
February 12, 2018

A bag of young Caol Ila

There’s much less Caol Ila around these days, while just a few years ago, one malt out of two was a CI. Okay, exaggerating a bit…

Port Askaig 8 yo (45.8%, Elixir Distillers, +/-2017)

Of course, there’s no proof that Port Askaig is Caol Ila. Could be Bunnahabhain, after all… And Ardnahoe one day… Colour: white wine. Nose: frankly, could be peated Bunny, really. It’s rather yeastier, and less coastal than its close neighbour… On the other hand, it’s also got this crab-y minerality (seashells) that’s more Caol Ila. So? There are also whiffs of new Wellies, scuba diving suits, and simply fresh kelp on the beach. What gives it away is this almondy development. Fresh almonds. Mouth: rather fat, oily, smoky, salty, almondy, ashy, lemony. That you cannot beat – at the same young age, that is. Smoked mackerel in rapeseed oil. Finish: medium to long, ashy, with this typical salty ashiness and all these fresh walnuts. More lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: nobody's going to go fill any complaints.
SGP:457 - 86 points.

Caol Ila 6 yo 2011/2017 ‘Four Grain Koval’ (48.8%, Valinch & Mallet, The Peaty DNA Collection, 2017)

As neighbours, we Frenchies know that our Italian friends are mad people, especially with anything they put into their mouths, including whisky. So, what could this be, Caol Ila finished in Koval casks? I have to say we’re Koval fans at WF towers, so let’s approach this odd combo with good faith and will… Colour: straw. Nose: I wouldn’t say I’m detecting any Kovalness, neither would I claim that there were four grains involved. All I can say is that this is a proper young Caol Ila that’s seen some fairly active American oak, which made it a little rounder and a tad more ‘popcorny’. All the rest consists in classic seashore-y smells plus clean smoke and brine. Mouth: more lemon, really? More popcorn indeed, more roasted sesame seeds, more roasted maize, but also some bright salty and lemony smoke, with this ultra-cleanliness that’s so enjoyable. Finish: long, blade-y, lemony, ashy, and very coastal. Comments: me not comprendo mucho (how’s my Italian?) but me very pleased with this young CI that’s already very well matured. A tad softer than the Port Askaig 8.
SGP:556 - 86 points.

Caol Ila 6 yo 2011/2017 ‘Bourbon Koval’ (48.8%, Valinch & Mallet, The Peaty DNA Collection, 2017)

I think our Italian friends are very smart, and no we won’t mention Marco Materazzi. Colour: straw. Nose: right, more buttered popcorn. It’s all quite subtle, as far as differences are concerned, but those are evident subtleties. So yet a rounder, more ‘coated’ Caol Ila. Mouth: oh no, the opposite, this is blade-ier and zestier on the palate, although I’m finding even more roasted nuts, some kind of smoked popcorn, and ‘ideas’ or pumpkin seed oil. Not too sure… All the rest is purely Caol Ila. Finish: long, really a little fatter than the Four Grains. Something toasted and roasted. Comments: I like my Caol Ilas very zesty, unless they’re old. That is why I liked the ‘Four Grains’ a notch better. But what are we doing here?...
SGP:556 - 85 points.

Whaaat? Rye Koval Caol Ila?...

Caol Ila 6 yo 2011/2017 ‘Rye Koval’ (48.8%, Valinch & Mallet, The Peaty DNA Collection, 2017)

Actually, this could be more challenging – hence even more interesting. Like a Ferrari with a Lambo engine (mi scusi)… Colour: straw. Nose: dunno, really. I do not get the rye yet, I’m just getting more coastality, and in that respect I believe we’re a little closer to the ‘Four Grains’ again. Did I tell you that I think that our Italian friends are a tad mad? Mouth: yes indeed, more blade-iness, more zesty flavours, more lime, more smoked seeds and grains, more smoky limoncello… Finish: long, on the same rather sharp, lemony and seawatery flavours. Comments: these are good, but this ain’t easy. A bit mad, really…
SGP:556 - 86 points.

Mr Valinch and Mr Mallet, please!...

Caol Ila 6 yo 2011/2017 ‘Oat Koval’ (48.8%, Valinch & Mallet, The Peaty DNA Collection, 2017)

That’s it, I quit, I give up! (as Adele would sing). Oat, really? This is getting madder than madness… Colour: pale gold. Nose: back to a rounder one, so rather more ‘bourbon’, but it’s well young Caol Ila. I may get a little eucalyptus, but frankly, I’m about to lose my nostrils by dint of trying to find nuances. To give you just one example, I’m beginning to find that this baby’s closer to a Talisker. A Talisker, imagine! Mouth: yeah it’s zestier yet, more lemony, more salty, more oystery, and its even got hints of mezcal joven. Which cannot be bad. As for the oats, I’ll refrain from commenting on them… Finish: long, with more wine gums and lemon drops, perhaps. I don’t know, I’m almost dead… I mean, my taste buds are almost dead. Comments: oat, I don’t know; some very good young CI, I’m sure. But crazy, crazy Italians… Does all this make any sense?...
SGP:556 - 87 points.

Wait, I go write my will and I’ll be back in a few seconds… Okay I’m back…

Caol Ila 15 yo 2002/2017 (52.8%, Valinch & Mallet, sherry hogshead, cask #17-002, 319 bottles)

Where-is-the-Koval? Colour: gold. Nose: it must have been American oak – as 95% of the sherry casks are anyway – since I’m finding a little bready vanilla and this feeling of fresh sawdust and broken branches. But all the rest is purely Caol Ila, with smoked oysters, fresh seaweed, light ashes, and just a few drops of olive brine. With water: smoked almonds. Mouth (neat): yeah good, with zesty fruits (grapefruits), ashes and smoke, hints of blueberries… With water: loses steam a bit, and that’s the sherry seasoning. Finish: medium, good, slightly buttery/raisiny/sour. Comments: in fact and all things considered, I liked their mad and madder young Koval CIs better and thought they were more precise and ‘accurate’.
SGP:555 - 85 points.

Good, this series was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done tasting-wise, even if some joy was had. Only listening to a few Brand Ambassadors’ senseless drivel has become even harder (I’m now avoiding those like the plague – not all of them mind you, because some, including beginners, are very good - )…

Check the index of all Caol Ila I've tasted so far