
October 2, 2017

Two Glenfiddich and proper bonus

… where it talks about ice wine…

Glenfiddich ‘Select Cask' (40%, OB, Cask Collection, travel retail, +/-2017)

Not sure the word ‘Select’ is conveying much cachet and prestige, just ask Laphroaig fans ;-). But anyway, this baby’s mainly to be found in airports. I’ve tried an earlier batch a few years ago and had thought it was kind of… well, you know, ‘travel retail’ (WF 77). Colour: light gold. Nose: extremely Glenfiddich, that is to say full of ripe apples, sweet beer, and vanilla, plus a touch of sweet wine, ice wine style. More about ice wine very soon… Mouth: really round, on the same notes of apples and ale. Compote, muesli, and a mocha spoon full of marmalade. Nicely malty. Finish: a little short, but clean, not too bitter/drying, with notes of cider. Even more cider in the aftertaste, a little candy sugar as well. Comments: bingo, up one point. A very easy, undemanding, decent dram. As I may have written before, typically ‘airport stuff’. SGP:451 - 78 points.

Glenfiddich 21 yo ‘Winter Storm’ (43%, OB, ice wine finish, 2017)

Not too sure ice wine is ‘traditional’ as far as maturation vessels for Scotch are concerned, but that’s not my business. There are great Canadian ice wines, and there are cheaper, simpler ones. We’re making ice wine in Alsace too, but I believe we can’t call that ‘ice wine’ (vin de glace) anymore since a few years, because of the results of some kind of international negotiations. But why am I telling you that? Let’s move on… Colour: gold. Nose: this is well whisky, do not expect a burst of dullish raisin-like notes. There are rather ripe quinces, dried apricots, perhaps a handful of Turkish delights, certainly some juicy figs, and perhaps a drop of papaya nectar. Very nice nose, perhaps not extraordinarily complex, but there, very nice nose. Mouth: even more ‘whisky’, and even frankly herbal. Eating hay and apple peel, then drinking three cups of unsweetened earl grey tea. Then rather Seville oranges, plus a few fresh mint leaves. You know, the ones we sometimes eat after having downed a proper mojito. Finish: medium, with a little more obvious wine. A wee feeling of lees, grape pips… Comments: I’d call this a success, they managed to keep the usually rather boisterous ice wine at a distance. So, let’s not call this ‘a winesky’. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Quick bonus, another good malt by William Grant

Kininvie 23 yo (42.6%, OB, 35cl, +/-2017)

A recent no-batch-number edition of Kininvie. I’ve only tried the first 17 and some Hazelwoods and found them good but not totally entrancing (WF 82-83). Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh and fruity, some kind of Glenfiddich with a little more knack and more active American oak, which translates into more creamy vanilla and apple pies. Nice fresh custardy profile, with ‘ideas’ of natural Arrans and Bruichladdichs. Mouth: really good, surprisingly good in fact. Jelly babies, more custard (or that famous pie they have in Portugal, pastéis de nata), a little citrusy hops (citra’s the name, I believe)… All good an nice. Finish: medium, creamy and round, on sweet barley, brioche, and more jelly babies. Or beans. Or crocodiles. A touch of lager in the aftertaste. Comments: really very good, possibly the best Kininvie so far. SGP:551 - 87 points.

September 2017

Favourite recent bottling:
Springbank 21 yo (49.6%, OB, for the UK, single cask, oloroso sherry, 702 bottles, 2016) - WF 93

Favourite older bottling:
Laphroaig 10 yo (43%, OB, for Japan, 75cl, 1970s?) - WF 94

Favourite bang for your buck bottling:
Highland Park 2007/2016 (58.8%, Gordon & MacPhail, Cask Strength, refill bourbon barrels, casks # 15603510-15603515) - WF 90

Favourite malternative:
Hampden 16 yo 2000/2017 (54.6%, Excellence Rhum, Jamaica) - WF 91