191 bottles)

This one should be much less oaky. Colour: gold. Nose: indeed, much less oak, rather herbal teas and sour fruits. Hawthorn, guavas, vanilla pods, lime juice, lemon zests, wee whiffs of menthol… It’s rather delicate and subtle, with also notes of sunflower and pumpkin oils. With water: green teas and earthy herbs. I’m reminded of carrot tops. Mouth (neat): very good, rounded, light and yet firmly fruity, with good vanilla and sunflower oil again, perhaps even a touch of grassy olive oil, then all things lemons and grapefruits. With water: going towards marshmallows and coconut balls, which had to happen with Auchentoshan. The earthy side balances all that. Finish: medium, rather on vegetables this time. Rather apple peelings than citrus. Comments: all very good, fresh… Another case of ‘natural’ maturing defeating excessive wood works, fair and square.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Auchentoshan 21 yo 1997/2018 (52.4%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Barrel, refill sherry hogshead, cask #2911, 168 bottles)

Auchentoshan 21 yo 1997/2018 (52.4%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Barrel, refill sherry hogshead, cask #2911, 168 bottles)
A black label? Does that mean something? Colour: amber. Nose: and now for something different… That is to say liquorice, peat (yep, peat), strawberry syrup, rum, blood oranges, pipe tobacco, blackcurrants… That the distillate wouldn’t have much to say in this heavy-ish context is an understatement. With water: ginger tonic and grapefruit peels, plus a few metallic smells. Mouth (neat): very rich, with quite a lot of ginger and a little rubber, plus prunes, molasses, flints and a lot of oloroso-y flavours. Heavy indeed. With water: earth, tar, struck matches, chalk and marmalade… Finish: long, on more ginger tonic, cinchona, liquorice, bitter oranges. Comments: more a fight than malt whisky in my book. Rather good, but I don’t think the boisterous cask has been very cooperative…
SGP:361 - 80 points.

Auchentoshan 27 yo 1990/2017 (53.1%, OB, for CWS China, 1st fill oloroso sherry cask, 512 bottles)

Auchentoshan 27 yo 1990/2017 (53.1%, OB, for CWS China, 1st fill oloroso sherry cask, 512 bottles)
More bottlings for China, that really is a new - and good - thing. Colour: amber. Nose: this time the situation’s under control, with a sherry that’s not too loud, a rubber that’s rather not there, and some rather wonderful notes of bitter oranges. You’re almost wandering throughout a Sevillian orchard! There’s some Swiss milk chocolate too, not the ‘international’ crap that’s full of palm oil and that’s killing the last orangutans. There. With water: pot-pourri and orange blossom, plus a little copper (old coins). Mouth (neat): rather wonderful gingery/orangey sherriness, both heavy and vibrant, with an oily mouthfeel and some lovely notes of Szechuan pepper. Not mentioning that because this is a bottling for China, of course. With water: rather perfect, with even more bitter oranges. Finish: rather long, thick, spicier as usual. White pepper, cloves, and nutmeg from the oak. Comments: a fearless Auchentoshan that spent quite some time in an excellent cask.
SGP:561 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Auchentoshan we've tasted so far