Glenburgie by four


August 4, 2017

Glenburgie by four

At Pernod’s again. Glenburgie’s one of their faithful workhorses, let’s see if we find a few asperities in these (don’t you mean idiosyncrasies, S.?)

Glenburgie 17 yo 1998 (54.1%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #9914, 275 bottles)

Glenburgie 17 yo 1998/2016 (54.1%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #9914, 275 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: aww, were these tropical fruits there in the first place? Lovely passion fruits, mangos and pineapples, this is very surprising. It’s akin to some of the perfect undisclosed Irish that are to be found at the indies these days and to tell you the truth, had I tried this blind, I’d have said Redbreast. Impressed. With water: becomes beautifully chalky. Banana peel. Mouth (neat): totally Irish, totally Redbreasty. I’m checking the label, no, it says Glenburgie indeed. Blood oranges, mangos, more passion fruits, some light honey… What a sexy Glenburgie! With water: some menthol! Finish: medium, but supremely tropical. More maracuja. Comments: now it’s true that both Redbreast/Midleton and Glenburgie belong to Pernod-Ricard… But let me check the label again… No, it says Glenburgie. Or was it rather Glencraig? Nah, they removed the two Lomond stills in 1981… SGP:641 - 89 points.

Glenburgie 20 yo 1995/2016 (43%, Signatory Vintage, casks #6490+6491)

Always loved this self-restrained series - and even more so the Unchill-filtered Collection), but let’s be careful, the strength being much lower after the TSMOS. Colour: straw. Nose: oh, my, this is another Glenburgie that’s rather tropical, even if we’re not reaching the 1998’s heights. Between oranges and apples… What’s sure is that it’s very fruity, easy, fresh… Apple skins and mangos, barley water… I love this easy cleanliness. Mouth: no problems, it goes the distance after the 1998. Assorted sherbets with a little maple syrup and vanilla cream, plus some butterscotch. All more than fine. Finish: medium, on skins and peelings. Mangos, kiwis, melons… Comments: extremely easy and good, even if it’s perhaps not the most high-rolling Glenburgie ever. SGP:551 - 84 points.

Glenburgie 25 yo 1992/2017 (51.5%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular)

Another one that’s brand new. Picture from another bottle. Colour: straw. Nose: the tropical fruits have nearly gone this time, this baby’s much more orchardy and ‘western’, so to speak. Acacia honey, apple compote, beeswax, marzipan… With water: honeydew and more apple compote. Touches of sweet cider. Mouth (neat): very good, rather zestier and more mineral. Tense, on limestone, grapefruits, cider apples, rhubarb… I do like this style quite a lot. With water: gets a little more citrusy, which translates into more grapefruits, especially softer pink ones. Finish: medium and a little more barley-y. Comments: you just can’t have anything bad to say about these whiskies. One more that’s ‘average’ in the best sense of that word. SGP:551 - 83 points.

Perhaps a very old one as the last Glenburgie today?...

Glenburgie 36 yo 1980/2017 (47.4%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare, refill hogshead, 257 bottles)

It’s great to have a 36yo Glenburgie, but careful, 1980 used to be one of the ‘depressive’ (or depressed?) vintages almost everywhere in Scotland. But as always, there were exceptions… Colour: pale gold. Nose: doesn’t quite feel 36, and it’s even rather bright and fresh at very fist nosing, although going rather toward the mineral side, with some clay, plasticine, paraffin, linseed oil… In truth it’s a little shy and delicate. So far. Mouth: ah, this Irishness is back this time, although less loud and clear than in the TSOS and Signatory. Pink bananas and not-too-ripe pineapples, I’d say. What’s absolutely lovely, and almost stunning, is the way many tiny fruits and herbs are sneaking into the basket, starting with melons and white peaches, and going on with verbena, lemongrass, and dill. The freshness is totally impressive here, that’s the wonders of proper refill wood that lets the spirit talk and unfold over the years. Finish: medium, rather more on apples and green tea. Perhaps not the most stunning part… Comments: nothing to add. Forgot to mention a feeling of patchouli on the palate, typical of very old whiskies ex-refill wood. SGP:561 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Glenburgie I've tasted so far