
November 27, 2017

Three new top Highland Park

Aren’t Highland Park firing out new whiskies almost every week these days? This time it’s called ‘Full Volume’, perhaps does it go to eleven? And then we’ll have one or two more…

Highland Park 1999/2017 ‘Full Volume’ (47.2%, OB, bourbon)

For once this baby does not contain any sherry, it’s 100% ex-bourbon. The box’s shaped a bit like a Marshall amp, while the obligatory story goes like ‘the Master Whisky Maker ensures that every individual wave of flavour finds its perfect place in the beautifully harmonised final spirit.’ And why not!? Colour: white wine. Nose: a typical, slightly porridgy, slightly smoky, and partly honeyed and orange-y start, with then a growing earthiness, quite some raw malted barley, some light pipe tobacco, and certainly not too much vanilla (phew!) Tends to go towards orange juice and tonics. Mouth: very good! Starts with mint and green tea, while the oranges and tangerines are soon to join in, with also a little camphor and angelica. Lemon zests, drops of lapsang souchong, lemon pie… All fine, and the strength is perfect. I’m glad it’s not actually on ‘full volume’, we’re not having a Spinal-Tap moment. Finish: medium, clean, rather subtle, with a touch of salt and more oranges. Comments: an official that tastes like some very good independent, and that’s because there’s no sherry. SGP:462 - 87 points.

Highland Park 28 yo 1989/2017 (45.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 192 bottles)

More bourbon, what could go wrong? Colour: straw. Nose: so plainly and utterly similar! Just a tad rounder, perhaps a tad more buttery, and probably with a little more vanilla. The rest is almost identical, aroma for aroma. And guess what, we shan’t complain… Mouth: this time it’s more blade-y, sharper, cleaner, and tenser than the official. More lemon, smoke, smoked tea, brine, light wax, passion fruits, Ricola… It’s all just splendidly zesty and bright. Finish: long, well-chiselled, zesty and coastal, coated with tangerine jelly. Comments: I never quite manage to resist this kind of profile. A perfect natural old HP, just out this month. I know what I’d do… SGP:552 - 90 points.

Highland Park 1995/2017 (53.2%, Gordon & MacPhail for The Whisky Exchange, refill hogshead, cask #1498, 251 bottles)

There was a very good HP GM 1995 for TWE last year. Colour: pale gold. Nose: rounder yet, rather with raisins and cakes this time, and this leafy thing that often comes from sherry casks, beyond anything raisiny. Some menthol too, menthol cigarettes, peach leaf tea, then more humus, earth, and the obligatory heather honey. With water: gets more barley-y, malty, and slightly yeasty (which I always enjoy). Mouth (neat): speaks bourbon rather then sherry this time. Some rather sublime notes of fir honey, granny smith, a hint of sandalwood, and always this humussy earthiness. With water: a tad rounder than the 1989, but this zestiness is perfect. Do they grow lemon trees on Orkney? Don’t laugh, I know where to find some in Scotland! Finish: medium, perfect, with honey, brine, and granny smith again. Works a treat. Comments: tops! SGP:452 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Highland Park I've tasted so far