
February 13, 2018

Caol Ila, a sequel session

Right, those very funny Valinch & Mallet ones almost killed us yesterday, while we had more CIs on the tasting table. Now that we’ve recovered, well, let’s have those…

Caol Ila 12 yo (43%, OB, +/- 2017)

Another expression I’m following each and every year. WF 85 for circa 2016. Colour: light gold. Nose: light yet assertive. Olive oil and lemon juice, plus bandages and soft embrocations. I had already noticed, last year, that CI 12 was getting a little more medicinal, and this is confirmation. Whiffs of sour apples, which is very CI as well, in my opinion. Cider. Mouth: it’s becoming really good, and rather more complex, as if the actual age was a little older. Great brine, olive oil, actual olives, and rather less sweetness than previously. A very nice rooty/earthy side as well, I’d almost quote gentian. The holy grail! Finish: rather long, a tad sweeter and rounder again, but nothing excessive. Wee hints of white rhum agricole, perhaps. Comments: everyone should have Laphroaig 10, Ardbeg 10, Bowmore 12, Lagavulin 16, and Caol Ila 12 in the bar. Just talking about the obvious peaters.
SGP:446 - 86 points.

Caol Ila 2006/2017 (60.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Cask Strength, first fill sherry butts, casks #306183, 306184, 306186, 306187)

The price is/was very right! And let’s not forget that the greatest old CIs by some Italian bottlers were actually from G&M’s. In other words, G&M have been totally seminal. Colour: pale gold. Nose: get out of here! Olive oil, lemon juice, mezcal, chalk. Plus crushed anchovies, ink, shoe polish, lime juice, kelp… With water: wow. Low tide on Islay. Mouth (neat): I totally hate this. I hate it profoundly. It’s horrible whisky. With water: a mindboggling simplicity and a supreme elegance (I think you made your point, S.) Finish: tangerines, crabmeat, seawater, roots, and cigar ashes, for a long time. Comments: how could anyone beat this glorious young CI? £50 max a bottle, no cupidity and no greediness to be found in Elgin. Plain panache, G&M. I say no more, or some are going to get suspicious. Now, first fill sherry, really? How could first fill sherry be so timid? Not that I’m complaining, rather the opposite…
SGP:457 - 92 points.

But let’s try to beat that whippersnapper… And try to be quick…

Caol Ila 2005/2017 (56.8%, Gordon & MacPhail, Cask Strength, first fill sherry butts, casks #301522, 301530, 301532)

Colour: pale gold. But where’s the sherry? Nose: extremely fine, but it hasn’t quite got the 2006’s incredible… shall we say mezcalness? This one’s more a classic, it’s even got some bacon, beyond the perfect Caol-Ila-y purity. A young Caol Ila that rather toes the line, in other words. With water: indeed. Everything is in place, there are no flaws whatsoever, but still, the 2006… Mouth (neat): extremely good, pure, sharp, smoky, lemony, briny… Superb, just not quite as entertaining as the 2006. Wow, the 2006! With water: top notch CI, but it’s getting just a little too sweet. Sweetish. Smidgens of sweetness. Finish: same. Comments: very very good, but it was having the death seat after the 2006. I’m deeply sorry, etc., etc., etc.
SGP:546 - 86 points.

I'd rather stop now, with fond memories of the 2006. A future legend, I say, watch the Rare Whisky Glasgow Show 2047 (whatever), it’ll be there, totally triumphant after thirty further years of bottle aging…

Goodnight.

Check the index of all Caol Ila I've tasted so far