
January 16, 2017

Glenburgie, a wee verticale

Glenburgie’s not a big name, but it used to be more sought after twenty or thirty years ago, especially the sherried versions, and notably in Italy. I guess once again, G&M have to be thanked for that.

Glenburgie 21 yo 1995/2016 (54.1%, Archives, hogshead, cask #6282, 278 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: a relatively grassy and branche-y start, then a rather long development on many things from a forest, such as mosses, herbs, leaves, mushrooms… There’s a little candy sugar and some vanilla in the background. Perhaps a little neutral so far, but pleasantly so. Mind you, it’s no vodka. With water: fern-scented soap. I’ve seen that Roger & Gallet are making some. Smells very nice! Also apple crumble. Mouth (neat): same moss plus apples, with a lot of candy sugar and tart sweets, lemon drops, and an obvious barleyness. Some mentholy liquorice too. With water: same very mentholy profile. Some aniseed too, Indian sweet spice mix (the one they give you with the bill at restaurants), caraway… Finish: quite long, on the same fresh and spicy notes. Comments: should go well with chicken tikka ;-). Very good. SGP:561 - 87 points.

Glenburgie 26 yo 1989/2016 (52.8%, Silver Seal, Cavalleria Rusticana, cask #16311)

After Verdi and Donizetti, here comes Mascagni. As they say at Opera Online, Cavalleria Rusticana, which could be translated as “rustic cavalry”, is characterised by the extreme simplicity of its plot. Let’s hope the whisky will be a little more complex. Colour: gold. Nose: we’re not far from the Archives version, but this one’s even grassier, more austere, and mossier when undiluted. Hints of sour cream, tarragon, and chives. With water: earthier. A pile of dead leaves – from last year. A lot of hay as well, farmyard after the rain… Mouth (neat): once again, very similar to the 1995. Very tart and grassy. Green melons? A bit rustic indeed. With water: gets sweeter, more bonbony. Lemon and orange drops, and less spices than in the 1995. Rather with a Tiramisu ;-). Finish: medium, fruity, citrusy. Melon syrup. Comments: perhaps not unforgettable but good good good. SGP:561 - 86 points.

Glenburgie 1984/2014 (54.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Exclusive for La Maison du Whisky, refill bourbon barrel, cask #8510)

G&M had a 1984 in their roaring Cask series twenty years ago. It was a young ueber-monster! Colour: amber. Nose: it’s funny that those mossy notes are there again, but this time, as the cask was much more active, it all went towards tobacco and teas, beyond the grassy notes. And perhaps Brussels sprouts? With water: hay and even manure. Mouth (neat): it’s funny, I’m feeling walnuts and raisins, as if it had been sherried. But other than that, it’s another punchy grassy malt. Bitter oranges, then many spices again. Ginger, caraway… With water: a Schweppesy side and indeed more ginger. Perhaps a drops of Buckfast wine. Perhaps. Finish: quite long, rather on candied grapefruits. Some ginger again. Comments: on par with the rustic cavalry in my book. SGP:561 - 86 points.

Check the index of all Glenburgie I've tasted so far