Four young cult whiskies from Sp…


September 22, 2017

Four young cult whiskies from Sp…

You may have noticed that there is a bunch of die-hard Speyburn aficionados that are pacing up and down Facebook and other social platforms, singing the distillery’s praises as if there were no tomorrow. Main culprits, a certain Jon B., as well as brothers Simon and Phil T., Angus MacR., and possibly Jonny McM. Take special care if you ever cross their paths… This little session is for them.

Speyburn 10 yo (40%, OB, +/- 2017)

Let’s not forget that this expression of Speyburn was a gold medal winner at the 2006 San Francisco World Spirits Competition! Now, I never had it very high (WF 76 last time, in 2014). Colour: straw. Nose: can you nose sugar? Or rather lemon-flavoured icing sugar? There’s also a discreet rose-y side, as well as a little lamp oil, sunflower oil, and perhaps crushed barley. Golden Grahams. The whole’s light yet pleasant. Mouth: sweet, a little sugary again, with touches of new oak and drops of triple-sec. Then rather grass, kiwi peel, and the smallest bit of butterscotch. Finish: short, sweet and cerealy. Nice notes of lemon liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: I believe the low strength really is a handicap here. Other than that, it’s really fine, easy malt whisky. SGP:441 - 78 points.

Speyburn 9 yo 2007/2016 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, cask #11071)

Colour: white wine. Nose: how bizarre! Camembert and sour cream at first, then vanilla, butterscotch, and barley water. Now the first part goes away for good, and leaves more room for nice notes of ripe pears and unripe cherries. Malty porridge, biscuits… Mouth: we’re really very close to the official 10, just with more oomph, and a larger acetic side. Peppered yoghurt and lemon juice, then juicy pears and those not-quite-ripe cherries. Green apples. Finish: medium, slightly limping and undecided. Sour or not? Nicer aftertaste, on young calvados. Like. Comments: a funny one for sure, what it’s not is boring. Thank you! SGP:351 - 76 points.

Speyburn 9 yo 2004/2014 (46%, Hepburn’s Choice, 753 bottles)

Won’t this one be very similar? Let us see… Huge outturn from a single cask, probably a butt. A butt that wasn’t leaking and that was very tight, eh. Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s always something happening at Speyburn’s. This time we’re finding brake fluid and castor oil, then rather crushed almonds and golden syrup. Marzipan. Much cleaner than the DL, but also less fruity. Let’s go one… Mouth: pretty good, gingery and pearish at first, then slightly fizzy, with some ginger tonic and a drop of Campari. Some kind of readymade Spritz, all you have to add is a dollop of Krug. Excuse me? Sure, the Grande Cuvée will do, no need to use Le Mesnil or Ambonnay. Finish: medium, calmer and rounder. Really good now, with a lemony maltiness that works well. Pepper and more lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: approaching stardom. Quite. SGP:451 - 79 points.

Speyburn 2006/2016 (59.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Cask Strength, refill sherry butt, cask #173)

We’ve already found many glories within this series. Colour: gold. Nose: starts like sharp rum, gets then rather tarry (new tarmac), and unfolds on bitter oranges and carbon paper. Whiffs of bone-dry fino sherry, with a little sour wood. With water: crushed almonds, more carbon paper (but who remembers carbon paper?) and a little soot. Mouth (neat): very good! Sure it’s hot, but these mentholed fruits and berries (pomegranate, cranberries) are rather lovely. Bitter oak, liquorice sticks, peppered apples. Something is happening in there, and that’s an understatement. With water: sponge cake with drizzles of limoncello. Indeed, it got rather friendlier. Finish: long, rather exclusively on limoncello, with a rather perfect barley-y signature. Comments: I knew this baby would be my favourite today. In a way, these kinds of casks remind me of the early Manager’s Drams. You know, the very punchy ones… SGP:561 - 86 points.

Check the index of all Speyburn I've tasted so far