Fruit, I mean, Littlemill


July 24, 2017

Fruit. I mean, Littlemill

Littlemill’s a distillery that got its fairly high reputation only very recently, thanks to a handful of independent bottlers who could put their hands on some very lovely and very fruity casks. While it was active, and perhaps because of some rather weak official bottlings, the name had remained very, well, rather modest. Now, quite sadly, the remaining casks are becoming scarcer, but a few indies or brokers still seem to have a few of them. Let’s hope this isn’t the swan’s song…

Littlemill 20 yo 1992/2012 (48.2%, Scotland and Malts, Cask Collection, bourbon hogshead, cask #4044)

I haven’t tried many malts from this distinguished bottler. Well, not sure I’ve tried any. Colour: pale gold. Nose: let’s call it a moderate Littlemill’. Indeed it doesn’t quite burst with tropical fruits, although I wouldn’t say there aren’t any. Lemon rinds and touches of banana milk are well there, and there is a little mango sherbet as well. But there’s also a little porridge and muesli. Oh well, it’s fine. Mouth: good but a tad bizarre. Saponin, lactones, vanilla, a touch of lavender (sweets), wholegrain bread, aniseed… This combo is a wee tad wobbly, I’m not quite finding the typical ultra-clean fruitiness. A very peculiar vanillaness seems to have taken control, now don’t get me wrong, we’re still way above any kind of average. Finish: medium, a little milky, with some coconut water. White pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a rather bizarre Littlemill which has got something of both the recent fruity indies and from the earlier rather mundane officials. SGP:541 - 81 points.

Littlemill 26 yo 1988/2015 (54.6%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare, for The Whisky Barrel, refill sherry hogshead, 150 bottles)

One that I had ‘forgotten’. Shame on me and apologies. Colour: straw. Nose: this one too is a little ‘different’, this time wilder and kind of metallic. Although that metallic side would lead to mangos, which, in turn, would lead to tangerines and papayas. Which, indeed, is very ‘indie Littlemill’. Some hay and a farmy side as well. With water: I just can’t find the name of that small plant that gives out rather soapy notes when you rub it between your hand. It’s close to paraffin, and rather an asset in this context. Mouth (neat): pineapples, mangos, grapefruits, that’s more like it. Ultra-zesty and citrusy arrival, extremely ‘Littlemill’ this time, and just ravishing, especially since one can also find dill and verbena in the background. With water: a fruit salad with drops of Bénédictine or even absinth. Finish: long, citrusy, with rather more orange blossom honey this time. Comments: this baby changes rather a lot when you add water, drop after drop. Very good Littlemill. SGP:651 - 86 points.

Let’s try sherry…

Littlemill 26 yo 1988/2015 (52.5%, Hart Brothers, Finest Collection, first filled sherry butt)

Will the sherry have offset Littlemill’s fruitiness? Let’s see… Colour: amber. Nose: not! This is totally a fruit ganache. That would be soft chocolate intricately mingled with puréed fruits, in case you don’t know – which I doubt. This is actually very perfect, and I love these whiffs of incense, cedar wood, coal, and just plain earth (after a first summer rain). With water: superb earthiness, mushroom, the wildest Cuban cigars, pu-erh tea… all that. Unquestionably superb indeed (hold your horses, S.). Mouth (neat): oh yes, super good! Oranges everywhere, tobacco as well, herbal teas aplenty, toasted pastries, more oranges, gingerbread, chestnut honey… I was very afraid, I’m feeling totally reassured. With water: a stunning duet, oranges vs. tobacco. Is there some orange-flavoured pipe tobacco being made somewhere? Finish: quite long, perfectly balanced. Orange cake covered with honey and little herbs. Comments: impressive. This time, the sherry made wonders. SGP:561 - 90 points.

Littlemill 24 yo 1989/2014 (51.7%, Whisky-Doris, bourbon hogshead, cask #32, 357 bottles)

No bad whisky by Whisky-Doris that I can remember of… Colour: straw. Nose: it’s a pure and clean one this time, totally on a large fruit salad, with bananas, sliced pears, grapes, oranges, papayas, and mirabelles. What we call an ueber-fruity one. With water: more of that. Some alcohol-free cocktail made out of dozens of local fruits, somewhere in Bali. Or elsewhere. Mouth (neat): yes, it’s one the best of those batches. Very fruity Californian IPA (did they distil Lagunitas?) plus blood oranges, melons, papayas, tangerines, mangos, and longans. Immaculately Littlemill, those are the batches we prefer. Like everybody else ;-). With water: bananas, mangos and grapefruits mixed together. Finish: medium, clean, totally fruity. Comments: totally the counterbalance to the Hart Bros. and yet, scores will be the same. High! SGP:751 - 90 points.

Good, four’s a deal, but we may have more Littlemill very soon. Perhaps tomorrow…

(Gracias, Tomislav)

Check the index of all Littlemill I've tasted so far