
June 14, 2018

A short Strathmill verticale

Strathmill, another name that we weren’t seeing very often at the indies, but now that bluer chips have gotten harder to find, those smaller names are coming to the front of the stage (and perhaps will the current blue chips have become obscure in twenty years time?)

Strathmill 13 yo 2004/2018 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, refill bourbon barrels, 990 bottles)

Strathmill 13 yo 2004/2018 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, refill bourbon barrels, 990 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: grassy and yeasty, this is truly distilled malted barley. Whiffs of gravel, damp chalk, touches of artichoke and cooked asparagus, lawn, green apples, cider… In short, malt whisky without compromise (I mean, vanilla). Mouth: much sweeter and fruitier at first, but the grassy components keep running the show. Grass, peelings, apples, perhaps celeriac, banana skin, grapefruit skin… And always this chalky side. Finish: rather long, with hints of ale this time, beyond all the cider. Funny salty touch in the aftertaste. Comments: a tad unsexy, but totally loyal and ‘as Nature intended’. Now, is Man part of Nature? (oh come on!)
SGP:361 - 82 points.

Strathmill 22 yo 1995/2018 (50.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, refill Port hogshead, 252 bottles)

This baby was transferred into refill Port wood in 2005, so this is double maturation, really. Colour: straw. Nose: the grassy side is well here again, the chalk, the fruit skins, also some aniseed this time, Corinthian raisins, dates… You do feel the Port wine, but that’s pretty pleasant this time, it imparts a feeling of… Spanish brandy? With water: a tiny touch of lavender soap, but also a rather wonderful liquorice. High-liquorice pastis? Mouth (neat): really good, not too Haribo-y, even if you do feel the Port’s sweetness. Rather raisins again than raspberries and whatnot. Good. With water: good. Blood oranges, goji berries… And malt whisky! Finish: medium, a tad cake-y. Blueberry muffins? There… Comments: really fine, doesn’t feel doctored at all, but remember, this is proper double maturation, not a quick finishing.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Strathmill 24 yo 1993/2017 (50.3%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 354 bottles)

This one from two hogsheads this time. Colour: straw. Nose: we’re much closer to the G&M this time, unsurprisingly, with this grassy side, but there’s more custard, dried apricots, melons, also fern and moss… The extra ageing has brought depth and complexity, but of course it’s no extravagant Speysider. With water: moss up! Stirling work (geee, S.!) Mouth (neat): sweets! Melon drops, tangerine, quite a lot of lime and lemon… You’d think this is distilled Chenin blanc. Very different this time. Also chlorophyll. With water: same profile. Should you enjoy your malt a tad citric, this is for you. Finish: long, very zesty, as if you just had a wee glass of limejuice. Comments: a surprise, really. Worth hunting down…
SGP:651 - 86 points.

Strathmill 21 yo 1990/2012 (54.1%, James MacArthur, bourbon wood, cask #101112)

We’re revisiting this one, thanks to a friend. Didn’t like it much a few years back (WF 64) but a lot of water has gone under the bridge since 2013. Colour: straw. Nose: yeah it’s very naked, all rather on sweetened porridge, apple juice, then chalk and clay. What I’m not finding this time is the plastic that was in the one I had tried, so maybe was it cap contamination. Always be extremely careful when using any plastic caps with your samples. Mouth: ah yes it’s fine, clear, fruity, melony and even a little orange-y. Very nice notes of papayas in the background, otherwise bread, brioche and, yes, panettone again. Finish: medium, rather more citrusy. Tangerines and such. Comments: indeed. Ah, plastic and high proofs, always be very careful indeed. No problems when the ‘glue-y’ notes have become obvious, but when they just start to appear, that can trick you. Anyway…
SGP:541 - 84 points.

(Thank you Samuel, you’re the man!)

Check the index of all Strathmill we've tasted so far