Glendronach, seven by seven, part deux


August 29, 2017

Glendronach, seven by seven, part deux

More randomness, our noses in the wind… (and our eyes along the skyline…)

Glendronach 19 yo 1995/2015 (55.4%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Pedro Ximenez puncheon, cask #4028, 697 bottles)

Another full puncheon. A simple finishing or not? Well… Colour: amber. Nose: sweeter, rounder, and fruitier than Whiskybase’s (no big feat, I agree). An old bottle of Grand-Marnier, some black tea, some sour dried fruits (longans or litchis), and some kind of gently smoked raisins. With water: wet fabric, a little soot, and a funny mixture that would involve crushed strawberries and black earth. Mouth: all oriental pastries and bags and bags of raisins, plus just the right amount of cracked pepper. Perhaps a little ‘too much’, but water will tell… With water: does the job, really. Certainly not the worse PX-ed malt ever. Have I mentioned raisins? Finish: medium, sweet, and really very sultana-y. Right. Comments: very good, but you have to like raisins. I mean, to love raisins. No, to worship raisins. SGP:641 - 83 points.

I’ve heard they were selling more PX in whisky than as proper wines these days… What fake news?

Glendronach 24 yo 1990/2014 (52.9%, OB, 11th batch, Pedro Ximenez, cask #1162, 660 bottles)

It’s to be wondered if one couldn’t continually use the same few puncheons or butts and re-season them between each and every uses. Could one do that? Colour: amber/mahogany. Nose: old Cognac again. Raisins, wax-polished wood, old Sauternes, orange and apple compote, banana flambéed, wet earth. Nothing to complain about so far. With water: old waxes, that’s all rather fine. Mouth (neat): would someone mature marmalade and other jams and chutneys in wood? Fig wine, raisins, raisins, and raisins. Super-sweet wine… Right, PX. With water: a tad monolithic, with raisins and oranges, then coriander. Then raisins again, and touches of spicy oak. Finish: medium, with this typical wee sourness. Sour fruits, raisins, yada, yada… Comments: I’m about to write that all these PX-ed ‘dronachs can get a little tiring. SGP:561 - 83 points.

Quick, I’m begging you, some oloroso!

Glendronach 14 yo 1994/2009 (58.5%, OB, for Parker’s Whisky, oloroso puncheon, cask #2311, 596 bottles)

There, oloroso! Colour: gold. Nose: this is completely different, more metallic, dry, with some engine oil, smoked fish, hay, bitter caramel, olive oil, brine… With water: green oils, I would say. Barbour grease, grape pip oil… Mouth (neat): really extremely unusual, this is almost mezcal. Brine, sour olives, propolis… A lot of propolis, actually. Not an easy one, it tends to become bitter and even a tad soapy, but there are greater aspects. This green lemon, for example, or the green peppercorns. With water: no, water makes it very grassy. Takes your tongue and will never give it back to you. Finish: long, bitter, pungent. Unusual salty/lemony aftertaste. Comments: I’d have never said this was Glendronach. Extreme sensations, perhaps for ironmen (and women) only ? SGP:372 - 75 points.

So much for oloroso!... But let’s dig even deeper in the library…

Oh, perhaps the indies?...

Glendronach 10 yo 1988/1999 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, sherrywood, 222 bottles)

At least, we won’t know about whether it’s PX or oloroso. Phew… Colour: gold. Nose: we all love the nakedness of those older Cadenheads, even if some were closer to rocket fuel. In this case, there is a kerosene-y side indeed, surely some sunflower oil, and some kind of juice made out of pressed hay and orange skins. Plus a touch of bicycle inner tube. Mouth: good, its good. The sherry’s anecdotal here, we’re rather finding more hay and grass, many fruit peelings, and some kinds of green spices, hard to describe. Coriander leaves? Lovage? Finish: medium, really very grassy. Comments: right, this was not a total winner, and there was no sherry in sight, but at least it gave us a break. SGP:352 - 80 points.

Glendronach 11 yo 2003/2014 (55.3%, OB, for Taiwan, Pedro Ximenez puncheon, cask #4006, 690 bottles)

PX again! Colour: amber. Nose: ah, yes, nice. Not an avalanche of raisins this time, rather bags of very ripe apricots, perhaps quinces, and possibly baklavas. Not a stuffy nose at all this time, there’s even some kind of, say elegance. With water: croissants aux amandes! And orange blossom! Mouth (neat): sweet and, frankly, a little liqueury. Raisins and triple-sec (which is anything but sec, as you may well know), rose liqueur, tinned litchis… You have to stand this! It’s got a wee middle-oriental side, I have to say. Rosewater. With water: puts it straighter, but it’s still sweet. Orange liqueurs, and some cinnamony oakiness. Finish: medium, rounded. Cinnamon rolls covered with Cointreau. Comments: it’s good, it’s certainly very good, even if it feels a little, say ‘engineered’. SGP:641 - 83 points.

O-lo-ro-so please!

Glendronach 21 yo 1993/2014 (56.4%, OB, for Kenny Hsu Taiwan, oloroso sherry butt, cask #477, 589 bottles)

Some stuff from the Malt Maniacs Awards. And it’s o-lo-ro-so, for crying out loud. Colour: coffee. Nose: yeah, coffee, earth, cigars, walnuts, smoked meats, black raisins. Riiiight up our alley. With water: some -ols from the oak. Fir needles and stuff. Mouth (neat): perfect. Coffee, Chinese black mushrooms, pepper, cigars, one prune. This one’s much more armagnacqy than cognacqy. Yeah, whatever that means. With water: gets really complex. Walnut stain, old oloroso, sweet mustard, pipe tobacco, even a touch of salt. Even a little horseradish. Finish: long, dry, with loads of chocolate and a touch of salt. Perfect combination. Comments: we’re flying much higher this time. Love this kind of chocolate. SGP:462 - 90 points.

So we said seven at a time, while we’re only at six… Frankly, we couldn’t go back to PX today, so…

Glendronach 24 yo 1991/2016 (55.3%, OB, for China, oloroso sherry butt, cask #2860)

Colour: gold. Nose: this seems to be ex-refill, and not finished. We won’t complain, in case you’re wondering. Bags of vanilla pods (say from Madagascar), whiffs of artisanal marzipan (not Aldi stuff that won the Best-Marzipan-In-The-World Award, mind you) and a very complex assortment of aromas, with a little sea air, cut flowers, minty herbs, and only one fresh green walnut. Lovely, really. With water: starts to resemble that Cadenhead we had a few minutes ago. A tad austere. Mouth (neat): rather more difficult. Some green, almost plastic-like flavours, stems and leaves, grapefruit skin, and quite some green pepper. Glendronach minus wine, this. There are good sides and more difficult ones. With water: yes! Water was needed indeed, and here comes this old Highlands style, with waxes, minerals, and many herbs. Still not very sexy, but this baby’s having some talent for repartee. It just needed water. Finish: long, dry, wonderfully austere. Comments: this baby reminded me of the older official 12, but not the sherried version. What was the name again? Was it Traditional or was it Original? Ooh my head… SGP:561 - 87 points.

(Thank you Derek, Greg, Nicolas, Paul, Werner)

Check the index of all Glendronach I've tasted so far