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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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April 23, 2018 |
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Another name that’s rather easier to find again these days, thanks to both the indies and the owners of the distillery. Let’s have two or four of them… |
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Aultmore 11 yo 2006/2018 (53.2%, North Star Spirits, refill hogshead, 150 bottles) 
This one’s brand new. Colour: gold. Nose: very nice, with some fudge, cappuccino, shortbread and butterscotch, custard, brioche, Ovaltine… Not much to add, this is modern in the best sense of that word. With water: lovely waxy tones ala Clynelish. More raw barley as well. Mouth (neat): really very good. Lemon liqueur, mocha, panettone, custard, orange blossom, fudge… In short it’s one of those newish Scottish bourbons, with extra-care given to the wood. Again, nothing against that. With water: it is perfect, everything was under control, it’s full and oily, it’s got pastries and just a few spices (caraway)… But the finish will tell. The finish always tells… Finish: indeed the oak’s a little louder, with more tea tannins, but no scandal. Comments: wondering if that refill HHD hadn’t been rejuvenated (scratched and re-burnt), since it’s bright as a penny. In any case, very very good whisky.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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Aultmore-Glenlivet 20 yo 1997/2018 (51.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch)
This new baby from two bourbon HHDs. That would be hogsheads. Colour: pale gold. Nose: as often with William Cadenhead, we’re closer to the distillate. Not that I could tell my Aultmore from any other ‘regular’ Speysiders, but his has more earthy strawberries, bubblegum, ripe pears and apples, and just sweets. With water: barley, mud, hessian, old cloth. In short, Nature. Mouth (neat): ah very good, bright, fruity, not void of any depth, with a feeling of IPA beer and good green tea. In the background, orange drops. With water: really very good. Good maltiness, good citrusy fruits, good beer. Finish: same. Gets a little grassier, which is totally normal. Comments: couldn’t write a whole essay about this little baby, but I find it very good.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
Let’s try an older one and we’re done this time… |
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Aultmore-Glenlivet 28 yo 1989/2018 (43.4%, Cadenhead, Sherry Cask, sherry hogshead, 156 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: blood oranges, heather honey, sesame oil, fresh walnuts, and on top of all that, old untipped Benson & Hedges. It’s not often that you come across this much proper cigarette tobacco – we’re not talking Marlboro here. If you’re wondering ‘how would you remember that this vividly’, especially since I’ve stopped smoking a long time ago, well, just found and bought an original new 50-box from the 1960s on evilBay. It is exactly this, honestly. Mouth: this you could drink all day long. The strength is perfect, and even if there are traces of that spicy/oaky thing you’ll get when visiting bodegas that specialise in making bespoke sherry casks for the whisky industry, all the rest is just good. Walnuts first, then blood oranges, then softer ginger liqueurs. A drop of gin (who’s not making gin these days?) Finish: medium, a tad meaty, orange-y, and nicely green/spicy. Some coffee and some grape seed oil in the aftertaste, plus more fresh walnuts. Comments: not exactly orthodox, and it’s got a few unlikely details, but I could just quaff this, I couldn’t even explain you why.
SGP:351 - 87 points. |
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